
yves saint laurent
Fall 1979 Yves Saint Laurent Unlabled Haute Couture Black Silk Dress w Sequin & Rhinestone Detailing
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This is an incredible Haute Couture dress that came to me from the niece of the original couture client and is unlabeled. In our hunt for more information on it we found the runway photos from the 1979 Yves Saint Laurent dress and you instantly see that it is its twin in all ways except for the length. It is always the prerogative of the couture client to change some elements of the dress to suit their needs and in this case, this woman attended many functions where a full length dress was required. She frequented the Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy and Ungaro ateliers. She often removed the labels to avoid customs and it is fantastic to be able to verify which designer and collection this one is from as many of the records she kept were lost. The dress is completely made by hand to Haute Couture standards and it is incredible. I love having the runway photos so that you can see just how amazing it is in the body.
The dress is made from a crisp black silk and this fabric choice allows it to hold those beautiful lines that you see. It's beautiful shape is a testament to the level of workmanship that you only see in true couture pieces. At the front the neckline dips into a V and the dress is vertically seamed to follow the curves of the body. The sleeves are amazing. Each is cut on a curve to follow the shape of the arm in the traditional manner of making a sleeve. They are set into the shoulders with a beautiful series of soft pleats so that you get a bit of volume at the shoulder. They puff out slightly around the upper arm and then narrow down at their ends. At the back the dress scoops low to give you a bare expanse of skin. The back has a low set seam under the open scoop and this allows the top of the back skirt to lift slightly off and away from the body. A tiny detail that feels very sensual on the body. That same seam curves around the hips and angles up towards the waist at the front and then the skirt at the front is cut on a stunning curve that widens out as it reaches the hem. The back is fuller and it also falls a touch longer to give it the feel of it sweeping out behind you. Built in underneath the skirt is a ruffled black silk net underskirt and when you move or sit you see just a peek of the ruffle around the inner hem. Built inside the top of the inner skirt are layers of silk net that help to hold the fullness around the hips. The dress is detailed with hand applied sequins to form little varying sized circles that run over the entire bodice, the waist and the top part of the skirt. Two types of sequins have been used, tiny silver sequins one and others that are an iridescent pale blue. The blue ones catch the light and range in colour from silver to an ice blue. It is incredible. Mixed into that are some circles that are made from little glass crystal beads. All are hand applied and the entire dress is completely hand made to couture standards. I have taken some detail shots of the interior seams for you to see the fine Haute Couture workmanship inside. It is an incredible piece and just beautifully made. Excellent condition with a small note below
The bodice is unlined and the skirt is fully lined with a built in underskirt in a black silk net and taffeta. Built in panniers around the hip area that I have photoed. It closes with a hand set back zipper and the skirt snaps into place with silk covered snaps over that. Hidden set zippers at each wrist. Hand finished throughout. There is the occasional sequin or crystal missing on the dots here and there and I have photoed one area for you to see as an example. Please see the last detail photo for that. Unlabeled. Made to Haute Couture standards with a tremendous amount of detail put into its construction.
Sleeves: 24"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 58" from top of shoulder to front hem, 60" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD3677
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Ady Couture
1982 Ady for Givenchy Haute Couture Gold Silk Taffeta Dress w Hand Done Sequin Detailing
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This is an incredible Haute Couture dress that came to me from the niece of the original couture client, In our hunt for more information on it we found the runway photos from the 1982 Givenchy Haute Couture presentations and you instantly see that it is its twin in all ways. I love having the runway photos so that you can see just how amazing it is in the body. This dress was made by hand in the atelier of Ady Couture who was based in Lausanne Switzerland. Ady herself was a couture trained seamstress and headed a team who had full permission of the Haute Couture houses she worked with to make the designs they showed in Paris for clients based in Switzerland and the surrounding areas. She would purchase the couture fabrics from the couture houses along with the patterns and then make the actual dresses in her atelier. This arrangement with the couture houses was a way to work around customs during this time period and do fittings for clients unable to travel to Paris. So far we have verified that she had this arrangement with Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy and Ungaro. There may have been others but those are the four labels we have documentation on from the runway.
The dress is made from a deep copper gold silk taffeta and this fabric choice allows it to hold those stunning lines and volume that you see. It is absolutely beautiful and a testament to the level of design that you only see in couture pieces. The colour of the silk is even better in person. I have managed to almost capture it in these photos but in person it is even richer feeling then what you see here. At the front the neckline is set in a simple high scoop. The bodice is cut to skim over your curves and is simple in cut. The sleeves are incredible. Each one is set on a curve to follow the shape of the arm in the traditional manner of dressmaking. They are set into the shoulders with a beautiful series of soft pleats so that you get a bit of volume at the shoulder. They puff out slightly around the upper arm and then narrow down at their ends. The waist is seamed and the skirt is gathered all the way around the waist in a series of soft pleats. These puff out from the waist slightly and this little couture trick gives the illusion that the waist is smaller then it is. On the runway it was shown with a black velvet bow and I have added one to emulate that same look. The skirt is one of the best skirts I have seen both from a design point of view and by its level of construction. It is made into two attached sections. The top comes out from the pleats all around the waist and it poufs out around you. A seam brings the skirt in and then the lower part of the skirt falls to the floor from there. That second tier has many yards of silk in it so that it flares out as it reached the hem. Between the two sections is a wide velvet ribbon that wraps around the seam and ties into a bow at the side. Which beautifully picks up on the bow around the waist. All of the volume and shape that you see is created through the way it is cut and the fabric choice. The skirt does not have extensive underskirts to shape it. The silk of the skirts are lined in a silk organza to help give support but it is really the genius of the cut itself that creates the shape. An elaborate and intricate floral design runs across the front and back of the bodice and down each sleeve. Hand done embroidery work is combined with tiny black sequins and hand applied beads. It is some of the finest hand work I have seen. Inside the dress is completely finished to couture standards with every seam finished by hand. I have taken some detail shots for you to see the fine workmanship inside. It is an incredible piece and absolutely beautifully made. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
The bodice is fully lined in a matching gold toned silk and the skirt is fully lined with a slightly gold tinged silk organza. It closes with a hand placed back zipper and the skirt snaps into place with silk covered snaps over that. Hidden set zippers at each wrist. Hand finished throughout. The velvet ribbon out is not original to the piece but will be included. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Made to Haute Couture standards with a tremendous amount of detail put into its construction. It is a slightly softer gold copper in person then how it photoed.
Sleeves: 26"
Slightly inset shoulders: 13.5"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15.5" from shoulder to waist
Length: 42" from waist to front hem, 45" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD3685
Reference Photos: Fall 1982 Givenchy Couture Runway.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

christian lacroix
Incredible Fall 1990 Christian Lacroix Haute Couture Silk Runway Backless Dress w Jewel Detailing
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I recently saw a near twin of this dress at auction and it sold for about this price after fees and exchange. That one did not include the two jewel brooches that this one has. It is incredible to have a complete example of this one that is more a true twin to the runway. Christian Lacroix launched his Haute Couture house in 1987 and was an instant worldwide sensation with the press declaring him to be the 'King of Couture'. His collections were exotic and he mixed patterns and line in a way that had never been done before. His inspiration often came from the past and I doubt there was ever a more high glamour couturier.
This dress is very special and a stunning example of his work during this time period. It has all the signature Lacroix drama that you could ask for. It is from the original couture client who was fitted by Christian himself which makes it that much more special. My client ordered this one in a slightly different shade of silk then that dress that walked the runway and the colour of the stones in the jeweled brooches were made to match this colour. I lovee this colour more then the one on the runway as it has a touch more depth to it and is more flattering in a wider range of skin tones.
The dress is made out of an iridescent silk taffeta that has a slight colour change to it depending on how the light hits it. It can go from felling like a deep bronze colour to a more iridescent blue / purple tone. I love it. The sleeves are long and there is a row of five silk covered buttons at each wrist. The body of the dress is cut to skim over you. It is gathered at one side at the front and here we see the first incredible brooch. The brooch is hand made from a gold toned metal with large golden topaz glass crystals mixed with brilliant blue glass stones. The neckline is cut to slant down on that same side with a fold of fabric set around you. It is cut wide across the shoulders and is meant to sit slightly off one shoulder to leave that bare expanse of skin showing. At the back the neckline dips and angles down into a deep offset V that leaves your back bare and exposed. Another huge jeweled piece sits at the base of that V. Below that a stiffened panel of silk flares out dramatically to one side to give it a half bow, half bustle feel. The skirt is cut straight and depending in your height will sit at about the knee or just above. Excellent condition with a couple of small notes below
Fully lined in a black silk organza and closes with an elaborate mix of a zipper, snaps and hooks at the back. One flaring panel loops through the other. There is fused rubber ribbon along the inner neckline to hold it in place and this has changed colour here and there. One stone is missing at the bottom of the front brooch. The brooches are removable and you can see little marks on the fabric under them where the pin has been pushed through in different places. There are a couple teeny pinhead marks on the fabric where the brooches have caught on the silk near the brooches. These are all very minor and mentioned for accuracy. Unlabeled. Sourced from the original couture client and Mr Lacroix has mentioned to me on insta that he remembers fitting her.
Sleeves: 19.5"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 36" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD3602
Reference Photos: Fall/Winter 1990 Christian Lacroix Haute Couture Runway.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

