During John Galliano's years from 1996-2011 at the house of Christian Dior he arguably produced some of the most amazing bias cut and glamourous dresses in the house's history. His work often has a feeling of the decadence and abandonment of the twenties and thirties with their beautiful cuts. They marry Old Hollywood with the minimalist spirit of the nineties and early 2000s and the results are stunning. This is an amazing example of his work from Spring 2007 and it is gorgeous. I love that we found a reference photo of a shorter silver version on Drew Barrymore and a video where she notes that the dress was custom made for her. A printed version was also worn by her in the cover of Paris Vogue which makes me wonder if this was also one that was made in only limited quantities. And having those photos gives you an idea of the insane cut of the dress. This one in its full length is even more glamorous I think and It is a really beautiful dress.

The dress is strapless and cut to follow and skim over the body. Shaped inner cups sit over on each breast and have underwire built in underneath them for a lift. It skims from there over the waist and hips. The shape is created by amazing seam work that pieces the dress together to create that hourglass shape that you see. I took some shots to show you the amount f seaming that has gone into the dress and you will see it even mote in person. The top edge of the dress is amazing. It has fabric panels that pick up and above the sweetheart neckline. panels that pick up and above the sweetheart neckline. On each side there are three. These are set in pleated angles, so that one sits a little more up, and the other one has a bit more of a 3-D effect as it falls over the top of the bust. These add this gorgeous old Hollywood heel to the dress. Horizontal, pleading on one side and a curved vertical seam that separates the other side gives the bus a slight asymmetrical feel. Those vertical seams wrap all the way around the back to the zipper, which is also set slightly offside and creates a bit of a dip at the back. A bit of the underlying inner silk satin bodice peaks out above that dip at the back to give the feel of seeing the corset underneath.Those vertical seams wrap all the way around the back to the zipper, which is also set slightly offside and creates a bit of a dip at the back. A bit of the underlying inner silk satin bodice peaks out above that dip at the back to give the feel of seeing the corset underneath. It comes in at the waist and then more of that fantastic seaming allows it to curve around the hips, come in slightly around the knee and then the bottom skirt flares back out. That phenomenal seaming on the skirt opens into pleats off to one side at the lower portion of the skirt at the front and then does the same thing at the back so you get a flare and kick of fabric when you move. The dress is completely covered in a black lace, The dress is completely covered in a black lace and the fabric underneath has a subtle silver thread work through it that you just barely see through the lace. It is a fantastic dress and is even better on. Excellent condition

There is an inner cupped and shaped bodice made of black silk satin that is lightly boned and has underwired formed cups. The rest of the dress is lined in a black silk. The inner corset closes with hook and eye and then the dress closes over that with hidden set offset zipper at the back that follows a seam. Tagged a vintage Galliano FR42 GB14 US8

Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam with an A-B cup
Waist: 14-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10" from top of bodice to waist
Length: 42" from top of bodice to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD4485

Reference Photos/Video: (1-4) Drew Barrymore at the London Premiere of Music and Lyrics, February 2007.  /  (5) Drew Barrymore in Galliano for Vogue Paris, December 2006.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This dress comes to me from my same client whose aunt purchased from both the couture houses and Ady Couture while she was living in Switzerland during the eighties and into the nineties. Prior to that, during the late sixties and into the early 80s her aunt lived in both France and Brussels where she purchased pieces from Louis Mies along with the couture houses. Mies was a small independent couturier who did custom work for his clients to haute couture standards. He designed many pieces for the Queen of Belgium and like Ady, he had permission from several of the Haute Couture ateliers to produce their Haute Couture pieces and bought the fabric directly from them. I have some new information that he might have sold actual couture pieces through his salon as well. This dress bears a striking similarity to some of the 1977 Valentino couture collection pieces and I have included some of those iconic photographs here and if nothing else to show you how this dress will look on an actual body. It is absolutely unbelievable in person and one of my favourite personal pieces from her estate so far. 

The level that this dress is made to is incredible. The fabric is a fine black silk taffeta and then parts of the design are edged in a beautiful French Chantilly lace. There are yards and yards of fabric used in the construction of this piece but once on the body it is all perfectly balanced. It sits off the shoulder to leave a bare expanse of skin showing that balances the volume of the dress below. I love the cut of the top. There is a six inch caped ruffle that wraps all the way around your shoulders and is edged with a 3.5" band of lace. Under that are extra extra wide sleeves. The width of the inner sleeves give the illusion of a layered caped detailing but they are actually true sleeves. Each sleeve is edged in that same lace to give the bodice a tiered effect from the side. The bodice is cut to skim over the body and then the waist is seamed to nip in for shape. I added a grosgrain ribbon to define the waist even more and this will be included. The skirt curves out from there and falls to the floor widening out to be very full as it nears the hem. The skirt is made up of three layers. The innermost layer is a full built-in black silk under-skirt that has wide bands of stiffened netting at the hem and then again part way up the skirt. These bands help to hold the volume. There are these little ruffled details that run along the seams where this inner layer is pieced together despite the fact that no one would ever see them. I love that. The second layer over that is made of black silk taffeta and it has two ruffled tiers at the hem that are both edged with black lace. The final top layer sits over both these and it curves up at the front to meet the seam at the waist. It is stunning. The dress is completely made by hand and I have included a couple of shots of one of the inner seams for you to see the amazing handwork. Excellent condition with a note below

Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk and the skirt is constructed as described above. It closes with a painted metal zipper at the back. Made by hand to couture standards. There are a couple small repairs / tiny holes on the ruffle on the neckline. There is so much fabric they get lost in the folds. Please see the final shot after the label. It otherwise looks unworn 

Bust: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of natural shoulder to waist
Skirt: 43" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3882

Reference photos: Valentino campaign 1977 shot by Deborah Turbeville

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

James Galanos launched Galanos Originals in 1951. He was only 27 years old.  By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. When you covert to modern dollars the top end figure would be about $31,000 today. His ready-to-wear was made to couture standards and on par with the French couturiers of the time. Grace Kelly was a huge fan and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world. He is one of my personal favourites and this set is an exquisite and very special example of his work.

This set was custom made for, and is from the estate of, 1950s model Betsy Pickering Kaiser. Betsy appeared on several Vogue covers in the 1950s and it was during that time period time period that she met Galanos. They were friends for over 60 years. She collected and wore Galanos pieces her entire life and was his friend and muse. He once told her husband ‘I would rather have Betsy wear my clothes than any other woman’. She was a constant presence on the International Best Dressed List and and was added to the Best Dressed Hall of Fame in the early 1970s.

This is gorgeous. It is made from a beautiful printed light weight silk chiffon that is combined with a red lace that has a metallic finish. The entire set combined weighs ounces. Huge flowers cover the entire surface of the silk chiffon. The pants are made from two layers of the chiffon and they are cut long and wide. An elastic waist makes them very easy and comfortable to wear. You then slip on that long piece over the pants. It is also constructed from two layers of silk that fall from under the lace bodice. Each side is slit open right up to the lace top. This gives the top piece a ton of movement and creates this fabulous floating effect around you when you walk. The bodice part is made of two panels of a metallic red lace that is connected along each side with a bit of a angled plunge above where they connect. The lace has that fantastic metallic finish to it for contrast against the pattern in the silk chiffon. The bodice has an inner nude silk lining so that from a distance you look like you are wearing nothing underneath it. The top is suspended by four tiny silk straps that curve over the shoulders. This set is tremendously good in person and it really needs an actual body to come to life. Cut supermodel long in length. Excellent condition

The pants are made of two layers of silk chiffon and close with a back zipper and elastic through the waist. The outer layer is lined with a nude silk chiffon through the bodice and the skirt is made from two layers of the silk. The outer layer closes at the side with hidden fabric covered snaps. There are a couple of very minor repairs and light snags near the hem of the overlay. This is a one-off, unlabelled custom piece made for Betsy and came from her estate. 

Over dress
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 62" from shoulder to hem

Pants
Elastic waist: 15-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Pant: 45" from waist to hem
Inseam: 32" from inner seam to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD2278

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This dress is the twin of the dress that walked the Spring 1992 runway and it is fantastic. The show had a string lingerie theme running through it and this dress was one of the most literal interpretations of that theme. This one is also brand new with tags so it's like having address from a time capsule which is incredible. I love that I have tons of runway photos and the video so that you can see just how fantastic this dress is on the body.

The dress is strapless with a cupped and shaped bodice and short cut with a kicky little skirt. It is made from a red lace to really play on that lingerie feel and the lines of it have been highlighted with a black grosgrain ribbon. This little extra touch really adds to the impact the dress has. A pretty little edging of silk chiffon is set in a small ruffle that follows the curving edge of the bust. This continues all the way around to the back. The cups have light boning for shape and then go all the way down and around the back. the dress skims over the waist and hips with long black grosgrain ribbons sewn onto the lace to create curves and length. Another ribbon circles around the seam that separates the lower skirt from the body of the dress. I love the fear of the lower skirt. It is set to be gathered into that low set seam so that it has a little extra volume and flare. The bottom edges are set an a little scallop that follows the design in the lace. The dress is simultaneously beautiful, romantic and full out sexy. It is gorgeous and with its original hang tag in place a little like getting a time capsule piece. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a red silk chiffon and the interior bodice and upper part of the dress is lightly boned for shape and support. It closes with a hidden set zipper under the black middle ribbon. Tagged a vintage YSL 40. New with original hang tag and never worn

Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 29" from the top of the bodice to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4447

