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This is a spectacular dress that has no label and could very well be a one off. I can't help but think that it was inspired by the stunning dress worn by Hedy Lamarr in the 1941 film Ziegfeld Girl. This would make a spectacular event dress and would absolutely be a phenomenal piece for a bride.
The upper bodice of the dress is made from a deep nude coloured netting done in a double layer. Onto this is a white netting that has gold flowers woven through it. Rhinestones are scattered over the entire bodice and run down and around the waist. The neckline is made from four flowers cut out and wrapped around the neck. It is meant to skim over the bust and waist and then the skirt falls from under that to the floor. The skirt widens out substantially as it nears the hem which gives you beautiful movement when you walk and move. The entire lower hem of the skirt is finished with more of the same rhinestones that are scattered across the bodice. It is gorgeous. The sleeves are spectacular. Each sleeve falls from the shoulder all the way to past the hem of the dress. They are cut very wide and are open to give them a cape feel. Each one is finished along the bottom hem with a row of ostrich feathers in a deep ivory. This is a clever way to add some weight to the bottom of the sleeve and also add spectacular movement. When I say they are wide by the bottom of the hem, I mean it. I measured and each one is just under 8 feet across. Each sleeve is detailed with more of the rhinestones along with more cut outs of the gold and white flowers set along the vertical lengths on each side of the sleeve. It is beautifully elaborate and over the top. This is the type of piece that you will only ever find in vintage. It is spectacular. Excellent condition
The dress is lined in an ivory silky rayon through the skirt and a the same nude netting through the bodice. It closes with a zipper at the back. The zipper has a slight sticky feel to it, but it is original and works perfectly fine so I have left it. Otherwise it appears to have been worn very little.
Sleeves: 60" plus the feathers go past the hem a few inches
Shoulders: 16"
Bust: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: approx 15.5" from neck to waist
Total length: 59" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4918
Reference photos: Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon.
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I am always thrilled to find a really great Emilio Pucci piece. The truly great ones are getting very hard to find and this one is exceptional. By the 1960s, the time period that this dress is from, Pucci was a world-wide phenomenon. Hollywood stars like Marilyn Monroe, Sophia Loren and even Jackie Kennedy were huge fans. For all of the many attempts since to catapult the label back to the height of its glory, the days when Emilio himself oversaw the label and designed the prints will always be the most special to me. It is very rare to find documentation on these early pieces and to have that for this one makes it extra special.
This is one of the prettiest Pucci pieces I have ever had in the shop. It is a gorgeous combination of a pinks, ivory and soft pastels. These colors are combined in a beautiful curving and graphic design that sweeps over the entire jumpsuit. The cut is very flattering. The neckline curves in a slightly upward slope across the front and then the back curves down. There is a full inner bodice built into this one that is lightly boned and made out of a heavy almost grosgrain feeling fabric that sucks you in and holds the jumpsuit in place all around you. The waist is seamed and I have added a pretty pale, pastel dusty pink ribbon that will be sent with the jumpsuit. From there the pants flare out to the floor. Each leg opens up to have tremendous volume. They are fully through the upper leg and then the lower leg is finished with the bottom ruffle that is over 5 feet around the hem. The movement and drama that this creates when it's on is absolutely wonderful. I cannot gush enough about how fantastic the legs are on this jumpsuit. As is typical in a Pucci piece, he has used bands of a different printed silk to define the neckline and bottom hem on each pant leg. On this one, the borders are pretty little stripes made up of the main colours in the print. That combined with the way that he has pleated them to give it a bit of a ruffle feel is the perfect finishing flourish on the jumpsuit. It is very feminine but sexy at the same time. I absolutely love it. You will probably never see another one like this. It is exceptional. Excellent condition
Unlined through the body of the jumpsuit, and there is a built-in boned corset as described above through the bodice. It closes with two zippers, one that is on the inter corset and one that is on the exterior silk. An inner waist stay hooks to close.
