Christian Lacroix launched his Haute Couture house in 1987 and his work was instantly revered world wide. He defined an era and he was crowned the King of Couture. A ready-to-wear line soon followed along with perfumes and menswear. His collections were always exotic and lavish affairs. He drew his inspirations from across the decades and I doubt there was ever a more high glamour couturier. This dress is very special and a stunning example of his work during this time period. It has all the signature Lacroix drama that you could ask for. It comes to me from the original couture client. This is his main pink label that was still being produced in France at this point as opposed to later pieces that were manufactured elsewhere. It was very high end, expensive ready-to-wear that was made to near couture standards. For the Fall 1998 runway this dress was shown in a deep burgundy but my client purchased hers in this glorious all black version. 

The dress is classic Lacroix from his early years with all the high end drama we love about his work. The dress is sleeveless with wide straps that curve up and around the shoulder. The bust is meant to be fitted and the neckline is scooped at both the front and the back. There is a full built in corseted inner dress that is boned and shaped through the bodice and has extensive attached underskirts. It is attached all along the neckline and around the arms and then it falls under the outer velvet layer. The outer layer is made of a black velvet that is soft to the touch and very rich in feel. It is shaped with long vertical seaming to lie over the inner dress. On either side of the hip of the velvet layer the fabric has been gathered with extra long ribbons that you can use to adjust the length on the sides up or down as you wish. For the photos, I have put them up a little more so you can see the underskirt, while on the runway shot you can see that they styled it with one side a little longer than the other. I love that you can adjust it like that. The inner corset is made of a combination of taffeta, boning and a fine mesh netting. The entire lower portion of the skirt is finished with his signature gathered and puffed taffeta that gives it tons of volume. Each layer of the fabric is light but when all the layers, and the sheer volume of fabric that has been used, is combined the overall weight of the dress is substantial and it feels like a couture piece. The velvet at the back of the skirt is longer and slightly trained. There is a final gathered seam that runs from the mid-back to the centre of the back of the skirt's hem. For this one the ribbon ties at the top to add detailing there and again you can adjust it if you wish to be longer or shorter. You can see how stupendous this moves in the attached runway video of the burgundy version. This comes from one of his the original couture clients. Excellent condition 

Fully lined in a full corseted and skirted underdress as described above. It closes with a hand set side zipper on the inner dress and another zipper on the black velvet top layer. Each side and the back of the velvet layer are adjustable in length with the ribbons that you see. The interior corset is boned and the underskirt is made up of several layers for volume and shape. Tagged a 42

Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner corset waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 11" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 59" from shoulder to front hem and the train at the back adjust to same length to up to approx 20" longer 

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3585

Reference Photos: Fall 1998 Christian Lacroix Runway.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This incredible dress is from the Fall 2000 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture collection and its twin walked the runway that season. The collection was lauded by the press. Marie Claire said 'Faithful to himself, Yves Saint Laurent has once again surpassed himself, without ever betraying the clean look that has become his signature.' The New York Times review by Cathryn Horn noted that the show was attended by ladies such as Nan Kempner who sat just a few chairs away from Catherine Deneuve and Lauren Bacall. Nan was seen in the audience saying 'fabulous' as the dresses paraded past. The Times review included remarks on all of the couture shows that season and said that the 'day belonged to Saint Laurent'. They also noted that "There have been a lot of Saint Laurent shows in recent years when nothing clicked and you thought, 'Okay, this is as good as it's going to get.' But the thing one realized the other day was how vast and deep are Mr. Saint Laurent's reserves of creativity compared with those of other, younger designers who blow themselves out early and then spend the next 10 or 15 years splashing around in the same puddle." This dress is exceptional and a rare piece from one of his final collections. That same NYT article also noted that during this time period, couture dresses had a start cost of $50,000 ($75k in modern dollars), and went up from there. This dress is sourced from the original couture client.  

The dress is exquisite and I love that you can see just how wonderful it is on the body from the runway reference photos that I have found for you. It is made from an inky black silk velvet with inset panels around the skirt. The sleeves are long and straight and the dress is cut to sit fully off the shoulders. This allows your entire upper shoulders to show. It skims over the body and the velvet lies over a fully built in inner corseting that gives support and keeps the dress perfectly in place. This inner corset is fully boned and closes with its own separate zipper. The dress skims over the body with vertical seaming all around for each panel that the dress is made up of. It is meant to sit so that your shoes show from under the skirt and this length also gives the skirt the best possible length to show off its fullness and the ingenious insets all around the skirt. Just below the hips he has inset panels that are made from knife pleated black silk netting. The are set in in such a way that each is very full. The result is that you get a stunning bit of volume through the lower skirts as these flare out around you and move when you move. They have a touch of transparency to them so you get a suggestion of leg showing as you walk. A wide silk satin ties at the waist for the perfect finish. Yves once said of the colour black "I love black because it affirms, designs, and styles. A woman in a black dress is a pencil stroke". The dress looks to have been unworn or worn very little and was sourced form the original couture client. Excellent condition  

The outer velvet layer is fully interlined in a fine black silk satin. The built in corset is boned and shaped. It closes with its own zipper and has an inner waist stay that hooks to close. The exterior layer closes with a hand set zipper. Done with Haute Couture construction techniques. The silk ribbon belt is not original to the dress. It appears to have been unworn or worn very little

Sleeves: 22"
Inner bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: approx 56" from natural shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3586

Reference Photos: Fall 2000 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The twin of this dress is held in the permanent archives of The Metropolitan Museum. It would not surprise me to find out that these were the only two samples of this dress in existence. True Haute Couture pieces were never produced in any significant quantities. The dress is as wearable now as it was when first made and feels very modern. It is entirely finished by hand and is from the time period when the house was run by Hubert de Givenchy himself. This is a wonderful and well documented piece showcasing Givenchy's work during this time period. I have included the dress that the MET has in the final shot here for your reference

The dress is made of a deep blue grey silk crepe. It is cut with a strong nod to the classic Grecian silhouette that leaves one shoulder exposed and bare. The construction details throughout the dress are exquisite. The bodice has been gathered by hand to create a series of soft pleats that run from the shoulder to the waist. These are set on a curving angle to follow the cut of the neckline as it works it way up towards the shoulder. The draping and soft pleat technique adds a beautiful detailing to the bodice of the dress. The waist is defined by a slim gold leather cord that wraps and ties to add shape. The skirt falls below this to the floor gently widening out a touch as it nears the hem. A second panel of fabric is draped over the skirt and set so that it angles softly down one side mirroring the angle of the shoulder. Slipping over this is a short cape that is made from the same fabric. It is cut on an angle to point down the front and the back and gives the dress a beautiful flowing feel. The colour is richer and deeper in person and on an actual body the entire dress really comes to life. Excellent condition with a few small notes below to review.

The dress is fully lined in a hand set blue silk of very high quality. There is a wide waist stay that hooks at the inner waist. It closes with a hand set, side painted metal zipper and from the waist down there are hidden set snaps that close the fabric of the skirt over the zipper. The bodice is lightly boned and there are small bust pads that are handset inside the bodice. The cape is unlined and slips over the head to wear. There are some light snags in the fabric here and there and some small areas pf darkening on the skirt overlay - the snags are most noticeably on the back of the skirt near the bottom - these are seen most when it is laid out flat but once on the color and placement make all of them negligible. Please see the two images after the label shots. All the interior work is done by hand to Haute Couture standards. Proper Couture tags on both pieces. Haute Couture tape label #55417

Dress
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder strap to waist
Skirt: 42" from waist to hem

Cape
39" from neck to longest point of hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD2767

Reference Photo: 1973 Givenchy Evening Dress from The MET Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The New York times said of this collection at the time; 'Yves Saint Laurent did it. With sophistication and authority in his collection for spring and summer, he gave validity to couture, the high end of the fashion industry. There was no desperate groping: this is the way the most expensive clothes in the world should look, he seemed to say. As the showings sailed into their final days, he re-established himself today as the king of couture." after their review of the day and suit looks they continued to say; "Preliminaries over, he was ready for evening dresses, the serious business of couture. His unerring eye for color came to the fore....One-color dresses were also effective, in fuchsia, bright blue or rose. Rarely did he resort to embroideries...His effect was achieved through line and cut." The review ended with this lovely sentiment; 'Saint Laurent knew his show was a success. "The couture lives," he whispered backstage after it was over. His mother, Lucienne Saint Laurent, told him he had never done better. He seemed to agree. It is rare for a designer to reinvent himself at the age of 56, the way Saint Laurent had just done. The show recalled his glory days in the 1970's, when he set the guidelines for couture and the rest of fashion. He has now done that for the spring of 1993." 

