The exact twin of this dress was shown on the Fall runway for 2006 for Look 61. 2006 was an important year in Oscar's history. This is the same year that Parsons awarded him with the Lifetime Achievement Award at their 58th Annual Benefit and Fashion Show. In Vogue's review of the collection journalist Nicole Phelps said in part; 'While other designers flit from one influence to another, Oscar de la Renta has made a four-decade-long career of staying true to his brand of ladylike elegance'. On the runway the dress was worn by model Liya Kebede and it was styled with maximum simplicity. It was just Liya in all her beauty and this stunning gown. Her makeup was barely there and they did not even add an earring to detract from her beauty or the beauty of the dress. It was a stunning moment and I am happy to have the runway clip included here so that you can see just how beautifully the dress moves. 

This Oscar de la Renta dress is stunning. It is red carpet worthy and would even make an amazing wedding piece for the bride looking for a non-traditional choice or as an alternative dress in a more extended wedding celebration. It is in fabulous condition. It is coming from the same estate of a woman I am just starting to go through who was personal friends with Oscar and she bought some of his most beautiful pieces. The dress is made from yards and yards of a black silk brocade that has a vivid teal blue pattern woven through the fabric. The silk he chose is just incredible. It has a black base with beautiful motifs woven through the silk. They become a design element in themselves. The silk is just heavy enough to hold the shape and structure of the dress but even with all of that fabric it is not so heavy that it is uncomfortable to wear. It has a full built in boned corset inside the bodice so you don't have to worry about additional underpinnings. I did add a crinoline to the dress for some of these photos so that you can get an idea of just how full the skirt is and see its full shape. I also photoed it without a crinoline so that you can see how it falls on its own. The bust is strapless and fitted with high peaks on each side of the bodice. They curve toward the centre with a scalloped pattern at the edge. It hugs the body, curving in at the waist, and then hugs over the top of your hips. The seaming is all done on the vertical to create that beautiful shape and give the the dress a sense of added length. It is cut to follow and highlight the curves of your body to below the hip. At each hip there is a panel of fabric added to create a fantastic curved ruffle. This acts like a modern day pannier and is quite a beautiful detail. The skirt flows directly out from the bodice with no seam at the waist to break the line. It is cut to sit slightly more sleek and flat at the front and then you have all that wonderful volume starting at each hip and going around to the back. The back of the dress is very dramatic. It is trained so that it flows out behind you in a dramatic swoop of fabric. There is a wide inner band of stiffened netting that circles the hem to help hold the skirt up and keep the shape rather then have it just drag behind you. The upper back is left bare and it is just impossibly wonderful. Those details combined with that spectacular colour make it one of the best gowns I have seen from this time period. It is a stunning example of Oscar's work. Excellent condition.

Unlined with ribbon finished seams. There is a full built in corset that closes with its own zipper and then the dress closes over that with a hidden set zipper. A wide band of stiffened netting finishes the hem as mentioned above. There is an inner grosgrain waist stay that hooks to close. I see a break in the silk that covers the interior netting at the hem but it is inside the dress so does not show at all. Tagged a size 2. 

Bust: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 53.5" from top of bodice to front hem, 75" to back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-SML

Item# DD3861

Reference Photos/Video: Fall 2006 Oscar de la Renta Runway Collection, Look 61. Model: Liya Kebede.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The Chanel Cruise collections have an interesting history. Gabrielle Chanel actually sailed and her love of the sport led to her inception of a 'cruise' collection in the 1920s. She was not the first to come up with this concept but hers were among the first to show a complete collection in a fully fledged show. They eventually fell off in popularity and it was not until Karl Lagerfeld took over Chanel that the cruise collections started again. I have had a version of this dress in the shop before and I added the photos of that one on me here. The scarf on this one is longer as is the back train so has even more drama. It is a very easy to wear dress with lots of impact, and of course, Chanel is never a bad idea. 

This Chanel dress is from the 2002 Cruise collection and it is phenomenal. It successfully marries an unexpected stretch jersey fabric choice with insets and draped panels of silk chiffon. The cut is pure evening, while the fabric has a more relaxed feel. This makes it wonderfully easy to wear and very comfortable once on the body. The colour of the dress is a deep midnight blue that almost appears to be black in certain lights. The fabric is light in weight but with enough substance to hold the shape and give it the wonderful curving shape through torso and the skirt that you see. The bodice of the dress is suspended by straps that curve over each shoulder.  One shoulder has looping panels of silk chiffon that you just fall over your shoulder. This panel then falls down the back of the dress all the way to the floor and a little past the hem for a very dramatic feel. The bodice is more fitted and a draped silk chiffon panel curves over it on both the front and back. The skirt is cut to hug your curves over the waist and hips. It then narrows in until it flares out in a dramatic expanse of chiffon and jersey at the hem. The back flares out behind you in a bit of a train and the bottom half of the skirt has a more transparent feel with its chiffon panels that are inset in points all-around the bottom portion of the dress. The movement that all these elements of the dress has once it is on is incredible. The double C logo sits on the top of one shoulder strap for the perfect finish. The construction is immaculate and it looks to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a matching blue silk chiffon and it zips to close at the side with a hidden set zipper. The fabric does have some stretch. It is tagged a Chanel 40. The fabric does have stretch and give so may accommodate a frame more towards a size large as defined by my size chart below 

Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 59" from top of shoulder to front hem, 69" to the longest point at the back

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3850

Reference Photos: Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon. Cherie is wearing a Magnetic Midnight X Shrimpton Couture 'Star Bright' Headpiece - available on the site here >

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

John Anthony is an award-winning American fashion designer best known for simple, elegant clothing with a strong sense of chic. His work veers towards minimalism, with sharp tailoring, striking evening wear being his signature. He is renowned for his cutting and tailoring. From the day that he launched his atelier in 1971 his design philosophy is a fusion of function and purpose. The function is his logical, wearable approach; the purpose, his pared-down ideas. As a designer, he considers it his job to make things easy for the customer. He designs with focus and a narrow palette for both day and night, so items can easily intermingle. He uses natural fabrics and is noted for contradictory daywear fabrics in his evening collections. In the early 70’s he was one of the first designers to promote the idea of easy-to-travel clothes that resist wrinkling. By 1976, he was showing soft, liquid separates in muted colours that became his trademark and received 2 Coty awards, one in 1972 and one in 1976, as recognition. 

His business was all done on a made to order basis. That means the majority of pieces you will find are a one-off, or if there are similar pieces, very few of each piece exist. This personal attention to each dress is clearly seen in the workmanship of his pieces. His work is very expensive and beaded pieces did, and still do, retail for over $10,000. His work is a personal favourite of mine and I am thrilled to offer this exclusive nine piece capsule collection of pieces and samples that John pulled from his own archives to share with you. 

This is a dress that when you see it in person seems impossible to have the level of detail that is does on the silk and netting fabric. It is magical in person. The dress is made from a beige nude silk chiffon through the body and then the upper bust and back are made out of a nude silk netting. It is cut to skim over the body with a suggestion of a waist worked in by vertical seaming. The netting above the front edge of the bodice curves up to the shoulders and then down the back. The back is dipped very low so you see your lower back peek through the netting. Onto the netting is a design that reminds me of coral in the way that it has been executed. A fine silver colour metal thread is first used to create the organic feel of the pattern. Then onto that is a dense application off silver sequins, soft pastel blue beads and rhinestones. These are applied thickly enough that they sit up and off the silk to give a 3D effect. They run over the entire dress and over the netting as well. When this is on the body the effect that this creates is astonishing. I think it is one of the most beautiful textile examples I have ever seen. A long slit up the side allows a flash of leg to show when you walk or sit. It is magnificent. Besides being a very wearable dress for any special evening  this would make a stunning wedding choice for the bride looking for something not as traditional or as an option for an event over a wedding weekend. Excellent condition with a minor note below.

Fully lined in a node silk chiffon and closes with a hidden side set zipper. One of the shoulders has a Velcro close to help get in and out of it. There is a very tiny break in the net near one arm hole at the front and two teeny stress areas near a seam. Please see the photos after the label shot.

Bust: the front covers to 16" flat across and the sides are open right beside the bust
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 54" from top of shoulder to hem
Slit: 24" from hem up

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS

Item# DD3833

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

John Anthony is an award-winning American fashion designer best known for simple, elegant clothing with a strong sense of chic. His work veers towards minimalism, with sharp tailoring, striking evening wear being his signature. He is renowned for his cutting and tailoring. From the day that he launched his atelier in 1971, his design philosophy is a fusion of function and purpose. The function is his logical, wearable approach; the purpose, his pared-down ideas. As a designer, he considers it his job to make things easy for the customer. He designs with focus and a narrow palette for both day and night, so items can easily intermingle. He uses natural fabrics and is noted for contradictory daywear fabrics in his evening collections. In the early 70’s he was one of the first designers to promote the idea of easy-to-travel clothes that resist wrinkling. By 1976, he was showing soft, liquid separates in muted colours that became his trademark and received 2 Coty awards, one in 1972 and one in 1976, as recognition. 

His business was all done on a made to order basis. That means the majority of pieces you will find are a one-off, or if there are similar pieces, very few of each piece exist. This personal attention to each dress is clearly seen in the workmanship of his pieces. His work is very expensive and beaded pieces did, and still do, retail for over $10,000. His work is a personal favourite of mine and I am thrilled to offer this exclusive nine piece capsule collection of pieces and samples that John pulled from his own archives to share with you. 

This dress is a little extra special as Janet Jackson wore a later version of the dress for her Today's Black Women cover. I included it as it is always fascinating to see the progression of a design. It also has some similarities to the ivory one we have in this capsule that is made from a similar lace and sequin fabric. The dress is very light in weight and it is made from the most beautiful fabric. A deep blue netted lace is placed over a silk chiffon lining in the same colour.  The lace is then detailed with thousands of deep blue iridescent sequins that run over the entire length of the dress. This allows the dress to catch the light from every angle and it creates the most beautiful effect in the light. It is strapless and the top of the bodice curves down into a sweetheart shape to emphasize the bust. It cleverly closes down the front with a hidden zipper and hidden snaps running under the edges of the fabric. I love how all of the edges follow the curving pattern of the lace so that everything has that touch of romance and detailing. To wear it you just wrap it around you and close the snaps down the front. The snaps run to about the mid-thigh and then below that a subtle slit is created so that you see a flash of leg when you move or sit. The lower hem is set on a curve so comes up slightly at the front and is longer at the back. The skirt is lined in a silk chiffon and this gives it a slight transparency in the light. Very sexy.  I love the little rosette created and placed to one side at the waist for a touch of detailing. No detail is too small with John's dresses. It is incredible. It is wonderful. Excellent condition.