Bust: 16-16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10" from top seam to waist + 2" for the top ruffle
Pants: 40" from the waist to the bottom of the ruffles at the ham, 42" to the back
Inseam: 28" and the gusset is 12.25" from back of waist to inner leg seam
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4907
Reference Photo: Emilio Pucci S/S 1969 "Capri", "Arcate" print. Photo Sandro Morriconi.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
thea porter
Rare 1969 Thea Porter Runway Embroidered Organza & Hand Screened Cotton Dress
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The twin of this dress appears in the book on Thea Porter's work that accompanied the exhibit on her work. The photo appears on page 73. The caption in the book notes that "Claudia Bruce wearing a peasant style dress in a Persian paisley print combined with Damascus fabric and a leather and feather headdress. Greeks Street, London, 1969.". It is so rare to find runway photos of her shows and to have all this extra information is fantastic. 1969 is also an interesting year to note because it is the year that she started to sell her designs at Giorgio Beverly Hills. It was said that when word got out that Thea had new things in the Girorgio boutique, women ran to be able to get a piece for themselves, they sold out that fast. This is the only one I have ever seen like this outside of that book photo. Given her extremely limited run on certain pieces it may in fact be the only other one that was made and exists. It is truly a very special piece.
The dress is a fantastic combination of fabrics and this was something that Thea excelled at. She had the ability to source these fantastic antique fabrics and then mix and match them to put them together in a way that you had never seen done before. The front panel combines a floral and paisley print with beautiful detailing between. It runs down the front in a long rectangle shape and then she curved it over the shoulders and ran another panel of it down the back. The rest of the dress is made out of a clay coloured silk organza that has a beautiful pattern hand embroidered over its surface. A little chain of white embroidery runs through that pattern for a little bit of a pop. At the end of each sleeve there is an insert of the cotton fabric. This is set in a wide band all around the cuffs with these little points running up into the sleeve. The shape of the dress is easy and comfortable to wear. It skims over the body and flares out slightly as it reaches the hem. Slits run up each side so you get a flash of leg when you walk. Each sleeve is fantastic. Each is a full and voluminous balloon type sleeve that puffs up extravagantly around each wrist. The collar on the dress is perhaps the best part. A tie loops through the front part only and for most of the shots I have tied it enough so that it scoops like it does in the runway shot. However, you can loosen the front up and that allows you to push the dress down the shoulders to expose a full expanse of bare skin across the top of the shoulders. It is phenomenal. This is a very rare example of her work and most likely you will never see one again. Excellent condition.
Unlined and slips over the head to wear. The front collar can be adjusted with the tie as described above. Each cuff has a snap to close. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. There are little bits of blue dye on the front and back panel that looks like it has run a touch but I believe this is inherent to this fabric and this may have been like that since the day it was made. I do not think it is a flaw, but rather a result of the fact that the fabric was hand screened. Tagged a vintage Thea Porter UK 10. The easy cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes.
Sleeves: approx 15" and will come up a touch when the cuff is closed. Each upper arm is 13.75" around
Shoulders: no true defined scene
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 54.5" from top of shoulder to hem with 2" turned under the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4899
Reference Photos: Claudia Bruce for Thea Porter. Greek Street, London, 1969. (2) From the book Thea Porter: Bohemian Chic.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
james galanos
Prettiest 1960s James Galanos Couture Black French Lace & Silk Cord Dress
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In 1951 a 27 year old James Galanos launched his first label called Galanos Originals. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. His ready-to-wear line was made close to couture standards and with a level of craftsmanship that was on par with the French couturiers. Galanos was a master cutter and draper and he used many couture techniques in his work. Grace Kelly was an early fan. He was truly one of the great American designers and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world. He is one of my personal favourites. This dress is absolutely gorgeous.
This is a dress that is extremely well made with a very high level of construction techniques. That alone makes it a fabulous piece for me. The dress is made from two types of lace that give the dress its beautiful tactile feel. Everything about the cut is done to highlight and showcase those wonderful sculptural lines that the dress has. The dress falls from lace straps that curve up and over each shoulder. It dips down at the front and the back is scooped to leave a bare expanse of skin. It skims over the bust to the slight empire cut waist. The waist is generous and the lines of the dress are stunning. The bodice is covered with a beautiful black lace with a second layer of lace on top of the nude silk lining underneath so you get a little bit of extra depth to the pattern that you see. The skirt is made out of a heavy corded silk lace. The cording is also a clever way to help to shape the skirt so beautifully. The skirt curves out and over the hips and then widens out to the hem. The top lace layer sits over a deep green silk inner skirt. Having the deep moss green underneath highlights the cord and lace more than adding just a black under skirt would have. It is genius. The silk underneath also helps to hold the fuller shape the skirt has. The shape was all created by clever seaming and cut and it is so much better in person it is ridiculous. He is a designer who cut for the body, not the hanger or a dress form. His work only truly comes to life once on. The workmanship on this dress is exquisite and to demi-couture standards. Excellent condition.
