This is a rare example of Hanae Mori Haute Couture from the Spring 2000 collection. This dress is an especially  interesting couture example because it illustrates how couture pieces are made specifically for the client when they are produced and are not always an exact copy of what was shown on the runway. The dress itself is a sleeveless version of Look 7 from the Spring 2000 runway but the print on the silk was shown in the Fall 1990 Haute Couture collection. I have included a reference photo of both of those for you. I love the idea that the client had this dress made but somehow saw or remembered the print from a full ten years before this and asked to have it made in that earlier print. It just shows how much love and care goes into couture and how it is truly made for each individual client. Hanae was the first woman of Japanese descent to have presented on the Paris and New York Runways and the first Asian woman to be admitted as an official Haute Couture house to La Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. Haute Couture examples by her are a rare find and this one is exceptionally beautiful. With its level of customization it is most certainly the only one that would have ever been made. 

The dress is entirely made by hand and is stunning. It is suspended from the shoulder by two tiny silk straps. These curve over your shoulders and meet the peaked bodice at the front and the dropped edge at the back. The bodice is hand draped to create soft folds that follow the curving angle of the panels. I love how she has mixed two shades of silvery greys there. The front is set in high peaks above the breasts and it dips at the front into a V. It then curves around the back to leave the upper back exposed. The silk hugs in and around the lower back. The skirt is set into that structured bodice giving it a touch of an empire feel. It has one of her custom designed prints screened onto feather light silk layers on both the exterior layer and on the inner dress. The print is a beautiful forested mountain scene that is done in grey-scale. This runs from the hem to to about the hips all around the dress. In the ivory above the forest print you see her signature butterflies floating on the imagined air currents. Some of the butterflies are almost ghostly in the way that they are printed onto the silk and they are incredibly beautiful. The scene is printed on both the silk chiffon top layer and the silk twill inner layer. This allows the two prints on each layer to be slightly offset as they float over each other giving the print an extra dimension of depth. Doing this layered technique is one of her signatures. By using a slightly transparent silk chiffon for the top layer she also builds in that sense of lightness that the dress has. The skirt widens out as it nears the hem as the front and has a softness to it as the chiffon floats over the inner layer. At the back it is cut longer then the front and flows down and past the ground beautifully. The movement and drama this creates is extraordinary. This dress came with a huge single layer silk chiffon shawl that has that same forest and butterfly print screened onto it. It is so large that it creates a caped effect if you decide to wear it simple draped over the shoulders. You could wrap and style it many different ways for different styling effects. It just adds to the air floating feel the dress has and it is wonderful to have this little extra bit of romance. The dress is a stunning example of her work and beautifully made. Finding her true couture pieces is rare. This would even make a beautiful wedding dress for someone looking for something non-traditional. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a hand set cream silk. It has a fully built in inner boned bodice that closes with its own independent zipper. A second hidden set zipper closes the exterior. The top silk chiffon layer of the skirt hides the zipper below it and closes over the zipper with her signature teeny tiny fabric covered snaps. An inner waist stay hooks to close. Hand finished throughout to Haute Couture standards. The proper Haute Couture label is present and it has its hand written couture tape underneath marked #C 1109 5.4.2000. There is the very faintest of tiny marks to the silk just below the waist line. Perhaps the tiniest of pulls to the fabric here and there and a small bit of scuffing to the inner lining of the train. Please see the photo after the label shot for the exterior mark noted here. All minor and other wise is appears to have been worn very little if at all unworn.

Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15.5" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 44" from waist to shortest point of front hem, 59" to the back hem
Shawl: 36" x 124"

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD3020

Reference Photo: (1) Hanae Mori F/W 1990 Haute Couture Collection.  /  (2) Hanae Mori S/S 2000 Haute Couture Collection. (3-4) Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon. Cherie is wearing a Magnetic Midnight X Shrimpton Couture 'Shooting Stars' Headpiece - available on the site here >

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Bill Gibb was one of the most influential designers in 1970s Britain and his clothes were sought out and worn by the rich and famous. His work has a high fantasy element and he was crowned Designer of the Year in 1970. Much of his work verged on couture and he was unrelenting in striving for perfection. A dress from this same 1976 collection was photoed on Tina Chow by David Bailey for Vogue. I have included those reference photos here and you can clearly see the same ribbon detailing and pleating technique used on both pieces. His pieces were never produced in large quantities and this one is exceptional. I would not be surprised to find out that it was a one off and a custom piece. It is wonderful to have such a gorgeous example of his work in the shop.

This is an amazing example of his work. It is made up of two pieces. Inside there is a very long full length skirt. Over that sits that fantastic evening coat piece that has a built in silk part on the top and then flows to the ground in a cloud of netting. The inner skirt is beautiful. It is made out of a fine silk chiffon with a soft pink silk lining. The top layer of silk is knife pleated so that it has a lot of movement. It is detailed around the hem with a pretty ribbon finish made up of three stripes of silk satin ribbon in a pale blue, a pink and a mint green. This sits under the evening jacket that has a built in top that is made out of silk. The same striping detailed that the skirt has is used to edge the inner portion of the top. So you see the stripes on the skirt and the top through the netting of the jacket and it adds depth. The inner top is made from the same silk and chiffon combination as the skirt and treated with that same knife pleating technique. Attached and layered over that is the netted part. It is here that the high couture fantasy aspect of the piece goes into full play. The neckline is cut wide across so it almost sits off the shoulder. The fabric on this outermost layer is a fine ivory netting that has a stunning design of flowers and vines hand embroidered over it that covers it from shoulder to hem. I love how the pattern gets denser as it nears the hem. Each bit of that design is hand embroidered with a multi-colored pastel thread that has a metallic silver running through it. It is like wearing a work of art. The combination of the embroidery work and the metallic of the silver is incredibly beautiful and delicate in feel. All of the edges are finished with silver cording and there is a long tie of the same silver cording at the neck. The sleeves are even more incredible. They are cut extra long and each has an inner pleated base made out of a pale pink silk chiffon that is knife pleated like the skirt and inner top. Over this is a slightly more ivory toned silk netting that poufs out from the shoulder and is caught up just below the elbow. It then flares back out, widening as it reached the end of the sleeve. Each sleeve is densely hand embroidered with that same metallic thread as the body of the jacket. Long silver cords hang down from the seam at the elbow. No matter how much you might love the photos this one is even better in person. The workmanship in it has to be seen in person. It would even make a beautiful choice for a bride who is looking for an alternative to the traditional wedding dress or as a part of a wedding event. Excellent condition

Both piece are fully lined in a pale pink silk. The skirt closes with a metal and nylon zipper. The top slips on to wear with snaps and hook and eye at the very top of the inner most silk part. The colours in person are softer and bit more pink feeling in person. There is some light fading to one side of the skirt near the closures but its very minor. 

Skirt
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips at inner lining: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 44" from waist seam to hem

Top/Overlay
Sleeves: approx 31"
Shoulder opening: approx 17"
Bust: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist- hips: open
Length: 25" from top of shoulder to hem of inner top, 58" from shoulder to the full length hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3081

Reference Photos: (1-2) Tina Chow in an ensemble by Bill Gibb. Photographed by David Bailey for British Vogue, April 1976.  /  (3-4) Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The Nina Ricci brand was founded in 1932, at 20 Rue de Capucines in Paris and quickly became one of the top couture ateliers in the world. In 1964, Gérard Pipart succeeded Jules-François Crahay, Nina Ricci's former designer assistant as head of the brand. Over the following three decades, Pipart's couture vision 'celebrated a flamboyant woman and his ready-to-wear found a loyal following among the most stylish women of the day.' This dress is from the Fall 1994 collection and I have included the runway reference photo here. In an interview with WWD in 1995, Pipart was asked about the state of couture upon his arrival to Nina Ricci and I love his reply; 'When I arrived everyone was predicting the death of couture, so I was keen to get in for what were meant to be the final few years. And despite what people like Pierre Bergé and many others predicted, couture has lasted a lot longer than anyone ever thought.' Pipart's designs for the Couture collections often combined high fantasy elements and this dress with its ultra long back is an amazing example of his work during this time period. 

The twin of this dress walked the runway of the Fall 1994 collection. It is absolutely beautiful and every detail has been done by hand. The dress has a sculpted feel to it that is softened by the pale pink silk colour. It gets a second dose of romance with the lace finish that covers the inner pink silk. The pale pink lace is hand made. There is a floral design that has been worked through the lace and the each cluster of flowers are outlined with a fine silver metallic cording. On the inside of each flower there is a second detailing that uses a metallic pink silk cording. The hours to do this would have been staggering. Every stitch is done by hand and the work is meticulous. The cut of the dress gives is a regal feel. The neckline is scooped and the bodice cut to skim over you with just a suggestion of the waist above the seam that sits at the top of the hips. Under that the skirt is structured into two curving panels at the front. These cross over each other and the edges are curved so that when you walk you see a glimpse of leg. Two big soft pleats sit just below either hip and these add volume and lift. At the back the skirt curves around you and you see a repeat of the two pleats for volume. The centre of the skirt at the back has been split and a pale pink silk inset added. This panel of silk is pleated so that it expands and opens into an extensive train. A decorative row of hand made silk buttons run up each sleeve and then a series of them run down the back. This would be an amazing choice for a bride who does not want a traditional wedding dress or as part of a wedding event. Presents as excellent condition with notes to review below about the interior and panel hem.

The dress is fully hand lined in hand set pink silk and closes with a back hand set zipper behind the buttons. There is a hooked inner waist stay. Hand set snaps close the train over the inner zipper.  Each cuff zips to close behind the decorative buttons. Finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely made by hand. The proper Haute Couture label is present. The pleats have softened and the dress shows grubbiness and marks under and along the back hem and train. There is discolouration under the arms of the inner lining and one teeny spot where this shows through along the edge of the seam. Please see the photos after the label shot. My client had the side seams let out slightly by Madame Paulette's in NYC. 

