This is a stunning suit that has all three original pieces and is the twin of the piece that walked the runway for the Fall 2000 show. There is nothing more classic then an iconic Chanel suit and there are incredibly beautiful and chic once on. True Haute Couture pieces by Chanel are an extraordinary find as they are so very rare and hard to come by. It is an incredibly beautiful and historically important example of the work that Karl was doing for Chanel during this time period. It is absolutely gorgeous to see in person.

I love that this has all three pieces - the jacket, skirt and the inner silk chiffon tank. It makes it so versatile since you can mix and match all of pieces and wear them in so many different ways. The inner tank is made of a deep blue silk chiffon and then the suit is constructed from one of Chanel signature boucle fabrics. From a distance it presents as a black with a touch of a secondary colour running through it to create a pattern but as you get closer you see that there is actually a riot of colours woven through the fabric. The colours in there are a bright and vivid turquoise, pink, green and a peach mixed with navy and black and it is absolutely beautiful fabric. The jacket is that classic and perfect Chanel cut with every seam meticulously executed. The sleeves are long and the shoulders have soft padding inside for a touch of structure. The seaming is set in curving lines to create the shape that you see and there are little pockets hidden along the seams at the front. It has a small rounded and neat collar and it hooks to close down the front. What really makes it exceptional is that ruffled netting that goes from the neck right to the hem on both sides of the front. The ruffle gradually narrows down as it reaches the bottom hem. This adds an unexpected touch of detail and softness to the jacket. It also creates movement as it slightly moves as you move. The skirt is precisely and simply cut with that slight flare as it reaches the hem that the best Chanel skirts have. Both the jacket and skirt are lined in an extremely high-quality black silk. There is a signature Chanel chain set around the hem of the jacket. This is a classic Chanel suit that will never go out of style and it is exceptional. The fact that it is true Haute Couture just makes it better and the workmanship is out of this world. It is a beautiful piece showcasing the work that the Chanel ateliers are capable of and of Karl's time there. Excellent condition.

Both the dress and the jacket are fully lined in a black silk. The tank is made of a single layer of a deep blue silk chiffon. The tank slips over the head to wear with no closures. The skirt closes with a side zipper and hook and eye at the waist. The jacket has hidden set hook and eye down the front. The jacket has the appropriate Haute Couture label and numbered tape present. All three pieces are completely made by hand.

The Chanel boucle is created with their proprietary method of weaving that they themselves describe as "by weaving the warp and weft, using a variety of different kinds of threads which creates a unique and somewhat irregular appearance. The warp – vertically strung – is the background of the fabric, the base that will support the assembly of materials. There can be up to 12 different threads used for a single warp. The weft – woven horizontally – gives the fabric its unique character and can have an unlimited number of threads. Tight, perforated, textured, thick, with a relief, plaited, random, twill… the potential number of effects is endless". This technique gives you that classic Chanel look.

Jacket
Sleeve: 23.5"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 27" from neck to hem

Tank
Bust: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 22" from shoulder to hem

Skirt
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4146

Reference Photos: Fall 2000 Chanel Couture Runway, Look 18. Model: Roos van Bosstraeten.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is a stunning set whose twin walked the runway that season. The set is incredibly beautiful and chic once on the body. Vogue noted that "The reinvention of the iconic Chanel suit began with fluted knee-length coats, worn, with ropes of glistening pearls at the neckline" and closed by stating that "This was a triumphant collection for Lagerfeld, as realistically wearable as it was dreamily desirable." I love that we found both runway photos and some video footage for you to see how dynamic this is on the body. True Haute Couture pieces by Chanel are an extraordinary find as they are so very rare and hard to come by. It is an incredibly beautiful and historically important example of the work that Karl was doing for Chanel during this time period. It is absolutely gorgeous to see in person.

I love how diverse and different this set feels depending on whether you wear the pieces together or separately. The set is made up of two pieces. A gorgeous to-the-knee coat with a chic little dress underneath that. Both of the pieces are constructed from a surprisingly light weight deep blue boucle. This fabric was actually a centerpiece of the show and a new step forward in the way they made their tweeds.  Karl wanted them to feel almost weightless and easy to wear once on the body. The dress mixes that with a silk chiffon bodice to carry on the feeling he strove for with these pieces. “Fragility,” he said. “Everything is almost weightless.” The inner dress is cut in the sleek and simple shape that skims over the body and flares out slightly as it nears the hem. The skirt is made out of the same deep blue tweed as the jacket and then the top is attached to that and is made out of a deep blue silk chiffon. The top is all about delicacy. It is made of two layers of the silk. Each sleeve is long and ends in a neat little buttoned cuff. Both the front and the back are detailed with flat knife pleats. I love how the front of the skirt dips up into the top and at the back it dips down. This little shaping detail just make it lie even better on the body. The workmanship is stunning. The coat slips on over that and has light shoulder pads for a touch of structure. The sleeves are long. It has no closures except for a hook and eye at the neck. This allows it to flare out around you and gives it a softness as you move. The jacket is incredibly detailed. It has four top set pockets on the front and each has a row of glass beads along the upper edge. The same glass beads circle the hem of each cuff and go around the collar. The glass beads cleverly act as a weight for the coat so that it always falls perfectly once on the body. I love the low scoop of the front neckline and the ribbons that sit at the base of the neck. You can just let them hang loosely or tie them. Ribbons also sit on the edge of each sleeve and again you can leave them loose or have them tied into a pretty bow for a more formal feel. The jacket and the skirt of the dress are lined in a high-quality black silk. This Chanel set is exceptional and is true Haute Couture. It is a beautiful piece showcasing the work that the Chanel ateliers are capable of and of Karl's time there. Excellent condition.

Both the skirt of the dress and the jacket are fully lined in a fine black silk. The top is made from two layers of silk chiffon. The dress closes with a series of silk covered buttons at the back and each cuff has two silk covered buttons and loops. The jacket has a hook and eye at the top of the neck and at each cuff. Both pieces have an appropriate Haute Couture label and numbered tape present. Slight pilling here and there on the jacket but I am being picky.

The Chanel boucle is created with their proprietary method of weaving that they themselves describe as "by weaving the warp and weft, using a variety of different kinds of threads which creates a unique and somewhat irregular appearance. The warp – vertically strung – is the background of the fabric, the base that will support the assembly of materials. There can be up to 12 different threads used for a single warp. The weft – woven horizontally – gives the fabric its unique character and can have an unlimited number of threads. Tight, perforated, textured, thick, with a relief, plaited, random, twill… the potential number of effects is endless". This technique gives you that classic Chanel look.

Jacket
Sleeve: 24"
Slightly dropped shoulders: 16.5"
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 39" from neck to hem

Dress
Sleeves: 22.5"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 38" from shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4147

Reference Photos/Video: Spring 2003 Chanel Couture Runway, Look 3.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This amazing set is the twin of the piece that walked the runway for the Fall 2004 collection. Vogue said of this collection; 'Trust Karl Lagerfeld to rise above the cacophony of questions about the relevance of haute couture. At Chanel, he floated an argument that insouciantly covered the issues and showed what couture can be now: a beautifully thought-out, long-term investment that also addresses our multitasking world. “This is reality couture,” he said.... Though fully of the twenty-first century, his best pieces were also timeless Coco-isms: of the moment, yet guaranteed to outlast this and many seasons to come.' This set is just that. A completely timeless and beautiful suit that will never go out of style. True Haute Couture pieces by Chanel are an extraordinary find as they are so very rare and hard to come by. It is an incredibly beautiful and historically important example of the work that Karl was doing for Chanel during this time period. It is absolutely gorgeous to see in person.

The versatility of this set comes from a few elements. First of all it is made from a classic black and white boucle that will never go out of style. Then you have the fact that is made from two pieces. A chic and simple dress along with an amazingly perfectly cut jacket that goes over top of that. This all adds up to make these pieces very versatile. You can mix and match both pieces and wear them in so many different ways together or apart. Even just a change in colour of the accessories and shoes that you wear are going to make either piece look completely different. Both of the pieces are made from a stunning black and white version of the Chanel signature boucle fabric. The dress is edged with a fringe made of the two wools that circles around the hem, arms and neckline. When the two pieces are worn together this extra little detail softens the feel of the set and gives it a pretty and romantic touch. The inner dress is cut in a sleek and simple shift that skims over the body and has a more pencil skirt cut. Clever and subtle seams shape the dress around you so that it's very flattering. It is hand lined in a rich black silk. The jacket slips over that and has structured shoulder pads for shape and the sleeves are long. It has meticulous seaming that creates that famous Chanel box cut. It closes down the front with carved out metal buttons. The collar is neat and high. There are two shallow flap pockets that sit one atop of the other at the front. I love the contrast of the very structured jacket with the softness of the dress underneath. The jacket is lined in that same extremely high-quality black silk as the dress and there is a signature Chanel chain set around the hem. This is a classic Chanel set that will never go out of style and it is exceptional. The fact that it is true Haute Couture is just the icing on the cake. It is meticulously made to the highest standards. It is a beautiful piece showcasing the work that the Chanel ateliers are capable of and of Karl's time there. Excellent condition.