tiziani
Incredible 1960s Tiziani Couture by Karl Lagerfeld Yellow Silk Chiffon Dress w Elaborate Beading
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This dress is from the archive of the couture house Tiziani. The Tiziani atelier was founded in 1963 by Evans Richards an American who moved to Rome to pursue his fashion dreams. Elizabeth Taylor quickly became a regular client along with Doris Duke, Gina Lollobrigida and Principessa Borghese to name a few. The label is also famous because of the fact that as a young designer Karl Lagerfeld accepted a job there. Lagerfeld worked at Tiziani from 1963 to 1969. This is from that era and is a stunning examples of Karl's early design years. My client originally bought it at an auction several years ago directly from the current owner of the archive. This is an incredible dress and an incredible piece of fashion history.
The dress is made from a very pretty pale yellow silk chiffon that is as light as air and gives the dress its incredible movement. The silk is used for the sleeves and skirt and then the bodice has been heavily and densely beaded. It is incredible to see in person and this is the level of workmanship that you were only find in a vintage piece anymore. The pattern is created in several layers. The silk base has a honeycomb design created by hand with a real metal wire sewn onto the silk. Prong set glass rhinestones are scattered over that. The bead work is set in round intricate medallions that cover the entire bodice at the front and the back. Each medallion is made from beads sequence and large shaped pailettes. In the center of each is an intricate 3-D flower and these are done in different colours of silver and pink. The bead work is extremely fine. The very top edge of the bodice is finished in a row of dangling beads that match the beads in the center of the medallions. These have just a touch of movement when you move. The bead work wraps over the shoulders and continues across the full back. Along the sides he has left part of the pale yellow silk which I found very interesting. It almost makes it feel like a breast plate or armoured vest over the silk chiffon and this is an idea that he continue to use throughout his career. The sleeves are very full and cascade out from a softly pleated shoulder. This gives them extreme fullness and they pouf out fantastically above the cuffed wrists. They are not lined so you get this fabulous touch of transparency through them. The skirt has many many yards of chiffon in its construction so that it feels like it is floating around you when you move. I have included some photos of myself sitting in the dress and you can see how many yards of silk are around me. It is tremendously wonderful to move in. The very bottom of the skirt is finished with a thin strip of stiffening fabric that has been hand rolled inside a tiny hem. This creates a ruffled ribbon effect and the hem curves and swirls beautifully. The work on this dress is meticulous and by hand. It is an amazing piece of fashion history. Excellent condition with a minor note to review below
Fully lined in a hand set yellow silk through bodice and the skirt has an inner skirt that is made of silk and then covered in silk chiffon. It closes with a hand set back zipper. Each cuff buttons to close. Hand work throughout and hand finished inner seams. Unlabeled. There is just the start of some fraying to the inner edge of the top at the shoulders and a tiny bit of darkening under the arms inside the bodice. Please see the final two detail photos. There is couple of really faint darkened areas in the silk here and there but you really have to look for them. Perhaps a touch of grubbiness here and there to the very edges of the hem.
Sleeves: 25"
Shoulders: approx 15.5"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 60" from shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD3499
Reference Photos: Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

john anthony
Incredible 1970s John Anthony Glossy Black Completely Hand Beaded Runway Sample Dress
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John has dived into his archives once more for me and today I have two more of the dresses he sent for you with one last one to come still. This is a runway piece from the early seventies just after he launched his label. Like the ivory coloured one already in the shop, the bead work on the dress was done by hand by Madame Gandini, who did beading for many of the Couture houses of the day. John is one of my favorite American designers and right out of the gate he won the Coty Award for his work. The first time in 1972 and then again in 1976. He designed clothes that were simple and elegant but glamorous. His work veers towards minimalism with sharp tailoring. Striking evening wear was his signature and he is renowned for his cutting and tailoring. It is an extraordinary privilege to have pieces directly from his archives and these are things you will never see again.
John's business was all done on a made to order basis. That means the majority of pieces you will find are a one-off, or if there are similar pieces, very few of each piece exist. This personal attention to each dress is clearly seen in the workmanship of his pieces. His work is very expensive and beaded pieces like this sold for over $10,000 even in the 1970s. If you convert that to modern dollars you get to about $68,000 which is incredibly still less then a modern couture pieces done to this level would be. Having this actual runway samples that John pulled from his own archives to share with you is just amazing.
This is an amazing dress that is heavily and densely beaded. The base of the gown is made of an black silk chiffon and then onto that are thousands of vertical rows of glossy black glass tube beads laid out in to fully cover every square inch of the dress. The dress is already spectacular on its own and the addition of the thousands and thousands of glass tube beads give the dress an extra layer of texture and glamour. Every square inch of the dress catches the light and sparkles. As a result the dress is fairly heavy off the body. We weighed it and it is almost 10 pounds because of that extensive bead-work. Yet once on the body it perfectly drapes over you in a way that it is balanced and not at all unwieldy. The impact of all those beads from head to toe is stunning in the light. If you even remotely love it in the photos you will gasp to see it in real life. This needs a body to give it a life of its own and the camera cannot capture just how gorgeous it is and how the beads catch the light. The cut is sublimely simple. The bodice has a high collar and the bead work there is done in a slightly different pattern so that it has just a bit of added detailing. The rest of the dress falls from there in a beautiful column of beads to skim over you all the way to the floor. There is just a suggestion of the waist and it skims over the hips. The sleeves are long and equally as simply. They have that same slightly different bead work to give them a cuffed detail that is perfect. The back is just one long column of the bead work. The skirt widens out just a touch as it nears the hem and there is an extremely high slit up the back. You don't get as much sense of it in these photos but once on the body this really adds a high flash of bare leg as you walk away. It is insanely sexy. As good as it photoed, the effect that this dress has once it is on an actual body is far more dramatic and fabulous. If you even remotely love it in the photos you will dance when you see it in person as it is so much better in real life. It is completely made by hand and you would never be able to find its modern equivalent. It is stunning. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a black silk chiffon and it closes at the back with a metal and nylon zipper. Hand finished throughout. As noted above it has a good weight to it since it is fully beaded from top to bottom with glass beads but feels balanced when on and comfortable. There is perhaps the occasional bead missing here and there but no bare areas. Numbered sample tag on the inner hem.
Sleeves: 22" and 10" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 59" from neck to hem
Back Slit: 30.5" from hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-SML
Item# DD4404
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

christian lacroix
Prettiest Spring 1996 Christian Lacroix Haute Couture Runway Three Piece Set w Jewel Buttons
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The twin of this set walked the runway and was worn by none other then Carla Bruni. Which makes this suit that much more special. It also still has all three of its original pieces and I love that as well. Christian Lacroix launched his Haute Couture house in 1987 and his work was an instant worldwide sensation with the press declaring him to be the King of Couture. A ready-to-wear line soon followed along with perfumes and menswear. His collections were always exotic and lavish affairs. He drew his inspirations from across the decades and I doubt there was ever a more high glamour couturier. This suit with its supermodel tie-in is very special and a stunning example of his work during this time period. His couture pieces rarely come to market and I love having them in the shop when I can get them.
I love that this still has all three original pieces. It came to me with the jacket, skirt and the inner silk top that matches the lining of the jacket. Which is a very traditional Haute Couture detail. Having all three pieces makes it that much more versatile since you can mix and match all of pieces and wear them in so many different ways. The inner top is made of a silk with a abstract vertical wavy pattern in ivory, pale blue and pastel lavender. That exact same silk is used to line the jacket so when you wear the jacket open you get that incredible continuation of design. The skirt and the jacket are both made from a textured wool boucle with the skirt being a two-tone aqua and pale blue and the jacket picking up the lavender in the silk top. Unusual colour and pattern mixing was a forte of Lacroix and we see that beautifully in the suit. The jacket is stunning and every seam has been meticulously executed. The sleeves are long and the rounded shoulders have soft padding inside for a touch of structure. The seaming is set in curving lines to create the shape that you see and there are little boned Silk satin inserts at the front for shaping. That same silk details the inside of the collar runs across the top of the shoulder and along part of the edge of the split cuff sleeves. At the back he used that same fabric to gather and bring in the back of the jacket for shaping and add a pretty romantic detail with the bow. It snaps to close down the front with silk covered hidden set snaps. Buttons are sewn on the outside and each is a stunning jewel. Gold tone metal has been set with rhinestones crystals and turquoise. So even if you wear the jacket on its own or closed you get this stunning jewel detail there. The skirt is precisely and simply cut with that slight flare as it reaches the hem. The front panel wraps over which as a touch of detail and also leaves a hidden opening underneath so that when you sit or walk you get a tiny flash of leg. It is lined in an extremely high-quality pale blue silk. This is a stunning example of his work that will never go out of style and it is exceptional. The fact that it is true Haute Couture just makes it better and the workmanship is out of this world. Excellent condition.
Both the dress and the jacket are fully lined in silk described above. The top is made of a single layer of silk. Top closes with a hidden setbacks zipper and has ribbon finishing at the hem. The skirt closes with a side zipper and couture hook and eye at the waist. The jacket has hidden set snaps down the front. All three pieces are completely made by hand and have their proper Haute Couture tags present with sequential couture numbers under the tag.
Jacket
Sleeve: 21"
Shoulders: approx 15"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 19" from neck to back hem, 22" the longest points of the front hem
Top
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 21" from shoulder to hem
Skirt
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 21" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4391
Reference Photos/Video: Spring 1996 Christian Lacroix Runway, Look 4. Model Carla Bruni.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