On the runway this dress was shown in a darker, more subdued blue. The twin of the runway dress is held in the Met Museums' collection and I have included that reference photo for you here along with the runway shots. My client had the dress made in one of the brighter blues that was used elsewhere in the collection that year and I love it in this brighter bolder color. The dress is cut to leave one shoulder completely bare. Both sides have long slim sleeve and there is a panel of the same silk gathered along the top of the shoulder that then swoops down over the bodice and the back. That draped panel is very full and I love how it drapes over the sleeve on that side. The inner details here show is the genius of couture. The zipper on that side is set so that is softly curves under the arm and runs down the top of the inner sleeve. That way the person wearing the dress does not have an uncomfortable zipper pull right under their arm. It also keeps the sleeve perfectly in place despite the absence of a shoulder. The waist is seamed and detail by a matching, hand dyed silk satin slim belt. The skirt falls the the floor under that, gently widening out as it nears the hem. The side opposite to the bare shoulder has a very high slit so that you get a flash of leg as you walk. It is stunning and in person the colour is a touch richer and deeper then how it photoed. The silk also has a slight texture to it that adds detailing in person that the camera does not quite convey. This is a wonderful example of how strong his tailoring was in evening wear and an important piece fromm a collection hailed as a triumph. Excellent overall condition with a small note below

Fully lined in a fine blue silk. Done with Haute Couture construction techniques and closes with a hidden set side zipper under the arm that curves up and into the sleeve as described above. Inner waist stay hooks to close. The fabric is cut on the bias so there is some give. There is a slight fading along the top of the shoulder and down that same sleeve. Please see the two photos after the reference shot. It is light and because of the placement once on it is barely seen. The hem has been let down at some point. The belt is original to the dress and is in excellent condition 

Sleeves: 27"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 18.5" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 43" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3582

Reference Photos: (1-2) S/S 1993 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway.  /  (3) S/S 1993 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Dress from The MET Online Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The dress comes directly from the original couture client and is in immaculate condition. The twin of it walked the runway for the Spring 1987 Haute Couture presentation and my client ordered this identical dress from that show. This is an exceptional example of Valentino's Haute Couture work that he was doing during the 1980s. Finding pieces from this time period in such immaculate condition is a rarity and I am very pleased to have this beautiful dress in the shop. I am also very pleased to have the runway shot of it for reference.

The lines of the dress are beautiful and I am glad to have that runway shot so that you can see just how wonderful it is on an actual body. Couture pieces are sometimes difficult to truly show in a photo as they are meant to highlight and show off the body and only truly come to life when worn. The fabric is a light silk crepe and it is cut to drape perfectly over the body, skimming over your curves to flatter and fit perfectly. The color is absolutely fantastic. It is his signature clear red that flatters most skin tones. It is a better shade of red in person then how it has photoed. If you know Valentino's work, then you know this red already. The top is sleeveless and angles in towards the high collar. There is a long band of fabric that runs down one side from the collar to the top of the hip and all of the fabric on either side is set to gather in towards that band. A large flat bow its at the top of the band and and I love how the shoulder is left bare beside it to really showcase the bow. A second bow sits at the bottom of the band so that you are wrapped in silk and finished up with those pretty and feminine touches Under there the skirt falls to the floor with in an expansive amount of fabric. It is cut on a curve all the way around and comes up shorter in the front. The back hem is cut longer so you get a slight bit of a trained effect there. The amount of fabric in the skirt is tremendous but its so light that it falls long and sleek when you are standing but can expand out almost to a full circle skirt if you twirl. The entire bottom edge is finished with a red silk satin banding. It is just stunning on the body and an amazing example of his earlier Haute Couture work. Excellent condition. 

The bodice and top portion of the skirt are lined in a fine red silk. Done with Haute Couture construction techniques and closes with a hidden set zipper under the front panel of fabric and then has silk covered snaps & hook one eye. Inner waist stay hooks to close. 

Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 43" from neck to shortest point of the front hem, 61" to the longest point of the back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3579

Reference Photo: Dalma for Valentino SS 1987 Haute Couture.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is the long version that was made from two pieces shows for the resort runway for that season. You can see the same top of the green dress here and then the same red silk organza used on the the second dress we have induced for reference. Combining the two elements and making the skirt full length results in this gorgeous dress. 

This is a stunning example of Ferrertti's more recent world and a very pretty dress. The red has a touch of a coral tone to it and the fabric choice gives it a light and romantic feel. The bodice and lower skirts have an extensive paneling of an embroidered, open cut owrk lae feeling fabrication. It's pattern combines different sized flowers that are layered over each other with  parts of the design open. On the top this is set to engine down on north he front and back with the silk red silk on the side.A bide coloured mesh sits behind the plunge at the front so you get the illusion of a deep neckline but it is very secure and safe. At the back there is a little option start of fabric that you cansnap into place or fold that back as I have for a deeper more open plunge. It nips in at the waist but with a slightly generous feel and then the skirt is full and falls to the floor under that. The entire bottom half fo the skirt is covered int hat same embroidery work as the top. It is a very pretty dress and has a touch of a vintage feel to it. Its very soft and romantic and feminine. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition 

Fully lined in a red silk and closes art the back with a hidden set zipper. Tagged a US6. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little.

Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16" from shoulder to waist
Skirt: 44.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3578

Reference Photos: Resort 2015 Alberta Ferretti Collection. Model: Josephine van Delden.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is an incredible example of Karl lagerfeld's Haute Couture work. On the runway this was shown with a full wide skirt and I love that it is different because it shows you the versatility of it how you could potentially wear it with a skirt from your own closet. My client opted for a sleek tapered legged trouser instead of the skirt which I think really allows the jacket and its lines to really shine. In the book 'Chanel Catwalk' they said of this collection; 'Karl Lagerfeld focused on suits ..for this haute couture collection, presented as a winding catwalk in a riding centre in the Bois de Boulogne. It featured 'only' fifty-eight looks, 'but I could have had many more,' Lagerfeld told Women's Wear Daily, 'because we have many clients and they want suits, suits, suits.'

The lines of this suit are crisp and sharp and the tailoring is immaculate. Both pieces are made out of a silk taffeta that allows them to retain the exact lines that Lagerfeld intended. The jacket is cut so that it is fitted to the upper bodice and shoulders and then flares outwards as it glides past the hips. The collar is neat and small and I love how it is notched and shaped at the front. It zips to close under a shaped panel of fabric at the front and there are two small discreet holes that you can slide a pin, french cuffs or a very thin ribbon through to add some detailing as they did on the runway. Each sleeve is long and straight with a touch of width to it. These end in a notched slit rather then a traditional cuff which falls in line with the sleek minimalist feel of the rest of the suit. In a little hidden surprise the underside of each cuff, the inside the collar and the front panel of fabric over the zipper have all been meticulously hand lined in a pale gold metallic silk. The pants are sleek and simple in their cut. They are flat fronted and cut to taper down to the ankles. A sharp pleat has been hand sewn down the front and the back of each leg. The inside of the suit is as immaculate as the outside and it is of course, entirely made by hand. The iconic gold Chanel chain runs along the inner hem of the jacket and I suspect that it is actually gold plated. Every stitch is perfection. This is a rare opportunity to own a piece of true couture by one of the most important designers of our lifetime. Excellent condition with a minor note below. 

The jacket is lined in a black silk and closes with a hidden zipper under the front panel of fabric. The pants zip to close with a hidden set side zipper. I see a slight touch of stress to part of the front middle seam on the pant, see the photo after the label shots. Both piece are hand finished to couture standards. Proper couture labels present with couture tape 78762 under the tag on the jacket and 78763 under the pant tag. Sourced from the original couture client 

Jacket
Sleeves: 23.5"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 30" from neck to head 

Pant
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 38" from top of bodice to waist
Inseam: 28" from inner seam to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3580

Reference Photo: Spring 2000 Chanel Haute Couture Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Jean Paul Gaultier's illustrious career spans decades. His first show was in 1976 and his avant garde designs quickly gained him the reputation of being fashion's 'l'enfant terrible'. His designs mixed cultures with abandon, gender norms were blurred through his pieces and the body was presented encased in ways unimaginable prior to his brilliant vision. In 1997 he entered the sanctified world of Haute Couture and for just over two decades produced stunning work cumulating with his final show for Spring 2020. His pieces of couture rarely come to market and I am very pleased to have this unbelievably beautiful ensemble. This was look 33 for the Fall 2001 Haute Couture presentation entitled 'China and Spain'. For this season Gaultier combined elements from those two countries in a beautiful homage. Pieces from this collection were featured in the The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk exhibit of 2013 and to have a piece available for purchase is almost as rare as being able to have bought it as a couture client in the first place. After the show Gaultier said of this collection “I wanted to do something more sensual than sexy. The idea was to bring together everything that you imagine when you think of China and Spain—theater, movement, color, history and richness.” The twin of this look was worn by Alec Wek on the runway with a huge red bib neckpiece over the top. This may have been the only piece ever produced beyond the runway set. 

It is extraordinary to think that Jean Paul Gaultier has only produced a Haute Couture line for two short decades given his long career. Like most Haute Couture, this is a set that only truly comes to life when it is on an actual body. I was very pleased to have found the reference photos and video so that it shows you just how amazing it is on. The pants are a work of art. They are incredibly heavy. They have been densely beaded with glass tube beads in tightly spaced rows to cover every inch. Worked into the sequins are the brilliantly coloured flowers that you see. These are all hand embroidered and trail over the pant legs, wrapping around them to act as a living wall of art. The work to place each of these beads individually and do the embroidery must have taken hundreds of hours to complete. They are cut with a flat front and straight leg that is quite wide. So when you move they move and this adds another element to the design as the light catches the beads while the colours of the embroidered flowers burst around you. The top is made out of a silk jersey and my client ordered it in a solid black. It is ingenious how it closes with a complicated array of a hidden zipper front with two separate areas of silk covered snaps and hooks. I have included some photos of the stages of how it closes for you to see. It wraps around the body and drapes to the one side. The collar is high and you can see the reference to China with its shape. Each sleeve is incredibly long (see the third last detail photo before the label) and when they are pushed up the create a design detailing in themselves with a row of rounded gathers forming around the entire lower part of the arm. I love the long trailing swag of fabric that is set on one side. It cascades over the pants and to the floor. This panel of fabric elevates the design even more and gives it that Gaultier feel of going against the norm. It also has a nod to the trade de luces cape, part of the traditional clothing that Spanish bullfighters wear. It is a brilliant piece of Haute Couture and is everything you want to see in a Haute Couture piece; elegance, breathtaking beauty and a dash of avant garde. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition. 

