This stunning set is from the Fall 1984 Haute Couture collection and its twin was photoed that season as well. Who knows this might be the actual set! I have included that reference photo here for you so that you can see how amazing it is on the body. I love how they pushed the sleeves up for the shots which gives it a totally different feel. Ungaro launched his label in 1965 after working for both Balenciaga and Courrreges. He was a brilliant designer who was known for his of extravagant fabrics and flamboyance. His Haute Couture pieces are not easy to find and this set is fantastic.

Both of the pieces that make up this set are stand outs and can be worn together as intended or you can mix and match them with pieces you already have to really extend their wearabilty. The inner dress is amazing. It is cut in that signature Ungaro silhouette for this time period. These little fitted dresses were meant to hug and highlight every curve of the body. The dress is made out of a silver silk velvet that has a metallic silver and gold foil worked through the velvet. This gives is a subtle shimmer and allows it to catch the light from every angle. The fabric is hand draped over the entire dress to give it an incredible texture. The bodice has a highly modified sweetheart shape with one side set at a high peak and the other in a soft curve. The gathers are shaped to follow the line of the bust and emphasize the breasts. On the side that it zippers to close there is a pretty strip of hand applied beads and sequins that run down that side of the dress for extra detailing. Over this is the jacket. The jacket is made from an ivory lace that is backed with a silk. Onto the lace is a mix of embroidery work, little silk applique, rhinestones and faux pearls. The shoulders are padded and the top of the sleeve is gathered around the shoulder for a bit of a high capped feel. The sleeves narrow in a touch from there as they reach their ends. The waist is brought in and shaped with vertical seaming and then the hips flare out. There are no closures on the jacket, it is meant to just slip on and sit over the dress. It is finished with a dramatic Ostrich feather border that that wraps around the neck, down the front and all the way around the hem. It is completely made by hand and the proper Haute Couture numbered tape is present. Excellent condition

The dress is hand lined in a ivory silk and closes with a hand set side zipper. The bodice is boned. Interior waist stay hooks to close. The jacket has no closures. Padding in each shoulder. I see minor marks on the interior lining of the dress and perhaps a slight grubbiness to the inner arms of the jacket. Please see the last photo after the label shot.

Dress
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 9" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 25" from waist to hem

Jacket
Sleeves: 23"
Slightly extended shoulders: 16"
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: approx 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: approx 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 32" from neck to hem, including the feathers

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3367

Reference Photo: Fall 1984 Emanuel Ungaro Haute Couture. (via @only_french_couture)

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is a version of a dress from the Spring 1998 Haute Couture collection. I have included a reference photo here and you can see the similarities between the two dresses. It was not unusual for a client to have a dress completely customized to her and this most likely is a one off with no other exactly like it made. The dress is absolutely exquisite. It is a stunning example of Mr. Valentino's couture work during this time period.

This dress is absolutely beautiful. It is strapless with a fitted and sculpted bodice. The bodice and back have been shaped and set by hand into wide flat curving panels  that wrap around the bodice. It is a masterpiece lesson in couture techniques. The top of the bodice has a wide panel that curves over the sweetheart shape and then extends down into the skirt. Inside it is boned and has a full an inner corset for support and to hold the dress perfectly in place. At the back the pleats wrap around toward the zipper, cross over themselves and then extend into the skirt. The inner skirt of the dress is made of a fine black silk netting that is backed by silk chiffon. That  netting is then completely covered with a dense application of bead and sequin work that is entirely done by hand. I believe that the bead work was done by Lesage. It is all done completely by hand and this level of fine workmanship that would have taken many many hours to complete, perhaps even into the hundreds of hours. The outer skirt lays over this inner skirt and opens in an angle down the front so that you see part of the inner beaded skirt. What is truly incredible is that even though the entire inner skirt is beaded al the way around, you only see that one part of it from the front. That is the level of work that you see only in couture. The dress appears to have never been worn, or worn very little. Excellent condition

The inner skirt is fully backed in a silk chiffon. The outer panels of the skirt are unlined. The inner bodice has a netted silk corset that is boned and cupped. The bead work extends all the way up to just under the bodice on the inside. There is a zipper to close the corset with a second zipper over that to close the outer layer. Inner waist stay that hooks to close. The dress is completely finished by hand to haute couture standards. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. My photos do not do it full justice and it really needs an actual body to bring it to life. 

Bust: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam, with a B-C cup
Inner waist: 14.25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10" from top of bodice to inner waist seam
Skirt: 40" from inner waist seam to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3156

Reference Photo: Valentino Spring 1998 Haute Couture Collection

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Bill Gibb was crowned Designer of the Year in 1970. He was one of the most influential designers in 1970s Britain and his clothes were worn by the rich and famous. His work has a high fantasy element to it that I love. Much of his work verged on couture and he was unrelenting in striving for perfection. This dress is from his 1976 collection and version from that same collection with similar elements use for it was photoed on Tina Chow for Vogue that season. His pieces were never produced in large quantities and this one is exceptional. It is wonderful to have such a gorgeous example of his work in the shop.

This amazing set is actually two separate pieces which is lovely as you can mix and match them with pieces you already own to extend their wear. The top piece is this fantastic evening coat that is pure drama. It is made out of a pale pink silk netting with a built in inner bodice piece that is made out of pale pink silk. This sits over a full length skirt that is made out of a fine silk chiffon with a soft pink silk lining. The top layer of silk on the skirt is knife pleated all the way around. This gives is some volume and movement when you walk. Around the hem are three stripes of silk satin ribbon in a pale blue, a pink and a mint green. This same ribbon detail is also used to edge the inner silk of the jacket. The effect of seeing the stripes on the skirt and the top through the netting of the jacket is stunning. The inner top also has the same knife pleat finish so that it feels like one ling piece under the netting once on the body. The very top layer that floats over everything is a silk netting that has been hand embroidered with a flowers and vines design. The design has done with a soft pastel thread that has a metallic silver running through it. This covers the entire outer later and gets denser as it reaches the hem. The thread itself is the same colour combination as the ribbons on the skirt and under the top but with that metallic finish. The final effect is incredibly beautiful and romantic. The edges of the jacket are finished with silver cording and there is a long tie of silver cording at the neck. The sleeves are incredible. They are cut extra long and each has an inner knife pleated inset made out of a pale pink silk chiffon. They pouf out from the shoulder and are caught up just below the elbow. On an actual arm they are meant to sit up on the arm where they are brought in so that they netting above is very full. Below that the lower sleeve is cut to flare out and widen as it reaches the end of the sleeve. Each sleeve has the same hand embroidery detailing as the body of the jacket. Long silver cords hang down from the seam at the elbow.

No matter how much you might love the photos this one is even better in person. The workmanship in it has to be seen in real life to be fully appreciated. It is a beautiful and glamorous dress that is red carpet worthy and would make an amazing wedding dress for the bride looking for a non-traditional choice or as an alternative dress in a more extended wedding celebration. And of course it could also be worn to any big event. Excellent condition

Both piece are fully lined in a pale pink silk as described above. The skirt closes with a metal and nylon zipper. The top slips on to wear with snaps and hook and eye at the very top of the neck. The colours in person are softer and bit more pink feeling in person. There is some light fading to one side of the skirt near the closure but its very minor. 

Skirt
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips at inner lining: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 44" from waist seam to hem

Top/Overlay
Sleeves: approx 31"
Shoulder opening: approx 17"
Bust: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist- hips: open
Length: 25" from top of shoulder to hem of inner top, 58" from shoulder to the full length hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3081

Reference Photos: (1-2) Tina Chow in an ensemble by Bill Gibb. Photographed by David Bailey for British Vogue, April 1976.  /  (3-4) Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Hubert de Givenchy moved to Paris in 1942 where he worked for Jacques Fath, then Elsa Schiaparelli, and eventually Cristobal Balenciaga. Givenchy often attributed much of his later success to the years with to Mr Balenciaga and what he learned while there. In 1952, Givenchy founded his namesake house in Paris and quickly rose to fame as one of the great couturiers of our time. I am always pleased to find any of his Couture work as it is rare and this particular dress is exceptional with every detail on it finished to Haute Couture standards.

The dress is made from a fine silk chiffon in a dark brown colour. Worked through the chiffon are metallic dots that are made from several hues of metallic threads ranging from gold, silver and copper. These catch the light as you move and give the silk a real sense of movement as the light plays over the metallic bits and they move in and out of the pleats that dress is done in. It is really an amazing effect. The dress is immaculately made. Down the center of the front and the back is a panel of the fabric that has been hand pleated in a series of sharp little knife pleats softened by the lightness of the fabric. This creates a series of vertical pleats that add detailing and also give the dress more movement. The sides have no pleat work and this is a clever way for the dress not to swing out so much that you lose all shape. When worn without a belt the shape is loose and easy. I have added a grosgrain ribbon to give it some shape and you can see how much that simple addition changes the look of the dress. The sleeves billow out above their buttoned cuffs. The neckline is cut wide across the shoulder and it is accented with a mink fur collar. The dress is made to couture standards with all the inner seams finished by hand. I have included a shot of one of the inner seams for you to see. It is extraordinary and the kind of quality and beauty that you will only find with vintage. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition with one note below

The dress is lined in a hand set fine brown silk. The sleeves are unlined so have a touch of transparency to them. It closes on the interior silk lining with a hidden hand set, painted metal zipper that is hidden under the edge of the pleats at the back. The exterior layer snaps into place over that. Each cuff of the sleeves button to close. The ribbon is not original to the dress bit will be included. Finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely done by hand. Haute Couture tape label is present and numbered #59349. The easy cut should work on a range of sizes

Note that you could switch out the fur for a faux or even have it removed and the edge finished underneath of the fur bothered you and then just keep the fur stored for archiving purposes.