loris azzaro
Sexiest Fall 1995 Loris Azzaro Couture Sequin Covered Leopard Print Dress w Open Cut Outs
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This is the short version of one of my most favourite Azarro dresses I've ever had in the shop. It is from the Fall 1995 collection. When I had the long one I shared the editorial photo I have included here and that photo is one of my favourite fashion photographs ever. In 2018 I lent the long version to Karen Fairchild who wore it for the 2018 CMT awards. She was styled by Karla Welch and Karla ended up falling so in love with the dress that she ended up purchasing it and she wore it to the 2018 Instyle awards. This version is the twin of that dress and everything except length which for some will make it that much more versatile and wearable. It's fantastic.
This is a killer dress. It is one that will come to life even more once it is on an actual body and it is a dress that in person it is even better. The first thing you see is that the entire dress is covered in overlapping clear iridescent sequins that catch the light from every angle. This alone takes your beathe away when you see the dress in person. These cover a fantastic leopard print underneath. The shoulders are strong with underneath to hold the shape that you see. The neckline angles goes down from the shoulders and then goes across the shaped cups of the bust. The bodice is seamed to be fitted and shaped around you there is one of his signature strapless bras built-in underneath to add shape and support. The fabric has some stretch so it shapes to fit around you. It nips in slightly at the waist and then the skirt under that curves over your hips and the falls to the hem in a pencil shape with no vent making it fitted all the way down. The back as a huge all been cut out that leaves a bare expanse of skin. It is as incredible from the back as it is from the front. The sleeves are long and the perfect balance to the shortcut and openness at the front and back. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition.
Unlined and the fabric has some give. It closes with a zipper at the back and hidden set snaps at the back neck. The lower seam of the open back has elastic for easy fit. Padding in each shoulder. Built in signature cupped and wired strapless bra.
Shoulders: to 16" with the padding
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 37" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4387
Reference Photos/Videos: (1) Fall 1995 Loris Azzaro Couture photographed by Alexander Ubeda. Model: Victoria Silvstedt. / (2-5) Karen Fairchild in Azzaro at the 2018 CMT Awards. / (6-7) Karla Welch in Azzaro at the 2018 InStyle Awards.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

jean paul gaultier
Exquisite Fall 2000 Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Nude & Black Net 3D 'Script' Dress
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This dress is a work of art and instantly recognizable as being a Gaultier. His career spans decades. His first show was in 1976 and his avant garde designs quickly gained him the reputation of being fashion's 'l'enfant terrible'. His designs mixed cultures with abandon, gender norms were blurred and the body was presented encased in ways unimaginable prior to his own unique vision. His first Haute Couture collection debuted in 1997 and his final show where he was the designer was in Spring 2020. He has since then had guest designers come in for his couture collections and I love this solution for him as a designer. Gaultier couture rarely comes to market and this one is exceptional. It is also very well documented.
The Fall 2000 Haute Couture presentation was called 'Paris and its Muses'. I have included the original runway reference photos here and tyou can see that this is the twin of the runway look. Doutzen Kroes was photoed in it for Vanity Fair that season and in 2013 its twin dress was featured in the exhibit "The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk". I was invited and attended the opening of that show in San Francisco and I love having this dress in hand now. This dress was obviously a favourite of Jean Paul's because he also chose to recreate a version of it for his Fall 2018 Haute Couture collection. That 2018 version was then worn by Rita Ora for the 2018 MTV VMAs. I believe that this may have been the only dress that was produced beyond the runway version
The dress is made from a layer of fine black silk netting that falls over an interior nude coloured lingerie weight stretch silk. This makes it very easy to wear and be comfortable on despite the dramatic feel it has. Onto the silk netting are hand made and hand applied letters made of a black silk chiffon shaped over stiffened netting inside them. This is how they get that 3D dimensional feel that you see. It is fascinating to think that the entire dress would have had to have been careful planned out prior to its creation. Every single word that you see running over its surface would have had to have been laid out and placed on the netting for it to all work before it was even started. The degree that each word would need to curve over the body would have had to be planned for and then each word meticulously sewn onto the netting by hand like a puzzle. The letters cover the dress from head to toe and include 'Cherie', 'Mon Amour', 'Jean Paul Gaultier', 'Paris' and more. It falls from the shoulders and skims over the body and then widens out dramatically as it nears the hem. Where the words are set along the hem the hem is actually done to follow their shapes. A stunning couture detail. The letters also cleverly act as support to hold the fullness of the dress and are in a way like having a crinoline but one that is done in letters and attached on the outside of the skirt rather then worn underneath and hidden. The entire dress is suspended from the shoulders from straps that are just wide enough to accommodate the lettering that runs over them. The front has a low scoop and the back dips into a low V for some bare skin to show. It skims over the waist and then it flares out dramatically to the hem. The entire dress is bias cut so moves beautifully over the body. All of the seams are finished with proper couture techniques and it is as beautiful to see as the outside. This is a dress that would have taken hundreds of hours to complete and you really are wearing a piece of art. I am obsessed. Excellent condition with some very minor notes below
Composed of two layers, the inner nude lingerie weight stretch silk and then the netted layer over that. The inner layer closes with a zipper and the outer layer snaps to close with a tightly spaced series of tiny snaps. There is some minor stress to the netting around the seam of the armholes. I see a couple of the ends of a word that have popped through the silk a bit and some small tiny snags/ stress to the netting here and there. All of these are very minor. Please see the photos after the Couture label. The dress otherwise looks to have been worn very little if at all. Made by hand to Haute Couture standards. It's proper Haute Couture tag is present and it comes to me direct from the original couture client . It is extraordinary and rare.
Bust: 15-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15 " flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 62" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD3612
Reference Photos: (1-2) Fall 2000 Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Runway Collection. / (3) Doutzen Kroes in Jean Paul Gaultier couture from the 2000 collection for Vanity Fair, 2009. / (4-8) Jean Paul Gaultier exhibition at the Grand Palais, 2015. / (9) Fall 2018 Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Runway Collection. Look 34. / (10-12) Rita Ora in Jean Paul Gaultier at the 2018 MTV VMAs.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Louis Mies
Fall 1974 Louis Mies Couture YSL Silk Taffeta Dress w Hand Embroidered Velvet Rose Detail
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This is from my same client whose aunt purchased from Ady Couture who I explained in depth in this listing while she was living in Switzerland during the eighties and into the nineties. Prior to that, during the late sixties and into the early 80s her aunt lived in both France and Brussels where she purchased pieces from Louis Mies. Mies was a small independent couturier who did custom work for his clients to couture standards. He designed many piece for the Queen of Brussels and like Ady, he had permission from several of the Haute Couture ateliers to produce their Haute Couture pieces using the patterns and buying the fabric direct. This dress is based on the Fall 1974 gown that Yves Saint Laurent showed that season. The fabric has changed and I think this fabric is better then the silk moire taffeta of the runway piece. It is more wearable for a modern woman in this stunning rose detailed silk. It is beyond beautiful in person and one of my favourite personal pieces.
All of the finishes on the dress have been done by hand and it has all of those lovely details that you expect in a couture dress. It is made out of a black silk taffeta and this fabric choice helps it to hold its intended shape. On the main body of the dress the silk has been finished with hand embroidered roses. These are made with a chenille velvet thread that is worked through the silk to form those spectacular large roses that cover the entire dress. Scattered over and around the roses are dots that are made with the same chenille. This gives the dress an incredible 3D texture and they also add a lovely and romantic touch. The neckline is scooped low across the front and the it buttons to close under that. There is an elaborate set of snaps and hooks that follow the waist line and carry over to the side where there is a hidden set zipper. The top is so well made I think you could choose to wear the scoop to the back even. It skims over you and the waist nips in. The sleeves are gorgeous. Each is constructed in the proper tailoring manner and are set on a curve to follow the shape of the arm. At the shoulders there is a series of soft pleats that creates that bit of volume you see there. The skirt is equally well made. It curves out from the hips to fall to the floor, widening out beautifully as it nears the hem. Inside the skirt is a full built in silk under-skirt that gives the skirt the volume that you see. The inner skirt is finished with an edging of black silk ruffles and it set slight below the top skirt in length. So when you move a certain way or sit you get just a glimpse of the ruffles at the hem. I think my favourite detail though is the precise and unusual rolled pleats that circle the waist. Each is made by hand and each perfectly matches its neighbour. The hours of work that it would have taken to implement these would be mind boggling. All of the inner seams are finished by hand and I have included some shots of the inner seams for you to see how beautiful they are. It is extraordinary and the kind of quality and beauty that you will only find with vintage. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk crepe chiffon. There is a built in black silk taffeta inner skirt. It closes with silk covered button and loops down the front. At the waist there is an elaborate series of silk covered snaps and hooks that close along the waist line and then it zips at the side with a hidden set fine metal zipper. There is an inner waist stay that hooks to close. There is at least an inch and a bit of fabric on either side of each inner seams through the bodice to let it out if needed. The inside is all hand done and it is finished to couture standards.
Sleeves: 24"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Skirt: 42" from waist to hem with 3" turned under the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD3682
Reference Photos: Fall 1974 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Incredible 1950s Maria Antonelli Roma Rare Alta Moda Couture Velvet Beaded Strapless Dress
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The Antonelli Roma label was the Alta Moda / couture line launched by Maria Antonelli. She founded the label in 1930. She loved a long minimalist line in her work and she was one of the founding members of the group who pushed to establish Italian couture, or Alta Moda, as recognized couture in its own right. Her work was a a part of the V&A's 2014 exhibition titled 'The Glamour of Italian Fashion 1945-2014'. She was also one of the select group of couturiers that designed her work directly on the body rather than using a toile or muslin pattern. She has been hailed as a pioneer of Italian couture. Pieces of her work are exceptionally rare and this dress is an utterly beautiful example.
This is just a magnificent piece of early Italian Couture. The dress is held in place on the body with a built-in corset that is boned and structured.The exterior over that is made from an inky black velvet and the design of the dress makes it appear to be wrapped around the body. The bodice curved across the front and then it dips down to scoop lower at the back. It nips in at the waist, but there is no seams set across the waist to break the line. That shape was all created by the vertical seaming. It curves over the hips and falls to the floor, falling longer on one side than the other. The edges are finished with a wide and elaborate panel of beadwork with prong set glass rhinestones in the mix. These have all been hand applied onto the velvet. The beads and rhinestones are all placed to emphasize that feel that the dress has been wrapped in place around you. The detailing goes across the top of the bust and then dips down to the back. It crosses over itself at the back and there are hidden snaps to help keep the illusion that is has been effortlessly wrapped around you. More embellishments follow the curve of the skirt. It begins at the longest point of the hem and then curves up and under one hip, wraps around that and meets the beadwork of the bodice. At the very bottom point of the hem the appliques actulaly wraps into the interior of the skirt so that when you sit or move, you don’t visually lose the line of the beading. I love that detail. Inside and out and this is an amazing example of Italian Couture from this time period. A stunning and special dress. Excellent condition with a small note below.
The dress is fully line in a black silk taffeta and it closes at the back with a zipper that is sent on an angle to follow the seam and then the beadwork panels wrap and snap into place over that with hidden set snaps. Inner waist stay hooks to close. Hand finish throughout with hand finished inner seams. All of the beadwork is hand applied. There are some areas where there are some missing beads and rhinestones here and there. But this is scattered overall, so there are not any glaringly bare areas.
Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10" from top of bodice to inner waist stay
Skirt: 53" from inner waist stay to longest pint of the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4308
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