Fully lined in a hand set deep blue silky rayon through the bust and a silk chiffon through the skirt. It closes at the front with a hidden set zipper and a series of hidden fabric covered snaps. Lightly boned through the bodice. Hand finished throughout. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. 

Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 9" from the top of the bodice to waist
Length: 46" from the top of the bodice to longest point of the back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3831

Reference Photo: Janet Jackson in John Anthony for Today's Black Women, June/July 1998.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

James Galanos was just 27 years old when he launched his first label called Galanos Originals in 1951. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. when you convert that to modern dollars and realize that it would be just under 30k for his upper range pieces. Part of the reason for those high price tags was that his ready-to-wear was made to couture standards. The workmanship and craft put into them were made to a level that was on par with the official French couturiers. Galanos was a master cutter and draper. Grace Kelly was an early fan and other couturiers looked to his work as inspiration. His work is held in all of the major museums around the world and he is one of my personal favourite designers. 

This particular dress reminds me of the pink colour blocked one that was worn so famously by Gloria Vanderbilt. It has that same feel created by his use of different panels of colour through the skirt. This is a technique that he used on several occasions and in several fabrics. The Vanderbilt dress for example was a silk chiffon and I have seen a darker, more column cut version in a silk jersey. This one is made from a silk taffeta and that choice of fabric keeps the dress extremely light while allowing it to have that wonderful volume that you see. The dress is extraordinary and is a testament to the couture construction techniques that he utilized in his work. The bodice is fitted with a slight sweetheart feel to the neckline. It is suspended by two tiny silk straps. The top port of the dress is lined in a silk but has no inner boning. It is meant to skim and hug the body underneath rather then to force a shape. The waist nips in and the skirt is set to feel very full with multiple soft gathers around the waist to create the fullness that you see. The skirt is made of four panels of silk taffeta, at the front here is a green on one side and a chocolate colour panel on the other. At the back both panels are the same blue as the bodice. All of the edges are finished with a gold cord that has been hand applied stitch by stitch. At the front the skirt is split quite high so that when you walk or sit you get an very unexpected flash of bare leg. The silk taffeta is so light that when you walk the skirt has a billowing effect behind you that it just magical. There are no extra underskirts added for these shots. All the volume of the skirt that you see has been created by the cut and the fabric alone. Around the waist the fabric from the silk has been gathered and held in place by more of that gold cording and then the edges of the fabric is set in an elaborate series of ruffles above that. This creates the prettiest ruffled finish that wraps all the way around you, cinches you in, and adds a pretty touch of romance. The work is all hand finished and all the inner seams have a beautiful ribbon finish. This is truly a stunning dress. Excellent condition  

Unlined and closes with a back zipper. Ribbon edge interior seams. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. 

Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 17" from top of shoulder to waist seam
Skirt: 42" from waist to hem
Front slit: 26" from hem up

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS

Item# DD3736

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

True Haute Couture pieces by Chanel are an extraordinary find as they are so very rare and hard to come by. This one, like several other of the Haute Couture pieces in the shop at the moment, are from one of my clients whose mother purchased the majority of her Couture pieces between 1973 to the mid and late seventies. This particular suit has the added provenance of having its twin photoed for L'Officiel. It is an incredibly beautiful example of the work that the Chanel ateliers were doing during this time period.

The suit is constructed from an absolutely stunning deep blue and white silk that is like a heavier in weight version of one of their silk scarves. It is beautiful and it is easy to see why it is such a well documented piece. The jacket is a simple box cut that has more softness to it then versions of the suit that you would see made from their heavier boucle. It buttons down the front and I love the added embellishment of a golden lions head that sits on the top of each button. These same buttons also adorn each of the two low set front pockets that are both fully functional and beautifully done. The sleeves are slightly cropped and each end in a white silk cuff. The collar is notched and it is also finished in a white silk. What is remarkable about the collar is that you can actually remove the white silk portion and the collar underneath is the same blue and white silk as the rest of the jacket. This simple change gives the suit an entirely different feel and makes it that much more versatile. I love the hand painted feeling of the dots that cover the silk and how the white of them pops so beautifully against the blue. Inside, the jacket it is meticulously hand lined in a white silk. Circling around the hem is the famous signature Chanel gold chain that adds a subtle even weight all the way around and helps to keep the lines of the jacket perfectly in place. The skirt is cut with a slight flare is it nears the hem and has a series of flat knife pleats on both sides. The waist line is finished to lie flat against the body and the pleats don't open up until after the hip. Once they do open you you get a soft flare to the bottom of the skirt. This is classic Chanel right down to the chain that is stitched by hand into the hem of the jacket. It is exceptional. Excellent condition with a very small note below.

Both pieces are fully lined in a hand set, fine white silk. The interior hem of the jacket is finished with their signature gold metal chain. The skirt closes with a series of snaps along with a hook & eye at the waist. The jacket buttons down the front. Both piece are hand finished to couture standards. Proper couture labels present. Sourced from the original couture client. There is one white dot on the jacket that has a touch of darkening to it. Please see the photo after the label shots. Minor grubbiness to cuffs and collar from natural wear and aging.

