This is an incredible example of Karl Lagerfeld's Haute Couture work. I am so glad this was a runway piece because it was almost impossible to photo correctly on the dress form. The elaborate sleeves that you see coming out from under the jacket are actually separate pieces altogether. You can see on the runway shots how beautifully they sit on an actual arm. My client opted for a more sleek jacket that did not take her in it at the waist as much as the runway look did and a more classic trouser. If you preferred that cinched in waist look you could easily belt the jacket. The simpler silhouette of this jacket allows for more versatility and styling. Sarah Mower said on her review of the show that; ‘It was pure Chanel, crystallized to a point of perfection only witnessed in haute couture…. Karl Lagerfeld began this mostly black-and-white collection with a new treatment of the Chanel suit…. These were paired with flat white go-go boots, which were not referenced from the sixties, but from a pair Coco (always ahead of her time) was wearing in a photograph from the decade before. That allusion and others demonstrate just how deftly Lagerfeld—Chanel historian par excellence—marshals his knowledge. He sprinkles the camellias, the satin bows, the organdy collars, and the bound edges so lightly that they become playful thrills—not belabored underscorings of theme or "brand identity."…. Lagerfeld reinvents the house signatures to pique the fantasies of today's young woman—and that he does just beautifully.’ 

The lines of this suit are crisp and sharp and the tailoring is immaculate. This is sharply contrasted with the dandified collar and arm pieces. It is incredible to have the full suit. This set includes the jacket, pants, inner top, collar and both arm pieces. The suit is made from a fine black wool that is light in weight and has a slight texture. It is just heavy enough to hold the shape beautifully. The jacket is cut to have a slight oversize feel through the body. The shoulders are shaped and the sleeves fall to just past the elbow. There is no collar. The neckline comes down the front in a simple V and then it zips to close down the remainder of the front. Two sleek little pockets are stacked on top of each other on either side of the waist for some detailing. It is cut to be more straight through the body and then flares out slightly at the hem, falling to just past the hip. The pants are classic and simple in their cut. They are flat fronted and cut to taper down to the ankles. A sharp fold runs down the front and the back of each leg. The inside of the suit is as immaculate as the outside and it is entirely made by hand. Every stitch is perfection. Under that goes a little sleeveless ivory silk top with a small neat collar. The top is easy fitting through the body. The top three buttons are finished with rhinestones and enamel and then the rest of the buttons are hidden under a flap of silk. Three additional pieces come with the suit. The first is a detachable silk organdy collar that goes around the neck and adds a romantic flounce with a large soft bow and ties. This gives the suit an unexpected touch of drama. Next is a pair of detachable sleeves. The sleeves are also made out of the same silk organdy as the collar and slip on the lower arm. Both those and the collar have a nod to the regency era when this type of sleeve and collar were all the rage. The sleeves are finished with a row of those beautiful buttons and the ends are ruffled. Every piece has been entirely made by hand and all the proper Chanel couture labels and numbered tapes are present. I love that with this one set you have so many pieces to mix and match with other things you own. It allows you to be able to sprinkle a bit of vintage Haute Couture throughout your wardrobe. This is a rare opportunity to own a piece of true couture by one of the most important designers of our lifetime. Excellent condition with a minor note below. 

The jacket and pants are hand lined in a fine black silk. The jacket closes with a hidden zipper under the front panel of fabric. The pockets appear to be functional and all four still have their original tacking in place. The pants zip to close with a hidden set side zipper. The toppings to close at the front. The collar snaps into place and the sleeves slip onto the arm with functional buttons running down the cuffs. The edges of the collar and cuffs have intentional raw edges. I see one small area of breakage in the silk on the edge of one cuff. Please see the photo after all of the label shots. I see one rhinestone missing off one button on each cuff and one on the top. All of the pieces are made and finished by hand to couture standards. Proper couture labels present with couture tape are present on all pieces but the sleeves. Sourced from the original couture client 

Jacket
Sleeves: 18"
Shoulders: 15.5"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 34.5" from neck to head 

Pant
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 39" from waist to hem with 1.5" turned under
Inseam: 28.5" from inner seam to hem
Rise: 15.5" from back waist to inner seam

Top
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24" from neck to head 

Collar
14" around and the snaps could be adjusted up or down a bit if needed

Cuffs
Length: 13" including the extended cuff, 9" without
10" around the upper edge and narrows to 7" around the wrist

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4263

Reference Photos/Video: Spring 2006 Chanel Couture Runway, Look 9. Model: Svetlana.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is the final Haute Couture Chanel piece for now from the collection that I have been handling for a client and this last dress is gorgeous. It is another amazing example of Karl Lagerfeld's Haute Couture work for the house. The photos on the dress form are not doing it justice at all and we were very pleased to find the runway references for it so that you can see how it sits on the body. Like most Couture pieces it needs an actual body in it to truly come to life. You can see in the runway shots how beautifully the dress is on and the video gives you a better idea of how it moves. It feel infinitely Chanel in every way. Sarah Mower said on her review of this collection that ‘With his sharp knack for synthesizing the mood of the moment into the spirit of Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld came up with a couture statement that might neatly be labeled "mod medieval."… (it) showcased Lagerfeld's deft handling of new proportions. It started with a narrow, molded shoulder line falling to dresses with a slight flare in the hem’ a description which almost perfectly describes this exact dress. Karl himself said that "This Collection is a play with proportions. It's the movement that counts, a silhouette for the city in for modern life. A strong attitude, kind of visual aggressivity."

