It is so hard to find dates for Bob Mackie pieces because he often did create similar pieces over the years. So we were thrilled to be able to exactly date this stunning dress to the Fall 1989 show where its twin walked the runway. On the runway he styled it with a metal belt and I love that with a simple switch of what you choose to wear around the waist you can give the dress a different feel. Bob Mackie became a household name when he started dressing Cher. He started off his career freelancing for costumers Edith Head and Jean Louis and it was while there that he sketched the design for Marilyn Monroe's famous 'Happy Birthday, Mr. President' dress. He met fellow costume designer Ray Aghayan who eventually became his life partner. Together they designed costumes for Hollywood and created a made to order line of RTW. That led to his incredible journey in designing for stars like Cher and Diana Ross for many years and the launch of his own label. His work helped to define an entire era of high glamour on the small screen and beyond.

The dress is made out of a stunning ombre deep dusky pink and taupe silk chiffon. Then under the top layer of the silk is a second layer of silk chiffon that has these incredible gold and silver thread leafs worked through the silk. These shimmer through under the top layer and create a beautiful depth and unexpected glimmer when you move and as they catch the light. It is a combination that is stunning to see together. The bodice is strapless and it has an inner shaped corset that is boned and shaped for support and to stay perfectly in place. The top of the bodice is peaked at the sides and then it is slightly rounded as it dips down and into the center. Onto the bodice the silk chiffon has been gathered and softly draped so that it follows the curve of the bust and then slightly overlaps at the front. It does the same at the back where it meets at the center set zipper. The waist cinches in and the dress comes with its original matching silk sash that you can tie and style around the waist or the neck. The skirt flows out from under there and it is made up of yards and yards of feather light silk chiffon. There are two layers of the bias cut silk stacked on top of each other and then an inner silk layer that sits next to the body. The top two layers of chiffon are feather light and the movement they create as they float over each other as you move is just incredible. It is incredible to see in person and the colour has a touch softer feel to it then how it photoed. That little bit of added glamour and drama from the gold and silver under that top layer of chiffon elevates the dress that much more. It is truly one of the best dresses of his that I have seen. Excellent condition

The bodice of the dress is fully lined in a copper silk. The skirt has an inner copper layer of silk under the top tow layers of bias cut silk chiffon as described above. The bodice is shaped and and boned inside and has an inner waist stay that hooks to close. It closes with a back zipper. Hand finishes.

Bust: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam with room for at least a C cup at the front
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 12" from top of the tallest point of the bodice to waist
Skirt: 45" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4459

Reference Photos: Fall 1989 Bob Mackie Runway.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Every so often I am contacted by someone and entrusted with something very special and this wedding set by Romeo Gigli absolutely fits that bill. This incredible set is a one of a kind, Haute Couture made to measure piece that comes directly from its original owner and she has graciously given all of the original documentation on it to share with you along with a full write up on her experience with Romeo and a scan of the Elle article that was written a year after her wedding. 

Romeo Gigli launched his label first in 1981 which failed. In 1983 he partnered with Carla Sozzani and in 1985 he presented a 25 piece collection in Milan. By 1986 he was an international sensation and his collections made world wide headlines. In 1989 he had his Paris debut. His work was romantic but dramatic. Hallmarks included shawl coats, which this set so perfectly displays, along with soft sloping shoulders and silhouettes that narrow as they come down the body. Historical references run through his work and his de-structured lines felt fresh and new.

This set has all of the original pieces that Marion wore on her wedding day and even includes the original boxes and silk bags that the set was delivered in. Every piece was made in studio by hand and when I tell you that my photos do not do the full set justice I have never been more honest as everything is more beautiful in person. This is a once in a life time opportunity to own this incredible and important piece of fashion history. The link to Marion's story is below and a short description of the pieces follows. 

Click here to see the full photo set of Marion in the fittings with Romeo, on her wedding day, see the Elle editorial, and read Marion's story about the experience >

The wedding ensemble consists of a pale pink silk chiffon top, a gold lace hobble skirt and a deep gold silk jacket or top that was worn over those two pieces. An incredible silk chiffon coat that is filled with silk flowers and flows behind you in a knotted train was worn over that. The original pale taupe velvet shoes in their original box are present along with the hand made hair sticks and pins. The two original pink raw silk hand made bags that the skirt and tops were delivered in are included and the entire ensemble comes in its original raw silk covered box. The final piece included is the little hand held green silk bag that Marion carried that day.