Both the dress and the jacket are fully lined in a fine black silk. The dress closes with a back hidden set zipper. The jacket closest with the buttons down the front that you see. All four pockets on the jacket are shallow but functional and all but one still has their tacking in place. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. The jacket has an appropriate Haute Couture label and numbered tape present. Both pieces are completely made by hand

The Chanel boucle is created with their proprietary method of weaving that they themselves describe as "by weaving the warp and weft, using a variety of different kinds of threads which creates a unique and somewhat irregular appearance. The warp – vertically strung – is the background of the fabric, the base that will support the assembly of materials. There can be up to 12 different threads used for a single warp. The weft – woven horizontally – gives the fabric its unique character and can have an unlimited number of threads. Tight, perforated, textured, thick, with a relief, plaited, random, twill… the potential number of effects is endless". This technique gives you that classic Chanel look.

Jacket
Sleeve: 24"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 22" from neck to hem

Waist: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 38.5" from shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4148

Reference Photos: Fall 2004 Chanel Couture Runway, Look 9. Model: Audrey Marnay.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is the twin of the piece that walked the runway for the Fall 2000 in a different colour. The set is incredibly beautiful and chic once on the body. True Haute Couture pieces by Chanel are an extraordinary find as they are so very rare and hard to come by. It is an incredibly beautiful and historically important example of the work that Karl was doing for Chanel during this time period. It is absolutely gorgeous to see in person.

I love that this set has both the light car length coat and a chic inner dress. It makes it so versatile and you can mix and match both pieces and wear them in so many different ways. Both of the pieces are constructed from a stunning deep coral pink and moss green version of the Chanel signature boucle fabric. From a distance it combines to give a more rust coloured feel but as you get closer you see the two distinctive colours. It is absolutely beautiful. It is then edged with a fringe made of the two wools. On the jacket this fringing follows all of the edges of the coat and then also circles each cuff. On the dress it circles around the hem. When the two pieces are worn together this extra little detail softens the feel of the set and gives it a nice pretty and romantic touch. The inner dress is cut in the sleek and simple shift that skims over the body and flares out slightly as it nears the ham. Clever and subtle seams shape the dress around you so that it's very flattering. It is hand lined in a rich deep green silk. The jacket slips over that and has shoulder pads for a structure and  the sleeves are long. It has meticulous seaming set in curving lines to create the shape that you see. It has no closure except for a hook and eye at the neck. What really makes it exceptional is that ruffled piece that goes from the neck right to the hem. The ruffle gradually narrows down as it reaches the bottom hem. This adds an unexpected touch of detail and softness to the jacket. It also creates movement as it slightly moves as you move. The jacket is lined in that same extremely high-quality green silk and there is a signature Chanel chain set around the hem. This is a classic Chanel set that will never go out of style and it is exceptional. The fact that it is true Haute Couture is just the icing on the cake. It is meticulously made to the highest standards. It is a beautiful piece showcasing the work that the Chanel ateliers are capable of and of Karl's time there. Excellent condition.

Both the dress and the jacket are fully lined in a fine deep green silk. The dress closes with a back hidden set zipper. The jacket has a hook and eye at the top of the neck. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Both pieces have an appropriate Haute Couture label and numbered tape present. Both pieces are completely made by hand

The Chanel boucle is created with their proprietary method of weaving that they themselves describe as "by weaving the warp and weft, using a variety of different kinds of threads which creates a unique and somewhat irregular appearance. The warp – vertically strung – is the background of the fabric, the base that will support the assembly of materials. There can be up to 12 different threads used for a single warp. The weft – woven horizontally – gives the fabric its unique character and can have an unlimited number of threads. Tight, perforated, textured, thick, with a relief, plaited, random, twill… the potential number of effects is endless". This technique gives you that classic Chanel look.

Jacket
Sleeve: 24"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 39" from neck to hem

Waist: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 38" from shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4142

Reference Photos: Fall 2000 Chanel Couture Runway, Look 17. Model: Tetyana Brazhnyk.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I am starting to work through a collection of couture pieces that I am handling at the moment for my client and all she could recall for this piece was this it was her mothers and that it was from the 1990s. I have not yet found a photo reference for this one but when I do I will add it and send to the new owner. The set is incredibly beautiful on the body. True Haute Couture pieces by Chanel are an extraordinary find as they are so very rare and hard to come by. It is an incredibly beautiful example and historically important example of the work that the Chanel ateliers were doing during this time period. It is absolutely gorgeous to see in person.

The ability that this set has to transform once on the body is fabulous. With the jacket on the set has that classic Chanel suit feel and it feels very elegant and reserved. But once you take the jacket off it takes on more of the feel of a more sensual evening piece. The dress has that easy dropped feel of the twenties that Karl so often touched upon in reference to Coco's initial designs for the house. Both pieces are made from a deep blue silk organza. This fabric allows it to keep the shape that he intended while still keeping both pieces extremely light in weight. The dress is dropped from the shoulder from wide straps that curve up and over each shoulder. The bodice is easy fitting and cut to skim over you with a shallow V at the front. It is hand pieced together in a pattern of panels that are meticulously sewn together. The waist is dropped and then from under that the pleated skirt flows out to the floor with incredible movement. The combination of this fabric choice with the pleats gives the skirt incredible movement. The pleats open and flare outward as they reach the hem and this allows the skirt to swing out around you. Two layers of silk tulle are built-in underneath the skirt to add to and create the volume that you see. The lightness of the fabric and the pleats combine to make the skirt move at your slightest movement. I think it's incredible to see this on and moving. The jacket sits over top of this and it has a soft and simple cut. The neckline is cut wide across to follow the neckline of the dress underneath. The collar is wide and notched for that bit of a 20s feel to the design. The sleeves are long and each has a notch that runs up the inside seam. It hooks and snaps to close down the front. It does have structure but it's meant to look soft on the body. There are small shoulder pads in each shoulder but they are soft and light. There is a signature Chanel chain at the base of the jacket so that it hangs perfectly. All of the work is meticulously done by hand to Haute Couture standards. It is an incredible piece of Chanel couture. It's very beautiful and even better in person. Great condition with a note below

The jacket is fully lined in a blue silk and closes with hidden snaps and hook and eye at the front. A signature Chanel chain runs around the inside hem. The dress is lined in the same silk organza through the bodice and then the skirt has two layers of silk tulle. One layer is black and the other is a matching blue. The dress closes with a zipper and then there is a separate set of snaps to close on each of the three layers of the skirt. An inner waist stay hooks to close. Some of the edges of the seams have slightly faded. Mainly on the jacket and bodice of the dress. It gives it a kind of degrade look. It almost feels intentional because it's so even everywhere but I can't say for sure that it is. Please see the shots after the label shots and on the general shots as well. Some of the pleats have softened slightly in the skirt. Both pieces have an appropriate Haute Couture number and tape

Jacket
Sleeves: 24"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24" from neck to hem

Dress
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 18" from top of shoulder to slightly dropped waist
Skirt: 42" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4139

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This beautiful Yves Saint Laurent top is a true piece of Haute Couture amd comes directly from the original owner. It is a remarkable example of his work during this time period. I am hoping to find it exact date and then can also find the sketch of it which I will share with its new owner.

The workmanship on this top is absolutely exquisite. The top is entirely hand made and it is a work of art. It is made from a fine black silk velvet that is layered over a black silk chiffon inner base. The level of workmanship is extraordinary. The velvet is cut and embroidered to form an intricate floral and leaf pattern. Where it is open between the flowers and leafs you get that bit of transparent black with the silk chiffon. So it gives the illusion that you can see the bare body underneath while still completely covering you. It is an effect that is very sexy once on an actual body. Seeing it on the dress form just gives you a hint of it. The workmanship is extensive and the time it would have taken to create this piece is extraordinary since it would have all been pieced together by hand. The cut is kept simple so that the pattern takes center stage. The neck is scooped and the shoulders have light padding. I took a photo of one so you can see how even the shoulder pads are made by hand. The waist is brought in a touch but it really is meant to just skim over the body.  It is an absolute work of art and a stunning example of Haute Couture during this time period. Excellent condition

Backed in a black silk chiffon and closes down the back with a hand set zipper and then it snaps over that. The snaps are set to follow the pattern so that there is no closure shows at all. Entirely made by hand. Hand made light padding in each shoulder. Haute couture tag and numbered tape present.

Shoulders: 15.5"
Sleeves: 22
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# S979

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Christian LaCroix launched his Haute Couture house in 1987 after his 1986 collection for jean Patou made him a star. Many attribute him with making modern couture inspirational again when it was considered a dying art by many during this time period. When he did launched his own label his strong aesthetic took the world by storm. His collections were lavish affairs and his designs seemed to span the decades with their eccentric glamour pulled from multiple sources of inspiration. This top is from the Spring 2006 collection. On the runway it was shown with a more transparent lining. This version is a little easier to wear and it is absolutely gorgeous.

The workmanship on this top is absolutely exquisite. The top is entirely hand made as the parameters of Haute Couture define. I love the extensive embroidery that covers the exterior. The level of workmanship is extraordinary. The top is made from a layer of ivory silk netting over and inner silk. The netting is embroidered with the intricate pattern that completely covers the entire top. I love the mix of the ivory stitches and then the stark pops of white thread to highlight parts of the patter, The workmanship is extensive and the time it would have taken to create this piece is extraordinary. The top is sleeveless and has a scooped neckline. It is cut easy through the body and flares out as it nears the scalloped hem. The bow at the front is decorative and it has a more skimming cut them the fitted under the bust feel that you see on the runway. It is an absolute work of art and a stunning example of Haute Couture during this time period. Excellent condition

Backed in an ivory silk and closes down the back with a series of hidden, hand set snaps. Entirely made by hand and it appears to have been worn very little if at all. 

