james galanos
Superb Late 1970s James Galanos Multi Layer Black Silk Chiffon Dress w Removeble Ruffled Collar
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James Galanos launched Galanos Originals in 1951. He was only 27 years old. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. His ready-to-wear was made to couture standards and on par with the French couturiers of the time. Grace Kelly was a huge fan and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world. He is one of my personal favourites and this dress is a stunning example of his work. It is one of those dresses that really needs to be on an actual body to come to life but once it is on a body it is even better than what you see here. These black chiffon dresses that are all bias cut are almost impossible to photo properly on a dress form and only come to life once on.
This dress is spectacular and it is in its original uncut length. The dress is made out of four full layers of silk chiffon through the skirt that are perfectly stacked on top of each. The sleeves are made of two layers of the same silk chiffon and then the bodice is backed in a black silk to make it opaque. This dress is also interesting, because the way that the skirt is set into the back uses the same technique as this 1957 dress I that I have had in the shop before and whose version resides in the Met's collection. You can click through the link in the previous sentence to see that for reference and it gives you a bit of an idea of how this dress will look on the body but backwards. In the Vogue's description at the time the skirt was described as being; 'narrow in outline, but with beautiful easy folds from the waist, falling in self contained spirals' which is a lovely way to describe the way that it is set into the dress. I love that he referenced his own work in this way. The fabric is a beautiful light weight black silk chiffon that floats over the body. The skirt is cut so that it gathers up and into the middle of the dress at the back. This gives it that lovely draping down the back and it extends out a little longer at the hem. A high slit is also hidden in the draping so when you walk you get a flash of your legs. At the front the skirt has a very minimal feel that I love. The bodice above that is cut to skim and blouse over the body to the waist and the waist is cut with a more generous feel. You could add a belt if you wanted to cinch that in more and give it more shape. Adding a belt would also bring the waist line up a bit and give you even more of a blousing feel unless you put the belt a little lower at the top of the hip. The neck is high and then at the back it buttons down to close across the top of the back shoulders. I think that you could actually wear the dress either way and just have the hem fall a little longer at the front if you wished because it is that well-made. It has a more oversized feel through the top that is intentional and then the skirt is more narrow. The sleeves are spectacular and each one is cut wide and extremely full above the ruffled wrist. They are set deep into the bodice with a little bit of pleating around the top. so you get a touch of a capped feeling sleeve. The dress came with its original matching neck ruffle that hooks into place around the neck. I love how this in essence gives you two different dresses. If you choose not to wear the ruffle, it feels minimalist and stark from the front and when you add the ruffle it adds that extra bit of glamour and movement around the neck. It is a fabulous addition to the dress and it really showcases just what a genius he was. Excellent condition
Both pieces are fully lined in a black silk chiffon as described above. It closes with a low painted metal zipper at the waist and then has a row of buttons above that. Hand finishes. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.
Sleeves: 27"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: 19-21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 20" from neck to waist
Total length: 69" from neck to front hem, 73" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4611
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
valentino
Fabulous 1970s Valentino Black Silk Cropped Pants & Black Silk Top Set w Gold Detailed Ruffled Collar
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This is a fabulous fall 1970 cropped pant and top set from the Valentino boutique label. Valentino launched his ready-to-wear label in 1962, two years after opening his first salon in Rome. He eventually expanded and added other boutiques locations after that. The New York boutique launched in the fall of 1970 and it caused a sensation. Traffic was backed up 3 blocks with everyone who was anyone trying to get in on opening night. He wanted everyone to have the Valentino experience and he often brought in the designs that he created for his main couture label into the boutique work. In these early days especially they were remarkably close in quality and the line between the two labels was often blurred. On this set you can see that in the hand finishing that is has.
The set is gorgeous and in the hands of the right person will be a fantastic statement piece. The silk of the pants is slightly heavier than the silk of the top and it has a slight sheen finish to it. They button and zipper to close at the waist and there are loops if you want to add a belt. Slanted pockets sit on each hip. They skim over the hips and are a bit fuller through the leg. They are cropped and what I think is especially interesting about them is that they have an inner piece built into each leg that is a slightly slimmer and made out of a black velvet. Each is adorned with three buttons down the side to give the impression that you are wearing a pant over a pant. The top is made out of an opaque black silk that is very fine and light. It is cut very generously so that it is very easy to wear. It buttons down the front and hooks at the waist. The waist is elastic and we've added a ribbon to define it a little bit more. The sleeves come out from the waist and the shoulder so they are very wide and full right to the cuff where they button in. This lets the sleeves billow out fantastically above the cuffs. Inside there are rounded shoulder pads. These are very interesting because they have an attached loop to them that you actually loop your arm through so that the top stays in place despite it's full and generous cut. The collar goes all the way around the neck and has six layers of black netting that is trimmed with a black lace. Each layer has little metallic gold flowers embroidered onto the netting. This add the perfect little dash of glitz to the outfit. You can wear the ruffles more flat and down or you can really fluff them out so that they wrap around your neck and frame your face. I love the versatility of having the two pieces because you can wear it together as a set or mix and match it with existing pieces in your wardrobe to get many outfits out of it. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
The pants are fully lined in a black silk and zipper to close at the front. The top is unlined and closes with buttons and hook and eye. Elastic though the waist of the top. The ribbon around the waist of the top is not original but will be included. Each cuff buttons to close with two buttons and the inner waist stay on the top hooks to close. Pockets on the hip of the pants. Hand finishes throughout. The top is tagged a vintage Valentino size 8 and the pants a 6. Padding in each shoulder. I see a tiny mark on the inside of the padding on one shoulder and some light press marks / very light scuffing around the seams of the pants and on the fabric of the legs of the pants. Comes with its original necktie and the waist ribbon we added.
Top
Sleeves: no defined seam
Shoulders: approx 26"
Bust: no true side seams
Waist: The inner waist stay is 25" end to end and the outer top stretched form 27-38" end to end
Length: 28" from neck to hem
Pants
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 35" from waist to hem with 4" turned under the hem
Inseam: 22"
Gusset: 15.5" from back of waist to inner seam
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4610
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james galanos
Gorgeous 1960s James Galanos Meticulously Pleated Black Silk Chiffon Dress w Elaborate Belt
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This is a spectacular example of Galanos and the evening dresses that he did so very well. James Galanos launched Galanos Originals in 1951. He was only 27 years old. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. When you covert to modern dollars the top end figure would be about $31,000 today. His ready-to-wear was made to couture standards and on par with the French couturiers of the time. Grace Kelly was a huge fan and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world. He is one of my personal favourites and this dress is fantastic.
The belt alone on this dress is what vintage dreams are made of. It is tacked all the way around the waist and it is this thick braided black cord that has rose of rhinestones attached to it. The belt has then been tied into big knots that are perfectly spaced from each other and then it ends in this elaborate silk fabric tassel that is unlike any tassel I have seen. It snaps into place at the front or you could wrap and tie it if you wished. It has such impact and it elevates the entire dress even more. The label on this dress is the one that dates from 1963-1977 and this is my personal favourite time period of his work. The fabric is a beautiful light weight black silk chiffon for the bodice and sleeves and then the skirt is a black silk jersey. The cut of the dress is incredible. The neckline is a slight scoop and then the dress skims over you to the waist. The waist is slightly dropped and seamed but a little more on the generous side and then the belt adds a touch of shape. The bodice is incredible. The entire thing has been done in tiny little knife pleats that are meticulously spaced and lined up. These run vertically down the front and the back. The very edge of the neckline has been piped with a tiny bit of silk for a finished look. It is just incredible to see and it is all done to the level of work that you are only going to find in vintage. The work is all done by hand. The sleeves are equally as fabulous. Each is made out of a single layer of the silk chiffon and are cut to be very full so that they balloon out over their cuffs. The sleeves are also pleated but in a wider pleat than the ones on the bodice. This gives some contrast to the pleating on the bodice and also allows the sleeves to fully open up and have the billowing fullness that you see. Even the cuffs are pleated and the pleating on each cuff perfectly matches the size of the pleats on the bodice. The skirt falls from the waist and is gathered in tiny delicate pleats all the way around the waist. This allows the skirt to flare and open out as it nears the floor. There is an incredible amount of fabric in it. The workmanship in this dress is fabulous It really showcases just what a genius he was. Excellent condition with a note below
Fully lined in a black silk through the bodice and closes with a back zipper. Each cuff button to close with little embroidered dome buttons. I see a repair near the hem of the skirt and I feel like the zipper sticks slightly. Please see the photo after the label shot. Hand finishes throughout and beautifully made
Sleeves: 22.5"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 17.5" from neck to waist
Total length: 56" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4609
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
donald brooks
Sophisticated 1960s Donald Brooks Fine Black Wool Crepe Dress w Elaborate Rhinestone Detailing
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Donald Brooks launched his label in late 1963 with a collection for the Spring 1964 season after an already successful start as a costumier for Hollywood. He quickly became one of the most sought after of the American designers and his clients included Jaqueline Kennedy, Claudette Colbert and Faye Dunaway. The New York Times said that he was one of 'the three B's of fashion' alongside Bill Blass and Geoffrey Beene. He helped to launch the American Council of Fashion Designers and won three Cody Awards over the course of his career. He launched a secondary boutique line in 1971 all while also designing costumes for Movie and Television. He eventually closed his label to concentrate on costume work and only designed for the occasional private client. This is a gorgeous example of his work from his main made to order label.
I love this dress. The dress is made from a black wool crepe that is cut loose and easy through the body. It has an inner built in bodice that holds it perfectly in place and then the crepe just falls over that. This gives you that fantastic floating sensation all around you with your slightest move. The dress is suspended from straps that curve up and over the shoulder. Everything about the dress is done as simply as possible and this is all deliberate so that the bodice can shine. The bodice has a heavy embellishment of little steel beads mixed with a variety of prong set crystal rhinestones in different shapes and sizes. These catch the light beautifully. The rhinestones form flowers within the designs and I love how he used bigger stones so it has this fantastic 3D effect. The embellishments go across the entire back to create a wide panel and then wrap to the front where they curve up to leave a space between them at the centre. The top of the bust is cut straight across all the way around and then under that the dress cascades to the floor. It widens out as it nears the hem and has an easy-to-wear feel to it. It is very flattering on the body and it creates a fantastically dramatic effect as the dress floats around you. It is amazing and it has pockets on each hip. This is a truly stunning dress. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a black silk and closes with a back zipper. There is an inner boned structure that hooks to close with a series of lingerie hooks up the back. Pockets along the seam of each hip. Tagged a vintage 8. I see a couple of tiny areas of thinning near the hem but am being pretty picky. Please see the photo after the label shot. You could add to the inner waist to get more room if needed
Bust: 15-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 12-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 23 " flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 57" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4591
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
thea porter
Exquisite 1960s Thea Porter Couture Rare Printed Silk Chiffon Dress w Gold Metal Thread & Sequin Detailing
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I have had this tucked away in my archives for quite some time and it is spectacular. This is it gorgeous little dress that is easy to wear and an extremely beautiful example of her work. It has a touch of a caftan feel to it and that combined with those spectacular sleeves makes it very special piece. Of all of Thea's pieces, her caftans and the dresses that had that caftan like feel, have come to represent Thea's work like no other pieces of her clothing that she designed. Everyone who was anyone wore her work back in the day, including the great Elizabeth Taylor who was a huge fan and collector. This dress is just spectacular and a very special piece.
The dress is very beautiful and is made from a printed silk chiffon. The fabric has a swirling paisley feeling design with a black backdrop and then the print is done in a greens mixed with pops of blue. The print runs over the entire dress. The bodice has an empire cut and the front scoops low and wide. Detailing the edge of the neck and down the front is an added antique gold metal cord embellishment. This goes all the way around the neckline to the back and then runs part way down the front where it closes with hand made frog knots made of the same cording. The cording also details the seam where the sleeves are set in and more of it sit above the scalloping detail of the skirt. Thea was known to hunt antique stores and markets during her extensive travels and use what she found in her designs and this is certainly a found antique textile. The dress buttons down the front to just past the waist. There is a seam set under the bust and then the dress falls from there in a loose and easy feel. The sleeves are magnificent. They are slim through the upper arm and then from just above the elbow to the cuff they balloon out to be spectacularly full. They are not lined for the lower balloon part of each sleeve and I love the touch of transparency this creates. The rest of the dress is lined in a black silk and the chiffon over it is semi-transparent like the sleeves. This see-through quality gives the fabric depth and a floating feel over the inner lining. The final detail is that little scalloped panel that runs around the skirt above the bottom hem. It adds just a tiny touch of movement, and added detail that is lovely. This is very special and rare piece of Thea's work and it is also very beautiful. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a hand set black silk lining. It closes down the front with gold antique cord loops and knots. Each cuff hooks to close. Tagged a vintage UK 12. Finished by hand throughout. There is some patina to the cording that is a natural occurrence of its age. A tiny bit of grubbiness to the seam under each arm on the inner lining. It is spectacular
Sleeves: 26" and 11" around the upper arm
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under the bust: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10.5" from the top of the shoulder to the seam under the bust
Total length: 56" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4570
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
givenchy
Fall 1978 Givenchy Haute Couture Original Runway Sample Black Silk & Velvet Dress w Beaded Sleeves
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The House of Givenchy was founded in 1952 by Hubert de Givenchy. He has always been strongly associated with the work that he did dressing Audrey Hepburn but his range was incredible as a designer behind that relationship with her. Some of my personal favourite vintage pieces over the years have been from his work. His Haute Couture pieces are always amazing to find and this wonderful dress is an extraordinary example of his couture work during this time period. It is completely made by hand to Haute Couture standards and the workmanship and craft out into this dress is extraordinary. This is also the actual runway sample and you can see its near twin in the reference photos that we have added here that would have been in the same grouping as this one, which makes its place in fashion history even more special. As good as the dress is on the dress form you can see how it transforms even further on an actual body. This is true Couture and it is fabulous. I love it.
