Jean-Louis Scherrer was one of the great French couturiers in the grand Parisian style. He counted Sophia Loren and Jackie Kennedy as fans in his heyday and his work in the 1970s especially was wonderful. Opulence, hand beading and rich passementerie were his trademarks. He launched his own Haute Couture house after working at Christian Dior and by 1977, the year that this dress was made, he was just reaching the top of his game as a couturier. It is an incredible find and even more beautiful in person

I love the soft yellow silk organza that has been used for the skirt and the shawl in this dress. This choice of fabric allows it to have the volume that you see but without adding any weight at all. It also is a soft and romantic contrast to the sequin work on the bodice. The bodice is strapless and cut to be fitted to the bust balancing the volume of the skirt perfectly. Thousand of tiny sequins have been hand applied to create that stunning floral design that you see. As you look closer the work just gets more amazing. The edges of the green sequin leafs fro example are all finished with the tiniest glass tube beads possible. Little glass crystals edge other parts of the design and create a border across the top of the bodice. The workmanship is exquisite and the care and time to have created the design using these very small sequins and beads is astonishing. Under the bodice the skirt is cut to skim over the tops of the hips and than flows outwards with its first ruffle. There are three ruffles in total making up the skirt and each is cut to be very wide and each is made out of several yards of fabric. The skirt under the ruffles gradually widens as it reaches the hem. I photos most of the full length shots here with a light crinoline underneath so you could get an idea of just how full the skirt could be. The final full length shot is without anything underneath and even then it has stunning volume. The movement and airiness the skirt creates in person is amazing. At your smallest movement the ruffles float around you. The dress comes with a matching shawl that is so large it really could be considered to be more of a cape. It is made of the same silk as the skirt and is finished with the same ruffled treatment we see on the skirt. It can be wrapped or just lightly held. The entire dress is finished to Haute Couture standards and it is even more beautiful in person. Excellent condition with a small note to review below

Fully lined in the same silk organza that is used on the exterior. All of the work throughout is done by hand done to the edgings of the inner seams. It zips to close with a painted metal zipper and the exterior skirt snaps to close over the zipper. An inner waist stay hooks to close. The bodice is lightly boned. I see one tiny dot of a mark just under the bodice seam and a tiny repair near the base of the back closure. Numbered tag 002576

Bust: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 9" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 42" from waist to hem
Shawl: 9 feet long x just over 5 feet wide

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS

Item# DD3393

Reference Photos: (1) 1976-1977 Fall-Winter Women's haute couture runway show.  /  (2) Jean Louis Scherrer with model, 1977.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Vicky Tiel was backed by Elizabeth Taylor as a young designer after working on the costumes for 'Whats New Pussycat'. After a stint with a partner she launched her self named label in Paris in 1970. She as one of the very early boutique owner/designer that offered a ready-to-wear option in Paris. That said, her clothes often walk a fine line between ready-to-wear and couture in terms of their construction and techniques used. By the mid to late seventies her style had developed into the ultra sexy and feminine clothing that she is now known best for. By the eighties and into the nineties, she had a cult celebrity following. This is a stunning example of just how sexy and dramatic her work could get. 

This dramatic little dress by Vicky Tiel is fabulous. It is made from a black jersey that lets it drape over you perfectly. The design is fabulous as well. The bodice is draped and gathered into two long triangles over the bust. At the back there are two more of the same and these are set wider apart so that most of your back is left bare and exposed. Then starting right under the base of the halter there is a gathered and fitted waist that cinches you in and creates shape. This middle part is highly structured and molded to the body. It is made like a corset inside to give you shape with both boning and inner structure for support. Under that the skirt is made out of the same jersey as the rest of the dress and is set as a panel that wraps around you and curves up and over at the front. When you walk or move you get a flash of leg showing and it is quite sexy. All of this is topped by that spectacular collar and sleeves. The halter at the back and front are all attached into the collar that wraps around the neck and so are the long slim sleeves. This creates this very interesting cut out effect all around the neckline and back. The collar itself is really like wearing an attached piece of jewellery. It is made of a wide and soft band that is covered with rows of faux pearls and rhinestones. This is a dress that really needs an actual body for it to come to life. It will be jaw dropping once on the right person. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition.

The skirt and halters are a double layer of the jersey. The middle is fully lined in a black silky rayon and is boned. The dress closes with a back zipper. Very well constructed. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. 

Sleeves: approx 24
Bust: approx to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam but with the open design it should accommodate a range of bust sizes. 
Seam under the bust: 14.5"
Natural waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam at bottom of bodice: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 11" from neck to top seam at waist
Middle banding: 9"
Skirt: 18.5" from bottom seam of bodice to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3787

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This fabulous dress would have been designed while Youssef Rizkallah headed the company. Youseef joined the Malcolm Starr label in 1969 and remained as the head designer until 1975. The years that Youssef headed the line are among some of my favorites and in particular his pieces that utilize quilting and patchwork are truly iconic. Rizkallah was born in Egypt and studied at the Ecole de dessin appliqué and the Ecole des arts decoratifs in Paris. His designs seem to combine that sense of couture lines that he gained in Paris with the color and vividness of his homeland. I particularly love his patchwork appliqué pieces and this one is a stellar example of just that. 

This is a wonderful piece that would have originally been worn over pant or shorts based on that one side of the skirt that is completely open from the waist to the hem. The dress is made from a creamy ivory fabric that feels like a light mixed of cotton and synthetics. It has a slight ribbed texture that runs over it. The lines in the fabric all run vertically over the dress and this adds to the feeling of length that it has. The bodice is cut with a high collar and no sleeves. It skims over the bust and nips in at the waist. The skirt flows down from under there and the entire one side of the skirt has a ruffled finish in the same ivory fabric. The ruffles also hide that slit that runs right from the waist to the floor so that the side is completely split open. You could easy add a snap or two if you wanted to wear it as a true dress or wear it as it was originally intended by adding a pair fo shorts, tights or trousers underneath. Big gingham patchwork flowers run over the bodice and also trail down the skirt. I love the pop of colour and optimism the flowers give the dress. You cannot look at this piece with its big happy flowers and not feel wonderful. And if that was not enough, the entire inside lining of the skirt is finished in a matching blue gingham. With the skirt being open down the side you completely see this lining when you move. It's fantastic. The final finishing touch is the padded and piped gingham tie belt that wraps around the waist and ties everything together. It is an amazing combination of colour and textures. It is so dramatic and like wearing art. I love it. Excellent condition with a minor note below

Fully lined in a blue cotton gingham and zips to close at the  back. There is a slight hint of yellowing to the fabric at the collar and the upper back. It otherwise appears to have been worn very little if at all. 

Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 16" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 41" from waist to hemm

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3789

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is a gorgeous dress. It is from the 2009 Resort collection and was Look 12 of the presentation. In 2009 Valentino was headed by Alessandra Facchinetti. Vogue's Laird Borrelli-Perrson said of the show; 'In her third collection for Valentino, Alessandra Facchinetti sketched a portrait of a lady in soft hues—pearl gray, icy white, and blush pink—punctuated with pops of chartreuse and rich fuchsia. The chic yet restrained suits she showed for day had soldier jackets with peplumed backs and rows of tiny covered buttons. Release came in the form of ruffles, which fluttered throughout the collection but found their most elegant expression in organza gowns. Smartly paired with metallic flats, these embraced the bodice before wafting to the floor.' This is one of the three stand out organza dresses shown in this collection and I think it was the best one of the three.

This is the kind of dress that you see in real life and it makes you swoon. As good as it looks in the photos it really comes to life on the body. When you move in it the air around you picks uo the silk and organza and it really has beautiful movement. It is made out of a combination of a black silk organza and black silk chiffon. This is layered over inner layers of more silk chiffon. On the skirt there is a doubled inner silk lining topped by two layers of chiffon and then the ruffles are all made from the silk organza. The bodice is made out of the silk chiffon and I love the intricate pleat work that covers it and draws your eye inwards to the detailing. Down the centre front the dress is cut to be fairly sleek in feel with a v cut neckline and nipped in waist. It flows to the floor in a long column and there are ruffles that run down either side of the skirt. These ruffled panels run from the waist all the way down to curve out and around each side to the hem. The effect this creates is wonderful. The back is cut to be longer then the front so you get just the hint of a trained effect. Both the front and back plunge to the inner straight cut bodice and the straps are wide. They curve up and around the shoulder and then angle gracefully in towards the centre of the low back. The entire front is finished with a heavy application of little round glossy black circle paillettes that give the dress a subtle bit of embellishments and glitz. These are denser under the waist line of the dress and take on an almost chain mail feel yet they are very light in weight. The entire dress weighs ounces. It is so pretty and even better in person. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition 

Fully lined in silk and constructed as described above. It closes with a hidden set side zipper. No size tag present. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. It retailed for over $6000 in 2009. Maybe a paillette missing here and there but nothing obvious. 

Bust: 17.5 " flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulders to seam under bust
Skirt: 45" from was it to front hem, 50" to back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3783

Reference Photo: Resort 2009 Valentino Collection. Look 12.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Leger worked for Karl Lagerfeld at Fendi and followed him to Chanel in 1983 when Lagerfeld took over there. In 1985 at the age of 28 Leger began designing under his own name for clients. His dresses were one of the stars of the nineties and were among the most coveted and iconic of the labels during that period of fashion. His bandage dress in particular were one of his strongest creations and the originals were only produced between 1989-1997. This dress is even more special as it is one of his couture pieces. A mannequin would be created based on the exact measurements of his client that the dress was made for and each is a one of made to fit that client exactly. In 1998 the company was sold to BCBG and the making of the bandage dress were halted along wth the dismissal of Herve from his self named brand. Dresses from this time period where he was making and designing the dresses himself are very rare and to find a couture one even rarer. It is a very special piece. I based the date on this from the info from my client and that the 1996 collection featured a lot of lace detailed pieces. 

This dress combines that iconic striped bandage technique he used with a bias cut silk skirt and stunning lace and bead work. The bodice is made entirely using his famous bandage technique where elastic strips of fabric were sewn together to make girdle-tight foundation. The allows the bodice to mold and shape itself to your body and  create that perfect hourglass feel. The bandage portion the dress runs from the neckline to just past the hips. The bodice was then covered in a soft, fine lace that allows the nude coloured elastic underneath to peak through. From a distance this gives the illusion that you aren't wearing anything underneath the lace. The lace is held in place by vertical banding of beadwork that are set on slight angles to further add to the illusion of shape. More beadwork runs around the neckline and over the straps and then again t the bottom where the bodice meets the skirt. The front is shaped to mold over the breasts and the straps are set wide. On an actual body these can be worn more off the shoulder to leave the collar bones completely bare. At the back the neckline scoops down to leave the upper portion of the shoulders bare. The skirt is set in under that and flares out around you to move with your slightest movement. I love this contrast between the very fitted top and the more flowing skirt. The silk used for the skirt is light in weight and has no lining so it really moves wonderfully. It is stunning and a fabulous example of his made to order couture work. This is a dress that really needs a body to come to life and once on it will blow you away.  Excellent condition 

Unlined and closes with a hidden set back zipper. Tagged a M. The fabric does have stretch and it can expand but does still stay tight and fitted with the elastic interior. The range of measurements given below are of it laying flat but it will potentially stretch to a couple of inches more. 

Bust: 15-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 16-18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 54" from off shoulder strap to hem, approx 57" once on

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Item# DD3581

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Loris Azzaro launched his label in 1967 and quickly defined his trademark looks by using ornate beading, sequins, daring cut-outs and avant garde ways of defining the body. Some of the most beautiful women in the world wore his clothing including Marisa Berenson, Raquel Welch, Jane Birkin, Sophia Loren, Brigitte Bardot and Tina Turner. It was a label that defined sexiness and had a certain French flare that women world-wide loved. By the seventies and eighties he was experimenting with volume and proportions and new fabrics that at the time were all cutting edge. This is a stunning example of his work during this period. This is a label that I really love and am always happy to find pieces of.