Jacket
Sleeve: 20.5"
Shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 22.5" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 26" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3727

Reference Photo: S/S 1977 Chanel Haute Couture, L'Officiel

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

One of the key elements of the spring 1973 collection was the snap closures that Courreges used. They played a two fold role in that they were a functional element that actually acted as closures and they where also a decorative design feature that helped to highlight his signature cuts. In the runway reference photo that I have included here, you can see the same snap detailing. This is a beautiful and rare example of his Haute Couture work from this time period that still feels fresh and wearable even now.

The suit is made from the classic wool that Courreges was using for his pieces during this time period. It has enough weight to hold the sharp angular lines of the suit but without adding bulk or making it feel too heavy to wear for our modern aesthetics. The colour is a beautiful deep blue that has been captured well in these photos. The wool has  a slight texture to it. The stitching and the snaps have all been dyed to match the colour of the suit. This lets you see the seaming and detail but in a way that gives you the full picture all at once. The jacket is beautifully cut. It is meant to skim over the body with just a touch of a boxy feel to it. The sleeves are capped and the shoulders are seamed but have no additional padding. The shape is all created by the cut and perfect tailoring techniques. To wear it you simply slip the jacket on and it snaps into place down the front. The top stitched seaming detail is done to follow the lines of the jacket and become their own design element. The skirt is spectacular. It is cut to be fitted around the waist and then is cut on an angle to the hem. I have photoed it flat for you as well as on the dress form so that you get a better feel for the shape. It has an unusual way to close. There are snaps that run down each side and you can fully unsnap it on both sides. The bottom two snaps at the hem are decorative so that you get a bit of a vent on either side but all the snaps above it open. This lets you open the sides up and leave the resulting slit as high up as you dare. It is an incredible example of his work. The exterior of the suit is in excellent condition and there is a note below regarding the lining

Both pieces are fully lined in a white silk and close with the snaps as described above. There is an area of fabric missing from the interior of the skirt. It is stable and does not effect the wearing of the suit. Tagged a vintage Courreges 00

Jacket
Shoulders: 12" across
Bust: 16.5" flat across the back from seam to seam
Waist: 14.5" flat across the back from seam to seam
Length: 18" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 12" flat across the back from seam to seam
Hips: 17" flat across the back from seam to seam
Length: 22.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing equivalent: XXS-XS

Item# DD1091

Reference photo: Andre Courreges Haute Couture Spring 1973

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival

Christian Lacroix launched his Haute Couture house in 1987 and his work was instantly revered world wide. He defined an era and he was crowned the King of Couture. A ready-to-wear line soon followed along with perfumes and menswear. His collections were always exotic and lavish affairs. He drew his inspirations from across the decades and I doubt there was ever a more high glamour couturier. This dress is very special and a stunning example of his work during this time period. It has all the signature Lacroix drama that you could ask for. It comes to me from the original couture client. The twin of this piece walked the runway that season. My client ordered hers in a slightly different shade of silk taffeta and the atelier changed the colour of the stone in the jewelled brooches to match this fabric selection. His couture pieces rarely come to market and this is an exception example of his work. 

The dress is beautiful. It is made out of an iridescent silk taffeta that changes colour slightly depending on how the light hits it. It can go from a deep bronze colour to an iridescent blue tone. Each sleeve is long and slim and cut to end just above the wrist. A row of five silk covered buttons runs up each wrist with working silk loops. The body of the dress is cut into a simple sheath and then it has been gathered up along one side and secured in place with that incredible huge brooch. The brooch is a gold metal circle that has large golden topaz glass crystals mixed with brilliant blue glass stones. The neckline folds over in a curve of fabric and is set very wide across the shoulders, angling down to leave one shoulder bare. The back is tremendously beautiful. That wide neckline from the front dips and angles down at the back to leave a large part of your back exposed. I love how the silk takes on a draped and wrapped effect as it is brought down to the point where the bare expanse of skin ends. Another huge jewelled brooch has then been pinned in place there to anchor the draping. Below that a stiffened panel of silk flares out dramatically to one side in a half bow effect. I have included some shots of the clever way the dress and back close and you can see the meticulous work that has been put into the piece to ensure it drapes perfectly. Excellent condition with a couple of small notes below

Fully lined in a black silk organza and closes with an elaborate mix of a zipper, snaps and hooks at the back. One flaring panel loops through the other. It is in wonderful condition with a few small things to note from normal wear. There is rubber ribboning along the neckline to hold it in place and this has changed colour here and there. There is one stone missing at the bottom of the front brooch. The brooches are removable and you can see little marks on the fabric under them where the pin has been pushed through in different places. There are a couple teeny pinhead marks on the fabric where the brooches have caught on the silk near the brooches. Very minor. It is really in stunning condition. Unlabeled and sourced from the original couture client

Sleeves: 19.5"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 36" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3602

