After emigrating to the US in 1933, Rudi Gernreich started working in theater as a costume designer. He worked under Gilbert Adrian for a few years and eventually started his own small independent label in 1948 while still working for various other labels through to the 1952. At this point he started to develop the basis of some of the knits he would become known for while working for  the JAX boutique and doing freelance for several department stores. In 1960, Gernreich finally launched his own company and in 1964 renamed it Rudi Gernreich Inc. He is best known for his own label's work and the work that he was doing for Harmon knits in the 1960s and 1970s. Pieces like this dress are now regraded as being highly collectible.

This dress is from the 1971 season and several variations of this print were done and documented that season. His fascination with this graphic check print seems to have consumed him full force during this time period. Here we see three variations of the check used to maximum effectiveness. The top portion of the dress is done in a small red and navy check. The sleeves are more red in feel with a slightly larger so;id blue check running vertically down them. This balances out the skirt which is cut to be more full. Here the checks are of the same size and are quite large. The original belt that comes with the dress has the same check as the top and it anchors the entire design. The bodice is cut to be fitted and the skirt is set so that is has volume. It is made of his signature light wool knit. It is very rare to see a piece that still has its belt so I am happy to have had that come with it. It is a magnificent statement dress and highly collectible. Excellent condition with some small notes below.

Unlined and closes with a painted back zipper. The belt is backed with leather. The fabric around the round buckle shows signs of separating from the backing but still presents well. I see two nicks out of the fabric that I have photoed. I had this cleaned and temperature treated and the fabric seems stable. Please review the photos after the label shot and before the reference photos. Tagged a vintage S.

Sleeves: 23"
Shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 16-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 16" from neck to waist
Skirt: 31" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3402

Reference Photos: (1) 1971 Rudi Gernreich Dress from the Indianapolis Museum of Art Collection.  /  (2-3) Peggy Moffitt in Rudi Gernreich, Fall 1971. Photographed by William Claxton.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Rudi Gernreich was known for having some of the most innovative and dynamic fashion of the 1960s. His clothes made a social statement for ideas like sexual freedom, by making pieces that highlighted the female body in an unrestricted way. The Harmon knitwear line was sold at his Seventh Avenue showroom alongside his own label as of 1964.

This is a wonderful and rare example of his work during this time period and it is also just a really terrific dress. It is down in a solid black which is perhaps more subdued then what you normally think of for his work, but also makes it incredibly easy to wear. The dress is made of a lightweight wool knit jersey. This has just enough weigh to it to keep the shape and volume through the skirt that he wished it to have. The bodice is more fitted with rounded shoulders and skinny cap sleeves. It waist line comes to right under the bust and the front neckline plunged right to that seam. Below the seam under the bust the skirt flows from the waist to just above the floor. This gives it some volume and shape that perfectly balances the low plunge of the front. Very collectible and yet still very  wearable. Excellent condition.

Bust: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under the bust: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist and hips: open
Bodice: 12" from top of shoulder to seam under bust
Skirt: 41" from seam under bust to hem

Unlined and slips on the wear. There are snaps and a hook & eye that under the plunge at the front to close. Tagged a vintage 10

Modern Sizing equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD946

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival

In its heyday the Gene Shelly of California label was a must have. Gene Shelly dresses are amazing and they are some of the best of the early sequinned vintage pieces that you can find. All of the sequin work that covers this dress was done by hand in Hong Kong on American manufactured knit. The company would send the stretch wool fabric to be hand beaded or sequinned to Hong Kong. The fabric was then sent back to the US and the dresses were made in California. At the time, Hong Kong was doing the best sequin and bead work in the world outside of the specialty ateliers in Paris. Having the bead work down there actually helped keep the cost down though the dresses were still fairly expensive. Full length pieces cost around $600 dollars in the mid-1960s - which is the equivalent of about $4700 in current USD.

The dress has the label's signature stretch knit base which makes it extremely easy and comfortable to wear. This one has a gold knit to match the sequins that cover its surface. Onto the knit are thousands and thousands of tightly spaced, bright gold sequins. Each sequin has been meticulously applied by hand into place. Every inch of the fabric is literally covered with sequins. The neckline is cut wider across so that your collarbones show and the back has a low V dip to it. Edging the neckline is a dense application of larger gold paillettes that are set to stand up from the fabric to create a 3D feel. This same edging circles the end of each sleeve. The dress hugs the body from the neckline to the hem and I love how the hem has that little curved notch at the front More of those fabulous 3D paillettes circle the entire hem. The dimension and texture created from the result of all of the hand work done on the dress is wonderful. The dress itself is immensely flattering with its figure hugging shape. The knit is set on the bias so it shapes and molds to your figure once on. Excellent condition.

