True Haute Couture pieces by Chanel are an extraordinary find as they are so very rare and hard to come by. This one, like several other of the Haute Couture pieces in the shop at the moment, are from one of my clients whose mother purchased the majority of her Couture pieces between 1973 to the mid and late seventies. This particular set has the added provenance of having its twin photoed on actress Sylvia Kristel. We also found the original presentation photo from the couture collection that year and it shows you just how gorgeous this set will sit on the body once on. It is an incredibly beautiful example of the work that the Chanel ateliers were doing during this time period. 

The set is two pieces. A silk jersey dress that has incredible lines and then a matching silk jersey cardigan that is hand beaded. The dress is made out of two distinct layers. There is a complete inner dress made out of a silk crepe that is cut to skim over you and act as an inner lining. Attached to sit over that is a silk jersey exterior layer. The jersey is all cut on the bias and it is incredibly flattering. The neckline sweeps across the collar bones and sits wide at the front. A thin and open keyhole runs down the center of the bodice from just under the top of the neck to just above the waist. The waist itself is gathered into this elaborate circle that is entirely and meticulously made from hand set pleats. This creates a pretty and soft effect at the front. All around that circle is a series of soft pleats that span outwards. The back is cut onto a deep V for a little bit of skin to show. The skirt falls in a draped column and there is no seam at the waist so the line remains long and beautiful. Over this is a soft cardigan made from the same silk jersey on the exterior. Inside it has been hand lined in a matching red silk chiffon. All of the edges of the cardigan have been covered with beautiful beaded flowers and a border that is made from red and black glass tube beads. These would have been applied and created by hand by Lesage to the exact specifications given by Chanel. The bead work gives the design a slightly raised effect and they have a subtle glimmer in the light. I love this contrast between the bareness of the dress underneath with the coverage of the cardigan. It gives you two completely different looks to work with and wearing it with the jacket completely transforms the look and feel of the dress. It goes from a more bare and sexy dancing dress to something that feels more formal but still with that sense of ease created by the silk jersey. Both pieces are entirely made by hand as Haute Couture dictates and the fabric would have been made specifically for Chanel and this piece. This is a fine and rare example from this time period. It is truly brilliant and when you see it in person you will be astounded at the level of craftsmanship and care put into the construction. In excellent overall condition with notes below.

The dress has an inner attached silk dress and there is a wide grosgrain band that hooks to close at the interior of the waist, The inner dress zips to close under that and the outer dress buttons into place with a series of hand covered silk buttons in a matching fabric. The jacket is fully lined in a red silk chiffon and hooks to close down the front. Both pieces have been completely hand made. The label was removed at some point. There is a are some small marks that I have photoed. They may come out with a more aggressive or specialty cleaning. Please see the photos starting after the shot of the way it closes at the back.

The color in person is more a deep raspberry/ soft burgundy with a bit more of a red pink tome then how it photoed. The waist measurement is taken of the inner grosgrain band. You should be able to add to it if you needed more room and get another inch or two to work with. It is all hidden under the exterior dress so would be a very doable tweak.

Dress
Bust: approx 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner grosgrain at waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner lining hips: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 60" from top of shoulder to hem

Cardigan
Sleeves: 23"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 25" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3730

Reference Photos: (1) SS 1976 Chanel collection in Paris, January 23 1976.  /  (2) Dutch actress and model Sylvia Kristel in Chanel, January 27 1976.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I had this set in the shop before and brought it back in. Since it left the first time we sourced an entire editorial that showcased some of the best pieces from Ungaro's Spring 1977 collection and I have included that here. It is incredible to have this level of documentation on this set and I am very pleased to have it in the shop again.  Besides its Haute Couture origins, this Emanuel Ungaro set has the added modern provenance of being worn to Madonna's birthday party in Italy by stylist B. Akerlund.