Reference Photo: Fall/Winter 1990 Christian Lacroix Haute Couture Runway.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is a dress that was sent to me by my couture client and this one was one that she had custom made for her for to attend an event in 1998. It is made out of a fine silk satin that has a slight sheen to it that goes perfectly with its icy blue tone. The colour is wonderful and in real life has a touch more depth and vibrancy to it. The photos are very close but it is even better in person. The dress is strapless and made to hug the bodice. It is completely boned and shaped inside and then the interior work is finished with a panel of the same fabric so that it is very comfortable to wear. The waist nips in and then the skirts very full and is cut so that the back is longer then the front for a grand, slightly trained, ball gown effect. The way that it is made is extraordinary. The silk has been set in seamed horizontal rows. Two for the bodice and four for the skirt. Within each of the rows the silk has been meticulously folded into wide set angled pleated lines that create a fascinating effect that runs over the entire dress. The skirt has several layers of attached underskirts that give the dress the shape that you see. I did not add any additional crinolines under the dress. The volume is all built in and it is fantastic. There is a spray of bead work done in silver thread and rhinestones at the waist for the perfect pretty finish. This would make an amazing bridal piece for someone not wanting to wear traditional white or as an alternate dress for an extended wedding weekend event. Excellent condition with a minor note below

Fully lined through the nodule and has full boning all the way around. It closes with a back zipper and the inner waist star hooks to close. There are multiple layers of skirting built in. Two silk layers finished with a stiffened label around the hem and then a multi-layer of tule between those. Some grubbiness to the inner hem only that you can see in the last photo here. It does close properly at the back - it was just a touch small on my dress form 

Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam with room to a B cup
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 10.5" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 44.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3590

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I have had a version of this dress in the past in a paler icier blue so when I saw this one with it's deep sapphire blue colour I had to have it for the shop. It is a beautiful and romantic bias cut silk chiffon dress by the great American couturier Oscar de la Renta. It is constructed from multiple layers of a lightweight, slightly textured, silk chiffon in the most stunning deep sapphire colour. The bodice of the dress is gathered in an elaborate ruching of silk that meets in the center in a thick braided detailing. This runs down the centre of the front of the bodice. The strapless neckline above that is cut into a rounded sweetheart shape that is very flattering. The bodice is fitted and cinches in at the waist with interior boning to help hold the shape. The skirt cascades to the floor at the back and at the front it curves up higher so you get a flash of leg when you move. It is made up of three full layers of weightless silk chiffon that float over and around the body to give it the feel of airiness and lightness. The lightness of the silk gives it a billowing effect when you move and walk that is stupendous. A really lovely and romantic dress in one of the best blue colours I have seen. Excellent condition

The dress is fully lined through the bodice in a hand set blue silk and the three layers of silk chiffon the skirt is made of serve as its lining. The dress closes with a side painted metal zipper. Hand finishes. I see one tiny area on the side off the skirt that has darkened. 

Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 48" from top of strapless dress to back hem, 37" to the front hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3583

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

In 1993 Oscar de la Renta took over as Creative Director at Balmain where he designed the Haute Couture collections until 2002. The house had been floundering at that point and he had a huge impact on the reviving the sales of the couture pieces, mainly by catering to private clients, much like Balmain had originally. The runway photo that we found shows the dress layered over a printed pant but all of the subsequent references of it match the set to the one we have here with the pants in the same striped silk as the top piece. The twin of this set was a part of the 2016 ‘Oscar de la Renta: The Retrospective’ exhibition at de Young Museum, San Francisco, curated by André Leon Talley where it is referred to as being 'evening pyjamas'. The exhibit was broken into different themed galleries and this dress was a part of the garden themed section. Oscar was an avid gardener and the works in this section took inspiration from that life long passion. And it holds an extra special significance because the one shown in the exhibit was loaned to the museum by Annette de la Renta, Oscar's wife and muse, giving it an extra layer of personal connection to its provenance. The dress also appears in the book 'Oscar de la Renta: His Legendary World of Style' by Talley. The Met Museum also holds one in their permanent collections and then this one is the third.

In an interesting twist, one of the other dresses that was a part of the garden section of the exhibit was a striped OLDR dress from 1999 and my client had a that dress as well. It is listing along with this one today. It is incredible coincidence to have both dresses in at the same time with that shared bit of exhibit history behind them and both are exceptionally beautiful.

It is extraordinary to think that Oscar never produced a Haute Couture line under his own label and these few short years at Balmain gives us a chance to see just how talented he really was at all levels. Like most Haute Couture, this is a set that only truly comes to life when it is on an actual body. No matter how good it looks in the photos, the impact it has in real life and how it moves once on is undeniably beautiful. The fabric that both piece are made from is a fine chine silk taffeta that hearkens back to the 18th century with its washed pale blue striping. All of the edges are finished in that same fabric but for the edges it has been tightly knife pleated. These form a wide pleated ruffle all around the collar, down the front and around each cuff. One pale baby pink stripe runs along the edge of the ruffle for a magical bit of colour against the blue. That pink is then picked up on each hand made button that runs down the front and is set on each cuff. The buttons are amazing. They are hand made and they each have a tiny, perfect sprig of hand embroidered pink flower splayed across their tops. Under the evening coat, are a pair of silk taffeta pants in the same fabric. The pants are cut very simply with a flat front and no banding at the waist. They run in a slightly tapered cigarette shape and land just about the ankle depending on your height. Over this is that amazing evening coat that has the lines of a formal court dress worked into its cut. It is created with a nod to the decadence of the eighteenth century with a high pleated collar and softly defined shoulders. The sleeves are long and slim, ending in an elaborate ruffled cuff. It skims over the bodice and tapers in at the waist. The buttons to close it run from the collar to the waist at the front. From that point under the bottom button the front is completely open so that when you walk you see the pants underneath. The back of the coat is a work of art. The skirt trails out behind you, falling from that curved horizontal seam at the waist where the fabric is gathered in soft folds. It is tremendously full and when you walk it causes the skirt to billow out behind you. Haute Couture is always about the details and I love that for the seam that runs across the low back, Oscar used a fine pink silk piping to define the seam and where the gathers of the lower skirting are set. It is the perfect detail to tie in with the pink at the front. This is everything you want to see in a Haute Couture piece; elegance, refinement and a dash of coquetry. It is ornate but sophisticated and feels wonderfully light and perfectly suited to his love of nature and botanical themes. “A garden is probably the most spiritual and pure of joys. It’s a communion with nature and beauty in the most simple and fundamental form.”– Oscar de la Renta. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition. 

