Guy Laroche began working for Jean Desses in 1949 and eventually launches his own Haute Couture label in 1957 as a full member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Parisienne.  He became known for his color sense and the young, sexy look of his clothes. In 1985 he won the Haute Couture Golden Thimble award and two years later he was awarded the insignia of Chevalier de L’Ordre de la Legion d’Honneur. His second Golden Thimble was given posthumously after his death in 1989. Michel Klein took over the couture division where he remained until 1996. This dress is from Klein's tenure as the Haute Couture director and label and it is a beautiful example of the work he was doing during his tenure there. Laroche once was quoted as saying “It is my intention to try and adapt haute couture to modern requirements: to make dresses that are simple and chic.” and I feel that this dress tries to live up to that thought while still maintaining the feel of couture during this mid-nineties.

This is the type of piece that is so bold and edgy that you will only ever find it in a Haute Couture piece. I feel like whoever ordered this one had it tweaked slightly from the runway presentation and made it better. The bodice is scooped across on a more graceful line (I don't love how it fits Kirsty Hume who is the model in the photo) and the back skirt feels longer. They also eliminated the bow at the front, opting instead for a single long panel falling at the back that matches the colour and fabric of the skirt. These small details add up to a big difference in how it presents. I also feel that the fit overall is far better then how it appears on the runway. It makes me wonder if there was a last minute substitution of the model for this piece, because in person the dress that I have here is a far better cut and fit overall then how it looks like in the runway shot. The dress is a mini dress that has an attached long panel on the skirt that wraps part way around you to leave the full front open under the mini skirt. The bodice is scooped wide and low at the front and made from a pale taupe silk. It extends down past the waist so a very short mini skirt that has a slight flare to it as it reaches the hem. The long skirt wraps around and is attached at the side of the waist. It is a soft olive toned green and done on that same rich heavy silk that has a slight satin finish. It falls to the floor in a long smooth drape of fabric. A wide silk cummerbund wraps around the waist to give shape. This narrows down at one end and hooks into place under a long swooping gold brooch which I believe is gold plated. The cummerbund has a long panel attached at the back and I have left it hanging as an extra panel. You could probably be clever and wrap /tie it to create a bow effect if you wished to emulate the runway photo more. The darkness of the sash around the waist is then picked up by the spectacular sleeves. Each is made out of a deep blue-black silk chiffon and are cut extra long. They are also cut wide and full to fall at an angle at the end of each sleeve. This bit of softness and transparency the sleeves have contrast sharply to the rich silk the rest of the dress is made from. It is a very unusual dress and shows the experimental side of couture. This is one of those dresses that when the right person wears it, it is going to blow people away. Excellent condition with a minor note below.

Fully lined in hand set silk that matches the colour of the exterior silk that is being lined. The sleeves are unlined. The dress closes with a hand set hidden back zipper and then there is another zipper that closes the inner mini skirt. The sash at the waist wraps and hooks into place. The brooch is detachable and shows sight patina on the gold. Proper couture label present. The dress is entirely made by hand to Haute Couture standards. The inner silk of the long skirt is scuffed near the hem and I see slight grubbiness along the hem on parts. Please see the shot after the label photo.

Sleeves: 34" to the longest point
Inset shoulders: 12"
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Mini dress length: 31" from top of shoulder to hem
Full Length: 60" from shoulder to longest point of the hem
Waist sash: 26.5" in length to where the hooks presently sit with an extension past that that wraps and hooks into place

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4012

Reference Photo: Fall 1994 Guy Laroche Haute Couture Runway Collection on Kirsty Hume.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Madame Gres' work has had profound effects on Haute Couture and her influence still resonates to this day. Her attention to detail, master draping techniques and respect for the female form is unparalleled. She was known for designing and creating garments directly on her models and this became a signature of her work. She opened her first atelier, La Maison Alix in 1932. A partnership briefly changed the house's name to Alix Barton and then the label went to simply Alix. In 1942 she married, and the label made its last change to became Madame Gres, which was a partial anagram of Serge, her husband's first name. Her work spans over five full decades with the vast majority of it, with the exception of a short-lived RTW line begun in 1980, dedicated solely to creating Haute Couture. She is one of the greatest couturiers of our time and her pieces are very rare and hard to find. This one is exceptional

I have dated this dress based on information from my client and on a variation of this dress held in the collection of the Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco. I have included a reference photo of that dress and you can see the similarity in cut and fabric. The collection notes on the museum held dress even mention a matching cape. This 1970s period is about the time period where she turned her attention from using primarily jerseys to incorporating more taffeta and silks into her work. That and the fact that the Museum dress also has a matching cape feels too coincidental for it not to be from that same collection. It is also interesting to note that the Museum held dress has been exhibited twice. Once for the "New Look to Now", at de Young Museum, 1989-91; and it was lent to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, for "Mme. Gres" in 1994. 