The upper portion of the top is lined in silk and it zips to close at the inside front. A jersey panel wraps over this and closes with a series of silk covered snap and hook & eye along the side near the neck and also along the waist and hip area of that same side. The pants are fully lined in a silk and close with a hand set zipper. There may be the occasional bead missing from the pants. All the interior work is done by hand to Haute Couture standards. Proper Couture tags on both pieces. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Sourced from the original couture client 

Top
Sleeves: 45.5" and push up to wear
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Interior waist: to 13" flat across from side seam to side seam, inner waist stay hooks at 14"
Hips: open
Length: 29" from neck to shortest point of the front side, 37" to longest point of the back
Hip swag: 47" from waist to longest point of the hem

Pant
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 42" from top of bodice to waist
Inseam: 30" from inner seam to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3581

Reference Photos: Alek Wek for Fall 2001 Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

In October 1997, the first women’s ready to wear collection under the Narciso Rodriguez label was presented in Milan for the spring 1998 season. Rodriguez was awarded 'Best New Designer' at the Vogue/VH1 Fashion Awards in New York and the 'Perry Ellis Award' for best new designer by the Council of Fashion Designers of America that same year. He was the first designer ever to receive consecutive womenswear designer of the Year awards by the Council of Fashion Designers of America in 2002 and 2003. Countless other awards and accolades have been awarded to him as well. He also designed the bias-cut wedding dress that Carolyn Bessette wore for her marriage to John F. Kennedy, Jr. and Michelle Obama chose to wear a dress from the designer’s spring 2009 collection for her husbands victory as present and his first State of the Union address. You may remember seeing Claire Danes in a shorter version of this same dress for the 2012 Tribeca Film Festival. This one is a more evening version and my client had this one made for her by Rodriquez that year. As far as I am aware it was a bespoke piece and it is the only one in existence. It is a stunning example of how amazing of a designer he is. 

The dress is absolute perfection and showcases his talent for the bias cut that is meant to flatter a woman's body but never in a way that is too tight. Rather it just skims over your curves and is so very flattering. The dress is completely cut on the bias and made from a heavy deep fuchsia pink silk crepe. It has that minimalist tendency to it that he is so well known for with a crisp and elegant result. The bodice is cut with his signature bra cut top with a curving black silk panel set so that it scoops under the breasts. It then extends upwards to curve over each shoulder and down the back into a deep scoop. Inset above the black is a top stitched pink bit of silk. The dress flows past the waist from under the black with no seam to break the eye. It is cut on the bias so simply flows perfectly to the hips and then sweeps to the floor. Just above the knee on the skirt inset panels have been set in all the way around the lower part of the skirt. These give the lower skirt the shape volume you see. It moves and flow around you beautifully when you move. The back is cut longer into a slight train that flows behind you. It is absolutely stunning and pristine. The photos come close to the actual color but in person it is even better with slightly more depth and richness. Excellent condition  

Fully lined in a matching silk and closes with a back zipper. The zipper has a bit of a 'stick' feel to it when you close it. Appears to have never been worn or worn very little. The bias cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes

Bust: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 64" from top of shoulder to front hem, 74" to the back

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Item# DD3576

Reference Photo: Claire Danes in Narciso Rodriguez at the 2012 Tribeca Film Festival.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The twin of this dress was shown on the Resort runway for 2008. In Vogue's review of the collection, journalist Nicole Phelps said in part; 'The grand theater-in-the-round setting for Oscar de la Renta's resort show put some audience members in mind of Chanel's recent presentations, but if there was a designer's influence at play in this beautiful collection, other than de la Renta's own, it could have been Yves Saint Laurent's. Loulou de la Falaise, YSL's longtime muse-turned-fellow designer, was sitting front-and-center (coincidentally, as it happened), and up on the raised platform there were seventies references'. The show was presented the same day as the 2007 CFDA Awards where Oscar de la Renta was nominated for Womenswear Designer of the Year which he won (tied with Proenza Schouler).

This Oscar de la Renta dress is absolutely gorgeous. It is red carpet worthy and would even make an amazing wedding dress for the bride looking for a non-traditional choice. It is in immaculate condition. The dress is covered with a dense application of muted pale ivory gold round paillettes in various sizes. These are set onto the entire dress in horizontal rows from the top of the shoulder to the hem. Running around the the neckline is a dense detailing of beadwork. There is also a scattering of pearls that are set in and among the beads. The dress is made up of three layers. There is an inner ivory silk layer topped by a layer of silk tulle net. Then the very outer layer is made of an ivory silk net and it is on this top layer that that all of the sequins, pearls and beads are applied. The edges of the tulle along the neckline and around the openings for your arm are left with a deliberate raw edge. This same raw edge detailing is also done at the hem. The over-sized sequins that cover the dress vary slightly in size and in their colour. This makes the light catch the dress in a slightly different way as you move and it creates the most lovely effect. Their size creates a more overall glow effect rather then a glitzy sparkle. It is very well made and very beautiful. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition.

Fully lined in a cream silk and constructed from three layers as described above. It closes at the back with a metal and nylon zipper. Tagged a size 12

Bust: 18-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19-22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 59" from shoulder to front hem, 60" to back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD2777

Reference Photos: Resort 2008 Oscar de la Renta Runway Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

My couture client purchased this set in the spring of 2004 and it is a beautiful example of his work during this time period. This is one of the pieces made for retail sale that season and has many of the hallmarks we know and love about McQueen's work. Lace was used throughout the collection that year. Vogue said of the runway show; 'McQueen's signatures—elaborately pieced tailoring (now beautifully softened with delicate inserts of lingerie)... did star turns' and the this set lives up to that and more. 

Both pieces are made from a black silk taffeta and the top is detailed across the shoulder with a fine gossamer black lace. The skirt takes it reference from many of the cuts seen in the spirited dance show that the collection was presented with for that season. If you look through the photos of the show, you see many skirts were cut with this hip hugging silhouette that then flared outwards at the bottom skirting. On this set the flare is at the back with the front cut to be more of a sleek pencil shape. But when you turn to the side or around, you see that the silk hugs the bum and then flares out quite dramatically on either side at the back. The top showcases more of his elaborate and genius tailoring. It is cut and shaped by a series of vertical curved panels pieced together all the way around the body. It buttons down the front and has flap pockets set on each hip. The entire top of the shoulders and the capped sleeves are made out of a fine black lace that allows a glimpse of skin through its elaborate design. A wide grosgrain ribbon wraps around the top edge of the corseting and finishes with a neat flat bow at the front. The fabric choice gives it shape and holds the intended silhouette and the femininity of the lace is the perfect contrast against that sharp tailoring. This is Mcqueen at his finest and a stunning set that is even better once it is on an actual body. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition. 

Both pieces are lined in a black silky rayon. The skirt zips to close with a hidden set zipper and the top buttons down the front. Note that it was a little small on the dress form and does button properly once on the correct size person. The skirt is tagged a 38 and the top is tagged a 40. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. The entire set is a true black in person 

Top
Slightly dropped shoulders: 17"
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23" from neck to hem

Skirt 
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3572

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

In 1993 Oscar de la Renta took over as Creative Director at Balmain where he designed the Haute Couture collections until 2002. The house had been floundering at that point and he had a huge impact on the reviving the sales of the couture pieces, mainly by catering to private clients, much like Balmain had originally. The runway photo that we found shows the dress layered over a printed pant but all of the subsequent references of it match the set to the one we have here with the pants in the same striped silk as the top piece. The twin of this set was a part of the 2016 ‘Oscar de la Renta: The Retrospective’ exhibition at de Young Museum, San Francisco, curated by André Leon Talley where it is referred to as being 'evening pyjamas'. The exhibit was broken into different themed galleries and this dress was a part of the garden themed section. Oscar was an avid gardener and the works in this section took inspiration from that life long passion. And it holds an extra special significance because the one shown in the exhibit was loaned to the museum by Annette de la Renta, Oscar's wife and muse, giving it an extra layer of personal connection to its provenance. The dress also appears in the book 'Oscar de la Renta: His Legendary World of Style' by Talley. The Met Museum also holds one in their permanent collections and then this one is the third.

In an interesting twist, one of the other dresses that was a part of the garden section of the exhibit was a striped OLDR dress from 1999 and my client had a that dress as well. It is listing along with this one today. It is incredible coincidence to have both dresses in at the same time with that shared bit of exhibit history behind them and both are exceptionally beautiful.