Reference Photos/Video: Spring 1992 Yves Saint Laurent Runway.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Oscar was known for his beautiful and feminine designs and this dress really showcases that. With our modern day obsession with all things eighties and nineties this play on proportions and fabrics still feels extremely of this moment fashion wise. Oscar had an amazing sense of aesthetics and his genius was in making women look and feel beautiful. This is the type of dress you can easily imagine in an editorial of the day on one of the reigning supermodels. It is just gorgeous

There are actually three fabric used in the making of this dress. The sleeves are a perfectly light in weight silk taffeta, the bodice is a black lace and then the skirt is a fine soft black silk with a very fine thin ribbing. The play on those three fabrics together is very romantic feeling. The neckline is scooped low and set wide across the shoulders at the front. At the back it has an even lower scoop out so that you get this great expanse of bare skin there. The sleeves are spectacular. They have built in tulle to help hold their volume and they are cut to be extremely full so that they billow out to just about the elbow. They have elastic running through the edges nearest to the shoulders and you can wear them up and on the shoulder like I have shot them here or I think you can also let them cascade down to leave each shoulder bare. The bodice is covered ion the black lace all the way around and I love the little lace peplum that circles the waist and balances out those sleeves. The skirt fall from under there in a beautiful curve to the floor. The skirt is finished in a fine stripe that I love. Inside the interior of the skirt there is an additional underskirt of silk organza that has a wide ruffled bottom that helps to hold the shape of the outer skirt. When you move the skirt shows it volume and movement beautifully. Excellent condition

The bodice is lined in a black chiffon, The skirt in a black organza and the sleeves have tulle inside them to hold the shape. It closes with a back zipper. Tagged a vintage ODLR 6

Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: approx 17" from natural shoulder to slightly dropped seam under natural waist
Skirt: 44" from slightly dropped seam under natural waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4444

Reference Photo: 1982 Oscar de la Renta.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This incredible dress has it's original tag that appears to indicate that it was a sample from 1998. I have not been able to verify if this dress was produced for the shops or if it remained a one-off sample. If it is the only one that would be an incredible thing to have and even if it was produced it's so utterly beautiful that it would just be adding more beauty to the world if there was more than one. Of course I will continue to hunt for that information and one day I hope to send its new owner verification. Regardless of its production status, the dress is one of the best Valentino pieces I've ever seen.

This is a really stunning dress. And it shows how beautifully Valentino emphasize the female body will always stay completely elegant. The netting treatment on the dress makes you feel like you have been wrapped in the tulle. Underneath, the inner ivory silk taffeta layer gives the dress structure and it makes this beautiful, slight rustling sound when you move. The silk netting over that has a dot pattern over its surface. It is gathered down and along both sides. This creates this fantastic ruching all the way down that highlights your curves. Where it is gathered down both sides there is an elaborate line that has been beaded with two types of tiny black seed beads. The neckline curves around you at the top and then the dress is cut to skim over you with the shape all created by inner vertical seaming. The bottom skirt of the silk ivory underlay has been allowed to peek out from underneath the netting. It flares out and has an elaborate pleated ruffle all the way around. It is cut a little longer at the back and has extra fabric there as well so that you get this bit of a train effect behind you and a little fabulous kicking out of fabric as you walk. This is an incredible dress and one of my favorite Valentino pieces I've ever had in the shop. Excellent condition

The ivory acts as the lining through the body and then the bodice is lined with an additional layer of black silk satin. Lightly boned through the inner built-in bodice. It closes with a hidden set side zipper and the inner bodice piece has its own separate zipper. It has its original tag and appears to have never been worn. Tagged a vintage Valencia 40

Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 55" from top of bodice to front hem, 59" to the back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4431

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This dress is a work of art and instantly recognizable as being a Gaultier. His career spans decades. His first show was in 1976 and his avant garde designs quickly gained him the reputation of being fashion's 'l'enfant terrible'. His designs mixed cultures with abandon, gender norms were blurred and the body was presented encased in ways unimaginable prior to his own unique vision. His first Haute Couture collection debuted in 1997 and his final show where he was the designer was in Spring 2020. He has since then had guest designers come in for his couture collections and I love this solution for him as a designer. Gaultier couture rarely comes to market and this one is exceptional. It is also very well documented.