What a beautiful piece of couture. The bodice of the dress is made from a black silk with a slight sheen to the finish and the fabric has a touch of weight that allows it to hold the shape that you see. For the skirt he used a black velvet with a thick pile finish and this fabric choice also really allows it to hold those beautiful lines that you see in the photos. Its beautiful shape is almost sculptural and it is a testament to the level of workmanship that you only see in true couture pieces. The bodice buttons to close down the front and the buttons run all the way up to the neckline. Each button is a thick circle of black with a glass rhinestone set inside. The neckline has no collar and it is just a simple, elegant swoop around your neck. The bodice has vertical darts so that it follows and accentuates the curves of the body. It narrows in slightly at the waist and then curves out and over to the top of the hip below the natural waist. A ribbon is tacked at the back and then ties on the front to give the dress the same look as how it was shown on the runway. The sleeves are amazing. Each is cut on a curve to follow the shape of the arm in the traditional manner of making a sleeve. They are set into the shoulders with a beautiful series of soft pleats so that you get a bit of volume at the shoulder. There is stiffened tulle just inside the edge of the shoulder for shape and this lets them puff out slightly around the upper arm and then it narrows down to their ends.The skirt has some built-in fullness around the inside of the upper hip that allows it to lift slightly off and away from the body. There are also weights that are set all around the inner hip so that it sits perfectly on the body once on. The skirt curves down and inwards from there. The skirt at the front is cut on a curve that swoops up at the centre so that you see a flash of leg as you walk or sit. The back is fuller and it also falls a touch longer so you get a beautiful curving line from the side. The sleeves are works of art. Each is detailed with hand applied prong set glass rhinestones in red green and clear to form a stunning red flower with trailing leaves that run over and down the outer edge of each sleeve. Little hand cut velvet bits are hand applied in and around the flowers to give them depth. The rhinestones catch the light beautifully. It is incredible. These have all been added one by one by hand and the entire dress is completely hand made to couture standards. I have taken some detail shots of the interior seams for you to see the fine Haute Couture workmanship inside. It is an incredible piece and beautifully made. Excellent condition with a small note below
The bodice is unlined and the skirt is fully lined in a black silk organza. Built in panniers around the hip area with weights that I have photoed. It closes down the front with the buttons as shown and the skirt snaps into place under that. A little hidden set snap is set on each cuff. Hand finished throughout. The proper runway sample tag is present. One rhinestone is broken but it is the button that lies under the ribbon when it is tied. Please see the photo after the sample tag. Some of the seams show minor stress. Made to Haute Couture standards with a tremendous amount of detail put into its construction.
Sleeves: 25" and 14" aroid the upper arm. 6.5" around the wrist
Slightly inset shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13" flat across from side seam to side seam and meant be cinched with the ribbon
Seam across top of hips: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural hips: open
Bodice: 20" from the neck to the seam at top of hips
Total length: 41" from neck to shortest part of the front hem, 58.5" to the back hem with 2" turned under the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Modern Sizing Equivalent:
Item# DD4562
Reference Photos: Givenchy Fall 1978 Haute Couture Advance.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
john anthony
Fall 1980 John Anthony Couture Black Hand Sequin & Beaded Jacket w Incredible Rhinestone Closures
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John Anthony's business was all done on a made-to-order basis. That means that each piece is the only one that exists, or in the very occasional circumstance that there are similar pieces, only a very limited amount of pieces were made. And to make things even a little more special.... the pieces I have in the shop come directly from John's archive. He is one of the great American couturiers and he was known for his sharp tailoring and striking evening wear. He launched his atelier in 1971 and he quickly rose to fame, winning a Coty award in 1972 and then again in 1976. This jacket is from his Fall 1980 collection and is the original sample from his archives.
This jacket is stunning to see in real life. It has a beautiful sleek cut and it is meant to be more fitted through the body. I love that it completely closes as this allows you to wear it on its own or layer it over other pieces. The shoulders have light padding for shape and the sleeves fall from there in a sleek line. The waist is brought in just a touch as it glides over the body. It is meticulously tailored and John told me that creating jackets were one of his favourites things to do. They are infinitely challenging to have them sit perfectly on the body and his are tailored to a master level. It has no collar and the neckline is a sleek V. It closes down the front with a series of hidden silk covered snaps and then there are three glass rhinestone buckles that close over the front. They are spectacular. The entire jacket is covered in glossy black sequins. These have all been set by hand and completely cover the silk that the jacket is made from. Each sequin is laid out so that it slightly overlaps its neighbour. To think of the man hours out into this jacket is incredible. The final finishing touch on this one are the bold motifs beaded onto the sequins on each side at the front. These have a 3D effect and sit up and off of the sequins below. The personal attention to each piece is clearly seen in the workmanship of his designs. His work is very expensive and beaded jackets like this retailed for up to $6,500 in the 80s and 90s which would be around $25k in modern dollars to recreate at this level. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
Filly lined in a black silk and closes at the front with hidden set silk covered snaps. The rhinestone clasps close over that. Padding in each shoulder. Made by hand, one of a kind and pristine.
Sleeves: 22" long and 13" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 16.5"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4551
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Spectacular Spring 1992 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Look 47 Runway Dot & Embroidered Floral Pouf Dress
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This is a very rare dress that is the twin of the dress that walked the Yves Saint Laurent Spring 1992 Haute Couture runway. It is extremely well documented and I have included photos of the original sketch and swatches that I have here from the Saint Laurent couture archive book set that I own in addition to runway reference photos of it that we found. You can see just how fantastic it is on the body. This was Look 47 and part of the short evening segment of the collection.
This collection marked Yves' 30 year anniversary and it was presented on January 29 to coincide exactly with his first collection presented January 29, 1962. The book, Yves Saint Laurent Catwalk, notes that at the time people were expecting a retrospective but Yves actually surprised everyone by producing a full 91 piece collection. There was a definitive tribute aspect to his first 1962 collection. Flowers were a main motif and ran throughout the collection as did polka dots and stripes. Puff sleeve tops with balloons skirts were integral and dresses like this one were a key look. It is an exceptional to have such beautiful documentation on this stunning dress. Every piece of Saint Laurent Couture is a treasure but when it's as highly documented in from such an important collection as this, it is just that much more special.
The dress is exquisite. It is made from a combination of a white silk that has been hand embroidered with roses and leaves across the entire bodice. This is then combined with a silk faille skirt that has dots that appear to be hand painted onto the fabric. A silk organza bow is wrapped around the waist and I love the deeper mustard yellow tone of it. It perfectly offsets the black and white palette. The neckline is scooped across the front and the bodice is meant to skim over the body to the waist. The sleeves are fantastic and each insets into the bodice in a series of pleats across the top of the shoulders. This is what gives them the volume that you see. The edges of the neckline are finished with a black cord and this runs around the cuffs as well. Each cuff is brought into the arm with a button and loop and this bringing in at the arm also helps to exaggerate the puff above. The entire silk of the top is embroidered in this magical, dreamy, black rose embroidery that pops against the white of the silk. The embroidery is done onto the silk directly in some places and then in other places the leaves or roses have been cut out and hand stitched in place. The waist is seamed but it is more generously cut and the organza ribbon that circles it adds the perfect pop of color. Under that the skirt is fantastically full and the fulness is created by the pleats that are set into the waist and the way it has been wrapped in and under at the hem to attach to the skirt underneath. Between the those two layers of the skirt you can feel that there is tulle and some structure inside that helps hold that exaggerated shape. It is a fantastic magical piece of Haute Couture and an important piece from an important collection. Excellent condition with a note below.
The bodice is lined in an ivory silk and the sleeves are unlined. The belt at the waist is attached and wrapped and hooked into place. The skirt is lined in the same fabric as the outer skirt and there is stiffening between the layers as described above. It closes at the back with a button at the top of the neck and then there is a hidden set side zipper too close. The dress is unlabeled, but I have seen the original label that came with the dress. The dress had been let out at some point and my client had it brought back in and unfortunately when she had it altered back to its original size, the tailor lost the tag. I see some very minor evidence of that alteration on the bodice. There are some areas of stress near the embroidery and some minor reinforcements underneath the arms. I see slight dustiness on the fabric at the top the shoulders and there is a tiny chip on the button on one sleeve. Perhaps a slight grubbiness along the inner edge of the lining under the arm. The outside presents as clean and fresh and once on it looks immaculate.
Slightly inset shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Skirt: 18" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4509
Reference Photos: (1-3) Spring 1992 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture. / (4-6) From the book "Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: L'oeuvre Integral 1962-2002".
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
valentino
Stupendous Spring 2008 Valentino Runway One Shoulder Black Dress w Bow Details & Slit
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This gorgeous dress has the significance of being from Mr. Valentino's final show before he retired. Its twin in a pale green walked the runway for Look 75 and we have added some runway reference shots and video so that you can see just how fabulously the dress moves when on the body. Vogue said this last collection was; 'Crisply puncturing the potential for a predictable end-of-era wallow in sentiment, Valentino played it as an upbeat, fast-paced whirl of breezy, pretty, drop-dead gorgeousness that blew any lingering sense of ladylike stuffiness to the winds. If there's a problem, it's only being spoiled for choice. What to pick from the head-spinning plethora of dresses on offer?' ... and indeed the collection was full of stunning choices. This particular dress was one of my favourites of the show and I personally love it in black even more then the green it was presented on the runway. It is a beautiful example of his work.
I love the contrast between the black silk insets with its touch of a sheen finish against the matte back of the body on this dress. The dress falls from one shoulder and then drapes down and over the body to the floor. It is very beautiful. All of the shape created n the dress is by that clever seaming and insets that are part of the design. The silk parts are all bias cut and allows the dress to skim and drape over you so that is shows every curve but is not overly fitted. The seaming is intricate and beautifully done, showing what a master Mr Valentino really is. The dress is suspended from that one single shoulder panel that curves over your shoulder and runs across the bust to the other side. There is a large bow set at the front of that shoulder and a second bow below the hip on that same side. The bodice curves down into the side panel on the bow side and then under the bodice there is that gorgeous draped curved panel that cuts across the body. That silk insert extends down into the skirt. The waist is shaped by the insert and seaming. The dress glides over the body from there and then flares out as it reaches the hem. The skirt is quite wide by the time it reaches the hem but because it is a single layer of the silk it stays soft and flowing. It sweeps around you as you walk and even more movement is created with the high slit that runs up one side where it is topped by that bow. It is an incredible feat of patterning. The dress is even better in person and on the body as you can see in the video. It is an incredible example of his work and looks to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
The bodice is lined in the same black fabric and then the rest of the dress is unlined. It closes at the side with a series of silk covered buttons. In its original uncut length and looks too have been worn very little if at all. Tagged a vintage Valentino 8
Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 62" from top of shoulder to front hem
Slit: 25" from hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4493
Reference Photos/Video: Spring 2008 Valentino, Look 75. Model Laura Blokhina.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
loris azzaro
Incredible 1976-1978 Loris Azzaro Strapless Glossy Black Sequin Dress wLayered Net Tulle Skirt
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Loris Azzaro launched his label in 1967 and quickly defined his trademark looks by using ornate fabrics and avant garde ways of defining the body. Some of the most beautiful women in the world wore his clothing including Marisa Berenson, Raquel Welch, Jane Birkin, Sophia Loren, Brigitte Bardot and Tina Turner. It was a label that defined sexiness and had a certain French flare that women world-wide loved. By the seventies and eighties he was experimenting with volume and proportions and new fabrics that at the time were all cutting edge. This is a stunning example of his work from the mid- to later part of the 1970s and is fantastically beautiful. No matter how good it looks on my dress form, in person and on the body it transforms into even more of a bombshell. It is spectacular. To give you an idea of the way the paper bodice fits I have included a photo of French singer Dalida and one if Raquel Welch both wear dresses similar to the bodice of this one. I think this one with its fantastical net tulle skirt is even more special
This is a killer dress. It is one that will come to life even more once it is on an actual body because this is a dress that in person it is even better. The movement it has cannot truly be captured until it is on a body and moving. The first thing you see is that the entire body of the dress is covered in overlapping glossy black sequins that catch the light from every angle. This detailing alone takes your breath away when you see the dress in person. The dress is strapless and the bodice is cut with a rounded sweetheart neckline and has shaped cups with one of hi signature inner tacked in strapless bras. It skims over the body from there gliding over the waist and hips. There is some shape at the waist but it is with a more easy feeling which keeps the dress feeling long and lean. Under that the skirt falls to the floor in an explosion of netted tulle that is set in ruffle layers that curve up and toward the centre front. The layers give the skirt so much volume and movement when you move and it is just incredible. When you move even the slightest, they move with you and it's gorgeous to see. It has a full underskirt in a black silk but the way the ruffle are set give the illusion of being more open at the front. I love how the dress curves around the hips and dips down slightly before turning into the tulle to give you maximum curves at the back as well. Above that the entire back is also left bare and open and it is as incredible from the back as it is from the front. The dress is wonderfully made. It is a stunning dress and you will definitely turn heads in it when you walk into the room. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a black silk and it closes with a zipper at the back. His signature copper strapless bra is tacked unsaid and you could remove or replace this is needed for a better fit. It is fuller through the waist and If you wanted a more hourglass feel you can alter the waist in. Elastic through the upper seam of the bodice. and the fabric has some give. Hand finished throughout.
Bust: 14-17" flat across from side seam to side seam with the current inner bra about a B to small C cup
Waist: 14-15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18-19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 56" from top of the shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item#DD4486
Reference Photos: (1) Raquel Welch with Loris Azzaro, 1978. / (2-3) Dalida in Azzaro, 1976. - First two photos from the book 'Azzaro: 50 Sparkling Years'.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
arnold scaasi
Striking 1980s Arnold Scaasi Couture Black Silk Strapless Dress w Pink Lined Half Bow & Shawl
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Arnold Scaasi was born Arnold Isaacs in Montreal and the name Scassi is simply his own surname in reverse. He studied in Montreal and in Paris, apprenticed at the house of Paquin and then worked with the legendary Charles James. In 1964 he opened own couture salon. He dressed Hollywood stars like Lauren Bacall, Diahann Carroll and Elizabeth Taylor. He dressed several first ladies including Mamie Eisenhower, Hillary Clinton and both the Bush first ladies. He even once bragged that he refused to give Jackie clothes for free. He was the man behind the scandalous 1969 Barbra Streisand sheer trouser outfit that she collected her Oscar in, and he was presented with the Council of Fashion Designers of America Lifetime Achievement Award in 1996. The dress is from his main label and these were extremely well made pieces. It is so dramatic and in being so also so very Scaasi. He himself once said 'I am not a minimalist designer! Clothes with some adornment are more interesting to look at and more fun to wear.'
You can easily see the influence of Arnold having worked for Charles James in this piece. The lines are dramatic and yet elegant. The silk is that incredibly rich feeling silk that drapes and sits beautifully. The dress is strapless and is gathered from there to the waist. The gathers are all held in place along the side and this brings in the cut so that it follows and highlights your curves. The skirt is set under that and it is done with an asymmetrical cut so that one side of the skirt is linger them the other. This was a signature cut for Scaasi and a detail you see in many of his pieces. The skirt is quite full and the shape and volume that you see is all created by the way the seams are done and the inner construction of the dress. The innermost layer closest to you goes to just past the hips and it is made out of a fine black silk. A layer of tulle sits between that and the outer skirt and this is how the shape is created. The outermost layers sits over all of that and even that top layer is self-lined in a black silk organza. The final perfect touch is that extraordinary half bow that is set along the one side of the bodice. This is lined in a brilliant pink for an unexpected pop of colour. I have placed it to one side but the dress is so well made that you could wear it almost anyway around and just change where the zipper sits and the back or sides. I think you might even be able to wear it with your arm slipped through and if you really wanted to create more drama you could add some wire inside to ensure it stays high and full no matter how you move as it may flop down when moving as out is now. This one also comes with its original high shawl that is black on one side and that same brilliant pink on the other. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a fine black tissue silk. The bodice is lightly boned and it closes with a side set zipper. The inner skirt construction is described above. Hand finished throughout.
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 10" from top of bodice to natural waist
Skirt: 24" from natural waist seam to shortest point of the hem and 52" to the longest part of the hem with 4" turned under
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4477
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
alexander mcqueen
Extraordinary Fall 2008 Alexander McQueen 'The Girl Who Lived in the Trees' Silk Chiffon Trained Dress
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McQueen's Fall 2008 collection was called 'The Girl Who Lived in a Tree' and it was inspired by a combination of his trip to India and a 600 year old elm in his garden. I have included two photos from the runway that year and you can see how the elements from these pieces were combined to create this dress. The V&A Museum says of this collection: 'McQueen’s Autumn/Winter 2008 collection centered on a fairy tale narrative devised by McQueen about a girl who descends from a tree to marry a prince and then become a queen. It was inspired by a 600-year-old elm tree in the garden of the designer’s Sussex home. At the center of the set stood a giant tree swathed in fabric, inspired by Bulgarian artist Christo, who is renowned for wrapping buildings with material.' This dress feels a bit like the embodiment of that centre piece they refer to above as you are wrapped and swathed in fabric once it is on. The way that the chiffon trails behind you is fantastic once on the body. This is an extraordinary example of his work.
This dress is beautiful and rarely does one see this level of workmanship in ready to wear. The fabric is a silk chiffon with a soft almost waffle finish texture to the silk. It is feather light and once the dress in on it is magical. The cut is classic McQueen with a low cut squared off neckline at the front. Underneath the bodice where a seam would normally be there is a barely visible line of hand placed stitches. This tiny little detail adds the perfect suggestion of shape and gives the bodice its empire cut. The silk has been lightly gathered over the bust with the inside structured and supported. The inner support has been done with couture level seam work and the way the fabric is placed and shaped rather than extensive boning. It is genius. The skirt falls to the floor from beneath the bodice and there are yards and yards of silk used to create the skirt and train. Just under the bust on one side the silk extends out into a panel that drapes down the full length of the dress and then loops back up and around to attach to the top of the opposite shoulder. The effect this creates is fantastic and adds extra dimension to the dress. The skirts scoops up to floor length at the front so that you can walk and then starts to extend out at the sides to become the train that wafts out behind you at the back. The back skirts drop out from the upper seam of the back which creates a fantastic caped feel. As you walk this billows out behind you and it is extraordinary. This is a work of art from one of the greatest designers of our time. The dress has its original hang tags in place and is in its original uncut length. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in black silk satin through the bust and black silk chiffon through the skirt. It closes with a hidden set zipper at the back. The interior bust is shaped and lightly boned at the sides. Original tags attached. Tagged a McQueen 38.
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under bust: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist-hips: open
Bodice: 10.5" from shoulder to seam under bust
Length: approx 60" from shoulder to shortest point of the front hem, approx 90" to the longest point of the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD3473
Reference Photos: (1-2) F/W 2008 Alexander McQueen Runway Collection (Look 7 & Look 27).
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
Louis Mies
1970s Louis Mies Haute Couture Off Shoulder Silk Taffeta Dress w Hand Made Lace Detailing
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This dress comes to me from my same client whose aunt purchased from both the couture houses and Ady Couture while she was living in Switzerland during the eighties and into the nineties. Prior to that, during the late sixties and into the early 80s her aunt lived in both France and Brussels where she purchased pieces from Louis Mies along with the couture houses. Mies was a small independent couturier who did custom work for his clients to haute couture standards. He designed many pieces for the Queen of Belgium and like Ady, he had permission from several of the Haute Couture ateliers to produce their Haute Couture pieces and bought the fabric directly from them. I have some new information that he might have sold actual couture pieces through his salon as well. This dress bears a striking similarity to some of the 1977 Valentino couture collection pieces and I have included some of those iconic photographs here and if nothing else to show you how this dress will look on an actual body. It is absolutely unbelievable in person and one of my favourite personal pieces from her estate so far.
The level that this dress is made to is incredible. The fabric is a fine black silk taffeta and then parts of the design are edged in a beautiful French Chantilly lace. There are yards and yards of fabric used in the construction of this piece but once on the body it is all perfectly balanced. It sits off the shoulder to leave a bare expanse of skin showing that balances the volume of the dress below. I love the cut of the top. There is a six inch caped ruffle that wraps all the way around your shoulders and is edged with a 3.5" band of lace. Under that are extra extra wide sleeves. The width of the inner sleeves give the illusion of a layered caped detailing but they are actually true sleeves. Each sleeve is edged in that same lace to give the bodice a tiered effect from the side. The bodice is cut to skim over the body and then the waist is seamed to nip in for shape. I added a grosgrain ribbon to define the waist even more and this will be included. The skirt curves out from there and falls to the floor widening out to be very full as it nears the hem. The skirt is made up of three layers. The innermost layer is a full built-in black silk under-skirt that has wide bands of stiffened netting at the hem and then again part way up the skirt. These bands help to hold the volume. There are these little ruffled details that run along the seams where this inner layer is pieced together despite the fact that no one would ever see them. I love that. The second layer over that is made of black silk taffeta and it has two ruffled tiers at the hem that are both edged with black lace. The final top layer sits over both these and it curves up at the front to meet the seam at the waist. It is stunning. The dress is completely made by hand and I have included a couple of shots of one of the inner seams for you to see the amazing handwork. Excellent condition with a note below
Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk and the skirt is constructed as described above. It closes with a painted metal zipper at the back. Made by hand to couture standards. There are a couple small repairs / tiny holes on the ruffle on the neckline. There is so much fabric they get lost in the folds. Please see the final shot after the label. It otherwise looks unworn
Bust: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of natural shoulder to waist
Skirt: 43" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD3882
Reference photos: Valentino campaign 1977 shot by Deborah Turbeville
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
bill blass
Gorgeous Spring 1989 Bill Blass Runway Black Silk Halter Chiffon w Trailing Shoulder Panels
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Bill Blass launched his label in 1970 when he bought out the Maurice Rentner label and re-launched it under his own name. Blass was arguably one of the most famous of the American designers. His forte was the ability to mix simple styles with luxurious materials and his evening wear in particular seemed to have a way of flattering the wearer. He knew how to walk that line perfectly. This is a very chic little example of his work from this time period and is a little extra special because we have found its more colourful counterpart on the runway that season. The dress has a dated tag inside from Bergdorf's which was usually a special order. It is easy to imagine the client seeing the orange and yellow version and then ordering it in this very chic all black.
This dress is gorgeous. It is made out of a black silk chiffon that is a very fine scarf weight silk that is very difficult to work with especially given the draping that has been done on this dress. The dress is cut to flow beautifully around the body. The neckline is set high in a halter that comes up in a peek and the extends out into tiny straps that have panels draped over them that curve over the shoulders. The panels continue down to gather over the bodice. They drape down and around to the back in a series of soft gathers and then this top layer buttons over the back zipper. The structure that holds the dress in place is all hidden inside so that there is minimal seaming showing on the exterior. Instead your eye just follows down to the skirt that flows to the floor in yards and yards of silk chiffon. The halter front leaves your upper back bare. The panels that curve over your shoulder from the front extend down to drape dramatically towards the floor and billow out behind you as you move. There is a built in structure through the bodice and then three layers of chiffon float over you to the floor to create the skirt. This gives it the slightest bit of transparency that is fantastic. All of the silk and layers are cut on the bias so the dress really has the most spectacular movement when you move. It is simple and classic but has a high impact feel at the same time. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition
The bodice and skirt are lined in black silk chiffon and that part is lightly boned. The dress closes with a back zipper and then the skirt snaps to close over that and the bodice buttons over the zipper above that. The panels drape over the shoulders.
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 57" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4469
Reference Photos: Spring 1989 Bill Blass Runway.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
thierry mugler
Fall 1999 Thierry Mugler 'Vie en Rose' Collection' Black Dress w High Slit & Vivid Pink Lining
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The twin of this dress with a blue lining walked the Fall 1999 runway along with an all pink dress that also has the exact same cut. I have included both of these for you so that you can see how beautiful the dress is on and moving. I think that shock of pink is even better then the blue actually. I reached out to Ashley Scott, one of the leading Mugler collectors, who helped me source these runway looks and date the dress She expressed her delight on how rare this dress would be. The dress is stunning on the body and I am very happy to have video reference so you can see just how beautifully it moves.
The shock of seeing that vivid pink against the black when you walk is fantastic to see. The dress is cut with Mugler's masterful eye and attention to detail. It is suspended from tiny straps that curve over the shoulders. All the seaming on the dress is set vertically so that it enhances and highlights the curves of the body. The bust is shaped through the seaming to follow your curves. The neckline is scooped and the waist nips in and it is created by the shaping of those beautifully curved seems. It skims over the hips and then falls to the floor with a slight widening out as it near the hem. Depending on your height the dress will be full length or to about the ankle so that you see your shoes peek out from under the hem. On one side of the bodice the strap leads into a seam that is backed by that vivid pink silk. Where it meets the scoop of the neckline there's a little peak that is formed. I love that little detail. It is so Mugler. That seam has a bit of a stiffening to it so it holds its curve perfectly once on the body. It curves under and around the breast on the one side, then goes across the waist and down and over the other hip at the front. From there it splits into a dramatic high slit that allows your leg to show when you walk just like you see in the videos. The inside of the dress is lined in a vivid bright pink silk satin and as you walk your legs kick the skirt open and you see that flash of pink. It is an extraordinary dress. Rare and exceedingly beautiful. Excellent condition with one minor note below
The bodice is lined in a black silk and the skirt and behind that front curved seam is lined in the vivid pink as described above. There is a bit of a watermark on the inside hem at one corner. Please see the photo after the label shot. Tagged a Mugler vintage 36.
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 53" from top of shoulder to hem
Slit: 27" from hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4462
Reference Photos/Video: Fall 1999 Thierry Mugler Runway.
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The twin of this dress walked the Spring 1979 runway and I love having that reference photo for you as it shows just how fantastic these are on the body. This is classic Halston from his main label couture line. These one shoulder pieces are one of the most instantly recognizable of all of the looks that he ever created and have had a lasting impact on designers and their work since. Halston defined how woman dressed in the 1970s and these one shoulder dresses in particular were tremendously flattering to the body and have since risen to icon status.
This is an amazing couture Halston dress and a very special find especially since it does have the runway documentation that we found for it. It is entirely cut on the bias and utilizes his signature minimal seaming. It is also insanely sexy while still being extremely comfortable to wear. It is made out of three layers of a feather light bias cut silk chiffon in black. Even with the three layers stacked on top of each other it is so light that you are barely conscious of wearing anything. The lightness of the fabric allows it to move and drape beautifully around you. The dress is suspended by one hook at the shoulder and then you wrap and hook the outer layer around you at the waist. There is an elastic band through the waist that lets you let it sit lower at the top of the hips like I have shot it or wear it higher and belt it for added shape which gives you an entirely different look. One side of the skirt curves up and creates a ruffle and once hooks this sits perfectly at the side of the waist for pretty detail. The back of the skirt is longer then the front and falls to the floor. Where the skirt wraps over itself creates a high slit up the side for your leg to show when you walk or sit. The bodice is cut to skim over you and fall right to the waist in an open V plunge on the one side. It is spectacular. This is a rare example of Halston at his very best. Excellent condition
Constructed from three bias cut layers stacked over each other with elastic through the waist that wraps and hooks to close. It also hooks at the top of the shoulder. Hand finishes. It is all bias cut which should allow for a larger range of sizing. A wide grosgrain ribbon that is not original to the dress will be included (not photoed).
Bust: approx 14-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: approx 15-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: no true defined seams because of the wrap
Length: 41" from shoulder to the front shortest point and 65" to the very longest point on the hem but will come up a bit on once on
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4445
Reference Photos: Spring 1979 Halston Runway.
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oscar de la renta
Romantic 1980s Oscar de la Renta Backless Black Silk & Lace Dress w Killer Pouf Sleeves
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Oscar was known for his beautiful and feminine designs and this dress really showcases that. With our modern day obsession with all things eighties and nineties this play on proportions and fabrics still feels extremely of this moment fashion wise. Oscar had an amazing sense of aesthetics and his genius was in making women look and feel beautiful. This is the type of dress you can easily imagine in an editorial of the day on one of the reigning supermodels. It is just gorgeous
There are actually three fabric used in the making of this dress. The sleeves are a perfectly light in weight silk taffeta, the bodice is a black lace and then the skirt is a fine soft black silk with a very fine thin ribbing. The play on those three fabrics together is very romantic feeling. The neckline is scooped low and set wide across the shoulders at the front. At the back it has an even lower scoop out so that you get this great expanse of bare skin there. The sleeves are spectacular. They have built in tulle to help hold their volume and they are cut to be extremely full so that they billow out to just about the elbow. They have elastic running through the edges nearest to the shoulders and you can wear them up and on the shoulder like I have shot them here or I think you can also let them cascade down to leave each shoulder bare. The bodice is covered ion the black lace all the way around and I love the little lace peplum that circles the waist and balances out those sleeves. The skirt fall from under there in a beautiful curve to the floor. The skirt is finished in a fine stripe that I love. Inside the interior of the skirt there is an additional underskirt of silk organza that has a wide ruffled bottom that helps to hold the shape of the outer skirt. When you move the skirt shows it volume and movement beautifully. Excellent condition
The bodice is lined in a black chiffon, The skirt in a black organza and the sleeves have tulle inside them to hold the shape. It closes with a back zipper. Tagged a vintage ODLR 6
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: approx 17" from natural shoulder to slightly dropped seam under natural waist
Skirt: 44" from slightly dropped seam under natural waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4444
Reference Photo: 1982 Oscar de la Renta.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
valentino
Incredible 1998 Valentino Sample Black Dot Net Over Ivory Silk Taffeta Strapless Dress
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This incredible dress has it's original tag that appears to indicate that it was a sample from 1998. I have not been able to verify if this dress was produced for the shops or if it remained a one-off sample. If it is the only one that would be an incredible thing to have and even if it was produced it's so utterly beautiful that it would just be adding more beauty to the world if there was more than one. Of course I will continue to hunt for that information and one day I hope to send its new owner verification. Regardless of its production status, the dress is one of the best Valentino pieces I've ever seen.
This is a really stunning dress. And it shows how beautifully Valentino emphasize the female body will always stay completely elegant. The netting treatment on the dress makes you feel like you have been wrapped in the tulle. Underneath, the inner ivory silk taffeta layer gives the dress structure and it makes this beautiful, slight rustling sound when you move. The silk netting over that has a dot pattern over its surface. It is gathered down and along both sides. This creates this fantastic ruching all the way down that highlights your curves. Where it is gathered down both sides there is an elaborate line that has been beaded with two types of tiny black seed beads. The neckline curves around you at the top and then the dress is cut to skim over you with the shape all created by inner vertical seaming. The bottom skirt of the silk ivory underlay has been allowed to peek out from underneath the netting. It flares out and has an elaborate pleated ruffle all the way around. It is cut a little longer at the back and has extra fabric there as well so that you get this bit of a train effect behind you and a little fabulous kicking out of fabric as you walk. This is an incredible dress and one of my favorite Valentino pieces I've ever had in the shop. Excellent condition
The ivory acts as the lining through the body and then the bodice is lined with an additional layer of black silk satin. Lightly boned through the inner built-in bodice. It closes with a hidden set side zipper and the inner bodice piece has its own separate zipper. It has its original tag and appears to have never been worn. Tagged a vintage Valencia 40
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 55" from top of bodice to front hem, 59" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4431
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yves saint laurent
Fall 1979 Yves Saint Laurent Unlabled Haute Couture Black Silk Dress w Sequin & Rhinestone Detailing
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This is an incredible Haute Couture dress that came to me from the niece of the original couture client and is unlabeled. In our hunt for more information on it we found the runway photos from the 1979 Yves Saint Laurent dress and you instantly see that it is its twin in all ways except for the length. It is always the prerogative of the couture client to change some elements of the dress to suit their needs and in this case, this woman attended many functions where a full length dress was required. She frequented the Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy and Ungaro ateliers. She often removed the labels to avoid customs and it is fantastic to be able to verify which designer and collection this one is from as many of the records she kept were lost. The dress is completely made by hand to Haute Couture standards and it is incredible. I love having the runway photos so that you can see just how amazing it is in the body.
The dress is made from a crisp black silk and this fabric choice allows it to hold those beautiful lines that you see. It's beautiful shape is a testament to the level of workmanship that you only see in true couture pieces. At the front the neckline dips into a V and the dress is vertically seamed to follow the curves of the body. The sleeves are amazing. Each is cut on a curve to follow the shape of the arm in the traditional manner of making a sleeve. They are set into the shoulders with a beautiful series of soft pleats so that you get a bit of volume at the shoulder. They puff out slightly around the upper arm and then narrow down at their ends. At the back the dress scoops low to give you a bare expanse of skin. The back has a low set seam under the open scoop and this allows the top of the back skirt to lift slightly off and away from the body. A tiny detail that feels very sensual on the body. That same seam curves around the hips and angles up towards the waist at the front and then the skirt at the front is cut on a stunning curve that widens out as it reaches the hem. The back is fuller and it also falls a touch longer to give it the feel of it sweeping out behind you. Built in underneath the skirt is a ruffled black silk net underskirt and when you move or sit you see just a peek of the ruffle around the inner hem. Built inside the top of the inner skirt are layers of silk net that help to hold the fullness around the hips. The dress is detailed with hand applied sequins to form little varying sized circles that run over the entire bodice, the waist and the top part of the skirt. Two types of sequins have been used, tiny silver sequins one and others that are an iridescent pale blue. The blue ones catch the light and range in colour from silver to an ice blue. It is incredible. Mixed into that are some circles that are made from little glass crystal beads. All are hand applied and the entire dress is completely hand made to couture standards. I have taken some detail shots of the interior seams for you to see the fine Haute Couture workmanship inside. It is an incredible piece and just beautifully made. Excellent condition with a small note below
The bodice is unlined and the skirt is fully lined with a built in underskirt in a black silk net and taffeta. Built in panniers around the hip area that I have photoed. It closes with a hand set back zipper and the skirt snaps into place with silk covered snaps over that. Hidden set zippers at each wrist. Hand finished throughout. There is the occasional sequin or crystal missing on the dots here and there and I have photoed one area for you to see as an example. Please see the last detail photo for that. Unlabeled. Made to Haute Couture standards with a tremendous amount of detail put into its construction.
Sleeves: 24"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 58" from top of shoulder to front hem, 60" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD3677
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
john anthony
Incredible Fall 1975 John Anthony Glossy Black Completely Hand Beaded Runway Sample Dress
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John has dived into his archives once more for me and today I have two more of the dresses he sent for you with one last one to come still. This is the actual runway sample from the Fall 1975 collection and you can see how fantastic it is on the body on the reference photo we found. Like the ivory coloured one already in the shop, the bead work on the dress was done by hand by Madame Gandini, who did beading for many of the Couture houses of the day. John is one of my favorite American designers and right out of the gate he won the Coty Award for his work. The first time in 1972 and then again in 1976. He designed clothes that were simple and elegant but glamorous. His work veers towards minimalism with sharp tailoring. Striking evening wear was his signature and he is renowned for his cutting and tailoring. It is an extraordinary privilege to have pieces directly from his archives and these are things you will never see again.
John's business was all done on a made to order basis. That means the majority of pieces you will find are a one-off, or if there are similar pieces, very few of each piece exist. This personal attention to each dress is clearly seen in the workmanship of his pieces. His work is very expensive and beaded pieces like this sold for over $10,000 even in the 1970s. If you convert that to modern dollars you get to about $68,000 which is incredibly still less then a modern couture pieces done to this level would be. Having this actual runway samples that John pulled from his own archives to share with you is just amazing.
This is an amazing dress that is heavily and densely beaded. The base of the gown is made of an black silk chiffon and then onto that are thousands of vertical rows of glossy black glass tube beads laid out in to fully cover every square inch of the dress. The dress is already spectacular on its own and the addition of the thousands and thousands of glass tube beads give the dress an extra layer of texture and glamour. Every square inch of the dress catches the light and sparkles. As a result the dress is fairly heavy off the body. We weighed it and it is almost 10 pounds because of that extensive bead-work. Yet once on the body it perfectly drapes over you in a way that it is balanced and not at all unwieldy. The impact of all those beads from head to toe is stunning in the light. If you even remotely love it in the photos you will gasp to see it in real life. This needs a body to give it a life of its own and the camera cannot capture just how gorgeous it is and how the beads catch the light. The cut is sublimely simple. The bodice has a high collar and the bead work there is done in a slightly different pattern so that it has just a bit of added detailing. The rest of the dress falls from there in a beautiful column of beads to skim over you all the way to the floor. There is just a suggestion of the waist and it skims over the hips. The sleeves are long and equally as simply. They have that same slightly different bead work to give them a cuffed detail that is perfect. The back is just one long column of the bead work. The skirt widens out just a touch as it nears the hem and there is an extremely high slit up the back. You don't get as much sense of it in these photos but once on the body this really adds a high flash of bare leg as you walk away. It is insanely sexy. As good as it photoed, the effect that this dress has once it is on an actual body is far more dramatic and fabulous. If you even remotely love it in the photos you will dance when you see it in person as it is so much better in real life. It is completely made by hand and you would never be able to find its modern equivalent. It is stunning. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a black silk chiffon and it closes at the back with a metal and nylon zipper. Hand finished throughout. As noted above it has a good weight to it since it is fully beaded from top to bottom with glass beads but feels balanced when on and comfortable. There is perhaps the occasional bead missing here and there but no bare areas. Numbered sample tag on the inner hem.
Sleeves: 22" and 10" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 59" from neck to hem
Back Slit: 30.5" from hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-SML
Item# DD4404
Reference Photos: Fall 1975 John Anthony Runway.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
loris azzaro
1973 Loris Azzaro Couture Black Flame Sequin Detailing & Feather Light Silk Chiffon Dress
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Loris Azzaro launched his label in 1967 and quickly defined his trademark looks by using ornate fabrics and avant garde ways of defining the body. Some of the most beautiful women in the world wore his clothing including Marisa Berenson, Raquel Welch, Jane Birkin, Sophia Loren, Brigitte Bardot and Tina Turner. It was a label that defined sexiness and had a certain French flare that women world-wide loved. By the seventies and eighties he was experimenting with volume and proportions and new fabrics that at the time were all cutting edge. This is a stunning example of his work during the mid-seventies. When researching we found several examples of dresses from 1973 that utilized the same jagged flame pattern and sequins against silk chiffon. This one actually looks like a sleeveless version of the one shot on Marisa Berenson. This is a label that I really love and am always happy to find pieces from.
This is a gorgeous dress. It is really one that will come to life even more once on an actual body and I hope the photos convey enough of how fabulous it is because when worn this one will be even better. The entire body of the dress is covered with densely applied black sequins and these catch the light from every angle. This covers you from that jagged design on the bodice down and over the hips. The sequins extend right from the flame design at the front and then are set in long vertical rows to the hem. The top of the bodice is a single layer of black silk chiffon. This bit of transparency adds an incredibly sexy feel. He used that same silk chiffon down the back where it dips into a low scoop. I love the way that the jagged flame pattern defines the bust and that low scoop at the back. A high slit up one side lets you have the perfect flash of skin when you walk or sit. It is fabulous once on an actual body. Excellent condition
Fully lined through the body in a black silk and it zips to close at the back.
Bust: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 57.5" from top of shoulder to hem with 2.5" turned under
Slit: 19.5" from hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-XL
Item# DD4403
Reference Photos: (1-3) Marisa Berenson in a Loris Azzaro. October 1973. Photo: Michael Holtz. / (4) The cover of the book "Azzaro" for Assouline - Marisa Berenson and Loris Azzaro photographed in 1973, for issue 604 of L'Officiel de la Couture et de la Mode de Paris, by Roland Bianchini. / (5) Image from the book "Azzaro: Fifty Sparkling Years" / (6) Magazine spread featuring a model in Azzaro, 1973. / (7) Spring 1973 Loris Azzaro Couture.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
jean paul gaultier
Exquisite Fall 2000 Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Nude & Black Net 3D 'Script' Dress
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This dress is a work of art and instantly recognizable as being a Gaultier. His career spans decades. His first show was in 1976 and his avant garde designs quickly gained him the reputation of being fashion's 'l'enfant terrible'. His designs mixed cultures with abandon, gender norms were blurred and the body was presented encased in ways unimaginable prior to his own unique vision. His first Haute Couture collection debuted in 1997 and his final show where he was the designer was in Spring 2020. He has since then had guest designers come in for his couture collections and I love this solution for him as a designer. Gaultier couture rarely comes to market and this one is exceptional. It is also very well documented.
The Fall 2000 Haute Couture presentation was called 'Paris and its Muses'. I have included the original runway reference photos here and tyou can see that this is the twin of the runway look. Doutzen Kroes was photoed in it for Vanity Fair that season and in 2013 its twin dress was featured in the exhibit "The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk". I was invited and attended the opening of that show in San Francisco and I love having this dress in hand now. This dress was obviously a favourite of Jean Paul's because he also chose to recreate a version of it for his Fall 2018 Haute Couture collection. That 2018 version was then worn by Rita Ora for the 2018 MTV VMAs. I believe that this may have been the only dress that was produced beyond the runway version
The dress is made from a layer of fine black silk netting that falls over an interior nude coloured lingerie weight stretch silk. This makes it very easy to wear and be comfortable on despite the dramatic feel it has. Onto the silk netting are hand made and hand applied letters made of a black silk chiffon shaped over stiffened netting inside them. This is how they get that 3D dimensional feel that you see. It is fascinating to think that the entire dress would have had to have been careful planned out prior to its creation. Every single word that you see running over its surface would have had to have been laid out and placed on the netting for it to all work before it was even started. The degree that each word would need to curve over the body would have had to be planned for and then each word meticulously sewn onto the netting by hand like a puzzle. The letters cover the dress from head to toe and include 'Cherie', 'Mon Amour', 'Jean Paul Gaultier', 'Paris' and more. It falls from the shoulders and skims over the body and then widens out dramatically as it nears the hem. Where the words are set along the hem the hem is actually done to follow their shapes. A stunning couture detail. The letters also cleverly act as support to hold the fullness of the dress and are in a way like having a crinoline but one that is done in letters and attached on the outside of the skirt rather then worn underneath and hidden. The entire dress is suspended from the shoulders from straps that are just wide enough to accommodate the lettering that runs over them. The front has a low scoop and the back dips into a low V for some bare skin to show. It skims over the waist and then it flares out dramatically to the hem. The entire dress is bias cut so moves beautifully over the body. All of the seams are finished with proper couture techniques and it is as beautiful to see as the outside. This is a dress that would have taken hundreds of hours to complete and you really are wearing a piece of art. I am obsessed. Excellent condition with some very minor notes below
Composed of two layers, the inner nude lingerie weight stretch silk and then the netted layer over that. The inner layer closes with a zipper and the outer layer snaps to close with a tightly spaced series of tiny snaps. There is some minor stress to the netting around the seam of the armholes. I see a couple of the ends of a word that have popped through the silk a bit and some small tiny snags/ stress to the netting here and there. All of these are very minor. Please see the photos after the Couture label. The dress otherwise looks to have been worn very little if at all. Made by hand to Haute Couture standards. It's proper Haute Couture tag is present and it comes to me direct from the original couture client . It is extraordinary and rare.
Bust: 15-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15 " flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 62" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD3612
Reference Photos/Video: (1-3) Fall 2000 Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Runway Collection. / (4) Doutzen Kroes in Jean Paul Gaultier couture from the 2000 collection for Vanity Fair, 2009. / (5-9) Jean Paul Gaultier exhibition at the Grand Palais, 2015. / (10) Fall 2018 Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Runway Collection. Look 34. / (11-13) Rita Ora in Jean Paul Gaultier at the 2018 MTV VMAs.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
loris azzaro
Incredible 1973 Loris Azzaro Couture Black Flame Sequin Detailing & Feather Light Silk Chiffon
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Loris Azzaro launched his label in 1967 and quickly defined his trademark looks by using ornate fabrics and avant garde ways of defining the body. Some of the most beautiful women in the world wore his clothing including Marisa Berenson, Raquel Welch, Jane Birkin, Sophia Loren, Brigitte Bardot and Tina Turner. It was a label that defined sexiness and had a certain French flare that women world-wide loved. By the seventies and eighties he was experimenting with volume and proportions and new fabrics that at the time were all cutting edge. This is a stunning example of his work during the mid-seventies. When researching we found several examples of dresses from 1973 that utilized the same jagged flame pattern and sequins against silk chiffon. I've included those so you can get an idea of how great this looks on a body. This is a label that I really love and am always happy to find pieces from.
This is a gorgeous dress. It is really one that will come to life even more once on an actual body and I hope the photos convey enough of how fabulous it is because when worn this one will be even better. The entire body of the dress is covered with densely applied black sequins and these catch the light from every angle. This covers you from that jagged design on the bodice down and over the hips. And because of the way the pattern is done on the bodice the sequins also extends down to cover each arm. I love it. Where it meets the skirt is finished in the same jagged pointed pattern all the way around. And then what is perhaps my favourite detail is that the skirt is actually made up of individual patterns that are each sat up and into the points. There are 12 of them all together and they go all the way around you. Each panel is a single layer of black silk chiffon that is incredibly light in weight. When you move sit or walk they have tremendous movement around you. And because each is an individual panel that is only attached at the top you also get glimpses of bare skin between each panel. It's incredibly sexy. He then used that same silk chiffon at the top of the chest and down the back where it dips into a low scoop. It buttons down the back can you see a hint of skin between each button. I absolutely love the way that the jagged flame pattern defines the bust and runs all the way around the scoop at the back. It makes it instantly recognizable as an Azzaro piece. It is really gorgeous. If there was ever a dress that needed a body inside of it to bring it to life, this is it. It is stupendous once on. Excellent condition
Fully lined through the body in a black silk and the rest is as described above. Each sleeve is unlined so you get a bit of transparency between the sequins. It closes with a buttoned back. Each sleeve has a small zipper closure. Where is one of his signature strapless bras attached inside the bodice which could be easily removed if you wish. The colour is a perfect solid black. Any green or any other colours you see are just the light reflection from the camera
Sleeves: 23" and are 12" around the upper arm
Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: 16-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 59" from top of shoulder to the longest point of hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4347
Reference Photos: (1-3) Marisa Berenson in a Loris Azzaro. October 1973. Photo: Michael Holtz. / (4) The cover of the book "Azzaro" for Assouline - Marisa Berenson and Loris Azzaro photographed in 1973, for issue 604 of L'Officiel de la Couture et de la Mode de Paris, by Roland Bianchini. / (5) Image from the book "Azzaro: Fifty Sparkling Years" / (6) Magazine spread featuring a model in Azzaro, 1973.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Chic Fall 2002 Yves Saint Laurent by Tom Ford Black Pant Suit w Velvet Trim & Curved Sleeves
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A version of this jacket was shown on the runway with a matching skirt for Look 5 as seen on the Fall 2002 Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent runway. The Vogue review of that collection stated in part: 'Tom Ford is very, very good at being wicked. The designer was in an adult-erotic frame of mind at Yves Saint Laurent, taking potential clichés such as black satin ribbon, taffeta, velvet, chantilly lace and fur and applying them in an offhand way to extravagant, body-emphasizing pieces that often looked as if they might fall off at the slightest pull of a bow. What, after all, could be more provocative than a woman wearing expensive clothes that look as if they were made to be undone by a lover? ... The show was full of amazingly detailed, sexily cut suits, fabulous coats and sweeping evening gowns delicately inserted with lace.' Ford's work for the Gucci and YSL label during this period has now reached cult-like status and this pant suit is an incredible example of what he was doing to make it that way.
This is a stunning suit. It fully has the feel of the runway that season and is a classic piece that defines Tom Ford time at the label. Both pieces are made from a black wool cashmere mix that is trimmed with deep black velvet. The construction is immaculate. The shoulders of the jacket are slightly sloped but still shaped with light padding. The sleeves are incredible. They are cut on a curve with no seam at the elbow which is in the proper and traditional tailoring method. Along the inner edge there is strip of velvet and the sleeves are gathered in towards that. This creates a gather all the way down the arm and it is fabulous. The body of the jacket is cut as precisely. It skims over the bust and nips in at the waist and then flares back out over the top of the hips. There is a neat flap pocket on each hip and another pocket on the breast. The collar takes a play from a men's tuxedo and is finished in velvet. The front is gathered slightly down the front like the sleeve detailing is. Two carved button close the front and I love the ribbon detail that follows along all the seams. Each sleeve has four more of the buttons. The pants are equally as fabulous. They are banded around the waist and are cut to sit slightly low on the hip. There is a sharp fold running down the front and back of the pants. The lower half of the pant leg flares out a touch and this gives them a long and beautiful line on the body. Slant pockets on each hip and button slit pockets at the back. This is a remarkable example of his skills as a tailor and his time at YSL. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a black silk with two button closures on the jacket as described above. Lightly padded shoulders and the pockets have their original tacking in place. The pants zip to close at the front. Both pieces are tagged a FR34. It appears to have been worn very little if at all
Jacket
Sleeves: 24"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 26" from neck to head
Pant
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 41" waist to hem with 2" turned under
Inseam: 30.5" from inner seam to hem
Rise: 14.5" from back waist to inner seam
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4337
Reference Photo: Fall 2002 Yves Saint Laurent Runway, Look 5. Model Rie Rasmussen.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
thea porter
Extraordinary 1969 Thea Porter Black Silk Chiffon Dress w Red Print & Huge Balloon Sleeves
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This same print was used on dress from one of Thea's very first fashion shows that was held at her Greek street shop in London. But the label on this dress was unusual and did not match the ones that would have been used for that show so I reached out to fashion historian and author Laura McClaws Helms. Laura wrote the book on Thea Porter released a few years back and she also curated the museum exhibit on her work. She told me that in the very early days Thea would sometimes meet with boutique owners and agree to sell select pieces to them. This dress is from one of those collaborations and that makes this dress a very rare piece. Once that was known we ended up finding a photo of the twin of this dress within Laura's photo archives dating it to 1969. It is a stunning and early example of what was to come and it is just a beautiful dress besides.
The dress is stunning. It feels a bit like her 'Faye' dress in its design but with the addition of those incredible sleeves. I love the stark mix of black white and red and how the print is done in panels that run down the front and back of the dress. The the sleeves and side of the dress are made from a semi-transparent black silk chiffon and that touch of transparently is very sexy. The printed parts are also a silk chiffon that has been completely covered in a graphic swirling pattern of red, white and black. The body of the dress is backed in a layer of silk chiffon to make it slightly more opaque and wearable but the sleeves are a single layer of chiffon. Their volume is partly created by how they come out from the waist and because of how they are set from the waist like that you get a glimpse of the transparency along the sides of the bodice when you move which is just insanely sexy. It is still subtle though because of how full the sleeves are cut. Each one falls from the shoulder and connect down right to the waist. Each wrist is finished with a tie made from the printed chiffon. Once on they will sit up more and billow around you. There is banding at the slightly empire set waist and this extends out at the back into long ties that you can cinch to add more shape. The print runs down the front of the entire dress, circles round the hem and then meets the panel that runs down the back. Beyond its rarity and place in fashion history it is just a gorgeous dress. Excellent condition with a small note below
Fully lined in a black silk chiffon except for the sleeves which are unlined. The dress zips to close at the back. Stiffened tulle set into each shoulder to hold the shape. The band at the waist extend to ties that you can cinch in the waist as desired. Hand finishes throughout. One of the ties at the wrist has a tiny bit missing from its edge that you do not see when it is tied. I see a couple of tiny pinholes near one shoulder. Please see the photos after the label shot
Sleeves: approx 28"
Shoulders: no true defined seam
Bust: no true side seams
Seam under the bust: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 12" from top of shoulder to seam under the bust
Skirt: 45" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD3491
Reference Photo: (1) Model in Thea Porter, 1969. Photo courtesy of Laura McLaws Helms.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
valentino
Gorgeous 1970s Valentino Original Black Silk Taffeta Dress w Wide Sleeve Jacket & Ruffle Detail
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Valentino launched his ready to wear label in 1962 just two years after opening his first salon in Rome. He eventually expanded and added other boutiques. His first New York boutique launched in the fall of 1970 and it caused a sensation. Traffic was backed up 3 blocks with everyone who was anyone trying to get in on opening night. More boutiques followed including one at Bergdorfs. He encouraged his couture clients to also shop in his boutiques. He wanted everyone to have the Valentino experience and noted that he often carried the lines he created for his Couture label into the boutique work. The fabric and construction details were still remarkably close in quality to his couture pieces at this point in time. The line between the two was often blurred and on this set you can see that in the hand finishing that is has. This is one of the most beautiful Valentino pieces I have had in the shop.
The dress is made out of a black silk taffeta that holds its shape and volume beautifully. This is a two piece set made up of a dress and its matching jacket. They are fantastically beautiful worn together but I also love that having the two pieces gives you more styling options and extends the life of this in your wardrobe. The dress is suspended by two tiny straps that curve up and over each shoulder. The bodice dips into a wide set V at the front and dips lower across at the back to leave a bare expanse of open skin. It is cut to be more fitted to the waist and then under that it is all volume and drama. The skirt has an incredible amount of volume to it that shows best when you move. The lightness of the silk causes the skirt to billow out and move around you as you move yet it still has enough weight that it holds that full feeling when you stand still. When this is on and you are walking the effect that this creates is absolutely gorgeous. The 13" ruffle that circles the entire lower hem is actually added on top of the skirt and not simple seamed onto the edge. That means the ruffle has the inner part of the skirt behind it and this extra weight and fabric helps to hold its shape. A very clever little construction detail. The ruffle also adds an extra touch of romance to the piece. And it has pockets. Over this pops the jacket and it is a thing of beauty in its own right. The body of the jacket widens out from the soft shoulder and curves around and up from the hem to the neckline. I love the ruffle finish that follows all the way around the edge. The sleeves are incredible and each is cut to be very wide by the time they reach their ends. The seam above the ruffle finish on them is a full 20" around and the ruffle makes it go beyond that even. It is absolutely beautiful. This is Valentino at his best and a tremendously beautiful dress and jacket. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a black silk. The dress closes with a back zipper and there are two hidden hook and eye at the base of the jacket at the front. Tagged a size 6.
Dress
Bust: to 16.25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 14.5" from top of shoulder to waist
Skirt: 43" from waist to hem
Jacket
Slightly inset shoulders: 13"
Sleeves: 22.5" long and 14" around the top part of the arm
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 17.5" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4054
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
arnold scaasi
Stunning 1980s Arnold Scaasi Couture Black Silk Strapless Dress w Shocking Pink Ruffle
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Arnold Scaasi was born Arnold Isaacs in Montreal and the name Scassi is simply his own surname in reverse. He studied in Montreal and in Paris, apprenticed at the house of Paquin and then worked with the legendary Charles James. In 1964 he opened own couture salon. He dressed Hollywood stars like Lauren Bacall, Diahann Carroll and Elizabeth Taylor. He dressed several first ladies including Mamie Eisenhower, Hillary Clinton and both the Bush first ladies. He even once bragged that he refused to give Jackie clothes for free. He was the man behind the scandalous 1969 Barbra Streisand sheer trouser outfit that she collected her Oscar in, and he was presented with the Council of Fashion Designers of America Lifetime Achievement Award in 1996. The dress is from his main label and these were extremely well made pieces. It is so dramatic and in being so also so very Scaasi. He himself once said 'I am not a minimalist designer! Clothes with some adornment are more interesting to look at and more fun to wear.'
You can easily see the influence of Arnold having worked for Charles James in this piece. The lines are dramatic and yet elegant. The silk is that incredibly rich feeling silk that drapes and sits beautifully. The dress is strapless and is gathered from there to just past the hip. The gathers are all held in place along the side and this brings in the cut so that it follows and highlights your curves. The skirt is set under that and the seam is done on a slight angle to add visual length to the dress. On the opposite side that seam extends down and into a deep point to give the body length there as well. The skirt is quite full and the shape and volume that you see is held by the inner construction which is quite amazing. The innermost layer closest to you is a fine black silk that is finished at the hem with a broad inset band of stiffened netting so that the shape is kept. Over this lay four full layers of tulle netting and then the outermost layers sits over all of that and even that top layer is self-lined in a black silk organza. The final perfect touch is that extraordinary ruffle that is set along the side and runs down the front all the way to the bottom of the gathered bodice. The ruffle is black on one side and then the other is finished in a shocking pink silk. This unexpected shock of color is fantastic. I have placed it to one side but the dress is so well made that you could wear it almost anyway around and just change where the zipper sits and the back or sides.Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a fine black tissue silk. The bodice is lightly boned on the ruffle side and it closes with a back metal zipper on the opposite side. The inner skirt construction is described above. Hand finished throughout.
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 18" from top of bodice to dropped seam
Skirt: 39" from dropped seam to hem with 4" turned under the top layer
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4305
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
arnold scaasi
Gorgeous 1980s Arnold Scaasi Black Net Dress w Multi Colour Sequins & Asymmetrical Skirt
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This dress is by Arnold Scassi and I love the choice of sequin and net that he used for this one. Scaasi worked under Charles James at the start of his career and many of his dressed reflect this early influence. His boutique line was launched in 1984 and was high end ready-to-wear and very expensive. Pieces from it often have a demi-couture level finish and really are an extension of his couture line. This one is especially fabulous and just is one of those pieces that feel joyful to look at.
This gorgeous little dress is constructed from multiple layers of feather light black tulle net that has hundreds of sequins sewn onto the very top layer. The sequins absolutely bring the dress to life. They are a mix of red, green, blue and gold and cover every square inch. The light bounces beautifully off them as you move. The top netted layer sits over multiple inner layers which is what gives the dress the volume that you see. The dress is strapless and the bodice is kept simple so the sequins take center stage. It is gathers down one side and the seam at the bottom is set on a sharp angle that dips down very low on one side. The skirt explodes out from that seam and that angled cut of the bodice is followed by the angle of the hem as is cascades towards the floor lower on one side. There are yards and yards of fabric in the skirt. Under that very top sequin embellished layer is another layer of tulle, then two layers of a stiffened netting and an inner black silk layer beside your skin. A flower made of the same black netting and sequins, with a black bow on top, sits on the one hip for the final perfect touch. It is fabulous and just a joy to see and wear. Excellent condition with a note below.
The skirt is fully lined in layers as described above. The bodice is lined in a black silk with interior boning. The dress closes with a side zipper. The occasional missing sequin here and there but no large bare spots. There is a touch of patina on the sequins here and there.
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 12" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 27" from waist to shortest part of the hem, approx 40" to the longest
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4304
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
loris azzaro
Dramatic 1987 Loris Azzaro Black Strapless Dress w Low Full Skirt & Shoulder Flare
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Loris Azzaro launched his label in 1967 and his trademark look soon developed. He became know for his extravagant use of colour, beading, sequins and avant garde ways of defining the body. Some of the most beautiful women in the world wore his clothing including Marisa Berenson, Raquel Welch, Jane Birkin, Sophia Loren, Brigitte Bardot and Tina Turner. It was a label that defined sexiness and had a certain French flare that women world-wide loved. By the eighties he was experimenting with volume and proportions and new cutting edge fabrics. This is a wonderful example of his work during this time period. We found a reference photo of an Azzaro dress with a very similar shoulder treatment and I think this one is even better.
This dress is nothing short of a bold and dramatic statement piece. The bodice is hand draped into soft rounded gathers over the bust. They continue all the way down under the bust to follow the curve of the body all the way to just below the hips. For this part of the dress he used a black stretch jersey that gives the dress it's fitted shape but also keeps it comfortable to wear. Inside the dress is one of his signature strapless underwire bras and this has been sewn into the dress for added support and shape. The top edge is shaped into a low sweetheart curve and the gathers are set to run horizontally down the body. Hand set vertical seams are tacked into place at points all the way around you to give the gathers a slight scooped feel and add length to offset the horizontal lines. It also keeps the gathers from adding bulk. Under that the skirt is set low and i is made out of a black textured silk that has a metallic finish. This is set over several layers of built in under skirting to help give and hold the volume you see in the skirt. On each outer side the panels of the skirt slightly lift up and away from the dress. To tie this into the top, the same fabric and swooping line is used to create that sweep of fabric on the one side of the bodice. I love how this flares out up and over the front portion of the shoulder. It is fabulous. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a black silk with a built in bra though the bodice that hooks to close separately. It closes at the back with a painted metal and nylon zipper. The interior bodice is boned. Layers of tulle and silk underskirts under the low set skirt. The flame/fan detailing on the bodice has wire inside to hold it up. It would be easy to add additional wire or stiffening inside if you wanted it to really hold even taller then it does now. Hand finished throughout
Bust: to 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam and the inner waist stay hooks slightly smaller then that
Hips: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 52" from top of bodice to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD3680
Reference Photo: Model in Loris Azzaro, L'Officiel No. 734, September 1987.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
chanel
Spring 2006 Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld Haute Couture Pant Set w Detachable Collar & Sleeves
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This is an incredible example of Karl Lagerfeld's Haute Couture work. I am so glad this was a runway piece because it was almost impossible to photo correctly on the dress form. The elaborate sleeves that you see coming out from under the jacket are actually separate pieces altogether. You can see on the runway shots how beautifully they sit on an actual arm. My client opted for a more sleek jacket that did not take her in it at the waist as much as the runway look did and a more classic trouser. If you preferred that cinched in waist look you could easily belt the jacket. The simpler silhouette of this jacket allows for more versatility and styling. Sarah Mower said on her review of the show that; ‘It was pure Chanel, crystallized to a point of perfection only witnessed in haute couture…. Karl Lagerfeld began this mostly black-and-white collection with a new treatment of the Chanel suit…. These were paired with flat white go-go boots, which were not referenced from the sixties, but from a pair Coco (always ahead of her time) was wearing in a photograph from the decade before. That allusion and others demonstrate just how deftly Lagerfeld—Chanel historian par excellence—marshals his knowledge. He sprinkles the camellias, the satin bows, the organdy collars, and the bound edges so lightly that they become playful thrills—not belabored underscorings of theme or "brand identity."…. Lagerfeld reinvents the house signatures to pique the fantasies of today's young woman—and that he does just beautifully.’
The lines of this suit are crisp and sharp and the tailoring is immaculate. This is sharply contrasted with the dandified collar and arm pieces. It is incredible to have the full suit. This set includes the jacket, pants, inner top, collar and both arm pieces. The suit is made from a fine black wool that is light in weight and has a slight texture. It is just heavy enough to hold the shape beautifully. The jacket is cut to have a slight oversize feel through the body. The shoulders are shaped and the sleeves fall to just past the elbow. There is no collar. The neckline comes down the front in a simple V and then it zips to close down the remainder of the front. Two sleek little pockets are stacked on top of each other on either side of the waist for some detailing. It is cut to be more straight through the body and then flares out slightly at the hem, falling to just past the hip. The pants are classic and simple in their cut. They are flat fronted and cut to taper down to the ankles. A sharp fold runs down the front and the back of each leg. The inside of the suit is as immaculate as the outside and it is entirely made by hand. Every stitch is perfection. Under that goes a little sleeveless ivory silk top with a small neat collar. The top is easy fitting through the body. The top three buttons are finished with rhinestones and enamel and then the rest of the buttons are hidden under a flap of silk. Three additional pieces come with the suit. The first is a detachable silk organdy collar that goes around the neck and adds a romantic flounce with a large soft bow and ties. This gives the suit an unexpected touch of drama. Next is a pair of detachable sleeves. The sleeves are also made out of the same silk organdy as the collar and slip on the lower arm. Both those and the collar have a nod to the regency era when this type of sleeve and collar were all the rage. The sleeves are finished with a row of those beautiful buttons and the ends are ruffled. Every piece has been entirely made by hand and all the proper Chanel couture labels and numbered tapes are present. I love that with this one set you have so many pieces to mix and match with other things you own. It allows you to be able to sprinkle a bit of vintage Haute Couture throughout your wardrobe. This is a rare opportunity to own a piece of true couture by one of the most important designers of our lifetime. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
The jacket and pants are hand lined in a fine black silk. The jacket closes with a hidden zipper under the front panel of fabric. The pockets appear to be functional and all four still have their original tacking in place. The pants zip to close with a hidden set side zipper. The toppings to close at the front. The collar snaps into place and the sleeves slip onto the arm with functional buttons running down the cuffs. The edges of the collar and cuffs have intentional raw edges. I see one small area of breakage in the silk on the edge of one cuff. Please see the photo after all of the label shots. I see one rhinestone missing off one button on each cuff and one on the top. All of the pieces are made and finished by hand to couture standards. Proper couture labels present with couture tape are present on all pieces but the sleeves. Sourced from the original couture client
Jacket
Sleeves: 18"
Shoulders: 15.5"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 34.5" from neck to head
Pant
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 39" from waist to hem with 1.5" turned under
Inseam: 28.5" from inner seam to hem
Rise: 15.5" from back waist to inner seam
Top
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24" from neck to head
Collar
14" around and the snaps could be adjusted up or down a bit if needed
Cuffs
Length: 13" including the extended cuff, 9" without
10" around the upper edge and narrows to 7" around the wrist
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4263
Reference Photos/Video: Spring 2006 Chanel Couture Runway, Look 9. Model: Svetlana.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
bill gibb
Museum Held 1970s Bill Gibb Black Liquid Jersey Dress w MOP Buttons & Extensive Beading
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Bill Gibb was one of the most influential designers in 1970s Britain and his clothes were worn by the rich, the famous and the beautiful. Much of his work verged on couture and he was unrelenting in striving for perfection. His work has a high fantasy element to it. Every piece I bring into the shop is very special and the range he had was incredible. I recently had a deep brown version of this dress in the shop only a couple of weeks ago and I'm very pleased to have another one so soon. This dress is also a little extra special because its twin in ivory was part of the 'Great Names in Fashion' exhibit at the Fashion Museum Bath.
The body of the dress is made of a fluid black jersey fabric that is light in weight and drapes amazingly on the body. It cascades and flows to the floor from the densely beaded panel that sits across the upper bust. A second matching panel is also set at the back. Both panels have been completely hand covered with a design that is made out of hundreds of ivory and gold glass tube beads. Along the one side of the front panel there is a row of hand carved mother or pearl buttons that runs from the top of the shoulder to just past the waist. The buttons are functional and hold a decorative overlay in place that tops the inner dress. This overlay loops under the opposite arm and wraps around you to the back where it attaches to the panel there. The overly adds this incredible draped Grecian feel to the dress and it also gives it added movement when you move. The dress underneath is a long sheath that falls from the shoulders and widens out slightly as it nears the hem. The sleeves are long and each one ends with more of the MOP buttons. The entire dress is detailed with these strips of tiny little raised beads on a silver strip. These follow all of the edges of the dress and he even use them for all of the long interior seams of the inner dress even though you don't easily see them. I just love that he did that and it just shows you the attention that was paid to dresses during this time period as opposed to modern pieces where they probably wouldn't have bothered to put extra detailing where no one would ever see it. The strips add a touch of weight and help the dress to fall perfectly around you and they also catch the light for added glamour. During this time period these jerseys would have been cutting edge fabrics and an unusual choice for a designer to use and considered very avant garde. It is stunning and a beautiful example of Bill Gibb's work and its never a bad thing when it is a proven museum worthy piece. Excellent condition with a tiny note below
The dress is unlined and slips over the head top wear. The attached panel buttons into place over the interior dress. Each cuff has loop and buttons to close. It appears have been worn very little if at all. The loose and easy cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes. I have given the comfortable range of measurements while laying flat. On a smaller frame it will just drape more. The striped applique at the top of one shoulder has a couple of beads missing on one part. Please see the photo after the label shot
Sleeves: 21.5"
Slightly dropped shoulders: 15"
Bust: 15-18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 16-22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 58" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4232
Reference Photos: Bill Gibb Dress on display at the "Great Names of Fashion Display" Exhibit at Fashion Museum Bath.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
Micro Mini Spring 2014 Anthony Vaccarello Runway Strapless Mini Dress w Gold Dome Buttons
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Anthony Vaccarello is currently the Artistic Director of Yves Saint Laurent and his rise to fame was meteoric. He started at Fendi under Karl Lagerfeld where he stayed for two years and then in 2009 he moved to Paris and launched his own self-named line with five looks. In 2011 his label won the ANDAM prize. One year later his muse, model Anja Rubik, wore a look to the 2012 Met gala and he rose to international fame as she went viral worldwide in it. By 2014 his collections sold out the second they dropped and were wait listed worldwide.'Girls are their most beautiful during their holidays,' Anthony Vaccarello explained backstage. 'I wanted to try to bring swim to the city.' His clever cuts for this show felt fresh and new and they were very sexy. Dresses like this one were cut micro mini short and were as bare as you could get. The twin of this one walked the runway for Look 14 on Cindy Bruna and its spectacular. This one is new with tags and has never been worn.
The dress is strapless with a built-in inner added corset for support. The dress is shaped through a series of vertical panels piece together with long seams running from the top of the strapless bust to the bottom of the mini skirt. The half seam at the front waist drops down on an angle to create length through the body and add tot eh sarong illusion that the skirt has. One side of the skirt is cut exceptionally short and then the other side drops down at the front to create the illusion of a wrapped around you piece. This is what gives the dress a sarong feel and brings in that swimsuit/vacation feel that he mentioned as being part of his influence. Fused onto the front of the skirt are huge cabochon feeling gold domed metal buttons. These buttons were applied to many of the pieces throughout the collection and gave everything a slight play on military dressing. The dress is short, fitted and meant to show off all your curves. It is sexy AF. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a black rayon and has an inner additional lightly phone bodice to help shape. It closes with a hidden set back zipper. The colour is a black that in some light has a blue feel to it. All the original tags are attached and has never been worn. Tagged a modern 38
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24" to hem and 30" to the longest point at the front
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4233
Reference Photos/Video: Spring 2014 Anthony Vaccarello, Look 14. Model: Cindy Bruna.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Fall 1982 Yves Saint Laurent Iridescent Purple Silk Taffeta Gigot Sleeve Dress
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The twin of this dress walked the runway for the Fall 1982 show and I love that we found photos of it for you so you can see just how spectacular it is one and how the sleeves sit once on a body. This silhouette with its dramatic sleeves and full skirts was an important element for that season. It is just a stunning example of one of his most recognized looks.
The dress is made from a combination of two of his favorite fabrics, silk taffeta and silk velvet. These became signatures of his and ran through his collections from the start of his career to the finish. It is a stunning piece. The top is cut to skim over the bust with a scooped neckline at the front. It is seamed at the waist and then extends down over the top of the hips. There is an attached silk taffeta sash that wraps around the waist and cinches you in for added shape and detail at the waist. The sleeves are full with a beautiful sweeping cut that starts at the shoulders and remains full to just past the elbow. At that point the fabric changes to to a velvet. Four glossy dome buttons detail the lower part of the sleeve. These are meant to be pushed up slightly to exaggerate that pouf of the upper sleeve even more. The skirt falls from under the velvet and it is beautifully full. The photos do not really do the amount of fabric in the skirt full justice. I love that under the top purple layer of silk there is a lining finished in a coral red silk taffeta. You don't see that inner layer when you are standing, but when you sit or move just right, you get that extra flash of color. It's a small detail that I am obsessed with. The fabric choices helps keep the intended shape and volume. Pieces by Yves from this time period have become an important piece of fashion history and having documentation like this one has makes it that much better. Excellent condition.
Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk satin. The skirt is lined in a deep red silk taffeta and the sleeves are unlined. It closes at the side with a metal and nylon zipper and each cuff buttons to close. The sash is attached at the back. Slight flattening to the velvet here and there along the waist seam that is covered by the belt once on. Tagged a vintage YSL 40.
Sleeves: 29"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 17" from shoulder to waist
Skirt: 43.5" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD2856
Reference Photos: (1-2) Fall 1982 Yves Saint Laurent Runway. / (3) Alice Englert wearing this dress for Harper's Bazaar, 2023.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
chanel
Tailored Fall 2000 Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld Black Haute Couture Dress & Jacket Suit
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The twin of this set in a different colour walked the runway for the Fall 2000 show for Look 11. My client ordered hers in black and that simple colour change makes it incredibly timeless. The suit is beautiful and so chic. I also have Look 17 from the show in the shop that has a longer jacket from the same client. True Haute Couture pieces by Chanel are an extraordinary find as they are so very rare and hard to come by. It is an incredibly beautiful and historically important example of the work that Karl was doing for Chanel during this time period. It is absolutely gorgeous to see in person.
I love that this is a suit with a dress and jacket rather than a jacket and skirt. It makes it so versatile and you can mix and match both pieces and wear them in so many different ways. Both of the pieces are constructed from a find black wool that has a touch of texture. It is absolutely beautiful. The inner dress is cut in the sleek and simple shift that skims over the body and flares out slightly as it nears the ham. Clever and subtle seams shape the dress around you so that it's very flattering. I love the seaming detail at the neck to give it the feel that the fabric crosses over itself. It is hand lined in a rich black silk so feels like heaven on. The jacket slips over that and has slight shoulder pads for a touch of structure and the sleeves are long. It has meticulous seaming set in curving lines to create the shape that you see. There is a simple hook and eye closure at the neck and two functional pockets on each side. It is hand lined in that same high end black silk and there is a signature Chanel chain set around the hem. What really makes it exceptional is that ruffled piece that goes from the neck right to the hem. The ruffle gradually narrows down as it reaches the bottom hem and this adds an unexpected touch of detail and softness to the jacket. It also creates movement as it slightly moves as you move. On the dress this same fringe detail circles around the hem. When the two pieces are worn together this extra little detail softens the feel of the set and gives it a nice pretty and romantic touch. This is a stunning and timeless example of Chanel's Haute Couture work. It is meticulously made and it is a beautiful piece showcasing the work that the Chanel ateliers are capable of and of Karl's time there. Excellent condition.
Both the dress and the jacket are hand lined in a fine black silk. The dress closes with a back hidden set zipper that follows along an offset seam so that it looks to have no closure at all. The jacket has a hook and eye at the top of the neck. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Both pieces have an appropriate Haute Couture label and numbered tape present. Both pieces are completely made by hand
Jacket
Sleeve: 23.5"
Slightly inset shoulders: 15"
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24" from neck to hem
Dress
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 38" from shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4177
Reference Photo: Fall 2000 Chanel Haute Couture Runway Collection. Look 11
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
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This dress is a tough one to date as the label style that is in it covers the period from the 1980s to the early 1990s. It is most likely from the time period when Karl Lagerfeld was the designer for the Chloe label but could potentially be Martine Sitbon. Karl designed for them from 1965 to 1983 and then Sitbon took over from 1987 to 1991. In 1992 Lagerfeld again headed the design team until 1997. Either way this is a rare find and I look forward to sending the new owner verification when I confirm one way or the other one day as I am sure I will stumble across it at some point. The dress is fantastic even beyond that question and I am obsessed with it.
The first thing you will notice about the dress is that it is as light as air. It is made from a feather light silk organza that has just enough crispness to it to hold the shape but that adds as little weight as possible. It also has this ultra fine finish that gives it a bit of a liquid look but in a subtle way. It is quite a remarkable fabric actually. The dress is strapless and the bodice is gathered into soft draping pleats that are gathered in and held in place down the seam on both sides, the back where the zipper is and down the front. There is no added inner foundation and just light boning down each side. It simple drapes over your body and your coverage is provided by the gathered top layer of gathered fabric and the opaqueness caused by a single inner layer of black silk. The gathers run from the top of the bodice to just below the hip. The seam that ends at the hip is softly curved as it is gathered in and up towards the center. The skirt falls under that to the floor and it is also made from a double layer of the silk. The two layers of the skirt float over each other and will move with your slightest movement. Attached at the center of the bodice is a wide sash of fabric that is shapes into a big soft bow. From that bow there are long ties that extend down to softly fall over the front of the dress. This adds so much detail and volume and I love it. The fabric has a touch of transparency to it and with the double layer of the silk there is a depth created by the layers sitting over each other that is fantastic. It is a beauty. Excellent condition
The second inner layer of the same fabric n the skirt acts as the lining and the bodice is lined in a black silk. It closes with a back set zipper.
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 53" from top of bodice to hem
Item# DD4076
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Spring 1987 Yves Saint Laurent Runway Black Net & Raffia High Low Dress w Ruffle Detail
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This gorgeous little dress is the ready-to-wear version of the Haute Couture dress that Yves created. I have included the runway photos of the couture version that walked the runway and that was featured in an editorial that year so that you can see how the dress looks on. The ready-to-wear version is a slightly simplified version of it but otherwise looks remarkably the same. He often did this with a few select pieces from his collections so that his non-couture clients had access to his work as well. The 1987 collection is one of my all time favourites and I am very pleased to have this wonderful example from it in the shop for you.
If you are a Yves Saint Laurent fan the second that you saw this dress you would have known that it was his work. This was a definitive look of the Couture collection and I love that he made a ready-to-wear version. I am also glad I have reference photos for you because if there was ever a dress that needed be seen on a body this is it. It really is not being done full justice on my dress form but it is gorgeous on the body. The dress sits off the shoulders to leave a bare expanse of skin. The sleeves are cut to follow the arm to just past the elbow. A pretty chiffon ruffle edges the entire neckline and then another ruffle curves around each wrist. The bodice skims over the bust and comes in at the waist. Under that the skirt flares out dramatically and is quite full. The front of the skirt is cut to the knee, or just above depending on your height, and then the edges of the skirt curve down and around to a full length at the back. The fullness and the length change give it a ton of movement when you move. The fabric is a segment in itself. It is made from a black silk net backed by a black silk tulle. Then onto the top net layer is a design made of black raffia. This gives the dress an incredible texture and the raffia catches the light fantastically. It also means that the parts of the dress that are not lined have a touch of transparency which is very sexy. This is an incredible piece of Yve's history and an absolutely gorgeous dress. Excellent condition with a minor note to review below
Lined in a layer of tulle as described above and then there is a inner lining though the bodice and to just past the hips that is made out of a gold nude toned silk chiffon covered in a layer of black silk chiffon. It closes with a side set zipper. The raffia has small breaks in it here and there. I have never seen a vintage piece with raffia detailing that does not do this as it ages. It is inherent to the material and normal wear.
Sleeves: 18"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam before it flares out
Length: approx 35" from natural shoulder to front hem, 52" to lowest pint of the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD3888
Reference Photos: (1-2) S/S 1987 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway Show. / (3) Brynja Sverrisdottir in S/S 1987 Yves Saint Laurent Couture. Photo by David Bailey.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
alexander mcqueen
Spectacular Spring 2008 Alexander McQueen 'La Dame Bleue' Look 26 Red Feather Trim Black Suit
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This suit is instantly recognizable as an Alexander McQueen piece and it is stunning. The spring 2008 collection was called 'La Dame Bleue' and was a tribute to his mentor and friend Isabella Blow who had committed suicide on May of 2007 after a long bout of illness. His statement of the show was this; 'Isabella flew. The collection is exuberant and excessive. It's about her way of thinking and that way of thinking brought light into fashion. Even when she was down she was up with what she wore. I had the best times with Isabella. I remember going to Mauritius with her and I'd come back from scuba diving and it would be 100 degrees and she'd be standing on the beach head to toxin McQueen with a Philip Treacy Hat on. Or we'd be sitting around the pool and she'd still be head to toe in McQueen with a Philip Treacy hat on. I've though a lot about why she would wear things like that and she wore them because it made her feel like a diva. She was a diva in what she wore. She pulled it off. I never blinked at what she wore. It just seemed normal. So this was a collection about Isabella ad about wearing clothes that transform you." The entire show was a beautiful testament to someone he loved dearly. In Vogue's review of the collection they said; 'All terrible emotions apart, McQueen, like every other designer, can only be judged in the unsparing light of the general arena of fashion. To put it bluntly, this collection—after an off season last time—was going to stand or fall based on whether his clothes were any good....It stood. McQueen mustered the clarity to dispense with smoke and mirrors and show his capabilities in cut, drape, and feathered flourish to an audience near enough to inspect every detail. He stepped up to the plate by running through all his archived knowledge—Savile Row tailoring in Prince of Wales menswear check jackets and strict, strong-shouldered suiting, combined with the legacy of his couture experience in fan-pleated chiffon, goddess-y drape, and hand-crafted drama. The theme of birds—particularly symbolic of Blow—held the show together through a reprise of all the highlights of McQueen's career... In all, McQueen honored his mentor by striving to bring out the best in himself.' This was the fifth last collection of his career and these last collections are considered to be some of his most brilliant.
The suit is identical to the one that walked the show with the addition of the wide black patent belt. Very few of these would have been produced and it is amazing to have such an wonderful piece of his work in the shop and to have the full suit with both its detachable feather collar and belt. This one has the extra added provenance of having been lent by me and worn by Sofia Carson for the Unicef 75th Anniversary Luncheon. Its twin was also worn by none other then Michelle Obama for her Ebony Magazine cover
A piece like this truly showcases McQueen’s strong tailoring background and master cutting abilities. The suit is made from a light black wool suiting fabric and gives a nod to his heritage and strong tailoring roots. The jacket is also cut with sharply tailored lines and then he has added that spectacular feather collar and brought in the waist with the belt to create a more feminine shape. The belt slips through slits on either side of the back. I love that it still feels very refined despite its avant garde details and cut. The shoulders are squared off and padded to hold their shape. Each sleeve is cut on a slight curve in the proper manner of tailoring a sleeve and ends in 4 buttons at each cuff. The body of the jacket is shaped with a female body in mind and is cut in at the waist for shape. It closes with a single button there. I am obsessed with the collar. The neckline is edged in a black patent that curves around the neck and narrows down to a point where it then meets the button at the waist. The feather collar is detachable and is made by a thick overlapping of red dyed feathers with black painted edges. It buttons into place along the inside of the collar and is set to stand up and frame the neck. This gives it a very unusual detailing and plays into the avian theme the show had. Under the waist the jacket skims over the hips and it is slightly cropped. Slant pockets sit on each hip and they still have their original tacking. At the back it is cut to flare out a touch. The skirt has been kept very simple so that it is the jacket that shines. It is cut with a flat front and is fitted into a short pencil silhouette. You really need to watch the runway clip to see just how stunning it in on and moving. I also photoed it in all its variations so you can see it with and without the belt and feather collar. The workmanship is meticulous and it is an absolutely beautiful and a rare piece of his work. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
Both piece are fully lined in a black silk. The jacket closes with a single button at the front. The skirt closes with a hidden set zipper. The feather collar buttons into place and the belt closes with hidden snaps. The jacket is tagged a size 40, the skirt a 42 and the belt is a 38. Padding on the shoulders and the pockets on the jacket have their original tacking to close them. It looks like the sides of the skirt were taken in a touch at some point and when it was lent to Sofia it was taken in a little more with a temporary alteration and you can see a bit of the stitch lines on the inner lining. A bit of crinkling on the belt but it is where it sits under the jacket when on so is not seen when worn
Jacket
Sleeves: 24.5"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24" from neck to longest point of hem
Skirt
Waist: to 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 21" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD3870
Reference Photos/Video: (1-4) Spring 2008 Alexander McQueen Runway Collection, Look 26. Model: Raquel Zimmermann. / (5) Sofia Carson at the Unicef 75th Anniversary Luncheon, Dec 2021. / (6) Michelle Obama in Alexander McQueen, Ebony, September 2008. / (7) From the book “Alexander McQueen” edited by Claire Wilcox.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
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This Chanel hat is from the Fall of 1996 and it is gorgeous. I found a editorial shot of Stella Tenant wearing a version of it that was shot by Karl himself. The hat is so dramatic and easy to wear. It is meant to sit lightly on the top of the head and then you can play with which direction you want the feathers to face. It can be worn with the feathers towards the front, either side, or to the back and sit as high or low as you want. This gives it so much versatility in styling it and the feel of it completely changes depends on how you place it on your head. It has its original attached comb in place. The feathers are full and glossy. It is stunning. Excellent condition
Secures to the head with a comb. The base is a black felt wool. Because of the half hat / cap design is should fit any size head. Each side of the triangle shape measures about 8" long.
Item# A339
Reference Photo: Stella Tennant by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel Fall 1996.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
jean paul gaultier
Fall 2001 Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Heavily Beaded & Embroidered Pant w Silk Jersey Top Set
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Jean Paul Gaultier's illustrious career spans decades. His first show was in 1976 and his avant garde designs quickly gained him the reputation of being fashion's 'l'enfant terrible'. His designs mixed cultures with abandon, gender norms were blurred through his pieces and the body was presented encased in ways unimaginable prior to his brilliant vision. In 1997 he entered the sanctified world of Haute Couture and for just over two decades produced stunning work cumulating with his final show for Spring 2020. His pieces of couture rarely come to market and I am very pleased to have this unbelievably beautiful ensemble. This was look 33 for the Fall 2001 Haute Couture presentation entitled 'China and Spain'. For this season Gaultier combined elements from those two countries in a beautiful homage. Pieces from this collection were featured in the The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk exhibit of 2013 and to have a piece available for purchase is almost as rare as being able to have bought it as a couture client in the first place. After the show Gaultier said of this collection “I wanted to do something more sensual than sexy. The idea was to bring together everything that you imagine when you think of China and Spain—theater, movement, color, history and richness.” The twin of this look was worn by Alec Wek on the runway with a huge red bib neckpiece over the top. This may have been the only piece ever produced beyond the runway set.
It is extraordinary to think that Jean Paul Gaultier has only produced a Haute Couture line for two short decades given his long career. Like most Haute Couture, this is a set that only truly comes to life when it is on an actual body. I was very pleased to have found the reference photos and video so that it shows you just how amazing it is on. The pants are a work of art. They are incredibly heavy. They have been densely beaded with glass tube beads in tightly spaced rows to cover every inch. Worked into the sequins are the brilliantly coloured flowers that you see. These are all hand embroidered and trail over the pant legs, wrapping around them to act as a living wall of art. The work to place each of these beads individually and do the embroidery must have taken hundreds of hours to complete. They are cut with a flat front and straight leg that is quite wide. So when you move they move and this adds another element to the design as the light catches the beads while the colours of the embroidered flowers burst around you. The top is made out of a silk jersey and my client ordered it in a solid black. It is ingenious how it closes with a complicated array of a hidden zipper front with two separate areas of silk covered snaps and hooks. I have included some photos of the stages of how it closes for you to see. It wraps around the body and drapes to the one side. The collar is high and you can see the reference to China with its shape. Each sleeve is incredibly long (see the third last detail photo before the label) and when they are pushed up the create a design detailing in themselves with a row of rounded gathers forming around the entire lower part of the arm. I love the long trailing swag of fabric that is set on one side. It cascades over the pants and to the floor. This panel of fabric elevates the design even more and gives it that Gaultier feel of going against the norm. It also has a nod to the trade de luces cape, part of the traditional clothing that Spanish bullfighters wear. It is a brilliant piece of Haute Couture and is everything you want to see in a Haute Couture piece; elegance, breathtaking beauty and a dash of avant garde. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition.
The upper portion of the top is lined in silk and it zips to close at the inside front. A jersey panel wraps over this and closes with a series of silk covered snap and hook & eye along the side near the neck and also along the waist and hip area of that same side. The pants are fully lined in a silk and close with a hand set zipper. There may be the occasional bead missing from the pants. All the interior work is done by hand to Haute Couture standards. Proper Couture tags on both pieces. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Sourced from the original couture client
Top
Sleeves: 45.5" and push up to wear
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Interior waist: to 13" flat across from side seam to side seam, inner waist stay hooks at 14"
Hips: open
Length: 29" from neck to shortest point of the front side, 37" to longest point of the back
Hip swag: 47" from waist to longest point of the hem
Pant
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 42" from top of bodice to waist
Inseam: 30" from inner seam to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD3581
Reference Photos: Alek Wek for Fall 2001 Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Collection.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
This wonderful little 1920s flapper dress was completely made by hand and a wonderful example of the level of craftsmanship being utilized during this time period. It has its original Made in France label still present and these pieces were always a little higher quality then some examples you see from the time period. It has no other label but it is not hard to imagine that it might have been a designer piece as well. The base of the dress is a black silk netting that is strong and sturdy. Onto this is an intricate design made up of gelatin sequins set boxes. Each is a combination of purple, pink & turquoise in an alternating design. The placement of each sequin is by hand and it is amazing to think of the time it would have taken to make the fabric alone. The center of each block makes me think of a cluster of little pink "hearts" that are then surrounded by an abstract shape. A metal based gold lame thread and tiny little gold tubes beads are then shaped around each to make the block design that you see. These are then stacked in rows to cover the dress entirely with the black netting serving as the separation between each. This combination of colored sequins, gold thread & beads is absolutely fantastic. There is an extra panel of netting inserted at each hip to give the skirt extra flare. Excellent antique condition
The dress is unlined and slips over the head to wear. The edges of the side net panels are raw and at one time there may have an extension to them but it is now cut even with the hem. I see no other flaws and it appears to have been worn very little if at all and is wearble with the care it would deserve to be worn with. Even with that small defect the dress is remarkably sound and shockingly beautiful. It is almost 100 years old and is considered to be in museum quality condition.
Bust: 17" from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" from side seam to side seam
Total length: 40" from shoulder to bottom hem
Note that antique and twenties pieces are final sale. They will be packed exceedingly well and we only sell pieces that will stand up to the stress of shipping, however, having pieces potentially shipped multiple times through multiple customs and countries is too hard on garments that are historically important and deserve to be treated with love and care. Please purchase accordingly.
Modern Sizing equivalent: XS-SML
Item# E290
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.