Sleeves: 24"
Shoulders: 15.25"
Bust: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 19.5" from top of bodice to dropped waist
Skirt: approx 26" from waist to shortest part where the front curves meet. It curves to 42" at the sides and drops to 49" at the longest part of the lace covered skirt at the back. The silk pleated train extends to 61" from the dropped waist

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3080

Reference Photo: F/W 1994 Nina Ricci Haute Couture

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The twin of this dress walked the 1997 runway. It looked amazing on the runway that season and I am so pleased to have this one in the shop. Finding runway references for Mugler's work is not always easy as he would often change designs for production and produced many pieces that were not shown on the runway. It's an extraordinary find and a gorgeous dress.

I love the sharp fitted lines of the dress and how the lingerie feeling ruffles on the bodice give the dress an almost scandalous feel. This is classic Mugler and the ruffles gives the dress that overt sensuality that he so often worked into his creations. The dress is made out of a black jersey that is a touch thicker then normal so really molds and accentuates your curves. It is then seamed to further create that fitted shape that you see. The seams are all set into curving lines that curve down the body to create an hourglass shape. The seams also help to give the dress structure, shape and support. The waist nips in and the hips curve out following the lines of the body. Pockets are set to curve around each hip, which is a brilliant way to give the hips more shape. The skirt is cut above the knee and curves in slightly at the hem for a more fitted silhouette. The bust is spectacular. It is seamed and molded like a bra cup and then little ruffles in an ivory silk are applied to the edge at the front. The tops of the ruffle is jagged and finished with an embroidered edging. So you are completely covered but at the same time it has that French maid, lingerie feel to it. You only have to look at the runway photos included to know how wonderful this one is. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a black silk and closes with a back zipper. Tagged a vintage Mugler 38. The cups will probably fit up to a small B

Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 34" from top of straps to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3518

Reference Photos: Spring 1997 Couture Thierry Mugler Runway Collection, Look 15.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Many people do not know that Emanuel Ungaro took a position with Balenciaga in 1958 and in 1960 he became the chief designer of the house, staying there until 1964 before he briefly went on to Courreges before opening his own couture atelier in 1965. The Ungaro label has fallen from its former glory of the sixties through to the eighties, but in its heyday, the label was a force in the world of Haute Couture.

This dress is a wonderful example of the range that Ungaro had. He had a brilliant way of using of print and colour that he combined with soft fluid tailoring. This gorgeous little day dress is simple in cut but it is gorgeous once on an actual body. These little day dresses are often underrated when it comes to Haute Couture but they should not be. They are beautifully made and the quality is beyond anything you will find in modern RTW. The dress is made out of a fine high end silk that has a lattice and floral print covering its surface. Pastel peaches and taupes cover a white backdrop for a pretty and refined feel. I love the very full balloon cut sleeves. Each billows out above the cuffed wrists and takes the dress a step up from the classic day dress. The neckline is high and yoked across the shoulders with soft gathers. It skims over the bust and then a silk tie runs around and through the waist. This allows you to wear the dress with a loose and easy shift dress feel or you can cinch it in for added shape. The skirt has two little slant pockets that sit on each hip. The fabric is very light in weight and backed in a fine silk. It is made by hand to Haute Couture standards and is even better in person and on an actual body. Excellent condition with one small note below

Fully lined in a hand set silk of very high quality. It closes with a hand set, painted metal zipper and hook and eye at the back. Each cuff has a fine hand set zipper and hook & eye. The belt is partially attached and snaps into place to close. There is a small amount of shattering under each arm of the inner lining. It appears to be stable and does not affect the exterior. Please see the shot after the label shot. Done by hand to Haute Couture standards. Proper Haute Couture label present and the tape is numbered under label #H205-5-74

Sleeves: 25" approx.
Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 14.5" from shoulder to waist
Skirt: 28" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item#DD2522

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This exquisite Christian Dior Couture dress was designed during Yves Saint Laurent tenure at the house. It is from the Fall 1959 collection and comes to me from the grand daughter of the woman who owned it. Prior to her passing she had donated many of her things to one of the major museums in the US but had held this one back. Which to us feels like this one meant something a little extra special to her. This is a couture piece that would have been ordered through I. Magnin's couture salon, made to her measurements at the Dior ateliers and then sent to the US. The theme of the 1959 collection was the 'new woman' to hail in the advent of the new decade. Audrey Hepburn famously sat in the front row of the show. Yves mentioned the skirts in the collection specifically saying 'The secret of my silhouette is on the skirt and the way it is worked'. Many of the evening pieces had this high low cut skirt in several variations so that you get a glimpse of the leg. Vogue said at the time that it was 'the most French collection in Paris'. This dress is a variation on the highly documented strapless version of it that was presented in the show. The model name of the dress is 'Labia' which is scandalous in itself. The dress was photoed on China Machado, appears in the Dior coffee table book published by Assouline. House muse Victoire wore it for Vogue that September. We even found one of the original sketches of the dress and the dress was a part of the 2015 exhibit at the Bowes Museum. The exhibit, Yves Saint Laurent: Style is Eternal, was done in collaboration with the Fondation Pierre Bergé and was the first exhibition in the UK to present a comprehensive display of the French fashion designer's work and life. This version has the identical cut to the strapless one but my client's grandmother ordered hers with the amazing poufed silk taffeta sleeves that set to sit off the shoulder. 

The dress is extraordinary and is a testament to master techniques used in couture construction. It is made out of a black silk taffeta that is feather light yet holds and retains the intended shape. The bodice is fitted and comes up slightly at the front in a soft curving line. Inside the the bodice the work that creates its foundation is exquisite. There is a full boned inner bodice that wraps around the wearer and holds the dress in place. This inner corset hooks into place and then the exterior dress zips over this. The sleeves are attached along the side and each is a work of art on its own. There is hidden netting placed between the layers of the silk that hold the sleeves up and off the body and give them the incredible volume that you see. The sleeves are the only detail that differs from the runway model and I love them. I think they are an extremely clever addition to the dress and add even more drama and balance the skirts better then it is without. I love the gathered silk at the top of each sleeve that add that little extra detail at the top of each shoulder. They are cut to leave the shoulder exposed and bare. The skirt is set to feel full at the front and there is an exaggerated, almost empire feel there with multiple soft gathers that bring the fabric in towards the waist and create the fullness that you see. The skirt is cut to fall shorter at the front and then curves around and down to trail out behind you. The bottom edge is finished with a handmade French Chantilly lace. Under the skirt are multiple layers of silk tulle that are also finished with that same chantilly lace edging. These fall in just slightly different lengths around you and add both volume and also fill the inner space under the skirt. The silk taffeta is so light that when you walk the skirt has a billowing effect behind you that it just magical. Around the waist is a wide flat bow that cinches you in and adds a pretty touch of romance. The matching shawl is long and rectangular in shape with three sides of it edged in the same wide panels of Chantilly lace. All of the work on it is to Haute Couture standards down to the hand finished inner seams. This is truly a once in a life time dress and one of the most well documented pieces of Yves time at Dior. It is extraordinary to have the connection to both China Machado and Victoire Doutreleau along with all of the other documentation on it. Excellent condition  

The dress is made to couture standards. The bodice is interlined with a combination of muslin and silk and then there is a full boned and lingerie net corset attached. The corset closes with a series of lingerie hooks and the dress zippers to close over that. Each sleeve has netting between the exterior and the lining. The belt is partially attached and hooks and snaps into place. The inner skirts are made from multiple layers of a netting silk tulle edged with hand made French Chantilly lace. Hand finished inner seams. Appropriate numbered couture label for a couture piece ordered through I Magnin for this time period. I see one small repair to the silk net in one of the inner skirts but otherwise looks to have never been worn or worn very little. There is a panel on either side of the hooks that looks to be a later addition to expand the size of the dress. There is some machine working one side of where the sleeves attach. The family always remembers the sleeves being on the dress that may be a later reinforcement. All the work is otherwise done by hand to Haute Couture standards. Sourced from the grand daughter of the original couture client 

Bust: 17-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13-14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 8" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 31" from waist to shortness point on the front hem, 58" to the longest point at the back hem
Shawl: 21" x 86" including the lace edging

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3638

Reference Photos: (1) China Machado wearing the Labia dress, photographed by Richard Avedon, August 1959.  /  (2) Previous photo as seen in the book "Dior: Yves Saint Laurent. 1958-1960." by Assouline.  /  (3) Victoire in paper-thin silk taffeta gown with raised hem in front with deep lace ruffles and lace stole by Yves Saint Laurent for Dior, photographed by Irving Penn, Vogue, September 15, 1959.  /  (4) Christian Dior, 1959.  /  (5) Bergdorf Goodman Custom Salon sketch of a House of Dior black evening gown, Christian Dior, Inc., 1959, from the FIT Collections.  /  (6) Christian Dior A/W 1959 Labia gown, Bowes museum 'Style is Eternal' exhibition.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Paco Rabanne was a Spanish designer who became known as "l'enfant terrible (unruly child) of the 1960s French fashion world. He began making jewellery in unusual materials for many of the French couturiers and in 1964 at the age of 30 presented his first collection. In 1966 he had his breakout show: 'Twelve Unwearable Dresses in Contemporary Materials.' and it was with this show that he found his calling. He was quoted as saying 'sewing is a bondage,' and made his dresses out of paper, plastic and metal, which were pieced together with wire and glue. By 1968 some of the most famous women in the world were wearing his pieces and along with André Courrèges and Pierre Cardin, he helped to create the 1960s Space Age movement. Dating his pieces can be incredibly difficult but I did find a 1967 photo of Actress Noele Noblecourt wearing a dress that used strips of mirrors and a similar bead technique where they linked. Based on the information given to me by my client I believe that this dress was made in and around this time period. 