Both pieces are unlined and all the interior work is done by hand to Haute Couture standards. The pants close with a hidden set side zipper. There is a built in gusset that is pristine. The evening coat/dress closes with a hand set zipper and then a panel that snaps into place over that with silk, hand covered snaps. Hand made, light shoulder pads. A series of hand embroidered buttons down the front. The inner waist stay hooks to close and you could adjust the hooks if needed or wear it unhooked if you needed the extra room. Each cuff zips to close with a hidden set zipper and has three of the same buttons as decoration. I see one pinhead mar near a front button and a nick out of the fabric near the seam under the arm. One inner seam on either side looks like it was slightly adjusted. There is an extra button sewn to an inner seam. Proper Couture tags on both pieces and the coat one has its couture tape underneath numbered 173 470. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Sourced from the original couture client 

Evening Coat Dress
Sleeves: 23.5"
Shoulders: 15.25"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15" flat across from side seam to side seam, inner waist stay hooks at 14"
Hips: open
Length: 56" from neck to shortest point of the front hem, 62" to longest point of the back hem

Pant
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 39.5" from top of bodice to waist
Inseam: 28" from inner seam to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3568

Reference Photos: (1) 1998 Balmain Silk taffeta coat and pants from the book "Oscar de la Renta: His Legendary World of Style" by Andre Leon Talley.  /  (2) 1998 Balmain Ensemble from The MET Collection Online.  /  (3-4) Spring 1998 Balmain Haute Couture Runway. / (5-6) Photos from the ‘Oscar de la Renta: The Retrospective’ exhibition at de Young Museum, San Francisco. Curated by André Leon Talley.  /  (7) Photo from the book "Oscar De La Renta: The Retrospective" by Jennifer Park and Molly Sorkin.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

In the 1960s if you wanted to wear something with a dramatic flare then you chose the work of Ronald Amey. He was known for his original use of fabrics and colors and his dresses were priced into the thousands even in the 1960s. His career was very short-lived. From 1959-1969 he designed under the label Burke-Amey. Joseph Burke, his partner, took care of the business side of things. In 1970s he bought out Burke and renamed the company Ronald Amey where he continued to produce his dramatic clothing until the label shuttered in 1976. His clothing was of very high quality and he incorporated many couture level details into their construction. All of his pieces were sewn in-house at his New York atelier

One of his signatures was to combine bold colors, prints and fabrics in interesting, unusual ways and this dress is a splendid example of that. The colors are bold and the mix is dramatic. The bodice and sleeves are sheer orange printed silk chiffon that is layered over the same printed coral ribbon silk that you see used for the skirt. This gives the top a very couture and quirky feel. The neckline is cut wide across the collarbones and it is anchored by a wide band of blue silk satin that is top-stitched in gold thread. This curves around the neckline and then down the front on either side of the notched front. The panel continues past the seamed waist and runs down the center of the skirt where it ends with a large diamond of the same fabric in brown. More of the blue runs around the hem and then is used again for the cuffs on each sleeve. The combination of the orange, coral and blue is spectacular . The heavy dose of all those prints, colors and patterns should not work but it does. The perfect finish is the wide fabric belt made of the same blue as the banding and this wraps around the waist where you can cinch it in and leave it simple as I did or tie it in a far more elaborate way. The exterior is in excellent condition with a note about the lining to review below.

Fully lined in a bright peach silk throughout. Entirely hand finished. It closes with a front zipper and there are zippers on each cuff. The zippers stick a bit when you open and close them. There is shattering of the silk around each arm on the interior. The exterior fabrics are sound and show no wear at all. The exterior of the dress appears to have been worm very little. The dress is even better in person.

Sleeves: 22"
Shoulders: 16"
Bust: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15.5" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 40.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3478

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The Fall 1958 season was Yves Saint Laurent's second collection for the house of Dior. It was titled the 'Line Courbe - Silhouette en Arc' which translates to Curved Line - Arched Silhouette. In the book 'Dior Catwalk'  they have abnb excerpt from the original show notes that explain the inspiration behind the silhouettes on the show. They stated that 'The structure of this season's fashions is inspired by one of the fundamental lines of architecture, curved convex lines... the definitive curve of the well-marked rounded shoulder line, the softened curves of skirts and the semi-circle of Palladio's arcade as key characteristics.' Vogue said that the proportions 'were the newest look in Paris. This show is also spacial because it was only one of three shows in the entire Dior history (the first in 1954 under Christian Dior himself and the third decades pater for a cruise show), that after it was show in Paris it was then brought in its entirety to the Blenheim Palace. There is was presented to raise funds for the British Red Cross and the collection was presented to Princess Margaret and guests at Blenheim Palace. It was also the piece from the collection that season that was chosen for the cheeky ad campaign. In the campaign a model in the coat holds a a minature version of herself on her palm wearing the coat. The coat also appears in the book 'Dior: Yves Saint Laurent 1958-1960' which is a coffee table sized book that is part of a series on each of the designers for Dior. The book series celebrates the houses 70th anniversary. The coat is in exceptional condition and it is an extraordinarily beautiful piece of fashion history. Yves Saint Laurent was at Dior for only a short time period; creating only six couture collections while there, which makes piece from his reign especially rare and an important part of not only Dior's history but of Yves as a designer as well since this would represent some of his very earliest work.  