The Fall 2000 Haute Couture presentation was called 'Paris and its Muses'. I have included the original runway reference photos here and tyou can see that this is the twin of the runway look. Doutzen Kroes was photoed in it for Vanity Fair that season and in 2013 its twin dress was featured in the exhibit "The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk". I was invited and attended the opening of that show in San Francisco and I love having this dress in hand now. This dress was obviously a favourite of Jean Paul's because he also chose to recreate a version of it for his Fall 2018 Haute Couture collection. That 2018 version was then worn by Rita Ora for the 2018 MTV VMAs. I believe that this may have been the only dress that was produced beyond the runway version

The dress is made from a layer of fine black silk netting that falls over an interior nude coloured lingerie weight stretch silk. This makes it very easy to wear and be comfortable on despite the dramatic feel it has. Onto the silk netting are hand made and hand applied letters made of a black silk chiffon shaped over stiffened netting inside them. This is how they get that 3D dimensional feel that you see. It is fascinating to think that the entire dress would have had to have been careful planned out prior to its creation. Every single word that you see running over its surface would have had to have been laid out and placed on the netting for it to all work before it was even started. The degree that each word would need to curve over the body would have had to be planned for and then each word meticulously sewn onto the netting by hand like a puzzle. The letters cover the dress from head to toe and include 'Cherie',  'Mon Amour', 'Jean Paul Gaultier', 'Paris' and more. It falls from the shoulders and skims over the body and then widens out dramatically as it nears the hem. Where the words are set along the hem the hem is actually done to follow their shapes. A stunning couture detail. The letters also cleverly act as support to hold the fullness of the dress and are in a way like having a crinoline but one that is done in letters and attached on the outside of the skirt rather then worn underneath and hidden. The entire dress is suspended from the shoulders from straps that are just wide enough to accommodate the lettering that runs over them. The front has a low scoop and the back dips into a low V for some bare skin to show. It skims over the waist and then it flares out dramatically to the hem. The entire dress is bias cut so moves beautifully over the body. All of the seams are finished with proper couture techniques and it is as beautiful to see as the outside. This is a dress that would have taken hundreds of hours to complete and you really are wearing a piece of art. I am obsessed. Excellent condition with some very minor notes below 

Composed of two layers, the inner nude lingerie weight stretch silk and then the netted layer over that. The inner layer closes with a zipper and the outer layer snaps to close with a tightly spaced series of tiny snaps. There is some minor stress to the netting around the seam of the armholes. I see a couple of the ends of a word that have popped through the silk a bit and some small tiny snags/ stress to the netting here and there. All of these are very minor. Please see the photos after the Couture label.  The dress otherwise looks to have been worn very little if at all. Made by hand to Haute Couture standards. It's proper Haute Couture tag is present and it comes to me direct from the original couture client . It is extraordinary and rare.

Bust: 15-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15 " flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 62" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3612

Reference Photos: (1-2) Fall 2000 Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Runway Collection.  /  (3) Doutzen Kroes in Jean Paul Gaultier couture from the 2000 collection for Vanity Fair, 2009.  /  (4-8) Jean Paul Gaultier exhibition at the Grand Palais, 2015.  /  (9) Fall 2018 Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Runway Collection. Look 34.  /  (10-12) Rita Ora in Jean Paul Gaultier at the 2018 MTV VMAs.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Arnold Scaasi was born Arnold Isaacs in Montreal and the name Scassi is simply his own surname in reverse. He studied in Montreal and in Paris, apprenticed at the house of Paquin and then worked with the legendary Charles James. In 1964 he opened own couture salon. He dressed Hollywood stars like Lauren Bacall, Diahann Carroll and Elizabeth Taylor. He dressed several first ladies including Mamie Eisenhower, Hillary Clinton and both the Bush first ladies. He even once bragged that he refused to give Jackie clothes for free. He was the man behind the scandalous 1969 Barbra Streisand sheer trouser outfit that she collected her Oscar in, and he was presented with the Council of Fashion Designers of America Lifetime Achievement Award in 1996. The dress is from his main label and these were made to couture standards. It is incredible to see in person.

This great little Arnold Scassi dress is just exceptional. It is so bright and happy in feel. It is just like a burst of joy made into cloth. The fabrics used for this dress are just incredible. The bodice is made from a net that is then backed in silk. The net is done in a variety of bright bold colours and the way the colours are done makes it look like the netting has been painted with this colours. It is quite an unusual and fascinating textile technique. The skirt is made of a silk with the same print screen over it and then the entire skirt was covered in iridescent sequins so that it catches the light from every angle. Most of the fullness in the skirt is created from the fabric choice and the seam work but there is a layer of tulle under there to help as well. The bodice is strapless and the netting has been gathered in all the way around to create long vertical soft gathers. This adds detail and also is how he has shaped the dress to create and highlight the curves of the body. The bodice glides over the waist and then extends past and below the hip. Again a trick to exaggerates your curves. This one came with its original matching belt that you can use to add more shape and exaggerate the curves and pouf of the dress. I love how the top of the bodice is all soft curves and gathers. It is just the most fun. Excellent condition.

Fully lined in a nude netting through the bodice and the skirt is lined with an inner red silk skirt and a layer of red tulle between that and the top layer. Lightly boned through the bodice. It closes with a back zipper. Hand finishes and comes with its original belt

Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 38" from top of the bodice to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4343

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This dress is by Arnold Scassi and I love the choice of sequin and net that he used for this one. Scaasi worked under Charles James at the start of his career and many of his dressed reflect this early influence. His boutique line was launched in 1984 and was high end ready-to-wear and very expensive. Pieces from it often have a demi-couture level finish and really are an extension of his couture line. This one is especially fabulous and just is one of those pieces that feel joyful to look at.