Waist: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# S978

Reference Photos/Video: Spring 2006 Christian Lacroix Haute Couture Runway Collection, Look 16. Model: Heather Marks.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

In 1993 Oscar de la Renta took over as Creative Director at Balmain where he designed the Haute Couture collections until 2002. The house had been floundering at that point and he had a huge impact on the reviving the sales of the couture pieces, mainly by catering to private clients, much like Balmain had originally. It is extraordinary to think that Oscar never produced a Haute Couture line under his own label and these few short years at Balmain gives us a chance to see just how talented he really was at all levels. I was very pleased to be able to fully document this dress with its photo on the runway and we even found one that shows the twin of this dress just behind Oscar for the finale of the show.

Like most Haute Couture, this is a dress that only truly comes to life when it is on an actual body. No matter how good it looks in the photos, the impact it has in real life and how it moves once on is undeniably beautiful. You can see in the runway shots that the dress sits lower on the sides of shoulders then where it sits on the dress form and this simple difference changes the look of it tremendously. The fabric is a fine silk in a pale baby blue that gives it the weight it needs to perfectly hold and to shape you through the bodice. The dress is sleeveless with wide straps that curve up and off the shoulder. It is fitted to be like a corset with built in boning and seaming to shape you. The neckline is scooped at the front and dips into a V at the back. There are attached underskirts to hold the volume of the skirt and if you wanted even more there is room to add a crinoline. The bodice is shaped with long vertical seaming that curves into the dipped waist seam. At the back it closes with a corset detailing and matching coloured ties. The skirt is set along the waist seam in a series of big soft inverted pleats that give you this lovely curve around the top of the hips. Then as they open out the volume of the skirt is achieved to give it the incredible volume that you see. Each layer of the fabric is light but when all the layers, and the sheer volume of fabric that has been used, is combined the overall weight of the dress is substantial and it feels like a couture piece. You can see how stupendous this is one in the runway photos and the massive sweep that the skirt has. This comes to me from one of his the original couture clients. This dress is definitely a dress that could walk a carpet and it would also make an amazing dress for the bride looking for a non-traditional choice or as an alternative dress in a more extended wedding celebration. Excellent condition with a minor note below

Fully hand lined in a pale blue silk through the bodice. The skirt has an inner silk lining and then two layer of tulle over that and a partial layer around the inner hips. Hidden boning and corseting through the bodice. It closes with a hidden inner zipper, a half zipper at the exterior waist and then laces to close over that. A waist stay inside that hooks to close and a second hooked stay above that this sits just under the bust. Hand finished through out to Haute Couture standards. Proper couture tag present Couture tape #172438. I see some teeny marks on the grommets which would be a natural part of normal use. One yellowish mark near the seam above the hem. A couple of very faint marks here and there neat the hem. All of which you only see if you lay it out flat and look for them

Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner corset waist: 13-14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 14.5" from top of shoulder to side waist
Skirt: 44" from side waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4136

Reference Photos: Spring 1994 Pierre Balmain Haute Couture Runway.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This dress is from the Fall 1990 collection and came to me directly from the original couture client. In the book Yves Saint Laurent: Catwalk they said this of this collection; 'Yves Saint Laurent allowed himself to be truly audacious for this presentation of 137 designs. The Baroque style was evident in outfits were the a fairy tales.' Elle magazine summarized Saint Laurent's work as 'insouciance elevated to the rank of fine art.' .... and of the colours that he chose for the collection the New York Times noted that 'He works with a painter's eye, and the results are always satisfying, never soporific.' They also said that 'Lace is a cornerstone of evening dressing. Sometimes it is thick velvety guipure lace, sometimes spidery Chantilly. It never looks matronly.' This was one of the final dresses of the show and a beautiful example of all of those comments by the press. I am also very happy to have found the runway photo. With 137 looks shown finding this exact one from the handful of shots that are out there of the collection is almost miraculous. In addition to tall of that I have included a snap of the original sketch and fabric swatches from the boxed book set "Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: L'oeuvre Integral 1962-2002". The dress has so much structure and form to it but once on the body it sits just perfectly and transforms into something magical.  It is an exceptional and well documented example of Laurent's Haute Couture work that he was doing during this time period.

A silk taffeta in a jeweled toned fuchsia sweeps across the top of the bodice and then extends down to form each sleeve. The fabric is gathered and ruched down the length of each arm. The shoulders are left bare to balance out the volume underneath and have that expanse of skin for a touch of sensuality. Under the fucshia is a wide band of a  slightly metallic copper silk that goes from the top of the bust the the slightly dropped waist. The silk has been gathered along each side to create soft pleats that wrap around you. The skirt comes out from under that in a series of soft gathers that open up to allow it to be quite wide by the time it reaches the hem. The underskirt is made from a pale purple silk and that is covered in a top layer of French black lace. The lace is hand made and has a stunning floral design set within medallions. These are repeated throughout the lace to create the beautiful pattern that you see. I love that the bottom edge of the lace follows the curving shape of the design that is in the lace. To finish Yves wrapped a wide green silk ribbon around the waist. This unusual colour choice is spectacular when you see it all together and on the body. This is a spectacular example of his work and a piece you would only ever normally see in a museum. Excellent condition 

Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk. There is a built in silk covered elastic that is attached and wired right between the breast for a slight bit of support and then that wraps around you and hooks to close. It closes with a side set zipper and has an inner waist stay that hooks to close. There is a series of snaps above the zipper that run under the arm seam. Each sleeve zips to close at the wrist. The exterior layer of the skirt closes with its own a hand set side zipper. The silk ribbon belt is tacked into place on either side of the waist. On the interior of the skirt at the inner waist the fabric has been folded down and it looks like it would be possible to lengthen the skirt from there by just about 4". It looks to have been worn very little if at all.

Sleeves: 20" from where they start off the shoulder 
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of bodice to slightly dropped seam at the waist
Skirt: 38" from the slightly dropped seam at the waist to the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3598

Reference Photos: (1) Fall 1990 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway Collection.  /  (2-3) From the book "Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: L'oeuvre Integral 1962-2002"

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Norman Hartnell was a British Couturier who is known for his long relationship dressing Queen Elizabeth dressed the royals and the aristocrats. Hartnell opened his couture house in 1923 and by 1947 his house was thriving. Besides his appointment as a dressmaker for the Royal Family he also had a loyal following with Hollywood starlets and socialites. The dress is of particular note as it is from the same collection as the one made for Queen Elizabeth. The Queen originally wore her version in 1961, 1962 and then again in 1966 with a revised hem. It was then lent to Princess Beatrice by the Queen to wear as her wedding dress where it was altered yet again. You can see in the original photo of the dress from 1961 that the skirt shape and volume are the same. There is also similarities in the way that the crystals on the dress are laid out on the bodice and upper skirt. It is an absolutely stunning example of his work and one of the best dresses by him that I have seen.

Norman Hartnell was known for his evening wear. The best of his work incorporate lavish embroidery and intricate details like this one has. The dress is made out of a black silk taffeta and has that distinctive skirt hem that it shares with the Queen's dress. The top is cut to skim over the bodice and has wide straps that gracefully curve up and over each shoulder. They can be worn higher up like a proper strap or to sit slightly off the shoulder to give just the suggestion of a capped sleeve feel. The  waist is seamed and I added a ribbon to give it a little more shape. Under that the skirt falls to the floor in a widening sweep of silk as it nears the hem. Several yards of silk are used just for the skirt. At the hem the silk is swept up and under to create that unusual full rounded hem. This technique gives the skirt extra volume. It also create this stunning movement once on the body. When you walk or move it floats and moves around you. It is incredible on. The dress is detailed with sharp and precise knife pleating around the waist that extend and then opens up and into the bodice and then does the same under the waistline down into the skirt. For the perfect bit of a glitzy finish there are hundreds of hand set crystal rhinestones scattered over the dress. They are each individually prong set and there are couple of different sizes so that they catch even the smallest bit of light. It makes you think of a sky full of stars. The dress is very beautiful. It is an extraordinary example of British Couture from this time period. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a black silk and closes with a back metal zipper. There is an additional hook & eye closure just inside the zipper area and an inner waist stay. All the inner seams are hand finished to couture standards. The inner skirt is silk and has a tulle finish to the bottom half. There is an additional layer of tulle in the inside of the outer skirt. Each prong set rhinestone has been hand placed and hand set. Hand finished throughout to couture standards

Bust: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15.5" from top of shoulder to waist
Skirt: approx 45" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3071

Reference Photo: (1-3) Queen Elizabeth in Norman Hartnell.  /  (4) Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture by Erin Leydon.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

There are hints of this dress from both the 1986 collection and in the 1988 collection. The original owner did buy it in the 1980s but I do not have the exact day. I tend to lean towards the earlier date for it but I have included reference photos from both the above mentioned collections. It is a stunning example of Valentino's work during this time period.