This is a killer dress. It is really one that will come to life even more once on an actual body and you can see your bare skin peeking through the waist openings. I hope the photos convey just how fabulous it is because when worn and on an actual body this one will be even better. The top is made from two simple triangles that curve up and around the neck and then narrow into straps that dip down the back. The waist is entirely made out of a pattern of beads done in a combination of black and gold. The spaces created between the curving rows of beads are completely open so that you get your bare skin peaking through once it is on. This bead detailing starts just under the bust and runs all the way around you to the waist seam. At the back it ties into place which just adds to the bare feeling the dress has. It also makes it adjustable from larger to small bust-lines. This transparent coverage is where that mix of sensuality and sexuality that his work always has becomes so apparent. The skirt under that is made from a bias cut black opaque silk jersey that sits and drapes beautifully around you. When you walk it moves and there is this beautiful contrast with the length of the skirt and the bareness of the top. It brings all the emphasis to the curves of your body above. If there was ever a dress that needed a body inside of it to bring it to life, this is it. It is stupendous once on. Excellent condition

The skirt is fully lined in a black silky rayon and the rest of the dress is unlined. It closes with a low back set zipper on the skirt and then ties up the back above that. One of the circles seems a little unmatched to the rest but it still lays perfectly fine once on. Please see the photo after the label shot. Tiniest bit of reside on the back of the halter from old taping. 

Bust: adjustable with the ties at the back and each triangle will provide up to approx 7"across in coverage 
Waist: 12-13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15.5" from shoulder to waist
Skirt: 44.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3580

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This gorgeous little Oscar de la Renta dress is most likely from around 1968. Variations of these highly detailed dresses were made in both long and short lengths and in a several different colour ways. The label in the dress identifies it as being a part of his earliest main line. When Oscar De la Renta first started his career he began a partnership with the fashion house of Jane Derby in 1965. Jane Derby died shortly after and in 1966 the first labels that bore only the Oscar de la Renta name appeared. That makes this a very early example of his higher end work. The dress is gorgeous and a definite favourite from all the pieces of his that I have had over the years. 

The dress is very beautiful and is an absolute knock out once on. It is also very representative of his work during this time period. The fabric is quite exceptional and the silk threads that are woven through the deep red silk form a stunning design that runs from shoulder to hem. The fabric is lighter in weight then you would think at first glance. It is heavy enough to hold and retain the shape that he desired the dress to have but is still light enough so that it feels easy and comfortable to wear. It has a very refined feel to it but it feels youthful and fresh at the same time. It perfectly sums up Oscar's love of opulence mixed with the exuberance of the decade. The cut is kept simple to allow that stunning fabric to take centre stage. The skirt falls from the waist and widens out slightly as it nears the hem. I love the way the skirt has those deep pleats at either side. It adds a little extra volume and also some visual interest when you turn to the side. The waist is seamed but left more on the open and easy feeling side rather than being severely cinched in. The bodice has simple cut with no sleeves and is cut to skim over the body. The fabric is a rich silk in a deep red that has a touch of coral colour to it. Woven through that are little floral feeling medallions in a mix of silver and gold metallic thread. These have an slight 3D feel to them and add a soft metallic shimmer over the entire dress. The detailing on the bodice is spectacular. It is all edged with an elaborate gold braiding. Large crystal rhinestones are set into the coils of the braiding and little gold studs are spaced evenly along its length. The braiding runs around the neck, each arm and then details the top and bottom edge of the attached belt that gives you shape at the waist. It is gorgeous. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a red silk chiffon with additional strips of silk the inner edges. It closes at the back with a painted metal zipper. The belt is attached. Hand finished throughout 

Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam, with extra room created by the folds on each side
Length: 35" from shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3753

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

James Galanos was just 27 years old when he launched his first label called Galanos Originals in 1951. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. when you convert that to modern dollars and realize that it would be just under 30k for his upper range pieces. Part of the reason for those high price tags was that his ready-to-wear was made to couture standards. The workmanship and craft put into them were made to a level that was on par with the official French couturiers. Galanos was a master cutter and draper. Grace Kelly was an early fan and other couturiers looked to his work as inspiration. His work is held in all of the major museums around the world and he is one of my personal favourite designers. 

This dress is a showstopper. When it is off the body and laying flat it looks almost awkward but once on it completely transforms. It is strapless and the bodice is absolutely amazing to see in person. A brilliant blue silk has been covered with a gold metallic netting. Attached onto that is a dense application of gold sequins that are set to follow the pattern in the lace underneath. If that was not enough he then worked blue and iridescent beads in and among the sequins. These create a 3D feel as the pattern is raised off the netting. It is very elaborate and glamorous. Inside there is hidden boning and support built in so that once it is on the bodice hugs you like a glove. I love how the bodice extends down and past the hip and angles down on one side. This gives it a slightly longer line and more interest than it would have had if the waist was just cut straight across. It makes the break between the bodice and skirt softer. The skirt is incredible. It is attached under the bottom edge of the bodice and the fabric of the skirt has been completely cut on the bias. It is made of an incredible light silk that has been covered in a wash of gold thread. Parts of it has a denser application of the gold and the pattern this creates picks up on the pattern made by the sequins on the bodice. It drapes over your curves and moves with you as you move. It is so insanely sexy and so obviously couture that you will literally have your breathe taken away. If you have been looking for the ultimate dramatic statement dress this could just be it. Exquisite in every way. Excellent condition

The bodice is lined in a blue silk satin and has hidden boning and structure inside. The skirt has an inner silk chiffon skirt. It closes with a side set zipper. Ribbon seamed inner seams. Hand finishes throughout 

Bust: 18-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 11" from top of bodice true waist
Skirt: 42" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD3738

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Ceil Chapman was an American designer of classic cocktail and party dresses who successfully took the revered Christian Dior 'New Look' haute couture designs that most woman could not even hope to afford and reworked them into designs that American woman could attain. She won the Coty American Fashion Critic's Award in 1945, the John Wanamaker Award, Foley's 'Golden Year' Award, and the Strawbridge and Clothier seal of confidence, for creative contribution in the area of American fashion. In 1955, she won the Mademoiselle Merit Award, after a poll asking college girls to cite the country's most popular designer for the young. She won by a landslide. Her self-named label was launched in the mid-1940s and continued to the to the mid-sixties.