This gorgeous little dress is constructed from multiple layers of feather light black tulle net that has hundreds of sequins sewn onto the very top layer. The sequins absolutely bring the dress to life. They are a mix of red, green, blue and gold and cover every square inch. The light bounces beautifully off them as you move. The top netted layer sits over multiple inner layers which is what gives the dress the volume that you see. The dress is strapless and the bodice is kept simple so the sequins take center stage. It is gathers down one side and the seam at the bottom is set on a sharp angle that dips down very low on one side. The skirt explodes out from that seam and that angled cut of the bodice is followed by the angle of the hem as is cascades towards the floor lower on one side. There are yards and yards of fabric in the skirt. Under that very top sequin embellished layer is another layer of tulle, then two layers of a stiffened netting and an inner black silk layer beside your skin. A flower made of the same black netting and sequins, with a black bow on top, sits on the one hip for the final perfect touch. It is fabulous and just a joy to see and wear. Excellent condition with a note below. 

The skirt is fully lined in layers as described above. The bodice is lined in a black silk with interior boning. The dress closes with a side zipper. The occasional missing sequin here and there but no large bare spots. There is a touch of patina on the sequins here and there.

Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 12" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 27" from waist to shortest part of the hem, approx 40" to the longest

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4304

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This Oscar de la Renta dress is gorgeous. The Fall 2011 Oscar de la Renta Bridal collection was amazing and this was one of the star looks of the show. His wedding pieces range from about $10000-$20,000 USD with the more elaborate ones like this tending to be in the upper range of that. Oscar launched his first bridal collection in October of 2002 and his wedding pieces have been worn by some of the most famous women in the world. He once said 'In the same manner that she fell in love with that man, I hope she's going to fall in love with that dress.' Countless brides have done just that. This gown is absolutely beautiful and if you are a bride looking for that very full princess feel then this is the ultimate dress for that. It literally takes your breathe away when you see and hold it in person.

The skirt of the dress is magnificent. It is made from many yards of multiple layers of a white tulle silk netting. The strapless bodice above that is a slightly more ivory colour and it is stunning. It is completely covered with tiers of lace and little scalloped silk chiffon rows. I took close ups of the work done there for you to see. The edges of the lace are embroidered and there are tiny curvy rows of ivory iridescent sequins mixed in. If that wasn't enough there are also little rhinestones set in rows over the bodice. The top curves in a pretty sweetheart neckline and it has a full built in hidden corset inside the bodice so you don't have to worry about additional underpinnings. The bust is strapless and fitted across the bodice. It is cut to follow your curves and there are built in hidden cups inside to lift the breasts. It tightly hugs the bodice and then nips in at the waist. The waist is detailed with elaborate appliquéd 'belt' that is made from various faux pearls, silver tube beads and glass cut rhinestones in different shapes. For the runway presentation it was shown with a simple sash and I believe that this was a custom add on. The skirt is extremely full and that beautiful volume would float all around you. There are 12 layers of tulle in the skirt and many of the inner ones have a double hem finish at the bottom. Under all of that there is a silk taffeta inner skirt in a deeper ivory. If you look closely you can see that under the top two layers of tulle the skirt has been gathered up all around in little drapes. This gives it this depth in fullness that is incredible. It's a subtle detail that you can see through those top layers of skirts that is just absolutely genius. I did not add any additional crinolines to the dress for these photos. It has enough built in layers in the  skirt already that it falls on its own perfectly. Every angle that you look at this dress from gives you drama and gorgeousness. It is cut longer at the back so that it flows out behind you when you walk. If you wanted even more of a real princes gown feel I think you could have the inner layers starched and you would get even more volume. I love the bareness of the shoulders the strapless silhouette gives you. It is the perfect balance to that full on princess skirt. It is a very stunning gown and is a beautiful example of Oscar's work. Excellent condition with a minor note below

The bodice is boned with padded inner cups for structure and support. The dress closes at the back with a hidden set zipper. Multiple layers of built in tulle and skirting as described above. The hem of the inner skirt is grubby and some of the very inner layers of tulle have some marks at their hems and i see the very occasional small tear near the hem. You see none of these once on. It otherwise looks to have been worn very little if at all. Tagged an ODLR 8 but seems to be cut small

Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam if inner hook is closed 13" if left unhooked or the hooks moved
Hips: open
Bodice: 9" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 45" from waist to front hem, 50" to inner back hem and 5*" to the ends of the tulle at the back

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML maybe a smaller MED

Item# DD4222

Reference Photos: (1-4) Fall 2011 Oscar de la Renta Bridal Collection, Look 5.  /  (5-7) Solea, wearing this dress, for her tribute performance to Evita for PBS Great Performances, March 2023.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This dress was designed by Belgian-born Jules-Francois Crahay, who headed the Lanvin ateliers from 1964-1984. He has been noted as one of fashion’s 'great colorists with his colorful patterns making his 1970s Lanvin designs hugel​y ​desirable and influential.' His time at the Lanvin label is one of my personal favourites for the house. I especially love the his work during the period through the late sixties and into the early 1970s. He was a genius at print and colour and he pushed the envelope in terms of using cutting edge fabrics available during this time period. This dress is from the early part of the 1970s and it is incredible. The Lanvin label is numbered and it is made to demi-couture standards. I love it.

This dress is incredibly beautiful in person. The camera really cannot do it justice. It is made from a fine blue silk tulle that has a floral pattern embroidered over its surface in the same blue. The entire dress is lined in a purple silk and this gives it this very unusual colour that lies somewhere between a deep blue and purple. A metallic gold thread was then embroidered over parts of the floral design. Around the entire lower skirt is a dense application of the gold with two wide panels completely covered in a open chain link design. These circle around the entire hem and lower skirt with more of the floral netting in between. The result is fantastic and I think in person the effect is far stronger then how it photoed. I love how the gold catches the light from every angle. The bodice skims over you and the sleeves are long. Each sleeve has a subtle poufed effect above its elastic cuff that would show more once on an actual body. The waist is seamed but cut more loose and easy. If you wanted a more defined shape you could easily add a ribbon or a belt. The skirt falls to the floor from there and widens out as it nears the hem.  Besides adding beautiful detail those added panels of gold at the hem also help to give just a touch of weight and help the skirt hold its volume and shape. It is very light in weight and just stunning. Far better person then the camera is doing it justice. The fabric has so much texture and the metallic bits pick up the light perfectly. Gorgeous. Excellent condition 

Fully lined in a purple silk chiffon through the top and a purple silk through the skirt. It closes with a back hand set zipper and there is elastic in each cuff. Hand finishes and hand finished inner seams mixed with machine work. The label is numbered. It looks to have been worn very little if at all. The bias cut of the lining and the net give it a little give so I have put the comfortable range of measurements where it will give a bit.

Sleeves: 26"
Shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 17-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from shoulder to waist
Skirt: 43" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Item# DD3925

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This dress is from the Fall 1990 collection and came to me directly from the original couture client. In the book Yves Saint Laurent: Catwalk they said this of this collection; 'Yves Saint Laurent allowed himself to be truly audacious for this presentation of 137 designs. The Baroque style was evident in outfits were the a fairy tales.' Elle magazine summarized Saint Laurent's work as 'insouciance elevated to the rank of fine art.' .... and of the colours that he chose for the collection the New York Times noted that 'He works with a painter's eye, and the results are always satisfying, never soporific.' They also said that 'Lace is a cornerstone of evening dressing. Sometimes it is thick velvety guipure lace, sometimes spidery Chantilly. It never looks matronly.' This was one of the final dresses of the show and a beautiful example of all of those comments by the press. I am also very happy to have found the runway photo. With 137 looks shown finding this exact one from the handful of shots that are out there of the collection is almost miraculous. In addition to tall of that I have included a snap of the original sketch and fabric swatches from the boxed book set "Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: L'oeuvre Integral 1962-2002". The dress has so much structure and form to it but once on the body it sits just perfectly and transforms into something magical.  It is an exceptional and well documented example of Laurent's Haute Couture work that he was doing during this time period.

A silk taffeta in a jeweled toned fuchsia sweeps across the top of the bodice and then extends down to form each sleeve. The fabric is gathered and ruched down the length of each arm. The shoulders are left bare to balance out the volume underneath and have that expanse of skin for a touch of sensuality. Under the fucshia is a wide band of a  slightly metallic copper silk that goes from the top of the bust the the slightly dropped waist. The silk has been gathered along each side to create soft pleats that wrap around you. The skirt comes out from under that in a series of soft gathers that open up to allow it to be quite wide by the time it reaches the hem. The underskirt is made from a pale purple silk and that is covered in a top layer of French black lace. The lace is hand made and has a stunning floral design set within medallions. These are repeated throughout the lace to create the beautiful pattern that you see. I love that the bottom edge of the lace follows the curving shape of the design that is in the lace. To finish Yves wrapped a wide green silk ribbon around the waist. This unusual colour choice is spectacular when you see it all together and on the body. This is a spectacular example of his work and a piece you would only ever normally see in a museum. Excellent condition 

Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk. There is a built in silk covered elastic that is attached and wired right between the breast for a slight bit of support and then that wraps around you and hooks to close. It closes with a side set zipper and has an inner waist stay that hooks to close. There is a series of snaps above the zipper that run under the arm seam. Each sleeve zips to close at the wrist. The exterior layer of the skirt closes with its own a hand set side zipper. The silk ribbon belt is tacked into place on either side of the waist. On the interior of the skirt at the inner waist the fabric has been folded down and it looks like it would be possible to lengthen the skirt from there by just about 4". It looks to have been worn very little if at all.

Sleeves: 20" from where they start off the shoulder 
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of bodice to slightly dropped seam at the waist
Skirt: 38" from the slightly dropped seam at the waist to the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3598

Reference Photos: (1) Fall 1990 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway Collection.  /  (2-3) From the book "Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: L'oeuvre Integral 1962-2002"

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Isaac Mizrahi presented his first collection with a trunk show at Bergdorf Goodman's in 1987. By 1992 Chanel had bought a stake in the company and Isaac's name was everywhere. He was doing custom work for clients and Hollywood on top of his mainline. In 1995 Isaac was the subject of the movie 'Unzipped' based on his Fall 1994 collection. He is known as much for his personality as he was for his clothing. The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) recognized him with the Perry Ellis Award (now called the Swarovski Emerging Talent Award) in 1988 and the women's wear designer of the year award in 1989. This is a fantastic example of how he could do very luxe evening wear and I love it.

My client worked one on one with Issac when she had this dress made for herself. It is stunningly beautiful. The dress is made to demi-couture standards and to the best of my clients knowledge it is the only one ever made. The bodice is amazing. It is strapless and then the cups are heavily covered with black beads mixed with prong set black glass crystal rhinestones. They are so densely set together that it creates this fantastic 3 dimensional feel. I love that the bead work continues to the sides and then all the way to meet at the back zipper. The top of the bodice is set on a curve and the cups are shaped. The dress falls from directly under the bust and is cut to skim past the waist and hips. The dress is covered in a fine black lace set that over a inner nude silk lining. From a distance this gives the effect that you are covered in just a layer of lace. Once past the hips the skirt sweeps outwards and flares with a ton of volume. Underneath the lower skirt there are layers of attached tulle to help keep the volume. The extra fabric lets it move around you with your slightest move. It is even better in person. Just gorgeous. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a two layers of a nude silk. The skirt has additional tulle built in around the hem to help hold the shape. The bodice has a built in inner corset that closes with its own set of hook and eye and the dress closes over that with a back zipper. Some small marks to the inside of the hems otherwise pristine. 

Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam with an approx A-B cup
Inner waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 56" from top of bodice to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3564

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Loris Azzaro launched his label in 1967 and quickly defined his trademark looks by using ornate fabrics and avant garde ways of defining the body. Some of the most beautiful women in the world wore his clothing including Marisa Berenson, Raquel Welch, Jane Birkin, Sophia Loren, Brigitte Bardot and Tina Turner. It was a label that defined sexiness and had a certain French flare that women world-wide loved. By the seventies and eighties he was experimenting with volume and proportions and new fabrics that at the time were all cutting edge. This is a stunning example of his work during the late seventies, early eighties period. An all sequin version of the dress was worn by the French-italian singer Dalida that same year. This is a label that I really love and am always happy to find pieces of.

This is a killer dress. It is really one that will come to life once on an actual body and I hope the photos convey enough of how fabulous it is because when worn this one will be even better. The entire body of the dress is made out of a black ribbon finish with silk organza ribbons set on to the base in a curving design done to suggest flowers worked through it. Each flower design is finished with a series of curved and looped rows of glossy black sequins. This covers you from where it sits in a curving sweetheart neckline above the breast down to the top of the hips.  Where it meats the skirt it is cut on an angle, which softens the line and adds shape. This part of the dress is entirely opaque and shaped to give you curves. He then used a silk chiffon over the top of the chest and down the back where it dips into a low scoop. An open keyhole runs down the back for a hint of skin. Each sleeve is cut to be wide and full and the chiffon lets you have a glimpse of your arm through it. The cuffs sit under all that volume and they are done in the same ribbon lace and sequin fabric as the bodice. The rest of the dress is made from a bias cut silk chiffon that sits and drapes beautifully around you as you move. It falls from under the bodice and is pretty amazing in its own right. There is an under skirt that acts as the lining and then panels of silk fall to the hem that are only attached around and under the body of the dress. This gives them complete freedom to move so when you walk the panels will float and move around you with the slightest bit of air. It is really gorgeous. The inner skirt underneath keeps it from exposing everything but at the same time does give a suggestion of leg. If there was ever a dress that needed a body inside of it to bring it to life, this is it. It is stupendous once on. Excellent condition

Fully lined through the body and the rest is as described above. It closes with a back set zipper and then a black jet button at the back of the neck. Each sleeve has three jet buttons and loop closures. It appears to have been worn very little if at all

Sleeves: 24"
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 56" from top of shoulder to the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4040

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This gorgeous little dress is the ready-to-wear version of the Haute Couture dress that Yves created. I have included the runway photos of the couture version that walked the runway and that was featured in an editorial that year so that you can see how the dress looks on. The ready-to-wear version is a slightly simplified version of it but otherwise looks remarkably the same. He often did this with a few select pieces from his collections so that his non-couture clients had access to his work as well. The 1987 collection is one of my all time favourites and I am very pleased to have this wonderful example from it in the shop for you.

