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This is one of those instantly recognizable dresses from the time period when Karl Lagerfeld was the designer for the Chloe label. The twin of this dress was photoed by Tony Kent for the March issue of Vogue Paris on Sylvie Vartan and that same shot was also featured in the 60th anniversary exhibit ‘Chloe: Attitudes’ in 2012. It is also an important collection in that 1974 marked the year when Mr. Lagerfeld took over exclusively as designer. Examples of Karl's work during this time period are held in museums around the world and are rare finds. Their place in fashion history is even more entrenched with his recent passing.
This dress is wonderful. In person it is even better then how it photoed, if that is possible. The skirt really has tremendous movement that is not conveyed in a still photograph. It is actually two separate pieces. A slim cut inner dress and a skirt overlay. The cut of the inner dress is kept simple. The dress is made out of a fine black silk crepe. The bodice is a cut straight across and the dress is suspended from tiny straps that curve up and around each shoulder. The waist is seamed and fitted and the skirt falls to the floor. It skims over the hips and flares out as it reached the hem. Over this is a silk organza over-skirt that has yards and yards of fabric in it. This makes it very full and when you move it is wonderful. You get an idea of the fullness that it has in the reference photo. Onto the silk of the bodice and completely covering the over skirt are hand applied silver sequins and glass tube beads. These are set in little abstract geometric designs around the top of the bodice and all the way around all of that fabric of the skirt. More sequins are scattered between and when the pieces are worn together the effect is fabulous. The inside is all finished by hand and to couture standards. I love it so much and it is pure magic once on an actual body. Excellent overall condition with a note to review below
The dress fabric is self backed in sating and the bodice is additionally lined in a black silk. It closes with a side set fine painted metal zipper. Hand finished interior to couture standards and all hand work for the beads and sequins that is clearly seen on the back of the fabric. There are some small holes along the waistband of the inner dress. These are covered completely when the skirt is in place. I suspect they are from the hook snagging on the fabric when it was worn over the years. Perhaps the occasional sequin missing.
Dress
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 17" from neck to waist
Skirt: 42" from waist to hem
Overskirt
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 45" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD3409
Reference Photo: Sylvie Vartan in Chloe by Tony Kent, Vogue Paris, March, 1974
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
Phoebe Philo had moved to Paris just prior to the Spring 2004 collection and this effect on her work was noted in the Vogue review of this collection: 'Now that she's moved to Paris, the London girl's references have acquired a French accent. "I went through my mum's old fashion magazines—she had a garageful, from when my parents were living in Paris in the late seventies. That's when I was born," she said, "and I just thought the girls looked so gorgeous, fresh, and happy."' Another Magazine also did an editorial on Phoebe in 2016 and stated: 'Spring/Summer 2004 marked the height of Philo’s influence and lusted-after originality....The collection as a whole signified a new direction for Philo – a move away from looks infused with urban sportswear to grown-up femininity....There’s no doubt that S/S04 signified the beginning of Chloé’s (and Philo’s) reign over the wardrobes and department stores of the world.'
The twin of this dress was Look 42 on the runway, worn by Daria Werbowy. It is made from a slinky, black nylon that was all the rage during this time period. The bodice is suspended by two tiny straps that come out from the center front and angle up and over each shoulder. It has a full built in interior corset bra with built in cups and hooks at the back that become the closure of the dress. Note that it was a little bit small on my mannequin and does close completely at the back and does not angle down onto a V at the back as shown in the photos. Phoebe was heavily influence by vintage during this time period and you can see that in the embroidered lattice detailing that runs under the bust and highlights the waist. That detailing at the waist also allows you to wear it higher up so the bodice closes over or long and more straight as seen on Daria for the runway. Each side of the skirt is slit to the bottom of the elastic banding. It is gorgeous and a significant piece of history for the Chloe brand. Excellent condition
Unlined through the body with a lined and structured built in corset bra. Hooks to close at the bag. Tagged a XS and appears to have been worn very little if at all.
Bust: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Underbust of interior corset: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: approx 49" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS
Item# DD2905
Reference Photos: S/S 2004 Chloe Runway, Look 42. Model: Daria Werbowy.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
Designer Chloe