The base is a gold toned stretch knit and the dress closes with a painted metal zipper at the back. The sequins are all applied by hand and I see no bare spots. A little wear to the lustre of the sequins here and there that is normal for sequins of this age. The measurements are taken flat and shows the comfortable range of each spot. Note that it is a touch brighter gold in person and it is even more of a wow when you see it in real life. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. The stretch will allow for a variety of sizes

Sleeves: 19"
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 16-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 16-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 41" from shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Item# DD3294

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This elaborately sequin and bead covered dress is even better in person.  The workmanship on it is outstanding with a dense, hand applied application of large black paillettes, smaller sequins, beads and curving ropes formed from a 3D application of seed beads that break up the design. These cover every square inch of the fabric and have been meticulously placed by hand onto a black stretch knit base. Once on it hugs the body in a way that is very flattering. The dress has a very simple cut. It is basically a chic sheath silhouette with a slightly nipped in waist, a barely there suggestion of a cap sleeve and a V neck. The back is also finished with a V cut but it is cut to dip lower then the front does. The skirt is cut long and lean. The hand work down on the dress gives it a 3-dimensional quality as they are set raised up from the knit. Glossy black flowers are formed from the combination of the various beads used and thick ropes of twisted black seed beads loop and curve through the design from top to bottom. Everything has a high gloss finish and I love the way it gleams in the light. It is also a great wearable size and the knit base makes it feel fantastic once on and extremely comfortable to wear. Excellent condition.

The bead work and sequins are hand applied onto a soft knit base that I believe to be cashmere or a cashmere mix. It closes with a back metal zipper. The edges of the slit are finished with a black silk panel of fabric but it is otherwise unlined. The knit gives it quite a bit of stretch and the measurements give below are the comfortable range lying flat. You may be able to get a bit more then that if needed.  It has the high end department store, Neusteters, label in it but no longer has its ioginal designer label present

Bust: 18-22" flat across the back from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14-17" flat across the back from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18-22" flat across the back from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from shoulder to waist seam
Skirt: 37" from waist to bottom hem

Modern Sizing equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# E416

Reference Photo: Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival

This dress is from the early 1990s and the 1992 collection featured a ton of dresses with this boy short interior finish under a series of minis. The dresses from this year were as well known for their prices as they were for their brevity. Elle reported that year that his collection was 'extraordinarily pricey with cardigans run around $1,400 and dresses between $2,500 and $3,500'. In a 10 page spread that season, Azzedine speaks of his 'delights in the space-age fabric he used for his Spring 1992 collection (he calls the NASA-developed material "Relax" for its purported ability to act as a screen against microwave emissions)'. Azzedine produced two versions of this dress for this collection. At first glance they look very similar. I have the other version in the shop as well at the moment. The other version has a silver grey colored thread that circles the hem. This version is its more couture counterpart, and uses a real metallic thread and hand spaced mirrors to finish the hem of the skirt. 

The dress is made from Alaia's iconic black stretch knit. The neckline is set wide and scooped and finished with the scalloped edging that he was using during this time period. The knit has structure built into it and once on the body, it helps to shape and mold the body underneath it while never seeming too tight from the outside. The upper portion of the dress, including the sleeves, are done in a solid, flat weave knit. The skirt is set low on the hip  and is semi-sheer with a grey knit finish for contrast. Onto this knit are hand set glass beads that run on little individual horizontal rows stacked up each vertical knit row. Little paste mirrors are set by hand in between each row. Each mirror is held in place by silver metal thread. I love the fullness of the skirt and the movement it has. Under the skirt is a boy short bodysuit that snaps into place to keep you from being scandalous and provide coverage. A rare and special dress from one of the greats. Excellent condition.

Unlined and closes at the back with a hidden set zipper. The inner boy shorts snap to close. The fabric does have stretch. There is the slightest bit if shininess around the fabric and seam under each arm. Tagged a vintage Alaia Small.