This is magnificent dress. It is one long sheath dress that falls to the floor in a smooth column. That minimalist black column of silk is offset by the shoulder area that is done in an ivory white silk. This was then completely covered by hand in a dense application of elongated white paillettes that are set onto the silk at only one of their ends. This allows them to move slightly as you move. There is a small neat collar that is also detailed with the paillettes. The shoulders are shaped so that they curve perfectly over the shoulder. It feels very restrained and refined. This cut through the dirt was presented throughout the entire collection and was one of the key components. The ivory silk runs across the top of your shoulders and then is separated from the rest of the dress by a silk satin band. A row of tightly spaced buttons start where the black silk begins and run down past the waist. The dress falls from the shoulders in a smooth line that skims over the bust, waist and hips, even billowing outwards a bit before narrowing down to the hem. The bottom of the skirt is unusual and has that Karl twist to it. The hem is finished with wide strip of the same black silk satin to pick up on the band used across the shoulders. Then at the back there is a second a row of tightly spaced silk covered buttons that run down to the hem. Under that is a panel of silk attached inside the dress that extends down and past the hem. This panel is cut on a curve. If you leave the buttons at the back buttoned it creates an almost hobble skirt effect with that panel peeking out from under and if you leave the buttons open at the back then that panel has tremendous movement as you walk. You can get a better idea of this on the video. On the runway it was styled with a large detachable bow and jeweled brooch and sleeveless gloves. This would be easy to re-create style wise if you love the full runway look. The dress has been entirely made by hand and is labelled with its proper Chanel Haute Couture label. This is a rare opportunity to own a piece of true couture by one of the most important designers of our lifetime. Excellent condition

The dress is hand lined in a black silk and closes with the buttons at the front. It is hand finished to couture standards. Its proper couture label is present. Sourced from the original couture client. It is meant be loose and easy through the body

Waist: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 55.5" from top of shoulder to hem and the back panel adds another 6"

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4262

Reference Photos/Video: Fall 2006 Chanel Couture Runway, Look 51.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This very rare runway documented Givenchy Haute Couture suit is from the Fall 2000 collection and is the twin of the one that walked the runway. This is from the small period of time that Alexander McQueen was the Creative Director for the house. He succeeded John Galliano as head designer in 1996 at the age of 27. McQueen subsequently left the label in 2001 when his contract ended citing his creativity was constrained. His appointment there had been tumultuous from the start. Hubert de Givenchy had describe his appointment it as a "total disaster” and McQueen had shot back that the founder was “irrelevant”. Of course now in hindsight we see these collections for the genius that they were. They still had that rebellious spark running through them that McQueen is known for and these are now a cherished part of his history. They also showcased his ability to navigate the world of Haute Couture. He has said in interviews that he did walk away from the label with far greater knowledge about the techniques of couture and the process of couture, which of course benefited how own label greatly. 

On the runway this suit was shown with a silk top underneath with a flounced collar. This one came comes with its matching vest making it a proper three piece suit for a strong plays on menswear. There is much talk about the rebellion of McQueen and I feel like with the dramatic sculpted hairstyle that he styled the suit with and sending a model down the runway with a lit cigarette shows that spirit. When was known for his remarkable tailoring and this suit is no exception. It's made from a classic pinstriped men's wool suiting in a black. The pinstripes are created by running a gold toned thread vertically through the fabric. The fabric has a slight texture to it which adds to the beauty of the suit. The jacket is an incredible feat of construction. This is where McQueen's genius shines and having the couture atelier at his disposal just makes it stronger. Sleeves are cut long with four functional buttons at each cuff. The buttons are black enamel with gold edging. The shoulders are shaped with internal padding. The front lapel is done in a muted gold silk satin. It comes down the front in a tuxedo reminiscent shape and I love that the inner edge of the jacket is lined in that same gold silk. So if you open the jacket you get that flash of colour all the way to the bottom. The jacket is shaped with an incredibly masterful hand. The shape is a result of multiple tiny precise seams that run from just under the bust to the hem all the way around the jacket. They are done so precisely that at first glance you might mistake them for the pinstriping, but upon closer inspection you see that each is a tiny little perfect vertical seam. Each is tailored to perfection to bring the waist in and give the jacket shape. There is light inner padding and shaping underneath around the hip. A flap pocket sit on each hip and it closes with two matching gold and black buttons at the front. The vest underneath is made from the same gold as the lapel of the jacket and it is an almost straight replica of a classic men's vest. It buttons at the front with silk covered buttons in a matching gold. The pants are fabulous and are very unusual. They have a flat front with no band around the waist and are cut to sit slightly low on the hip. A classic McQueen signature. There is a sharp fold running down the front and back of the pants. The lower half of the pant leg is split to the knee up the back and then that split is edged with panels of the same gold silk of the collar and vest. This gives a slight flare and is an incredible detail. The upper part of the jacket has a slightly oversized fit and you can see on the runway shots that this is intentional. This is a remarkable example of his skills as a tailor and his time at Givenchy. Excellent condition with one small note below

All three pieces are hand lined. The jacket and pants in a fine black silk and the vest in a matching gold coloured silk. The jacket and vest button at the front to close and the pants zip to close. All the work is entirely done by hand to haute couture standards. I see some small faint marks on the lapel and front of the vest. This may come out with additional cleaning. It has been cleaned but not aggressively. It otherwise looks to have been worn very little if at all. Please see the two photos after the label shot. The pockets in the jacket are still tax shot. It is remarkable. The proper Haute Couture labels and handwritten tape are present.

Jacket
Sleeves: 23.5"
Shoulders: 16"
Bust: to 22.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 26.5" from neck to head 

Pant
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 43" waist to hem
Inseam: 33.5" from inner seam to hem
Rise: 13.5" from back waist to inner seam

Vest
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 22" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4261

Reference Photos/Video: Fall 2000 Givenchy Couture.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.