Lined in a nude silk through the bodice and the inner piece of the skirt is backed in a black silk organza. It closes with a back zipper. Hand finishes throughout.
Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under the bust: 15.5" across
Hips: open
Bodice: 12.5" from top of shoulder to seam under the bust
Total length: 52" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4843
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
Incredible 1960s Philippe Venet Hand Made Haute Couture Ivory Silk Wrape Over Inner Structural Dress
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Philippe Venet apprenticed to a local tailor who is authorized to make Balenciaga designs. In 1951 he moved to Paris and became a cutter to Schaparelli. From there he met Hubert de Givenchy and in 1962 joined his atelier where he was the head cutter. In 1964 he opened his own Haute Couture label with Givenchy's blessings and support. His work tended towards minimalism and clean lines. His business was never as large as Givenchy's which allowed him to be more hands on for a longer period of time. Couture pieces from him are rare and hard to find and the early were ones like this even more so. This was almost certainly a piece custom-made for somebody and it is incredibly beautiful.
The dress is amazing and showcases how wonderful a piece of true Haute Couture can be. It is made entirely by hand and the silk is that beautiful rich silk that you only seem to see in the very best pieces of couture. The dress wraps over an inner dress and this added inner structure keep the dress perfectly in place and also gives it the structure needed so that the outer layer falls perfectly over you. The bodice is cut into a V and it wraps, snaps and hooks into place. I love the way that he has brought in angled seaming and pleating to create the design that you see at the base of the plunge. On the panel that sits underneath the wrap everything is angled towards the centre of the dress and then the panel that sits over the wrap is set so that the pleats fall vertically all the way down to the hem. The hem is set on a curve that goes up at the front and around at the back. So when you walk you get a flash of bare legs. The back is cut longer and depending on your height you will have a bit of a sweeping behind you. The cut also gives you some pretty fullness and shape through the hips. At the back the seams are set vertically so that you just get one long swoop of fabric that extends out as touch at the bottom hem. There are even weights placed inside of the back so that it sits perfectly once on. Underneath this is a structured foundation piece. It has a structured corset top with boning and shaped cups in an ivory silk. The skirt is made of the same silk as the exterior and it is cut to just about the knee depending on your height. All of the inner seams are finished completely by hand and seeing how it is all piece together is a joy in itself. The colour of the silk is a beautiful creamy ivory. This is a brilliant dress and when you see it in person you will fall in love with how good it is. It really shows how sometimes simplicity can have so much of an impact. It would be a dress that might make an amazing wedding dress for the bride looking for a non-traditional choice, for a day wedding, or as an alternative dress in a more extended wedding celebration. Excellent condition with a minor note below
The inner dress acts as the lining and then the outer dress is also fully lined in an ivory silk. All the work is done by hand to Haute Couture standards. The inner dress closes with a hand set side zipper at the front. The outer dress snaps into place directly onto the inner dress and then the outer dress wraps and snapped onto itself. The zipper on the inner dress was slightly moved at some point but of course you don't see this once on. I have included a photo in the detail shots. I see a tiny hairline mark of thinning near the neckline and some wear to the edges of the top of the seams. Please see the photos after the label shot. Completely made by hand. Proper Haute Couture numbered label present.
