I Have a Question
- The set is from the Fall 1966 Chanel Haute Couture collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of Coco Chanel.
- We found a reference photo of a suit that has the same cut and similar detailing from Fall 1966 but we have also included reference photos of some similar pieces. Coco particularly favoured this type of cut with these metallic fabrics between approximately 1965 and 1969. Seen after the photo of the suit that is the closest to this one is a Fall 1965 suit shown in the book 'Gabrielle Chanel Fashion Manifesto by Thames & Hudson', followed by similar pieces featured in Vogue in 1968 and 1969 respectively.
- The set would have been made by hand in the Paris atelier.
- Both pieces are made from a light in weight metallic silk lame that has a silver thread woven through it.
- This is a gorgeous set with a more box cut jacket and a matching sleeveless dress. It is always nice to have multiple pieces because the opportunity to mix a match with things that you already own just makes it that much more versatile.
- The edges of the jacket are finished with a thick edging of silver metallic thread that has been braided. A band of the green silk is looped and woven through the braiding.
- That braided detail runs around the neck, down the front of the jacket and around the hem with pieces going up the sides to create faux side vents. They also circle each cuff and run up partway above the wrist.
- The dress is cut in a sleek and simple shift that skims over the body and flares out as it nears the hem. It skims over bust and it is generously cut through the waist with a slightly dropped seam.
- A long vertical seam runs from the top of the shoulder to the hem on each side of the front. A bow sits on the top of one side. The long seams on that side hides where the dress closes with a series of hooks and snaps.
- On both sides the seams have a panel of fabric on either side of that creates an opening and inside that opening there is a wide braiding of the same silver that is seen on the jacket.
- The vent of the dress is very clever. It is hidden along one side of those vertical seams and there is one in the front and one on the back on opposite side at the back.
- The jacket slips over the dress with long sleeves and a collarless neckline. It has no closures and is meant to just float over the inner dress.
- There is a signature Chanel chain in gold set around the inner hem of the jacket.
- Both pieces are fully lined in an early slightly textured silk jersey feeling fabric that is completely handset. The dress closes with a front series of hook and eye under one of the the front vertical seams as described above. The jacket has no closures. A gold chain is hand set around the inner hem of the jacket. You can see tiny round circles of hand stitching where the lining has been lightly tacked to the exterior to hold it perfectly in place. An amazing little Couture detail. I see some slight grubbiness and very faint marks on the inside of the jacket near one side and around the inner collar and there is evidence that the dress was let out on the seams of the upper bodice on the back of the dress. Please see the photos after the label shot. These are all minor but mentioned for accuracy.
- There is no size tag present because it is true Couture. Please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent overall condition with the minor notes above.
Jacket
Sleeves: 19.5"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust-hem: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 20.5" from neck to hem
Dress
Bust: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 39" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5814
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
george halley
Spring 1967 George Halley Couture Pale Pink Dress w Rhinestones, Hand Emroidery & Flower Detailing
I Have a Question
- The dress is from the Spring 1967 George Halley collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of George Halley.
- The twin of this dress in a different colour resides in the permanent collection of the Met Museum. Each dress would have been individual individually ordered by a client and it's possible that both the one that I have and the one in The Met are the only ones that exist in those colours.
- Halley was one of the great American Couturiers and he started his career working for Charles James. When he opened his own atelier in 1966 he was well on his way to fame. He won the Coty Award in 1968 and his work is on par with couture. He is one of my personal favourite designers.
- Women's Wear Daily called him 'a designer in a lovely world of his own'.
- This is an absolutely outstanding dress that shows the extreme level of detail that was being done in this era.
- The dress would have been made entirely by hand in his workshops.
- It is not perfect but it's small flaws are forgivable for what it is. Please read the entire listing carefully.
- The dress is made from a soft pink silk netting that tops an inner layer of a pale pink silk. The netted layer has an elaborate hand embroidered leaf and flower pattern done on a silver-black metal thread.
- Added over that to cover the entire surface of the dress are hand cut silk ans velvet flowers, prong set rhinestones, iridescent beads set by hand and tiny silver sequins.
- The front has a wide scooped neckline that is completely embellished all around the edges with clusters of the iridescent, beads and rhinestones. The same elaborate border circles around the edge of each sleeve.
- The shoulders are soft and the sleeves are capped so that they poof out slightly in a delightful shape.