The coat is made from a heavy, deep blue silk with a satin finish. The coat would have be considered to have been a ‘Petite Theatre’, a more formal evening coat, during this time period. A neat rounded collar wraps in a curve around the neck and closes just off to the side. This sits above a double row of buttons. The buttons have been hand made and covered in the same silk as the coat. Each button slips into a perfectly made button hole and all the work is done by hand. Pockets are hidden along the curving seams that are inset sightly towards the front of the coat so that the vertical line stays clean and simple. The back has tremendous volume and this fullness is created by a soft inverted pleat that opens from just under the back collar and extends down to the hem. Besides the volume this creates it also directly relates to the shapes that Yves intended the pieces in this collection to have. From the side, this gives it a bit of caped back feel and would have layered perfectly over the fuller backed skirts of the dresses in this collection. The silk that has been used is of the highest possible quality and the colour is an even darker shade of blue in person then how it photoed here. It appears to have been worn very little and is in outstanding condition. The proper numbered Haute Couture label is present and the coat is made entirely by hand to the standards demanded of Haute Couture. This is an exquisite example of Yves Saint Laurent's very earliest work with as a couturier and as the head of Dior. It is an outstanding piece of Haute Couture from one of the most important houses of our modern era. Excellent condition

Fully lined in hand set blue silk. It buttons to close at the front with silk covered buttons and has two hooks inside to secure in place. Hand done buttons and proper button holes. Pockets are hidden at each hip along the seams. The coat looks to have been worn very little if it all. The coat is meant to fit slightly oversized so should fit a variety of sizes. The proper Haute Couture label is present and it is numbered. Done with Haute Couture construction techniques.

Sleeves: 16"
Slightly dropped shoulders: 16"
Bust-hips: open
Length: 38.5" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG

Item# DD3601

Reference Photos: (1) Christian Dior ad, 1958.  /  (2-3) "Dior: Yves Saint Laurent 1958-1960", pages 108-109, published by Assoulin. 

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This dress is absolutely incredible and the workmanship that has been put into making it is just extraordinary. It really is one of the most phenomenal dresses I have ever had in the shop. Philip Hulitar designed under his own namesake label from 1949 to his retirement in 1964. He was known for his sophisticated cocktail dresses and evening gowns. Shortly after the launch of his label, a journalist wrote; 'The star of a gifted designer has risen recently on the fashion horizon'. Prior to launching his own label, Mr Hulitar was the in-house designer and head of the women's dress division for Bergdorf Goodmans for 18 years.

This dress is really a thing of beauty and shows the high level of meticulous care put into the execution of design during this time period. The fabric is a high end, luxurious silk in a pale dusty blue. Onto this is a hand screened  custom floral design. The print is set onto the silk in a soft washed feel like a watercolor painting. The silk has then been meticulously hand pleated into rows of sharp knife pleats that are stacked one upon each other. They are set so that the pleats are facing upwards rather then facing down as you would typically see. This gives the fabric a slightly surreal edgy feel and as gravity slightly pulls them and opens them the lines of the body are exaggerated. It is really spectacular in person. The bodice is strapless and fitted. Inside it is boned and shaped. The silk is draped into place by hand draping it to closely follow every curve. It cinches in at the waist and then follows the curve of the hips and narrows at the hem The back is spectacular with a large half bow that sits above a tightly gathered ruffle. This begins at the low back and slowly tapers out just above the knees. Everything on this dress is done to create that highly sculptural shape. Overall excellent condition with some notes to review below

Fully lined in a cream silky rayon and closes with a hand set back painted metal zipper. The interior bodice is boned. The back bow snaps into place. I see some extremely minor pinholes along the one part of the top pf the bodice at the fold and some very minor watermarks on the silk near the hem. It has a area of fading on one hip that I have photoed and placed after the label photo for your review. It can be seen in some of the photos before that as well. You could perhaps shorten it to remove this area or just wear it as is and not worry about it. It is marked a lot lower in price then it would be but for this area.

Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam with an A to small B cup
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 39" from top of the bodice to the front hem, 41" to the back hem

Modern Sizing equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3214

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This beautiful Emilio Pucci dress is made out of one of his signature silk jerseys. Covering every square inch of it is a stunning print that is a mix of different tones of blue, grey and whites, all mixed together like a master. The bodice crosses over itself and is then detailed at the waist with a contrasting printed border. This border also circles the neckline for added detail. Each cuff is also finished with this contrasting print and covers each wide cuff that the sleeves end in. The cut is a simple and classic with a slight A-line cut as the skirt nears its hem. The sleeves are long and simple with a slight pouf to them. I love those wide cuffs that finish each sleeve off perfectly. This is a classic Pucci silhouette that is instantly recognizable and very sexy despite it not being super form fitting. I love all the contrasting print panels that give the cut visual definition. This mix of blues is always one of my favorite of his prints. They are just soft and pretty and suit pretty much any skin tone. Excellent condition.