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This is an incredible example of Karl Lagerfeld's Haute Couture work. I am so glad this was a runway piece because it was almost impossible to photo correctly on the dress form. The elaborate sleeves that you see coming out from under the jacket are actually separate pieces altogether. You can see on the runway shots how beautifully they sit on an actual arm. My client opted for a more sleek jacket that did not take her in it at the waist as much as the runway look did and a more classic trouser. If you preferred that cinched in waist look you could easily belt the jacket. The simpler silhouette of this jacket allows for more versatility and styling. Sarah Mower said on her review of the show that; ‘It was pure Chanel, crystallized to a point of perfection only witnessed in haute couture…. Karl Lagerfeld began this mostly black-and-white collection with a new treatment of the Chanel suit…. These were paired with flat white go-go boots, which were not referenced from the sixties, but from a pair Coco (always ahead of her time) was wearing in a photograph from the decade before. That allusion and others demonstrate just how deftly Lagerfeld—Chanel historian par excellence—marshals his knowledge. He sprinkles the camellias, the satin bows, the organdy collars, and the bound edges so lightly that they become playful thrills—not belabored underscorings of theme or "brand identity."…. Lagerfeld reinvents the house signatures to pique the fantasies of today's young woman—and that he does just beautifully.’
The lines of this suit are crisp and sharp and the tailoring is immaculate. This is sharply contrasted with the dandified collar and arm pieces. It is incredible to have the full suit. This set includes the jacket, pants, inner top, collar and both arm pieces. The suit is made from a fine black wool that is light in weight and has a slight texture. It is just heavy enough to hold the shape beautifully. The jacket is cut to have a slight oversize feel through the body. The shoulders are shaped and the sleeves fall to just past the elbow. There is no collar. The neckline comes down the front in a simple V and then it zips to close down the remainder of the front. Two sleek little pockets are stacked on top of each other on either side of the waist for some detailing. It is cut to be more straight through the body and then flares out slightly at the hem, falling to just past the hip. The pants are classic and simple in their cut. They are flat fronted and cut to taper down to the ankles. A sharp fold runs down the front and the back of each leg. The inside of the suit is as immaculate as the outside and it is entirely made by hand. Every stitch is perfection. Under that goes a little sleeveless ivory silk top with a small neat collar. The top is easy fitting through the body. The top three buttons are finished with rhinestones and enamel and then the rest of the buttons are hidden under a flap of silk. Three additional pieces come with the suit. The first is a detachable silk organdy collar that goes around the neck and adds a romantic flounce with a large soft bow and ties. This gives the suit an unexpected touch of drama. Next is a pair of detachable sleeves. The sleeves are also made out of the same silk organdy as the collar and slip on the lower arm. Both those and the collar have a nod to the regency era when this type of sleeve and collar were all the rage. The sleeves are finished with a row of those beautiful buttons and the ends are ruffled. Every piece has been entirely made by hand and all the proper Chanel couture labels and numbered tapes are present. I love that with this one set you have so many pieces to mix and match with other things you own. It allows you to be able to sprinkle a bit of vintage Haute Couture throughout your wardrobe. This is a rare opportunity to own a piece of true couture by one of the most important designers of our lifetime. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
The jacket and pants are hand lined in a fine black silk. The jacket closes with a hidden zipper under the front panel of fabric. The pockets appear to be functional and all four still have their original tacking in place. The pants zip to close with a hidden set side zipper. The toppings to close at the front. The collar snaps into place and the sleeves slip onto the arm with functional buttons running down the cuffs. The edges of the collar and cuffs have intentional raw edges. I see one small area of breakage in the silk on the edge of one cuff. Please see the photo after all of the label shots. I see one rhinestone missing off one button on each cuff and one on the top. All of the pieces are made and finished by hand to couture standards. Proper couture labels present with couture tape are present on all pieces but the sleeves. Sourced from the original couture client
Jacket
Sleeves: 18"
Shoulders: 15.5"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 34.5" from neck to head
Pant
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 39" from waist to hem with 1.5" turned under
Inseam: 28.5" from inner seam to hem
Rise: 15.5" from back waist to inner seam
Top
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24" from neck to head
Collar
14" around and the snaps could be adjusted up or down a bit if needed
Cuffs
Length: 13" including the extended cuff, 9" without
10" around the upper edge and narrows to 7" around the wrist
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4263
Reference Photos/Video: Spring 2006 Chanel Couture Runway, Look 9. Model: Svetlana.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

pierre cardin
Rare 1978 Pierre Cardin Haute Couture Pale Mint Turquoise Silk Avante Garde Sack Dress
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There is a certain 'mod' silhouette that we tend to associated with Pierre Cardin but he was actually a designer that had a huge range. At times some of his other silhouettes get overlooked and they should not be. This wonderful Haute Couture example is from the 1978 time period and it is very avant garde in feel. I included some other examples of pieces from that same here and you can see that this is a silhouette that he touched upon often. It is a beautiful and elegant piece that may not be as mod in feel as some of Cardin's other pieces during this time period but it is one that shows the breadth of his talent. From a historical perspective it's also an interesting insight on what was to come as far as volume and play on proportion in the 1980s.
Cardin often played with volume through his entire career and for the 1978 collection he put huge voluminous caped bodices over narrow skirts and then played with the detailing at the front. This dress is made from a fine silk crepe dyed to a pale mint turquoise green and you can see that play on volume in the cut. The dress is finished entirely by hand and the fine workmanship is wonderful to see. That avant garde cut is all created by clever seaming and traditional couture methods and this mix is fascinating. The bodice is more like a cape. The neckline is a simple V and then the sleeves extend straight out from the shoulders and then swoop down to meet the dropped waist. You simply slip your arms through the opening on them and then is just billows around you. All of the silk then swoops towards the center and has been gathered up and into a half bow detail that lies over the skirt. At the center sits an exaggerated half bow. The bow has an inner insert of stiffened netting so its intended shape is help perfectly. The skirt falls from under that in a sleek and simple cut. The back is unexpected simple, falling in a sleek sheath feel to the hem. A vent at the back allows you to walk. It is very chic and unusual. Excellent condition with a note below
Fully lined in hand set fine pale green silk. It closes with a hand set back zipper. All work is done by hand into haute couture standards. The proper Cardin couture tag is present. I see a couple of very faint light marks on the fabric. Please see the photos after the label shot. The easy cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes. It will feel more of an oversized piece on a smaller frame
Sleeves: approx 23"
Shoulders: no defined seam
Inner bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 54" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG
Item# DD4260
Reference Photos: 1978 Pierre Cardin (sources unknown).
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

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This is an extraordinary example of the Haute Couture work that the Versace Atelier is capable of. A statement on their website reads ‘With exceptional attention to detail, every Atelier Versace garment is handmade by skilled Sarte—dressmakers—for a finish that is superbly intricate and bespoke to the wearer.’ And that quickly sums up the ideal that is the foundation of this dress. After much research, I believe it to be from in or around 1995. The detailing on the bust is extremely similar to the iconic pieces that he did for the Spring 1995 show and after showing it to several people that feels like the general consensus. This dress is almost certainly a one off and that would make it the only one in existence. Every inch of the dress is completely made by hand and the beading alone would have taken hundreds and hundreds of hours. It is very beautiful and a work of art. It is the type of thing something that you would rarely see outside of a museum if you were not an existing Haute Couture client.
I don’t think I’ve ever seen a more beautiful dress. The workmanship and detail on this surpasses almost every pieces that I have seen in person to date. The dress is suspended from two silk satin piped straps that curve over each shoulder. The bust is detailed with silk satin cups that have slight inner padding and are topstitched to create the shape that you see. These are set so that they look like a bralette that is peeking out from under the lace but they are integral and a part of the dress. Inside the bodice there is a hand made corset that has wired and hand padded cups, light boning and is made form a fine stretch lingerie netting. This sits independently inside the bodice and is attached by hand around the inner upper edge. This holds the dress perfectly in place on the body and gives you support while not restricting the movement of the silk as it cascades over you. The exterior silk has a touch of transparency to it and then the detailing on the dress is cleverly used to give it some opaqueness in spots. The cut of the dress is meant to skim over the body. It shows your curves but not in a way that constrained at any spot once you are past the insets at the bust. The waist is brought in by hidden vertical seaming and then it glides over the hips. From there it falls to the floor and widens out as it nears the hem. It is longer at the back than the front and I love that the back hem is finished in the same pattern that runs over the dress. This gives it this jagged flame-like finish that is stunning and unusual. This edging detail is carried around to the front to a lesser degree for added detail there as well. You also see this finish at the upper back. The fabric is amazing in it’s own right. It is completely hand beaded with hundreds of thousands of the tiniest black seed beads. Onto the base fabric are hand cut pieces of silk that are layered two and three deep in some places. These are also beaded and the beading changes in density to add to and highlight the design created. It is incredible. Even more incredible is that even on areas laying under those added cut out in all the spots that are hidden as a result and that you would never see... even there the fabric has been beaded. On one of the detail photos I lifted up the layers so that you can see this. It shows you how in Haute Couture even the smallest details are thought out and no expense has been spared. The beading and layering of the silk and the way it is laid out over the dress also cleverly adds shape and length. And because it is Versace, there is a high slit on one side, so that when you walk or sit you get a flash of bare skin. I cannot convey my love for this piece enough. It really is a spectacular example of Italian Haute Couture. A modern couture gown down with bead work to this degree would easily be well into 6 figures and in some cases close to seven. It is spectacular. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition.
The dress has a built in inner corset made by hand from a stretch lingerie netting that has lightly padded hand made cups and is lightly boned. The corset closes with its own zipper. The dress is lined in black silk chiffon. It closes with a hidden set zipper and the inner corset has a hook and eye waist stay. The dress is finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely made by hand. The proper Haute Couture label is present. The bias cut of the dress does allow for a bit of a range range of measurements and I have listed those below to the comfortable range laying flat where that applies. Note that due to the value of this dress returns will not be accepted so that it ships only one time.
Click here to see a video unpacking of this dress & click here to see a full video of this dress on the form.
Bust: 16.5-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 12-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 60" from top of shoulder to front hem and 75” to longest point of back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4256
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

madame gres
Magical c.1958 Madame Gres Haute Couture Printed Silk Chiffon Dress & Hooded Cape Piece
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Madame Gres' work has had profound effects on Haute Couture and her influence still resonates to this day. Her attention to detail, master draping techniques and respect for the female form is unparalleled. She was known for designing and creating garments directly on her models and this became a signature of her work. She opened her first atelier, La Maison Alix in 1932. A partnership briefly changed the house's name to Alix Barton and then the label went to simply Alix. In 1942 she married, and the label made its last change to became Madame Gres, which was a partial anagram of Serge, her husband's first name. Her work spans over five full decades with the vast majority of it, with the exception of a short-lived RTW line begun in 1980, dedicated solely to creating Haute Couture. She is one of the greatest couturiers of our time and her pieces are very rare and hard to find.
This Haute Couture dress is exceptional. It comes to me directly from the family that the other recent Gres pieces have come from. Her son told me that 'Madame Grès would let her wear many dresses as she was size model and those she really liked she purchased afterwards.' This was one of those that she kept and it is a very special piece. He remembers her wearing this around 1960 to some galas. This is also the time period that she would have had that relationship with Madame Gres. In the course of researching the dress we found that the 1958 and 1959 collections in particular were ones that featured braided details and cape elements like this dress has. I have included here some examples other dresses by Gres that share some of those common elements to this one from those years for you to see.
This is one of the most stunning dresses I have ever had in the shop. It is made from a biased cut silk chiffon with a small abstract print on it. From a distance it gives you that beautiful mottled red effect. Then as you look closer at the fabric you see that there is a deeper red, coral, soft green and a blue that all work together to form a pretty abstract floral print. The dress itself is simple and minimalist. It falls from the shoulder with wide straps that are made from hand gathering the silk chiffon and hand stitching them in these incredible little curved sections to create the illusion that the silk has been braided. These curve over the shoulders and then follow the neckline for a square off feel at the front. At the back they run down to the mid back and then run across in a straight line there as well for that same squared off finish there. The body of the dress falls from under that detailing in a swoop of bias cut silk. By the time it reaches the hem it is quite full. When you are standing still you get a soft column feel but then when you move you get incredible movement. The dress is lined in a layer of biased cut ivory silk and this gives the top layer and that pattern more depth. The silk is as light as air. Every seam on the dress has been finished by hand. Working with a silk chiffon as fine as this makes that an incredible achievement that would've taken countless hours of handwork. The dress is stunning on its own but this is a set and it comes with a incredible matching caped piece that has such an unusual and beautiful design. Two wide panels done in a single layer of silk chiffon are sewn together at the top of the neck at the back and then they hook together at the front. The panels fall over each shoulder to the floor and just past the hem of the dress. It is incredibly light in weight. This allows the slightest bit of air to pick them up so that they waft and float around you as you move. If that was not already beautiful enough the cape is topped by an oversized hood made of the same silk chiffon. It is cut extra long at the back and in such a way that when it is off the head the ends twirl on their own. I have taken a photo of this for you because it is just such an incredible detail. It's something that happens naturally and on its own as a result of how the silk has been placed and sewn into place. When the hood is up it falls gently around the face to frame it. The dress is in incredible condition and appears to have never been worn. It is literally a work of art and one of the most special things I've ever had in the shop. This is truly an extraordinary piece of modern couture and is exceptionally beautiful. No matter how good you think it looks in the photos, it is better in person. Excellent condition.
The dress is lined in a fine ivory silk. There is handmade soft inner corset set inside and under the ivory layer and it closes with its own zipper. The ivory silk lining closes over that with its own zipper and then the outer layer of the dress closes with hidden set tiny snaps. The cape hooks to close at the front. An inner waist stay hooks to close with metal couture hooks. I see a very tiny and finely done seam at the base of where it snaps to close at the front and I'm not sure if it is there deliberately or if it was a repair at one time but it's invisible when the dress is on. Please see the photo after the label shot. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. The dress is finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely made by hand. The proper Haute Couture label is present. The bias cut of the dress does allow for a range of measurements and I have listed those below to the comfortable range laying flat where that applies. Note that due to the value of this dress returns will not be accepted so that it ships only one time.
Inner waist stay: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 58" from top of shoulder to hem
Cape: 65" from neck to hem and will come up a touch when on the shoulders
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4254
Reference Photos: (1) 1958 Madame Gres Evening Dress in The MET Collection. / (2) Madame Gres evening dress, L'officiel de la mode, 1958. / (3) 1959 Madame Gres Evening Dress in the Chicago History Museum Collection.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