- The bodice skims over you to a high empire cut just under the bust. There is an attached ivory velvet band that covers the seam there. This ends in a pretty and romantic bow at the back.
- The pattern on the bodice is set closer together with a more dense application of all the detailing. Once the skirt begins, the pattern is spread out slightly more to accommodate the width of the skirt.
- There is a full built-in well-made and structured underskirt made of pink silk and then the net skirt top layer sits over that.
- The top net layer is very full and there are many yards of fabric that make it up. It is elaborately detailed all the way around.
- The hem of the skirt is finished with a border of the velvet hand-cut flowers that have a prong set rhinestone at their centres and the iridescent beads spreading outward on the petals.
- All of the detailing has been applied to the dress by hand. It would have taken hundreds of hours to accomplish this and it is on par with true Couture.
- The workmanship on the dress is spectacular and I have included a lot of close-ups for you to see. It is even more amazing in person.
- The dress closes with a hand set back zipper and the bow snaps and hooks to close. The dress is hand lined in a pale pink silk. There is overall grubbiness/light discoloration and small marks on the velvet band and bow. It could be easily un-tacked and replaced. I see slight changes in colour along some of the edges of the inner pink silk lining, grubbiness along the hem and on some of the velvet flowers. There is some splitting of the silk along the edge of the inner hem. These are all minor overall but mentioned for accuracy
- There was no size tag present. Please go buy the measurements listed below.
- Great condition with the notes above
Sleeves: 7.5" and the opening is 10" around
Inset shoulders: 13.5"
Bust: to 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under the bust: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 10" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 54" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5808
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
ossie clark
Rare 1969 Ossie Clark Documented Wide Leg Pant & Tie Front Overcoat Set w Celia Birtwell Print
I Have a Question
- This incredible set dates to 1969.
- It was made under the creative direction of Ossie Clark.
- At this stage in Ossie's journey each piece would have been made individually. The jacket on its own was photoed for Vogue UK that summer and it also appears in the book "Celia Birtwell" by Celia Birtwell. The V&A museum holds a dress version and that same dress version appears in the book "Ossie Clark 1965|74" by Judith Watt.
- I personally have never seen another set like this one available for sale in the 20 years I have been doing this. It is an exceedingly rare set.
- The set was loved and worn. It is not perfect but it presents fabulously once on the body. Its value is largely based on its rarity and special place in Ossie Clark's history.
- Both pieces are made out of printed rayon crepe with one of Celia Birtwell's prints.
- The print is an early appearance of one of Celia Birtwell's most famous. In the book "Celia Birtwell" they describe a yellow version of the same print as a "splashy large Candyflower - a flower enclosed in a swirly motif - one of her most iconic designs.". That same book noted that "Celia's prints brought Ossie's designs to life. The clever way the patterns combine different scales through the eye from one part of the dress to another."
- The check that you see was also developed by Celia and it offered a graphic contrast to the softness of the flower prints that she was doing in this era.
- The pants have a flat banded front and they zip at the front. They fall over the hips and then widen out to be incredibly wide pant legs. Each leg is a full 29 inches around by it's hem.
- The base colour on the pants is a bright clear red and then Celia's flower print in black, white and a deep blue cover the pants entirely.
- Over that is the most incredible piece that is kind of a combination of a jacket and a top. It slips onto wear and then has ties that extend out from the front and tie just under the bust to hold it in place.
- The collar is a classic wide pointed and notched collar that you see in this era.
- The front bodice, the back, the collar and the tie are all made out of the blue and ivory check. That same fabric is also used for the bottom portion of the sleeves. A wide band sits under the bust that made of the flower pattern and you see the flower pattern at the top of each arm. The shoulders have a slight puff to them which is more apparent once it is on an actual body.
- Under that the jacket falls all the way to just a touch above the hem of the pants. It is completely open at the front and it widens out quite a bit as it near it's hem.
- This open front and extra fabric as it opens gives it fantastic movement around you as you move.
- When it is worn over top of the pants, the effect of the print on print is just fantastic.
- This is an extremely rare and early piece of Ossie and Celia's partnership.
- Both pieces are unlined. The pants zip to close at the front and the top ties at the waist as described above. Both pieces have been worn and loved over the years. There is light fading and some small minor marks/grubbiness throughout on both pieces. I have photoed some of the worst for you to see. There is fading around the bum area of the pants and I have photoed that for you. Please see the photos after the label shot. This fabric does fade over time so it is part wear and part natural patina. It presents fantastically once on the body.