The dress is beautiful to see in person. It flows over the body from the more fitted bodice and the lightness of the silk allows it to move and float around you when you move. The bodice is a stunning example in shaping and couture techniques. Inside it is boned and has built in cups. This interior structure holds it perfectly in place over the body once on. On the exterior the silk is hand set and gathered over the bust and all the way around you. Each individual gather is meticulously hand stitched into place. Above this more structured part of the dress is a single layer of the chiffon. At the front it scoops in a higher set neck and at the back it is set with a keyhole running down to the top of the gathered bodice. The skirt flows out under that in four layers of the silk and each layer is bias cut. This is what allows it to have such beautiful movement when you move. The final touch are those pretty sleeves that are cuffed at the wrist and pouf out around the arm above that. It also has its original very large silk shawl piece. It is beautiful. The dress does have some flaws but is structurally sound. Please review the notes below.

The interior bodice is finished is boned and corseted. The skirt has four layers of silk as described above. The interior corset closes with hook and eye and the silk layer zips to close over. Each cuff buttons with two silk covered buttons and loops. Three buttons at the top of the back neck. There are areas of fading through the skirt that go through the layers. I have photoed the worst of them. There are some faint areas of the same on the silk above the corset and on the sleeves. I see one tiny repair near the hem at the back of the skirt. It comes. I think you could potentially remove the sleeves and upper bodice and use the shawl to create a layer over the worst of the fading or just have it redyed and it would be perfect again. Sold as found and final and the price is according to the description above

Sleeves: 25"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 16.5" from top of neck to interior waist stay
Skirt: 45" from interior waist stay to hem
Shawl: 54" x 52"

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD3018

Reference Photos: (1) From the book "A Grand Italian Epic, Valentino", 1988/1989 collection  /  (2-3) The "Degradè" Dress from the Valentino Haute Couture 1986 collection. (4) Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon taken on location at JohnMel Stables 

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Guy Laroche began working for Jean Desses in 1949 and eventually launched his own Haute Couture label in 1957 as a full member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Parisienne.  He became known for his color sense and the young, sexy look of his clothes. In 1985 he won the Haute Couture Golden Thimble award and two years later he was awarded the insignia of Chevalier de L’Ordre de la Legion d’Honneur. His second Golden Thimble was given posthumously after his death in 1989. This dress is original Laroche and it is a beautiful example of the work he was doing in Couture. Laroche once was quoted as saying “It is my intention to try and adapt haute couture to modern requirements: to make dresses that are simple and chic.”

This is a spectacular example of his work and a simply beautiful dress in its own right. It was lent to Hannah Bronfman and I love that you can see just how gorgeous it is on her. It is also the actual runway sample and has a written tag identifying it as such. Carla is also written on it and I suspect that it may have been Carla Bruni who wore this one as she often modeled for him. I hope one day to find its runway photo and will send it to the new owner when I do.

This is a dress that makes you draw in your breath the first time that you see it. The dress is made out of a very fine silk chiffon that is printed with a stunning floral print in a colour that lies partway between a red and a pink. The dress is strapless and the bodice is covered with hand draped silk that is gathered in towards the center and secured with a little silk piping in the same fabric. The dress falls to the floor from there and the fabric that makes up the front part of the dress is incredible. It is the same silk as the back and bodice but is has been gathered and hand sewn onto a puffed fabric. This gives it this incredible texture. The print is the exact same but has a completely different look when it is gathered like that. There is this incredible contrast between the gathered silk and the silk that is not treated in this manner. The puffed fabric has beautiful movement and drape. It falls softly over the inner lining and moves with you when you move. The back of the dress is finished in an almost cape like detail and it is spectacular. It falls outwards from the top edge and he attached it down the sides so that it still billows out behind you when you move but falls in a stunning column when you stand still. There are two very long panels of fabric that run down on either side of the zipper at the back. These are attached along the top and are extended from the front bodice. You can use them to style the dress several different ways. I have photoed a few that I came up with and you could probably come up with even more. I love that it gives you options and extends the wearability of the dress. There are endless couture level details put into this one and the workmanship throughout is perfectly and meticulously done. It is an amazing example of the fine workmanship and attention to detail of Haute Couture and it is a true piece of fashion history. Excellent condition with one minor note below

The dress is fully lined in an ivory silk. There is a full built in and boned corset in the bodice. This is the original runway sample and it has its hand written and numbered tag present. Hand finished to couture standard throughout. It closes with a hand set, back zipper. I see a tiny bit of wear the silk at the edge of the top of the zipper. Please see the photo after the label shot

Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam with a A-B cup
Inner waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 54" from top of bodice to front hem, 58" to the back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item#cDD4099

Reference Photos: Hannah Bronfman in this 1982 Guy Laroche styled by Sarah Slutsky.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Marc Vaughan is one of the lesser know Couturiers that launched his label in 1953 and then re-named it in his own name the year after. He began solely as a couturier and in 1957 expanded to offer a pret-a-porter line. He concentrated on the European market in the early days only expanding into America in 1963 where his work was sold in New York through the Hattie Carnegie House. In 1966, the year that this set is from he 'used and grouped together the cubes, the pyramids, the squares, the rectangles, the obelisks ... He created there his most authentic creation based on angular forms inspired by the eye of a geometer.' This is also the collection where he showcased his cubic pants, pants that are seamed like these are so that they fall in a more square shape around the leg. We found a photo of a similar pant to this one and we were also able to find one reference photo of a similar set to this. I like this one with its stark silver contrast even better. It is just exceptional and you will never see another.

This is a fabulous set that is truly something you will only ever find in vintage. It showcases perfectly that mod feeling of the mid-sixties while also representing the extravagances of couture during this time period. The set is two pieces, a metallic silver pant and a tunic with open sides. The tunic is a masterpiece and I love the fabric. It combined and embroidered black and silver thread on a white silk organza. Each of those black and silver designs that you see are individually added to the base and have a 3D feel to them as they sit on the fabric. Big silver flowers are added over the tunic and each is secured in place by more of the silver thread. It runs straight down and over the body at the front and the back and then the two sides are attached with four wide bands of silver lame. It is open down the sides between the bands. The tunic is just long enough that you could wear it as a dress if you dared which adds another element to its wearability. You could also layer it over other things to get more looks. This tops a pair of silver lame pants and the fabric is an early version of it. It is more like fabric that has been coated with silver then the lame we are more used to now. These are cut with that amazing seaming that lets them sit in a box shape around the outer leg. They are simple in cut with a high waist and flat front. It is quite genius and a gorgeous set that illustrates the leaps and bounds that couture was taking during this time period. Excellent condition with minor notes below.

The top is lined in a silk organza and the pants are lined in a lingerie weight netting. The tunic closes with a back zipper and the pants also zip to close. There is some minor wear on the pants. I see slight rubbing of the silver in the edges of the waistband and there is minor discoloration to the inner lining. The inside lining of the tunic shows some grubbiness and the edges of the silver have the same very minor rubbing here and there. It presents perfectly when on.

Tunic
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 28" from top of shoulder to hem

Pants
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 39.75" from top of bodice to waist
Inseam: 29.5" from waist to hem
Gusset: 13.5"

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS

Item# DD4093

Reference Photo: Model wearing Marc Vaughan Couture, 1966.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Marie-Louise Carven, who founded her label in 1945, was one of the few female couturiers in the post-Chanel/Schiaparelli days of the Parisian designers. Her work was exquisite and she was a brilliant marketer, launching perfumes and a ready-to-wear line in 1950, something that couturiers still were not doing to a great degree at that time. She was known as being one of the great couturiers of the 'Golden Age' of Haute Couture and her designs became know for being so perfectly French and representing the spirit of Paris. She specialized in making dresses for a more petite sized woman. She was only 5'1" tall and found that there were often no options for herself so she decided to fill that gap saying that the other couturiers had no time for smaller stature women. Green was an integral colour for the house. Her atelier was green and white and her perfumes came wrapped in green and white striped paper. This dress is a stunning and very rare example of her work during this time period and encapsulates all that she meant to achieve with her work.

The dress is made to the typical fashion of her work in this time period. She loved to add collars and trims and often used organdy and linen that were cut out and embroidered. This dress has all of those and it is tremendously beautiful. The workmanship on this dress is amazing. The body of the dress is made from a pale green organdy that has been embroidered around the edges and on each individual piece of the pattern as well. It has open cut outs between the green parts so that you can see the pale ivory silk organza lining underneath. The effect of this layering is wonderful. It gives the pattern even more depth and texture then it would have with just the embroidery work. It is also slightly transparent which adds to its feeling of airiness and lightness. The bodice is cut to skim over you and the waist is seamed and set slightly high. I have added a ribbon to some of the photos and you can wear it with or without a belt for more shape. The skirt widens out as is nears the floor and is cut slightly longer in the back for a pretty sweep of skirts behind you. The neckline is finished with an elaborate silk organza ruffle. The ruffle is made of four layers and each layer is edged with a silk ribbon finish. It can be worn on or off the shoulder. I prefer it off the shoulder so that you get that bare expanse of skin. The hem is finished with the same ruffle technique and this cleverly weights the skirt so that is fall perfectly and also gives it this beautiful little kick with you move. It is an extraordinary and rare piece of Haute Couture and it is fabulous. This is an amazing piece of fashion history and it is a simply beautiful dress. Present as excellent condition with some small things to note below

