1950s Rare Lanvin-Castillo Blue Silk Suit
This is the 125th anniversary of the house so it seems fitting that this go out to its new girl now. This is an extremely rare Jeanne Lanvin-Castillo labeled ensemble. This is an "Execute par Maria Carine sur autorization speciale" (made by Maria Carine with special authorization).
This is a special garment and needs a bit more explanation - it is best explained by this excerpt from the Vintage Fashion Guild: Maria Carine was owned by Maria Moutet-Chenu. She worked with four couturiers: Heim, Desses, LaRoche, and Lanvin. After the couture showings, each couturier would give her sketches based upon the garments they had just shown. Moutet-Chenu made the toiles which were approved by the designers. Then each ready-to-wear garment was cut individually by hand in the Maria Carine workrooms in Paris using the same fabrics that were used for the couture garment. Maria employed hundreds of seamstresses, many of whom worked in their own homes. They sewed each garment individually to exacting standards. This was the highest of early high-end ready-to-wear.
In other words - this is a hand sewn, authorized piece, that would have been completely overseen by the house of Lanvin and is how "ready to wear" pieces were produced for clients. These were only produced for a small window of time before more mass market production methods took over and this was primarily done to circumvent the stringent export rules of the day - think of it as a off site atelier as this were only produced and overseen with permission of the house. They are not "copies" -they simply were produced off site. The quality is that of couture and this is perhaps the rarest of labels to find of this ilk. The fabric is unbelievable - it is a very lightweight fine silk brocade woven with a raised pattern of flowers in a deeper blue thread that has a contrast against the brilliant blue base. In person this fabric almost glows and it is very beautiful. It is extremely supple and is the perfect balance of being able to move and have structure. The dress is fitted through the waist but cut to skim over your curves. The sleeveless top gently gathers into the banded waist with soft pleats making it feel very feminine. The jacket is sublime with simple and straight cut sleeves that are just past the elbow in length and no collar. Two round pockets sit high on the chest. The waist has an unusual tie finish and hidden snaps to keep the ends in place just so. It is simplicity mixed with a masterful seaming and cutting and extraordinary fabric. This is really the equivalent of a made to order, one step under couture, garment. Hand finishes and extra detail throughout. Excellent condition and a chic, rare & beautiful set!
Unlined with a combination of grosgrain and hand stitched edged seams on the interior. The dress closes with a side set painted metal zipper. The jacket closes at the waist only with hook & eye and hidden snaps. Each pocket is hand shaped and sewn into place. Hand sewn interior silk banding at the waist for additional comfort.
Bust: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 14" from shoulder to top of waist band
Waist band: 3"
Skirt: 22" from waist to hem
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 17.5" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.