I love the brilliant mix of bright primary colors that have been used for this look. It is made up of two separate pieces. The top is a soft scarf weight silk and then this goes with that silk taffeta skirt with its apron overlay and attached extra long sash. Both pieces are made from high quality silks that have subtly different weights and finishes to them. The top is more of a soft draped silk like you would see in a very high end scarf, while the skirt is made from a light silk taffeta that gives it the shape and volume that you see. The top is fantastic. It has a floral design woven into the silk that runs on diagonal rows across. The color is a deep jewel red and it is cut loose and easy over the body so that once it is tucked into the skirt it poufs out over the nipped in waist. The sleeves are incredible. They are cut to be very full and billow out over each cuff. A long thin open keyhole runs down the front and it is edged with gold cording and bands of silk. This tucks into a bright green silk taffeta skirt that has a cinched and banded waist. Onto the waist of the skirt is an attached wide sash done in a bright yellow silk. This extends out on each side into very long ties that you can wrap and tie around you as you wish. A long front panel of fabric falls from the waist at the front in a bit of a play on an apron and onto that panel there is a beautiful painted scene. The contrast of the jeweled colors and the painted panel on the skirt give it a wonderfully couture level 'folk art' feel. It is stunning and with the extensive documentation it has it is made even more important. Excellent overall condition with notes to review below.

The skirt is backed in a white, fine silk organza and closes at the waist with a zipper and flat hook and eye at the waist. The top is unlined and slips over the head. Both pieces are completely made and finished by hand to Haute Couture standards. There are some small marks on the skirt that get lost in the fabric or are covered by the apron for the most part. There are some small areas of discoloration on the back of the skirt and a water mark that falls mostly under the apron. One small mark on the back of one sleeve. Please see the photos after the label shot

Top
Shoulders: no defined seam
Sleeves: 26"
Bust: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: open
Length: 25" from neck to waist

Skirt:
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 45" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3729

Reference Photos: (1-3) Spring 1977 Emanuel Ungaro Haute Couture, photographed by Peter Knapp. (4-6) B. Akerlund and Madonna

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Without a doubt this is truly an exceptional piece of vintage Chanel and a rare find. It is a wonderful example of the work that the house of Chanel was creating during this time period. This would have been from right before Karl joined Chanel in an official capacity in 1982, however, in the couple of years proceeding his appointment as Creative Director, Karl was doing freelance work with them so you can still see his influence. The first Chanel Ready-to-Wear collection debuted in 1978 and many of the early pieces like this one were made to order. The main difference being that the pieces were sent pre-sized for the client to the boutique and then the final fitting was done in the boutique rather then at the Chanel atelier. I was pleased to have found a runway shot that dates the set exactly and this suit has the added historical provenance of being the actual suit that was worn on the red carpet by actress Sarah Catharine Paulson.

The suit in person makes such an impact. Far more then it does in the photos. The camera doesn't quite catch the vibrancy of the silk lame fabric or the texture of the chenille that details it. Both the jacket and the skirt are made from a rich red metallic silk lame. Onto that there is a black tufted chenille cord has been hand applied into a squiggle pattern. There is padding between the red lame and the inner lining and this gives it a quilted 'puffed' feel. The texture that this creates is incredible. The actual cut of the set is minimal and this simplicity really allows the fabric to take center stage. The jacket is done with that classic Chanel box cut. The sleeves are long and straight cut. There are three hook & eye at the very top of the neck to hold it closed and then it is open under that to the hem. The edges of the jacket have been finished with a band of the chenille cording to highlight the cut. There are no other embellishments and this simplicity lets it sit perfectly in place once on the body. It is cut to sit just past the waist line of the skirt and you can see how wonderfully it sits in the photos of Sarah. The skirt skims over the hips and then gently widens out as it nears the hem. The top of the waist is detailed with bands of the chenille and there are pockets hidden along the seams of each hip. The fabric is lighter then it looks so the set is very comfortable to wear. It has enough weight to it that both pieces hold their shape perfectly and it has a very sculpted formal feel to it once on. I love that you can wear the two pieces together or break it up and mix them with things from your current closet. It give its a lot of styling options and versatility. The jacket has the Chanel boutique label present and inside the skirt is a hand written / numbered label. It is made to demi-couture standards and almost entirely by hand. The numbered tape suggests that it would have been a custom ordered piece. Excellent condition

Full lined in a fine black tissue silk. Hand finished throughout. The jacket has three hook and eye near the top of the neck and the skirt closes with back hand set zipper. Hook and eye closure at the waist band above the zipper. Light padding in the shoulders of the jacket and pockets along the sides of the skirt.

Jacket
Sleeves: 22.5"
Shoulders: 16"
Bust: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 20" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 23.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 43" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3728

Photo credits: (1) F/W 1981 Chanel Runway Collection.  /  (2-3) Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon.   /  (4-6) Sarah Catharine Paulson in our Chanel suit attends the Costume Designer Guild Awards 2019, Styling by Karla Welch

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.