Fully lined in the ivory silk organza and zips to close at the back. It is in overall great condition and at first glance looks perfect. There are some tiny flaws that I think are inevitable with this type of fabric. There are some well dome repairs here and there to the inner lining that do not show from the exterior. Some tiny areas of darkening here an there to the ruffles. There are some small stress tears around the armholes. I photoed these. Here and there the connecting bridge to another pattern piece has come apart and there is maybe a couple of tiny tears on the fabric here and there. Please see the photos after the label shot. It is completely wearable as it is now. The ribbon tie belt is not original to the dress but will be sent with it. It is slim through the hips

Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 14" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 39" from waist to front hem, 43" to the back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4074

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

At the age of 31, Stephane Rolland took over as Artistic Director for the Jean Louis Scherrer Haute Couture atelier, making him the youngest of the 20 official couturiers at the time. That was in 1997 and he remained as the head of the Couture division until the last showing in 2005 when the house officials shuttered is couture business altogether. This dress is from the Fall 2001 Haute Couture presentation and it is the actual runway sample that was worn on the runway. It was Look 7 In the presentation that day. I have included several runway reference photos for you so that you can see just how spectacular the dress is once on an actual body. In addition this dress was lent and worn by Alexandra Daddario and we have induded those shots here as well so you can see just how fabulous this is on an actual body. This also adds to its provenance and I love that,

Having the actual Haute Couture runway sample is just that much more amazing even in the land of Couture. Having the sample means that the dress is still completely made by hand to Couture standards but has the added touch of all those last minute adjustments that would have been done  by Stephane and the atelier to perfectly fit the model to walk the runway that day. This is an amazing opportunity to see what few see; a dress straight from the atelier, overseen and fitted by the couturier himself for its debut on the runway. The dress is covered with various sized panels of a red silk gazaar. These have been hand set to overlap as they cascade down the length of the dress. The panel size gradually become larger as they run down the dress to the train at the back. By layering the panels the dress has a sense of depth and texture then even the photos can truly convey. It also adds a subtle movement when you move. Each panel is secured to the base fabric just along its edges so that there is a movement and lightness created when it is on and you move about. The bodice is strapless and the panels are set slightly more towards one side so that they form a bit of peak there. The inner part of the dress is cut to above the knee so that you get a long flash of leg at the front. The rest of the dress flows back and around you from there. At the back the train is long and dramatic. The interior is corseted and structured so that it firmly holds the dress on the body and gives you shape. This is an incredible piece of modern Haute Couture. Excellent condition with one small note to review below.

Fully lined in a fine red silk and closes with two zippers. One is on the interior corset and the second is on the outer layer of the dress. The interior corset is boned and shaped. The skirt is lined in a red silk taffeta. Done with Haute Couture construction techniques. The hand written runway sample tag is present. There is some deepening of the colour/ marks on some of the squares of silk that make up the train and some minor grubbiness from being worn for the runway and then stored. The inner zipper pull is missing and has been replaced by a ribbon. Nothing that detracts once the dress is on. It is closest to a true zero

Bust: 15-15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 11.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner dress length: 26" from top of bodice to hem NOT including panels that go over the edge of the dress a bit above and blow the actual inner structure
Length including train to the very longest point:  Approx 92" from top of bodice to final tip of the train

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS

Item# DD3054

Reference Photos: (1-4) Fall 2001 Jean Louis Scherrer Haute Couture Runway Show.  /  (5-8) Alexandra Daddario photographed by Storm Santos.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Madame Gres' work has had profound effects on Haute Couture and her influence still resonates to this day. Her attention to detail, master draping techniques and respect for the female form is unparalleled. She was known for designing and creating garments directly on her models and this became a signature of her work. She opened her first atelier, La Maison Alix in 1932. A partnership briefly changed the house's name to Alix Barton and then the label went to simply Alix. In 1942 she married, and the label made its last change to became Madame Gres, which was a partial anagram of Serge, her husband's first name. Her work spans over five full decades with the vast majority of it, with the exception of a short-lived RTW line begun in 1980, dedicated solely to creating Haute Couture. She is one of the greatest couturiers of our time and her pieces are very rare and hard to find. This dress from her Spring 1966 Haute Couture collection is exceptional and also very sexy.

In the book 'Madame Gres' there is a section that talks about the direction of each collection. In the notes for Spring 1966 it notes that 'A reflection on the notion of the 'sexy' garment led Madame Gres to modify the very structure of her draped dresses by creating triangular cut-outs on their bodices, thus revealing the body between the folds. This play on a eroticism characterized the technique of a 'later' drapery in the fashion designer's business, from 1966 to go to 1988.' or in other words, it was the beginning of a new direction in the work that she was doing. The owner also provided a photo of the twin of this dress from L'officiel that season, making it a rare documented piece from this time period for her work. Whenever you have a dress that is photoed and a part of a key change in direction for a designer it makes it a piece of note. The fact that it is spectacular is just a happy bonus. It is truly a dress that makes you gasp out loud when you see it just because of how amazing it is. I was so pleased to have the reference photo so you can see just how fabulous it is on the body.

The dress itself is spectacular. It weight ounces. It is made out of a printed silk chiffon organza that has a touch of transparency to it. She meant it to have this effect so that you get a glimpse of the body underneath, but at the same time the dress is layered in places to give you some coverage. The colours mix deep reds, coral and yellows in curving swirls over the silk. The bodice is scooped and skims over you curving down into a point at the waist to meet the skirt. At the back it has an almost racer back feel with a curved cut out design that also curves down to meet the skirt and leaves the sides of your back bare. The waist is left exposed on both sides and I love how all of the edges are set on curves meant to flatter and shape the body. The skirt is suspended from just those two tiny points and yet sits perfectly on the body. It is genius really. At the front it falls in a column of silk that gently widens out as it nears the hem. At the back there is a high slit up the center but she has added a panel that falls over the center of the skirt to hide this. It's sexuality but in a very subtle way. This also gives the dress an extra bit of movement that it would not have otherwise. Inside there is a built in bottom that gives you coverage to off set the slight see-through quality of the dress. It is a piece that is literally meant to be worn on its own with nothing else underneath. There is not a single zipper to be found on the dress. It closes with hidden set hook & eye and snaps. The proper Haute Couture label is present and it is made by hand. It is a remarkable and rare piece of fashion history. Excellent condition

Unlined through most of the dress with a built in bottom. The back of the front bodice is lined with a nude silk and I suspect that this was added later by the owner as it looks to be done by a combination of machine and hand work whereas the rest of the dress is all done by hand. There is elastic looped through the edges of the bottom and it closes with a hook & eye on the top of one shoulder, at one edge of the top at the side and then along a curving seam at the waist. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. It is fantastic.

Top seam of skirt: 15" flat across from seams to seam and the side edge of that sits at approx 19-20" down from the shoulder
Skirt hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16.5" from top of shoulder to where it meets the skirt at the front
Skirt: 40.5" from center point of the waist to hem
Inner Bottoms hips: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner bottom gusset:

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS

Item# DD4021

Reference Photo: Model wearing Madame Gres for L'Officiel, Spring 1966. Photo by Dominique Laporte.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Guy Laroche began working for Jean Desses in 1949 and eventually launches his own Haute Couture label in 1957 as a full member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Parisienne.  He became known for his color sense and the young, sexy look of his clothes. In 1985 he won the Haute Couture Golden Thimble award and two years later he was awarded the insignia of Chevalier de L’Ordre de la Legion d’Honneur. His second Golden Thimble was given posthumously after his death in 1989. Michel Klein took over the couture division where he remained until 1996. This dress is from Klein's tenure as the Haute Couture director and label and it is a beautiful example of the work he was doing during his tenure there. Laroche once was quoted as saying “It is my intention to try and adapt haute couture to modern requirements: to make dresses that are simple and chic.” and I feel that this dress tries to live up to that thought while still maintaining the feel of couture during this mid-nineties.

This is the type of piece that is so bold and edgy that you will only ever find it in a Haute Couture piece. I feel like whoever ordered this one had it tweaked slightly from the runway presentation and made it better. The bodice is scooped across on a more graceful line (I don't love how it fits Kirsty Hume who is the model in the photo) and the back skirt feels longer. They also eliminated the bow at the front, opting instead for a single long panel falling at the back that matches the colour and fabric of the skirt. These small details add up to a big difference in how it presents. I also feel that the fit overall is far better then how it appears on the runway. It makes me wonder if there was a last minute substitution of the model for this piece, because in person the dress that I have here is a far better cut and fit overall then how it looks like in the runway shot. The dress is a mini dress that has an attached long panel on the skirt that wraps part way around you to leave the full front open under the mini skirt. The bodice is scooped wide and low at the front and made from a pale taupe silk. It extends down past the waist so a very short mini skirt that has a slight flare to it as it reaches the hem. The long skirt wraps around and is attached at the side of the waist. It is a soft olive toned green and done on that same rich heavy silk that has a slight satin finish. It falls to the floor in a long smooth drape of fabric. A wide silk cummerbund wraps around the waist to give shape. This narrows down at one end and hooks into place under a long swooping gold brooch which I believe is gold plated. The cummerbund has a long panel attached at the back and I have left it hanging as an extra panel. You could probably be clever and wrap /tie it to create a bow effect if you wished to emulate the runway photo more. The darkness of the sash around the waist is then picked up by the spectacular sleeves. Each is made out of a deep blue-black silk chiffon and are cut extra long. They are also cut wide and full to fall at an angle at the end of each sleeve. This bit of softness and transparency the sleeves have contrast sharply to the rich silk the rest of the dress is made from. It is a very unusual dress and shows the experimental side of couture. This is one of those dresses that when the right person wears it, it is going to blow people away. Excellent condition with a minor note below.