- The top is tagged a UK 12 and the pants have no size tag. Please go by the measurements listed below.
- Great condition
Top/jacket
Sleeves: 22" and they are 14" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam but can be tied looser at the front to get more room.
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam but can be tied looser at the front to get more room.
Hips: open
Bodice: 13.5" from neck to top of the band around the waist
Total length: 60" from neck to hem
Pants
Waist: 12.75" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 42" from waist to hem
The inseam is 31" and the gusset is 15.5"from the top of the back waist to the inseam
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5791
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
I Have a Question
- This piece dates to 1967 which we know from the editorial shot we found of it.
- It was made under the creative direction of Donald Brooks
- I love finding Donald Brooks pieces. They are very well made and his main line pieces like this one are especially fabulous. Brooks launched his main line label in 1964. He only designed for a very short time, closing his business in 1973. He had a secondary boutique line that he started in 1971 that also closed in 1973. This jumpsuit is from the original main line which gives us that time period between 1964-1973 for its date.
- At first glance you appear to be wearing a dress but it does actually have a jumpsuit underneath all of those layers of lace ruffles.
- Everything falls from one shoulder which leaves the other shoulder bare.
- The bust is cut to skim over you to the waist. The waist is defined by a brown silk bow that wraps around and has a hidden hook underneath the bow.
- Wrapping around the bodice is the first lace ruffle that is cut so it is slightly longer on the side of the shoulder.
- Under the waist there are three layers of lace that run down the length of the jumpsuit. A 17" panel wraps all the way around the hip area and then there are two more layers of lace on each leg. They are also very wide. When they are laid out flat they are more than a full circle around.
- The jumpsuit underneath has a simple cut that skims over you, comes in at the waist, and then curves out and over the hips. The pant legs are straight and wide with just the slightest of narrowing by the end of each leg.
- The body of the jumpsuit underneath the lace panels are covered in a black lace. The lace added to the jumpsuit gives it amazing movement when you move.
- The jumpsuit is full lined in a black silk and closes with a side zipper. The panel of lace on the bodice and the top panel below the waist both snap over the zipper to close. The belt wraps and closes with both hook and snaps. Hand finished throughout.
- There is no size tag present. Please go by the measurements below.
- Excellent condition
Bust: to 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15.5" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 58" from top of shoulder to hem
Inseam: 27"
Torso: 32" from top of shoulder to inner seam
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5772
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
I Have a Question
- This is an original Mexican sundress that dates to the 1960s or maybe even a little earlier.
- These were made by hand by local artisans for the tourist market. I think this one is one of the prettiest I have ever seen and I think I will be sad to see it go once it sells.
- I love that it has its original label inside as the label is as pretty and unique as the dress itself.
- These lovely little hand embroidered cotton Mexican dresses are works of art in my opinion and this one is an amazing example.
- The base fabric is a crisp black cotton that has been top stitched with little vertical pin tuck seams that cover the entire dress. These add visual detail and also help to shape the dress.
- Distinct bands of hand embroidered yarn flowers run around each sleeve, the band around the waist and above the lower hem of the skirt. That is what adds the bright pops of colour to the dress that you see. It is incredible.
- The neck line is squared off at both the front and back and the shoulders are soft.
- Each sleeve is cut so that it fall straight from the shoulder to the embroidered band and then underneath that it has these amazing cuffs that expand out to become incredibly full. Each is a full circle all the way around if you lay them out flat.
- A wide band of lace edges the bottom of the sleeve. You see lace used throughout the dress in between the different portions and parts of the pattern.
- The lace is all placed strategically so you get a little glimpse of skin underneath but are still properly covered. It is fantastic.
- The bodice skims to the band of embroidery at the waist and then the skirt sits under that. It gradually widens out to be very full by the time it reaches the hem.
- Everything about this dress is beautiful and it is rare to find one that is still so crisp and perfect. It is a beautiful dress.
- Unlined and closes with a painted metal zipper at the back. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.