It is extraordinary to think that Oscar never produced a Haute Couture line under his own label and these few short years at Balmain gives us a chance to see just how talented he really was at all levels. Like most Haute Couture, this is a set that only truly comes to life when it is on an actual body. No matter how good it looks in the photos, the impact it has in real life and how it moves once on is undeniably beautiful. The fabric that both piece are made from is a fine chine silk taffeta that hearkens back to the 18th century with its washed pale blue striping. All of the edges are finished in that same fabric but for the edges it has been tightly knife pleated. These form a wide pleated ruffle all around the collar, down the front and around each cuff. One pale baby pink stripe runs along the edge of the ruffle for a magical bit of colour against the blue. That pink is then picked up on each hand made button that runs down the front and is set on each cuff. The buttons are amazing. They are hand made and they each have a tiny, perfect sprig of hand embroidered pink flower splayed across their tops. Under the evening coat, are a pair of silk taffeta pants in the same fabric. The pants are cut very simply with a flat front and no banding at the waist. They run in a slightly tapered cigarette shape and land just about the ankle depending on your height. Over this is that amazing evening coat that has the lines of a formal court dress worked into its cut. It is created with a nod to the decadence of the eighteenth century with a high pleated collar and softly defined shoulders. The sleeves are long and slim, ending in an elaborate ruffled cuff. It skims over the bodice and tapers in at the waist. The buttons to close it run from the collar to the waist at the front. From that point under the bottom button the front is completely open so that when you walk you see the pants underneath. The back of the coat is a work of art. The skirt trails out behind you, falling from that curved horizontal seam at the waist where the fabric is gathered in soft folds. It is tremendously full and when you walk it causes the skirt to billow out behind you. Haute Couture is always about the details and I love that for the seam that runs across the low back, Oscar used a fine pink silk piping to define the seam and where the gathers of the lower skirting are set. It is the perfect detail to tie in with the pink at the front. This is everything you want to see in a Haute Couture piece; elegance, refinement and a dash of coquetry. It is ornate but sophisticated and feels wonderfully light and perfectly suited to his love of nature and botanical themes. “A garden is probably the most spiritual and pure of joys. It’s a communion with nature and beauty in the most simple and fundamental form.”– Oscar de la Renta. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition. 

Both pieces are unlined and all the interior work is done by hand to Haute Couture standards. The pants close with a hidden set side zipper. There is a built in gusset that is pristine. The evening coat/dress closes with a hand set zipper and then a panel that snaps into place over that with silk, hand covered snaps. Hand made, light shoulder pads. A series of hand embroidered buttons down the front. The inner waist stay hooks to close and you could adjust the hooks if needed or wear it unhooked if you needed the extra room. Each cuff zips to close with a hidden set zipper and has three of the same buttons as decoration. I see one pinhead mar near a front button and a nick out of the fabric near the seam under the arm. One inner seam on either side looks like it was slightly adjusted. There is an extra button sewn to an inner seam. Proper Couture tags on both pieces and the coat one has its couture tape underneath numbered 173 470. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Sourced from the original couture client 

Evening Coat Dress
Sleeves: 23.5"
Shoulders: 15.25"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15" flat across from side seam to side seam, inner waist stay hooks at 14"
Hips: open
Length: 56" from neck to shortest point of the front hem, 62" to longest point of the back hem

Pant
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 39.5" from top of bodice to waist
Inseam: 28" from inner seam to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3568

Reference Photos: (1) 1998 Balmain Silk taffeta coat and pants from the book "Oscar de la Renta: His Legendary World of Style" by Andre Leon Talley.  /  (2) 1998 Balmain Ensemble from The MET Collection Online.  /  (3-4) Spring 1998 Balmain Haute Couture Runway. / (5-6) Photos from the ‘Oscar de la Renta: The Retrospective’ exhibition at de Young Museum, San Francisco. Curated by André Leon Talley.  /  (7) Photo from the book "Oscar De La Renta: The Retrospective" by Jennifer Park and Molly Sorkin.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This billowing silk taffeta dress and pant sent was shown in two color-ways on the Spring 1999 runway; this green and taupe set and a blue stripe and yellow pant version that has a slightly different sleeve. The twin of the blue version was exhibited as a part of the 2016 ‘Oscar de la Renta: The Retrospective’ exhibition at de Young Museum, San Francisco, curated by André Leon Talley. The exhibit was broken into different themed galleries and this dress was a part of the garden themed section. Oscar was an avid gardener and the works in this section took inspiration from that life long passion.  “A garden is probably the most spiritual and pure of joys. It’s a communion with nature and beauty in the most simple and fundamental form.”– Oscar de la Renta.

In an interesting twist, one of the other dresses that was a part of the garden section of the exhibit was a pale blue striped Haute Couture Balmain dress designed by Oscar and my client had a that dress as well. It is listing along with this one today. It is incredible coincidence to have both dresses in at the same time with that shared bit of exhibition history behind them and both are exceptionally beautiful.

It is interesting to see the cross over from the earlier Balmain piece to this one. Variations on the striped silk taffeta fabric was central to the theme of many of his pieces during this time period. This is definitely one of the most dramatic. The silk is light in weight so that when you walk in this it billows out behind you in the most fantastical kind of way. It is exceptionally long so you get a serious dose of drama behind you that I love. The impact it has in real life and how it moves once on is undeniably beautiful. It is made up of two pieces. The green and ivory striped silk overdress and pair of slim taupe silk taffeta pants that go underneath. The pants are cut very simply with a flat front and no waist banding. They run in a slightly tapered cigarette shape and land just about the ankle depending on your height. Over this is that amazing open front dress. It really needs an actual body under it to truly bring it to life and you can see how it will sit once on from the runway reference photo. It is cut to be very loose and easy. The dress part of this set should fit almost any size and body type as it is deliberately cut full and oversized. The entire edge of the neckline is elastic and finished with a ruffle above that. It slips on over the head and the elastic allows you to pull it down the shoulders leaving a bare expanse of skin. Each sleeve is cut to be incredibly wide and full. It is open through the bust with a row of silk covered buttons and loops running down the centre. The buttons end above the top of the pants so that you get a peak of skin showing between. The body of the dress drops to about the hips and then the skirt is set into that in a curving, ruffled detailed seam that wraps around and dips slightly at the back. The lower skirts are tremendously full and they are cut to trail out behind you in the most fantastical, high drama way. The dress is at its original unaltered length. The fabric is so light that it billows and puffs out around you at the slightest bit of movement. It is dramatic but feels wonderfully light once on. It is perfectly suited to his love of nature and botanical themes. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition with a small note below. 

Both pieces are unlined. The pants close with a hidden set back zipper. The outer dress slips on and closes at the front with hand covered silk buttons and loops. I see some scuffing and storage marks near the hem of the back skirt. All are minor and they get lost in the extreme length and amount of fabric. I photoed the worst one and that shot is after the photo of the label. It otherwise appears to have been worn very little if at all. Both tags are hand numbered 2256. Sourced from the original couture client. If the pants did not work size wise it would be easy to wear something different under it as the over dress should fit a large range of sizes as it is open through the entire body and generously cut. 

Dress
Bust-hips: open
Length: approx 64" from neck to shortest point of the front hem, 84" to longest point of the back hem

Pant
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 42.5" from top of bodice to waist
Inseam: 32" from inner seam to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: Pants SML-MED, Over dress OSFA

Item# DD3570

Reference Photos: (1) Spring 1999 Oscar De La Renta Runway.  /  (2-4) Photos from the ‘Oscar de la Renta: The Retrospective’ exhibition at de Young Museum, San Francisco. Curated by André Leon Talley.  /  (5) Photo from the book "Oscar De La Renta: The Retrospective" by Jennifer Park and Molly Sorkin.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I found two versions of this dress when researching it. One was a Haute Couture version in a gold brocade from the Fall 1997-1998 runway. The Couture version took the formed and shaped bust-line to an even greater degree then this ready to wear version that I have here. Then there was an all black version shown for the Fall 1998 ready-to-wear show and you can see it has the same silhouette as this dress does. If you then combine the two, taking that same RTW shape and making it on the fabric from the Couture show, you have this dress. Finding runway references for Mugler's work is not always easy as he would often change designs for production and produced many pieces that were not shown on the runway. It's an extraordinary find.

I love the sharp fitted cut of the dress and that shaped bodice is exactly the kind of lines that we expect when we think of his work. That shaped, curved and pointed bust-line felt scandalous when they were first shown on the runway and still feel that way years later. This is classic Mugler and very collectible as a result. The dress is made out of a gold brocade that is heavy enough so that it was able to be sculpted into that curving shape. It molds and accentuates your curves. The curves through the hips are there whether it is on or off the body and he plays and exaggerates the female form through them. All of the shape is created through seaming to help to give the dress structure, shape and support. The waist nips in and the hips curve out and away from the body. The skirt is cut above the knee and curves in at the hem to further exaggerate the shape. The bust is spectacular. It is seamed and molded like a bra cup and then has those extensions that wing up into points on both sides. The cups are inset at the front so the shape is pushed to the front as you can see in the reference photos. You only have to look at the runway photos included to know how amazing this one is going to be on. The colour in person is a much stronger metallic gold feeling and really is better in real life. The fabric is also surprising soft. It's really fabulous. Excellent condition.

Fully lined in a brown silky rayon and closes with a back zipper. Tagged a vintage Mugler 38. The cups will probably fit up to a B, maybe a small C. They are seamed and wired for shape.

Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 28" from top of bodice to hem and the paint extend about
2.5” above the top of the bodice

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3567

Reference Photos: (1) Fall 1997-98 Thierry Mugler Haute Couture Runway.  /  (2) Fall 1998 Thierry Mugler Runway.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This dress was made for an exclusive collaboration with Luisaviaroma in 2018. The Attico brand was founded by street-style stars Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini and the line has a vintage vibe to it that I love. It was a social media hit with an amazing array of women choosing to showcase it. 