Sleeves: 26" but there is no set shoulder seam
Shoulders: no true seam
Inner bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner lining waist: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner lining hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 51" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED if the bust works

Item# DD2936

I have a small collection of historically important, key designer labelled vintage furs, fur trimmed & feather pieces stored away in my archives that I will be slowly posting on the site over the next couple of years until I have none left. I will no longer be buying furs for the shop moving forward and have not purchased anything for several years now. I feel like times have changed and while there still is a place for vintage furs for some, including collectors and historians, many modern girls are choosing other options. Many of the pieces in my collection are representative of the designer during a set time period in history that was different then our modern outlook. I have decided that the best course to handle this controversial issue is to let the pieces I have go rather then sit in a cold storage unit. All fur coats, fur trimmed & feather pieces are final sale

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Madame Gres' work has had profound effects on Haute Couture and her influence still resonates to this day. Her attention to detail, master draping techniques and respect for the female form is unparalleled. She was known for designing and creating garments directly on her models and this became a signature of her work. She opened her first atelier, La Maison Alix in 1932. A partnership briefly changed the house's name to Alix Barton and then the label went to simply Alix. In 1942 she married, and the label made its last change to became Madame Gres, which was a partial anagram of Serge, her husband's first name. Her work spans over five full decades with the vast majority of it, with the exception of a short-lived RTW line begun in 1980, dedicated solely to creating Haute Couture. She is one of the greatest couturiers of our time and her pieces are very rare and hard to find. This one is exceptional

I have dated this dress based on information from my client and on a variation of this dress held in the collection of the Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco. I have included a reference photo of that dress and you can see the similarity in cut and fabric. The collection notes on the museum held dress even mention a matching cape. This 1970s period is about the time period where she turned her attention from using primarily jerseys to incorporating more taffeta and silks into her work. That and the fact that the Museum dress also has a matching cape feels too coincidental for it not to be from that same collection. It is also interesting to note that the Museum held dress has been exhibited twice. Once for the "New Look to Now", at de Young Museum, 1989-91; and it was lent to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, for "Mme. Gres" in 1994. 

Both pieces are made from a fine silk taffeta dyed to a deep green colour. This fabric choice keeps the weight of the dress down despite its volume and the fabric also holds the intended shape beautifully. The bodice has no sleeves and is cut so that the shoulders slightly extend off the shoulder with this subtle little curved line. The bodice skims over the body in a long column to the dropped seam at the top of the hip. There is actually an inner skirt under the full top skirt that falls right to the floor with a high side slit up one side that allows you to be able to walk in it. This also gives a very unexpected flash of leg when you move or sit in the dress. The top skirt is pure drama. It is cut on a curve that comes up at the front and then swoops down to the floor and falls behind you at the back for a slight trained feel. That curving line is almost sculptural and gives the dress a different feel from every angle that you see it from. The outer skirt is set to fall away from the body with lots of volume and shape but the fabric is so light that you also get movement and a floating feel when you move. This was achieved by gathering the taffeta into soft pleats all along the curved seam there. Underneath the skirt there is a second shorter ruffled peplum layer that supports the fabric and holds the shape. Over this is a matching silk taffeta cape that is almost monastic in its simple lines. It simply hooks into place at the neck with one tiny hook and then falls beautifully over the shoulders. The cape flows and extends down the back mimicking the curved line of the skirt. At the front it hits right where the skirt begins and this is a clever way to extend the eye downwards. It is cut so that it falls in soft rounded folds that pick up the soft pleats of the skirt below it and ties everything together beautifully.  It is magnificent. Both pieces are completely made by hand. The proper Madame Gres Haute Couture label is present. This is an exceptional gown. I love it. This is a rare opportunity to own an original Haute Couture Madame Gres. It is an extraordinary thing to see in real life. Excellent condition with a minor note below.

Both pieces are unlined with hand done couture seams throughout. The dress closes with a off-set back zipper that is camouflaged along a vertical seam. It then closes along the top of one shoulder with a series of hooks and snaps. The cape has one single hook & eye to close. Inner peplum that supports the skirt as described above. I see some very tiny marks on the bodice. Please see the photos after the label shot. There is a very faint perfume smell on the dress from a fitting for a potential award show. I did not want to clean it again as its extremely faint and not an issue. The dress should fit a range of sizes since it is not meant to be very fitted.

Dress
Bust: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips at dropped seam: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 23" from neck to dropped seam where over skirt begins
Inner skirt: 37" from dropped seam where over skirt begins to hem
Total Length: 60" from neck to hem of inner dress, 67" to longest point of the back of the trained top skirt 
Slit: 20" from the hem up

Cape: will fit any size and falls to 30" a its longest point at the back

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3227

Reference Photos: 1977 Madame Gres Dress from the Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco.  /  Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture.

This garment has been professionally steamed and sold in, clean, as found condition. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The notes for the 1972 collection in the book 'Dior, The Catwalk' tell us that The New York Times declared Marc Bohan's collection for Dior as 'the best of the season in Paris'  that year. There was also the information that of all the Dior collections, the full records for this particular one did not survive the passages of time so finding a piece that still has a fair amount of documentation is a bit of a miracle. While we did not find a photo of this exact version we did find several photos that show similar sets to this one in a variety of colours and prints. I have included them so that you can get an idea of how chic this set is once on and how central to the theme of that season these were.

This is a wonderful example of his work during this time period. Both the top and the pants are made from a feather light black silk with a satin finish. This fabric is notoriously difficult to work with and when you add in that it was all entirely made by hand the level of workmanship takes on a whole new meaning. It is a set made up of a low plunging top and chic simple pants with a wide cut leg. The top is cut to skim over you and snaps to close from the hem to the bottom of the plunge that you see at the front. The waist is gathered for shape and under that the top extends in the traditional couture manner with a panel of fabric so that when you tuck it into the pants it stays neatly in place. It is all made out of the same fabric though so you can also choose to wear it un-tucked as well and get an entirely different feel. The collar is rounded and has a bit of a seventies flare to its shape. The front plunges almost to the waist where it meets the first hidden set, silk covered snap just above the waistline. The pants are made of the same high end black silk. They have a wide cut and are a full 26" around the bottom hem. The waist is banded and there is a panel of fabric that wraps around you to snap and hook into place so you get this fantastic gathered cummerbund effect. If there ever was a piece that needed a real body in it this is it and I can guarantee you that once on this is as chic and sexy as they come. I also love that being two pieces, the set gives you the versatility to break it up and wear it with other pieces you already own so that it extends the wearability of the set. This is a rare piece of fashion history. The proper Haute Couture label is present and is dated and numbered. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition

The top is fully lined in a black silk chiffon. The pants close with a fine metal zipper and the sash at the waist hooks and snaps into place. The top snaps to close with a series of hand covered hidden set silk snaps at the bottom as per the description above. Each cuff buttons to close with a hand covered black silk button. Entirely made by hand. The Haute Couture label is present and numbered #01484

Top
Sleeves: 21"
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 22.5" from neck hem

Pants
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 39" from top of bodice to waist
Inseam: 26.5" from waist to hem
Rise: 11.5 from Bottom seam of waist band to inner seam
Pant leg width: 26" around

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3931

Reference Photos: (1-2) Dior, 1972.  /  (3-4) Models in Dior, Jours de France Special Pret-a-Porter, Fall 1972.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The Nina Ricci brand was founded in 1932, at 20 Rue de Capucines in Paris and quickly became one of the top couture ateliers in the world. In 1964, Gérard Pipart succeeded Jules-François Crahay, Nina Ricci's former designer assistant, as head of the brand. Over the following three decades, Pipart's couture vision 'celebrated a flamboyant woman and his ready-to-wear found a loyal following among the most stylish women of the day.' This dress fits perfectly into that aesthetic and I think it is amazing. It is not 100% perfect but it is still a stunning example of the couture work that the atelier as doing and I think its small flaws are forgivable.

The dress is a wonderful example of Pipart's vision for the house. It is made from a fine red silk net that has been covered with hand placed individual leafs or petals. These completely cover the underlying structure and are only attached at their tops so that they have a slight movement when you move. Each petal is embroidered so that they have a touch of structure and lie perfectly in place. The petals are made from a red silk organza so are very light. Under the top net dress there is a full inner silk dress. That inner dress has a simple bodice that is suspended from the shoulders by tiny straps. There is a slight built in peplum around the hips that adds some shape and volume to the upper part of the skirt. Under that is a full inner skirt that is finished with more of the leafs at the hem. The bodice is beautiful. It is scooped across the high neck and then the outer layer floats over the red silk inner dress. The sleeves are cut to be full and wide and they have a slight cap at the shoulders. The waist has a band of red silk and I added a red velvet ribbon there which will be included with the dress. The skirt falls over the inner peplum around the hip and then falls in a widening curve to the floor. It is stunning in person and on the body. Great condition with notes to review below.