yves saint laurent
Documented Fall 2001 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture 'Le Smoking' Suit w Exaggerated Collar
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This is a slightly more dramatic version of Yves classic tuxedo suit. For the runway it was presented with a longer skirt and that one was shown for Look 38 of the Fall 2001 Haute Couture collection. My client ordered it with the pencil skirt you see so that she could have more options to wear it. The Fall 2001 collection was one of his final collections and to have a piece from this season is very special. Vogue noted that "Cocktail hour incorporated every possible variation on the tuxedo: There was a button-front dress, a smoking jacket that morphed into a full tulle skirt, and, naturally, an updated version of the masculine tux immortalized by Helmut Newton in the '70s." Yves play on the tuxedo and 'Le Smoking' suit is one of is most famous hallmarks that he first presented in 1966. His play on traditional menswear is lauded by many as 'having empowered women by giving them the option to wear clothes that were normally worn by men with influence and power'. I have included runway photos, video and a photo of the original sketch. The sketch shot includes the fabric swatches above as per his atelier records and you can see it is the same fabric as this one. It is extraordinary set and I love it.
The extra wide collar is what sets this one apart from the many versions he did over the years. It is so bold and yet still elegant and refined in feel. There is nothing quite like the experience of slipping on a tailored to perfection piece of true Haute Couture. It somehow feels different and the feeling is something you can only really experience for yourself. The construction on both pieces is meticulous and it has been sourced from the original couture client. These tuxedo suits were all done a play on a men's tuxedo in mind and then were shaped and tweaked by Yves to be immensely flattering on the female body. It's looks simple but has master level tailoring behind it. The jacket has this sleek cut to it that follows the curves of the body. It is slightly cropped to sit just at the top of the hip. The lower part of the collar is finished in a black matte satin. It's size has been exaggerated to make it the focal point. under that is a single faceted button. Pockets are top set on each side and the shoulders are shaped. The fabric has a fine ribbing to it and it holds the lines perfectly. The skirt is cut into a simple pencil shape. I love that you separate pieces which gives you the versatility of being able to mix and match each piece with other things you already own. It is also a suit that depending on how do you style it, it can easily work for either day or as an evening suit. Yves tuxedo suits changed the way the world approached woman's wear and any example of the Le Smoking version is particularly collectible. This is a wonderful example of his couture tailoring. Itis an important piece of fashion history from one of his final collections. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
Both pieces are hand lined in a black silk. The jacket closes with a button at the front and the skirt closes with a zipper and hook & eye at the waist. There are two pockets on the jacket. Both pieces are completely made by hand to couture standards. All proper Haute Couture tags present
Jacket
Sleeves: 23"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23" from neck to hem at the front, 22 at the back
Skirt
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23.5" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD3559
Reference Photos/Video: (1-7) Diana Gärtner for Yves Saint Laurent Fall 2001 Haute Couture Runway Collection. Look 38. / (8-9) Sketches for the Fall 2001 Yves Saint Laurent Couture Collection as shown in the "Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: The Complete Works" Book Set.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

madame gres
1970s Madame Gres Haute Couture Wide Leg Wool Jersey Pant & Metallic Gold Tie Top
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Madame Gres' work has had profound effects on Haute Couture and her influence still resonates to this day. Her attention to detail, master draping techniques and respect for the female form is unparalleled. She was known for designing and creating garments directly on her models and this became a signature of her work. She opened her first atelier, La Maison Alix in 1932. A partnership briefly changed the house's name to Alix Barton and then the label went to simply Alix. In 1942 she married, and the label made its last change to became Madame Gres, which was a partial anagram of Serge, her husband's first name. Her work spans over five full decades with the vast majority of it, with the exception of a short-lived RTW line begun in 1980, dedicated solely to creating Haute Couture. She is one of the greatest couturiers of our time and her pieces are very rare and hard to find. This set is from approximately the early to mid-seventies and it is fabulous.
This is an amazing piece of vintage. It is a set that consist of two pieces. The bottom part is a wide legged jersey pant and the legs are extremely full. The jersey is a soft wool fabric that she used extensively during this time period and it has a soft finish to it that looks and feels heavenly. The pants are banded at the top with a wide gathered swath of the same jersey but in a soft pale yellow for contrast to the camel colour below. It hooks to the one side and there's some built-in boning to keep it wide and full around the waist. I love how it is set into the pants on a bit of a curve. This lets one side be a little wider then the other. Below that the pants fall in extreme volume to the floor. They are so generously cut that by the time they reach their hem they are a full 64" around. Incredible. The top has almost the exact opposite to the feel of the pants with its metallic finish. The contrast is perfection. The top is made out of a beautiful silk that has actual metal thread woven through it. The silk is printed with its own design and then the metal thread is woven onto that in a floral design to get a print on print feel. The neckline is scooped and top itself is cropped. Darts run down on an angle to create room for the bust. The sleeves are long and simple. At the back you see the magic of this piece. Instead of a zipper or button closure, the top actually ties into place with ties made of the same fabric. These sit on an angle that starts at the neckline, runs down to one side and then straight down to the hem. This leaves a little bare expanse of skin that is so perfectly sensual. I have shot the top un-tucked so you could see it in full, but for the rest of the photos I tucked it into the band around the waist of the pants and I think that it looks quite incredible either way. The appropriate Couture tags are present in both pieces and the top has an additional handwritten numbered tag inside. This is an incredible and rare opportunity to own a beautiful piece of her work and it is that much more versatile with the two pieces since you can mix and match. Excellent condition with a small note below.
Both peices are unlined and completely finished by hand. The pants close with hook and eye at the band and a zipper under that. There's a small repair to the jersey inside the inner structure of the band and then one of the fold along one side. Neither is seen once on. The top ties to close at the back.
Top
Sleeves: 21"
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom seam: approx 12-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 12" from shoulder to hem
Pants
Waist: 12" at top of band and narrows to 11.5" flat across from side seam to side seam of true waist
Band: 3.5" high on the boned hook closure side and the other side will widen to approx 9"
Hips: open
Length: 40" from true waist to hem
Inseam: 29"
Rise: 15" from true waist to inner seam
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS
Item# DD4182
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

chanel
Tailored Fall 2000 Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld Black Haute Couture Dress & Jacket Suit
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The twin of this set in a different colour walked the runway for the Fall 2000 show for Look 11. My client ordered hers in black and that simple colour change makes it incredibly timeless. The suit is beautiful and so chic. I also have Look 17 from the show in the shop that has a longer jacket from the same client. True Haute Couture pieces by Chanel are an extraordinary find as they are so very rare and hard to come by. It is an incredibly beautiful and historically important example of the work that Karl was doing for Chanel during this time period. It is absolutely gorgeous to see in person.
I love that this is a suit with a dress and jacket rather than a jacket and skirt. It makes it so versatile and you can mix and match both pieces and wear them in so many different ways. Both of the pieces are constructed from a find black wool that has a touch of texture. It is absolutely beautiful. The inner dress is cut in the sleek and simple shift that skims over the body and flares out slightly as it nears the ham. Clever and subtle seams shape the dress around you so that it's very flattering. I love the seaming detail at the neck to give it the feel that the fabric crosses over itself. It is hand lined in a rich black silk so feels like heaven on. The jacket slips over that and has slight shoulder pads for a touch of structure and the sleeves are long. It has meticulous seaming set in curving lines to create the shape that you see. There is a simple hook and eye closure at the neck and two functional pockets on each side. It is hand lined in that same high end black silk and there is a signature Chanel chain set around the hem. What really makes it exceptional is that ruffled piece that goes from the neck right to the hem. The ruffle gradually narrows down as it reaches the bottom hem and this adds an unexpected touch of detail and softness to the jacket. It also creates movement as it slightly moves as you move. On the dress this same fringe detail circles around the hem. When the two pieces are worn together this extra little detail softens the feel of the set and gives it a nice pretty and romantic touch. This is a stunning and timeless example of Chanel's Haute Couture work. It is meticulously made and it is a beautiful piece showcasing the work that the Chanel ateliers are capable of and of Karl's time there. Excellent condition.
Both the dress and the jacket are hand lined in a fine black silk. The dress closes with a back hidden set zipper that follows along an offset seam so that it looks to have no closure at all. The jacket has a hook and eye at the top of the neck. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Both pieces have an appropriate Haute Couture label and numbered tape present. Both pieces are completely made by hand
Jacket
Sleeve: 23.5"
Slightly inset shoulders: 15"
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24" from neck to hem
Dress
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 38" from shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4177
Reference Photo: Fall 2000 Chanel Haute Couture Runway Collection. Look 11
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

balmain
Elegant 1970s Pierre Balmain Haute Couture Deep Red Silk Dress w Knife Pleat Detailing
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Haute Couture does not always have to be an elaborate, over the top piece. Sometimes the beauty of couture lies in the restraint of line and a certain chic simplicity that hides the hours of handwork put into each piece. This dress is a numbered Haute Couture piece and would have been made by hand in the Paris atelier. The attention to detail shown in every stitch is fabulous. It is a gorgeous dress.
The dress is made from deep burgundy red silk crepe that is an exceptional high end quality and it is this choice of this very high end fabric that helps to give the dress its beautiful lines. The top is cut into a V at the front with slight gathers where it inserts into the shoulders. It is constructed to look like a separate top that floats over the skirt below but it is actually all one piece. Each sleeves is long and poufs out slightly above the fitted cuffs. I love how each cuff is pleated to pick up the pleat work on the skirt. The three silk covered buttons adorn each cuff and each one sits perfectly in the center of each of those pleats. This detail alone is fabulous. The skirt falls from under the edge of the top and it is attached to its own inner silk bodice. This is the proper way to attach a skirt in couture and this helps it to stay perfectly in place once it's on the body. The skirt is fantastic. Each individual pleat is perfectly matched to its neighbor with meticulous precision. When you stand still the dress falls straight and then when you move you get incredible movement and fullness because of the pleats. It is a brilliantly cut dress. Every stitch has been done by hand. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a matching red silk and closes with an inner handset back painted metal zipper and then closes with a second zipper on the outer bodice layer over that. The cuffs snap into place under three silk covered decorative buttons. The Haute Couture label is present with couture tape under the tag numbered 157888. Hand finished to couture standards throughout. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.
Sleeves: 27"
Shoulders: no true defined seams
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips at inner lining: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 55.5" from shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD2913
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