The skirt and inner top are the base of the outfit. The top is slightly cropped and made from a pale dusty peach pink silk chiffon. The chiffon has been hand gathered into soft pleats and crosses itself over the front and back. It wraps around you and closes on one side, inside, with a series of silk covered buttons and then the other side wraps over that and closes at the back outside with buttons as well. The skirt is made out of fine gold lace and is banded around the waist for shape. It drapes softly over the body with volume through the hips created by the layers. It narrows down at the ankles for a touch of a hobble skirt in appearance with the ends curving up and under. It is an incredible design.

An oversized silk top goes over this that has a bit of volume through the body. It is made from a deep copper gold silk with a burnished finish. The sleeves are incredibly long and are meant to be gather along the arms and follow the cut and curve of them. The collar is very high and wired so that it stands and frames the face beautifully. One side is longer then the other and you can shape the wire to give it a quirky little curve in the direction and way that works best for you. I love the open cut out just under the collar. It hints at the silk chiffon top underneath and adds an unexpected flash of skin.

The coat is utterly remarkable. It is thoroughly Romeo Gigli in spirit and it is one of the most beautiful, magical things I have ever seen. It has those beautiful sloped  shoulders he was known for and the front flips over into a deep shawl collar. It slips on over everything else with no front closures. It just falls over you in this exceptional drape of chiffon and flowers and then trails out behind you. The end has been knotted and I love this detail as it is absolutely Gigli at his best. The coat is made from a silk chiffon outer and inner layer that has a touch of transparency to it while inside and between the layers are thousands of silk flowers. Each would have been placed by hand one by one to form a solid layer of flowers that shows through the silk. It has weight yet it feels weightless. It has presence yet it feels ethereal.  The top layer of the chiffon is a pale dusty pink and then the inner layer is a pale taupe. The flowers float between the two and it make this light rustling sound as it moves that it magical. It is one of the best things I have ever personally seen.

Finally are the accessories. Her original velvet shoes that slide on and then tie in place, the little green silk bag that is held by the tied straps and the various hand made hair and stick pins in their original box.

The entire set will be sent in it original box hand covered in a deep dusty pink raw silk as it came to Marion from the Gigli ateliers.

Everything is in superb condition. I see a teeny smudge of discoloration under the arms of the inner silk chiffon top and the wear to the soles of the shoes giving away the clue that it was worn that day. The silk on the large box it came in has more wear as seen in the photos

This is a once in a life time, absolutely remarkable piece of fashion history.

Inner top
Shoulders: no true seams
Bust: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 14" from top of shoulder to hem

Skirt
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 47" from waist to hem and including the 4" waist band

Outer top
Sleeves: 39" from the dropped shoulder seam and are around 11" arond after the dropped shoulder
Shoulders: 27" across and meant to drop significantly
Bust: 30" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 27" flat across from side seam to side seam and narrows to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam by the hem
Length: 41" from neck hem
Neck: 13" around

Coat
Is about 36" flat across the inner bust and it is about 120" long from the neck to end past the knot and not including the deep shawl collar. It is pretty much OSFA

Bag
Approx 9.5" tall and about 5-7" in diameter

Shoes
Approx a 40-41

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED for the inner outfit and the coat is OSFA

Item# DD4458

Reference Photos: Courtesy of Marion Hume. (1-2) Fitting with Romeo Gigli.  /  (3-7) On the wedding day.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Richard Blackwell launched his label in the late 1950s and even at that time his dresses sold for between $800 and $1000, which in modern dollars converts to up to $10,000 a dress. Huge numbers for this time period. He dressed many of the big stars of the day including Jane Russell, Dorothy Lamour and Jayne Mansfield. His 'custom' label were the pieces that were made-to-order and were one-of-a-kind pieces that were fitted to a specific client in the couture tradition. This dress came directly to me from the original client which is how I have its exact date. It is an extraordinary dress from this time period and very beautiful