Fully lined in red silk as described above and closes with a back hand set zipper. Elastic in the sleeves. Finished to Haute Couture standards. I took some photos of the inner hand done seams for you (the ones before the metal fastener and string shot). There is no label present but it has its couture fastener that this atelier used during this time period attached to an inner seam. There are some small repairs to some of the petals and some have small vertical breaks in them where they were stored folded. Please see the photos after the tag shot. Some slight bubbling to the silk over the band around the waist. There may be other small breaks that I missed. Strong and stable enough to wear and if this bothers you, you could probably steal from the inner hem to replace the damaged petals. If it was labeled and with no issues this would easily be triple the price or more. I included the exterior measurements ad well as the interior as it would be easy to adjust or add to the inner dress if needed

Sleeves: 15"
Shoulders: 14"
Inner bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Outer bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Outer waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of bodice to waist, including a 3" band
Skirt: 38" from bottom seam of band at waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3917

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

There is a certain 'mod' silhouette that we tend to associated with Pierre Cardin but he was actually a designer that had a huge range. At times some of his other silhouettes get overlooked and they should not be. This wonderful Haute Couture example is from the estate of Baronessde Alain nee Mary Chauvin du Treuil and it was made for her during the period of 1968-1970. It is a beautiful and elegant piece that may not be as 'mod' in feel as some of Cardin's other pieces during this time period but that does show the breadth of his talent and the elegance that he was also capable of.

The dress is made from a handmade crocheted Guipure lace. This type of lace is characterized by crocheted motifs that are held together by large connecting stitches. The colour of the thread work changes as it travels from shoulder to hem. It begins as a pale pink tinged french lavender colour at the top and then gradually deepens to a deep rich purple at the bottom. The texture and weight of the pattern changes as does the openness of the lace. There is a lighter, more open feel at the top, and then like the colour, it gets gradually denser as it reached the bottom hem. The shape is kept very simple so that the lace and colour take center stage. It falls in a sleek column over the body with just a subtle nod to shape through the waist. Underneath, it is lined in a high end pink silk whose colour peeks out through the outer layer. I love the wide cut sleeves and how they are finished following the pattern of the lace. Each shoulder has a slight high cap to it that is lovely. It is a dress that may seem unremarkable on a hanger but it transforms into a very chic and elegant piece once on the body. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a pink silk and closes with a hand set back painted metal zipper. Hand set lining and the crochet work is entirely done by hand. It looks to have been worn very little if at all. 

Sleeves: 20"
Shoulders: approx 14.5" but no true seam
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 56" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD2903

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is an exceptional example of Valentino's Haute Couture work that he was doing at the cusp of the 1970s. It is an extension of the collection that he showed for the 1969 with it's ivory colour and chic feel. Finding pieces from this time period in such wonderful condition is a rarity and I am very pleased to have this beautiful coat in the shop. I am also pleased to have found a reference photo from that season so that you have an idea of just how elegant this coat is once on the body. It is an extraordinary and historically important piece of Valentino's couture work and it is utterly gorgeous to boot.

The coat manages to elegantly combine a seemingly simple feel with the precise seams and masterfully tailored precision cut that it is finished with. It is constructed with long vertical seams that create the curves of the coat. The coat is more fitted through the upper bodice and then skims over the waist and flares out just very slightly as it nears the hem. The collar is neat with a beautiful notched front and rounded curves that sit high up on the neck. The fabric is a creamy ivory wool and this fabric choice allowed Valentino to be able to sculpt the exact shape that he desired. Mother of Pearl feeling buttons adorned with a gold brass rims run down the front in a double row for a slight military or pea coat feel. Circling all the way around you above and below the waist line is a series of precisely done pin tucks that add detailing to the coat and also emphasis the waist while still allowing it to simply skim over the body. What is even more extraordinary is that the same pin-tuck detailing has been done to the lining as well. This is the kind of detail that you would only ever see in couture where no detail was left undone. No shortcuts were taken in the construction of this coat and it is a stand out piece in every possible way. Cream and ivory colours is never the easiest to photo and I can assure you that it is even better in person. Excellent condition with a couple of minor notes below.

Fully lined in a hand set ivory silk taffeta. Proper finished buttonholes. The coat closes with buttons at the front and an inner button. Finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely done by hand. Pockets on each hip. This is a medium weight coat. I see a small and very faint mark on the back of one elbow. A slight bit of rust on one button. Please see the shots after the label shot. It looks like some of the inner seams have been reinforced. Any colour change in the photos is lighting. It is a slightly more creamy colour in person and better then how it photoed. 

Sleeves: 22"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 53" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3901

Reference Photo: Spring 1970 Valentino.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is from my same client whose aunt purchased from Ady Couture who I explained in depth in this listing while she was living in Switzerland during the eighties and into the nineties. Prior to that, during the late sixties and into the early 80s her aunt lived in both France and Brussels where she purchased pieces from Louis Mies. Mies was a small independent couturier who did custom work for his clients to couture standards. He designed many piece for the Queen of Belgium and like Ady, he had permission from several of the Haute Couture ateliers to produce their Haute Couture pieces using the patterns and buying the fabric directly from them. I have some new information that he might have sold actual couture pieces through his salon as well. I was not able to find any exact references for this one. It does bear a striking similarity to the 1977 Valentino couture collection pieces and I have included some if those iconic photographs here. Most likely this would have been one of Mies own couture designs. It is absolutely unbelievable in person and one of my favourite personal pieces from her estate so far. 

The level that this dress is made to is a beautiful thing to see. All of the finishes have been done by hand and it has all those lovely details that you expect in a couture level garment. It is made out of a fine black silk taffeta and then parts of the design are edged in a beautiful black Chantilly lace. These fabric choices help it to hold its intended shape and give it the lovely volume that you see. The dress has weight to it but it is not overwhelming once on the body. There are so many yards of fabric used in the construction of this gown that it is mind boggling. The neckline is cut wide across so that it sits off the shoulder. This leaves that bare expanse of skin showing that balances the volume of the dress below. It top is very elaborate. There is a six inch cape feeling ruffle that wraps all the way around your shoulders. This was then edged with a 3.5" band of that stunning handmade black lace. Under that the sleeves are set to peek out to give the illusion of a double cape detail but they are actually true sleeves. They are cut very wide and full and each is also edged in the lace to give the bodice a tiered effect on each side. The actual bodice skims loosely over you and there is a black velvet bow at the centre of the neckline. The waist comes in for shape and I added a grosgrain ribbon to pick up on the bow at the neck and define the waist more. The skirt is a masterpiece. It curves out from the waist and falls to the floor where it widens out even more as it nears the hem. It is made up of three full layers. Inside the skirt is a full built in black silk under-skirt that has wide bands of stiffened netting at the hem and part way up the skirt to help hold the volume. Little ruffles run along the seams of this lining where it is pieced together despite the fact that no one would ever see them. The next layer is an exterior one and it is also made of the black silk taffeta. It has two ruffled tiers at the hem, each of which is edged with the black lace. Where the tiers start near the bottom there is another built in band of netting inside to hold the volume on this layer as well. Then the top taffeta layer falls over those two layers. It is cut to end just above top tier of the middle layer. It curves up at the front to meet the seam at the waist and the lines this creates are gorgeous. The final result of all these tiers and layers is incredibly beautiful. The hours of work that it would have taken to implement the detailing on this dress is mind boggling. The dress is made to couture standards with all the inner seams finished by hand. I have included a shot of one of the inner seams for you to see. It is extraordinary and the kind of quality and beauty that you will only find with vintage. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition with one note below

Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk and constructed as described above. There is a built in black silk taffeta inner skirt. It closes with a painted metal zipper at the back. The inside is all hand done and it is finished to couture standards. There is a couple small repairs / tiny holes on the ruffle on the neckline. There is so much fabric they get lost in the folds. Please see the final shot after the label. It otherwise looks unworn 

Bust: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of natural shoulder to waist
Skirt: 43" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3882

Reference photos: Valentino campaign 1977 shot by Deborah Turbeville

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The woman behind the Maggy Rouff label was Maggy Besançon de Wagner and she started her label in 1928 after working at the Drecoll Haute Couture atelier. After only one season in business the Maggy Rouf label became an official member of the Chambre de commerce et d'industrie de Paris. The label continued to produce Haute Couture until 1965. Maggy developed a staunch following for her work and for her gowns in particular. One of the hallmarks of her designs was that each piece had a main focal point. Like the stunning back panel on this dress for example. Draping techniques, as we see around the hip area on this dress, where also a signature element of her work. This is a stunning dress and her Haute Couture examples are rare and becoming increasingly valuable. 

This dress has all the hallmarks of Haute Couture that you want from this era. It is entirely made by hand and the fabrics that were chosen to make it are exceptionally beautiful. Two different fabrics have been combined to make the dress that you see here. The main body of the dress is made from a rich, luxurious silk brocade made from a gold metallic thread woven through on a purple silk. This gives the dress an exotic, royal feel, and the fabric seems to glow from within as it catches the light from every angle. The thread is woven into the silk and not just applied onto it as a print. This gives it a slightly raised texture to it that is beautiful to touch and feel. Maggy chose a fine matte silk satin in a brilliant purple hue to use for the straps that curve up and over each shoulder and for that incredible inset panel at the back. The dress is cut to skim over you and curve in at the waist for shape. It is cut straight across at the neckline and has a panel in a contrasting pattern that is draped across the bust. The waist is curved in and there is a hand draped gathering that runs softly across the front at the hips. This balances out the panel at the bust and helps to highlight and show your curves in that perfect Hollywood starlet feel of this time period. The back is jaw dropping. The straps curve down to a low set back to leave lots of bare skin exposed. It is gathered in at the back waist to create shape. Inset at the low back is a sweeping train of the purple silk satin. This cascades to the floor ad opens and widens out as it nears the hem to create a trained back skirt. At the small of the back a flat bow in the same purple silk is the perfect finishing touch. Inside the dress there is a fully boned and structured bodice along with a waist stay to hold the dress perfectly in place. This dress is an incredible piece of mid-century Haute Couture. Excellent condition.