The dress is brand new and unworn. It is made by applying thousands of tiny gold sequins flat onto a semi-transparent black fabric. The sequins are placed side by side and completely cover every inch of the dress. The fabric itself has a touch of transparency to it that adds to its light and sexy feel. It has an easy feel through the body that is flattering and comfortable to wear. It wraps and ties to one side of the inner side seam and then it snaps into place under the bow on the other side. The front plunges down into a low V at the neck and the bodice is cut on a on a flattering curve. It is set wide across the shoulders and the sleeves pouf out around the upper arm and then taper into the wrists. The ties and snap cinch it in at the waist and then it curves around the hips. It is cut very short and you can see just how short it in the various shots added. It is brand new and unworn. These sold out instantly when they were dropped. Excellent condition

Unlined and ties to close at the inner side and then the bow snaps into place. Tagged a size 44. Unworn and pristine. With the tie closure there is some play in the measurements below

Sleeves: 25.5"
Slightly inset shoulders: 15.5"
Bust: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam and adjustable more
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam and adjustable more
Length: 32" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD3566

Reference Photos from various Instagram accounts: @the_attico / @silvanovangi / @luisaviaroma / @jessicakahawaty / @martalozanop / @rosacrespo

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

A version of this set is held by the Liverpool Museum and was a key piece in the exhibit at the Walker Art Gallery Collection for the Fashion Icons: Celebrating Gay Designers exhibit. The show notes for their piece stated; 'Bill Gibb was born in Scotland and moved to London to study fashion design at St Martin’s School of Art. Between 1969 and 1972 he worked as a freelance designer for the fashion house of Baccarat before launching his own company. This evening dress, with its petal-shaped hemline, and glowing jewel-like colours, is typical of much of Gibb’s work in the early 1970s. In particular, his use of an exotic pattern and a metallic Lurex thread in the fabric shows how he was often influenced by rich historic fabrics and non-Western cultures.'

Gibb was one of the most influential and famous designers in 1970s Britain and his clothes were sought out and worn by the rich and famous. This set is a wonderful example of the kind of work he was doing during this time period. His use of these metallic lurex fabrics helped to add a fantastical twist to the story he was trying to tell through his clothing. This set has all four original pieces to it. There is a skirt, a sleeveless tank that buttons at the front, the most fabulous jacket and a matching belt. The skirt is cut to midi length and is made of a series of flat knife cut pleats that fall from a more fitted hip. The choice of the lightweight lurex lets it have a ton of movement when you move and the pleats swish around you when you walk. The sleeveless top tucks into that. It is made in the traditional tailoring manner with a panel of lining fabric attached all the way around the bottom. This is something you normally see in couture pieces. This additional panel of fabric is made so that when you tuck it into the skirt you are not adding any bulk or lines around the hip area. The top buttons down the front and closes with holographic faceted buttons. Topping these two pieces is the jacket. It is cut with high capped shoulders and has an over-sized dog eared collar. It cinches in at the waist by seaming and flares out below that to past the hip. There are big curved pockets on each hip and the same buttons close the jacket that are on the top. It almost has a slouchy cardigan feel to it. The set comes with its original belt that has an unusual finish of a flexible holograph strip on the front of it. This strip picks up on the buttons of the jacket and top. I have shown the belt over the skirt and top, and then also around the jacket, since it works either way. The colour in the lurex is a fabulous mix of a soft green with other colours running through. The heavy dose of glitter running over the lurex softens the fabrics and gives it a fairy tale quality. I love the nod to the forties that the set has and the fabric is truly incredible. This is a rare set from one of my personal favourite designers. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition.

The skirt is lined through the hips and then where the pleats start it is unlined. It closes with a side zipper. The top is unlined and buttons to close with of lining around the lower half that you tuck into the skirt. The jacket is lined in a green silk satin and buttons to close. Two buttons on each cuff. Pockets on each hip of the jacket. Original tie belt. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.

Jacket
Sleeves: 24" approx.
Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: 18-18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14.5-16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16.5" from neck to waist
Skirt: 16" from waist to hem

Top
Bust: 16.5-17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 21" from shoulder strap to hem

Skirt
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 34.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD2739

Reference Photos: (1) Evening dress, Bill Gibb, 1973 from the Walker Art Gallery Collection, Fashion Icons: Celebrating Gay Designers" exhibit / (2) Evening dress, cellulose acetate, nylon and lurex, Bill Gibb, 1973, Liverpool Museum Archives. / (3) Charlotte Rampling wearing Bill Gibb for Harpers & Queen, February 1973. Photo by Barry McKinley.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This shrug was shown on the runway in a darker colour but I prefer this amazing cream version. Its a little sleeker in feel an the colour feels more elevated to me.  I have held this in my archives for several years now and I think that it is a stunning example of the fur pieces being produced by designers like Valentino during this time period. Fur was well established as being treated like a fabric by this period.  It is made from a soft mink in a pale creamy ivory. In person it has a more creamy feel then how it photoed. The fur is supple and very very soft. What is remarkable is that the curving pattern that you see winding down each arm . The lines all match up perfectly across the back s they go into the sleeves. This gives the shrug an added bit of texture and pattern. To wear it you simply slip it over the shoulder. It has been properly stored and cared for and appears to have been worn very little if at all. No splitting, issues or shedding. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a black and white Valentino printed silk lining. It slips on with no closures. Tagged a 42

Sleeves: 22"
Shoulders: approx 15"
Bust: no defined side seams
Height at back: 14" from top to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Item# S924

Reference Photo: Fall 2004 Valentino Runway Collection, model Malin Persson.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I have a small collection of historically important, key designer labelled vintage furs and fur trimmed pieces stored away in my archives that I will be slowly posting on the site over the next couple of years until I have none left. I will no longer be buying furs for the shop moving forward and have not purchased anything for several years now. I feel like times have changed and while there still is a place for vintage furs for some, including collectors and historians, many modern girls are choosing other options. Many of the pieces in my collection are representative of the designer during a set time period in history that was different then our modern outlook. I have decided that the best course to handle this controversial issue is to let the pieces I have go rather then sit in a cold storage unit. Fur coats are final sale.

The twin of this dress was shown on the Resort runway for 2008 and was Look 56. In Vogues review of the collection, journalist Nicole Phelps said in part; 'The grand theater-in-the-round setting for Oscar de la Renta's resort show put some audience members in mind of Chanel's recent presentations, but if there was a designer's influence at play in this beautiful collection, other than de la Renta's own, it could have been Yves Saint Laurent's. Loulou de la Falaise, YSL's longtime muse-turned-fellow designer, was sitting front-and-center (coincidentally, as it happened), and up on the raised platform there were seventies references' she went on to mention this dress in particular saying; 'And as for those evening gowns, a pair of printed chiné taffeta dresses (one in marigold, another in coral) may have had the front-row lovelies—Renée Rockefeller, Aerin Lauder Zinterhofer—reconsidering their outfits for tonight's CFDA Awards, where, of course, de la Renta is nominated for Womenswear Designer of the Year.'

The dress dies have a nod to the work of YSL who did several dress in the 1970s in this same silhouette that is caught up at the bust and then widen out as it nears the floor with a longer back then front. This silhouette is marvellously falter on and easy to wear. It also creates the most beautiful lines as you walk away and the skirt and back pillow out and trail behind you. It is made out of a bright coral silk hat has a slight iridescent quality to the finish. The very upper bodice is fitted and wide starts curve up and around each shoulder. Under that it is all volume and drama. The dress has a ton of volume to it that shows best when you move. It has three sets of ruffled tiers that fall softly to the floor. The lightness of the silk causes the on the skirt to billow out and move with the slightest bit of air. When this is on and you are walking the effect that this creates is absolutely gorgeous. The back of the skier is longer then the front and I took some shots of it from the side so you can see how it curves down and back. The runway references also show this beautifully. I love how each there is defined by that gathered ruffle and the entire bottom hem is a wider version of the same. This extra little detail is fabulous and adds an extra element of romance and femininity. This is Oscar at his best and a tremendously beautiful dress. The dress was never worn and still has its original tags. Excellent condition. 

Fully lined in a matching coral silk.  It closes with a hidden set side zipper. Tagged a size 6. All original tags and unworn. The colour is slightly less vivid in person and even better.

Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under the bust: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist - hips: open
Length: 52" from top of shoulder to shortest point of the front hem, 62" to the longest point at the back

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3563

Reference Photos: Emina Cunmulaj for the Resort 2008, Look 56, Oscar de la Renta Runway Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

If there is a dress more instantly recognizable and famous then the Valentino dragon dress I am not sure what dress that might be. It is a star even among the many outstanding dresses that Valentino has created over the years. The Haute Couture version was first created to great fanfare in 1969 and we have included some of the many reference photos that can be found for that original version. Then for the spring of 2001, the Valentino atelier released a limited edition collection of re-edited copy of the dress. This is one of those dresses and my couture client purchased it directly from Valentino. This is a rare chance to own an official Valentino version of one of the most iconic dresses ever produced. 