Fully lined in hand set silk that matches the colour of the exterior silk that is being lined. The sleeves are unlined. The dress closes with a hand set hidden back zipper and then there is another zipper that closes the inner mini skirt. The sash at the waist wraps and hooks into place. The brooch is detachable and shows sight patina on the gold. Proper couture label present. The dress is entirely made by hand to Haute Couture standards. The inner silk of the long skirt is scuffed near the hem and I see slight grubbiness along the hem on parts. Please see the shot after the label photo.

Sleeves: 34" to the longest point
Inset shoulders: 12"
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Mini dress length: 31" from top of shoulder to hem
Full Length: 60" from shoulder to longest point of the hem
Waist sash: 26.5" in length to where the hooks presently sit with an extension past that that wraps and hooks into place

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4012

Reference Photo: Fall 1994 Guy Laroche Haute Couture Runway Collection on Kirsty Hume.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

When dating this great little Couture Yves Saint Laurent we noticed that the fabric is a variation of pieces for the Fall 1994 show and that also fits the style and feel of the dress. I also dived into my folio collection book and there were pieces in that collection that used this same fabric as evidenced by the swatch. I have included these reference photos for you hear so that you can share that bit of detective work with me. The dress is gorgeous and in person the fabric seems to have an inner glow. It really is a beautiful piece and owning a piece of his couture work is really one of the ultimate vintage acquisitions.

The dress is amazing and a classic Yves Saint Laurent cut and silhouette. It is made entirely by hand and the silk is of the highest possible grade. It feels stupendous on. The top is cut to skim over you and blouse over the waist. The shoulder have light padding just at their outer edges to slightly extend them outward. The shoulders are set into the bodice with gathers so that they slightly pouf above the shoulder line. The sleeves are full and voluminous above their ruffled cuffs. It does up along the neckline to one side and buttons to close. The buttons are hidden under a flap of silk and the fabric is matched on the side it buttons to. The neckline is high and there is a long attached scarf that wraps around your neck. It is set so that one side is longer then the other so that when you tie it is sits properly. Each end of the scarf ends with a two color silk fringe that I love. The waist is finished with elastic so it is incredibly easy to wear. You can add a belt over it if you wanted a really cinched in look. The skirt falls under that in a simple pencil to just about the knee or above depending on your height. There ore hidden set pockets along each hip. The colour of the silk is the best thing about the dress. It is a mix of a bright pink fuchsia and a deep purple with the pink acting as a design that runs over the entire dress. It is truly a brilliant dress and when you see it in person you will fall in love with how good it is in person. And it is just so good on the body. A masterpiece. Excellent condition with a note below.

Unlined with hand finished inner seams. It slips over the head to wear with elastic at the waist and hidden set buttons at the neck as described and shown. Each cuff buttons to close. Completely made by hand. Proper Haute Couture numbered label present. Once of the buttons on the cuff has chipped and I see one small repair under the arm near the seam and a teeny on on the back of one shoulder Please see the two photos after the label shot.

Sleeves: 25" but will pouf up
Slightly inset shoulders: 13"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16" from top of bodice to waist but mean to blouse a bit
Skirt: 20.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3996

Reference Photos: (1-2) Fall 1994 Yves Saint Laurent Couture Runway. / (3) From the book YVES SAINT LAURENT. Haute Couture. L'OEUVRE INTÉGRAL 1962-2002.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This stunning set is from the Fall 1984 Haute Couture collection and its twin was photoed that season as well. Who knows this might be the actual set! I have included that reference photo here for you so that you can see how amazing it is on the body. I love how they pushed the sleeves up for the shots which gives it a totally different feel. Ungaro launched his label in 1965 after working for both Balenciaga and Courrreges. He was a brilliant designer who was known for his of extravagant fabrics and flamboyance. His Haute Couture pieces are not easy to find and this set is fantastic.

Both of the pieces that make up this set are stand outs and can be worn together as intended or you can mix and match them with pieces you already have to really extend their wearabilty. The inner dress is amazing. It is cut in that signature Ungaro silhouette for this time period. These little fitted dresses were meant to hug and highlight every curve of the body. The dress is made out of a silver silk velvet that has a metallic silver and gold foil worked through the velvet. This gives is a subtle shimmer and allows it to catch the light from every angle. The fabric is hand draped over the entire dress to give it an incredible texture. The bodice has a highly modified sweetheart shape with one side set at a high peak and the other in a soft curve. The gathers are shaped to follow the line of the bust and emphasize the breasts. On the side that it zippers to close there is a pretty strip of hand applied beads and sequins that run down that side of the dress for extra detailing. Over this is the jacket. The jacket is made from an ivory lace that is backed with a silk. Onto the lace is a mix of embroidery work, little silk applique, rhinestones and faux pearls. The shoulders are padded and the top of the sleeve is gathered around the shoulder for a bit of a high capped feel. The sleeves narrow in a touch from there as they reach their ends. The waist is brought in and shaped with vertical seaming and then the hips flare out. There are no closures on the jacket, it is meant to just slip on and sit over the dress. It is finished with a dramatic Ostrich feather border that that wraps around the neck, down the front and all the way around the hem. It is completely made by hand and the proper Haute Couture numbered tape is present. Excellent condition

The dress is hand lined in a ivory silk and closes with a hand set side zipper. The bodice is boned. Interior waist stay hooks to close. The jacket has no closures. Padding in each shoulder. I see minor marks on the interior lining of the dress and perhaps a slight grubbiness to the inner arms of the jacket. Please see the last photo after the label shot.

Dress
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 9" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 25" from waist to hem

Jacket
Sleeves: 23"
Slightly extended shoulders: 16"
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: approx 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: approx 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 32" from neck to hem, including the feathers

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3367

Reference Photo: Fall 1984 Emanuel Ungaro Haute Couture. (via @only_french_couture)

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Bill Gibb was crowned Designer of the Year in 1970. He was one of the most influential designers in 1970s Britain and his clothes were worn by the rich and famous. His work has a high fantasy element to it that I love. Much of his work verged on couture and he was unrelenting in striving for perfection. This dress is from his 1976 collection and version from that same collection with similar elements use for it was photoed on Tina Chow for Vogue that season. His pieces were never produced in large quantities and this one is exceptional. It is wonderful to have such a gorgeous example of his work in the shop.

This amazing set is actually two separate pieces which is lovely as you can mix and match them with pieces you already own to extend their wear. The top piece is this fantastic evening coat that is pure drama. It is made out of a pale pink silk netting with a built in inner bodice piece that is made out of pale pink silk. This sits over a full length skirt that is made out of a fine silk chiffon with a soft pink silk lining. The top layer of silk on the skirt is knife pleated all the way around. This gives is some volume and movement when you walk. Around the hem are three stripes of silk satin ribbon in a pale blue, a pink and a mint green. This same ribbon detail is also used to edge the inner silk of the jacket. The effect of seeing the stripes on the skirt and the top through the netting of the jacket is stunning. The inner top also has the same knife pleat finish so that it feels like one ling piece under the netting once on the body. The very top layer that floats over everything is a silk netting that has been hand embroidered with a flowers and vines design. The design has done with a soft pastel thread that has a metallic silver running through it. This covers the entire outer later and gets denser as it reaches the hem. The thread itself is the same colour combination as the ribbons on the skirt and under the top but with that metallic finish. The final effect is incredibly beautiful and romantic. The edges of the jacket are finished with silver cording and there is a long tie of silver cording at the neck. The sleeves are incredible. They are cut extra long and each has an inner knife pleated inset made out of a pale pink silk chiffon. They pouf out from the shoulder and are caught up just below the elbow. On an actual arm they are meant to sit up on the arm where they are brought in so that they netting above is very full. Below that the lower sleeve is cut to flare out and widen as it reaches the end of the sleeve. Each sleeve has the same hand embroidery detailing as the body of the jacket. Long silver cords hang down from the seam at the elbow.

No matter how much you might love the photos this one is even better in person. The workmanship in it has to be seen in real life to be fully appreciated. It is a beautiful and glamorous dress that is red carpet worthy and would make an amazing wedding dress for the bride looking for a non-traditional choice or as an alternative dress in a more extended wedding celebration. And of course it could also be worn to any big event. Excellent condition

Both piece are fully lined in a pale pink silk as described above. The skirt closes with a metal and nylon zipper. The top slips on to wear with snaps and hook and eye at the very top of the neck. The colours in person are softer and bit more pink feeling in person. There is some light fading to one side of the skirt near the closure but its very minor. 