Outer Dress
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 57" from top of shoulder to longest point of the back hem
Inner dress
Bust: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17.25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 38" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4779
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
oscar de la renta
c 1970 Oscar de la Renta Black Silk Taffeta Backless Halter Neck Dress w Extensive Ruffle Detailing
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I love when I find these earlier examples of Oscar de la Renta's work. He would heave been more personally involved in them and they really showcase the designer he was to become. The label on this dress tells us that it's probably late 60s maybe the first couple years of the 1970s and it seems similar to some of the pieces I've seen from the 1970 season. The dress beautifully showcases the the genius of his work and attention to detail. This is a favourite from him that I've had in the shop
The dress is gorgeous and is made from a beautiful black silk taffeta that holds the shape and volume that this dress has perfectly. The fabric choice also keeps the dress fairly light in weight while giving the dress some structure and shape. The front bodice is stunning. Two shaped triangles cover the front of the bodice, and there is a deep V for the neckline. The triangles extend all the way to the top of the neck and they are finished with a ruffle in the same fabric. This makes that V be a little less apparent and is a pretty detailing as it goes up and around your neck. Ties extend from just behind the peak of each triangle to tie behind the neck. It wraps around the waist and scoops low there. This leaves your entire back open and bare above that. I love this unexpected bare skin moment that is in stark contrast to the coverage at the front. The waist nips in and we have added a wide grosgrain ribbon to add a little more shape. The skirt deserves it own moment. It is made out of the same silk taffeta as the bodice. It explodes out from the waist to become incredibly full by the time it reaches the hem. Tiers of silk allow this expansion and there are five tiers in total. Each tier is finished with that same ruffled detail that you see around the halter neck and this really makes the dress special. Inside there is a silk lining and then another netted lining sits between the outer skirt and that inner layer. This helps to hold the volume that you see and it is spectacular. The photos on the dress form do not come close to doing it justice. This is a dress that needs an actual body in it and then it really comes to life. When you walk the taffeta rustles and the skirt swoops around to create this stunning billowing effect. Then when you turn to leave you have that flash of bare skin at the back. It is utterly amazing. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a layer of silk taffeta and the skirt is lined as described above. The dress closes with a low set zipper at the back. Hand finished throughout. The ribbon at the waist is not original to the dress but will be sent with it
Bust: each triangle covers 8 inches plus there's an inch and a half a ruffle on each side. There's no true side scene.
Waist: 12.5-13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: approx 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 59" from neck to hem and can be adjusted a bit depending on were you tie the neck
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4633
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Gina Fratini created some of the most sought after evening wear in the 1970s and into the 80s. Elizabeth Taylor chose to wear one of her dresses for her second marriage to Richard Burton in 1975 and Princess Diana made several appearances wearing her work. Fratini was a British fashion and costume designer whose label existed from 1964 into the eighties. She was also known for dressing Princess Anne, who wore a Fratini gown for her 21st birthday portrait. She did freelance work for Normal Norell and designed the Ossie Clark lingerie line. She won the Dress of the Year award in 1974. She as known for her use of natural fabrics and her dresses were complicated affairs that were not easy to reproduce, which gave her designs an edge in exclusivity.
More than anything I love the feather detailing on this dress and that gorgeous print. They take the dress to the next level and the details on this dress are truly spectacular. The dress is made out of a beautiful silk organza that has been treated so that it has a slight stiffened effect. Printed onto the silk is a gorgeous design that combines flowers, birds, hands and faces. The backdrop is the softest blush nude pink and the print is done in soft pastels. It is so pretty. The top of the dress is stunning. It has a high scooped neck that is finished with a ruffled collar. It skims over the bust and then is seamed right under the breasts for a baby doll feel. The sleeves are shaped into a puffed cap. They are set so that they curve over the top your arm and puff out around the shoulder. The skirt falls to the floor from under the high set empire wast and it is phenomenal in its cut. It falls in three tiers of silk and each tier expands outwards getting wider and fuller as the dress falls to the floor. This floats over and inner pale peach lining that is also set in tiers and it is absolutely gorgeous. I love the silhouette this creates. It is spectacular. The final touch are the feathers that are scattered over the entire dress. Each feather has been hand dyed to a pastel pink, blue or green and they are each attached to the end of a piped ribbons of the same fabric that is attached to the dress. They are set a different lengths so that they dangle off of the dress from the seams where each tier is attached at a seam. This creates incredible movement as the dress moves around you and then the feathers attached to the strips of fabric move as well. Each sleeve has a longer panel of the silk tied into a bow with a feather at each end The organza keeps it light and easy to wear while the cut and design are phenomenal. This is a truly amazing vintage piece. Excellent overall condition wit a note below