This version of the famous dragon dress follows the lines of the original couture one perfectly. The only difference is that this one is of ready to wear finishings rather then made to the Haute Couture level that the original would have been made to. At first glance you immediately think of the 1969 version and it is such a special piece. The description of the dress where it is documented in the book on Valentino's work sums it up perfectly; 'Printed tunic dress with a yellow, green and red oriental dragon against a very dark background; it features a seamed bust line, a stopped neckline, long sleeves and a deep slit along the left hip.' The dress is made out of a silk that has a satin like finish to it with that wonderful dragon printed on its surface. The dragon curls around the body on both the front and the back of the skirt and across the back and bust. Even the sleeves have part of the design on them. The neck is scooped and the sleeves each end in a wonderful flare out by the time they reach their ends. A curved horizontal seam gives a touch of definition just under the bust and then the skirt flows to the floor in a widening line. The choice of fabric is perfect as it is just heavy enough to keep the shape that you see so that you get the full view of the dragon design from any angle once it is on. The slit on the one side is very high and shows a ton of leg when you move, balancing out the coverage everywhere else. It is incredible. Excellent condition 

The dress is unlined and closes with a hidden set side zipper and a hook & eye at the back of the neck. It has no tags but was purchased direct by my couture client. Proper interior tag and tagged a size 42. The cut is small through the upper bodice and arms hence the XS-SML size designation I have given it

Sleeves: 22"
Shoulders: no defined seams
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 58" from top of shoulder to hem
Slit: 33" from hem up

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3561

Reference Photos: (1) Vogue, December 1968.  /  (2-3) Valentino dresses, 1969.  /  (4-5) The re-issued Spring 2001 dress and credit from the book "A Grand Italian Epic: Valentino Garavani" by Taschen.  /  (6) Heidi Klum Valentino at the 2018 From Paris With Love Children’s Hospital Los Angeles Gala.  /  (7) Ruth Negga in Valentino, New York, 2018.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Bill Blass launched his label in 1970 when he bought out the Maurice Rentner label and re-launched it under his own name. The twin of this dress was photoed a year later for the September issue of Vogue on Donna Mitchell and I think that this photo has become one of the most famous shots of her and one of the best shots done for Vogue period. To have this in the shop is a bit of a holy grail for me personally as it is such a beautiful dress that I  have always loved. Blass was arguably one of the most famous of  the American designers. His forte was the ability to mix simple styles with luxurious materials and his evening wear in particular seemed to have a way of flattering the wearer. Even when the dress was as extravagant as this one is. He knew how to walk that line perfectly. This very early piece of his work and with its glamorous fabric, history and that dramatic feather collar, it is some of his very best work ever. 

The dress is stunning and besides the actual beauty of it as a dress, the fabric is one of the best textiles I have ever seen. It is a printed silk voile in a riotous colour palette of yellow, coral and black with dots of an extra soft plush chenille fused onto the surface. The chenille appliqué covers the entire dress from shoulder to hem and gives it the most amazing tactile feel. The dots also give the dress texture and a three dimensional quality. To offset the texture and extravagance of the print on that fabric, the actual lines of the dress are fairy simple The bodice skims over the bust to the seamed waist and the sleeves are long and straight with zippers at each cuff. The neckline is high and scooped. The skirt falls from the waist to the floor in a gentle widening line. At the neck it becomes all drama again. Here we see that famous feathered collar in all its glory. the collar is actually a separate piece on its own that hooks into place and I have provided photos of the dress with and without the collar. The feathers on the collar have been hand dyed to match the colours of the dress and there are hand dyed smaller feathers hand placed and attached onto the larger feathers to create the pattern that you see. The effect is amazing and it is even better on person and on an actual body as all the elements really come to life. It is really one of the most significant and dramatic pieces ever done by him. A true collectors piece. Excellent condition 

The entire dress including the sleeves is fully lined in a nude coloured silk. It closed with a back painted metal zipper and each cuff has a zipper to close. The collar is backed with a silk organza and hooks to close. There are a few tiny areas of thinning to the silk behind the feathers of the collar but these are extremely minor. Overall it appears to have been worn very little if at all. 

Sleeves: 23.5"
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 42" from waist to hem with 3.5" turned under the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3562

Reference Photo: Donna Mitchell in Bill Blass, Shot by Richard Avedon, Vogue US, September 1971.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The longer skirted version of this was presented as Look 38 of the Fall 2001 Haute Couture collection. For the runway it was shown with a full length evening skirt. My client ordered it with a more wearable pencil skirt length which gives it the added benefit of being able to be worn from day through to evening. The Fall 2001 collection was one of his final collections and to have a piece from this season is very special. Vogue noted that "Cocktail hour incorporated every possible variation on the tuxedo: There was a button-front dress, a smoking jacket that morphed into a full tulle skirt, and, naturally, an updated version of the masculine tux immortalized by Helmut Newton in the '70s." Yves play on the tuxedo and 'Le Smoking' suit is one of is most famous hallmarks  He first presented the now famous suit in 1966. His play on traditional menswear is lauded by many as 'having empowered women by giving them the option to wear clothes that were normally worn by men with influence and power'. 

I love the extra wide collar on this one. It is so bold and yet still elegant and refined in feel. There is nothing quite like slipping on a tailored piece of true haute Couture. It feels different somehow and the feeling is something you can only really experience for yourself. The construction is meticulous and it is in wonderful condition. It is sourced from the original couture client. These suits were all done in a play on a men's tux and then were shaped and tweaked by Yves to be immensely flattering on the female body. The cut is masterful and its simple appearance is produced by genius tailoring that is sharp and meticulous. The jacket is tailored with a sleek cut that follows the curves of the body. It is slightly cropped to sit just at the top of the hip. It has his signature matte satin tuxedo collar and on this one that line is exaggerated to cover almost the entire front of the bust area. Yves produced many versions of this suit over the years but what I find remarkable is that each version is distinct in how it closes at the front and the way that the collar is shaped. This one has a single faced, glossy jet button to close below that amazing collar. Two discreet pockets are top set on the hips and the shoulders are sharp and perfectly padded. The fabric that he chose is has a fine rubbing effect to it and it has enough weight that it holds the lines perfectly once it is on. The skirt is cut in a simple pencil shape. Once on, the suit transforms and you can see how beautiful the lines are from the runway photos and video that I have included here for reference. His suits change the way we approach woman's wear and any example of the Le Smoking version is particularly collectible. They are a particularly wonderful example of how strong his tailoring was and vision for a woman's place in the world. This is an important piece of fashion history from one of his final collections. Excellent condition

Both pieces are lined in a rich heavy black silk. The jacket has a single button at the front to close. The skirt has a zipper and hook & eye at the waist. Two pockets on the jacket. All hand finished to couture standards. It looks to have been worn very little if at all. All Haute Couture tags present and it was sourced from the original couture client 

Jacket
Sleeves: 23"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23" from neck to hem at the front, 22 at the back

Skirt
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD3559

Reference Photos: Diana Gärtner for Yves Saint Laurent Fall 2001 Haute Couture Runway Collection. Look 38.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

In 1951, 27 year old James Galanos launched his first label called Galanos Originals.  By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. That said, his ready-to-wear was made to almost true couture and were made with a level of craftsmanship that was on par with the French couturiers. Galanos was a master cutter and draper and he used many couture techniques in the construction of his dresses and gowns. Grace Kelly was an early fan. His work is held in all of the major museums around the world and he is one of my personal favourite designers. 

The label on this dress is one of his earlier ones and when researching the date I found a dress in the Met Museum's collection with the same label and that uses the same technique for the way that the skirt is set into the bodice of the dress. The dress in the Met's collection was also photoed for Vogue that year. I have included both those for reference and it gives you a great idea of how this dress will look on the body. In the Vogue description the skirt was described as being; 'narrow in outline, but with beautiful easy folds from the waist, falling in self contained spirals' which is a lovely way to describe the way that it is set into the dress. I love that my version has a more bare shouldered feel to it and how the bright floral print covers the entire dress and adds a real wow factor it. It also gives it a bit more of an easy, tropical feel then the more formal version held at The Met. The fabric is a beautiful light weight silk that is completely covered with the large flower print that you see. The colours in the print are spectacular and combine a bright orange, yellow and green on a black backdrop.The skirt is cut so that it gathers up and into the middle of the dress. This gives it that lovely curved line at the front and the draping down each side that you see. It also creates a touch of volume across each hip which makes your waist look smaller. The bodice is suspended by tiny straps made out of the same silk. The front has a wide set scooped neck and the back is the same. The back of the dress closes with a series of buttons that run from the nape of the neck to the waist with a zipper set under that. It is seriously gorgeous on and gives you curves while feeling very forgiving. It really showcases just what a genius he was. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a black silk chiffon. It closes with a low painted metal zipper at the waist and then has a row of buttons above that. Bias cut so there is a little play with the measurements which I have given below. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.

Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from shoulder to waist
Skirt: 44" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3555

Reference Photos: (1) F/W 1957 James Galanos Dress in The Met Collection.  /  (2) Model in James Galanos photographed by Irving Penn for Vogue, October 1957.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The twin of this dress was showcased in a special presentation for the InStyle & "A Diamond is Forever" Sneak Peek at Red Carpet Fashion for the 2004 Awards Season. I have included photos from that so that you can see just how gorgeous this dress is once on. This is definitely one of the prettiest Oscar dresses I have ever had in the shop 

The dress is a dream. It is made out of a yellow printed silk chiffon that has a soft green fern print scattered across its surface. It has a soft rounded shape to the upper bodice and the silk is draped over the torso to fall down and around you in gentle draping that goes from the top of the bust to just below the hips. I love how it is scooped up at the middle and the skirt is set in and under the draped bodice. The skirt has a ton of volume to it that shows best when you move. It has four full sets of ruffled tiers that fall softly to the floor. The lightness of the silk causes the ruffles on the skirt to move with the slightest bit of air. When this is on and you are walking the effect that this creates is absolutely gorgeous. It is held in place by the straps that come up and out of the front bodice and wrap around and hook behind the beck. This is made out of the same silk as the dress. This strip of detailing is gathered in a ruffle and the edges are left raw. Then, set along the entire length of the ruffle are little hand made flowers. This extra little detail is fabulous and adds an extra element of romance and femininity. This is Oscar at his best and a tremendously beautiful dress. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition. 