- There is no size tag present. Please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition
Sleeves: 22" and they are 14.5" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 14-15"
Bust: 16.5-17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 26" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 13" from top of shoulder to the top of the 3.5" band around the waist
Total length: 58" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5731
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
tiziani
Documented 1960s Tiziani Couture by Karl Lagerfeld Peach Silk Plunge Dress w Matching Feather Cape
I Have a Question
- Note that due to new customs regulations this piece can only ship to a Canadian address. If you need assistance with this please touch base.
- This is a fantastically well documented piece Tiziani couture set that dates to the 1960s.
- It would have been made under the creative direction of Karl Lagerfeld and is a very rare example of his work there especially with the amount of documentation on it.
- We have included the digital copy of the original sketch done by Karl along with photos of the dress on a model with Tiziani when it was originally produced. I do have modern photos of the dress on someone and will share those upon request.
- The inner tag on the dress is numbered and handwritten and then it has its Tiziana tag on the cape. I was told that this is the actual original sample dress and came from the archives.
- I posted a video of the dress on my Instagram back in 2023 when it was still in my personal archives. You can see that here and it speaks more about its history and you can see the dress on video.
- The dress is made out of a peach silk chiffon that is heavily embellished around the V neckline. The coat is made out of a slightly deeper coral peach silk that is completely covered in hand dyed soft peach feathers.
- The dress has a V at the front and the neckline has a band of embellishment that mixes silver tube beads, peach embroidery, sequins and seed beads, with prong set rhinestones. This follows the neckline at the front and then runs across the top of each shoulder. At the back it creates a wide band across the upper shoulders.
- It skims over the bust to a higher set waist seam. From there it skims over the hips and the skirt falls to the floor widening out slightly as it goes.
- The dress is fully lined in a matching peach silk and it is entirely made by hand with all of the inner stitches finished by hand. This would be considered Alta Moda couture with its level of finishes
- The cape sits over that and comes down to just past the waist at the front and then falls around you on the sides and back in this incredible sweep of hand dyed soft peach feathers.
- The feathers are all set onto a silk organza backdrop by hand and they overlap each other all the way down the length of the cape. The collar of the cape is finished with the same hand beading you see on the dress.
- Both the dress and cape are a touch paler in colour than how they shot. They are more like the colour shots added here.
- The dress is fully lined in a peach hand-finished silk and zips to close at the side. The outer layer of the bodice snaps to close over that. The cape is a single layer of silk organza with the feathers attached directly to it. The cape is also completely finished by hand. It hooks to close at the collar. There is perhaps the tiniest bit of grubbiness to the hem of the dress. Some small areas of missing embroidery / beads. Some of the organza has shattered near the top of the cape on the interior side. I have included photos here after the label shot. It can be worn as is but if you want me to have some reinforcement added you can touch base with me before I ship it and I will have my seamstress add that for you. Please see the photos after the label shot.
- There are no size tags so please go by the listed measurements below.
- Excellent condition with the note on the cape lining above.
Dress
Bust: 16-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 13" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 59.5" from top of shoulder to hem
Cape
Neck: 15.5" around
Total length: it falls to approximately 17" at the shortest point of the front and the back falls to approximately 61"
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD5544
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
adolfo
Incredible 1960s Adolfo Black Silk Chiffon One Shoulder Dress w Extensive Hand Bead & Sequin Detailing
I Have a Question
- This incredibally detailed dress dates to the 1960s.
- It was made under the creative direction of Adolfo Faustino Sardiña, who professionally known as Adolfo.
- Adolfo started his career under Balenciaga and, like Halston, he was a successful milliner before opening his own fashion house. He became know for his Chanel inspired suiting and beaded pieces.
- Adolfo often did custom work for his clients who ranged from the Duchess of Windsor to Jackie Kennedy Onassis, Gloria Vanderbilt and Nancy Reagan. He even won a Coty Award in 1969.
- The base fabric is a fine black silk chiffon over a black silk and then it is lined in a silk and then onto that are thousands of beads and sequins.
- The extensive bead and sequin work is set onto the silk in a gorgeous design that runs over the dress from top to bottom. The designs are clustered and the work sits up and off the silk for a slight 3D effect. All of the work is done by hand.
- It drapes and sits on the body in a very balanced way despite the elaborate work on it.
- The cut of this dress is a very flattering one shoulder silhouette. The one side curves up and over the shoulder and then from there it curves gracefully across the back. The shoulder strap is an extension of all of the design, so there is no break to the eye.