Skirt
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips at inner lining: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 44" from waist seam to hem

Top/Overlay
Sleeves: approx 31"
Shoulder opening: approx 17"
Bust: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist- hips: open
Length: 25" from top of shoulder to hem of inner top, 58" from shoulder to the full length hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3081

Reference Photos: (1-2) Tina Chow in an ensemble by Bill Gibb. Photographed by David Bailey for British Vogue, April 1976.  /  (3-4) Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Madame Gres' work has had profound effects on Haute Couture and her influence still resonates to this day. Her attention to detail, master draping techniques and respect for the female form is unparalleled. She was known for designing and creating garments directly on her models and this became a signature of her work. She opened her first atelier, La Maison Alix in 1932. A partnership briefly changed the house's name to Alix Barton and then the label went to simply Alix. In 1942 she married, and the label made its last change to became Madame Gres, which was a partial anagram of Serge, her husband's first name. Her work spans over five full decades with the vast majority of it, with the exception of a short-lived RTW line begun in 1980, dedicated solely to creating Haute Couture. She is one of the greatest couturiers of our time and her pieces are very rare and hard to find. This one is exceptional

I have dated this dress based on information from my client and on a variation of this dress held in the collection of the Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco. I have included a reference photo of that dress and you can see the similarity in cut and fabric. The collection notes on the museum held dress even mention a matching cape. This 1970s period is about the time period where she turned her attention from using primarily jerseys to incorporating more taffeta and silks into her work. That and the fact that the Museum dress also has a matching cape feels too coincidental for it not to be from that same collection. It is also interesting to note that the Museum held dress has been exhibited twice. Once for the "New Look to Now", at de Young Museum, 1989-91; and it was lent to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, for "Mme. Gres" in 1994. 

Both pieces are made from a fine silk taffeta dyed to a deep green colour. This fabric choice keeps the weight of the dress down despite its volume and the fabric also holds the intended shape beautifully. The bodice has no sleeves and is cut so that the shoulders slightly extend off the shoulder with this subtle little curved line. The bodice skims over the body in a long column to the dropped seam at the top of the hip. There is actually an inner skirt under the full top skirt that falls right to the floor with a high side slit up one side that allows you to be able to walk in it. This also gives a very unexpected flash of leg when you move or sit in the dress. The top skirt is pure drama. It is cut on a curve that comes up at the front and then swoops down to the floor and falls behind you at the back for a slight trained feel. That curving line is almost sculptural and gives the dress a different feel from every angle that you see it from. The outer skirt is set to fall away from the body with lots of volume and shape but the fabric is so light that you also get movement and a floating feel when you move. This was achieved by gathering the taffeta into soft pleats all along the curved seam there. Underneath the skirt there is a second shorter ruffled peplum layer that supports the fabric and holds the shape. Over this is a matching silk taffeta cape that is almost monastic in its simple lines. It simply hooks into place at the neck with one tiny hook and then falls beautifully over the shoulders. The cape flows and extends down the back mimicking the curved line of the skirt. At the front it hits right where the skirt begins and this is a clever way to extend the eye downwards. It is cut so that it falls in soft rounded folds that pick up the soft pleats of the skirt below it and ties everything together beautifully.  It is magnificent. Both pieces are completely made by hand. The proper Madame Gres Haute Couture label is present. This is an exceptional gown. I love it. This is a rare opportunity to own an original Haute Couture Madame Gres. It is an extraordinary thing to see in real life. Excellent condition with a minor note below.

Both pieces are unlined with hand done couture seams throughout. The dress closes with a off-set back zipper that is camouflaged along a vertical seam. It then closes along the top of one shoulder with a series of hooks and snaps. The cape has one single hook & eye to close. Inner peplum that supports the skirt as described above. I see some very tiny marks on the bodice. Please see the photos after the label shot. There is a very faint perfume smell on the dress from a fitting for a potential award show. I did not want to clean it again as its extremely faint and not an issue. The dress should fit a range of sizes since it is not meant to be very fitted.

Dress
Bust: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips at dropped seam: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 23" from neck to dropped seam where over skirt begins
Inner skirt: 37" from dropped seam where over skirt begins to hem
Total Length: 60" from neck to hem of inner dress, 67" to longest point of the back of the trained top skirt 
Slit: 20" from the hem up

Cape: will fit any size and falls to 30" a its longest point at the back

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3227

Reference Photos: 1977 Madame Gres Dress from the Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco.  /  Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture.

This garment has been professionally steamed and sold in, clean, as found condition. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is from my same client whose aunt purchased from Ady Couture who I explained in depth in this listing while she was living in Switzerland during the eighties and into the nineties. Prior to that, during the late sixties and into the early 80s her aunt lived in both France and Brussels where she purchased pieces from Louis Mies. Mies was a small independent couturier who did custom work for his clients to couture standards. He designed many piece for the Queen of Belgium and like Ady, he had permission from several of the Haute Couture ateliers to produce their Haute Couture pieces using the patterns and buying the fabric directly from them. I have some new information that he might have sold actual couture pieces through his salon as well. I was not able to find any exact references for this one. It does bear a striking similarity to the 1977 Valentino couture collection pieces and I have included some if those iconic photographs here. Most likely this would have been one of Mies own couture designs. It is absolutely unbelievable in person and one of my favourite personal pieces from her estate so far. 

The level that this dress is made to is a beautiful thing to see. All of the finishes have been done by hand and it has all those lovely details that you expect in a couture level garment. It is made out of a fine black silk taffeta and then parts of the design are edged in a beautiful black Chantilly lace. These fabric choices help it to hold its intended shape and give it the lovely volume that you see. The dress has weight to it but it is not overwhelming once on the body. There are so many yards of fabric used in the construction of this gown that it is mind boggling. The neckline is cut wide across so that it sits off the shoulder. This leaves that bare expanse of skin showing that balances the volume of the dress below. It top is very elaborate. There is a six inch cape feeling ruffle that wraps all the way around your shoulders. This was then edged with a 3.5" band of that stunning handmade black lace. Under that the sleeves are set to peek out to give the illusion of a double cape detail but they are actually true sleeves. They are cut very wide and full and each is also edged in the lace to give the bodice a tiered effect on each side. The actual bodice skims loosely over you and there is a black velvet bow at the centre of the neckline. The waist comes in for shape and I added a grosgrain ribbon to pick up on the bow at the neck and define the waist more. The skirt is a masterpiece. It curves out from the waist and falls to the floor where it widens out even more as it nears the hem. It is made up of three full layers. Inside the skirt is a full built in black silk under-skirt that has wide bands of stiffened netting at the hem and part way up the skirt to help hold the volume. Little ruffles run along the seams of this lining where it is pieced together despite the fact that no one would ever see them. The next layer is an exterior one and it is also made of the black silk taffeta. It has two ruffled tiers at the hem, each of which is edged with the black lace. Where the tiers start near the bottom there is another built in band of netting inside to hold the volume on this layer as well. Then the top taffeta layer falls over those two layers. It is cut to end just above top tier of the middle layer. It curves up at the front to meet the seam at the waist and the lines this creates are gorgeous. The final result of all these tiers and layers is incredibly beautiful. The hours of work that it would have taken to implement the detailing on this dress is mind boggling. The dress is made to couture standards with all the inner seams finished by hand. I have included a shot of one of the inner seams for you to see. It is extraordinary and the kind of quality and beauty that you will only find with vintage. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition with one note below

Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk and constructed as described above. There is a built in black silk taffeta inner skirt. It closes with a painted metal zipper at the back. The inside is all hand done and it is finished to couture standards. There is a couple small repairs / tiny holes on the ruffle on the neckline. There is so much fabric they get lost in the folds. Please see the final shot after the label. It otherwise looks unworn 

Bust: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of natural shoulder to waist
Skirt: 43" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3882

Reference photos: Valentino campaign 1977 shot by Deborah Turbeville

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The woman behind the Maggy Rouff label was Maggy Besançon de Wagner and she started her label in 1928 after working at the Drecoll Haute Couture atelier. After only one season in business the Maggy Rouf label became an official member of the Chambre de commerce et d'industrie de Paris. The label continued to produce Haute Couture until 1965. Maggy developed a staunch following for her work and for her gowns in particular. One of the hallmarks of her designs was that each piece had a main focal point. Like the stunning back panel on this dress for example. Draping techniques, as we see around the hip area on this dress, where also a signature element of her work. This is a stunning dress and her Haute Couture examples are rare and becoming increasingly valuable. 

This dress has all the hallmarks of Haute Couture that you want from this era. It is entirely made by hand and the fabrics that were chosen to make it are exceptionally beautiful. Two different fabrics have been combined to make the dress that you see here. The main body of the dress is made from a rich, luxurious silk brocade made from a gold metallic thread woven through on a purple silk. This gives the dress an exotic, royal feel, and the fabric seems to glow from within as it catches the light from every angle. The thread is woven into the silk and not just applied onto it as a print. This gives it a slightly raised texture to it that is beautiful to touch and feel. Maggy chose a fine matte silk satin in a brilliant purple hue to use for the straps that curve up and over each shoulder and for that incredible inset panel at the back. The dress is cut to skim over you and curve in at the waist for shape. It is cut straight across at the neckline and has a panel in a contrasting pattern that is draped across the bust. The waist is curved in and there is a hand draped gathering that runs softly across the front at the hips. This balances out the panel at the bust and helps to highlight and show your curves in that perfect Hollywood starlet feel of this time period. The back is jaw dropping. The straps curve down to a low set back to leave lots of bare skin exposed. It is gathered in at the back waist to create shape. Inset at the low back is a sweeping train of the purple silk satin. This cascades to the floor ad opens and widens out as it nears the hem to create a trained back skirt. At the small of the back a flat bow in the same purple silk is the perfect finishing touch. Inside the dress there is a fully boned and structured bodice along with a waist stay to hold the dress perfectly in place. This dress is an incredible piece of mid-century Haute Couture. Excellent condition.