Both pieces are made from a fine silk taffeta dyed to a deep green colour. This fabric choice keeps the weight of the dress down despite its volume and the fabric also holds the intended shape beautifully. The bodice has no sleeves and is cut so that the shoulders slightly extend off the shoulder with this subtle little curved line. The bodice skims over the body in a long column to the dropped seam at the top of the hip. There is actually an inner skirt under the full top skirt that falls right to the floor with a high side slit up one side that allows you to be able to walk in it. This also gives a very unexpected flash of leg when you move or sit in the dress. The top skirt is pure drama. It is cut on a curve that comes up at the front and then swoops down to the floor and falls behind you at the back for a slight trained feel. That curving line is almost sculptural and gives the dress a different feel from every angle that you see it from. The outer skirt is set to fall away from the body with lots of volume and shape but the fabric is so light that you also get movement and a floating feel when you move. This was achieved by gathering the taffeta into soft pleats all along the curved seam there. Underneath the skirt there is a second shorter ruffled peplum layer that supports the fabric and holds the shape. Over this is a matching silk taffeta cape that is almost monastic in its simple lines. It simply hooks into place at the neck with one tiny hook and then falls beautifully over the shoulders. The cape flows and extends down the back mimicking the curved line of the skirt. At the front it hits right where the skirt begins and this is a clever way to extend the eye downwards. It is cut so that it falls in soft rounded folds that pick up the soft pleats of the skirt below it and ties everything together beautifully.  It is magnificent. Both pieces are completely made by hand. The proper Madame Gres Haute Couture label is present. This is an exceptional gown. I love it. This is a rare opportunity to own an original Haute Couture Madame Gres. It is an extraordinary thing to see in real life. Excellent condition with a minor note below.

Both pieces are unlined with hand done couture seams throughout. The dress closes with a off-set back zipper that is camouflaged along a vertical seam. It then closes along the top of one shoulder with a series of hooks and snaps. The cape has one single hook & eye to close. Inner peplum that supports the skirt as described above. I see some very tiny marks on the bodice. Please see the photos after the label shot. There is a very faint perfume smell on the dress from a fitting for a potential award show. I did not want to clean it again as its extremely faint and not an issue. The dress should fit a range of sizes since it is not meant to be very fitted.

Dress
Bust: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips at dropped seam: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 23" from neck to dropped seam where over skirt begins
Inner skirt: 37" from dropped seam where over skirt begins to hem
Total Length: 60" from neck to hem of inner dress, 67" to longest point of the back of the trained top skirt 
Slit: 20" from the hem up

Cape: will fit any size and falls to 30" a its longest point at the back

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3227

Reference Photos: 1977 Madame Gres Dress from the Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco.  /  Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture.

This garment has been professionally steamed and sold in, clean, as found condition. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Bill Blass launched his label in 1970 when he bought out the Maurice Rentner label and re-launched it under his own name. Blass was arguably one of the most famous of  the American designers. His forte was the ability to mix simple styles with luxurious materials and his evening wear in particular seemed to have a way of flattering the wearer. He knew how to walk that line perfectly. This is a gorgeous example of his work from this time period and it feels even more luxurious in person. 

This coat is a marvel. It made me gasp when I saw it. It is very well made and the fabric is extraordinary. I doubt you will see another like it again. It is made out of a flat pile velvet that has a added texture over it so that parts of the velvet catch the light differently. It was then printed with a swirling design done on a deep copper, a dusty blue and golden feeling taupes. Then on top of that parts of the pattern have been hand painted with a gold paint that you can feel as you run your hands over its surface. I love it. In very bight light the entire colour of the coat seems to shift and change from what you see her to be more of an overall blue. It is just incredible. The velvet is then mixed with a quilted  silk stain in an olive colour. He used this fabric for the wide full cuffs and for the soft rounded collar. The same quilted silk is used to highlight the flap pockets that are placed on each hip and it is lined in an un-quilted version of this same silk. The quilted detailing that piece has gives it a play on gender as it feels like a men's smoking jacket. The coat wraps over to the side and closes with three huge and elaborate frog knots made of a thick gold cording. A thinner metallic gold cord highlights the front edges and the cuffs. The shoulders are shaped but soft and the sleeves are long. It is cut to be more fitted through the body and then falls in a long expanse of the velvet to widen out as it nears the hem much like a classic great coat in feel. An interesting thing about this one, because it wraps over itself and closes at the side you could wear it on its own as a dress. It is always wonderful to find piece that can play double duty. It looks to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a the same green silk satin that  detailed the coat but the lining is not quilted. It closes at the side with the frog knots. The pockets are functional and have a hidden snap along their inside edges to help support their weight. Hand finished throughout. Light padding in each shoulder. It appears to have been worn very little if at all

Sleeves: 22.5"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 56" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3905

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

In the 1980s and 1990s Gianni Versace ruled the catwalks. He was the favourite of the Supermodels and they were featured predominately in his runway shows and his ad campaigns. Versace launched his label in 1978 and in 1989 he presented his first couture collection. The days that Gianni headed the label were heady, glamourous ones and set the tone for the label as we know it today. He remained at the helm of the brand until his death by assassination in 1997. This is from those years in the 1990s when the label was everywhere and everyone wanted to own and wear a Versace. Vogue recently added this show to its runway archives and in the show notes Gianni was quoted as saying; 'To use art in a flat way, without creative intervention, is in bad taste. I mix it up'. Also of note is that this was one of the collections that Donatella pulled from when she re-issued some looks for her Spring 2018 collection which commemorated the 20th anniversary of her brother’s death. 

This suit is the exact twin of the catwalk one and I am pleased to have some runway footage of the suit here for you so that you can see how it looks and moves once the body. You will note that for the runway they folded the tops of the pockets down. I lightly steamed them to match for one photo here but I prefer them they way they look when they lay out fully flat so you see every bit of the detail on them.  They also feel more 'naughty' that way. It was  belted for the show and it would be easy to add your own belt to get that same look if you wished. The suit is so very Versace. It is sexy and bright and you won't be missed by anyone once you have it on. Both pieces are made for a bright vivid lime green silk that is a touch brighter and more true then how it photoed here. It is stunning in person. The silk has a paisley design in a slightly more matte thread to give it this interesting tone on tone pattern.  The skirt is short and fitted with a flat front and no waist band. It is cut to curve up and into the waist so that it follows the curves of the body. The jacket goes over this and is cut full through the shoulders and bust, comes in at the waist and then sits snug over the hips. The epitome of the nineties silhouette.  Each sleeve is long and ends in this interesting flared cuff that end with a single gold toned metal button. You can wear the cuff long or flipped up like you see in the runway shot. More of the same buttons run down the front of the jacket to close and all of the buttonholes are done in the proper dressmakers technique. The collar is notched and simple. The jacket closes high enough up the front that you can easily wear it on its own without having to wear a top under it. The pockets are the star of the show. There are four and each is a round circle that has been top stitched. Of course the placement of the pockets on the bust have that very risqué feel to them and it is what gives the suit that shot of Versace sexiness. It is wonderful and very rare. It looks to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition 

Both piece are lined in a green silk. The skirt closes with a hidden set zipper and the jacket buttons to close. The jacket is light padded through the shoulders and all of the pockets are functional. Tagged a 38. Any colour change or little bit of yellow in the shots is just the lighting. It is is perfect in person. 

Jacket
Sleeves: 23"
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 36" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 18" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3864

Reference Photo/Video: Spring 1991 Versace Runway Collection, Look 53.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

In 1951, 27 year old James Galanos launched his first label called Galanos Originals. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. That said, his ready-to-wear line was made to almost true couture standards and piece in it were made with a level of craftsmanship that was on par with the French couturiers. Galanos was a master cutter and draper and he used many couture techniques in the construction of his dresses and other pieces. Grace Kelly was an early fan and he was truly one of the great American designers. His work is held in all of the major museums around the world and he is one of my personal favourite designers. This dress is exceptional and I was very excited to have it come into the shop.

The dress is absolutely gorgeous. The label that is in it was the one used starting in 1977. Looking at the dress it is almost hard to imagine that it is not from an earlier time period with its decidedly Old Hollywood feel. It is made out of a fine silk chiffon that has been dyed to a deep moss green. In the skirt they are also more olive coloured panels mixed in and this adds depth there. The bust is shaped and structured underneath that draped exterior. You would not think it to look at it but that part of the dress is very formed underneath and hides an inner foundation that follows the complete length of the bodice. The top is cut straight across and it curves in at the waist and then hugs the tops of the hips. A long chiffon panel snaps into place on one side of the interior and you can then drape this over your shoulder to create a few different looks. You can let it sit to cover your entire arm like a half cape or just have it trail down the back for a little floating detail as you walk away. You could also have it float over the entire upper chest to drape over the other shoulder. That panel is completely removable so you could also wear the dress without it for a true starless feel. The panel is long enough to play double duty as a sash or even a head piece. You have a lot pf options with it. The silk has been hand draped over the bodice and I love the contrast between the horizontal draping there against the vertical panels in the skirt. The skirt itself is a marvel. It is literally made up of vertical panels of silk that have been cut in different widths and slightly different lengths. These are layered over a inner single layer skirt of the same silk chiffon. When the dress is on it gives the illusion that you are very bare under the panels. Each panel is set in by hand and this would have been a meticulous and tedious method that would have added several hours of construction time to the dress. The panels give the dress a very unexpected sexy feel as they move around you and give the illusion that you will get a glimpse of your full leg at any moment. The dress is stunning on and the movement that the panel over the shoulder and the panels of the skirt have when you move is stupendous. Excellent condition 

Fully lined in a green silk and closes with a hand set zipper at the side. Hand finished throughout. The shoulder panel snaps onto place with silk covered snaps. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.

Bust: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips at the bottom of the bodice: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 48" from top of the strapless bodice to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS

Item# DD3862

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is the last piece from the second batch of very interesting pieces that are coming from a client whose aunt had most of her clothes made. This dress was made by Ady Couture and it is from the Yves Saint Laurent dress from the Fall 1983 collection which we found a photo of from that year. The story behind this label is fascinating. Ady Couture was based out of Lausanne Switzerland. She would buy couture fabrics from the couture houses along with the patterns and with permission make copies of the piece presented in the Haute Couture collections. When she was younger, and lived in Amsterdam, Ady would attend the private viewing and purchase directly from the couture houses. My client believes that her arrangement with the ateliers was a way to work around customs that prompted Ady to negotiate this arrangement with the ateliers. In my hunt for more information I have been able to verify that they made this permissible copies of the work of Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy, Lacroix and Ungaro. There may have been others but this are the houses I am confident on. The dress is completely made by hand to Haute Couture standards and it is beautiful. A truly iconic piece of couture 

The dress is made from a combination of a black velvet bodice with an attached brilliant emerald green silk skirt. The bodice has been kept sleek and simple with the richness of the black velvet taking centre stage. The shoulders are squared off with light padding to give them shape and the sleeves are cut to be wider at the top and taper down as they reach each wrist. The bodice skims over you and drops on an angle past the waist. At that point the skirt is attached and it is cut to sit on an angle down one hip for a bit of a swag feel. A panel on the skirt wraps and snaps into place from the back, perfectly following the seam. When it reaches the hip it hooks into place under an attached large bow. This gives it the effect that you just wrapped it around yourself and tied it in place. It is quite flattering once on. My dress form definitely does not do it justice and like all couture it really needs an actual body underneath to bring it to life. Every seam is done by hand and the craft put into making this is exquisite. The green of the skirt in person is so much better then how it photoed. It is a clear crisp emerald green and the silk is rich and heavy so that it holds the drape perfectly. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition 

Fully lined in a black silk through the bodice and the skirt is unlined. It closes with a hidden set zipper at the back and there are hidden set zippers at each wrist. The skirt snaps into place as described above. Hand finished throughout. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Made to Haute Couture standards with a tremendous amount of detail put into its construction. 

Sleeves: 24"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 57" from shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD3814

Reference photo: Yves Saint Laurent collection Fall 1983

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I am now on the second batch of very interesting pieces that are coming from a client whose aunt had most of her clothes made. This dress was made by Ady Couture and the story behind this label is fascinating. Ady Couture was based out of Lausanne Switzerland. She would buy couture fabrics from the couture houses along with the patterns and with permission make copies of the piece presented in the Haute Couture collections. When she was younger, and lived in Amsterdam, Ady would attend the private viewing and purchase directly from the couture houses. My client believes that her arrangement with the ateliers was a way to work around customs that prompted Ady to negotiate this arrangement with the ateliers. In my hunt for more information I have been able to verify that they made this permissible copies of the work of Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy, Lacroix and Ungaro. There may have been others but this are the houses I am confident on. This one seems to be heavily influenced by the Fall 1987 collection by Givenchy. You can see the same skirting technique used in the runway reference photos I have included here. And if you put the top of the dress that Audrey is wearing with the runway piece together you pretty much get this dress. The dress is completely made by hand to Haute Couture standards and it is beautiful. A truly iconic piece of couture 

The dress is made from the most incredible metallic fabric. It literally changes colour from a purple to a green depending on how the light hits it. You get a hint of that in the photos but when it is on and in actual light and you are moving it can really go to a green colour. It is just amazing really. The fabric has a touch of weight to it and this helps to hold the shape that you see. The dress is astonishing and so bold. Pieces like this are really a testament to the level of design that you only see in couture pieces. At the front the neckline is scooped to show a touch of skin. The sleeves are set into the shoulders so that you get a bit of a peak. They are wider near the top and then they and taper down slightly as they reach each wrist. The bodice is cut to skim over you and the waist is dropped. Under the dropped waist is a wide band of poufed and gathered fabric that creates an incredible volume. You can see how it creates this bold and dramatic 3D feel. With the way the light catches the fabric and changes the colour the effect is even more dramatic in person. Nestled into the folds of that gathered part is a large black velvet bow. The skirt is set under that on a sharp angle that works it way away from the body to widen out to be quite full as it nears the floor. It is cut to feel sculptural and balance out the volume above. The front is cut a little shorter then the back and the I love the pleat effect the back has because of this. It did not come with a belt but you could easily add one to give it more of the feel of the runway version and add shape. It is incredible. All of the volume is created by the cut and the fabric alone. The interior of the dress is completely finished to couture standards with every single seam done by hand. It is an incredible piece and just beautifully made. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition 

Fully lined in a black silk and closes with a hidden set zipper at the back and there are hidden set zippers at each wrist. Hand finished throughout. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Made to Haute Couture standards with a tremendous amount of detail put into its construction. 

Sleeves: 26"
Shoulders: 16"
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 54.5" from top of shoulder to front hem, 58" to the longest part of the back hem 

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD3808

Reference Photos: (1) A/W 1987 Givenchy Haute Couture Silver metallic lame brocade strapless gown dress with a black velvet chest and bow and 2-layer puffy skirt. L'Officiel No. 734, September 1987.  /  (2) Audrey Hepburn, in Givenchy, at the Sheraton Hotel in New York City for the 17th Annual International Emmy Awards in 1989.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

James Galanos was known as the designer that could rival the French in terms of construction and design. He launched his atelier in 1951 and though he was never a designer that was formally made a couture house he certainly produced clothing with many of the hallmarks that define couture, thus giving him the status as being known as one of the 'American Couturiers'. 

This dress is very unusual and I had a hard time deciding how to best have it sit on the dress form. It definitely works as a halter with the hook placed at the back of the neck. These leaves the upper back entirely bare and open and the ruffles that edge the halter run down the sides of the bust and around the neck. However, it also could potentially work with the hooks done up on the top of one shoulder. It does leave one breast exposed this way but I feel that you could wear it like this and have a bandeau underneath and it would be as amazing. You could also replace the elastic that edges the bodice and it would sit higher. The fabric is beautiful. The top layer is a floral print on a fine silk chiffon. Under that are four attached layers of a solid green silk and at the edges he has set these so each layer's edge can be seen. It gives the dress an opaqueness but it is still light as a feather. The bodice is finished with a ruffle that follows the curve of the fabric there. It wraps and hooks to close and inside there is a little label that says front on the inner waist band so you know which side to place at the front of you. The skirt wraps over itself and fall to the floor in a column of silk. It is fabulous. Excellent condition

Fully lined in the four layers of green silk. Hand finished throughout. It wraps and hooks to close. Elastic through the edge of the halter top. There is a small areas that does not seem quite as tight as the rest of it and I think you could tighten this and it would sit higher and cover the breast on that one side.

Bust: open
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bust: approx 18" from shoulder to waist but meant to drape a bit
Skirt: 43" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3398

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.