- The edges of the neck, down and around the one arm opening, and all the way around the hem are all finished with tightly, spaced bead work that is incredible.
- It skims over the bust and there is no seam at the waist. Instead, it is shaped to curve in slightly for shape and then it curves back out and over the hips.
- The dress falls to the floor from there and the skirt widens out a touch as it nears the floor. The hem is on a slight angle and as it curves up to the one side, there is a slit runs up one side for a flash of leg to show as you move or sit.
- I love the contrast of the silver white beads against the black. They catch the light with your slightest movement and from every angle. It is just a spectacular dress.
- The dress is fully lined in a black silk and closes with a side zipper. Hand finishes throughout. There is a tiny bare area between the beading on the shoulder and two small areas around the arm. Please see the photos after the label shot. Otherwise it looks as if it was worn very little if at all.
- There is no size tag present so please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition.
Bust: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 60" from top of the shoulder to hem and the slit is 22" from the hem up.
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5489
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
balmain
Beautiful Late 1980s Pierre Balmain Pastel Blue & Yellow Feather Light Strapless Silk Dress w Full Skirt
I Have a Question
- This is a phenomenal dress by Pierre Balmain from the late 1980s - early 1990s.
- At this point in history the Couture line was called simply Pierre Balmain and the main ready-to-wear line was called Ivoire de Balmain. Depending if it was late 1980s or early 90s, the creative Director would have been either Erik Mortensen (up 1989) or Alistair Blair (who joined in 1990 to over see the RTW line while Erik continued Couture).
- The dress is made from a beautiful silk that is extremely light in weight. When this is on it is almost like wearing nothing.
- Onto the silk is an over-sized check pattern that mixes pastel yellow with shades of soft blues. Some parts have an almost iridescent pale green finish to them and there are also muted deep golds and taupe.
- It is strapless and fitted at the waist. The lower skirt widens out considerably from there to the hem. There are yards and yards of silk making up the skirt.
- The back is cut longer than the front so you get this beautiful sweeping feel behind you. The silk that was used is so very light in weight and it is all cut on the bias which allows it to float and moves around you with your slightest movement.
- I love the way there is extra fabric built-in at the back. The fabric wraps over itself for a few inches to hook into the inside the waist and also on the outer part of the waist. This adds extra fabric to the gorgeous sweep of volume of the back skirt.
- Inside the bodice is a lightly boned and cupped inner corset that holds the dress in place. It is made out of the same fabric. The rest of the skirt is unlined. The dress closes at the back with a hidden set zipper and an inner waist stay hooks to close. The silk at the very back of the skirt hooks over itself as described above.
- It is tagged a vintage Balmain 36
- Excellent condition
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 9.5" from top of bodice to inner waist
Total length: 55.5" from top of bodice to front hem and the back extends another 14" beyond that.
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5385
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
arnold scaasi
Incredible 1960s Arnold Scaasi Couture Pink Coral 3D Yarn Covered Silk Skirt w Ribbon Waist
I Have a Question
- The skirt dates to the 1960s and is from Scassi's main label
- It was made under the creative direction of Arnold Scaasi
- Scaasi was born Arnold Isaacs in Montreal and the name Scassi is simply his own surname in reverse. He apprenticed at the house of Paquin and then worked with the legendary Charles James. In 1964 he opened own couture salon. He dressed Hollywood stars like Lauren Bacall, Diahann Carroll and Elizabeth Taylor along with several first ladies. He even once bragged that he refused to give Jackie Kennedy clothes for free. He was the man behind the scandalous 1969 Barbra Streisand sheer trouser outfit that she collected her Oscar in, and he was presented with the Council of Fashion Designers of America Lifetime Achievement Award in 1996. In 2010, The Boston Museum of Fine Arts, who hold the bulk of his archives, launched an exhibit of his work titled "Arnold Scaasi: American Couturier"
- Pieces from his main label were made to order and done to demi and couture standards.
- There are certain pieces that you come across that seem to go beyond just a piece of clothing and start to belong to the category of being a piece of art. This skirt qualifies. It is one of the most unusual and exceptional pieces I have seen.
- It is almost camp in feel and yet it has an incredible craftsmanship at the same time.
- It is made from looped tufts of wool in a pink, coral, deep burgundy and pale purple, that are independently attach by embroidery to a silk ribbon background. That silk ribbon is then sewed together and stacked row by row with a tiny gap left between each row. This creates this amazing sub-texture underneath the yarn.