The inner bodice is boned and set into the inner purple silk lining. This inner bodice layer closes with its own series of snaps and hooks that run down and behind a painted metal zipper that closes the outermost layer of the dress. An inner waist stay hooks to close. The back train is lined in a stiffened netting to help hold the shape and the hem is finished in dressmakers tape. Inner silk lining. The dress is completely made by hand to the Haute Couture standards of the period and is done with remarkable construction technique. There is one tiny area on the inner lining's hem that has a touch of fading, that of course this is not something you would ever see when on. Perhaps the tiniest bit of grubbiness to the trains hem but I am being extremely picky.  Otherwise appears to have been worn very little if at all

Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5-14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 58" from top of shoulder to front hem, the train extends another 10" ato its longest point at the back

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3851

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is an incredible and rare piece of Dior's history in the fur market. During this time period there were select furriers that had permission to make the Haute Couture pieces and the maker of this coat, Canton Furs in Lausanne was one of those. This coat was made in 1984 and this time period was known as the 'Golden Age' for the Dior fur division. Frederic Castet was appointed the head of the division after joining Dior in 1953. He single handedly restructured the fourrure department to follow the haute couture and the prêt-à-porter philosophy of the house in 1968. He was one of the first to treat fur like fabric and would dye it, trim it, pluck it and create whimsical fantasy pieces that had never been see prior. By the 1980s he was doing extravagant presentations that only showcased his furs. These were held on the second floor of the Dior mansion on Avenue Montaigne. They were as wanted a ticket as the couture shows were and they were legendary in terms of the extravagant spectacles that he would put on to showcase his work. His work was worn by all the major stars from Sophia Loren to Elizabeth Taylor.

This coat was originally purchased for the sum of CHF 120’000, on 11.10.1984. That was about $93,000 USD at the time. I have a digital copy of the original insurance value paper done for the coat that is dated to december 13th 1984 that states its insurance value at FR. 200,000. If you want to talk modern dollars that is well over an astonishing $248,000USD. The insurance papers along with the information given to me by the family also gives us an amazing amount of detail on the coat. It is the Haute Couture model nr. 3007 that was named 'Dynastie'. The sable pelts that is is made out of are some of the rarest on the planet. It is made of a Russian sable, 87 Bargouzine quality skin, ’sauvage pointée’, color grade 3 with a matching belt. We found a very similar model that was photoed for the cover of L'Officiel that year. It is of special interest that during Gianfranco Ferre's tenure at the house he used these same sleeves as inspiration for a sable piece that he post on the runway for the Fall 1994 Haute Couture presentation. I have included both these reference photos for you here. 

The coat is in exceptional condition and appears to have been worn very little if at all. The style is very much like a men’s evening smoking jacket with how it wraps to close at the front. I love that feeling of the masculine contesting with the feminine in this piece. I have done a video for this piece that you can watch to get a really great idea of its suppleness and how it moves. It also shows more of the details on the coat. The sleeves are especially of interest. They are cut exceptionally wide and full and the pelts have been set horizontally to contrast against the vertical pelts on the body of the jacket. At their cuffs they are a full 24" around. Everything about the coat is exquisite and exceptionally made to the very last detail. Even the belt has a special hook that allows you to keep it perfectly in place once it is tied at the front. And if you want to wear the jacket without the belt tied you can hook the belt at the back as I’ve shown in the video so you never have to worry about losing it. For those of you that collect and wear vintage furs this is one of the most exceptional pieces you will ever come across and and it is set at an extraordinary price given its original value. It is truly a one-of-a-kind find. Excellent condition.

Fully lined in a brown silk with a second lining floating over that. It hooks to close at the front with fur hooks and the belt has it own hook as shown in the video. Silk lined pockets on each hip. The fir is exceptionally soft and supple. Because of the the tie front it should work on a variety of sizes. 

Sleeves: approx 24"
Shoulders: soft with no defined seams
Bust: to 22-23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist- hips: open and adjustable when tied
Length: 44" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG

Item# C593

Reference Photos: (1) Original Purchase Insurance Papers.  /  (2) Model in Christian Dior, Officiel de la fourrure, 1984.  /  (3) Fall 1994-95 Dior Haute Couture Runway.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I have a small collection of historically important, key designer labelled vintage furs and fur trimmed pieces stored away in my archives that I will be slowly posting on the site over the next couple of years until I have none left. I will no longer be buying furs for the shop moving forward and have not purchased anything for several years now. I feel like times have changed and while there still is a place for vintage furs for some, including collectors and historians, many modern girls are choosing other options. Many of the pieces in my collection are representative of the designer during a set time period in history that was different then our modern outlook. I have decided that the best course to handle this controversial issue is to let the pieces I have go rather then sit in a cold storage unit. Fur coats are final sale.

The Nina Ricci Haute Couture house was founded in 1932, at 20 Rue de Capucines in Paris and became one of the most famous couture ateliers in the world. In 1954, Jules-François Crahay, Madame Ricci’s design assistant, was appointed the Artistic Director. The house’s style became more structured under his tenure and the signature curves of the Ricci silhouette elongated and became more modern in feel. Designer Gérard Pipart then succeeded Jules-François Crahay in 1964. Throughout the following three decades, Pipart's Haute Couture aesthetic celebrated a more flamboyant, bold woman and his ready-to-wear found a loyal following among the most stylish women of the day. This coat is an early example of Pipart's work for the house and is beautiful. I have dated it to 1965 based on the reference photos included here showing similar pieces from that season. It is exceptional and absolutely beautiful. 

This coat came out of an estate of an extremely wealthy woman who was a regular couture client during the 1960s. For the 1965 collection Gérard Pipart debuted the side button closure that featured large button closures off to one side. A cloth version of this design was photoed on Jean Shrimpton for Harper's Bazaar that year. I also found a reference photo for a similar all fur version. The coat I have for you is a wonderful combination of the two. The exterior is a quilted silk brocade done in a chic and stunning ivory. The fabric that was chosen for this coat is especially beautiful. It has a 3D puffed effect that is not just created by the stitching around the pattern in the silk that you normally see. Rather, different weights and thicknesses of thread have been woven into the fabric to create the design that you see. The interior of the coat is lined an ivory sheepskin that makes it warm and cozy. The design of the coat has been centered around simple but structured lines. The front wraps over itself and buttons with one large silk covered button near the side seam. All of the edges of the coat have been detailed and finished with a thick padded piping in the same fabric. This piping detail runs down the front, around the hem and circles around the end of each sleeve. Pockets lie along the seam on each side. The construction is at a Couture level of course and it is an absolutely stunning coat. This is a beautiful example of how refined true Haute Couture can be anode Pipart's work during this time period. Excellent condition with a note to review below.

The coat closes with the button at the front and there is a button and loop on the interior. The entire coat is lined in sheepskin. Finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely done by hand. Pockets along the seam. I see some fraying to the fabric around the back collar. There is a small mark on the back of one shoulder and a touch a a watermark on the silk of the other shoulder. Please see the photos after the shot of the label. The easy cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes.

Sleeves: 20"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist-hips: 24" flat across from side seam to side seam and gently widens out
Length: 38" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Item# C454

Reference photos: Jean Shrimpton in Nina Ricci for Harper's Bazaar 1965, Avedon; Brigitte Bauer in Nina Ricci for Vogue 1965, William Klien. Historical info on the house verbatim from the Nina Ricci website.

I have a small collection of historically important, key designer labelled vintage furs, fur trimmed & feather pieces stored away in my archives that I will be slowly posting on the site over the next couple of years until I have none left. I will no longer be buying furs for the shop moving forward and have not purchased anything for several years now. I feel like times have changed and while there still is a place for vintage furs for some, including collectors and historians, many modern girls are choosing other options. Many of the pieces in my collection are representative of the designer during a set time period in history that was different then our modern outlook. I have decided that the best course to handle this controversial issue is to let the pieces I have go rather then sit in a cold storage unit. All fur coats, fur trimmed & feather pieces are final sale

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is the last piece from the second batch of very interesting pieces that are coming from a client whose aunt had most of her clothes made. This dress was made by Ady Couture and the story behind this label is fascinating. Ady Couture was based out of Lausanne Switzerland. She would buy couture fabrics from the couture houses along with the patterns and with permission make copies of the piece presented in the Haute Couture collections. When she was younger, and lived in Amsterdam, Ady would attend the private viewing and purchase directly from the couture houses. My client believes that her arrangement with the ateliers was a way to work around customs that prompted Ady to negotiate this arrangement with the ateliers. In my hunt for more information I have been able to verify that they made this permissible copies of the work of Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy, Lacroix and Ungaro. There may have been others but this are the houses I am confident on. The dress is completely made by hand to Haute Couture standards and it is beautiful. A truly iconic piece of couture 

The dress is made from a combination of a black velvet bodice with an attached brilliant emerald green silk skirt. Almost all the piece that were in this second box have been based on Yves Saint Laurent pieces and I would not be surprised if this one was as well. The bodice has been kept sleek and simple with the richness of the black velvet taking centre stage. The shoulders are squared off with light padding to give them shape and the sleeves are cut to be wider at the top and taper down as they reach each wrist. The bodice skims over you and drops on an angle past the waist. At that point the skirt is attached and it is cut to sit on an angle down one hip for a bit of a swag feel. A panel on the skirt wraps and snaps into place from the back, perfectly following the seam. When it reaches the hip it hooks into place under an attached large bow. This gives it the effect that you just wrapped it around yourself and tied it in place. It is quite flattering once on. My dress form definitely does not do it justice and like all couture it really needs an actual body underneath to bring it to life. Every seam is done by hand and the craft put into making this is exquisite. The green of the skirt in person is so much better then how it photoed. It is a clear crisp emerald green and the silk is rich and heavy so that it holds the drape perfectly. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition 

Fully lined in a black silk through the bodice and the skirt is unlined. It closes with a hidden set zipper at the back and there are hidden set zippers at each wrist. The skirt snaps into place as described above. Hand finished throughout. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Made to Haute Couture standards with a tremendous amount of detail put into its construction. 

Sleeves: 24"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 57" from shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD3814

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I am now on the second batch of very interesting pieces that are coming from a client whose aunt had most of her clothes made. This dress was made by Ady Couture and the story behind this label is fascinating. Ady Couture was based out of Lausanne Switzerland. She would buy couture fabrics from the couture houses along with the patterns and with permission make copies of the piece presented in the Haute Couture collections. When she was younger, and lived in Amsterdam, Ady would attend the private viewing and purchase directly from the couture houses. My client believes that her arrangement with the ateliers was a way to work around customs that prompted Ady to negotiate this arrangement with the ateliers. In my hunt for more information I have been able to verify that they made this permissible copies of the work of Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy, Lacroix and Ungaro. There may have been others but this are the houses I am confident on. This one has a decidedly YSL feel to it. This set would have been made during the time period my clients aunt lived in Switzerland, from the late 70s to 1993. The dress is completely made by hand to Haute Couture standards and it is gorgeous.

Black is sometimes so hard to photo and I really feel that this set is not being done full justice with these photos. It  is so much better in person and on an actual body. The jacket is just exceptional in real life. It is entirely made by hand and the majority of the jacket is made of a fine silk netted lace with an open weave. It is backed by a black silk organza so it has just a touch of transparency to it. Then onto that it is covered with burst of densely applied sequins that form large flowers. The shoulders are a solid fabric and this extends down into angled panels at the front and the back. Each shoulder is lightly padded for shape and then the sleeve are long and also have that hint of transparency to them. The bodice skims over you with just a suggestion of of shape through the waist. Big glassy faceted buttons close the jacket down the front. The collar is small and neat and set back from the front of the jacket. The skirt is the perfect simple contrast to that decadent jacket. It is a simple black pencil shape and it is also entirely by hand. The more simple and sleek silhouette balances the drama of the jacket. Both piece are made by hand and have all the couture details we all dream of. It is a fabulous suit that can be made to be a very glamorous evening look. I love that you can also mix and match the pieces with things from your own existing wardrobe. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition 

The jacket is fully lined in a black silk organza where the lace parts are and the opaque panels are lined in a fine black silk. The skirt is also lined in a black silk. The jacket buttons to close down the front and the skirt closes with a side set zipper. The interior shoulders are lightly padded. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Made to Haute Couture standards with a tremendous amount of detail put into its construction. 

Jacket
Sleeves: 22.5"
Shoulders: 15.5"
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24.5" from neck to hem

Skirt 
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD3800

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This dress is one of the piece that were all sourced from one of my clients whose mother purchased the majority of her Couture pieces between 1973 to the mid and late seventies. This one is from Spring 1976 and we were able to find a similar dress to it that was photoed for L'Officiel that year. This one has its top buttons hidden set instead of showing and I think that it makes it even more refined feeling this way. It is an incredibly beautiful example of the work that the Chanel ateliers were doing during this time period. True Haute Couture pieces by Chanel are an extraordinary find as they are so very rare and hard to come by. 

While this one photoed well I think when the person that buys it sees it on person they will be blown away. It is even better in person and the richness and quality of the silk only really can be appreciated when you have it in hand. The dress has been made entirely by hand and the silk is of the highest possible grade. It feels stupendous on. The top is cut ot skim over you and the long sleeves are slightly voluminous above their stunning cuffs. A tie extends out form the neck and as mentioned above the buttons are all hidden set under the seam so the line is not broken down the front. The skirt falls from the waist where the pleats open up so that when you move it lightly moves and floats around you. The dress is a masterclass in pleat work and an example of how finely done a pleat can be. Each pleat is exactly the same size as its neighbor and each lies perfectly as it runs over the dress from shoulder to hem. Every pleat on the dress has been top stitched along its entire edge by hand. The shape of the waist is created by a series of tiny stitched that gently bring the waist in while still holding the vertical line of the pleats. Each cuff is created by doing small pleats at the end of the sleeve and then bringing them in and stitching them down. And the loop for the buttons is on one long strip of silk with opening for the buttons to slide through. Just amazing. It is truly brilliant. Excellent overall condition with minor notes below.

Fully lined through the body in an ivory silk with all interior seams hand finished. It closes with hand made buttons down the front and at each cuff. Finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely done by hand. Haute Couture number 54218. I see a small mark near the seam under the arm, a very faint mark near the hem and a faint mark on the upper back. Please see the photos after the label shot. Note that in person the colour is a rich feeling ivory and better then how it photoed.

Sleeves: 25"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.75" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 45" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3732

Reference Photo: Model in Chanel, L'Officiel Magazine, 1976.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

True Haute Couture pieces by Chanel are an extraordinary find as they are so very rare and hard to come by. This one, like several other of the Haute Couture pieces in the shop at the moment, are from one of my clients whose mother purchased the majority of her Couture pieces between 1973 to the mid and late seventies. This particular set has the added provenance of having its twin photoed on actress Sylvia Kristel. We also found the original presentation photo from the couture collection that year and it shows you just how gorgeous this set will sit on the body once on. It is an incredibly beautiful example of the work that the Chanel ateliers were doing during this time period. 

The set is two pieces. A silk jersey dress that has incredible lines and then a matching silk jersey cardigan that is hand beaded. The dress is made out of two distinct layers. There is a complete inner dress made out of a silk crepe that is cut to skim over you and act as an inner lining. Attached to sit over that is a silk jersey exterior layer. The jersey is all cut on the bias and it is incredibly flattering. The neckline sweeps across the collar bones and sits wide at the front. A thin and open keyhole runs down the center of the bodice from just under the top of the neck to just above the waist. The waist itself is gathered into this elaborate circle that is entirely and meticulously made from hand set pleats. This creates a pretty and soft effect at the front. All around that circle is a series of soft pleats that span outwards. The back is cut onto a deep V for a little bit of skin to show. The skirt falls in a draped column and there is no seam at the waist so the line remains long and beautiful. Over this is a soft cardigan made from the same silk jersey on the exterior. Inside it has been hand lined in a matching red silk chiffon. All of the edges of the cardigan have been covered with beautiful beaded flowers and a border that is made from red and black glass tube beads. These would have been applied and created by hand by Lesage to the exact specifications given by Chanel. The bead work gives the design a slightly raised effect and they have a subtle glimmer in the light. I love this contrast between the bareness of the dress underneath with the coverage of the cardigan. It gives you two completely different looks to work with and wearing it with the jacket completely transforms the look and feel of the dress. It goes from a more bare and sexy dancing dress to something that feels more formal but still with that sense of ease created by the silk jersey. Both pieces are entirely made by hand as Haute Couture dictates and the fabric would have been made specifically for Chanel and this piece. This is a fine and rare example from this time period. It is truly brilliant and when you see it in person you will be astounded at the level of craftsmanship and care put into the construction. In excellent overall condition with notes below.

The dress has an inner attached silk dress and there is a wide grosgrain band that hooks to close at the interior of the waist, The inner dress zips to close under that and the outer dress buttons into place with a series of hand covered silk buttons in a matching fabric. The jacket is fully lined in a red silk chiffon and hooks to close down the front. Both pieces have been completely hand made. The label was removed at some point. There is a are some small marks that I have photoed. They may come out with a more aggressive or specialty cleaning. Please see the photos starting after the shot of the way it closes at the back.

The color in person is more a deep raspberry/ soft burgundy with a bit more of a red pink tome then how it photoed. The waist measurement is taken of the inner grosgrain band. You should be able to add to it if you needed more room and get another inch or two to work with. It is all hidden under the exterior dress so would be a very doable tweak.

Dress
Bust: approx 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner grosgrain at waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner lining hips: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 60" from top of shoulder to hem

Cardigan
Sleeves: 23"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 25" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3730

Reference Photos: (1) SS 1976 Chanel collection in Paris, January 23 1976.  /  (2) Dutch actress and model Sylvia Kristel in Chanel, January 27 1976.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

True Haute Couture pieces by Chanel are an extraordinary find as they are so very rare and hard to come by. This one, like several other of the Haute Couture pieces in the shop at the moment, are from one of my clients whose mother purchased the majority of her Couture pieces between 1973 to the mid and late seventies. This particular suit has the added provenance of having its twin photoed for L'Officiel. It is an incredibly beautiful example of the work that the Chanel ateliers were doing during this time period.

The suit is constructed from an absolutely stunning deep blue and white silk that is like a heavier in weight version of one of their silk scarves. It is beautiful and it is easy to see why it is such a well documented piece. The jacket is a simple box cut that has more softness to it then versions of the suit that you would see made from their heavier boucle. It buttons down the front and I love the added embellishment of a golden lions head that sits on the top of each button. These same buttons also adorn each of the two low set front pockets that are both fully functional and beautifully done. The sleeves are slightly cropped and each end in a white silk cuff. The collar is notched and it is also finished in a white silk. What is remarkable about the collar is that you can actually remove the white silk portion and the collar underneath is the same blue and white silk as the rest of the jacket. This simple change gives the suit an entirely different feel and makes it that much more versatile. I love the hand painted feeling of the dots that cover the silk and how the white of them pops so beautifully against the blue. Inside, the jacket it is meticulously hand lined in a white silk. Circling around the hem is the famous signature Chanel gold chain that adds a subtle even weight all the way around and helps to keep the lines of the jacket perfectly in place. The skirt is cut with a slight flare is it nears the hem and has a series of flat knife pleats on both sides. The waist line is finished to lie flat against the body and the pleats don't open up until after the hip. Once they do open you you get a soft flare to the bottom of the skirt. This is classic Chanel right down to the chain that is stitched by hand into the hem of the jacket. It is exceptional. Excellent condition with a very small note below.

Both pieces are fully lined in a hand set, fine white silk. The interior hem of the jacket is finished with their signature gold metal chain. The skirt closes with a series of snaps along with a hook & eye at the waist. The jacket buttons down the front. Both piece are hand finished to couture standards. Proper couture labels present. Sourced from the original couture client. There is one white dot on the jacket that has a touch of darkening to it. Please see the photo after the label shots. Minor grubbiness to cuffs and collar from natural wear and aging.

Jacket
Sleeve: 20.5"
Shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 22.5" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 26" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3727

Reference Photo: S/S 1977 Chanel Haute Couture, L'Officiel

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is one the last of this batch of amazing pieces from my client whose aunt had most of her clothes made. This one, like several others already in the shop, was made by Ady Couture and the story behind this label is fascinating. Ady Couture was based out of Lausanne Switzerland. She would buy couture fabrics from the couture houses along with the patterns, and then with permission from the ateliers, would make copies of the pieces presented in the Haute Couture collections from those ateliers  When she was younger, and lived in Amsterdam, Ady would travel to attend the private viewing and purchase directly from the couture houses and built up strong relationships with them. My client believes that negotiating the arrangement to make things at her own atelier was a way to work around customs and that is what prompted Ady to negotiate this unusual arrangement with the various couture houses. In my hunt for more information I have been able to verify that they made permissible copies of the work of Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy, Lacroix and Ungaro. There may have been others but this are the houses I am confident on. Both the skirt and jacket in this set have been completely made by hand to Haute Couture standards. I am sure that this one is based off of a YSL suit as it has all the hallmarks of his work during this time period.

I love this more formal full length skirt and the fact that you can mix and match the pieces of this suit with other things already in your closet. The jacket is tailored with strong shaped and padded shoulders. It is box cut through the body and meant to be slightly over-sized in the way it sits through the shoulders. It has a belt that came with it and that is used to cinch in the waist and create shape. The collar is angled and strong. Large red buttons with a stripe of gold metal run down the front. More of these same buttons run down each cuff and all of the buttonholes on the sleeves are functional. Pockets are top set on the hips and a third pocket sits on the breast of the jacket. The color is a strong bright red and the fabric is ribbed which gives it a wonderful texture. The skirt is cut in a long column of a fine black wool that falls to the floor. There is a black, flat braided detailing that runs down each side to give the suit a subtle nod to a tuxedo. High slits run up each side of the leg so when you walk or sit you get a glimpse of leg. It is very striking and strong silhouette. And it is completely made to Haute Couture standards. Excellent condition with a small note below.

The skirt is hand lined in a black silk and the jacket is hand lined in a red silk. The jacket buttons to close down the front. The skirt has a zipper and hook & eye at the waist. Hand made padding in each shoulder. Couture finished inner seaming. I see a faint spot near the pocket of the jacket and the fabric behind the belt at the front shows faint rubbing. Please see the photos after the label shot. The skirt appears to have been worn very little if at all. Made to Haute Couture standards with a tremendous amount of detail put into its construction.

Jacket
Sleeves: 22"
Padded shoulders: 18"
Bust: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 25" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 41" from waist to hem
Slits: 19.5" from hem up

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD3721

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

One of the key elements of the spring 1973 collection was the snap closures that Courreges used. They played a two fold role in that they were a functional element that actually acted as closures and they where also a decorative design feature that helped to highlight his signature cuts. In the runway reference photo that I have included here, you can see the same snap detailing. This is a beautiful and rare example of his Haute Couture work from this time period that still feels fresh and wearable even now.

The suit is made from the classic wool that Courreges was using for his pieces during this time period. It has enough weight to hold the sharp angular lines of the suit but without adding bulk or making it feel too heavy to wear for our modern aesthetics. The colour is a beautiful deep blue that has been captured well in these photos. The wool has  a slight texture to it. The stitching and the snaps have all been dyed to match the colour of the suit. This lets you see the seaming and detail but in a way that gives you the full picture all at once. The jacket is beautifully cut. It is meant to skim over the body with just a touch of a boxy feel to it. The sleeves are capped and the shoulders are seamed but have no additional padding. The shape is all created by the cut and perfect tailoring techniques. To wear it you simply slip the jacket on and it snaps into place down the front. The top stitched seaming detail is done to follow the lines of the jacket and become their own design element. The skirt is spectacular. It is cut to be fitted around the waist and then is cut on an angle to the hem. I have photoed it flat for you as well as on the dress form so that you get a better feel for the shape. It has an unusual way to close. There are snaps that run down each side and you can fully unsnap it on both sides. The bottom two snaps at the hem are decorative so that you get a bit of a vent on either side but all the snaps above it open. This lets you open the sides up and leave the resulting slit as high up as you dare. It is an incredible example of his work. The exterior of the suit is in excellent condition and there is a note below regarding the lining

Both pieces are fully lined in a white silk and close with the snaps as described above. There is an area of fabric missing from the interior of the skirt. It is stable and does not effect the wearing of the suit. Tagged a vintage Courreges 00

Jacket
Shoulders: 12" across
Bust: 16.5" flat across the back from seam to seam
Waist: 14.5" flat across the back from seam to seam
Length: 18" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 12" flat across the back from seam to seam
Hips: 17" flat across the back from seam to seam
Length: 22.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing equivalent: XXS-XS

Item# DD1091

Reference photo: Andre Courreges Haute Couture Spring 1973

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival

I have several interesting pieces that have come in from a client whose aunt had most of her clothes made. This dress was made by Ady Couture and the story behind this label is fascinating. Ady Couture was based out of Lausanne Switzerland. She would buy couture fabrics from the couture houses along with the patterns and with their permission would make copies of the piece presented in the Haute Couture collections. When she was younger, and lived in Amsterdam, Ady would attend the private viewing and purchase directly from the couture houses. My client believes that her arrangement with the ateliers was a way to work around customs and this was the work around that that Ady negotiated with the ateliers. In my hunt for more information on the label I have been able to verify that they made this permissible copies of the work of Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy and Ungaro. There may have been others but this are the four houses I am confident on. I feel that this particular dress has a more Yves Saint Laurent or Ungaro feel to it and I am still actively searching to find its counterpart. The dresses are completely made by hand to Haute Couture standards and are incredible to see.

The dress is made from a silk taffeta and this fabric choice allows it to hold those extravagant lines that you see. It is absolutely beautiful and a testament to the level of design that you only see in couture pieces. The colour of the silk is extraordinary. I have managed to almost capture it in these photos but in person it is even richer feeling then what you see here. At the front the neckline is set in a simple high scoop. The bodice is cut to skim over your curves and is simple in cut to let the other details shine. The sleeves are a work of art. Each is made on a curve to follow the shape of the arm. They are set into the shoulders with a beautiful series of soft pleats so that you get a beautiful sense of volume there. They then taper down to the cuffs where they zip to close around the wrist. The waist is seamed and the skirt is set around the waist in a series of soft gathers that sit out from the waist slightly. This gives the illusion that the waist is smaller then it is and is quite genius. The skirt is one of the best skirts I have seen both from a design point of view and by its level of construction. It is made into two sections. The top section comes out from the soft gathered pleats all around the waist and then it balloons out all around you in a full pouf. It is seamed underneath to catch the fabric back inwards and then the second part of the skirt falls to the floor. That second tier has many yards of silk in it so that it flares out as it reached the hem. Between the two sections is a wide velvet ribbon that wraps around the seam and then you tie it into a bow at the side. What is truly incredible is that all the volume and shape that you see is created purely through the way it is cut and the fabric choice. The skirt does not have extensive underskirts to shape it. The silk of the skirts are interlined in a silk organza to help give it more weight but it is really the genius of the cut that gives it the intended shape. The final perfect detail is the elaborate detailing that runs across the front and back of the bodice and over the sleeves. All of the work is by hand. The intricate floral design has been created by combining embroidery work with tiny black sequins and beads. It is some of the finest hand work I have seen and I love how they have deliberately laid the sequins out so that you get a more matte feel for parts of the design. Inside the dress is completely finished to couture standards with every seam is hand finished. I have taken some detail shots for you to see the fine workmanship inside. It is an incredible piece and absoluteyly beautifully made. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition 

The bodice is fully lined in a matching gold toned silk and the skirt is fully interlined with a slightly gold tinged silk organza. It closes with a back fine zipper and the skirt snaps into place with silk covered snaps over it. Hidden set zippers at each wrist. Hand finished throughout. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Made to Haute Couture standards with a tremendous amount of detail put into its construction.

Sleeves: 26"
Slightly inset shoulders: 13.5"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15.5" from shoulder to waist
Length: 42" from waist to front hem, 45" to the back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3685

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is from my same client whose aunt purchased from Ady Couture who I explained in depth in this listing while she was living in Switzerland during the eighties and into the nineties. Prior to that, during the late sixties and into the early 80s her aunt lived in both France and Brussels where she purchased pieces from Louis Mies. Mies was a small independent couturier who did custom work for his clients to couture standards. He designed many piece for the Queen of Brussels and like Ady, he had permission from several of the Haute Couture ateliers to produce their Haute Couture pieces using the patterns and buying the fabric direct. . After some research I think this is inspired  by the Fall 1982 Givenchy collection. In that collection he had many pieces that had similar silhouettes to this one. Given her overall wardrobe, her love of couture, it is not a stretch to make that leap. It is beyond beautiful in person and one of my favourite personal pieces from her estate so far. 

The level that this dress is made to is a beautiful thing to see. All of the finishes are by hand and it has all those lovely details that you expect in a couture level garment. It is made out of a black silk taffeta and this fabric choice helps it to hold its intended shape. On the main body of the dress the silk has been finished with hand embroidered roses. These are made with a chenille velvet thread that is worked through the silk to form large roses that cover the entire dress. Scattered over and around the roses are dots that are made with the same chenille. This gives the dress an incredible 3D texture and and depth. The flowers also add such a lovely and romantic feel to the dress. The bodice is more fitted and the neckline is scooped low across the front. It buttons to close down the front and then there is an elaborate set of snaps and hooks that follow the waist line and carry over to the side where there is a hidden set zipper. The top is cut to follow your curves and the waist is cinched in. The sleeves are a work of art. Each is made on a curve to follow the shape of the arm. They are set into the shoulders with a beautiful series of soft pleats so that you get a bit of volume there. They then taper down to the wrist. The skirt is equally well made. It curves out from the hips, falling to the floor, and then widens out as it nears the hem. Inside the skirt is a full built in black silk under-skirt. That inner skirt is finished with an edging of black silk ruffles and it set slight below the top skirt in length. So when you move a certain way or sit you get just a glimpse of the ruffles at the hem. This technique also helps to hold the shape of the skirt. I think my favourite detail is the rolled pleats that circle the waist. Each is made by hand and each perfectly matches its neighbour. The hours of work that it would have taken to implement these is mind boggling. The interior is made to couture standards with all the inner seams finished by hand. I have included some shots of the inner seams for you to see. It is extraordinary and the kind of quality and beauty that you will only find with vintage. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition

Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk crepe chiffon. There is a built in black silk taffeta inner skirt. It closes with button and loops down the front. At the waist there is an elaborate series of silk covered snaps and hooks that close along the waist line and then it zips at the side with a hidden set fine metal zipper. Inner waist stay that hooks to close. There is at least an inch and a bit of fabric on either side of each inner seams through the bodice to let it out if needed. The inside is all hand done and it is finished to couture standards. 

Sleeves: 24"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Skirt: 42" from waist to hem with 3" turned under the hem 

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3682

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is an incredible Haute Couture dress that came to me unlabeled. After some research and feedback from my client I think this may be a Givenchy or a Givenchy copy. I have a Givenchy in my own archives from his demi-couture boutique label from this same time period and the construction of the sleeves and the overall lines of the dress are remarkably similar other then the fact that this dress was entirely made by hand. Given the client's overall wardrobe and love of couture combined with the level of workmanship in the dress it is not a stretch. It could also be another of her Ady Couture piece as well. Ady Couture was based out of Lausanne Switzerland. She would buy couture fabrics from the couture houses along with the patterns and with permission make copies of the piece presented in the Haute Couture collections. When she was younger, and lived in Amsterdam, Ady would attend the private viewing and purchase directly from the couture houses. My client believes that her arrangement with the ateliers was a way to work around customs that prompted Ady to negotiate this arrangement with the ateliers. In my hunt for more information I have been able to verify that they made this permissible copies of the work of Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy and Ungaro. There may have been others but this are the four houses I am confident on. It is priced as an Ady piece and the context that it would have with that label. The dress is completely made by hand to Haute Couture standards and it is incredible.

The dress is made from a black silk taffeta and this fabric choice allows it to hold the almost sculptural lines that you see. It is absolutely beautiful and a testament to the level of design that you only see in couture pieces. At the front the neckline dips into a V and the dress is vertically seamed to follow and curve over the body. The sleeves are a work of art. Each is made on a curve to follow the shape of the arm They are set into the shoulders with a beautiful series of soft pleats so that you get a bit of volume there. They then taper down to the cuffs where they zip to close around the wrist. At the back the dress is cut into a second V that is lower then the one at the front so that you get a bare expanse of skin. The waist is set to curve in at the front for a suggestion of shape but at the back is is cut so that the low waist and the top of the skirt lifts off and away from the body for more of a sense of volume. The skirt at the front is cut on a bell and curves gracefully away from the hips. At the back it is fuller and cut to fall longer then the front. Underneath is an interior skirt that is edged in a ruffle of black silk netting so that when you move you see just a peek of that from under the top skirt. At the top of the inner underskirt are layers of silk that help to hold the shape at the hips. Otherwise all of the volume is created but the cut and the fabric alone. The perfect final detail is the series of dots that you see scattered over the sleeves and bodice of the dress. These run past the waist and circle the upper portion of the skirt. They are various sizes and some are made from circles of tiny silver sequins while others are a iridescent pale blue sequin. The blue ones catch the light and range from silver to an ice blue. It's incredible. There are also some that are made from the finest little crystal beads. Inside the dress is completely finished to couture standards with every seam hand finished. I have taken some detail shots for you to see the fine workmanship inside. It is an incredible piece and just beautifully made. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition 

The bodice is unlined and the skirt is fully lined with a built in underskirt in a black silk taffeta. Built in paniers around the hip area that I have photoed for you. It closes with a back fine zipper and the skirt snaps into place with silk covered snaps over it. Hidden set zippers at each wrist. Hand finished throughout. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. There may be the occasional sequin or crystal missing on the dots but no bare spots.  Made to Haute Couture standards with a tremendous amount of detail put into its construction.

Sleeves: 24"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 58" from top of shoulder to front hem, 60" to the back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3677

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is an incredible dress that would be from when Marc Bohan was head of the Dior atelier before he retired in 1989. It is a beautiful example of the work being produced by Christian Dior in this time period. In the book Dior; Catwalk, the notes on the fall collection state that the collection was placed 'under the sign of opposites' and that he had looked to the work of Abstract Expressionist painter Jackson Pollock for inspiration. Pieces were adorned in drip embroidery and motifs and then he did a series of long sheath dresses that were 'accessorized with 'Pollock jewels" in jet and multi colour stones'. In the book there is a photo of a long velvet dress with a jacket over it and I wonder if that is a glimpse of the back of the twin of this one. This may have been one of the simple 'sheath like pieces' that were shown with jewels rather then the embroidery you see on the other dresses in the photo. The dress is a true Haute Couture piece and has the appropriate numbered label intact.

The dress is made out of a soft textured silk velvet in a jet black. Using a velvet that has this added texture to it is an incredible choice as the dress catches the light in different ways as you move and it really makes it come to life. The cut is simple and sleek with a low front neckline that dips from an angle created over each shoulder. It slightly curves down to the centre and then the fabric is softly gathered down the centre to the waist. This leaves it with a  slightly bloused over feel over the the nipped in waist. The sleeves are cut long and they slim down as they reach the wrists. There is a slight volume built in at the outer part of each shoulder. On the inside I see hand made silk cases that at one time had light padding in them but the padding has been removed at some point to give it a softer shape. You could easily have some padding put back in if you wanted a stronger shoulder.  Inside the bodice is a more fitted and boned inner silk corseted piece that holds you in place while the silk velvet simply drapes softly over that outside. The skirt is cut to feel sleek and simple and falls to the floor with just a touch of gentle widening as it reaches the hem. A vent runs up the back so that you can walk. It is a beautiful and dramatic piece despite its simple lines. It is meant to be slightly more voluminous through the top and then slimmer through the skirt as was the fashion at the time. Excellent condition with a very minor note below.

Fully interlined in a fine black silk satin and then has a built in bodice made of black silk. The inner bodice is boned and closes with its own zipper as photoed. The exterior dress closes with a back painted metal zipper. Each sleeve has a zipper at the cuff. Appropriate numbered tag present with couture number 19469. Silk hand made pads that have no padding inside each shoulder as described above. Slight damage to the silk on either side of the zipper on the inner corset. Please see the photo after the label shot. 

Sleeves: 23"
Soft shoulders: to 16.5"
Inner bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam with room for up to a B cup
Inner waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 13.5" from shoulder to waist
Length: 45" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3611

Reference Photo: F/W 1984 Christian Dior Couture Runway Collection as shown in the book 'Dior; Catwalk'.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Jean Paul Gaultier's career spans decades. His first show was in 1976 and his avant garde designs quickly gained him the reputation of being fashion's 'l'enfant terrible'. His designs mixed cultures with abandon, gender norms were blurred through his pieces and the body was presented encased in ways unimaginable prior to his brilliant vision. In 1997 he entered the sanctified world of Haute Couture and for just over two decades produced stunning work cumulating with his final show for Spring 2020. His pieces of couture rarely come to market and I am very pleased to have this dress that is very well documented and instantly recognizeable. This is the twin of the dress shown for the Fall 2000 Haute Couture presentation entitled 'Paris and its Muses'. I have included the original runway photos for reference here for you. The dress was also photoed for Vanity fair on Doutzen Kroes. Fast forward to 2013 where the twin of this dress was featured in the The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk exhibit. I actually attended the opening of that show in San Francisco and it is surreal to now have the actual dress in hand as I remember swooning over it on display. This dress was obviously a favourite of Jean Paul's because he chose to recreate a version of it for his Fall 2018 Couture collection. That 2018 version was then worn by Rita Ora for the 2018 MTV VMAs. This may have been the only original piece ever produced beyond the piece that was shown in the exhibition. 

The dress is an incredible work of art. It is made from a layer of silk netting that falls over an interior nude coloured lingerie weight stretch silk. This makes it very easy to wear and be comfortable in despite the dramatic feel it has to everyone seeing it. Onto the silk netting at hand made and hand applied tubes of silk with a stiffened netting inside that gives them the 3D dimension that you see. The entire dress would have had to have been careful planned out prior to its creation. Every single word that you see running over its surface would have had to have been laid out and planned for how it would be placed onto the dress before it was even started. Each word would have had to have been figured out as to the degree it would curve over the body and then it would have been all meticulously brought to life. The letters cover the dress from head to toe and the closer you look the more you see the French words 'Cherie',  'Mon Amour', 'Jean Paul Gaultier', 'Paris' and more as the hand written script cascade and curves it way down the length of the dress. It falls from the shoulders in a long swoop that widens out as it nears the hem. I love how the hem is curved and swooped to follow the final words across the bottom. The script and the netting inside the words also helps to keep the shape of the dress that you see in my photos as they act as structure and support. In a way like a crinoline but attached on the outside rather then worn underneath and hidden. The top is sleeveless and the straps are just wide enough to accommodate the lettering that runs over them. The front scoops down and the back dips into a V. The waist is easy and then it flares out dramatically to the hem. It is bias cut so should fit a range of sizes. Inside you can see how all of the seams are finished with proper couture techniques. This is a dress that would have taken hundreds of hours to complete and is literally like wearing an art piece come to life. To have a piece available for purchase is almost as rare as being able to have bought it as a couture client in the first place. Truly one of the most magnificent pieces he has ever created. Excellent condition with some very minor notes below 

Composed of two layers, the inner nude lingerie weight stretch silk and then the netted layer over that. The inner layer closes with a zipper and the outer layer snaps to close with a tightly spaced series of tiny snaps.  The dress looks to have been worn very little if at all. There is some minor stress to the netting around the seam of the armholes. I see a couple of the ends of a word that have popped through the silk a bit and some small tiny snags to the netting here and there. All of these are very minor. Please see the photos after the Couture label. All the work is done by hand to Haute Couture standards. Proper Couture tag present. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Sourced from the original couture client  

Bust: 15-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15 " flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 62" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3612

Reference Photos: (1-2) Fall 2000 Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Runway Collection.  /  (3) Doutzen Kroes in Jean Paul Gaultier couture from the 2000 collection for Vanity Fair, 2009.  /  (4-8) Jean Paul Gaultier exhibition at the Grand Palais, 2015.  /  (9) Fall 2018 Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Runway Collection. Look 34.  /  (10-12) Rita Ora in Jean Paul Gaultier at the 2018 MTV VMAs.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This dress comes directly from the original couture client and is an exceptional example of Valentino's Haute Couture work that he was doing during the 1980s. Finding pieces from this time period is a rarity and I am very pleased to have this beautiful dress in the shop. I am also pleased to have found several documentations of the dress from that season. The dress is featured in the book "A Grand Italian Epic: Valentino Garavani" by Taschen, which is considered to be one of the definitive volumes on Valentino's work. It was also featured in the March issue of Italian Vogue. That layout was photoed by Steven Klein and the dress was modeled by Monica Gripman. It was also shot on model Brynja Sverris for one of the Valentino campaigns that year. This is one of his most recognizable dresses that he has ever created and you instantly recognize it as being by him the second that you see it. It is an extraordinary and historically important piece of Valentino's couture work. This would also make an exception bridal dress for the non traditional bride or as a secondary dress to change into.

This dress is extraordinary. The lines of it are pure poetry. The front of the dress has been done with a minimalist feel and its entire design is deliberate to give you just a glimpse of what will happen when you turn around. The top overlay is made of a black silk faille and the neckline is high and slightly scooped. It curves and skims over the bust and nips in gently at the waist. The shape that you see is all done with beautiful curving vertical seams so that there is no line to break the sweep of the eye. This then extends into a long panel that lays over the inner skirting. It is cut on one side with more of a curved line, while the other side is set on a slight straigher line that runs up to the the detailing at the back. This slight asymmetrical cut is fascinating and it is done so subtly that at first your eye does not see it. Instead you only see how this allows the underskirt to sweep out slightly more on one side then the other. From under that the skirt flares out and back in a tremendous sweep of fabric. The underskirt is also made out of a heavy silk faille in a creamy ivory with black dots. Many yards of silk have been used its construction and it designed to have massive volume at the back. From every angle of the dress you get these wondrous sweeping views. At the back the black silk is cut into a V and set slightly to one side. Where each side of the front overlay meet, there is a huge ivory silk flower. The lines that lead up and towards the flower are all curving perfection and the way that the black sweeps up to meet the flower is a moment in itself. The flower is huge and sits nestled in the crook of your low back. The interior of the dress is made to couture standards and is as stunning as the exterior. There are attached inner tulles that give the skirt its shape and volume. It is one of the most beautiful dresses I have seen. It is an amazing example of his earlier Haute Couture work. Excellent condition with a couple of minor notes below. 

The dress is lined in a black silk and there are attached underskirts in silk tulle. It closes with an inner zipper that is attached to the underskirt with a second exterior zipper over that. Inner waist stay hooks to close. The panel where the flower is set snaps into place with hand covered silk covered snaps. I see some grubbiness at the hem and on the flower and a repair to one of the tulle underskirts at the back. Near the base of the inner zipper the fabric has come away from the seam. All of these are minor. Please review the photos provided after the label shot. Finished with Haute Couture construction techniques throughout. 

Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 58" from top of shoulder to front hem, 68" to the longest point of the back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3604

Reference Photos: (1) Brynja Sverris in S/S 1988 Valentino Haute Couture by Gianpaolo Barbieri.  /  (2-3) Monica Gripman in Valentino Haute Couture for Vogue Italia, March 1988. Photos by Steven Klein.  /  (4-5) S/S 1988 Valentino Haute Couture Dress as shown in the book "A Grand Italian Epic: Valentino Garavani" by Taschen.  /  (6-7) Queen Sofia of Spain in Valentino, meeting Queen Elizabeth, at the Palacio Real de Madrid, in Madrid, for a state banquet in Spain, 18 October 1988.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Christian Lacroix launched his Haute Couture house in 1987 and his work was instantly revered world wide. He defined an era and he was crowned the King of Couture. A ready-to-wear line soon followed along with perfumes and menswear. His collections were always exotic and lavish affairs. He drew his inspirations from across the decades and I doubt there was ever a more high glamour couturier. This dress is very special and a stunning example of his work during this time period. It has all the signature Lacroix drama that you could ask for. It comes to me from the original couture client. The twin of this piece walked the runway that season. My client ordered hers in a slightly different shade of silk taffeta and the atelier changed the colour of the stone in the jewelled brooches to match this fabric selection. His couture pieces rarely come to market and this is an exception example of his work. 

The dress is beautiful. It is made out of an iridescent silk taffeta that changes colour slightly depending on how the light hits it. It can go from a deep bronze colour to an iridescent blue tone. Each sleeve is long and slim and cut to end just above the wrist. A row of five silk covered buttons runs up each wrist with working silk loops. The body of the dress is cut into a simple sheath and then it has been gathered up along one side and secured in place with that incredible huge brooch. The brooch is a gold metal circle that has large golden topaz glass crystals mixed with brilliant blue glass stones. The neckline folds over in a curve of fabric and is set very wide across the shoulders, angling down to leave one shoulder bare. The back is tremendously beautiful. That wide neckline from the front dips and angles down at the back to leave a large part of your back exposed. I love how the silk takes on a draped and wrapped effect as it is brought down to the point where the bare expanse of skin ends. Another huge jewelled brooch has then been pinned in place there to anchor the draping. Below that a stiffened panel of silk flares out dramatically to one side in a half bow effect. I have included some shots of the clever way the dress and back close and you can see the meticulous work that has been put into the piece to ensure it drapes perfectly. Excellent condition with a couple of small notes below

Fully lined in a black silk organza and closes with an elaborate mix of a zipper, snaps and hooks at the back. One flaring panel loops through the other. It is in wonderful condition with a few small things to note from normal wear. There is rubber ribboning along the neckline to hold it in place and this has changed colour here and there. There is one stone missing at the bottom of the front brooch. The brooches are removable and you can see little marks on the fabric under them where the pin has been pushed through in different places. There are a couple teeny pinhead marks on the fabric where the brooches have caught on the silk near the brooches. Very minor. It is really in stunning condition. Unlabeled and sourced from the original couture client

Sleeves: 19.5"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 36" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3602

Reference Photo: Fall/Winter 1990 Christian Lacroix Haute Couture Runway.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.