The bodice and torso are lined in a matching deep yellow silk. The ruffles of the skirt are set on top of the same silk chiffon so you get a touch of transparency as they move. It closes with an inner zipper to close the built in boned inner support and then a second hidden set zipper over that to close the exterior dress. The straps hook to close behind the neck. Lightly boned through the inner bodice. Inner waist stay hooks to close. Hand finishes through out 

Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 59" from top of neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD5556

Reference Photos: Model wearing Oscar de la Renta for the InStyle & "A Diamond is Forever" Sneak Peek at Red Carpet Fashion for the 2004 Awards Season, January 2004.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is an exceptional example of Valentino's Haute Couture work from the early 1990s. Finding true couture pieces from this time period in such immaculate condition and so well documented is a rarity and and I am very pleased to have this beautiful evening suit in the shop. The set comes directly from the original couture client and is in immaculate condition. It was ordered from the runway collection as presented in 1994. It was shown on Helena Christensen on the runway with just the jacket and skirt. My client also ordered the matching silk top to go with it. Having the reference shots gives you a wonderful way to see the suit how it looks worn on its own and with the top under it as on my dress form. 

Each of the three pieces that make up this set is exquisite and would be an amazing vintage find on its own. The suit itself is true to the runway. The skirt is cut to hug the hips and then flares out in a wide 11" band of silk at the bottom hem. The silk has been folded into sharp pleats and then set into the skirt so that by the time they reach the hem they open and swirl and curve around you. The movement this creates is wonderful. Over this is that stunning jacket that is cut and tailored to perfection. The soft set shoulders have just a suggestion of padding. It falls from those shoulders and gently widens out and away from the body. This gives the detailing on the jacket an uninterrupted line to be displayed on. The hem of the jacket ends in a rounded curving edge and then under that is a panel of the same pleated silk that finishes the skirt. It layers over the top portion of the skirt and the tiered effect it creates is stunning. The detailing on the jacket is extensive and the pattern combines insets of black silk and silk velvet with hand beading. Glass tube beads are densely applied by hand around the insets and these run from the hem to just about the bust area and all the way around the jacket. Each sleeve is finished with the same treatment. It is insanely beautiful. My client also ordered the matching pleated silk taffeta top to go under the jacket and it is remarkable in its own right. When worn under the jacket it is cut so that the top two pleated tier and collar lie perfectly over the jacket's neckline. That top tier is cut at the back in a way so that it sits perfectly in place so that it can be worn like this. The front of the top has a high ruffled collar and then there are three tiers of silk set on a slight curve at the front. A velvet strop runs down the centre with glossy black dome buttons. These are set on the upper part of the top and then hidden snaps close the bottom part. Each cuff is finished with a pleated ruffle. You can wear everything together or mix and match any of the pieces with what you have in your wardrobe. This is a very special documented set and a fantastic way to add a piece of real Haute Couture to your closet. It is absolutely beautiful. Excellent condition

The top is unlined and the jacket and skirt are lined in a fine black silk. The skirt zips to close at the side and then hooks at the waist. The jacket closes with the glossy black dome buttons as seen and hand set silk loops. The top buttons to close and has hidden set snaps from where the buttons end to the bottom of the front. My client had the pleat that runs around the the of the jacket made so that it can be removed and worn without the ruffle which makes it even more versatile. Made with Haute Couture techniques and by hand. Hand done detailing on the jacket. It looks to have never been worn or worn very little 

Top
Sleeves: 24"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 26.5" from neck to first hem, 32.5" to the end of the pleated hem

Jacket
Sleeves: 22"
Shoulders: 16"
Bust: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 22.5" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 21.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3554

Reference Photos: Helena Christensen for the Fall 1994 Valentino Haute Couture Runway Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The dress comes directly from the original couture client and is in immaculate condition. It was ordered and made on the same time 1985 period as the crystal bow dress I am listing today. This is an exceptional example of Valentino's Haute Couture work that he was doing during the 1980s. Finding pieces from this time period in such immaculate condition is a rarity and I am very pleased to have this beautiful dress in the shop. I am also pleased to have found a reference photo to fully document and date it on Christy Turlington from the November issue of Vogue 1986

This dress is divine. The lines of it are beautiful and as good as it looks on the dress form it is perfection on an actual body. Couture pieces are very difficult to truly show in a photo as they are meant to highlight and show off the body and only truly come to life when worn. The bodice of this dress is made from an inky black silk velvet. It is fitted and nipped in at the waist. One shoulder is left bare and the other is encased in a sheath of velvet. The sleeve is cut to the wrist and the shoulder is set to be high and capped with a pretty gathered seam set on an angle on both the front and the back. The shoulder pad underneath is hand formed so that it is rounded to flow and exaggerate the curve of the shoulder. The skirt is wonderful. It is set into the waist in a series of soft pleats that help to give it the fullness that you see. It is very full and cut with a nod to the skirts of the fifties. It is made from a gunmetal silk taffeta that has wide panels of velvet flocking fused to its surface. These wrap around the skirt in three bands starting just under the waist and ending just above the hem. The inner construction of the skirt is amazing. The outermost layer is backed in a silk organza and all of the seams are hand finished along their edges. Set inside the skirt is that startling emerald green silk taffeta underskirt that is built into the dress. It falls below the hips and then has a second ruffled piece nearer the hem for fullness. This is placed into the interior by hand and backed in silk. There is a wide strip of stiffened net running though the two inner hems. It is cut very full to give the skirt its shape and volume. Plus the unexpected flash of green when you move a certain way or sit is fantastic. It feels very tactile on to have all these skirt swirling around you as you move. It really is wonderful and an amazing example of his earlier Haute Couture work. Excellent condition. 

The bodice, skirt and underskirts are all lined and backed in silk. The sleeve is self backed. Done with Haute Couture construction techniques and it closes with a hidden set metal zipper at the side and then has silk covered snaps and a secondary zipper on the side of the skirt. I have photoed this for you. Inner waist stay hooks to close. Hand made padding on the shoulder and light boning at the side of the bodice around the zipper. A fine metal zipper to close the end of the sleeve. Built in underskirt with stiffened inset at the edges as described above. 

Sleeve: 22.5"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15.5" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 31.5" from waist to hem with 4.5" turned under the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3553

Reference Photo: Christy Turlington in Valentino, Vogue, November 1986.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The twin of this dress was worn by Yasmin Warsame on the runway that season and you can see just how fabulous the dress moves. The key pieces from this collection, including this dress, were sold out or waitlisted around the globe despite their high price tags. Sarah Mower of Vogue said of the spring show: "In a season when India is inspiring so many collections, Etro—which uses a paisley print as its brand identity—is more entitled than most to roam the subcontinent. Sure enough, that's where the collection went, but via the seventies hippie route." This dress was mentioned specifically; "One of the standouts—which could make a lovely entrance at any party—was a long, flowing seventies-style dress with belled sleeves, detailed with pinwheel pleating in the Empire bodice."

This was Look 19 in the show and is truly fabulous. It is very flowing and beautiful and I would hazard to say that it is one of the stand out Etro pieces from any of their collections to date. It almost has the lines of an Ossie Clark and the print of a Zandra Rhodes. The top portion drapes over the bust and has a deep V at the front. The fabric has been gathered in and there is a topstitched pin tuck circle there that is quite wonderful and a unique detailing. Long attached ties sit on either some of the waist and they are long enough that you can leave them draped down the back or bring around to the front and wrap them around you. The skirt flows from under there in a pretty soft expanse of silk. There is a great deal of fabric in the skirt and this is what creates that wonderful movement as you move. At the back the dress closes with a tightly spaced row of silk covered buttons and loops. A tremendous amount of work and detailing. The sleeves are spectacular. each is cut extremely long so that once n they are caught up and the wrist the fabric over just drapes snapped flowers around the arm. The silk chiffon is a beautiful quality and light as a feather. Excellent condition.

The bodice and sleeves are unlined the skirt has an inner lining of an ivory silk. It closes At the back the dress closes with a tightly spaced row of silk covered buttons and loops. There is perhaps the slightest smudge under one arm near the seam but look to have been worn very little. Any yellow areas on the dress are lighting. In person the black part off the print is a true black and the white chiffon is white. The underskirt through the skirt has a touch of a cream color to it. Tagged a modern 44

Sleeves to the end of the actual cuff is 32" and then the extend from there. They do of course come up once on
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15" flat across from side seam to side seam and ties in with the ties
Inner hips: to 24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 43" from waist to front hem, 46" to the back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3551

Reference Photos: Yasmin Warsame for Etro Spring 2005, Look 19.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

In 1996, the same year this gown was made, Hanae Mori was awarded the Order of Culture by the Emperor of Japan. This after a long and lustrous career that included becoming the first Japenese women to become a member of Le Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne in 1977. In the Encyclopedia of Fashion they say of her work:

"....examples used bright hot colors, juxtaposed in one ensemble to provide interest, bringing a strong Japanese feel to their narrow hues, frequently harking back to the kimono for their silhouette and cut. It is in this area that her work is most inspired, bringing together European tailoring and Japanese color and ideals of beauty. She uses the Japanese love of asymmetry to further develop her style and the linear patterns she prints onto her distinctive silks. She exploits the natural appeal of such fabrics with a well-defined sense of cut to illuminate her realistic styles. By doing so, Mori is providing both an alternative to and a definite rejection of the type of elaborate couture confections that mold the female form into fantastical shapes, ignoring the woman beneath the fabric.......The designer is also a favorite of the Japanese royal family and Thailand's Queen Sirikit."