The dress is absolutely incredible. The main part of the dress is made up of mirrored triangles. These are hand linked together one by one to create the shape and form that you see. The work and hours that would have went into pre-planning thee shape and figuring out how to lay out the pieces, drilling each hole and linking them together, is mind boggling. As you look closer you realize that the dress is made out of grouping of the triangles and that there is a pattern within the pattern. Each of these shaped sections are made from six triangles that have been linked together. At the centre where they all meet there is a huge crystal tear drop that has been suspended from a metal loop. He then took one of the triangles within each these six triangle clusters and wrapped a length of clear faceted beads over it. The beads have been twisted and curved over the top of that single triangle so gives the dress an even greater 3D feel that is already has. You can see on the back of the triangles that that beadwork was added with silver wire that was hand wrapped around its triangle to secure it into place. The six triangle cluster were then all linked together to form the shape of the dress that you see. To create the shoulder straps he used a linked metal chain set with large glass rhinestones. Each one is prong set within its own casement and then these are linked together by wire. The rhinestone straps are set so that they lie across the top of the front bodice, curve over the shoulders and then lie across the back. The dress skims over the body and ends in an ultra short mini length that shows miles of legs. At the back it closes with Rabanne's signature metal clips that are set to organically down the back, hidden between the triangle clusters, so that there is no apparent line down the back to break the eye. The dress comes with a matching bag that is made out of the exact same technique and has a matching rhinestone chain as its strap. Both piece are very heavy. The dress and bag combined weigh just over ten pounds. The way that this dress catches the light and the soft sound it makes when you move is extraordinary. With your slightest movement the tears drop beads move and the mirrors reflect the light. Most examples from this time period are a monochromatic silver chainmail and it is unusual and rare to find such an ornate example like this, never mind one that still has its matching bag. It is incredible and easily one of the best pieces I have ever seen in all my years doing vintage. Early examples of Rabanne's work are held mainly in museums around the globe and really ornate pieces like this rarely come to market. It is exceptional and appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition

Slips on to wear with metal clamping hinge hooks at the back. The linked together pieces give it an almost bias cut feel as far as the way it sits on the body. It is in incredible condition and appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Completely assembled by hand

Dress
Bust: approx 15-16.5" flat across from side to side
Waist: approx to 15" flat across from side to side
Hip: approx 16-18" flat across from side to side
Length: 31" from shoulder to hem

Bag
6"H x 9"W and linked flat together, It expands out because of the links. The rhinestone strap adds another 6.5" to the height of the bag

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-SML

Item# DD3630

Reference Photo: Noele Noblecourt in Paco Rabanne, February 1967.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is an incredible dress that would be from when Marc Bohan was head of the Dior atelier before he retired in 1989. It is a beautiful example of the work being produced by Christian Dior in this time period. In the book Dior; Catwalk, the notes on the fall collection state that the collection was placed 'under the sign of opposites' and that he had looked to the work of Abstract Expressionist painter Jackson Pollock for inspiration. Pieces were adorned in drip embroidery and motifs and then he did a series of long sheath dresses that were 'accessorized with 'Pollock jewels" in jet and multi colour stones'. In the book there is a photo of a long velvet dress with a jacket over it and I wonder if that is a glimpse of the back of the twin of this one. This may have been one of the simple 'sheath like pieces' that were shown with jewels rather then the embroidery you see on the other dresses in the photo. The dress is a true Haute Couture piece and has the appropriate numbered label intact.

The dress is made out of a soft textured silk velvet in a jet black. Using a velvet that has this added texture to it is an incredible choice as the dress catches the light in different ways as you move and it really makes it come to life. The cut is simple and sleek with a low front neckline that dips from an angle created over each shoulder. It slightly curves down to the centre and then the fabric is softly gathered down the centre to the waist. This leaves it with a  slightly bloused over feel over the the nipped in waist. The sleeves are cut long and they slim down as they reach the wrists. There is a slight volume built in at the outer part of each shoulder. On the inside I see hand made silk cases that at one time had light padding in them but the padding has been removed at some point to give it a softer shape. You could easily have some padding put back in if you wanted a stronger shoulder.  Inside the bodice is a more fitted and boned inner silk corseted piece that holds you in place while the silk velvet simply drapes softly over that outside. The skirt is cut to feel sleek and simple and falls to the floor with just a touch of gentle widening as it reaches the hem. A vent runs up the back so that you can walk. It is a beautiful and dramatic piece despite its simple lines. It is meant to be slightly more voluminous through the top and then slimmer through the skirt as was the fashion at the time. Excellent condition with a very minor note below.

Fully interlined in a fine black silk satin and then has a built in bodice made of black silk. The inner bodice is boned and closes with its own zipper as photoed. The exterior dress closes with a back painted metal zipper. Each sleeve has a zipper at the cuff. Appropriate numbered tag present with couture number 19469. Silk hand made pads that have no padding inside each shoulder as described above. Slight damage to the silk on either side of the zipper on the inner corset. Please see the photo after the label shot. 

Sleeves: 23"
Soft shoulders: to 16.5"
Inner bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam with room for up to a B cup
Inner waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 13.5" from shoulder to waist
Length: 45" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3611

Reference Photo: F/W 1984 Christian Dior Couture Runway Collection as shown in the book 'Dior; Catwalk'.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Jean Paul Gaultier's career spans decades. His first show was in 1976 and his avant garde designs quickly gained him the reputation of being fashion's 'l'enfant terrible'. His designs mixed cultures with abandon, gender norms were blurred through his pieces and the body was presented encased in ways unimaginable prior to his brilliant vision. In 1997 he entered the sanctified world of Haute Couture and for just over two decades produced stunning work cumulating with his final show for Spring 2020. His pieces of couture rarely come to market and I am very pleased to have this dress that is very well documented and instantly recognizeable. This is the twin of the dress shown for the Fall 2000 Haute Couture presentation entitled 'Paris and its Muses'. I have included the original runway photos for reference here for you. The dress was also photoed for Vanity fair on Doutzen Kroes. Fast forward to 2013 where the twin of this dress was featured in the The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk exhibit. I actually attended the opening of that show in San Francisco and it is surreal to now have the actual dress in hand as I remember swooning over it on display. This dress was obviously a favourite of Jean Paul's because he chose to recreate a version of it for his Fall 2018 Couture collection. That 2018 version was then worn by Rita Ora for the 2018 MTV VMAs. This may have been the only original piece ever produced beyond the piece that was shown in the exhibition. 

The dress is an incredible work of art. It is made from a layer of silk netting that falls over an interior nude coloured lingerie weight stretch silk. This makes it very easy to wear and be comfortable in despite the dramatic feel it has to everyone seeing it. Onto the silk netting at hand made and hand applied tubes of silk with a stiffened netting inside that gives them the 3D dimension that you see. The entire dress would have had to have been careful planned out prior to its creation. Every single word that you see running over its surface would have had to have been laid out and planned for how it would be placed onto the dress before it was even started. Each word would have had to have been figured out as to the degree it would curve over the body and then it would have been all meticulously brought to life. The letters cover the dress from head to toe and the closer you look the more you see the French words 'Cherie',  'Mon Amour', 'Jean Paul Gaultier', 'Paris' and more as the hand written script cascade and curves it way down the length of the dress. It falls from the shoulders in a long swoop that widens out as it nears the hem. I love how the hem is curved and swooped to follow the final words across the bottom. The script and the netting inside the words also helps to keep the shape of the dress that you see in my photos as they act as structure and support. In a way like a crinoline but attached on the outside rather then worn underneath and hidden. The top is sleeveless and the straps are just wide enough to accommodate the lettering that runs over them. The front scoops down and the back dips into a V. The waist is easy and then it flares out dramatically to the hem. It is bias cut so should fit a range of sizes. Inside you can see how all of the seams are finished with proper couture techniques. This is a dress that would have taken hundreds of hours to complete and is literally like wearing an art piece come to life. To have a piece available for purchase is almost as rare as being able to have bought it as a couture client in the first place. Truly one of the most magnificent pieces he has ever created. Excellent condition with some very minor notes below 

Composed of two layers, the inner nude lingerie weight stretch silk and then the netted layer over that. The inner layer closes with a zipper and the outer layer snaps to close with a tightly spaced series of tiny snaps.  The dress looks to have been worn very little if at all. There is some minor stress to the netting around the seam of the armholes. I see a couple of the ends of a word that have popped through the silk a bit and some small tiny snags to the netting here and there. All of these are very minor. Please see the photos after the Couture label. All the work is done by hand to Haute Couture standards. Proper Couture tag present. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Sourced from the original couture client  

Bust: 15-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15 " flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 62" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3612

Reference Photos: (1-2) Fall 2000 Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Runway Collection.  /  (3) Doutzen Kroes in Jean Paul Gaultier couture from the 2000 collection for Vanity Fair, 2009.  /  (4-8) Jean Paul Gaultier exhibition at the Grand Palais, 2015.  /  (9) Fall 2018 Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Runway Collection. Look 34.  /  (10-12) Rita Ora in Jean Paul Gaultier at the 2018 MTV VMAs.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I already had the documentation on this dress because I sold an unlabeled brown coloured version of it in the past. This one however, seems to be the near twin of the one that I have a reference photo of and have included here. It is an interesting piece because of the documentation and it also has an interesting design in the way that it wraps and closes. The dress is not perfect. The dye has faded substantially on parts of it. It may be possible to re-dye it but my client did not want to do that now in case it is important to a collector to have it stay as original as possible. It is an amazing example of his early couture work.

Regardless of its imperfections, the dress is amazing and the pink is an instant eye catcher. The inner dress is a long, sleek sleeveless sheath. Over this sits is an overlay that is made up of a long wide panel of the same silk as the inner dress. This overlay drapes down the front and then again down the back in a long stark column. The front overlay has straps that extend out from each side and these wrap and hook to close between the inner sheath dress and the back overlay. Down the front there is an extensive beaded design. The neckline is wrapped in curving bands of silver toned beads that circle the neck like a bib. Below that three huge diamond shaped medallions run down the front with the top one being the largest and the bottom and middle slightly smaller then the one above. In the centre of each beaded diamond are a mix of deep pink and paler pink prong set crystal rhinestone surrounded by pearls. The silver needs have been sewn into place using a matching pink thread to the silk of the dress and this gives them a slight pink tone. It's genius. That elaborate front is like wearing a jewelled bib and it is extraordinary. All of the work on the dress has been done by hand and to couture standards. The dress is wearable and sound outside of is obvious discolourations. 