This dress is absolutely incredible and it is stunning to see it in person. The fabric is amazing in its own right and it would not be something you could produce anymore in our modern world. It is a luxurious deep copper gold silk that hold the lines and shape of the dress perfectly. The cut is pure Old Hollywood. The bodice is fitted to your curves and it is suspended from the shoulders by two tiny straps in the same fabric. Vertical panels and seams create the shape of the bodice and these all lead into a sharply angled seam that starts at the waist on one side and dips down tot he hip on the other. The seams are all perfectly place to give shape around the waist without having a horizontal line to break the eye. The fabric is gathered and curves over to one side of the hip and then falls to the floor in a column of silk. A long wide panel is swagged over on one side and then extends around to the back. This panel extends out at the side and falls longer at that side of the hem for a killer sweeping flare. It is just spectacular. This is pure Old Hollywood in the best possible way. The dress came with its original spray of pale baby blue, blush pink and ivory silk flowers that you can pin at the front, side or back depending on where you want to emphasize the shape created. I love the way the back dips low to show some bare skin for the perfect finish to this beautiful dress. Excellent condition with a small note below

Fully lined in a copper silky rayon. It closes with a side painted metal zipper hidden under a seam. Light boning through the bodice. Hand work throughout. I see a tiny bit of colour run near the edge on the bodice and  another small areas near the hem. There is a very small hole on the folds under the swag from the brooch. You don't see this once the flower is in place and its in the fold if you choose to wear it without the flower. Some minor grubbiness on the edge of the hem. The flower shows some storage marks and the petals have softened. Please the photos after the label shot

Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam with room to at least a B cup at front
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 62" from top of the shoulder to longest point of the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4457

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Norman Norell was one of the great American designers. His clothes were wildly expensive in their day and he was credited for the unique ability to translate Paris couture into American ready-to-wear. He started in the film industry and then was hired by Hattie Carnegie. In 1941 he left and and joined Anthony Traina where the Traina-Norell label soon appeared. Upon Traina's retirement in 1960 he launched his own self-named label. He won the very first Coty American Fashion Critics' award ever given in 1943 and then won it again in 1951. In 1956 he became the first designer to earn a place in the Coty Hall of Fame. His signature styles for day ran the gamut from shirtwaists, suits, beautifully tailored coats and clothes that seemed simple at first glance but were logistically complex. Norman himself once said 'To qualify as a designer one should not be afraid to repeat a good design, and certainly must have his own signature'. He achieved that and more. I think every serious vintage collector should have a piece of his work in their archives.

The suit is a marvel of construction and is in wonderful condition. It is simple in appearance but this really hides the masterful cut and tailoring of it. The jacket is tailored with a sleek cut. It has a lovely little wide pointed collar. Four pockets are top set on the front. All four are functional and Iove the little nod to a military piece it gives it. The shoulders have the lightest of padding just to create and hold their shape. The deep brown light weight suiting wool it is made out of has enough weight that it holds the lines perfectly once it is on. It has its original belt to cinch in the waist of the jacket and add shape or you can wear it without for a more boxy feel. Each sleeve is long and straight and ends in a proper three button cuff and each button works and has a proper couture button hole. It really is incredible made. The skirt is fabulous. It is a true flaring A-line and that is what lets is fall so beautifully as you can see in the photos. The waist is banded and besides the amazing shape of it is has been kept simple to accommodate the belting of the jacket over it. There are pockets hidden along each hip. Once on, the suit transforms and you can see how beautiful the lines are and this would be even better on an actual person. His suits changed the way we approach woman's wear and this particular one is a particularly wonderful example of how strong his tailoring and lines were. This one is also a little extra special because it has a handwritten tag inside with the name Deborah what looks like the number 604. A mystery as to whether that was a sample or perhaps the runway model or a client tag but it's always nice to see these extra touches in a vintage piece. Excellent condition with a minor note below

Both pieces have a hand set lining in a deep brown silk. The jacket has a three buttons at the front and three buttons on each cuff. All proper buttonholes. The skirt has a zipper and hook & eye at the waist. Two top set pockets on the breast of the jacket and two on each hip. The slip belt is stamped. Hand finished throughout. The backing on the belt is starting to go and that coating sheds just a touch. The front is fine.