- The yarn detailing is set horizontally and they puff out from the skirt so that it has a 3D feel.
- At the waist is a wide red grosgrain ribbon that sits in a bow at one side.
- Under the nipped in waist the skirt falls on an angle to widen out quite a bit by the time it reaches the hem. It somehow manages to stay both soft and feel structured at the same time.
- It is not unwieldy to wear but it does have the feel of substance.
- Inside it is hand lined in a fine red silk.
- Fully lined by hand in a fine red silk and closes at the back with a zipper and then hook and eye at the banded waist. All the work is done by hand and all of the yarn has been done by hand and applied to the silk ribbon behind it.
- There was no size tag present so please go by the measurements listed below
- Excellent condition
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 36" from waist to front hem, 38" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5267
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Spring 1961 Christian Dior by Marc Bohan Debut Haute Couture Collection Jacket & Skirt Suit Set
I Have a Question
- The twin of this set was presented for the Spring 1961 Dior Haute Couture collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of Marc Bohan.
- This incredible set is from the debut Haute Couture collection of Marc Bohan.
- It has the added province of being documented and we have included a reference photo of its twin from that era.
- The book Dior, Catwalk talks about the reaction to this first collection by Bohan; "Thundering applause, led by the Duchess of Windsor, rolled through the elegant grey and white salons of the House of Dior, the happy ending to the suspense story of the fashion year. At stake was the future dominance of Dior, and the career of designer Mark Bohan.
- The Chicago Tribune hailed him as being "Mister Dior, the third".
- The New York Times stated "the shouting, clapping, surging mob at the press show cause chaos in the elegant salon. Bohan was pushed up against the boiserie, kissed, mauled and congratulated. Chairs were toppled. Champagne glasses were broken. People were knocked down. It was a complete triumph for the designer".
- The book goes on to state that; Bohan called the collection the "Slim Line". It was a streamlined take on the original "New Look". He revisited the day suit with wide cut jackets and low waisted flared skirts fitted at the hips. The Times declared it "a success from the appearance of the first model and worthy in the tradition of the great maestro himself. And Women's Wear Daily wrote three months after the collection was shown that "the Bohan flare is everywhere. Bohan has done the impossible. He is a big commercial success and respected by the fashion intellect."
- Both pieces were made entirely by hand in the Paris atelier.
- The set is exceptional and is an excellent investment piece from an important debut collection in the label's history.
- Both pieces are made from a very high end silk twill that has been hand dyed to a pale tan mixed with abstract partial striping running over it in white.
- The jacket has a loose and oversized fit in a soft boxed cut.
- The shoulders are soft and extend into wide cut sleeves that sit to just past the elbow.
- The cut of the jacket is very unusual. It has a row of large mother of pearl buttons that are mainly decorative. Only the very bottom button is functional and closes. The others are meant to stay open above that.
- The button holes on the other side of the opening do not open all the way through. You can see in the photo of the model that hers is the same and that this was done intentionally.
- It was shown belted in the reference photo and I have added a wide silk sash to have the same feel and add shape.
- The skirt curves over the hips and flares out in a series of flat pleats all the way around. I took a photo if the interior of the skirt so you can see the incredible workmanship.
- When you stand still the skirt lays more flat and smooth but when you move you get an incredible burst of movement and volume.
- Both pieces are entirely finished by hand to Haute Couture standards. It is very chic and elegant yet still feels edgy. An amazing find.
- The jacket is fully hand lined in a matching silk and the panels of the skirt are individually backed in a hand set white silk organza. The jacket closes with the bottom button as described above. There is a hidden snap to help hold it perfectly in place. The skirt closes with hook & eye at the waist and hidden snaps below that. It is completely made by hand to Haute Couture standards. The proper numbered couture label is present. There are some natural variations and lines in the silk that is inherent to this type of fabric and should not be considered a flaw. I have added two close-ups before the label shot for you to get an idea of the fabric detailing. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.
- There is no size tag present since it is true couture and was made to order. Please go by the measurements listed below
- Excellent condition
Jacket
Dropped shoulders: 16-17"
Bust - waist: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom hem: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 24.5" from neck to hem
Skirt
Waist: to 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 27" from waist to hem with 2" turned under the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4484
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
Era The 1960s