Unlined and closes with a painted metal zipper at the side. Tagged a vintage Pucci 12 but of course, check the actual measurements. The fabric does have slight stretch. Each cuff closes with hidden set snaps

Sleeves: 27"
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 16-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13-14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from neck to middle of waist
Skirt: 28" from middle of waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD2718

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The original owner of this dress wore it to host a dinner party in 1989 but I do not know if she had purchased it that same season or from a slightly earlier season. There are hints of it from both the 1986 collection in terms of  some of the construction details and the 1988-89 collection in terms of color specifically. I have included reference photos for both those collections. Of course Haute Couture was always custom made for the client so would rarely be a specific copy anyway but it is nice to have a more narrow date range.

The dress is a stunning example of Valentino's work during this time period. It mixes a sense of restraint and elegance with the softness and sensuality that the silk gives it. You are entirely covered form neck to hem but the transparency of the silk through the billowing sleeves and upper shoulders hint at the skin underneath and keep the dress from feeling too demure. The bodice is a masterpiece in shaping and couture techniques. The silk here is entirely set and gathered by hand and immaculately stitched into place to create the soft pleats that curve over the bust and highlight your shape. Inside it is boned and shaped but not to the point where it feels constrictive, just so that it holds you in place and shapes you perfectly. The skirt flows out under that in four full layers of bias cut silk chiffon so that when you move the skirts seem to float around you. This is the type of gown that Valentino excelled at; refined elegance mixed with a luxurious fabric and finished with a master's touch of provocativeness and romance. The dress presents as excellent but does have some flaws. Please review the notes below.

The interior bodice is finished in muslin, lingerie netting, boned and molded through the bust. The sleeves and upper shoulders are unlined and the skirt is made from four full layers of silk. The interior bodice closes with series of hook and eye and the dress sips to close over that with a painted metal zipper. Each cuff buttons to close with two silk covered buttons and loops. Three buttons also sit at the top of the back neck just above the slit opening that starts just above the zipper of the corseted bodice. There are various discolored areas through the skirt that go through the layers. I have photoed the worst of them. There is so much fabric that once on these are almost invisible to the eye so it is wearable as is if you are OK with it being not 100% perfect. There are some very light faint versions of the same on the upper front above the corset and through the sleeves. I see one tiny repair near the hem at the back of the skirt. Priced well down from what it would be if perfect. Note for those that buy based on how it fits me that it was a little long through the bodice and big through the bust and waist on me.

Dress
Sleeves: approx 25"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 16.5" from top of neck to interior waist stay
Skirt: 45" from interior waist stay to hem

Matching ruffle edged shawl (photoed separately)
54" x 52"

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD3018

Reference Photos: (1) From the book "A Grand Italian Epic, Valentino", 1988/1989 collection  /  (2-3) The "Degradè" Dress from the Valentino Haute Couture 1986 collection. (4) Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon taken on location at JohnMel Stables 

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The color of this Pucci dress is wonderful. It is a beautiful shade of turquoise blue and the pops of pink and purple work perfectly against that backdrop. The cut is very flattering and forgiving and has a very romantic feel to it. This is not your typical stretch silk jersey dress that you see but it still has that fabulous Pucci print and feel. The sleeves are cut wide and full. Each ends with a ruffled detailing fro a pretty flounce. This same ruffle treatment is used at the hem of the skirt and helps give it lots of movement and an airy feel. I love the neckline - it has fabric ties that run all the way around the shoulders and you can adjust the neckline with them. They allow you to let it sit higher up or let them out wide enough to sit fully off the shoulders. It is very feminine but sexy at the same time. I love it. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a matching blue silk chiffon and closes at the side with a painted metal zipper. The shoulders can be adjusted with the ties that run through the upper edge.

Shoulders: adjustable
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: approx 16" from top of shoulder to waist
Skirt: 21" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD1866

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This unusual and striking Galanos dress dates to the late 1970s, early 1980s, and combines a silk twill with silk chiffon to create the layered print effect that you see. The entire dress is done in a combination of yellow and blue. The inner layer and skirt are an opaque silk twill. Over that, Galanos has then used a silk chiffon in the same two print. The two layers used this was give the pattern depth and play on the saturation of the color. The bodice has a high neck and soft drape over the bust. Each sleeve billows above the cuff and the shoulders are gathered. The back is left partially open with the slit that goes from neck to waist. The skirt has a straight cut with a side slit. There are two panels attached on either side and these meet and loop through an opening at the waist. This gives it a drape over the hip and fabric cascading down one side.  Excellent condition

The bodice is constructed from two layers of silk chiffon. The skirt is a made of a silk that is fully lined in a yellow tissue silk with silk chiffon draped overlay. The dress closes with a low painted metal zipper that starts at the waist. There are a series of hook and eye at the back of the neck and the chiffon in between is left open. Each sleeve closes with a fabric covered button.

Sleeves: 21"
Shoulder: approx 14"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 13" from neck to slight empire waist
Skirt: 41" from slight empire waist to hem

Modern Sizing equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD1119

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival