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This is the second time I have had a version of this dress in the shop and I love it even more this time around in this deep brown colour. This version of the Thea Porter label was only produced between October 1971-March 1972. Laura McLaws Helms, the author of the book "Thea Porter, Bohemian Chic" verified that it was from the Fall 1971 collection. Some of her pieces are so difficult to date and I love having the date on this wonderful dress.
This is a beautiful example of Thea's work with a brown cotton gauze base that has pink and ivory diamond medallions scattered over its surface. The fabric has a touch of sheerness to it and it is unlined through those incredible sleeves to take full advantage of that. The front dips down in a V and the bodice is fitted over the bust. The waistline sits a touch high for a slight empire waist feel. The skirt flows down and out from there and I love the wide set flat pleats that give it fullness when you move. Each sleeve is cut with a wonderful fullness that widens to a puffed balloon shape over its elastic cuffs. The sleeves really add a sense of drama to the dress. Running horizontally over both the sleeves and the skirt are wide cut lace panels. These are set to circle around each sleeve and just above the bottom hem of the skirt. I love the pretty touch this adds. I personally own the twin of this dress and it is a favourite. Excellent condition
The top is fully lined in a brown silky rayon and the skirt is unlined. It closes with a back painted metal zipper. Each sleeve has elastic in the cuff. Tagged UK vintage 16 but it cut small. Please refer to the measurements below.
Sleeves: approx 25"
Inset shoulders: 12.5" with the natural shoulder falling under the fabric of the top of the sleeve
Bust: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 13.5" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 55" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4897
Reference Photos: Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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I have had this tucked away in my archives for quite some time and it is spectacular. This is a gorgeous little skirt and halter top set that is a fabulous example of how unique her work could be. Of all of Thea's pieces are so special. Many were one-offs or were made in very limited quantities. She often thrifted and sourced odd bits of fabric and seemed to design with things that caught her fancy rather than have a solid theme season to season. Everyone who was anyone wore her work back in the day, including Elizabeth Taylor who was a huge fan and collector. This set is just spectacular and it is a very special piece.
These skirt and cropped top sets really showcase what the seventies flower power / hippie movement was all about. This set is especially fascinating with its screened wildlife covering both pieces and then the corresponding text that feels like it is from an encyclopedia explaining the different animals shown. The top is a simple halter type top that hooks into place behind the neck and then the bottom wraps and ties around you. When off the body you see that it is one elongated triangle with a strap that goes around the neck and then on each side the fabric extends out into long ties. I shot it with the ties at the back so you could get the full impact of the print on both pieces but you could also choose to wrap the ties to the front. The ties also lets you control how short or long it sits on the torso. You can wrap and roll the fabric so it sits higher or you can leave it where you see it in these photos. The skirt is equally as easy to wear. It has no band at the waist so that the text and photos printed on it are not broken up in anyway. It widens out dramatically to the hem from there. I took a photo of it laying out flat so you can see how wide the bottom hem ends up being. The fabric is a cotton that is a decent weight so that the shape is held. The combination of text and what looks like hand painted animals, but are actually screened into the fabric, is fantastic. It is gorgeous and I love that because it is two pieces you can mix and match it with other things in your existing wardrobe. This was almost certainly a one off and very rare. Excellent condition
Both the top and skirt are unlined. The top is as described above. The skirt zips to close. Both pieces appear to have been worn very little if at all.
Top
It is flexible in size since it wraps and ties and has coverage across the front. The front halter is 17" from side to side with no true side seams and is 13.25" long from neck to bottom.
Neck: 14" from end to end
Skirt
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 41.5" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4898
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
thea porter
Rare 1969 Thea Porter Runway Embroidered Organza & Hand Screened Cotton Dress
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The twin of this dress appears in the book on Thea Porter's work that accompanied the exhibit on her work. The photo appears on page 73. The caption in the book notes that "Claudia Bruce wearing a peasant style dress in a Persian paisley print combined with Damascus fabric and a leather and feather headdress. Greeks Street, London, 1969.". It is so rare to find runway photos of her shows and to have all this extra information is fantastic. 1969 is also an interesting year to note because it is the year that she started to sell her designs at Giorgio Beverly Hills. It was said that when word got out that Thea had new things in the Girorgio boutique, women ran to be able to get a piece for themselves, they sold out that fast. This is the only one I have ever seen like this outside of that book photo. Given her extremely limited run on certain pieces it may in fact be the only other one that was made and exists. It is truly a very special piece.
The dress is a fantastic combination of fabrics and this was something that Thea excelled at. She had the ability to source these fantastic antique fabrics and then mix and match them to put them together in a way that you had never seen done before. The front panel combines a floral and paisley print with beautiful detailing between. It runs down the front in a long rectangle shape and then she curved it over the shoulders and ran another panel of it down the back. The rest of the dress is made out of a clay coloured silk organza that has a beautiful pattern hand embroidered over its surface. A little chain of white embroidery runs through that pattern for a little bit of a pop. At the end of each sleeve there is an insert of the cotton fabric. This is set in a wide band all around the cuffs with these little points running up into the sleeve. The shape of the dress is easy and comfortable to wear. It skims over the body and flares out slightly as it reaches the hem. Slits run up each side so you get a flash of leg when you walk. Each sleeve is fantastic. Each is a full and voluminous balloon type sleeve that puffs up extravagantly around each wrist. The collar on the dress is perhaps the best part. A tie loops through the front part only and for most of the shots I have tied it enough so that it scoops like it does in the runway shot. However, you can loosen the front up and that allows you to push the dress down the shoulders to expose a full expanse of bare skin across the top of the shoulders. It is phenomenal. This is a very rare example of her work and most likely you will never see one again. Excellent condition.
Unlined and slips over the head to wear. The front collar can be adjusted with the tie as described above. Each cuff has a snap to close. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. There are little bits of blue dye on the front and back panel that looks like it has run a touch but I believe this is inherent to this fabric and this may have been like that since the day it was made. I do not think it is a flaw, but rather a result of the fact that the fabric was hand screened. Tagged a vintage Thea Porter UK 10. The easy cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes.
Sleeves: approx 15" and will come up a touch when the cuff is closed. Each upper arm is 13.75" around
Shoulders: no true defined scene
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 54.5" from top of shoulder to hem with 2" turned under the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4899
Reference Photos: Claudia Bruce for Thea Porter. Greek Street, London, 1969. (2) From the book Thea Porter: Bohemian Chic.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
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1970s
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