valentino
Incredible Spring 2005 Valentino Haute Couture Green Ombre Bias Cut Silk Chiffon Dress w Pleated Bodice
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My couture client had this stunning silk chiffon dress made for her and it was one of the last pieces she acquired from the house. It is an interesting thing in that it shows how the client can really direct and combine different runway elements to make a one of a kind dress like this one is. When we look at the runway from that season we can see that skirt is taken from one dress, the top from another, and the colour from a third. It's a dress that combines the runway looks 25 ,26 and 27. The experience of couture is really client driven and I love how this dress takes elements from the three Valentino's pieces, stays true to his vision for this season and yet is completely unique. We found video of the dress that shares the skirt design of this dress and I've included it so you can see how beautifully this will move once it's on the body. Being a custom piece that was made specifically for her also means that it truly a one-off-a-kind which makes much more special. It is an extraordinarily beautiful piece of Haute Couture. The workmanship is exquisite.
This dress is divine. The lines of it are beautiful and as good as it looks on the dress form it will only truly come to life on an actual body. The bodice of the dress is fitted and nipped in at the waist. It is cut in a sweetheart neckline that softly curves at the top. The bodice is done in an extremely intricate manner. Panels of the silk chiffon are hand gathered and placed in soft pleats to form that complicated pattern that wraps around the entire bodice. Sitting at the top of each shoulder is a rounded soft cap sleeve done in the same pleating technique. This painstaking manner of pleating and gathering would have taken hours and hours to accomplish. It is of course all done by hand. There is a silk band around the waist and then the skirt flows out to the floor from there. The skirt is made from many yards of a beautiful bias silk chiffon. The inner skirt is made from four layers of the bias cut chiffon and then over that are two more layers of silk. At the front the top layers are cut to just under the hip and then they trail and curve down the sides to the back. If you look at the video we have included you can see how much movement this adds to the dress. The fabric is feather light and the fact that is is made from six layers of silk chiffon allows it to catch the slightest bit of air and float around you. It is incredible. The interior of the dress is made to couture standards with a full built in cupped corset that is boned and shaped to the waist. I am obsessed with the soft degrade ombre effect that dress has because of how the silk gradually changes from a soft deeper green at the top to the palest green near the bottom. It is one of the most beautiful dresses I have seen and looks to have been worn very little if at all. It is an amazing example of original Valentino Haute Couture. Excellent condition.
The interior bodice is boned and corseted. The skirt has six layers of silk as described above. The interior corset closes with a zipper and then the dress zips to close over that. The top silk layer of the skirt snaps to close over. Two inner waist stays that hook to close. Finished with Haute Couture construction techniques throughout.
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to bottom of waist seam
Skirt: 45" from bottom of waist seam to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4156
Reference Photos/Video: Spring 2005 Valentino Haute Couture Runway, Look 27, 26 & 25.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

chanel
Spectacular Spring 2003 Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld Haute Couture Blue Beaded Runway Dress Coat Suit
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This is a stunning set whose twin walked the runway that season. The set is incredibly beautiful and chic once on the body. Vogue noted that "The reinvention of the iconic Chanel suit began with fluted knee-length coats, worn, with ropes of glistening pearls at the neckline" and closed by stating that "This was a triumphant collection for Lagerfeld, as realistically wearable as it was dreamily desirable." I love that we found both runway photos and some video footage for you to see how dynamic this is on the body. True Haute Couture pieces by Chanel are an extraordinary find as they are so very rare and hard to come by. It is an incredibly beautiful and historically important example of the work that Karl was doing for Chanel during this time period. It is absolutely gorgeous to see in person.
I love how diverse and different this set feels depending on whether you wear the pieces together or separately. The set is made up of two pieces. A gorgeous to-the-knee coat with a chic little dress underneath that. Both of the pieces are constructed from a surprisingly light weight deep blue boucle. This fabric was actually a centerpiece of the show and a new step forward in the way they made their tweeds. Karl wanted them to feel almost weightless and easy to wear once on the body. The dress mixes that with a silk chiffon bodice to carry on the feeling he strove for with these pieces. “Fragility,” he said. “Everything is almost weightless.” The inner dress is cut in the sleek and simple shape that skims over the body and flares out slightly as it nears the hem. The skirt is made out of the same deep blue tweed as the jacket and then the top is attached to that and is made out of a deep blue silk chiffon. The top is all about delicacy. It is made of two layers of the silk. Each sleeve is long and ends in a neat little buttoned cuff. Both the front and the back are detailed with flat knife pleats. I love how the front of the skirt dips up into the top and at the back it dips down. This little shaping detail just make it lie even better on the body. The workmanship is stunning. The coat slips on over that and has light shoulder pads for a touch of structure. The sleeves are long. It has no closures except for a hook and eye at the neck. This allows it to flare out around you and gives it a softness as you move. The jacket is incredibly detailed. It has four top set pockets on the front and each has a row of glass beads along the upper edge. The same glass beads circle the hem of each cuff and go around the collar. The glass beads cleverly act as a weight for the coat so that it always falls perfectly once on the body. I love the low scoop of the front neckline and the ribbons that sit at the base of the neck. You can just let them hang loosely or tie them. Ribbons also sit on the edge of each sleeve and again you can leave them loose or have them tied into a pretty bow for a more formal feel. The jacket and the skirt of the dress are lined in a high-quality black silk. This Chanel set is exceptional and is true Haute Couture. It is a beautiful piece showcasing the work that the Chanel ateliers are capable of and of Karl's time there. Excellent condition.
Both the skirt of the dress and the jacket are fully lined in a fine black silk. The top is made from two layers of silk chiffon. The dress closes with a series of silk covered buttons at the back and each cuff has two silk covered buttons and loops. The jacket has a hook and eye at the top of the neck and at each cuff. Both pieces have an appropriate Haute Couture label and numbered tape present. Extremely faint spot on the front bodice. Slight pilling here and there on the jacket but I am being picky.
The Chanel boucle is created with their proprietary method of weaving that they themselves describe as "by weaving the warp and weft, using a variety of different kinds of threads which creates a unique and somewhat irregular appearance. The warp – vertically strung – is the background of the fabric, the base that will support the assembly of materials. There can be up to 12 different threads used for a single warp. The weft – woven horizontally – gives the fabric its unique character and can have an unlimited number of threads. Tight, perforated, textured, thick, with a relief, plaited, random, twill… the potential number of effects is endless". This technique gives you that classic Chanel look.
Jacket
Sleeve: 24"
Slightly dropped shoulders: 16.5"
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 39" from neck to hem
Dress
Sleeves: 22.5"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 38" from shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4147
Reference Photos/Video: Spring 2003 Chanel Couture Runway, Look 3.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

chanel
Chic Fall 2000 Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld Haute Couture Runway Dress & Ruffle Fringe Coat
I Have a Question
Other then the colour this is the twin of the set that walked the runway for the Fall 2000 as Look 17. The set is incredibly beautiful and chic once on the body. I also have Look 11 from the show in the shop now that has a longer jacket from the same client. True Haute Couture pieces by Chanel are an extraordinary find as they are so very rare and hard to come by. It is an incredibly beautiful and historically important example of the work that Karl was doing for Chanel during this time period. It is absolutely gorgeous to see in person.
I love that this set has both the light car length coat and a chic inner dress. It makes it so versatile and you can mix and match both pieces and wear them in so many different ways. Both of the pieces are constructed from a stunning deep coral pink and moss green version of the Chanel signature boucle fabric. From a distance it combines to give a more rust coloured feel but as you get closer you see the two distinctive colours. It is absolutely beautiful. It is then edged with a fringe made of the two wools. On the jacket this fringing follows all of the edges of the coat and then also circles each cuff. On the dress it circles around the hem. When the two pieces are worn together this extra little detail softens the feel of the set and gives it a nice pretty and romantic touch. The inner dress is cut in the sleek and simple shift that skims over the body and flares out slightly as it nears the ham. Clever and subtle seams shape the dress around you so that it's very flattering. It is hand lined in a rich deep green silk. The jacket slips over that and has shoulder pads for a structure and the sleeves are long. It has meticulous seaming set in curving lines to create the shape that you see. It has no closure except for a hook and eye at the neck. What really makes it exceptional is that ruffled piece that goes from the neck right to the hem. The ruffle gradually narrows down as it reaches the bottom hem. This adds an unexpected touch of detail and softness to the jacket. It also creates movement as it slightly moves as you move. The jacket is lined in that same extremely high-quality green silk and there is a signature Chanel chain set around the hem. This is a classic Chanel set that will never go out of style and it is exceptional. The fact that it is true Haute Couture is just the icing on the cake. It is meticulously made to the highest standards. It is a beautiful piece showcasing the work that the Chanel ateliers are capable of and of Karl's time there. Excellent condition.
Both the dress and the jacket are fully lined in a fine deep green silk. The dress closes with a back hidden set zipper. The jacket has a hook and eye at the top of the neck. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Both pieces have an appropriate Haute Couture label and numbered tape present. Both pieces are completely made by hand
The Chanel boucle is created with their proprietary method of weaving that they themselves describe as "by weaving the warp and weft, using a variety of different kinds of threads which creates a unique and somewhat irregular appearance. The warp – vertically strung – is the background of the fabric, the base that will support the assembly of materials. There can be up to 12 different threads used for a single warp. The weft – woven horizontally – gives the fabric its unique character and can have an unlimited number of threads. Tight, perforated, textured, thick, with a relief, plaited, random, twill… the potential number of effects is endless". This technique gives you that classic Chanel look.
Jacket
Sleeve: 24"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 39" from neck to hem
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 38" from shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4142
Reference Photos: Fall 2000 Chanel Couture Runway, Look 17. Model: Tetyana Brazhnyk.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