To find a true piece of her Haute Couture is exceedingly rare and when the design is as beautiful as this one is, it just makes it that much more special. This is couture on the highest level with everything about the piece deliberate and constructed to work as a whole. It is made of the finest silk and silk chiffon. The design is one of her signature custom prints that she helped to develop. Along the hem of the skirt there is also a hand painted detailing layered on top of the print. Bead work has been hand applied to the silk chiffon bodice to follow the black and white pattern on the underlying silk. The skirt wraps and secures over, draping around the hips and legs in a beautiful swath of silk. At one side of the waist she works in a touch of the East with the bow that you see. Underneath is a short mini skirt that is built in and has just the slightest touch of padding at the back. This gives shape around the hip and I feel it is also a subtle nod to the bustle pad. The top is semi-transparent and zips to close from the waist. It can be left open more to give a deeper plunge. I photos most of the shots with the zipper left a little open and included one with it fully closed. The shocking flash of brilliant turquoise under the skirt and lining the bow along with the high slit created by the wrapped effect are the perfect finishes. Great condition with a note to review below

The skirt is lined in a brilliant turquoise silk and the interior partial skirt is lined in black silk. The bodice and sleeves are unlined. The bodice closes with a front zipper. Her signature tiny fabric covered snaps sit at each cuff. There minor loss and loose beads on the top. Please see the photo after the label shots for the worst area. Completely made by hand as per the the standards of Haute Couture. Numbered tag underneath labeled "HC 1363 (perhaps the first number is a 7?) Pe 6-12-96"

Sleeves: 26"
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 53" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD2363

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is from the famous Russian collection from the Fall 1976 Collection and these are rare and hard to find. The now legendary 'Opéra Les Ballets Russes' Haute Couture collection by Yves Saint Laurent for that season was one that took the fashion world by storm and has been endlessly re-interpreted since. Stylist Catherine Baba has the twin of this coat and versions have been well documented. The Met has a fabric version in their collection and the suede version was photoed for Vogue that season. This was a key look of the season and highly collectible. 

The coat is in exceptional condition and looks to have been worn very little if at all. The leather is soft supple and the color is a deep chocolate. The inner bodice has been lined in a sheared sheepskin that is very soft and fine and has been dyed to a deep chocolate color to match the leather. The sheared sheepskin is set to follow the front edges and goes all the way around the neck and down the front. There is also a a band of it set within each cuff. The lines of the coat are pure Yves from this time period. The neckline is cut high on the front to curve gracefully around the neck. The shoulders are set high with gathers so that they have a slight capped feel to them. Under the top portion of the coat the lower portion of the jacket is set into the waist seam and done like a proper skirt would be with slight gathers along the top so that it has some fullness. Inside the coat the upper bodice is lined with the sheared fur and the lower part of the skirt is lined in a quilted fabric.  I love how all the edges are top stitched with a deep red thread, placed to emphasize the lines of the coat and add to its Russian feel. This wide panel of red top stitching runs all the way down the front, around the collar and finishes each cuff. Highly polished buttons close the coat down the front. It really transforms when on a real girl and is just wonderful. Amazing and rare piece of fashion history. Excellent condition.

The upper bodice and cuffs are lined in fur and the sleeves and skirting of the coat are lined in quilting. It closes with the buttons at the front. Tagged a vintage YSL 44

Sleeves: 24"
Shoulders: 16"
Bust: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 47" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# C404

Reference Photos: (1) The Peasant Collection 1976 as photographed by American Vogue  /  (2) Coat from the MET  /  (3) Yves Saint Laurent Runway.  /  (4) Catherine Baba at the S/S 2017 Haute Couture Shows in Paris. (Top Photo by Nabile Quenum; Bottom Photo by Phil Oh)

I have a small collection of historically important, key designer labelled vintage furs, fur trimmed & feather pieces stored away in my archives that I will be slowly posting on the site over the next couple of years until I have none left. I will no longer be buying furs for the shop moving forward and have not purchased anything for several years now. I feel like times have changed and while there still is a place for vintage furs for some, including collectors and historians, many modern girls are choosing other options. Many of the pieces in my collection are representative of the designer during a set time period in history that was different then our modern outlook. I have decided that the best course to handle this controversial issue is to let the pieces I have go rather then sit in a cold storage unit. All fur coats, fur trimmed & feather pieces are final sale

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

A version of this coat walked the runway for the Fall 1982 Haute Couture show and the cloth version was photoed for Vogue Italia that season. Most importantly, a photo of Catherine Deneuve was taken in a version of the coat allowing us to see just how wearable the coat is despite its avant grade and bold lines. The dramatic and huge sleeve detailing was an important element for that season. This is a rare and collectible piece. 

A version of this piece walked the Haute Couture runway that season and that combined with the other documentation on it are able to give you an idea of how spectacular the coat is in person. It is made out of a soft, supple leather that has been dyed to a deep brown. The bodice of the coat is meant to follow the lines of the body and then curve down into a slightly dropped waist seam. He has treated the lower portion of the coat like a true skirt and it is set into the seam of the waist in soft gathers. This helps to give it the fullness that you see in the photos. Pockets sit on each side of the hip. The collar is high and neat. It sits above a dramatic double row of polished hand carved wood buttons. They are large and sit in a double row of six buttons that down the front to just past the waist seam. These same buttons are then used on each sleeve. The sleeves are incredible and at the time were probably startling to see on the runway with their excessive fullness. They still feel dramatic even now. Each is cut on a rounded curve that starts at the shoulder and curves down the arm to the cuff. They are very full and wide. Six of the polished and hand carved wood buttons are hand set down the extended cuff whose overlapped edging goes right up to the elbow. Those sleeve and how they are cut are really a testament to his genius. Each button is fully functional which shows you just how much care and detail was put into the piece. Despite it being leather, the coat has been made with the same care as if it was fabric, which would have been a very innovative approach to leather for this time period. It is absolutely stunning and very rare. Excellent condition with a small note below.

Fully lined and closes at the front with the buttons as seen. All the buttons, including the ones on each sleeve are functional. Pockets on each hip. There is some minor discolouration on the inner lining. The fabric used for it tends to change colour over time so it is a natural progression of aging. One small and minor scuff to the leather next to the collar on the upper shoulder. Please see the photo after the label shot 

Sleeves: 27"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 47" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# C402

Reference Photos: (1-2) Yves Saint Laurent F/W 1982 Runway.  /  (3) F/W 1982 Yves Saint Laurent Runway in the book "Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Catwalk".  /  (4) Outfits by Yves Saint Laurent, Vogue Italia, September 1981.  /  (5) Catherine Deneuve

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The twin of this set walked the runway for the Fall 1977 Christian Dior Haute Couture collection. It was also used in a Vogue editorial and photoed by Roland Bianchini that season. In the 'Dior Catwalk' book, journalist Alexander Fury references this suit specifically in his write up for that season saying; "The designers autumn/winter collections proposed a series of equally glamorous ensembles, including the 'white silk jacquard pants suit with the white fox, white pearls and bareness underneath - a soft white camisole' that Vogue predicted would be the 'sure fire' bestseller that season. Trouser suit aficionado Bianca Jagger was in the audience and 'said she loved everything''. It is exceptional and a wonderful example of the work that Marc Bohan was doing for the house during this time period.

The set is made from a beautiful ivory colored silk that has a secondary pattern woven through it. That pattern is made up of little abstract shapes and I love that every once in a while one of the shapes in that design look like a little heart. The pants are cut with a straight leg so that they have a soft flow to them. Pockets lie along the seams on each hip. The jacket is a simple, almost box cut that ends just at the hip to perfectly balance the line of the pants. It can be worn open like it was shown on the runway or fully closed. I love the clear lucite buttons with their little silver capped tops that run down the front. They are the only embellishment on the piece and give it a subtle bit of glitz. On the front of the jacket there are three top set pockets for detailing. Each sleeve buttons to close and on the runway these were left open and flipped back for an easy feel. This is a true piece of fashion history and an amazing example of Bohan's work during this time period. It is even better in person. All proper Haute Couture labels present. Excellent condition with some small notes to review below.

Both pieces are fully lined. The jacket in a rich cream silk satin and the pants are lined in a slightly lighter version of the same silk. The set is entirely made by hand. The jacket buttons to close and pants close with a front painted metal zipper and hook & eye at the waist. Pockets on the jacket and pants. The pants have a slight line of a yellow mark at the lower front right leg near the hem. The jacket shows slight discoloration under the arms on the inside lining that does not go through. There is the very slightest darkening to the edge of the collar. All minor and it presents as excellent. Please see the photos provided after the label shot

Jacket
Sleeves: 21"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23.5" from neck to hem

Pants
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 41" from waist to hem with 2.25" turned under the hems
Inseam: 30.5"

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Reference Photos: (1) Christian Dior A/W Haute Couture 1977 Runway Show.  /  (2)  Christian Dior A/W Haute Couture 1977 Runway Show from the book "Dior Catwalk: The Complete Collections".  /  (3) Photo by Albert Watson, Vogue, October 1977.  /  (4) Photo by Roland Bianchini, Dior, 1977.

Item# DD2793

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.