The bodice and skirt are lined in a peach silky rayon and the sleeves are unlined. It closes at the back with a painted metal zipper. There is the tiniest of discoloration under the arms and I see that has been reinforced around the inner arm edges with invisible mending tape from the back. Presents perfectly once on
Sleeves: 12" around the arm opening
Inset shoulders: 13.5"
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under the bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 9" from neck to empire seam under the bust
Total length: 56.5" from shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS
Item# DD4613
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Documented Spring 1961 Christian Dior by Marc Bohan 'Slim Line' Haute Couture Debut Silk Jacket & Skirt Suit
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This is an incredible set that is extra special because it is from the debut Haute Couture collection of Marc Bohan. It has the added province of being documented which is sometimes not easy to find with these very early pieces. The book Dior, Catwalk talks about the reaction to this first collection by Bohan; "Thundering applause, led by the Duchess of Windsor, rolled through the elegant grey and white salons of the House of Dior, the happy ending to the suspense story of the fashion year. At stake was the future dominance of Dior, and the career of designer Mark Bohan. The Chicago Tribune hailed him as being "Mister Dior, the third". The New York Times stated "the shouting, clapping, surging mob at the press show cause chaos in the elegant salon. Bohan was pushed up against the boiserie, kissed, mauled and congratulated. Chairs were toppled. Champagne glasses were broken. People were knocked down. It was a complete triumph for the designer". The book goes on to state that; Bohan called the collection the "Slim Line". It was a streamlined take on the original "New Look". He revisited the day suit with wide cut jackets and low waisted flared skirts fitted at the hips. The Times declared it "a success from the appearance of the first model and worthy in the tradition of the great maestro himself. And Women's Wear Daily wrote three months after the collection was shown that "the Bohan flare is everywhere. Bohan has done the impossible. He is a big commercial success and respected by the fashion intellect."
The set is exceptional and is an excellent investment piece as well. Dior prices continue to skyrocket and finding couture examples like this from such an important collection and in this condition is getting harder and harder.
This suit is fantastic. It is actually two pieces. A flared skirt and then a top / jacket that goes over that. The top is fascinating in the way that it is cut and we were very happy to find and see in the reference photo of it that its construction is deliberate. The front only buttons at the bottom and then there is a snap just above that button to hold it closed. It is meant to stay open above that and the button holes that you see continuing up along the edge of the jacket are actually faux. They do not open all the way through. You can see in the photo that the model is wearing it the way that it's meant to be worn. The very bottom is closed and then she has a light top on underneath. This lets the jacket play on its volume that it has. You could certainly open the fabric and finish the buttonholes if you wish to wear it fully closed, but it is meant to be like this. The jacket has a lot of volume and is meant to skim over you and then the skirt is cut in a sleek little flare that skims over the hips and flares out with a series of flat pleats all the way around the skirt. Around the waist the silk lies flat and neat. It is very flattering once on the body. When you stand still the skirt lays flat and smooth but when you move you get an incredible burst of movement and volume. Over that goes the jacket with its wonderful to the elbow wide cut sleeves and oversized MOP buttons down the front. The shoulders are soft and there is no collar. The fabric is a very high end silk twill dyed to that pale tan mixed with white. Both pieces are entirely finished by hand to Haute Couture standards and I've shown some of the detailing inside. It is chic and elegant yet still feels edgy. An amazing find. Excellent condition
The jacket is lined in a fine silk in the same colour as the exterior tan and the skirt is interlined in a white silk organza. The jacket closes with the bottom button only and a hidden snap above that as described above. The skirt closes with hook & eye at the waist and hidden snaps below that. Completely done by hand to Haute Couture Standards. Proper numbered couture label in place on the jacket. There are some natural, variations and lines in the silk that is inherent to this type of fabric and should not be considered a flaw. It is in remarkable condition.
Jacket
Slightly dropped shoulders: 16-17"
Bust: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom hem: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24.5" from neck to hem
Skirt
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 27" from waist to hem with 2" turned under the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4484
Reference Photo: Christian Dior Haute Couture Printemps-Ete 1961. Photo Emerick Bronson. Model Nicole de Lamargé.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.