Jacket
Sleeves: 24"
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 23" from waist to hem with his signature 5" deep turn under at the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4455

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I have had this tucked away for many many years and it still one of the most favourite Valentino pieces I have ever come across. I have always hoped to be able to firmly date it with a reference photo and perhaps one day I will send one to the new owner still. It is just a spectacular piece from this time period of Mr Valentino's work. It perfectly represents what he was doing for his ready-to-wear boutique label during this time period and it is the kind is piece that you will only ever find in vintage. I love it.

I love that this set has those little sleek shorts and not the expected skirt that you would normally see. It just gives the suit this entirely different feel and attitude. It is also a benefit to you that you can mix and match the pieces of this suit with other things already in your closet. The jacket is tailored with a soft cut because of the fabric and the avoidance of over-structuring. It is cut fairly straight through the body and then is has a matching tie belt to cinch in the waist and create shape. The collar is small and pointed. The sleeves are long and gather into a structured cuff that buttons with one of those fabulous gold toned metal dome buttons with the Valentino V embossed on their surface. Round edged pockets are top set on the hips and then tow smaller versions of those sits on each side of the breast of the jacket. Each pocket has a flap to close and a working button hole topped by another deep gold metal button. It closes with seven more buttons down the front. This one even has an extra buttons still sewn into the seam of the jacket. Under that are shorts that are tailored and sleek. The waist is banded and they zip up at the front with neat a little short legs. There is no extra detailing on the shorts. They are simple and neat so that they lie under the jacket without adding any bulk. Both pieces are made from an ultra soft fine wool with a very tiny pattern running through it in shades of brown. The set is very striking and has a strong and fabulous silhouette. Excellent condition

Both pieces are unlined. The shorts have an inner grosgrain ribbon edging. The jacket buttons to close down the front. The skirt has a zipper and flat hook & eye at the waist. Hand finishes. All of the buttons are functional. There is a slight natural patina on the buttons that just adds to the vintage appeal. The colour is a bit lighter and softer in person

Jacket
Sleeves: 24"
Shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam and the belt cinches it in
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 27.5" from neck to hem

Shorts
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 14" from waist to hem with just under 2 inches turned up
Inseam: 2.5" from hem up
Gusset: 17.5" from back waist to inner seam
Leg Openings: 24" around

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4457

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The twin of this dress in a different colour walked the Fall 1990 runway and we have included the reference photos of that so that you can see just how fabulous this one is on the body. This dress also included the incredible and detailed brooches on both the front and back of the dress as it was presented on the runway. This dress is unlabeled but came to me directly from the original couture client from whom I have, and have had, several other Haute Couture pieces. She was fitted by Christian himself for the dress which makes it that much more special. It is a stunning example of his Haite Couture work during this time period.

The dress is made out of an iridescent silk taffeta that has a slight colour change to it depending on how the light hits it. It can go from a deep bronze to a more iridescent blue / purple tone. I love it. The  sleeves are long and there is a row of five silk covered buttons at each wrist. The body of the dress is cut to skim over you. It is gathered at one side at the front with the first of two incredible jeweled brooches the dress came with. The brooch is hand made from a gold toned metal with large golden topaz glass crystals mixed with brilliant blue crystals. The neckline angles down and across your shoulder to leave one shoulder bare and exposed. At the back the neckline dips dramatically down into a deep open V that leaves your skin bare and exposed. The second huge jeweled brooch sits at the base of that. A panel of silk flares out dramatically to one side to create a half bow, half bustle feel. The interior of that panel has extra structure so that it stays perfectly in place. The skirt falls below that and depending in your height will sit at about the knee or just above. It is fabulous. Excellent condition with minor notes below

Fully lined in a black silk organza and closes with an elaborate mix of a zipper, snaps and hooks at the back. One panel loops through the other over that. There is fused strip of rubber ribbon along the inner neckline to hold it in place and this has degraded a touch here and there. One stone is missing at the bottom of the front brooch. The brooches are tacked into place at present but are removable and you can see little marks on the fabric under them where the pin has been pushed through in different places. There are a couple teeny pinhead snags on the fabric where the brooches have caught on the silk near the brooches. These are all very minor and mentioned for accuracy. Unlabeled. Sourced from the original couture client and Mr Lacroix has mentioned to me on insta that he remembers fitting her.

Sleeves: 19.5"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 36" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3602

Reference Photos: Fall/Winter 1990 Christian Lacroix Haute Couture Runway.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The Stella McCartney era at Chloe has since become extremely collectible. The fall 2001 show was fantastic. This was the opening look for the show and in Vogue's review they specifically mentioned the faux coats that were treated so glamorously with added details saying; "Stella McCartney continued with her exploration of grown-up, couture-inspired silhouettes for Chloé, without forgetting about the youthful, fun-loving basics that are the label's bread and butter. McCartney's forte is her ability to glam up casual street clothes. Her fitted jeans and corduroy trousers with zipper pockets, face-stenciled T-shirts and pearl-encrusted draped tops all had an air of insouciant cool to them; so did the faux furs with shaved bits that accommodated clusters of silver flowers." This was one of the strongest looks from the show and a true piece of fashion history.

The twin of this coat was the opening runway look and was worn by Angela Lindvall. The show had several piece sin this faux fur but this coat is the hardest to find. You will often see the shorter version that was made of this coat or the shrugs or collars but the actual coat is very rare. These had a pretty hefty price tag and not as many were made. They were only sent to certain stores and were a limited production piece. The coat is a 3/4 length and is made from a thick and soft faux fur. The cut is loose and easy and it widens out as it nears the hem for a bit of a swing coat feel. It has hidden fur hooks to close the top part of the front and then swings open under that. There's a hook at the top of the collar so you can wear it folded down like how I photoed it for these photos to give it a more loose and easy feel or you can close that top hook so that it wraps around the neck like how it was worn on the runway. The sleeves are cut extra long and they are gathered along the inside of the wrist. This gives them a curve so that they follow the curve of the arm and it also lets you wear them up a bit so they get that bit of a gathered slouchy feel you see in the runway pics. The inside is lined in a men's wear shooting fabric that she often used. There are two zippered pockets in the interior that have little chains attached to the zipper pulls. On the exterior there is a pocket hidden along each hip. It is meant to feel a little big and slouchy once on and I love that. The best part about is of course that extraordinary detailing done on the shoulder and collar on the one side of the coat. Fine silver metal strips have been applied to the coat to create a series of medallions. Swirling beads and sequins sit over those to create this fantastic design that goes across the top of the arm. under the shoulder at the front and then runs up and into the collar and around to the back. Its just brilliant and an amazing piece of fashion history. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition.

Fully lined with two interior pockets as described above. It closes with hidden fur hooks at the front. Pockets on each hip. Tagged a vintage Chloe 40

Sleeves: 28"
Shoulders: 16.5"
Bust: 18-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 47" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4454

Reference Photos: Fall 2001 Chloe Runway, Look 1. Model Angela Lindvall.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Madame Gres' work has had profound effects on Haute Couture and her influence still resonates to this day. Her attention to detail, master draping techniques and respect for the female form is unparalleled. She was known for designing and creating garments directly on her models and this became a signature of her work. She opened her first atelier, La Maison Alix in 1932. A partnership briefly changed the house's name to Alix Barton and then the label went to simply Alix. In 1942 she married, and the label made its last change to became Madame Gres, which was a partial anagram of Serge, her husband's first name. Her work spans over five full decades with the vast majority of it, with the exception of a short-lived RTW line begun in 1980, dedicated solely to creating Haute Couture. She is one of the greatest couturiers of our time and her pieces are very rare and hard to find. This set is from the early to mid-seventies and it is fabulous.

This is an amazing vintage set. I love the camel coloured wide legged jersey pants with their wide cut legs. The jersey they are made out of is the soft wool that she used extensively during this time period and it has a soft finish to it that looks and feels heavenly once on. The pants are banded at the top with a wide gathered sash of a pale yellow jersey for contrast to the camel colour below. This hooks to the one side and there is built-in boning at the sides to hold its shape around the waist. It is a touch wider on one side then the other to create a pretty curve. The pants fall to the floor and widen out to be 64" around at each hem. The top has a metallic finish to it and the contrast between the two fabrics is fantastic. The silk has actual metal thread woven through it and this gives it a subtle glint from all angles. A design runs through the silk and the metal thread is woven onto that in a floral design The neckline is scooped and it skims over you to the waist. The sleeves are long and simple. It ties into place at the back with ties made of the same fabric. These sit on an angle that starts at the neckline, run across to one side and then go straight down to the hem of the top. This leaves a little bare expanse of skin showing between the ties. I photoed the top un-tucked and tucked as it can be worn either way. Both pieces have a Haute Couture label in them and the top has an additional handwritten numbered tag inside. This is an incredible and rare opportunity to own a beautiful piece of her work and it is that much more versatile with the two pieces since you can mix and match with pieces from your exiting wardrobe. Excellent condition with a small note below.

Both pieces are unlined and have been completely finished by hand. The pants close with hook and eye at the band and a zipper under that. There's a small repair to the jersey inside the inner structure of the band and then one of the fold along one side. Neither is seen once on. The top ties to close at the back.

Top
Sleeves: 21"
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom seam: approx 12-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 12" from shoulder to hem

Pants
Waist: 12" at top of band and narrows to 11.5" flat across from side seam to side seam of true waist
Band: 3.5" high on the boned hook closure side and the other side will widen to approx 9"
Hips: open
Length: 40" from true waist to hem
Inseam: 29"
Rise: 15" from true waist to inner seam

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS

Item# DD4182

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is a spectacular and rare suit from the Fall 2004 McQueen show and its near twin walked the runway that season for Look 31. I have only seen the jacket come up for sale but I have never seen both pieces together as the complete suit. The runway pieces were often not produced in significant numbers and were often only found at the flagship stores in very limited quantities. This masterpiece is from the Fall 2004 show entitled 'Pantheon Ad Lecum' or 'Towards the Light'. For this collection McQueen was quoted as saying that he wanted to 'strip away all theatrics and focus purely on design'. The colours in the show focused on a nude palette and tweed was a predominant element in the collection. He also kept the embellishments to the bare minimum throughout the collection and this is one of the few pieces that was highly embellished with his usual dramatic flair.

I love that this suit walks a line between day wear and evening. The tweed says day but as you look at the fabric closer you realize that it has been shot through with a subtle gold thread that elevates the fabric. The cut and line of the set reflect his master level tailoring skills and then the embellishment screams that this is indeed a McQueen piece of the highest caliber. Both pieces are made from a light brown tweed that has the gold shot through it as mentioned above. This gives it a very subtle metallic feel but its a detail that you only really notice when you are close to the suit. The pants are fantastic. They have a smooth flat front with a zipper closure and little scoop pockets on either hip at the waist. They are cut to skim over the hips and then the legs are wide and full. They are fabulously made and lined through the upper half. I love the matching jacket. It has lightly padded shoulders and the arms are long and cut with the precision that you expect from a McQueen piece. The waist is brought in just slightly and it is cut to sit just over the waist of the pants. Onto this is an elaborate embellishment that combines thick 3D braiding detail made from a deep muted gold real metal thread  hundreds of burnished gold metal studs in two sizes. These are set in an elaborate design that forms a shape to suggest his signature harness.  The applique work wraps over the shoulders,  narrows down and inward at the waist and then flares out to wrap around the hips. The same beautiful design is repeated on the back.The zipper is hidden at the front so when it is zipped you have this stunning almost breast plate feel. Every time I have a really good McQueen in the shop I am just blown away by his ability to create the lines he did and the level of craftsmanship that went into his pieces. This one is no exception and it is remarkable. I love it.  Excellent condition with a small note below

The pants are lined through to about the knee and close with a hidden set side zipper and a button at the waist. The jacket is fully lined in a muted gold silk and zippers to close at the front. Each sleeve has a hidden set zipper. Light padding in each shoulder. The jacket is tagged a McQueen 38. There is a tiny bit of stress at the same at the top the shoulder to part of the embellishment. It's extremely minor but mentioned for accuracy. Please see the photo after the label shot.

Jacket
Sleeves: 24.5"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom hem: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 20" from neck to hem

Pant
Waist: 14.5-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 40.5" from waist to hem with 2" turned under
Inseam: 31.5"

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Item# DD4310

Reference Photos/Video: Fall 2004 Alexander McQueen Runway, Look 31. Model Hannelore Knuts.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Yves showed the twin of this dress on the Spring 1993 runway AND during his Haute Couture presentation for the Fall 1992 collection. On both runways this dress was styled with a belt but otherwise looks identical to this version. Yves was a designer who mixed and matched ideas from couture to ready-to-wear with ease. More so than many other designers. Sometimes the details were exact copies like this one is, with the difference being that one would have been made to measure and completely by hand and this one produced with only some hand finishes and to his standard sizing. This dress has added interest to it because Catherine Deneuve actually owned one of the couture versions produced and it was part of her 2019 sale of YSL with Christie's auction house. This was already special due to its rarity and that little added linked provenance with its history makes it even more special. The dress is absolutely gorgeous and I'm happy to have photo references so that you can see just how beautiful this is on an actual body. Yves Saint Laurent was known for his leopard pieces and this one is exceptional.

In her review of the couture show that season, fashion journalist, Suzy Menkes, said; ‘Laurent took a three minute standing ovation Wednesday for a show that could be summed up in three words poetry, simplicity, authority.' It was also noted that by the time the final evening pieces came down the runway the crowd erupted into 'enthusiastic cries'. Even though this version is not from the couture runway I feel it is relevant to share that bit of her review because the dress is visually identical to the couture one as noted above.

The neckline is cut wide across and the distance from the edge of the neck line to the shoulder seam is just over an inch. Built-in underneath is a bit of a specialized padding that runs the width of that and then extends out just past the seam into the arms about a quarter of an inch. Then what gives you that high feel of the shoulder and holds the neckline in place so that it has that beautiful drop at the front. It is padding with the very minimal use of padding and it is genius. It is also important to note that this neckline and shoulder treatment are used in many of his pieces from this point forward and became a bit of a signature for him. From there the sleeves fall from the shoulder narrowing down to the cuff. From just above the elbow to the bottom of the sleeve he has gathered the fabric along the inside edge and then added a zipper at the wrist. The top is loose cut and is meant to billow out over the waist a bit. The silk panne velvet catches the light beautifully and emphasizes the curving lines the draping creates. At the back it falls in a smoother line to the waist and there is a keyhole and button above that for a tiny flash of bare skin. The waist is banded with a one inch band of the same fabric. On the couture runway he added a gold belt but the dress can easily be worn without one. From there the skirt falls to floor widening out a bit as it nears the hem. The fabric is a silk mix panne velvet and it has an exceptionally smooth pile finish that makes it soft to the touch. I love the way the leopard print falls over the dress with the darker part of the print running down the middle of the dress at both the front, back and running along the bottom of each sleeve. This would have been carefully and deliberately planned and placed in this fashion to help add height and draw the eye in when it is on. It is genius and it is beautiful. Poetry. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a brown silk and closes with a side set zipper that extends up and under the arm slightly. Each cuff has a zipper to close. There is a button and loop above a key hole at the back. Light padding on the very edges of the shoulder and little straps and snaps to hold your undergarments in place inside of each shoulder. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Tagged a vintage YSL 40

Sleeves: 25"
Shoulders: no set seam because of the width of the neck
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16" from top of shoulder to top seam at waist and meant to blouse over a bit.
Skirt: 41" from top seam of 1" band at the waist to hem with 2" turned under

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4268

Reference Photos/Video: (1-3) Spring 1993 Yves Saint Laurent Runway.  /  (4-10) Fall 1992 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway.  /  (11)  Fall 1992 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture long leopard silk velvet dress with gilt-metal belt from Catherine Deneuve's Auction with Christie's.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This was the collection where Donatella went back to using and styling her models to look like super models like her brother Gianni had done in the past. Vogue said that; 'The aura of glamour that sparked off the flying hair and luminous faces of Carmen Kass, Daria Werbowy, Eugenia Volodina, and Karen Elson was a strong reminder of what once made Versace electrifying.' The collection focused mainly on daywear but a very Versace notion of that. This was Look 25 in the line up and was the strongest piece of the shorter dresses presented. Its twin ended up being the one used for the ad campaign that season and was shot on Demi Moore who looked utterly fabulous in it. I am very happy to have that shot, runway photos and a video so you can see how amazing this dress is once on the body. It is gorgeous.

The dress is made out of a printed silk chiffon that combines numerous abstract versions of various exotic skins. These are laid out in a pattern that mixes and matches them all and this effect is heightened even further by the detailing work that is done on the skirt. The dress is cut to highlight every curve. The bodice is a single layer of the silk chiffon. To keep it in place you slip your arms through the sleeves and then simply tie it around the neck. The front is gathered into two halters that run from the high set waist to the attached scarf at the neck and there's a slit that runs down the center to leave a sexy glimpse of bare skin. The sleeves are long and simple, narrowing down slightly as they reach the wrist. The back is left bare across the top and that long scarf falls from the neck to cascade over it for a bit of a peekaboo effect that is very sexy. The skirt starts from under the bust and is fitted through the waist. Inside there's a bit of a stiffened net corset to help shape and hold it in place. It is fitted over the hips and narrows down as it reaches the hem. An small open vent runs up the back to allow you to walk. The skirt is quite remarkable with the long strips of fabric sewn and overlapped horizontally around it. When you look at it close up you realize it that it's all individual strips and it is quite remarkable. It is stunning and so Versace in feel. Excellent condition

The halter part is unlined and the skirt is lined in a black silk chiffon. There is a stiffened net partial corset that runs around the interior waist for shape. It closes with a hidden set side zipper and ties into place around the neck. No size tag present. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.

Sleeves: approx 25"
Shoulders: no true defined seam
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam with room for an A-C cup at front, maybe a touch more if needed
Seam under the bust: 15-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: to 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10" from neck to seam under the bust
Skirt: 29" from seam under the bust to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4216

Reference Photos/Video: (1-4) Fall 2005 Versace Runway, Look 25. Model: Hana Soukupova.  /  (5) Demi Moore for the Fall 2005 Versace Ad Campaign photographed by Mario Testino.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Richard Tyler was the designer to wear in the 1990s and early 2000s. He won the Council of Fashion Designers of America New Talent award in 1993. In 1994 and 1995 he won the Council's Womenswear Designer of the Year award. Julia Roberts, Janet Jackson, and Sigourney Weaver were just a few of the stars who loved his work and his dresses made regular appearances on the red carpet. He was known for his impeccable tailoring and finishes and at the time employed some of the best tailor and seamstresses in the business. 

This dress is fabulous and I love having its full provenance to share with you. It made its debut on the Fall 2004 runway. That version did not have the bead work across the back. Then Marcia Cross was nominated for Best Performance in a Television Series, Musical or Comedy, for her role as Bree Van Kamp in Desperate Housewives. The series itself was also nominated for Best Television Series, Musical or Comedy, which they won. She had Richard custom make this dress for her and it was fitted with more inner structure and had the bead work added across the back. The dress was later auctioned off in a charity auction which is where my client obtained it. 

The dress is made from a printed velvet in a deep chocolate and is completely cut on the bias. The flowers are a muted copper gold tone and they catch the light beautifully as you move. It is incredibly soft and drapes like a dream. The front plunges low to just under the bust. Each cup softly drapes over the inner structure and then curves up and over the shoulders. It is set wide across so you see the collar bones and it creates a lovely line. Under the waist the velvet is gathered and that band of gathering is set on a curve that comes out from the waist and curves up to meet the plunge. The dress then skims over the waist under that and then flares out and widens as it nears the hem. The back is caught up just below the neck with a button and then it drapes over the back to the waist leaving a bare expanse of skin showing in the opening between. There is a beaded panel that goes across the back that holds everything place and adds a pretty detailing. This dips right to the waist and then the skirt falls to the floor and extends well past to create the dramatic trained effect that you see. My client did not end up ever wearing it so it only would have been worn the one time on the red carpet and for the charity auction. It is amazing and a wonderful piece of award show history. Excellent condition 

Fllu lined in a bias cut silk and has a built in inner bodice for support. The dress has no tags as it was custom made for Marcia. It closes with a hidden set side zipper and the inner bra hooks to close attaching to the beaded strap across the back. You could switch out the inner bra for a larger one if needed

Bust: the strap of the inner bra will go from 28" to 31" and the cups are about an A-B I think. Without the bra the bust is approx x 18'5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 64" from top of shoulder to front hem, 90" to the longest point of the back 

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3877

Reference Photos/Video: (1-3) Fall 2004 Richard Tyler Runway Collection.  /  (4) A model wearing Richard Tyler walks the runway at the Fashion Forward Fundraiser in LA, June 2004.  /  (5-9) Marcia Cross, in Richard Tyler, at the Golden Globe Awards, 2005.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.