If you are a Yves Saint Laurent fan the second that you saw this dress you would have known that it was his work. This was a definitive look of the Couture collection and I love that he made a ready-to-wear version. I am also glad I have reference photos for you because if there was ever a dress that needed be seen on a body this is it. It really is not being done full justice on my dress form but it is gorgeous on the body. The dress sits off the shoulders to leave a bare expanse of skin. The sleeves are cut to follow the arm to just past the elbow. A pretty chiffon ruffle edges the entire neckline and then another ruffle curves around each wrist. The bodice skims over the bust and comes in at the waist. Under that the skirt flares out dramatically and is quite full. The front of the skirt is cut to the knee, or just above depending on your height, and then the edges of the skirt curve down and around to a full length at the back. The fullness and the length change give it a ton of movement when you move. The fabric is a segment in itself. It is made from a black silk net backed by a black silk tulle. Then onto the top net layer is a design made of black raffia. This gives the dress an incredible texture and the raffia catches the light fantastically. It also means that the parts of the dress that are not lined have a touch of transparency which is very sexy. This is an incredible piece of Yve's history and an absolutely gorgeous dress. Excellent condition with a minor note to review below 

Lined in a layer of tulle as described above and then there is a inner lining though the bodice and to just past the hips that is made out of a gold nude toned silk chiffon covered in a layer of black silk chiffon. It closes with a side set zipper. The raffia has small breaks in it here and there. I have never seen a vintage piece with raffia detailing that does not do this as it ages. It is inherent to the material and normal wear. 

Sleeves: 18"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam before it flares out
Length: approx 35" from natural shoulder to front hem, 52" to lowest pint of the back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3888

Reference Photos: (1-2) S/S 1987 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway Show.  /  (3) Brynja Sverrisdottir in S/S 1987 Yves Saint Laurent Couture. Photo by David Bailey.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Arnold Scaasi was born Arnold Isaacs in Montreal and the name Scassi is simply his own surname in reverse. He studied in Montreal and in Paris, apprenticed at the house of Paquin and then worked with the legendary Charles James. In 1964 he opened own couture salon. He dressed Hollywood stars like Lauren Bacall, Diahann Carroll and Elizabeth Taylor. He dressed several first ladies including Mamie Eisenhower, Hillary Clinton and both the Bush first ladies. He even once bragged that he refused to give Jackie clothes for free. He was the man behind the scandalous 1969 Barbra Streisand sheer trouser outfit that she collected her Oscar in, and he was presented with the Council of Fashion Designers of America Lifetime Achievement Award in 1996. The dress is from his main label and these were made to couture standards. It is incredible to see in person and it will really come to life once on an actual body. We found a very similar dress held at the Museum of Fine Arts Boston and it lets you see just how wonderful the dress will be once on. 

The dress is a showstopper. It is made out of a deep red coloured lace that is then detailed with cording that wraps around the edges of the floral design on the lace. Then he added tiny little rhinestones that are fused to the fabric of the larger flower patterns to give the dress an subtle bit of added glitz. The bodice is cut to skim over you with an inner silk lining in the same shade of red. The sleeves and neckline at both the back and the front are not lined so you get a little glimpse of the skin underneath the lace. The waist is not seamed so there is no line to break the eye. It simply comes in to suggest shape and then flares out to the skirt underneath. The skirt skims over the hips and then widens out as it nears the floor. I love the high low effect that the skirt has. It is cut to be shorter at the front and then the hem curves back and around you where it extends out to a trained effect at the back. All of the edges are scalloped to follow the pattern and shape of the designs in the lace. The inner construction of this dress is as good as the exterior. It is fully lined in a red silk and then the back of the skirt has an added layer of stiffened net tulle to help hold the shape and volume. The inside is exquisitely constructed and it is all hand finished. This is a stunning dress. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a fine deep red silk. The skirt is finished with attached inner tulle skirting. It closes with a hand set back metal zipper. At some point a repair was done to the edge of the inner tulle of the skirt ad there is an area missing in the tulle just above the hem. This does not affect the dress in anyway. Otherwise looks to have been worn very little if at all. 

Sleeves: 24"
Shoulders: no defined seams
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 45" from neck to front hem, 64" to back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD3813

Reference Photos: Fall 1986 Arnold Scaasi dress from the Museum of Fine Arts Boston collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.