Sleeves: 23"
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 16.5-18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 11-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 15-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 27.5" from shoulder to inner snaps of shorts with some stretch available if needed, 31" from shoulder to bottom hem of skirt

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3001

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This dress is early 1990s and the 1992 collection featured a ton of dresses with this boy short interior finish under a series of minis. The dresses from this year were as well known for their prices as they were for their brevity. Elle reported that year that his collection was 'extraordinarily pricey with cardigans run around $1,400 and dresses between $2,500 and $3,500'. In a 10 page spread that season, Azzedine speaks of his 'delights in the space-age fabric he used for his Spring 1992 collection (he calls the NASA-developed material "Relax" for its purported ability to act as a screen against microwave emissions)'.

The dress is made from that now iconic, black stretch knit. The neckline is set wide and scooped and finished with the scalloped edging that he was using during this time period. The knit has structure built into it and once on the body, it helps to shapes and mold the body underneath it while never seeming too tight from the outside. The upper portion of the dress, including the sleeves, are done in a solid, flat weave knit. The skirt is set low on the hip  and is semi-sheer with a grey knit finish for contrast. I love the fullness of the skirt and the movement it has. Under the skirt is a boy short bodysuit that snaps into place to keep you from being scandalous and provide coverage. A rare and special dress from one of the greats. Excellent condition.

Unlined and closes at the back with a hidden set zipper. The inner boy shorts snap to close. The fabric does have stretch. Tagged a vintage Alaia Medium.

Sleeves: 22"
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17-21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 28" from shoulder to inner snaps of shorts with some stretch available if needed, 31.5" from shoulder to bottom hem of skirt

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD2976

Reference Photos: Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

On the 2008 Resort runway for Chanel this was shown in a longer, graphic black and white, but was produced in this shorter all-black version. Diane Kruger later wore the twin of the version I have here to the Chanel Haute Couture collection, giving us a fabulous reference of how amazing this looks on a real girl. It is made from a stretch bandage fabric in black with different finishes used for each part of the dress. The bodice is made from strips of the fabric woven into a basket weave pattern. Straps button into place so you can change how they sit if you wish. Through the waist the pattern is set vertically and the knit has just a touch of transparency to it for a hint of sexiness. The skirt swings out from this beautifully fitted shape in a a "faux" pleat - the lines that give the illusion of pleats are actually worked directly into the knit. It's fabulous and absolutely gorgeous on.

Nicole Phelps of Vogue said of this collection in her review: "The spectacle Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel staged on Friday night at a Los Angeles airfield was so audacious, so over-the-top, it elicited a standing ovation before the first model hit the people mover. The designer, who took over Grand Central station in New York last May and commandeered a fleet of buses in Paris the year before that, chose a Santa Monica plane hangar for this year's resort extravaganza...."Airports and flying have become a nightmare," Lagerfeld had said backstage a few minutes earlier. "L.A. is about the dream of private jets and beautiful cars and glamour. Cruise collections are about the dream of freedom." 

Unlined and tagged a Chanel 36. It still has the plastic that held the hang tag through the label and has never been worn. The fabric is meant to stretch and hug the body.

Bust: 13.5-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 10-14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 45.5" from natural neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD2871

Reference Photos: Resort 2008 Chanel, Look 10. Model: Irina Lazareanu.  /  Diane Kruger attending the Chanel Haute Couture Show in Paris, January 22, 2008.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Made of a deep burgundy knit with fine threads of gold worked through the fabric, this bias knit dress has a subtle glimmer in the light that is just fabulous. It is completely cut on the bias so shapes itself to your curves as soon as you slip it on. The main body and complete back of the dress is done in a fine ribbing while the body has a puckered, gathered feel that is remarkably like a later theme used by Prada in one of their shows. This is the mainline label so the knit was more then likely very high end and innovative at the time. I love how it creates a long lean line and if you wanted to add more shape the knit is light enough that you could easily belt it. It is a touch too large on my mannequin so on a girl who is the proper size to fit this it will fall even better. A great and early example of his work. Excellent condition.

Unlined and slips over the head to wear. The bias cut knit will fit a variety of sizes. Off the body it is of course very skinny and slim but is meant to stretch over the body so the range of measurements given seems quite large.

Bust: 16-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 62" from shoulder to hem (will come up when on the body depending on how much it stretched width wise)

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD2343

Reference Photos: Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.