Fully lined in a pink silk with hand finishes throughout. The dress closes at the back with a hidden set metal zipper. The wrap around straps hook to close at the back and there is a series of hook & eye across the top of one shoulder. There appear to be some repairs to the beading near the neck and a small area of shattering to the silk on the inside back neck. The silk has faded in areas throughout. Please see the photos provided to get a good sense of the parts that have lightened. Sold as found and final sale. All hand done and made to Haute Couture standards. 

Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 54.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD2577

Reference Photos: Model in Pierre Cardin, 1969, credit unknown.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This dress comes directly from the original couture client and is an exceptional example of Valentino's Haute Couture work that he was doing during the 1980s. Finding pieces from this time period is a rarity and I am very pleased to have this beautiful dress in the shop. I am also pleased to have found several documentations of the dress from that season. The dress is featured in the book "A Grand Italian Epic: Valentino Garavani" by Taschen, which is considered to be one of the definitive volumes on Valentino's work. It was also featured in the March issue of Italian Vogue. That layout was photoed by Steven Klein and the dress was modeled by Monica Gripman. It was also shot on model Brynja Sverris for one of the Valentino campaigns that year. This is one of his most recognizable dresses that he has ever created and you instantly recognize it as being by him the second that you see it. It is an extraordinary and historically important piece of Valentino's couture work. This would also make an exception bridal dress for the non traditional bride or as a secondary dress to change into.

This dress is extraordinary. The lines of it are pure poetry. The front of the dress has been done with a minimalist feel and its entire design is deliberate to give you just a glimpse of what will happen when you turn around. The top overlay is made of a black silk faille and the neckline is high and slightly scooped. It curves and skims over the bust and nips in gently at the waist. The shape that you see is all done with beautiful curving vertical seams so that there is no line to break the sweep of the eye. This then extends into a long panel that lays over the inner skirting. It is cut on one side with more of a curved line, while the other side is set on a slight straigher line that runs up to the the detailing at the back. This slight asymmetrical cut is fascinating and it is done so subtly that at first your eye does not see it. Instead you only see how this allows the underskirt to sweep out slightly more on one side then the other. From under that the skirt flares out and back in a tremendous sweep of fabric. The underskirt is also made out of a heavy silk faille in a creamy ivory with black dots. Many yards of silk have been used its construction and it designed to have massive volume at the back. From every angle of the dress you get these wondrous sweeping views. At the back the black silk is cut into a V and set slightly to one side. Where each side of the front overlay meet, there is a huge ivory silk flower. The lines that lead up and towards the flower are all curving perfection and the way that the black sweeps up to meet the flower is a moment in itself. The flower is huge and sits nestled in the crook of your low back. The interior of the dress is made to couture standards and is as stunning as the exterior. There are attached inner tulles that give the skirt its shape and volume. It is one of the most beautiful dresses I have seen. It is an amazing example of his earlier Haute Couture work. Excellent condition with a couple of minor notes below. 

The dress is lined in a black silk and there are attached underskirts in silk tulle. It closes with an inner zipper that is attached to the underskirt with a second exterior zipper over that. Inner waist stay hooks to close. The panel where the flower is set snaps into place with hand covered silk covered snaps. I see some grubbiness at the hem and on the flower and a repair to one of the tulle underskirts at the back. Near the base of the inner zipper the fabric has come away from the seam. All of these are minor. Please review the photos provided after the label shot. Finished with Haute Couture construction techniques throughout. 

Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 58" from top of shoulder to front hem, 68" to the longest point of the back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3604

Reference Photos: (1) Brynja Sverris in S/S 1988 Valentino Haute Couture by Gianpaolo Barbieri.  /  (2-3) Monica Gripman in Valentino Haute Couture for Vogue Italia, March 1988. Photos by Steven Klein.  /  (4-5) S/S 1988 Valentino Haute Couture Dress as shown in the book "A Grand Italian Epic: Valentino Garavani" by Taschen.  /  (6-7) Queen Sofia of Spain in Valentino, meeting Queen Elizabeth, at the Palacio Real de Madrid, in Madrid, for a state banquet in Spain, 18 October 1988.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Christian Lacroix launched his Haute Couture house in 1987 and his work was instantly revered world wide. He defined an era and he was crowned the King of Couture. A ready-to-wear line soon followed along with perfumes and menswear. His collections were always exotic and lavish affairs. He drew his inspirations from across the decades and I doubt there was ever a more high glamour couturier. This dress is very special and a stunning example of his work during this time period. It has all the signature Lacroix drama that you could ask for. It comes to me from the original couture client. The twin of this piece walked the runway that season. My client ordered hers in a slightly different shade of silk taffeta and the atelier changed the colour of the stone in the jewelled brooches to match this fabric selection. His couture pieces rarely come to market and this is an exception example of his work. 

The dress is beautiful. It is made out of an iridescent silk taffeta that changes colour slightly depending on how the light hits it. It can go from a deep bronze colour to an iridescent blue tone. Each sleeve is long and slim and cut to end just above the wrist. A row of five silk covered buttons runs up each wrist with working silk loops. The body of the dress is cut into a simple sheath and then it has been gathered up along one side and secured in place with that incredible huge brooch. The brooch is a gold metal circle that has large golden topaz glass crystals mixed with brilliant blue glass stones. The neckline folds over in a curve of fabric and is set very wide across the shoulders, angling down to leave one shoulder bare. The back is tremendously beautiful. That wide neckline from the front dips and angles down at the back to leave a large part of your back exposed. I love how the silk takes on a draped and wrapped effect as it is brought down to the point where the bare expanse of skin ends. Another huge jewelled brooch has then been pinned in place there to anchor the draping. Below that a stiffened panel of silk flares out dramatically to one side in a half bow effect. I have included some shots of the clever way the dress and back close and you can see the meticulous work that has been put into the piece to ensure it drapes perfectly. Excellent condition with a couple of small notes below

Fully lined in a black silk organza and closes with an elaborate mix of a zipper, snaps and hooks at the back. One flaring panel loops through the other. It is in wonderful condition with a few small things to note from normal wear. There is rubber ribboning along the neckline to hold it in place and this has changed colour here and there. There is one stone missing at the bottom of the front brooch. The brooches are removable and you can see little marks on the fabric under them where the pin has been pushed through in different places. There are a couple teeny pinhead marks on the fabric where the brooches have caught on the silk near the brooches. Very minor. It is really in stunning condition. Unlabeled and sourced from the original couture client

Sleeves: 19.5"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 36" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3602

Reference Photo: Fall/Winter 1990 Christian Lacroix Haute Couture Runway.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This dress comes directly from the original couture client and is an exceptional example of Laurent's Haute Couture work that he was doing during this time period. Finding pieces from this time period in such wonderful condition is a rarity and I am very pleased to have this beautiful dress in the shop. I did extensive research on this one and though I found some similar references from a couple of collections that dated to the same time period that my client's mother as shopping at, I was unable to find any photo of this exact dress. There was a similar lace used in both the Fall 1885 and Fall 1986 collections (which historically was a bit avant garge for the time period as lace had not been seen in couture for some time at that point). Similar colour combination were seen in the Fall of 1989 and for the Fall of 1991. The 1991 collection also features a couple of laces that were similar and that clue, combined with the colour usual for that collection and the number on the label makes me feel that it is most likely dates to 1991. This is also in line with the years that she was actively buying couture. She was a good enough client that there is a high possibility that this was a one-off that was made just for her and is the only one like it made. It is very beautiful and made more towards his aesthetic where he made the dresses to be very tailored and structure as opposed to his opposite side when he did pieces that were more along a drape and flow construction. This is a a dress that truly needs an actual body in to to come to life. It is extraordinary 

The bodice of the dress is highly structured and the choice of silk taffeta allows Yves to mold and shape the sleeves and bodice like sculpture. It is cut to be worn completely off the shoulder so that you get that full bare expanse of skin. A wide band of a deep fuchsia pink silk taffeta, that has a touch of a purple undertone to it, runs across the top of the bodice and then extends down to form each sleeve. He has manipulated and gathered the fabric into folds along the entire length of each arm. The remainder of the bodice is also constructed from a silk taffeta but this time in deep burnt copper that has a touch of a metallic glow to its finish. This too is gathered along each side so that there are soft pleats that lay across and around you. I love how the eye gathers feel cohesive from the body to the arms but the colour gives contrast and the gathers are set slightly different so that you have a slight change in how the texture feels. The skirt comes out from the waist and is a very formal feeling skirt that is attached into the waist with soft pleats that open up to allow it to be quite wide by the time it reaches the hem. The underskirt part is a beautiful rich purple. The purple silk is then covered in a layer of black French lace that has a stunning floral design set within medallions. These run over the lace and are repeated throughout to create the beautiful pattern that you see. I love that the bottom edge of the lace follows the curving shape of the design that is in the lace. His finishing touch is done with a wide silk ribbon in a bright green that wraps and ties around the waist. I love this unusual colour combination. You could also easily wear it without the sash or change it for a more structure belt to add more shape. It is very elegant and yet the bare shoulders add a touch of sexiness. I very much love this side of his work where he works within a strong, shaped silhouette and then created a gown to his exact intentions. Excellent condition 

Fully lined through the bodice in a fine black silk satin. There is a built in silk covered elastic that is attached and wired right between the breast for a slight bit of support and then wraps around you and hooks to close. It closes with a side set zipper and has an inner waist stay that hooks to close. There is a series of snaps above the zipper that run under the arm seam so it opens enough to get into it. Each sleeve zips to close at the wrist. The exterior layer of the skirt closes with its own a hand set side zipper. The silk ribbon belt is tacked into place on either side of the waist. On the interior of the skirt at the inner waist the fabric has been folded down and it looks like it would be possible to lengthen the skirt from there by just about 4" but the side skirt zipper would need to be reset if you did that. There is perhaps a touch of dusting on the fabric on the folds under each arm. So minor I am just being crazy picky because it is couture. Done with Haute Couture construction techniques.