The inner bodice is boned and set into the inner purple silk lining. This inner bodice layer closes with its own series of snaps and hooks that run down and behind a painted metal zipper that closes the outermost layer of the dress. An inner waist stay hooks to close. The back train is lined in a stiffened netting to help hold the shape and the hem is finished in dressmakers tape. Inner silk lining. The dress is completely made by hand to the Haute Couture standards of the period and is done with remarkable construction technique. There is one tiny area on the inner lining's hem that has a touch of fading, that of course this is not something you would ever see when on. Perhaps the tiniest bit of grubbiness to the trains hem but I am being extremely picky.  Otherwise appears to have been worn very little if at all

Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5-14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 58" from top of shoulder to front hem, the train extends another 10" ato its longest point at the back

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3851

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is an incredible and rare piece of Dior's history in the fur market. During this time period there were select furriers that had permission to make the Haute Couture pieces and the maker of this coat, Canton Furs in Lausanne was one of those. This coat was made in 1984 and this time period was known as the 'Golden Age' for the Dior fur division. Frederic Castet was appointed the head of the division after joining Dior in 1953. He single handedly restructured the fourrure department to follow the haute couture and the prêt-à-porter philosophy of the house in 1968. He was one of the first to treat fur like fabric and would dye it, trim it, pluck it and create whimsical fantasy pieces that had never been see prior. By the 1980s he was doing extravagant presentations that only showcased his furs. These were held on the second floor of the Dior mansion on Avenue Montaigne. They were as wanted a ticket as the couture shows were and they were legendary in terms of the extravagant spectacles that he would put on to showcase his work. His work was worn by all the major stars from Sophia Loren to Elizabeth Taylor.

This coat was originally purchased for the sum of CHF 120’000, on 11.10.1984. That was about $93,000 USD at the time. I have a digital copy of the original insurance value paper done for the coat that is dated to december 13th 1984 that states its insurance value at FR. 200,000. If you want to talk modern dollars that is well over an astonishing $248,000USD. The insurance papers along with the information given to me by the family also gives us an amazing amount of detail on the coat. It is the Haute Couture model nr. 3007 that was named 'Dynastie'. The sable pelts that is is made out of are some of the rarest on the planet. It is made of a Russian sable, 87 Bargouzine quality skin, ’sauvage pointée’, color grade 3 with a matching belt. We found a very similar model that was photoed for the cover of L'Officiel that year. It is of special interest that during Gianfranco Ferre's tenure at the house he used these same sleeves as inspiration for a sable piece that he post on the runway for the Fall 1994 Haute Couture presentation. I have included both these reference photos for you here. 

The coat is in exceptional condition and appears to have been worn very little if at all. The style is very much like a men’s evening smoking jacket with how it wraps to close at the front. I love that feeling of the masculine contesting with the feminine in this piece. I have done a video for this piece that you can watch to get a really great idea of its suppleness and how it moves. It also shows more of the details on the coat. The sleeves are especially of interest. They are cut exceptionally wide and full and the pelts have been set horizontally to contrast against the vertical pelts on the body of the jacket. At their cuffs they are a full 24" around. Everything about the coat is exquisite and exceptionally made to the very last detail. Even the belt has a special hook that allows you to keep it perfectly in place once it is tied at the front. And if you want to wear the jacket without the belt tied you can hook the belt at the back as I’ve shown in the video so you never have to worry about losing it. For those of you that collect and wear vintage furs this is one of the most exceptional pieces you will ever come across and and it is set at an extraordinary price given its original value. It is truly a one-of-a-kind find. Excellent condition.

Fully lined in a brown silk with a second lining floating over that. It hooks to close at the front with fur hooks and the belt has it own hook as shown in the video. Silk lined pockets on each hip. The fir is exceptionally soft and supple. Because of the the tie front it should work on a variety of sizes. 

Sleeves: approx 24"
Shoulders: soft with no defined seams
Bust: to 22-23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist- hips: open and adjustable when tied
Length: 44" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG

Item# C593

Reference Photos: (1) Original Purchase Insurance Papers.  /  (2) Model in Christian Dior, Officiel de la fourrure, 1984.  /  (3) Fall 1994-95 Dior Haute Couture Runway.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I have a small collection of historically important, key designer labelled vintage furs and fur trimmed pieces stored away in my archives that I will be slowly posting on the site over the next couple of years until I have none left. I will no longer be buying furs for the shop moving forward and have not purchased anything for several years now. I feel like times have changed and while there still is a place for vintage furs for some, including collectors and historians, many modern girls are choosing other options. Many of the pieces in my collection are representative of the designer during a set time period in history that was different then our modern outlook. I have decided that the best course to handle this controversial issue is to let the pieces I have go rather then sit in a cold storage unit. Fur coats are final sale.

This is one the last of this batch of amazing pieces from my client whose aunt had most of her clothes made. This one, like several others already in the shop, was made by Ady Couture and the story behind this label is fascinating. Ady Couture was based out of Lausanne Switzerland. She would buy couture fabrics from the couture houses along with the patterns, and then with permission from the ateliers, would make copies of the pieces presented in the Haute Couture collections from those ateliers  When she was younger, and lived in Amsterdam, Ady would travel to attend the private viewing and purchase directly from the couture houses and built up strong relationships with them. My client believes that negotiating the arrangement to make things at her own atelier was a way to work around customs and that is what prompted Ady to negotiate this unusual arrangement with the various couture houses. In my hunt for more information I have been able to verify that they made permissible copies of the work of Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy, Lacroix and Ungaro. There may have been others but this are the houses I am confident on. Both the skirt and jacket in this set have been completely made by hand to Haute Couture standards. I am sure that this one is based off of a YSL suit as it has all the hallmarks of his work during this time period.

I love this more formal full length skirt and the fact that you can mix and match the pieces of this suit with other things already in your closet. The jacket is tailored with strong shaped and padded shoulders. It is box cut through the body and meant to be slightly over-sized in the way it sits through the shoulders. It has a belt that came with it and that is used to cinch in the waist and create shape. The collar is angled and strong. Large red buttons with a stripe of gold metal run down the front. More of these same buttons run down each cuff and all of the buttonholes on the sleeves are functional. Pockets are top set on the hips and a third pocket sits on the breast of the jacket. The color is a strong bright red and the fabric is ribbed which gives it a wonderful texture. The skirt is cut in a long column of a fine black wool that falls to the floor. There is a black, flat braided detailing that runs down each side to give the suit a subtle nod to a tuxedo. High slits run up each side of the leg so when you walk or sit you get a glimpse of leg. It is very striking and strong silhouette. And it is completely made to Haute Couture standards. Excellent condition with a small note below.

The skirt is hand lined in a black silk and the jacket is hand lined in a red silk. The jacket buttons to close down the front. The skirt has a zipper and hook & eye at the waist. Hand made padding in each shoulder. Couture finished inner seaming. I see a faint spot near the pocket of the jacket and the fabric behind the belt at the front shows faint rubbing. Please see the photos after the label shot. The skirt appears to have been worn very little if at all. Made to Haute Couture standards with a tremendous amount of detail put into its construction.

Jacket
Sleeves: 22"
Padded shoulders: 18"
Bust: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 25" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 41" from waist to hem
Slits: 19.5" from hem up

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD3721

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

One of the key elements of the spring 1973 collection was the snap closures that Courreges used. They played a two fold role in that they were a functional element that actually acted as closures and they where also a decorative design feature that helped to highlight his signature cuts. In the runway reference photo that I have included here, you can see the same snap detailing. This is a beautiful and rare example of his Haute Couture work from this time period that still feels fresh and wearable even now.

The suit is made from the classic wool that Courreges was using for his pieces during this time period. It has enough weight to hold the sharp angular lines of the suit but without adding bulk or making it feel too heavy to wear for our modern aesthetics. The colour is a beautiful deep blue that has been captured well in these photos. The wool has  a slight texture to it. The stitching and the snaps have all been dyed to match the colour of the suit. This lets you see the seaming and detail but in a way that gives you the full picture all at once. The jacket is beautifully cut. It is meant to skim over the body with just a touch of a boxy feel to it. The sleeves are capped and the shoulders are seamed but have no additional padding. The shape is all created by the cut and perfect tailoring techniques. To wear it you simply slip the jacket on and it snaps into place down the front. The top stitched seaming detail is done to follow the lines of the jacket and become their own design element. The skirt is spectacular. It is cut to be fitted around the waist and then is cut on an angle to the hem. I have photoed it flat for you as well as on the dress form so that you get a better feel for the shape. It has an unusual way to close. There are snaps that run down each side and you can fully unsnap it on both sides. The bottom two snaps at the hem are decorative so that you get a bit of a vent on either side but all the snaps above it open. This lets you open the sides up and leave the resulting slit as high up as you dare. It is an incredible example of his work. The exterior of the suit is in excellent condition and there is a note below regarding the lining

Both pieces are fully lined in a white silk and close with the snaps as described above. There is an area of fabric missing from the interior of the skirt. It is stable and does not effect the wearing of the suit. Tagged a vintage Courreges 00

Jacket
Shoulders: 12" across
Bust: 16.5" flat across the back from seam to seam
Waist: 14.5" flat across the back from seam to seam
Length: 18" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 12" flat across the back from seam to seam
Hips: 17" flat across the back from seam to seam
Length: 22.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing equivalent: XXS-XS

Item# DD1091

Reference photo: Andre Courreges Haute Couture Spring 1973

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival