Similar Fortuny gowns are held in museums and private collections world-wide and they are becoming increasingly hard to find. A version in green is a part of the permanent collection at The Costume Institute of The Metropolitan Museum of Art (pictured). The description of that gown is so wonderful I thought I would share it with you here verbatim:

"Mariano Fortuny created a number of variations of his pleated silk gowns. In this model, he combined elements of the classical chiton and the peplos. A "tunic" is attached along its neckline to a long sleeveless underdress, suggesting the apoptygma of the classical peplos. This effect is further emphasized by the handkerchief points at either hip, which would have been seen on the sides of an authentic apoptygma. In the ancient Grecian peplos, the arm openings were positioned along the neckline edge rather than the sideseam edges. This resulted in a dipping hemline at either side of the garment when worn. Fortuny took this structural attribute and achieved the similar, purely decorative effect by cutting away at the tunic's front and back hem. Further, he interpreted the buttoned or pinned closings characteristic of a chiton's shoulder seams by connecting the topline seam of the tunic's sleeves with Venetian glass beads interlaced with silk "rat tail" cording. Fortuny was noted for his antiquarian intentions and scholarly treatment of classical dress, yet in the end, he invented rather than replicated a Hellenic style."

This beautiful version is a labeled Mariano Fortuny gown, circa 1907-1920. It is not perfect but still wearable and a wonderful example of his work. It's imperfections mean a huge difference in price. In hunting for a  comparable I found the very few examples out there to range from $10,500 - $16.500 and none were anywhere near this glorious color.

The dress is hand dyed to an deep raspberry, the pleated silk has a corded silk drawstring at the neck, short kimono style sleeves and an attached tunic with pointed side panels all of which are weighted with deep red, Venetian glass striped beads. The gown is in good condition. The silk is strong and wearable with no splits in the pleats. The pleats have softened throughout and this is the primary reason for the reduction in price. From a wearability point of view it has no effect and gives the gown a softer, more romantic, billowing feel. The beads that should lie along the arm to close it like the one you see from the Met are missing. You could tack the arm shut where a bead would be but I actually loved the open feel that gives it a modern look so chose to leave it as found. I see one spot that is lost in the folds and if held to the light perhaps a tiny pinhole or two but nothing alarming. Even the one from the MET seems to have the same softening of the pleats and I believe this occurs partly from age and partly as a result of the pleats being moved more in this area when worn. All the beads are present along the sides and bottom edge of the tunic. The color, style of sleeve and type of beads used place this in the very early years of Fortuny's career. It is signed along the tape at the seam.

It is 69" long from the mid neck at the back to the hem and the width will accommodate pretty much any size. The upper inside bodice is lined in a nude silk that is fully intact. Part of the seam was loose and I had it lightly tacked down along the edge.

Note that antique and twenties pieces are final sale. They will be packed exceedingly well and we only sell pieces that will stand up to the stress of shipping, however, having pieces potentially shipped multiple times through multiple customs and countries is too hard on garments that are historically important and deserve to be treated with love and care. Please purchase accordingly.

Modern Sizing Equivalent: OSFA

Item# DD2731

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This wonderful suit is from the Fall 1977 Marc Bohan for Christian Dior Haute Couture collection. Whenever I find true couture pieces I am thrilled and this one is especially wonderful.

Made of a beautiful cream silk that has a secondary pattern woven through it. That pattern is little abstract shapes and I love that every once in a while one of the shapes in that design looks suspiciously like little hearts. The pants are cut with a straight leg and this gives them a bit of width while the silk keeps them soft feeling. The waist lines is banded and the front flat with just a hint of softness there as well. Pockets lie along the seams on each hip. The jacket is wonderful and done in a boxed cut that falls in a slim and straight line. It ends just at the hip which gives the pants the perfect balance. I love the clear lucite buttons with their little silver capped tops that run down the front - they are the only embellishment on the piece. three top set pockets in the same fabric add subtle detailing. The straight cut sleeves and rounded are kept simple as well. It was a teeny bit small on my mannequin so on the right size girl will sit even better. In person it is even better. A true piece of history. Numbered Haute Couture. Overall excellent condition with some notes to review below.

Both pieces are fully lined - the jacket in a rich cream silk satin and the pants are also a silk satin but a slightly lighter version. Entirely made by hand in the Dior atelier as Haute Couture dictates. The jacket buttons to close and pants close with a front painted metal zipper and hook & eye at the waist. Pockets on the jacket and pants. There is a 2 1/4 inch hem on the pants if you needed more length. The pants have a slight line of a yellow mark at the lower front right leg near the hem (see photo). The jacket sows discoloration under the arms on the inside that does not go through. (see photo). There is the slightest darkening to the edge of the collar.

Jacket
Sleeves: 21"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23.5" from neck to hem

Pants
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 41" from waist to hem
Inseam: 30.5"

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Photo: from the Dior 1976-77 Fall Haute Couture show in Paris

Item# DD2793

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is a deceptively simple Jean Patou silk dress in a lovely navy silk. Jean Patou once said "Certain dressmakers desire to pass for an artist. I have one ambition: that is to have good taste." and this dress is the very epitome of that statement despite its sexy lines. The dress is numbered and is true haute couture piece that has been made entirely by hand and represents countless hours of dedicated hand work within the atelier. Patou was one of the founders of the sportswear movement and the later designers of the house often hearkened back to this aesthetic. This dress for example, has the lines of the tennis dress, ramped up for evening.  It is constructed from a rich navy silk that is flattering on most skin tones. The bust is plunging halter whose straps curve and hook behind the neck. This leaves the back bare to the waist and offsets the simplicity of the color and cut at the front. The waist is detailed with a padded round piping. Under this the skirt falls in a swirl of fabric cut to flare out and swing. Inside the dress is all handwork and lined in a fine blue silk. Excellent condition.

A hand set silk lining throughout and hand finished seams. Finished to Haute Couture standards. Closes with hand set fine painted metal zipper at the low back. Built in and attached inner waist stay that hooks to close. Hooks to close at the back neck. Numbered label 96773 (or 96113).

Bust: open with no true side seams
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 14.5" from neck to waist
Skirt: 24" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD2775

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The twin of this emsemble is held in the permanent archives of The Met and is perhaps the only other version made. It is as chic and wearable now as it was when first made and feels very modern. It is entirely finished by hand and would have been made under the direct supervision of Hubert de Givenchy himself. Haute Couture is the very pinnacle of the fashion experience and this is a stunning example of that.

The dress is a stunning affair made of a smoky blue grey silk crepe with a classic Grecian feeling one shoulder silhouette. The construction details are wonderful. The bodice has been gathered by hand to create a series of soft little pleats that sit beside each other and follow the angle of the shoulder. They have an almost "wave" feeling to them and this small detail adds tremendous texture to the dress. This leads to a defined waist that has its original gold leather cord that wraps and ties to add shape. The skirt falls below this in a column of lined silk. Over the simple skirt is a second panel of floating fabric that is angled to pick up the angle of the shoulder. The fabric has just enough weight so that Givenchy was able to sculpt the shape he desired. Over this beautiful dress is a caped piece in a matching fabric that flows softly over the body. No shortcut was taken in the construction and it is a stand out piece in every possible way. However much you think this looks fabulous in the photographs it is infinitely better in person. Excellent condition with a few small notes below to review .

The dress is fully lined in a hand set blue silk of very high quality. There is a wide waist stay that hooks at the inner waist. It closes with a hand set, side painted metal zipper and from the waist down there are hidden set snaps that close the fabric of the skirt over tat zipper. The cape slips over the head . The bodice is lightly boned and there are small pads handset inside the bust. There are some light snags in the fabric here and there - most noticeably on the back of the skirt near the bottom - these are seen most when it is laid out flat but once on the color and placement make them negligible but it is mentioned for accuracy and taken into consideration when priced. Finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely done by hand. Haute Couture tape label #55417

Dress
Bust: 15-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder strap to waist
Skirt: 42" from waist to hem

Cape
39" from neck to longest point of hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD2767

Reference Photo: 1973 Givenchy Evening Dress from The MET Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is an amazing and classic feeling suit from the Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture atelier. I have put that it as from the 1980s but the estate it came form was chock full of pieces dating form the late 1970s to the early 80s so it could be a little earlier. It is a chic silhouette with a classic jacket dropped to the top of the hip and a fitted skirt that lands above the knee. The fabric is beautiful and has the feel of a man's suiting, a play on gender that Yves did often. Both the jacket and skirt are constructed from a grey herringbone with grey velvet derailing at the collar and cuffs. It is cut perfectly, with a slim shoulder, a slim notched lapel. The jacket is fitted and follows the curves of your body with two pockets that sit on the front of each hip. The skirt is also fitted and cut above the knee for a subtle sexiness that contrasts the fabric choice with belt loos that match the belt. Excellent condition.

Both pieces are hand lined in silk and the suit was made entirely by hand in the YSL atelier. The jacket buttons to close and the skirt closes with a couture set zipper and hook & eye at the waist. It has it's matching belt. Numbered Haute Couture label 050937

Jacket
Sleeves: 23.5"
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 19.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD2757

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The woman behind the Maggy Rouff label was Maggy Besançon de Wagner and she started her own label in 1928 after a working at the Haute Couture house of Drecoll. The Maggy Rouf house joined the Chambre de commerce et d'industrie de Paris in 1929 and continued to produce Haute Couture until 1965. Maggy gained early recognition by designing for the some of the Starlets of the day like Theda Barra, Pola Negri, and Greta Garbo. I found a photo of a garment from 1963 that has a similar, if not the same, fabric treatment dated 1963. 

This is a chic and deceptively simple dress that has the Haute Couture label of the Rouff atelier. The work is exceptional throughout and it is in immaculate condition. It is made of a pale blue silk that is topped by a pale metallic blue net. Onto the net are ombre dyed ribbon that are coiled and formed into flowers that are strewn across the surface of the dress. These also have a very slight metallic finish to them. Each is hand places and set with slightly curled edges so the flowers have a 3D feel. It is cut in a long column that skims over the bust and waist and then the skirt flares out as it nears the hem. The shape is created through vertical seaming that curves in from the waist and shapes the dress. The interior is a combination of net and silk and the hem is weighted all the way around. It is a dress made to last a lifetime with classic lines will forever remain in style. Excellent, museum quality condition.

Fully lined in silk and closes with a fine painted metal zipper at the side. Completely hand made and finished to Haute Couture standards. Weighted hem

Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 52.5" from shoulder strap to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD2743

Reference photo: Model in a Maggy Rouf gown, 1963. (credits unknown)

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This stunning dress is a numbered haute couture gown by Balmain. It is a fantastic blend of green silk chiffon that is layered over a pale pink base. The effect of the two colors together is quite beautiful. The bodice, cuffs and hem are all heavily covered with hand applied embellishments in pink, gold and clear beads & sequins. Additionally, the upper portion of the bodice on both the back and front is covered with this hand bead work. The neckline is scooped and that same scooped shape is mirrored at the back but cut deeper with a thick panel of beading following the curve. The bead work at the wrist and hem is a full two inches deep. This not only adds detail but gives the hem and cuffs some weight so that the dress sits and drapes perfectly as Balmain intended. The sleeves billow out at the wrist adding the perfect feminine touch. There are endless couture level details - little straps set just inside the bodice to hold your underpinning perfectly in place; weights encased in silk near the back zipper so it falls just so - all perfectly and meticulously done. It is an amazing example of the fine workmanship and attention to detail of Haute Couture. It is a true piece of fashion history. Excellent condition.

The dress is fully lined in a pale peachy pink grosgrain textured silk through the body and silk chiffon within the sleeves. The heavy beading detail that adorns the bodice, cuffs and hem are all applied on netting and there may be the occasional loose or missing bead and thread but it is so profusely done it does not deter. The numbered tag found under the main label is there but the writing has faded so I am not 100% certain of the number. Hand finished. It closes with a back, hand set, painted metal zipper and each cuff has a hidden painted metal zipper. There are two teeny areas on the front where the silk has thinned but they do not go all the way through the fabric.

Sleeves: 22"
Bust: 16" from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" from side seam to side seam
Total length: 49" from shoulder to bottom hem

Modern Sizing equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD456

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival

This very beautiful and perfectly cut couture dress from Courreges. Courreges spent 11 years as a cutter for Balenciaga before starting his own label and that high standard of tailoring shows in his garments. The fabric on this dress is exactly what you look for in a classic Courreges - it is a good weight wool that holds the intended shape, slightly textured and done in his signature cream color. That slight texture and absolutely superb seaming are all that is needed to highlight the cut of this fabulous little dress. The skirt falls in an A-line and the waist simply skims past the torso. The shoulders are cut high and slightly inset. A beautiful curved seam meets the center seam that runs down the center. and this is repeated at the back with a small strap that is set at the lower back and buttons into place. The sleeves are set ling and slim but do pouf slightly above the buttoned cuffs. Extremely collectible and rare with the Courreges couture label in place. It is entirely made by hand and a stunning example of his work during this time period. Excellent, museum quality condition.

Fully lined in a hand set cream silk. It closes with a back, fine, painted metal zipper and the detailing at the lower back buttons on with proper finished buttonholes. It buttons to close on each cuff. Perhaps a touch more of a true cream in person. I see two pinhead size storage marks on the inside of one sleeve and the slightest of marks on the front and back skirt that I cannot capture on film. I only see it in very specific lights so it is very faint but there. I have priced the dress accordingly and this would be in the 3's if this was not there. It's honestly not something that deters at all when on so this is an exceptional price for couture piece of this era.

Sleeves: 21"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 33" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD2727

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This black pleated silk chiffon Dior skirt is utterly fantastic and a true piece of Haute Couture. I am in absolute love with it - the fabric, the design, the workmanship - everything about it is perfection. Haute Couture pieces are always a rare find and the beauty of this particular piece really makes it a once in a lifetime find. It has lost its label but is absolutely Dior and absolutely Haute Couture. It is from the daughter of the original owner and was purchased with many of the other couture Dior pieces I have in the shop at the moment.

The fabric is a fine silk chiffon in a the perfect black that will go with everything. It is so hard to convey the quality and fineness of a black piece and when you add that every seam and edging is completely hand done it is almost impossible. The person that buys this will be extremely pleased to see the level of work and quality of this piece in person. The main portion of the skirt is knife pleated in perfectly spaced lines, which gives it a long and lean cut when you are standing still but allows for a tremendous amount of volume and movement. A more fitted band tops a semi-sheer band of chiffon at the waist, creating shape and a sensual detailing. Under the top floating pleated layer is a more fitted inner layer of silk chiffon. It is really a work of art and of course being that is is true Haute Couture makes it that much more special. Excellent, museum quality condition.

Haute Couture is the very pinnacle of the fashion experience and I would hazard to say that vintage versions are even a little more special then modern ones. Haute Couture is the very pinnacle of the fashion experience and I would hazard to say that vintage versions are even a little more special then modern ones. This dress also comes direct from the daughter of the original Haute Couture client so has not been on the market prior to this.

Fully lined with all interior seams and all edges hand finished. It closes at the side with a handset, fine painted metal zip under a panel of silk that closes over most of the zipper with hand set snaps. Finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely done by hand. I have included photos of the interior work so you can see.

Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 41" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# S728

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This fabulous, and rare, Haute Couture evening coat, done in a rich midnight blue silk is extraordinary. This is from the second collection by Yves Saint Laurent for Christian Dior collection for the Fall/ Winter collection of 1958 and has all its proper labels denoting it as a piece from the Haute Couture collection. It is also the piece from the show that was used in the ad campaign that season and I have included that reference photo here for you as well. It has the strong lines that Yves was after with his ground breaking collection that season and it is extraordinarily beautiful and a true piece of fashion history.

The coat feels like it was worn very little if at all. It is numbered and entirely hand finished and extremely well made to the standards of Haute Couture. This would have been made in the ateliers of Dior and fitted by Yves himself at the final stages. The coat is cut with the volume that the era and Yves dictated where in fashion. A neat rounded collar wraps around the neck and over itself to close just off side. This sits above a double row of large silk covered buttons in the same beautiful deep shade of blue silk the coat if made from. The vertical seams that run down each side of the buttons are cut gracefully on a slight curve and pockets are hidden along them. The back has a great swoop of volume and fullness caused by an inverted pleat that opens from just under the collar and gives the back of the coat incredible volume and swing. It is absolutely wonderful and an exquisite example of Haute Couture from one of the nost important houses of our modern era. Excellent condition

Fully lined in hand set silk and buttons to close at the front with pockets on each hips. It is in the best possible Museum level condition that it could be in in my opinion. The coat is meant to sit and feel slightly oversized so will fit a variety of sizes.

Sleeves: 16"
Shoulders: 16"
Bust: open
Waist: open
Hips: open
Length: 38.5" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG

Item# C434

Reference Photos: (1) Christian Dior, 1958.  /  (2) As photographed for creative purposes by Ted Belton. Stylist: Amanda Lee Shirreffs. Hair & Makeup: Erin Heather. Model: Ginni Connors at Elmer Olsen. (3) & (4) Behind the scenes shots from the shoot from Cherie's iPhone

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Jacques Griffe was considered to be one of the great French couturiers and was one of very few designers capable of the complete design process from sketching to draping, cutting, and sewing the garments. He trained early on with a local tailor, and later, in Paris with Madeleine Vionnet from 1936-39. Vionnet exposed him to unique ways of cutting, and how techniques in draping that enhanced the female body. It is interesting to note that while working under Vionnet he also learned her technique of draping and cutting the fabric using a small jointed mannequin and like Vionnet, he designed by draping fabric directly onto a mannequin for the rest of his career. She actually presented him with a wooden mannequin for this purpose when he launched his own fashion house in 1941 and a ready to wear line in 1947. He continued to design until 1968.

This is a gown that showcases some of his signature design elements. The strapless bodice was a favored silhouette and the rich silk satin used is of very high quality and gives the otherwise simple piece an extra layer of texture and richness. The silhouette is that of a sheath, with a defined waist. The skirt wraps around itself and curves gently upwards at the back where the ends overlap each other giving it a graceful feel. The bodice is fitted and the inner construction is boned and has small front padding so the wearer can forego undergarments there is she wished. An attached panel in the same fabric gracefully curves up and over one shoulder to fall in a trail of silk satin behind you. The inner construction is entirely done by hand and the workmanship refined. This is a beautiful, graceful and exemplary example of one of the great Couturiers of our time. Excellent condition

The dress is unlined through the skirt and lined in a fine black silk through the bodice. There is wire boning and padding inside the bodice interior. The dress is entirely made by hand as Haute Couture demands. The zipper has separated from the dress in some parts. Since this a rare and fine, early Haute Couture example I have decided to leave it entirely original. If the new owner wishes, I can have this done by my tailor prior to shipping, however, some collectors prefer no new stitches be added so I leave the choice to the buyer. The silk satin shows normal patina for its age. There are no significant pulls or scuffs.

Bust: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10" from top of dress to waist
Skirt: 42.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD2726

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is technically not a new item into the shop but I recently had it cleaned again by a specialist and it lightened some of the marks that are on the shoulder so am putting it out for a fresh look. I have also adjusted the price and feel that this is a solid buy at this new price. This would have been designed and created under the eye of Yves himself and this top has the added provenance of coming directly from the daughter of the Haute Couture client so has not been on the market prior to this. The blouse is exquisite and of course it is entirely hand made as the parameters of Haute Couture define. The silk is of the finest grade and you can feel the difference at first touch. All the YSL signature touches are there - the high, gathered shoulder and ruffled cuffs, the high neck with its woderful tie and in this case an added dramatic ruffle at the neck. It is absolutely exquisite and a stunning example of Haute Couture while Yves was alive. It presents as excellent condition but does have two flaws - please read below.

Unlined and closes at the neck with buttons as seen. Each cuff also buttons to close. Entirely made by hand in the YSL atelier. Note two small flaws - there is a faint discoloration to the fabric at the back and an area on one shoulder where it looks like a darker color transferred to the fabric. Presents well when on and if worn under something these do not show at all. Priced accordingly.

It is always a privilege to have true Haute Couture pieces pass through the shop. Haute Couture is the very pinnacle of the fashion experience and I would hazard to say that vintage versions are even a little more special. You also get a lot for your money in many ways with vintage versions as the cost of current Haute Couture has skyrocketed. We have a couple of pieces from this collection coming and have included a partial video of the show.

Sleeves: 24"
Shoulders: 14"
Bust-Hip: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 26" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# S571

Reference Photos: (1-2) Worn by Samantha Angelo of The Eye Travels blog for NYFW 2016. Photos by Keziban Barry /  (3) Shot for creative purposes by Nicole Ormerod  /  Stylist: Nadia Pizzimenti  /  Hair & Makeup:  Jodi Urichuk  /  models: Riley Young & Viktoria Light.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

It is always wonderful to have a true piece of Haute Couture and this Chanel suit is to absolutely beautiful. You can never go wrong with having a classic Chanel suit in your wardrobe and to have a Haute Couture version is that much more special. The current cost of a Chanel Haute couture suit is in the tens of thousands of dollars so the investment in a vintage version is not only smart but a prudent use of your dollars. 

This suit dates to the late 1950s, early 1960s and although unlabeled, it has all of the hallmarks of the Chanel suit - the chain at the inner hem, the vertically stitched inner quilt effect used during this time period and the fine, inner workmanship all done by hand. It is constructed from a classic Chanel boucle that upon close inspection is actually a mix of a pink and coral wool woven and thatched through a black and ivory base. The proprietary boucle Chanel uses gives the fabric structure and stability one way and a slight bias cut effect the other. This also is what creates the perfect fit that Chanel suits have. The fabric has the movement to really sculpt to the wearer and yet retains its shape at the same time. It is masterfully cut and constructed with all the work done by hand. The skirt is just below the knee with a slight flared cut and two inverted pleats. The jacket is classic Chanel with the signature four flap pocket front, each highlight with a domed, gold filigree metal button. The jacket has no closures and a stitched down, secured collar. The packets and cuffs have a contrasting black silk detailing. The inner top quilted paneling of the lining is so well done you could almost flip the entire suit inside out and wear it that way.  Everything about it is special to the last detail. Excellent condition.

Both pieces are lined in a black silk that is stitched in long vertical panels in the jacket. The lining is entirely set and finished by hand. The skirt closes with a hand set painted metal zipper and a flat hook and eye at the waist. It has an additional interlining of black silk organza. The jacket has no closures and the pockets and cuffs are decorated with with domed brass filigree buttons. The signature gold chain runs along the inner edge of the lining.

Jacket
Sleeves: 23.5"
Shoulders: 16.5"
Bust: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 22" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 25.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD2654

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is a museum quality, absolutely beautiful, 1970s silk chiffon gown that is both iconic and instantly recognizable as a Hanae Mori. The best of her peices are little works of art and this one is no exception. This is everything you look for in a Hanae Mori piece. It has one of her spectacular and custom designed prints on a feather light silk chiffon with an inner silk twill base. The print is a serene scene of mountains and boughs with huge flowers trailing across the surface for impactful pops of color.. The cut has her signature draped and flowing feel to it that collectors crave when they look for the best of Hanae's pieces. This is couture on the highest level with everything about the piece done to work and sync with the rest. The printed inner dress is made of a scarf weight silk twill and is a simple sheath dress with a easy tubular cut that widens slightly as it reaches the hem. Over this a floating caftan of printed chiffon. Huge cape-like "sleeves" trail from the neckline and wrap around to the back with each side going right to the floor and buttoning at the top of the back with fabric covered buttons. It even has its original silk chiffon sash that can be used to cinch the waist, be worn around the neck or even used as a head covering. It is an amazing find and very beautiful. Excellent, museum quality condition

The inner silk dress is fully lined in a pink silk and closes with a back painted metal zipper. The silk layer over this closes over the zipper with her signature teeny tiny snaps. The sleeve overlay closes at the top back with fabric covered buttons. Hand finishes.

Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 56" from shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD2652

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This wonderful Haute Couture suit is from the 1957-58 collection and comes from the closet of the original owner who commissioned it directly from the atelier. It's near twin is held in the collection of The Metropolitan Museum of Art however, this version is in the signature blue based purple color showcased in that collection unlike the more common grey version held at The Met. Cristobal Balenciaga was known for his fine tailoring and sculptural approach to design and the restrained and refined lines of this suit showcase that aesthetic. Even Dior himself declared Balenciaga as "the Master of us all" and Balenciaga's impact on fashion cannot be underestimated.

The suit is made of an purple, nubby wool that has a very interesting texture and in some lights has an almost blue tone to it. Cristobal was known for doing the fitting himself, from the initial muslin stage through to the final fittings which means that a couture suit such as this one, made during the years he was alive and headed the house, means that you have a garment fitted by the master himself. The skirt has a simple, straight cut that flares out at the hem for the slightest suggestion of an A-line cut. The jacket is cropped and cut to skim over the torso and suggest the curves of the body underneath. I love the double row of buttons set low on the front - a signature detail. Together the suit is refined and proper and of perfect proportions. To own a piece of couture Balenciaga is truly to own a piece of fashion history and his pieces were worn by starlets and society girls, including Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn and many, many more. Excellent overall condition with notes to review below.

Entirely made by hand to Haute Couture standards. Both the jacket and skirt are fully lined in a hand-set blue silk. Interior hand finished seams. Hand done buttonholes. The skirt closes with a painted metal zipper and hook & eye at the waist. The jacket buttons to close. This suit has the following minor notes for condition: there is a small amount of fading along the edge of the inner seams under each arm and some stitches have disintegrated. Very minor shattering just starting along the edges of those seams. There is very minor, tiny light color loss to the edges of the buttons Please review all photos. The number underneath the label is 63295. I have included detail shots of some of the interior hand work.

Jacket
Sleeves: 16"
Shoulders: 15.5"
Bust: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 17" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 25" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD2642

Reference Photos: (1) F/W 1957-58 Balenciaga Suit from the MET.   (2) Princess Grace of Monaco wearing Balenciaga in Monte Carlo, 1960s.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This wonderful Haute Couture suit is from the 1958 collection and comes from the closet of the original owner who commissioned it directly from the atelier. It's near twin is held in the collection of The Philadelphia Museum of Art with a slight variation on the skirt. Cristobal Balenciaga was known for his fine tailoring and sculptural approach to design and the restrained and refined lines of this suit showcase that aesthetic. Even Dior himself declared Balenciaga as "the Master of us all" and Balenciaga's impact on fashion cannot be underestimated.

The suit is made of an olive green, nubby wool that has an almost mohair finish to it giving it a very interesting texture. Cristobal was known for doing the fitting himself, from the initial muslin stage through to the final fittings which means that a couture suit such as this one, made during the years he was alive and headed the house, means that you have a garment fitted by the master himself. The skirt has a simple, straight cut that flares out at the hem for the slightest suggestion of an A-line cut. The jacket is cropped and cut to skim over the torso and suggest the curves of the body underneath. I love the small notches that sit at the base of each vertical seam  - a tiny detail that adds to the couture feel. It has a matching fringed scarf meant to be worn jauntily around the neck. Together the suit is refined and proper and of perfect proportions. To own a piece of couture Balenciaga is truly to own a piece of fashion history and his pieces were worn by starlets and society girls, including Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn and many, many more. Good condition with notes to review below.

Entirely made by hand to Haute Couture standards. Both the jacket and skirt are fully lined in a hand-set green silk. Interior hand finished seams. Hand done buttonholes. The skirt closes with a painted metal zipper and hook & eye at the waist. The jacket buttons to close. This suit has the following notes for condition: there is shattering to the inner lining of the jacket - most significantly around the armholes with some small vertical shattering just starting in other places as well. There is light color loss to the tops of the texture bits on the buttons There is wear to the silk piping along the top of the skirt and an area of discoloration to the skirt on the exterior. Please review all photos. The number underneath the label is 65768. I have included detail shots of some of the interior hand work and flawed areas.

Jacket
Sleeves: 18"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 19" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD2641

Reference Photos: (1) Winter 1958 Balenciaga Suit from Philadelphia Museum of Art.  (2) Princess Grace of Monaco wearing Balenciaga in Monte Carlo, 1960s.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This wonderful Haute Couture suit is from the 1957-58 winter collection and comes from the closet of the original owner who commissioned it directly from the atelier. Cristobal Balenciaga was known for his fine tailoring and sculptural approach to design and the restrained and refined lines of this suit showcase that aesthetic. Even Dior himself declared Balenciaga as "the Master of us all" and Balenciaga's impact on fashion cannot be underestimated.

The suit is made of a nubby black wool that gives it a beautiful and interesting texture. Cristobal was known for doing the fitting himself, from the initial muslin stage through to the final fittings which means that a couture suit such as this one, made during the years he was alive and headed the house, means that you have a garment fitted by the master himself. The skirt has an unusual overlapping feature at the hem created by a full inner silk skirt that is edged with the same straight wool and set to hang lower then the exterior layer. It is cut in a straight and simple line with the very slightest suggestion of an A-line cut. The jacket is cropped and extremely beautiful. It utilizes the very minimal of seaming in its design with curving shoulders and arms and a flared cut through the body - a subtle play on his iconic "cocoon" shaping he was known for. It buttons off to the side with huge black buttons whose plastic surface is also textured to reflect the fabric choice. Together the suit is refined and proper and of perfect proportions. To own a piece of couture Balenciaga is truly to own a piece of fashion history and his pieces were worn by starlets and society girls, including Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn and many, many more. Excellent condition.

Entirely made by hand to Haute Couture standards. Both the jacket and skirt are fully lined in a hand-set black silk. Interior hand finished seams. The skirt closes with a painted metal zipper and hook & eye at the waist. The jacket closes with hidden hook and eye down the side that the buttons are placed on. There is the slightest of shattering to the silk beginning under each arm and this is left as found. The number underneath the label is 61H17. I have included detail shots of some of the interior hand work. There is a fabric tie belt that came with the suit that will be included when sent, but is not photoed.

Jacket
Sleeves: 16" approx.
Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 18" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD2640

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I am dating this to the 1969-1970 collection based on the example held in The Metropolitan Museum's permanent archives. You can see the very similar design treatment at the front with that incredible scooped out detail. The best Cardin designs have this molded sculptural element to them and this one has that in spades. The dress is constructed from a deep chocolate wool of a mid-weight that holds the sculpted shape perfectly. It is a sleek and simple column that when off of the hanger literally falls in a straight, tubular shape. The dress is meant to define the shape rather then the body under it. That being said, the dress has its own version of sexuality with that high front scoop that shows a lot of leg and the low cut neckline that mirrors the scoop on the skirt and falls low below the bust. Holding that scoop in place is a signature circle of the same fabric that looks suspended between the fabric. This is Cardin at his best and is an instantly recognizable and rare design. It is very rare and very special. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a brown silk and closes with a back zipper and hook & eye at the neck.

Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 47" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD2636

Reference Photo: ca. 1970 Pierre Cardin Evening Dress from The MET Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is an exceptionally beautiful Jean Patou silk dress that is an absolute masterpiece. It is an important and early representation of both the house of Patou and the level of haute couture being produced during this time period. Jean Patou once said "Certain dressmakers desire to pass for an artist. I have one ambition: that is to have good taste." and this dress is the very epitome of that statement. The dress is numbered and is true haute couture piece that has been made entirely by hand and represents countless hours of dedicated hand work within the atelier. It is one of the most beautiful dresses that I have had come through my hands and the photos cannot begin to convey the detail and fine work that has gone into the creation of this piece. It is constructed from two silks - a rich black silk satin silk used for the bust, straps and hem and a fine black, pleated silk chiffon that lies between. The silk satin portions have hand done trapunto quilting for a 3D effect that is quite beautiful and the designs swirl against the background fabric. The bust is fitted and has a gentle curve up from the waist. The waist itself is hand gathered silk chiffon and the way it is done gives it a soft and romantic feel. Under this the skirt falls in a cascade of silk chiffon, weighted by the 8" hem of silk satin. The skirt is an absolute marvel. If worn with no underskirts it lies as shown, full but not overly so. This hides the fact that there is actually yards and yards of fabric in that skirt. I laid it out and shot it from above so you can see - it is not just a circle skirt but beyond a circles skirt with an excess of fabric that goes beyond even a true circle. With the addition of a crinoline underneath you can go as full as you wish. Without one you get a stunning semi-transparent feel that gives it a very modern twist. Really an extraordinary piece and I cannot even imagine the hours that it took to create this dress. Excellent condition.

The bodice has a hand set silk lining and is boned. Finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely done by hand. Closes with hand set fine painted metal zipper at the side. Attached inner waist stay. Numbered label 74.994. One of the interior boning is slightly breaking through its fabric holder but seems stable and this of course is only in the interior. This is listed in clean, odor free, as found condition as I don't like cleaning haute couture unless it is absolutely necessary. The details are even more beautiful in person

Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15.5" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 24.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD2572

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is an incredible dress by Marc Bohan for Christian Dior from the 1978 Fall Haute Couture presentation. It is one of the most dramatic pieces I have even seen and I can just imagine it floating down the runway in its full glory with those fantastical sleeves floating out behind it. I have seen a version of this that would have been special ordered through the Dior boutique with the sleeves and hem cut to the same length - an alteration that the client probably chose to have done at the time for convenience and ease of wearing, but this version is that of the true Haute Couture fantasy vision of Mr Bohan. It not only has the Haute Couture tag present but also the hang written hang tag from Neiman Marcus where it would have been ordered through directly from the atelier in France. The handwritten tag and tag on the dress itself identifies it as being Look #54 from the runway and with an original price of $7,975 which converts to an astounding  $29,434.97 in modern dollars. An amazing amount of money to have paid back in 1978. It is made of a vivid blue silk charmeuse and the fabric reminds me of the liquid silks used back in the thirties. It is the kind of fabric that seems to have a life on its own and the color appears to glow it is so true and vibrant. The neckline is cut square with a top stitched pattern that highlights the cut of the neckline. The gown flows from this to the floor and is cut in a long bias cut column with no defined waist. Belting it will give you an entirely different silhouette. Each sleeve is astounding and the length of each is approximately 7 1/2 feet! They are constructed so they are attached to the top part of the shoulder, all the way around to where this meets the neckline. They simply drape over the arm from there and are completely open all down the inner edge. So in effect they are almost like a cape that lies over each arm. About the length of your hand there is a small section of the edging left undone - this allows you to slip a finger through and effectively create a "sleeve" from which the rest of the fabric drapes down from there. I am sure if you wanted your hands to remain completely free you could perhaps loop this to a cuff or bracelet. There are more loops near the bottom and in one photo I have shown this tacked up at the back. You could also loop that end through a belt or secure then with a large brooch. I wish I could find a runway photo of how this was styled for the catwalk as I think that a clever girl could come up with a zillion ways to utilize those little loops and really create some amazing shapes and drapes. It presents as excellent condition but does have some small issues of note. Please read the paragraph below.

Fully lined through the body in a blue tissue silk and closes with hidden set painted metal zipper at the side and hook and eye just above that. Hand finishes to couture standards. 31" high slit on one side.  The fabric shows general fading and slight discoloration throughout and there is a small area under each arm that shows discoloration (this does not show when on because of the cut of the sleeves) and also a slight yellowing to the fabric here and there - I have photoed the largest area. The gown is still wearable even with these faults and it is an important Haute Couture piece that with the original tags present is extremely well documented.

Sleeves: 87" approx.
Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 61" from waist to hem (sleeves add 28" to length)

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD2566

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

If you collect hats you will be thrilled to see this little beauty as it is just exceptional. I am dating this to the early 1950s and I have to admit that I have not seen a hat this wonderful before. The cap base is made of a woven palm leaf that has been hand dyed red. Onto this are little burst of berries. Each hand placed. What is remarkable is that each of this berries is actually a small glass ball painted red. They are set so that they move and lightly brush against each other making a whispering tinkling noise. It is just extraordinary and a real treasure for the collector or hat lover.

It is made to just sit on the top of the head and so doe snot have a true hat size as it should fit any size head.

Item# A287

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The gorgeous little day dress is made of a fine printed silk whose mod feeling design belies a stunning cut. It can easily be worn for either day or into the evening hours for cocktails with proper accessorizing. I love the refined, body skimming cut and the tremendously full sleeves that make it feel fresh and modern. For me the cut and print combine to give it that high end "geek chic" feel that is so prevalent on the runways of today. The fabric is very light in weight and backed in a soft cafe au lait silk that gives the dress a very sensual feel once on. No shortcut was taken in the construction and it is a stand out piece in every possible way. The neckline is high and yoked with the shoulders and bodice softly gathered into that yoke. The sleeves are extremely fill and pouf above their cuffs. A fabric tie runs around the waist allowing you to leave it loose and shift like or cinch it in for shape. The skirt below that has two charming little slant pockets on each hip and it falls softly to below the knee. However much you think this looks fabulous in the photographs it is infinitely better in person. Excellent condition with one small condition note below.

This is truly one of those extraordinary Haute Couture pieces that every collector and vintage lover needs to own in their collection. Everything about this piece showcases the restraint of couture and the mastery of fabric and technique. It is as chic and wearable now as it was when first made. It is entirely made by hand. Haute Couture is the very pinnacle of the fashion experience and I would hazard to say that vintage versions are even a little more special then modern ones.

Fully lined in a hand set silk of very high quality. It closes with a hand set, painted metal zipper and hook and eye at the back. Each cuff has a fine hand set zipper and hook & eye. The belt is partially attached and snaps into place where it is not. Note that the exterior presents as excellent, inside there is shattering under each arm to the lining. Price accordingly but it is stable enough to wear as is and is sold entirely original. Finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely made by hand. Haute Couture tape label present under label #H205-5-74

Sleeves: 25" approx.
Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 14.5" from shoulder to waist
Skirt: 28" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item#

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.