Sleeves: 20" from where they start off the shoulder 
Bust: to 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 54" from top of bodice to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3598

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is a gorgeous Valentino Haute Couture dress from the early to mid 1980s. It is beautifully made and a wonderful example of Valentino's Haute Couture work that he was doing during this time period. I love this backless version with its low front plunge. It is a little sexier then some of his couture work tends so be but it still has that refined elegance that you would expect from him combined with a bit of pure drama created in that moment when you first turn around and see that bare expanse of skin. 

This dress is wonderful. In person it is even better then how it photoed because like all couture it really needs to be on an actual body to come to life and sit properly. The cut has been kept fairly simply but is still sexy with its plunging halter bodice and long skirt that falls to the floor from under the banded waist. The dress is made from a lightweight bias cut silk in a deep charcoal black-grey colour. Onto the silk is a graphic floral leaf design in a deep ivory that covers the entire dress. The bodice is cut into a halter style with wide straps that curve up and behind the neck to leave the shoulders bare. The two panels of the front cross over themselves and dip into a V at the front. It then curves around waist at the lower back and this leaves the back completely bare. The waist is defined by a wide panel of black silk that is gathered and shirred. The ends of this banding extend into very long ties that you can wrap and tie or simply loop at the side and leave to hang long as I have down for the photos. Under that the skirt flows to the floor and gradually widens out just a touch as it nears the hem. The inner conduction is all down to Haute Couture standards and is interlined in a silk chiffon so that they dress stays wonderfully light but still very well constructed. It is a beautiful example of his earlier haute Couture work. Excellent condition with one minor note below

Fully interlined in a black silk chiffon and closes with a low set zipper at the side below the waist and then silk covered snaps and hooks above that. The hem looks to have been taken up at some point. Hand finishes throughout. Done with Haute Couture construction techniques. Inner waist stay hooks to close.

Bust: to 18.5" flat across the back side seam to side seam with generous fabric at the front
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 16" from top of neck to top seam of the band at waist
Skirt: 44.5" from waist to hem with 2.25" turn up under the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD3593

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This dress comes directly from the original couture client and is in immaculate condition. This is an exceptional example of Valentino's Haute Couture work that he was doing during the 1980s. It is one of a group of dotted red chiffon dresses that Valentino showed on the runway that season. Finding pieces from this time period in such immaculate condition is a rarity and I am very pleased to have this beautiful dress in the shop. I am also pleased to have found runway footage of the group of dresses that he did. The twin of this one was a runway piece and you just get the tiniest glimpse of it on the video I have added here. I have also included a gorgeous shot of Daniela Ghione wearing the dress that year. Style icon Nan Kempner was photoed wearing a different version of the dress which gives you another idea of how fantastic the dress will be on. It is an extraordinary and historically important piece of Valentino's couture work

This dress is divine. The lines of it are beautiful and as good as it looks on the dress form it is perfection on an actual body. The bodice of the dress is fitted and nipped in at the waist. It is cut in a sweetheart neckline that softly curves at the top and is strapless. The bodice is done in an extremely intricate manner. Panels of the silk chiffon have been cut on the biased and then shirred and diagonally crossed over each other to form that complicated pattern that wraps around the entire bodice. The little striped illusion effect that you see in each curving panel is actually the white dot in the silk hat has been meticulously lined up to precision with the one above and below. This painstaking pleating and gathering technique would have taken hours and hours to accomplish. This then forms a shaped bodice that runs down past the waist and molds over the top of the hips. From under that the skirt flares out to the floor and is made up of many yards of the same bias cut red and white dotted silk chiffon. The fabric is feather light so that your slightest movement cause the silk to flow around you. On one hip there are panels of silk that are set to run down that full side to give it an extra burst of volume and movement. The interior of the dress is made to couture standards with a full built in cupped corset that is boned and shaped to just past the waist. From under the bodice the skirt is made up of three full layers of silk; two of the dotted silk and a red silk inner layer. It is one of the most beautiful dresses I have seen and looks to have been worn very little if at all. It is an amazing example of his earlier Haute Couture work. Excellent condition. 

The bodice has a full built in boned corset made that hooks into place. The dress zippers to close over that. The skirt is made up of three layers as descried above. Done with Haute Couture construction techniques. Inner waist stay hooks to close.

Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 52" from top of bodice to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3588

Reference Photos: (1) Daniela Ghione in Valentino Haute Couture Spring/Summer 1986. Photo by Oliviero Toscani.  /  (2) Valentino Haute Couture SS 1986. Photo by Lord Snowdon.  /  (3) Model in Valentino Haute Couture, Vogue Italia, March 1986. Photo by Albert Watson.  /  (4-5) Nan Kempner at Barbara Walters's Four Month Wedding Anniversary Celebration at The Pierre Hotel in New York, September 1986.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

At the age of 31, Stephane Rolland took over as Artistic Director for the Jean Louis Scherrer Haute Couture atelier, making him the youngest of the 20 official couturiers at the time. That was in 1997 and he remained as the head of the Couture division until the last showing in 2005 when the house officials shuttered is couture business altogether. This dress is from the Fall 2001 Haute Couture presentation and it is the actual runway sample that was worn on the runway. It was Look 7 In the presentation that day. I have included several runway reference photos for you so that you can see just how spectacular the dress is once on an actual body. 

Any Haute Couture piece to come into the shop is a reason to celebrate but to have the actual runway sample is even that much more amazing. The dress is a work of art and is entirely made by hand to Haute Couture standards with the added touch of all those last minute adjustments done to perfectly fit the model to walk the runway that day. This is an amazing opportunity to see what few see; a dress straight from the atelier, overseen and fitted by the couturier himself for its debut on the runway. The entire dress is made from multiple panels of a red silk gazaar that are hand set to overlap themselves as they cascade down the length of the dress. The panels gradually become larger is they run downwards over the dress to the train at the back. They cover the entire dress from the strapless bodice to the very end of the train. By layering the panels the dress has a sense of depth and texture then even the photos can truly convey. Each panel is secured to the base fabric just along its edges so that there is a movement and lightness created when it is on and you move about. The inner part of the dress is cut to above the knee so that you get a long flash of leg at the front. The rest of the dress flows back and around you from there. At the back the train is very long and dramatic. The bodice is strapless and here the panels are set so that they form a peak upwards on one side. The interior is corseted and structured so that it firmly holds the dress onto the body and gives you shape. This is an incredible piece of modern Haute Couture and would have been priced well into six figures when it was originally made. Excellent condition with one small note to review below.

Fully lined in a fine red silk and closes with two zippers. One is on the interior corset and the second is on the outer layer of the dress. The interior corset is boned and shaped. The skirt is lined in a red silk taffeta. Done with Haute Couture construction techniques. The hand written runway sample tag is present. There is some deepening of the colour/ marks on some of the squares of silk that make up the train and some minor grubbiness from being worn for the runway and then stored. Nothing that detracts once the dress is on. It is close to a true zero and will zip properly in the back on the right sized person. 

Bust: 15-15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 11.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner dress length: 26" from top of bodice to hem NOT including panels that go over the edge of the dress a bit above and blow the actual inner structure
Length including train to the very longest point:  Approx 92" from top of bodice to final tip of the train

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS

Item# DD3054

Reference Photos: Fal 2001 Jean Louis Scherrer Haute Couture Runway Show.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This incredible dress is from the Fall 2000 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture collection and its twin walked the runway that season. The collection was lauded by the press. Marie Claire said 'Faithful to himself, Yves Saint Laurent has once again surpassed himself, without ever betraying the clean look that has become his signature.' The New York Times review by Cathryn Horn noted that the show was attended by ladies such as Nan Kempner who sat just a few chairs away from Catherine Deneuve and Lauren Bacall. Nan was seen in the audience saying 'fabulous' as the dresses paraded past. The Times review included remarks on all of the couture shows that season and said that the 'day belonged to Saint Laurent'. They also noted that "There have been a lot of Saint Laurent shows in recent years when nothing clicked and you thought, 'Okay, this is as good as it's going to get.' But the thing one realized the other day was how vast and deep are Mr. Saint Laurent's reserves of creativity compared with those of other, younger designers who blow themselves out early and then spend the next 10 or 15 years splashing around in the same puddle." This dress is exceptional and a rare piece from one of his final collections. That same NYT article also noted that during this time period, couture dresses had a start cost of $50,000 ($75k in modern dollars), and went up from there. This dress is sourced from the original couture client.  

The dress is exquisite and I love that you can see just how wonderful it is on the body from the runway reference photos that I have found for you. It is made from an inky black silk velvet with inset panels around the skirt. The sleeves are long and straight and the dress is cut to sit fully off the shoulders. This allows your entire upper shoulders to show. It skims over the body and the velvet lies over a fully built in inner corseting that gives support and keeps the dress perfectly in place. This inner corset is fully boned and closes with its own separate zipper. The dress skims over the body with vertical seaming all around for each panel that the dress is made up of. It is meant to sit so that your shoes show from under the skirt and this length also gives the skirt the best possible length to show off its fullness and the ingenious insets all around the skirt. Just below the hips he has inset panels that are made from knife pleated black silk netting. The are set in in such a way that each is very full. The result is that you get a stunning bit of volume through the lower skirts as these flare out around you and move when you move. They have a touch of transparency to them so you get a suggestion of leg showing as you walk. A wide silk satin ties at the waist for the perfect finish. Yves once said of the colour black "I love black because it affirms, designs, and styles. A woman in a black dress is a pencil stroke". The dress looks to have been unworn or worn very little and was sourced form the original couture client. Excellent condition  

The outer velvet layer is fully interlined in a fine black silk satin. The built in corset is boned and shaped. It closes with its own zipper and has an inner waist stay that hooks to close. The exterior layer closes with a hand set zipper. Done with Haute Couture construction techniques. The silk ribbon belt is not original to the dress. It appears to have been unworn or worn very little

Sleeves: 22"
Inner bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: approx 56" from natural shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3586

Reference Photos: Fall 2000 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This comes from the same collection of couture pieces that I am handling at the moment for my client and all she could recall for this piece was this it was her mothers, it was from Chanel and that it was from the eighties, maybe early 90s. I have not yet found a photo reference for this one but when I do I will add it or send to the new owner. The set is incredibly beautiful on the body. 

The dress is stunning. It is made up of two separate pieces. The top piece is an inky black tabard that is made out of a rich soft silk velvet. At the front it is cut in a simple sleeveless sheath that has a subtle seam just under the bodice. The back dips into a low square to show a bare expanse of skin. Inside it is lined in a hand set heavy black silk that feels amazing against the skin. It closes at the side with a zipper but only to the top of the hip. Under that it is completely open on that side. You then wear the skirt under this and the skirt acts as a bit of coverage to keep the top layer from being completely scandalous. The skirt is marvellous. It is as light as air and made of alternating squares of a very fine netting with a lace flower woven through the netting. The squares are set on their sides so they become diamonds and the lace diamonds are offset with solid black diamonds made of a fine black silk. The skirt is meant to be worn under the velvet tabard dress so that it just peaks out along the side of the dress that has that extreme slit. This still leaves your leg completely exposed underneath right to the hip so it is very sexy but in an insanely subtle and refined manner. The skirt is very light in a weight and very beautiful. I love that they did the same amount of work on it all the way around for the entire skirt even though you only see that bit down one leg when the pieces are worn together. These are the types of extravagances that you find and fall in love with in true couture. It is stunning on the body. Excellent condition 

The tabard over dress is fully lined in a black silk and the skirt is unlined. Both pieces close with side zippers and the skirt has hook & eye at the waist band. All the interior work is done by hand to Haute Couture standards. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Sourced from the original couture client 

Tabard
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 13" from top of shoulder to seam under waist
Skirt: 44.5" from waist to hem
Slit: 37" from hem up

Skirt
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 43" from waist to hem
Slit: 17.5" from hem up 

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3584

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The twin of this dress is held in the permanent archives of The Metropolitan Museum. It would not surprise me to find out that these were the only two samples of this dress in existence. True Haute Couture pieces were never produced in any significant quantities. The dress is as wearable now as it was when first made and feels very modern. It is entirely finished by hand and is from the time period when the house was run by Hubert de Givenchy himself. This is a wonderful and well documented piece showcasing Givenchy's work during this time period. I have included the dress that the MET has in the final shot here for your reference

The dress is made of a deep blue grey silk crepe. It is cut with a strong nod to the classic Grecian silhouette that leaves one shoulder exposed and bare. The construction details throughout the dress are exquisite. The bodice has been gathered by hand to create a series of soft pleats that run from the shoulder to the waist. These are set on a curving angle to follow the cut of the neckline as it works it way up towards the shoulder. The draping and soft pleat technique adds a beautiful detailing to the bodice of the dress. The waist is defined by a slim gold leather cord that wraps and ties to add shape. The skirt falls below this to the floor gently widening out a touch as it nears the hem. A second panel of fabric is draped over the skirt and set so that it angles softly down one side mirroring the angle of the shoulder. Slipping over this is a short cape that is made from the same fabric. It is cut on an angle to point down the front and the back and gives the dress a beautiful flowing feel. The colour is richer and deeper in person and on an actual body the entire dress really comes to life. Excellent condition with a few small notes below to review.

The dress is fully lined in a hand set blue silk of very high quality. There is a wide waist stay that hooks at the inner waist. It closes with a hand set, side painted metal zipper and from the waist down there are hidden set snaps that close the fabric of the skirt over the zipper. The bodice is lightly boned and there are small bust pads that are handset inside the bodice. The cape is unlined and slips over the head to wear. There are some light snags in the fabric here and there and some small areas pf darkening on the skirt overlay - the snags are most noticeably on the back of the skirt near the bottom - these are seen most when it is laid out flat but once on the color and placement make all of them negligible. Please see the two images after the label shots. All the interior work is done by hand to Haute Couture standards. Proper Couture tags on both pieces. Haute Couture tape label #55417

Dress
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder strap to waist
Skirt: 42" from waist to hem

Cape
39" from neck to longest point of hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD2767

Reference Photo: 1973 Givenchy Evening Dress from The MET Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The New York times said of this collection at the time; 'Yves Saint Laurent did it. With sophistication and authority in his collection for spring and summer, he gave validity to couture, the high end of the fashion industry. There was no desperate groping: this is the way the most expensive clothes in the world should look, he seemed to say. As the showings sailed into their final days, he re-established himself today as the king of couture." after their review of the day and suit looks they continued to say; "Preliminaries over, he was ready for evening dresses, the serious business of couture. His unerring eye for color came to the fore....One-color dresses were also effective, in fuchsia, bright blue or rose. Rarely did he resort to embroideries...His effect was achieved through line and cut." The review ended with this lovely sentiment; 'Saint Laurent knew his show was a success. "The couture lives," he whispered backstage after it was over. His mother, Lucienne Saint Laurent, told him he had never done better. He seemed to agree. It is rare for a designer to reinvent himself at the age of 56, the way Saint Laurent had just done. The show recalled his glory days in the 1970's, when he set the guidelines for couture and the rest of fashion. He has now done that for the spring of 1993." 

This particular style dress has incredible provenance. On the runway this dress was shown in a darker, more subdued blue and I have those runway shots here. The twin of the runway dress is held in the Met Museums' collection in both a red and the darker blue. The blue one in their collection was donated by Annette de la Renta and the red belonged to style icon Nan Kempner. There was another darker one produced for Catherine Deneuve who wore it to accept the Cesar award for Indochine. Such an incredible amount of history tied to the dress and it is exciting to have such a full and varied picture of who else ordered and loved the dress.

My client had the dress made in one of the brighter blues that was used elsewhere in the collection that year and I love it in this brighter bolder color. The dress is cut to leave one shoulder completely bare. Both sides have long slim sleeve and there is a panel of the same silk gathered along the top of the shoulder that then swoops down over the bodice and the back. That draped panel is very full and I love how it drapes over the sleeve on that side. The inner details here show is the genius of couture. The zipper on that side is set so that is softly curves under the arm and runs down the top of the inner sleeve. That way the person wearing the dress does not have an uncomfortable zipper pull right under their arm. It also keeps the sleeve perfectly in place despite the absence of a shoulder. The waist is seamed and detail by a matching, hand dyed silk satin slim belt. The skirt falls the the floor under that, gently widening out as it nears the hem. The side opposite to the bare shoulder has a very high slit so that you get a flash of leg as you walk. It is stunning and in person the colour is a touch richer and deeper then how it photoed. The silk also has a slight texture to it that adds detailing in person that the camera does not quite convey. This is a wonderful example of how strong his tailoring was in evening wear and an important piece fromm a collection hailed as a triumph. Excellent overall condition with a small note below

Fully lined in a fine blue silk. Done with Haute Couture construction techniques and closes with a hidden set side zipper under the arm that curves up and into the sleeve as described above. Inner waist stay hooks to close. The fabric is cut on the bias so there is some give. There is a slight fading along the top of the shoulder and down that same sleeve. Please see the two photos after the reference shot. It is light and because of the placement once on it is barely seen. The hem has been let down at some point. The belt is original to the dress and is in excellent condition 

Sleeves: 27"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 18.5" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 43" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3582

Reference Photos: (1-2) S/S 1993 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway.  /  (3-4) S/S 1993 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Dresses from The MET Online Collection.  /  (5-6) Nan Kempner in Yves Saint Laurent, May 1993.  /  (7-8) Catherine Deneuve receives the César of the best actress 1993 for her interpretation in the film of Régis Wargnier "Indochine", March 08, 1993.  /  (9) Maxime, Loulou & Lucie de la Falaise in Yves Saint Laurent.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The Nina Ricci Haute Couture house was founded in 1932, at 20 Rue de Capucines in Paris and became one of the pre-eminent couture ateliers in the world. In 1964, Gérard Pipart succeeded Jules-François Crahay, Nina Ricci's former designer assistant who took over the atelier in 1954. Over the following three decades, his Haute Couture vision "celebrated a flamboyant woman and his ready-to-wear found a loyal following among the most stylish women of the day."

This dress is a wonderful example of Pipart's vision for the house and is a stunning example of the work that the atelier was producing during this time period. The dress is made of from a fine silk chiffon that has been dyed to the perfect red. Every stitch is done by hand and the hours that would have been put just into the hand rolling and stitching of all the edges on the various layers on the skirt alone is mind-boggling. The skirt is made of four full layers of bias cut silk that is layered over each other in cascading tiers of fabric. Each layer is cut to curve up slightly at the front and dip down longer at the back. The layers of silk create a beautiful sense of movement and lightness when you move. The bodice is beautiful. It is densely beaded by hand in a pretty floral pattern all the way around from front to back. Tiny silk straps curve up and over the shoulders. Along the very top edge of the neckline at the front is an attached panel of silk chiffon that wraps up and around the neck leaving the silk to trail down the back. This little extra detail creates a bit of high drama and intrigue to the design. The scarf is original to the dress but may have been attached at a later date. It would be an easy job to unattached it and have it as a separate piece again if you wished. It is stunning in person and on the body. Excellent condition with one small note below.

Fully lined in red silk chiffon and closes with a back hand set zipper. Finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely made by hand. There are two small areas of a darkened spots on both sides of the attached silk panel. Please see the two photos after the label shot. Depending on how this is tied and styled it does not necessarily show and if was unattached again you would have the option to not wear it with the dress. The proper Haute Couture label is present.

Bust: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 16" from neck to waist
Skirt: 40" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD2369

Quote and historical info on the house is taken from the Nina Ricci Website

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is an incredible example of Karl lagerfeld's Haute Couture work. On the runway this was shown with a full wide skirt and I love that it is different because it shows you the versatility of it how you could potentially wear it with a skirt from your own closet. My client opted for a sleek tapered legged trouser instead of the skirt which I think really allows the jacket and its lines to really shine. In the book 'Chanel Catwalk' they said of this collection; 'Karl Lagerfeld focused on suits ..for this haute couture collection, presented as a winding catwalk in a riding centre in the Bois de Boulogne. It featured 'only' fifty-eight looks, 'but I could have had many more,' Lagerfeld told Women's Wear Daily, 'because we have many clients and they want suits, suits, suits.'

The lines of this suit are crisp and sharp and the tailoring is immaculate. Both pieces are made out of a silk taffeta that allows them to retain the exact lines that Lagerfeld intended. The jacket is cut so that it is fitted to the upper bodice and shoulders and then flares outwards as it glides past the hips. The collar is neat and small and I love how it is notched and shaped at the front. It zips to close under a shaped panel of fabric at the front and there are two small discreet holes that you can slide a pin, french cuffs or a very thin ribbon through to add some detailing as they did on the runway. Each sleeve is long and straight with a touch of width to it. These end in a notched slit rather then a traditional cuff which falls in line with the sleek minimalist feel of the rest of the suit. In a little hidden surprise the underside of each cuff, the inside the collar and the front panel of fabric over the zipper have all been meticulously hand lined in a pale gold metallic silk. The pants are sleek and simple in their cut. They are flat fronted and cut to taper down to the ankles. A sharp pleat has been hand sewn down the front and the back of each leg. The inside of the suit is as immaculate as the outside and it is of course, entirely made by hand. The iconic gold Chanel chain runs along the inner hem of the jacket and I suspect that it is actually gold plated. Every stitch is perfection. This is a rare opportunity to own a piece of true couture by one of the most important designers of our lifetime. Excellent condition with a minor note below. 

The jacket is lined in a black silk and closes with a hidden zipper under the front panel of fabric. The pants zip to close with a hidden set side zipper. I see a slight touch of stress to part of the front middle seam on the pant, see the photo after the label shots. Both piece are hand finished to couture standards. Proper couture labels present with couture tape 78762 under the tag on the jacket and 78763 under the pant tag. Sourced from the original couture client 

Jacket
Sleeves: 23.5"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 30" from neck to head 

Pant
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 38" from top of bodice to waist
Inseam: 28" from inner seam to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3580

Reference Photo: Spring 2000 Chanel Haute Couture Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Jean Paul Gaultier's illustrious career spans decades. His first show was in 1976 and his avant garde designs quickly gained him the reputation of being fashion's 'l'enfant terrible'. His designs mixed cultures with abandon, gender norms were blurred through his pieces and the body was presented encased in ways unimaginable prior to his brilliant vision. In 1997 he entered the sanctified world of Haute Couture and for just over two decades produced stunning work cumulating with his final show for Spring 2020. His pieces of couture rarely come to market and I am very pleased to have this unbelievably beautiful ensemble. This was look 33 for the Fall 2001 Haute Couture presentation entitled 'China and Spain'. For this season Gaultier combined elements from those two countries in a beautiful homage. Pieces from this collection were featured in the The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk exhibit of 2013 and to have a piece available for purchase is almost as rare as being able to have bought it as a couture client in the first place. After the show Gaultier said of this collection “I wanted to do something more sensual than sexy. The idea was to bring together everything that you imagine when you think of China and Spain—theater, movement, color, history and richness.” The twin of this look was worn by Alec Wek on the runway with a huge red bib neckpiece over the top. This may have been the only piece ever produced beyond the runway set. 

It is extraordinary to think that Jean Paul Gaultier has only produced a Haute Couture line for two short decades given his long career. Like most Haute Couture, this is a set that only truly comes to life when it is on an actual body. I was very pleased to have found the reference photos and video so that it shows you just how amazing it is on. The pants are a work of art. They are incredibly heavy. They have been densely beaded with glass tube beads in tightly spaced rows to cover every inch. Worked into the sequins are the brilliantly coloured flowers that you see. These are all hand embroidered and trail over the pant legs, wrapping around them to act as a living wall of art. The work to place each of these beads individually and do the embroidery must have taken hundreds of hours to complete. They are cut with a flat front and straight leg that is quite wide. So when you move they move and this adds another element to the design as the light catches the beads while the colours of the embroidered flowers burst around you. The top is made out of a silk jersey and my client ordered it in a solid black. It is ingenious how it closes with a complicated array of a hidden zipper front with two separate areas of silk covered snaps and hooks. I have included some photos of the stages of how it closes for you to see. It wraps around the body and drapes to the one side. The collar is high and you can see the reference to China with its shape. Each sleeve is incredibly long (see the third last detail photo before the label) and when they are pushed up the create a design detailing in themselves with a row of rounded gathers forming around the entire lower part of the arm. I love the long trailing swag of fabric that is set on one side. It cascades over the pants and to the floor. This panel of fabric elevates the design even more and gives it that Gaultier feel of going against the norm. It also has a nod to the trade de luces cape, part of the traditional clothing that Spanish bullfighters wear. It is a brilliant piece of Haute Couture and is everything you want to see in a Haute Couture piece; elegance, breathtaking beauty and a dash of avant garde. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition. 

The upper portion of the top is lined in silk and it zips to close at the inside front. A jersey panel wraps over this and closes with a series of silk covered snap and hook & eye along the side near the neck and also along the waist and hip area of that same side. The pants are fully lined in a silk and close with a hand set zipper. There may be the occasional bead missing from the pants. All the interior work is done by hand to Haute Couture standards. Proper Couture tags on both pieces. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Sourced from the original couture client 

Top
Sleeves: 45.5" and push up to wear
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Interior waist: to 13" flat across from side seam to side seam, inner waist stay hooks at 14"
Hips: open
Length: 29" from neck to shortest point of the front side, 37" to longest point of the back
Hip swag: 47" from waist to longest point of the hem

Pant
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 42" from top of bodice to waist
Inseam: 30" from inner seam to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3581

Reference Photos: Alek Wek for Fall 2001 Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

In 1993 Oscar de la Renta took over as Creative Director at Balmain where he designed the Haute Couture collections until 2002. The house had been floundering at that point and he had a huge impact on the reviving the sales of the couture pieces, mainly by catering to private clients, much like Balmain had originally. The runway photo that we found shows the dress layered over a printed pant but all of the subsequent references of it match the set to the one we have here with the pants in the same striped silk as the top piece. The twin of this set was a part of the 2016 ‘Oscar de la Renta: The Retrospective’ exhibition at de Young Museum, San Francisco, curated by André Leon Talley where it is referred to as being 'evening pyjamas'. The exhibit was broken into different themed galleries and this dress was a part of the garden themed section. Oscar was an avid gardener and the works in this section took inspiration from that life long passion. And it holds an extra special significance because the one shown in the exhibit was loaned to the museum by Annette de la Renta, Oscar's wife and muse, giving it an extra layer of personal connection to its provenance. The dress also appears in the book 'Oscar de la Renta: His Legendary World of Style' by Talley. The Met Museum also holds one in their permanent collections and then this one is the third.

In an interesting twist, one of the other dresses that was a part of the garden section of the exhibit was a striped OLDR dress from 1999 and my client had a that dress as well. It is listing along with this one today. It is incredible coincidence to have both dresses in at the same time with that shared bit of exhibit history behind them and both are exceptionally beautiful.

It is extraordinary to think that Oscar never produced a Haute Couture line under his own label and these few short years at Balmain gives us a chance to see just how talented he really was at all levels. Like most Haute Couture, this is a set that only truly comes to life when it is on an actual body. No matter how good it looks in the photos, the impact it has in real life and how it moves once on is undeniably beautiful. The fabric that both piece are made from is a fine chine silk taffeta that hearkens back to the 18th century with its washed pale blue striping. All of the edges are finished in that same fabric but for the edges it has been tightly knife pleated. These form a wide pleated ruffle all around the collar, down the front and around each cuff. One pale baby pink stripe runs along the edge of the ruffle for a magical bit of colour against the blue. That pink is then picked up on each hand made button that runs down the front and is set on each cuff. The buttons are amazing. They are hand made and they each have a tiny, perfect sprig of hand embroidered pink flower splayed across their tops. Under the evening coat, are a pair of silk taffeta pants in the same fabric. The pants are cut very simply with a flat front and no banding at the waist. They run in a slightly tapered cigarette shape and land just about the ankle depending on your height. Over this is that amazing evening coat that has the lines of a formal court dress worked into its cut. It is created with a nod to the decadence of the eighteenth century with a high pleated collar and softly defined shoulders. The sleeves are long and slim, ending in an elaborate ruffled cuff. It skims over the bodice and tapers in at the waist. The buttons to close it run from the collar to the waist at the front. From that point under the bottom button the front is completely open so that when you walk you see the pants underneath. The back of the coat is a work of art. The skirt trails out behind you, falling from that curved horizontal seam at the waist where the fabric is gathered in soft folds. It is tremendously full and when you walk it causes the skirt to billow out behind you. Haute Couture is always about the details and I love that for the seam that runs across the low back, Oscar used a fine pink silk piping to define the seam and where the gathers of the lower skirting are set. It is the perfect detail to tie in with the pink at the front. This is everything you want to see in a Haute Couture piece; elegance, refinement and a dash of coquetry. It is ornate but sophisticated and feels wonderfully light and perfectly suited to his love of nature and botanical themes. “A garden is probably the most spiritual and pure of joys. It’s a communion with nature and beauty in the most simple and fundamental form.”– Oscar de la Renta. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition. 