chanel
Incredible 1990s Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld Haute Couture Blue Organza Silk Dress & Jacket
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I am starting to work through a collection of couture pieces that I am handling at the moment for my client and all she could recall for this piece was this it was her mothers and that it was from the 1990s. I have not yet found a photo reference for this one but when I do I will add it and send to the new owner. The set is incredibly beautiful on the body. True Haute Couture pieces by Chanel are an extraordinary find as they are so very rare and hard to come by. It is an incredibly beautiful example and historically important example of the work that the Chanel ateliers were doing during this time period. It is absolutely gorgeous to see in person.
The ability that this set has to transform once on the body is fabulous. With the jacket on the set has that classic Chanel suit feel and it feels very elegant and reserved. But once you take the jacket off it takes on more of the feel of a more sensual evening piece. The dress has that easy dropped feel of the twenties that Karl so often touched upon in reference to Coco's initial designs for the house. Both pieces are made from a deep blue silk organza. This fabric allows it to keep the shape that he intended while still keeping both pieces extremely light in weight. The dress is dropped from the shoulder from wide straps that curve up and over each shoulder. The bodice is easy fitting and cut to skim over you with a shallow V at the front. It is hand pieced together in a pattern of panels that are meticulously sewn together. The waist is dropped and then from under that the pleated skirt flows out to the floor with incredible movement. The combination of this fabric choice with the pleats gives the skirt incredible movement. The pleats open and flare outward as they reach the hem and this allows the skirt to swing out around you. Two layers of silk tulle are built-in underneath the skirt to add to and create the volume that you see. The lightness of the fabric and the pleats combine to make the skirt move at your slightest movement. I think it's incredible to see this on and moving. The jacket sits over top of this and it has a soft and simple cut. The neckline is cut wide across to follow the neckline of the dress underneath. The collar is wide and notched for that bit of a 20s feel to the design. The sleeves are long and each has a notch that runs up the inside seam. It hooks and snaps to close down the front. It does have structure but it's meant to look soft on the body. There are small shoulder pads in each shoulder but they are soft and light. There is a signature Chanel chain at the base of the jacket so that it hangs perfectly. All of the work is meticulously done by hand to Haute Couture standards. It is an incredible piece of Chanel couture. It's very beautiful and even better in person. Great condition with a note below
The jacket is fully lined in a blue silk and closes with hidden snaps and hook and eye at the front. A signature Chanel chain runs around the inside hem. The dress is lined in the same silk organza through the bodice and then the skirt has two layers of silk tulle. One layer is black and the other is a matching blue. The dress closes with a zipper and then there is a separate set of snaps to close on each of the three layers of the skirt. An inner waist stay hooks to close. Some of the edges of the seams have slightly faded. Mainly on the jacket and bodice of the dress. It gives it a kind of degrade look. It almost feels intentional because it's so even everywhere but I can't say for sure that it is. Please see the shots after the label shots and on the general shots as well. Some of the pleats have softened slightly in the skirt. Both pieces have an appropriate Haute Couture number and tape
Jacket
Sleeves: 24"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24" from neck to hem
Dress
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 18" from top of shoulder to slightly dropped waist
Skirt: 42" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4139
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

yves saint laurent
Extaordinary Fall 1990 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Look 126 Purple & Bronze Silk & Lace Dress
I Have a Question
This dress is from the Fall 1990 collection and came to me directly from the original couture client. In the book Yves Saint Laurent: Catwalk they said this of this collection; 'Yves Saint Laurent allowed himself to be truly audacious for this presentation of 137 designs. The Baroque style was evident in outfits were the a fairy tales.' Elle magazine summarized Saint Laurent's work as 'insouciance elevated to the rank of fine art.' .... and of the colours that he chose for the collection the New York Times noted that 'He works with a painter's eye, and the results are always satisfying, never soporific.' They also said that 'Lace is a cornerstone of evening dressing. Sometimes it is thick velvety guipure lace, sometimes spidery Chantilly. It never looks matronly.' This was one of the final dresses of the show and a beautiful example of all of those comments by the press. I am also very happy to have found the runway photo. With 137 looks shown finding this exact one from the handful of shots that are out there of the collection is almost miraculous. In addition to tall of that I have included a snap of the original sketch and fabric swatches from the boxed book set "Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: L'oeuvre Integral 1962-2002". The dress has so much structure and form to it but once on the body it sits just perfectly and transforms into something magical. It is an exceptional and well documented example of Laurent's Haute Couture work that he was doing during this time period.
A silk taffeta in a jeweled toned fuchsia sweeps across the top of the bodice and then extends down to form each sleeve. The fabric is gathered and ruched down the length of each arm. The shoulders are left bare to balance out the volume underneath and have that expanse of skin for a touch of sensuality. Under the fucshia is a wide band of a slightly metallic copper silk that goes from the top of the bust the the slightly dropped waist. The silk has been gathered along each side to create soft pleats that wrap around you. The skirt comes out from under that in a series of soft gathers that open up to allow it to be quite wide by the time it reaches the hem. The underskirt is made from a pale purple silk and that is covered in a top layer of French black lace. The lace is hand made and has a stunning floral design set within medallions. These are repeated throughout the lace to create the beautiful pattern that you see. I love that the bottom edge of the lace follows the curving shape of the design that is in the lace. To finish Yves wrapped a wide green silk ribbon around the waist. This unusual colour choice is spectacular when you see it all together and on the body. This is a spectacular example of his work and a piece you would only ever normally see in a museum. Excellent condition
Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk. There is a built in silk covered elastic that is attached and wired right between the breast for a slight bit of support and then that wraps around you and hooks to close. It closes with a side set zipper and has an inner waist stay that hooks to close. There is a series of snaps above the zipper that run under the arm seam. Each sleeve zips to close at the wrist. The exterior layer of the skirt closes with its own a hand set side zipper. The silk ribbon belt is tacked into place on either side of the waist. On the interior of the skirt at the inner waist the fabric has been folded down and it looks like it would be possible to lengthen the skirt from there by just about 4". It looks to have been worn very little if at all.
Sleeves: 20" from where they start off the shoulder
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of bodice to slightly dropped seam at the waist
Skirt: 38" from the slightly dropped seam at the waist to the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD3598
Reference Photos: (1) Fall 1990 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway Collection. / (2-3) From the book "Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: L'oeuvre Integral 1962-2002"
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

valentino
Incredible 1980s Valentino Haute Couture Pale Blue Silk Chiffon Dress w Elaborate Gathered Bodice
I Have a Question
There are hints of this dress from both the 1986 collection and in the 1988 collection. The original owner did buy it in the 1980s but I do not have the exact day. I tend to lean towards the earlier date for it but I have included reference photos from both the above mentioned collections. It is a stunning example of Valentino's work during this time period.
The dress is beautiful to see in person. It flows over the body from the more fitted bodice and the lightness of the silk allows it to move and float around you when you move. The bodice is a stunning example in shaping and couture techniques. Inside it is boned and has built in cups. This interior structure holds it perfectly in place over the body once on. On the exterior the silk is hand set and gathered over the bust and all the way around you. Each individual gather is meticulously hand stitched into place. Above this more structured part of the dress is a single layer of the chiffon. At the front it scoops in a higher set neck and at the back it is set with a keyhole running down to the top of the gathered bodice. The skirt flows out under that in four layers of the silk and each layer is bias cut. This is what allows it to have such beautiful movement when you move. The final touch are those pretty sleeves that are cuffed at the wrist and pouf out around the arm above that. It also has its original very large silk shawl piece. It is beautiful. The dress does have some flaws but is structurally sound. Please review the notes below.
The interior bodice is finished is boned and corseted. The skirt has four layers of silk as described above. The interior corset closes with hook and eye and the silk layer zips to close over. Each cuff buttons with two silk covered buttons and loops. Three buttons at the top of the back neck. There are areas of fading through the skirt that go through the layers. I have photoed the worst of them. There are some faint areas of the same on the silk above the corset and on the sleeves. I see one tiny repair near the hem at the back of the skirt. It comes. I think you could potentially remove the sleeves and upper bodice and use the shawl to create a layer over the worst of the fading or just have it redyed and it would be perfect again. Sold as found and final and the price is according to the description above
Sleeves: 25"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 16.5" from top of neck to interior waist stay
Skirt: 45" from interior waist stay to hem
Shawl: 54" x 52"
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD3018
Reference Photos: (1) From the book "A Grand Italian Epic, Valentino", 1988/1989 collection / (2-3) The "Degradè" Dress from the Valentino Haute Couture 1986 collection. (4) Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon taken on location at JohnMel Stables
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.