Both pieces are unlined and all the interior work is done by hand to Haute Couture standards. The pants close with a hidden set side zipper. There is a built in gusset that is pristine. The evening coat/dress closes with a hand set zipper and then a panel that snaps into place over that with silk, hand covered snaps. Hand made, light shoulder pads. A series of hand embroidered buttons down the front. The inner waist stay hooks to close and you could adjust the hooks if needed or wear it unhooked if you needed the extra room. Each cuff zips to close with a hidden set zipper and has three of the same buttons as decoration. I see one pinhead mar near a front button and a nick out of the fabric near the seam under the arm. One inner seam on either side looks like it was slightly adjusted. There is an extra button sewn to an inner seam. Proper Couture tags on both pieces and the coat one has its couture tape underneath numbered 173 470. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Sourced from the original couture client 

Evening Coat Dress
Sleeves: 23.5"
Shoulders: 15.25"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15" flat across from side seam to side seam, inner waist stay hooks at 14"
Hips: open
Length: 56" from neck to shortest point of the front hem, 62" to longest point of the back hem

Pant
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 39.5" from top of bodice to waist
Inseam: 28" from inner seam to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3568

Reference Photos: (1) 1998 Balmain Silk taffeta coat and pants from the book "Oscar de la Renta: His Legendary World of Style" by Andre Leon Talley.  /  (2) 1998 Balmain Ensemble from The MET Collection Online.  /  (3-4) Spring 1998 Balmain Haute Couture Runway. / (5-6) Photos from the ‘Oscar de la Renta: The Retrospective’ exhibition at de Young Museum, San Francisco. Curated by André Leon Talley.  /  (7) Photo from the book "Oscar De La Renta: The Retrospective" by Jennifer Park and Molly Sorkin.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The longer skirted version of this was presented as Look 38 of the Fall 2001 Haute Couture collection. For the runway it was shown with a full length evening skirt. My client ordered it with a more wearable pencil skirt length which gives it the added benefit of being able to be worn from day through to evening. The Fall 2001 collection was one of his final collections and to have a piece from this season is very special. Vogue noted that "Cocktail hour incorporated every possible variation on the tuxedo: There was a button-front dress, a smoking jacket that morphed into a full tulle skirt, and, naturally, an updated version of the masculine tux immortalized by Helmut Newton in the '70s." Yves play on the tuxedo and 'Le Smoking' suit is one of is most famous hallmarks  He first presented the now famous suit in 1966. His play on traditional menswear is lauded by many as 'having empowered women by giving them the option to wear clothes that were normally worn by men with influence and power'. 

I love the extra wide collar on this one. It is so bold and yet still elegant and refined in feel. There is nothing quite like slipping on a tailored piece of true haute Couture. It feels different somehow and the feeling is something you can only really experience for yourself. The construction is meticulous and it is in wonderful condition. It is sourced from the original couture client. These suits were all done in a play on a men's tux and then were shaped and tweaked by Yves to be immensely flattering on the female body. The cut is masterful and its simple appearance is produced by genius tailoring that is sharp and meticulous. The jacket is tailored with a sleek cut that follows the curves of the body. It is slightly cropped to sit just at the top of the hip. It has his signature matte satin tuxedo collar and on this one that line is exaggerated to cover almost the entire front of the bust area. Yves produced many versions of this suit over the years but what I find remarkable is that each version is distinct in how it closes at the front and the way that the collar is shaped. This one has a single faced, glossy jet button to close below that amazing collar. Two discreet pockets are top set on the hips and the shoulders are sharp and perfectly padded. The fabric that he chose is has a fine rubbing effect to it and it has enough weight that it holds the lines perfectly once it is on. The skirt is cut in a simple pencil shape. Once on, the suit transforms and you can see how beautiful the lines are from the runway photos and video that I have included here for reference. His suits change the way we approach woman's wear and any example of the Le Smoking version is particularly collectible. They are a particularly wonderful example of how strong his tailoring was and vision for a woman's place in the world. This is an important piece of fashion history from one of his final collections. Excellent condition

Both pieces are lined in a rich heavy black silk. The jacket has a single button at the front to close. The skirt has a zipper and hook & eye at the waist. Two pockets on the jacket. All hand finished to couture standards. It looks to have been worn very little if at all. All Haute Couture tags present and it was sourced from the original couture client 

Jacket
Sleeves: 23"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23" from neck to hem at the front, 22 at the back

Skirt
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD3559

Reference Photos: Diana Gärtner for Yves Saint Laurent Fall 2001 Haute Couture Runway Collection. Look 38.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is an exceptional example of Valentino's Haute Couture work from the early 1990s. Finding true couture pieces from this time period in such immaculate condition and so well documented is a rarity and and I am very pleased to have this beautiful evening suit in the shop. The set comes directly from the original couture client and is in immaculate condition. It was ordered from the runway collection as presented in 1994. It was shown on Helena Christensen on the runway with just the jacket and skirt. My client also ordered the matching silk top to go with it. Having the reference shots gives you a wonderful way to see the suit how it looks worn on its own and with the top under it as on my dress form. 

Each of the three pieces that make up this set is exquisite and would be an amazing vintage find on its own. The suit itself is true to the runway. The skirt is cut to hug the hips and then flares out in a wide 11" band of silk at the bottom hem. The silk has been folded into sharp pleats and then set into the skirt so that by the time they reach the hem they open and swirl and curve around you. The movement this creates is wonderful. Over this is that stunning jacket that is cut and tailored to perfection. The soft set shoulders have just a suggestion of padding. It falls from those shoulders and gently widens out and away from the body. This gives the detailing on the jacket an uninterrupted line to be displayed on. The hem of the jacket ends in a rounded curving edge and then under that is a panel of the same pleated silk that finishes the skirt. It layers over the top portion of the skirt and the tiered effect it creates is stunning. The detailing on the jacket is extensive and the pattern combines insets of black silk and silk velvet with hand beading. Glass tube beads are densely applied by hand around the insets and these run from the hem to just about the bust area and all the way around the jacket. Each sleeve is finished with the same treatment. It is insanely beautiful. My client also ordered the matching pleated silk taffeta top to go under the jacket and it is remarkable in its own right. When worn under the jacket it is cut so that the top two pleated tier and collar lie perfectly over the jacket's neckline. That top tier is cut at the back in a way so that it sits perfectly in place so that it can be worn like this. The front of the top has a high ruffled collar and then there are three tiers of silk set on a slight curve at the front. A velvet strop runs down the centre with glossy black dome buttons. These are set on the upper part of the top and then hidden snaps close the bottom part. Each cuff is finished with a pleated ruffle. You can wear everything together or mix and match any of the pieces with what you have in your wardrobe. This is a very special documented set and a fantastic way to add a piece of real Haute Couture to your closet. It is absolutely beautiful. Excellent condition

The top is unlined and the jacket and skirt are lined in a fine black silk. The skirt zips to close at the side and then hooks at the waist. The jacket closes with the glossy black dome buttons as seen and hand set silk loops. The top buttons to close and has hidden set snaps from where the buttons end to the bottom of the front. My client had the pleat that runs around the the of the jacket made so that it can be removed and worn without the ruffle which makes it even more versatile. Made with Haute Couture techniques and by hand. Hand done detailing on the jacket. It looks to have never been worn or worn very little 

Top
Sleeves: 24"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 26.5" from neck to first hem, 32.5" to the end of the pleated hem

Jacket
Sleeves: 22"
Shoulders: 16"
Bust: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 22.5" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 21.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3554

Reference Photos: Helena Christensen for the Fall 1994 Valentino Haute Couture Runway Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The dress comes directly from the original couture client and is in immaculate condition. It was ordered and made on the same time 1985 period as the crystal bow dress I am listing today. This is an exceptional example of Valentino's Haute Couture work that he was doing during the 1980s. Finding pieces from this time period in such immaculate condition is a rarity and I am very pleased to have this beautiful dress in the shop. I am also pleased to have found a reference photo to fully document and date it on Christy Turlington from the November issue of Vogue 1986

This dress is divine. The lines of it are beautiful and as good as it looks on the dress form it is perfection on an actual body. Couture pieces are very difficult to truly show in a photo as they are meant to highlight and show off the body and only truly come to life when worn. The bodice of this dress is made from an inky black silk velvet. It is fitted and nipped in at the waist. One shoulder is left bare and the other is encased in a sheath of velvet. The sleeve is cut to the wrist and the shoulder is set to be high and capped with a pretty gathered seam set on an angle on both the front and the back. The shoulder pad underneath is hand formed so that it is rounded to flow and exaggerate the curve of the shoulder. The skirt is wonderful. It is set into the waist in a series of soft pleats that help to give it the fullness that you see. It is very full and cut with a nod to the skirts of the fifties. It is made from a gunmetal silk taffeta that has wide panels of velvet flocking fused to its surface. These wrap around the skirt in three bands starting just under the waist and ending just above the hem. The inner construction of the skirt is amazing. The outermost layer is backed in a silk organza and all of the seams are hand finished along their edges. Set inside the skirt is that startling emerald green silk taffeta underskirt that is built into the dress. It falls below the hips and then has a second ruffled piece nearer the hem for fullness. This is placed into the interior by hand and backed in silk. There is a wide strip of stiffened net running though the two inner hems. It is cut very full to give the skirt its shape and volume. Plus the unexpected flash of green when you move a certain way or sit is fantastic. It feels very tactile on to have all these skirt swirling around you as you move. It really is wonderful and an amazing example of his earlier Haute Couture work. Excellent condition. 

The bodice, skirt and underskirts are all lined and backed in silk. The sleeve is self backed. Done with Haute Couture construction techniques and it closes with a hidden set metal zipper at the side and then has silk covered snaps and a secondary zipper on the side of the skirt. I have photoed this for you. Inner waist stay hooks to close. Hand made padding on the shoulder and light boning at the side of the bodice around the zipper. A fine metal zipper to close the end of the sleeve. Built in underskirt with stiffened inset at the edges as described above. 

Sleeve: 22.5"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15.5" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 31.5" from waist to hem with 4.5" turned under the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3553

Reference Photo: Christy Turlington in Valentino, Vogue, November 1986.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.