I think this might be one of the most incredible Ceil Chapman that I have not only had but that I have ever seen. It is cut into a classic cocktail dress silhouette, with a fitted bodice, nipped in waist and a very full skirt. The bust has wide straps that curve up and over each shoulder to sit wide and expose the collarbones. A panel of fabric extends out from the tip if each shoulder and then curves across the bust in a soft drape to create a shelf bust feel. This is a very flattering look once on and it really highlights the bust and creates a lovely shape. At the back the fabric is gathered in soft folds to edge the V that dips down from the neck. I have styled the dress over a light crinoline so that you can see just how full the skirt is. It could go even fuller and if you really wanted to exaggerate the fullness you could easily use a a very very full crinoline underneath. The fabric is a lovely creamy ivory silk satin that helps to give the dress the structure it needs to hold its sculpted shape. The dress is covered with this incredible detailing made up of a cotton thread lace edged in gold, gold metallic thread, prong set rhinestones and faux pearls that have all been hand stitched into place. The main part of the design is created by the thread lace edged in gold. The edging is an actual metal and is set on its side so that it sits out from the dress to give it the 3D feel that it has. Parts of the design have been cross thatched with a metallic gold thread and other parts have the rhinestones and pearls hand set into place. In person the effect is a touch softer overall feel then how it photoed. The camera creates a bit more of a shadow and in real life the dress has a more ivory and soft gold feel. It is just incredible. The entire dress catches the light and the jewels sparkle and shimmer with your slightest movement. It is like being dressed in a jewel box. I especially love how they have used the detailing across the waist to create a belted effect. It gives the dress a lovely polished finish. These early Chapman pieces are very hard to come by and this one is in wonderful condition too. I also love the level of craftsmanship put into the dress. Truly an incredible find. Besides being a very wearable cocktail dress this would make a stunning wedding choice for the bride looking for something not as traditional or as an option for an event over a wedding weekend. Excellent condition with a couple of minor notes below

Fully lined in a combination of a cream silky rayon through the bodice and dressmakers paper through the skirt. The interior bodice is lightly boned and shaped. It closes with a back painted metal zipper. The crinoline it is photoed over is not included. There is the barest hint of a mark under one arm and i am being extremely picky on that. A water mark in the skirt that gets lost in the design and perhaps a scoff or two on the fabric. I see one missing rhinestone. It is really in wonderful condition. Please see the shots after the label shot

Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from shoulder to waist 
Skirt: 28" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3731

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

True Haute Couture pieces by Chanel are an extraordinary find as they are so very rare and hard to come by. This one, like several other of the Haute Couture pieces in the shop at the moment, are from one of my clients whose mother purchased the majority of her Couture pieces between 1973 to the mid and late seventies. This particular set has the added provenance of having its twin photoed on actress Sylvia Kristel. We also found the original presentation photo from the couture collection that year and it shows you just how gorgeous this set will sit on the body once on. It is an incredibly beautiful example of the work that the Chanel ateliers were doing during this time period. 

The set is two pieces. A silk jersey dress that has incredible lines and then a matching silk jersey cardigan that is hand beaded. The dress is made out of two distinct layers. There is a complete inner dress made out of a silk crepe that is cut to skim over you and act as an inner lining. Attached to sit over that is a silk jersey exterior layer. The jersey is all cut on the bias and it is incredibly flattering. The neckline sweeps across the collar bones and sits wide at the front. A thin and open keyhole runs down the center of the bodice from just under the top of the neck to just above the waist. The waist itself is gathered into this elaborate circle that is entirely and meticulously made from hand set pleats. This creates a pretty and soft effect at the front. All around that circle is a series of soft pleats that span outwards. The back is cut onto a deep V for a little bit of skin to show. The skirt falls in a draped column and there is no seam at the waist so the line remains long and beautiful. Over this is a soft cardigan made from the same silk jersey on the exterior. Inside it has been hand lined in a matching red silk chiffon. All of the edges of the cardigan have been covered with beautiful beaded flowers and a border that is made from red and black glass tube beads. These would have been applied and created by hand by Lesage to the exact specifications given by Chanel. The bead work gives the design a slightly raised effect and they have a subtle glimmer in the light. I love this contrast between the bareness of the dress underneath with the coverage of the cardigan. It gives you two completely different looks to work with and wearing it with the jacket completely transforms the look and feel of the dress. It goes from a more bare and sexy dancing dress to something that feels more formal but still with that sense of ease created by the silk jersey. Both pieces are entirely made by hand as Haute Couture dictates and the fabric would have been made specifically for Chanel and this piece. This is a fine and rare example from this time period. It is truly brilliant and when you see it in person you will be astounded at the level of craftsmanship and care put into the construction. In excellent overall condition with notes below.

The dress has an inner attached silk dress and there is a wide grosgrain band that hooks to close at the interior of the waist, The inner dress zips to close under that and the outer dress buttons into place with a series of hand covered silk buttons in a matching fabric. The jacket is fully lined in a red silk chiffon and hooks to close down the front. Both pieces have been completely hand made. The label was removed at some point. There is a are some small marks that I have photoed. They may come out with a more aggressive or specialty cleaning. Please see the photos starting after the shot of the way it closes at the back.

The color in person is more a deep raspberry/ soft burgundy with a bit more of a red pink tome then how it photoed. The waist measurement is taken of the inner grosgrain band. You should be able to add to it if you needed more room and get another inch or two to work with. It is all hidden under the exterior dress so would be a very doable tweak.

Dress
Bust: approx 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner grosgrain at waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner lining hips: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 60" from top of shoulder to hem

Cardigan
Sleeves: 23"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 25" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3730

Reference Photos: (1) SS 1976 Chanel collection in Paris, January 23 1976.  /  (2) Dutch actress and model Sylvia Kristel in Chanel, January 27 1976.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This gorgeous little Oscar de la Renta is a part of the 1968 collection and its twin a longer yellow silk version is a part of The Museum at Fit's permanent collection. Versions of this dress were made in both lengths and in a couple of different colour ways. The label in the dress identifies it as being a part of his earliest main line. When Oscar De la Renta first started his career he began a partnership with the fashion house of Jane Derby in 1965. Jane Derby died shortly after and in 1966 the first labels that bore only the Oscar de la Renta name appeared. That makes this a very early example of his higher end work. The dress is gorgeous and one of my favourites from all the pieces of his that I have had over the years. 

The dress is very beautiful and is an absolute knock out once on. It is also very representative of his work during this time period. The fabric is quite exceptional and the silk metallic brocade forms a stunning design that runs from shoulder to hem. The fabric is lighter in weight then you would think at first glance. It is heavy enough to hold and retain the shape that he desired it to have but is still light enough so that it feels easy and comfortable to wear. It has a very refined feel to it but it feels youthful and fresh at the same time. It perfectly sums up Oscar's love of opulence mixed with the exuberance of the decade. The cut is kept simple to allow that stunning fabric to take centre stage. The skirt falls from the waist and widens out slightly as it nears the hem. I love the hidden pockets that are along the side seams of the skirt. The waist is seamed but left more on the open and easy feeling side rather than being severely cinched in. The bodice has simple sleeves and is cut to skim over the body. The fabric is a silk brocade that is a gorgeous mix of soft pastels that are primarily in pinks and a soft yellow in colour. Woven through that is a silver thread that adds a soft metallic shimmer over the entire dress. The front of the bodice is spectacular. It is cut to the waist but caught up with these high elaborate knots made out of silver braiding. Large crystal rhinestones are set into the coils. More silver cording and rhinestones follows the scalloped edges at the front and then more of the same runs around the waist and around the ends of both cuffs. It is gorgeous. Excellent condition with a minor note below

Fully lined in a bright yellow silk with ribbon finished interior seams. It closes at the back with a painted metal zipper. The dress is sewn together where the edges meet down the front centre and the knots closures are decorative only so that you just get a cut out effect there. The dress shows minor patina to some of the cord work and on a tiny part of the fabric near the arm. Please see the two photos after the label shot. The fabric has the slight feel of softness to it from normal patina and aging. 

Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from shoulder to waist
Skirt: 23" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3718

Reference Photo: 1968 Yellow Lurex Brocade with Silver Oscar De La Renta Evening Dress from The Museum at FIT Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I have several interesting pieces that have come in from a client whose aunt had most of her clothes made. This dress was made by Ady Couture and the story behind this label is fascinating. Ady Couture was based out of Lausanne Switzerland. She would buy couture fabrics from the couture houses along with the patterns and with their permission would make copies of the piece presented in the Haute Couture collections. When she was younger, and lived in Amsterdam, Ady would attend the private viewing and purchase directly from the couture houses. My client believes that her arrangement with the ateliers was a way to work around customs and this was the work around that that Ady negotiated with the ateliers. In my hunt for more information on the label I have been able to verify that they made this permissible copies of the work of Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy and Ungaro. There may have been others but this are the four houses I am confident on. I feel that this particular dress has a more Yves Saint Laurent or Ungaro feel to it and I am still actively searching to find its counterpart. The dresses are completely made by hand to Haute Couture standards and are incredible to see.

The dress is made from a silk taffeta and this fabric choice allows it to hold those extravagant lines that you see. It is absolutely beautiful and a testament to the level of design that you only see in couture pieces. The colour of the silk is extraordinary. I have managed to almost capture it in these photos but in person it is even richer feeling then what you see here. At the front the neckline is set in a simple high scoop. The bodice is cut to skim over your curves and is simple in cut to let the other details shine. The sleeves are a work of art. Each is made on a curve to follow the shape of the arm. They are set into the shoulders with a beautiful series of soft pleats so that you get a beautiful sense of volume there. They then taper down to the cuffs where they zip to close around the wrist. The waist is seamed and the skirt is set around the waist in a series of soft gathers that sit out from the waist slightly. This gives the illusion that the waist is smaller then it is and is quite genius. The skirt is one of the best skirts I have seen both from a design point of view and by its level of construction. It is made into two sections. The top section comes out from the soft gathered pleats all around the waist and then it balloons out all around you in a full pouf. It is seamed underneath to catch the fabric back inwards and then the second part of the skirt falls to the floor. That second tier has many yards of silk in it so that it flares out as it reached the hem. Between the two sections is a wide velvet ribbon that wraps around the seam and then you tie it into a bow at the side. What is truly incredible is that all the volume and shape that you see is created purely through the way it is cut and the fabric choice. The skirt does not have extensive underskirts to shape it. The silk of the skirts are interlined in a silk organza to help give it more weight but it is really the genius of the cut that gives it the intended shape. The final perfect detail is the elaborate detailing that runs across the front and back of the bodice and over the sleeves. All of the work is by hand. The intricate floral design has been created by combining embroidery work with tiny black sequins and beads. It is some of the finest hand work I have seen and I love how they have deliberately laid the sequins out so that you get a more matte feel for parts of the design. Inside the dress is completely finished to couture standards with every seam is hand finished. I have taken some detail shots for you to see the fine workmanship inside. It is an incredible piece and absoluteyly beautifully made. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition 

The bodice is fully lined in a matching gold toned silk and the skirt is fully interlined with a slightly gold tinged silk organza. It closes with a back fine zipper and the skirt snaps into place with silk covered snaps over it. Hidden set zippers at each wrist. Hand finished throughout. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Made to Haute Couture standards with a tremendous amount of detail put into its construction.

Sleeves: 26"
Slightly inset shoulders: 13.5"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15.5" from shoulder to waist
Length: 42" from waist to front hem, 45" to the back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3685

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Bill Blass worked for the Maurice Retner label for 10 years as the chief designer. In 1968 the Bill Blass Inc label became a subsidiary of the Retner label . Then in 1970 he fully bought out his partners at the Maurice Retner label and re-launched it under his own name as Bill Blass Ltd. 1970 was the same year that he won his third Coty American Fashion Critics' Award and with it, his lifetime membership in the Coty Hall of Fame. By 1980 the company was doing 20 million dollars in revenue. He was arguably one of the most famous of all the American designers. By the eighties his work was even more ornate and luxurious than what he had done in the past. Prices for dresses could be as high as $5000 (which would be about $15,000 today). He was once asked why his clothes were so expensive and he replied, 'I'm an avid believer that we have to have clothes made in this country. Therefore we pay more money. ... The cost of labor and fabrication is what makes the clothing expensive.'

I have had versions of this dress in the shop in the past and I love it every time one comes in. It is bold and dramatic and it still feels perfectly on point with so many designers focusing on the eighties right now. Few designers would be able to make this mix of fabrics work. The neck is high and the sleeves are long. There is an inner silk chiffon bodice and then over that is an attached netted lace top. This is then covered in glossy black sequins. The winning through the lace and sequins are little rosettes that are made from a white ribbon that has been woven through the netting and stitched into place in little twirls. Blass used dots in his work quite often and the ribbon work that has been done is a bit of a play on his signature dot pattern. The shoulders are padded and strong and the edge of the bodice is shaped into a curving scalloped pattern. I love how it sits away from the body because it emphasizes the waist more. Quite a clever trick. The waist is accented by a wide black silk satin ribbon that is attached to the inner dress. Under that the skirt falls with a nice bit of fullness to it. Inside it has an inner organza lining that helps to hold the shape but most of the volume comes form the pleating at the waist and the horizontal banding that helps to give the skirt structure. It curves out full over the hips and has a bit of a bell shape. Alternating stripes of black and white silk organza run all the way to the hem and each black stripe has a little band of lace edging it on both the top and bottom of the stripe. Excellent condition with a small note to review below.

The outer bodice is lined in a black silk and that sits over a black silk chiffon inner bodice. The skirt is lined with a white white silk organza. The dress closes at the back with a hand set zipper and the top buttons to close over that. Padded shoulders. I see the the slightest of darkening to some of the ribbon on the top. Too faint to capture in a photo but mentioned for accuracy. There is a minor mark on the skirt and a tiny area of fading near the hem. Please see the photos after the shot of the label

Sleeves: 22"
Shoulders: 15.5"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 16" from top of shoulder to bottom seam of band at the waist
Skirt: 36" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3387

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The Balmain transformation from what it was originally to what it is today began when they hired Christophe Decarnin. He was the designer that gave it its edgy feel that has continued to the present day under Olivier Rousteing, the label's current Creative Director. When the Fall 2008 collection showed Vogue's Nicole Phelps said in part: 'And as promised, Spring's haute hippie feathers, fringe, and tie-dye were replaced by an all-Billy Idol soundtrack and enough leopard-print chain mail, python-pattern denim, and crystal-embroidered lightning bolts to make you wonder if there was anything at all left on the shelves at Trash and Vaudeville. To be fair, Decarnin's creations are much finer than the East Village emporium's, but they appeal to a similar kind of chick, one with a killer body and an active nightlife.' The twin of this dress closed the show and it is perhaps one of the most memorable and significant pieces that Decarnin designed for the label. It was produced in very limited quantities and instantly sold out world wide despite a very hefty retail price. 

The dress is incredible and the skirts are all still their original lengths. I note that as I have only ever seen one other of these for sale and it had its skirts shortened at some point. The length is integral to the design in many ways. The skirt panels are incredibly long and light in weight so that when you move they float and billow around you as you can see in the runway footage. Above the skirts it is extremely fitted long curving bodice that is constructed to highlight your every curve. On the interior of the bodice there is a full boned corset with built in cups. The corset is cut to run from the bust to the top of the hips so that you are molded and shaped into place. On the outside the silk is hand draped and placed into position to form soft gathers that run around you. A huge zig zag bolt runs down the front. It is densely covered in crystals and it separates the prints on either side of you. The silk on one side is zebra and the silk used for this is a light scarf weight silk. The other side is finished in a black and white leopard print. On that side the silk is more of a silk faille and slightly heavier in weight then the zebra printed silk is. This change in weights of the silk is genius because it means that the way the silk moves in the skirts changes and you get more movement. The crystal covered panel that divides the two printed sides curves over just one shoulder and then runs down the front in the dramatic zig zag that you see. At the back it extends just past the shoulder and curves to the side. To close the dress Decarnin  has used one of the signature chunky Balmain zippers to divide the two prints. The zipper is set on a curve that follows the curve of your body and it becomes an incredible design detail in itself. The dress is fitted to the top of the hips and then the skirts flare out into long trains of fabric. The predominant part of the skirt is made from the leopard print and this is set on a curve at the hem that extends out to the side and to the back. There is a smaller panel at the front that is made out of the zebra print silk that also extends out and back. Where the two fabrics meet at the front side, they are only attached at the to and not together. This means that an opening is created that goes right up to the top of the thigh. When you move your entire legs shows. We have included the runway footage for reference so that you can see just how incredible it is when it is on and you walk. Excellent condition with a minor note below.

The inner bodice has a fully built in boned corset made from a nude colored lingerie stretch corseting nylon fabric that has built in cups and is finished by hand. The fabric is hand draped over this and the crystals and lightening bolt have been attached by hand. It closes with a curved set zipper that allows the form fitting construction of the dress. Tagged a 40. There are a couple of small repairs along the hem of the trained skirts. Some tiny pulls in the silk of the bodice. Please see the photos after the label shot. Hand finished throughout. The inner foundation garment does have some stretch. You might be able to squeeze out a bit more room when on a real body.

Bust: 15-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 11.5-12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 16.5-17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 33" from top of shoulder to bottom of inner foundation garment
Skirt: 28.5" from bottom of inner foundation garment to shortest hem, 53" to the longest hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Item# DD3115

Reference Photos: F/W 2008 Balmain Runway, Final Look.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Paco Rabanne was a Spanish designer who became known as "l'enfant terrible (unruly child) of the 1960s French fashion world. He began making jewellery in unusual materials for many of the French couturiers and in 1964 at the age of 30 presented his first collection. In 1966 he had his breakout show: 'Twelve Unwearable Dresses in Contemporary Materials.' and it was with this show that he found his calling. He was quoted as saying 'sewing is a bondage,' and made his dresses out of paper, plastic and metal, which were pieced together with wire and glue. By 1968 some of the most famous women in the world were wearing his pieces and along with André Courrèges and Pierre Cardin, he helped to create the 1960s Space Age movement. Dating his pieces can be incredibly difficult but I did find a 1967 photo of Actress Noele Noblecourt wearing a dress that used strips of mirrors and a similar bead technique where they linked. Based on the information given to me by my client I believe that this dress was made in and around this time period. 

The dress is absolutely incredible. The main part of the dress is made up of mirrored triangles. These are hand linked together one by one to create the shape and form that you see. The work and hours that would have went into pre-planning thee shape and figuring out how to lay out the pieces, drilling each hole and linking them together, is mind boggling. As you look closer you realize that the dress is made out of grouping of the triangles and that there is a pattern within the pattern. Each of these shaped sections are made from six triangles that have been linked together. At the centre where they all meet there is a huge crystal tear drop that has been suspended from a metal loop. He then took one of the triangles within each these six triangle clusters and wrapped a length of clear faceted beads over it. The beads have been twisted and curved over the top of that single triangle so gives the dress an even greater 3D feel that is already has. You can see on the back of the triangles that that beadwork was added with silver wire that was hand wrapped around its triangle to secure it into place. The six triangle cluster were then all linked together to form the shape of the dress that you see. To create the shoulder straps he used a linked metal chain set with large glass rhinestones. Each one is prong set within its own casement and then these are linked together by wire. The rhinestone straps are set so that they lie across the top of the front bodice, curve over the shoulders and then lie across the back. The dress skims over the body and ends in an ultra short mini length that shows miles of legs. At the back it closes with Rabanne's signature metal clips that are set to organically down the back, hidden between the triangle clusters, so that there is no apparent line down the back to break the eye. The dress comes with a matching bag that is made out of the exact same technique and has a matching rhinestone chain as its strap. Both piece are very heavy. The dress and bag combined weigh just over ten pounds. The way that this dress catches the light and the soft sound it makes when you move is extraordinary. With your slightest movement the tears drop beads move and the mirrors reflect the light. Most examples from this time period are a monochromatic silver chainmail and it is unusual and rare to find such an ornate example like this, never mind one that still has its matching bag. It is incredible and easily one of the best pieces I have ever seen in all my years doing vintage. Early examples of Rabanne's work are held mainly in museums around the globe and really ornate pieces like this rarely come to market. It is exceptional and appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition

Slips on to wear with metal clamping hinge hooks at the back. The linked together pieces give it an almost bias cut feel as far as the way it sits on the body. It is in incredible condition and appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Completely assembled by hand. Note that this dress is a final sale due to the value and shipping considerations

Dress
Bust: approx 15-16.5" flat across from side to side
Waist: approx to 15" flat across from side to side
Hip: approx 16-18" flat across from side to side
Length: 31" from shoulder to hem

Bag
6"H x 9"W and linked flat together, It expands out because of the links. The rhinestone strap adds another 6.5" to the height of the bag

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-SML

Item# DD3630

Reference Photo: Noele Noblecourt in Paco Rabanne, February 1967.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I think our modern world forgets just how important Oleg Cassini was as a designer in his heyday. From his first film in 1941 he was responsible for many of the best looks on film, dressing stars like Rita Hayworth, Gene Tierney (who he married), Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, Lana Turner and the list goes on and on. In 1952, he opened his own fashion house on Seventh Avenue. By 1961 he was appointed by Jacqueline Kennedy as her exclusive couturier. Some of his early works especially, were more on par with couture, using the same techniques and high fashion fabrics as the French couture houses. This is a later example of his work and yet it still shows the care and meticulous detailing that he put into his work.

The dress is amazing in person. It is made of a black silk chiffon that has been extensively covered with gunmetal silver glass tube beads. The dress is extremely heavy because of the bead work. It weights about 4 pounds and it is gorgeous. The bodice of the dress is suspended by beaded straps and then scoops down with shaping at the front and a lower set line at the back. It has a wide band of beadwork following the top seam and then is shaped by a series of vertically set rows of beads that go all the way around the bodice and end in little jagged ends. It is fitted to the bodice and then nips it in at the waist. The skirt skims over the hips into a pencil shape and then onto that are curved vertical panels that start just under the waist and go to just above the hem. These give the illusion that the skirt is tiered but that ruffled effect is actually created by the panels dropping and layering over each other. I did a photo of it laid out flat so you can get an idea of how much volume is actually in the skirt. When you move the movement this creates is fantastic. Each is finished along the curved edge with a series of stacked rows of beadwork. More vertical bead circle the hips and these are done to pick up that same jagged finish design as on the bodice. The hem is then finished with a wide band of yet more beading. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a black muslin through the bodice and black silk through the skirt. It closes with a back zipper. Hand work throughout. Light boning in the bodice. It looks to have never been worn. Perhaps the occasional bead missing but no bare areas that I could see. 

Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 11.5-12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 42" from shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS

Item# DD3629

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Arnold Scaasi was born Arnold Isaacs in Montreal and the name Scassi is simply his own surname in reverse. He studied in Montreal and in Paris, apprenticed at the house of Paquin and then worked with the legendary Charles James. In 1964 he opened own couture salon. He dressed Hollywood stars like Lauren Bacall, Diahann Carroll and Elizabeth Taylor. He dressed several first ladies including Mamie Eisenhower, Hillary Clinton and both the Bush first ladies. He even once bragged that he refused to give Jackie clothes for free. He was the man behind the scandalous 1969 Barbra Streisand sheer trouser outfit that she collected her Oscar in, and he was presented with the Council of Fashion Designers of America Lifetime Achievement Award in 1996. 

This dress is especially interesting for two reasons. The first is that a very similar version that was done completely in silver was done for Elizabeth Taylor. She wore the dress to the 20th annual Fifi Awards in 1992 and I have dated this one based on that dress. Shortly after her death in 2011, her all silver 'Platinum' version was sold through Christies as part of the 'Collection of Elizabeth Taylor' auction. Due to the association with her name it realized a incredible $72,000USD hammer price. The second interesting thing of note about this dress is that when I posted a preview of the fabric of skirt in my instagram stories I had many people think that the dress was actually the 2016 Balenciaga dress that I have included a photo of here. I ended up getting into a discussion with fashion journalist Alexander Fury about it and he suspects that both fabrics were done by the Jakob Schlaepfer company who has been creating fabrics for the most prestigious fashion brands in the industry for over 100 years. The Balenciaga team most likely selected the archive fabric that the Scassi dress was originally made out of and then had it recreated and tweaked for the Balenciaga dress. This is a common occurrence with the older more prestigious fabric houses and it is fascinating to see such a clear line of the progression between one dress to another. All of this makes this dress a very historically interesting piece. The dress is from his main label and these were made to couture standards.

The dress is a showstopper. The skirt is made out of the silver embroidered and sequinned fabric that you see and the dense application of the embroidered work along with the underlying structure gives it a definitive and structured shape. That shape is all achieved by the inner structure and built in skirting and I did not add any additional underpinnings. The bodice is made out of a deep green silk velvet. It is shaped and fitted to the body. The waist is cut to nip in sharply. I love how the silver embroidery on the skirt is set on a sharp upward angled point at the front and then the neckline angles down towards that in its own sharp point. The sleeves are amazing. Each is set high on the shoulder and explode outward in hand gathered high poufed silhouette to create maximum volume. They are wonderfully dramatic and full with inner built in layers of silk and tulle to hold the volume. The inner construction of this dress is as amazing as the exterior. The very inner skirt is made from a fine deep green silk with a broad band of horsehair taping inside the bottom hem. Between that and the outer layer of silk are layers of stiffened white netted tulle. The sleeves are equally incredible and are shaped to have that gorgeous fullness to them. Each has an inner finish of tulle netting to hold the shape. The bodice is corseted and boned. The inside is exquisitely constructed and it is all hand finished. This is a stunning dress and the history associated with it makes it that much more fascinating. Excellent  condition with a minor note below

Fully lined in a fine deep green silk. The skirt is finished with attached inner skirts as described above. The sleeves are finished with tulle inside the lining. It closes with a hand set back metal zipper. The bodice is boned and shaped all the way around. Finished to couture standards by hand. At some point a repair was done to the edge of the inner tulle of the skirt. Otherwise looks to have been worn very little if at all. 

Bust: to 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 58" from top of shoulder to hem with approx another 4' turned under the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS

Item# DD3614

Reference Photos: (1) Elizabeth Taylor wearing Arnold Scaasi at the 20th annual Fifi Awards, 1992.  /  (2-4) 1990s Arnold Scaasi Dress from The Collection of Elizabeth Taylor's Auction for Christie's.  /  (5-8) F/W 2016 Balenciaga Runway Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Jean Paul Gaultier's career spans decades. His first show was in 1976 and his avant garde designs quickly gained him the reputation of being fashion's 'l'enfant terrible'. His designs mixed cultures with abandon, gender norms were blurred through his pieces and the body was presented encased in ways unimaginable prior to his brilliant vision. In 1997 he entered the sanctified world of Haute Couture and for just over two decades produced stunning work cumulating with his final show for Spring 2020. His pieces of couture rarely come to market and I am very pleased to have this dress that is very well documented and instantly recognizeable. This is the twin of the dress shown for the Fall 2000 Haute Couture presentation entitled 'Paris and its Muses'. I have included the original runway photos for reference here for you. The dress was also photoed for Vanity fair on Doutzen Kroes. Fast forward to 2013 where the twin of this dress was featured in the The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk exhibit. I actually attended the opening of that show in San Francisco and it is surreal to now have the actual dress in hand as I remember swooning over it on display. This dress was obviously a favourite of Jean Paul's because he chose to recreate a version of it for his Fall 2018 Couture collection. That 2018 version was then worn by Rita Ora for the 2018 MTV VMAs. This may have been the only original piece ever produced beyond the piece that was shown in the exhibition. 

The dress is an incredible work of art. It is made from a layer of silk netting that falls over an interior nude coloured lingerie weight stretch silk. This makes it very easy to wear and be comfortable in despite the dramatic feel it has to everyone seeing it. Onto the silk netting at hand made and hand applied tubes of silk with a stiffened netting inside that gives them the 3D dimension that you see. The entire dress would have had to have been careful planned out prior to its creation. Every single word that you see running over its surface would have had to have been laid out and planned for how it would be placed onto the dress before it was even started. Each word would have had to have been figured out as to the degree it would curve over the body and then it would have been all meticulously brought to life. The letters cover the dress from head to toe and the closer you look the more you see the French words 'Cherie',  'Mon Amour', 'Jean Paul Gaultier', 'Paris' and more as the hand written script cascade and curves it way down the length of the dress. It falls from the shoulders in a long swoop that widens out as it nears the hem. I love how the hem is curved and swooped to follow the final words across the bottom. The script and the netting inside the words also helps to keep the shape of the dress that you see in my photos as they act as structure and support. In a way like a crinoline but attached on the outside rather then worn underneath and hidden. The top is sleeveless and the straps are just wide enough to accommodate the lettering that runs over them. The front scoops down and the back dips into a V. The waist is easy and then it flares out dramatically to the hem. It is bias cut so should fit a range of sizes. Inside you can see how all of the seams are finished with proper couture techniques. This is a dress that would have taken hundreds of hours to complete and is literally like wearing an art piece come to life. To have a piece available for purchase is almost as rare as being able to have bought it as a couture client in the first place. Truly one of the most magnificent pieces he has ever created. Excellent condition with some very minor notes below 

Composed of two layers, the inner nude lingerie weight stretch silk and then the netted layer over that. The inner layer closes with a zipper and the outer layer snaps to close with a tightly spaced series of tiny snaps.  The dress looks to have been worn very little if at all. There is some minor stress to the netting around the seam of the armholes. I see a couple of the ends of a word that have popped through the silk a bit and some small tiny snags to the netting here and there. All of these are very minor. Please see the photos after the Couture label. All the work is done by hand to Haute Couture standards. Proper Couture tag present. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Sourced from the original couture client  

Bust: 15-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15 " flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 62" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3612

Reference Photos: (1-2) Fall 2000 Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Runway Collection.  /  (3) Doutzen Kroes in Jean Paul Gaultier couture from the 2000 collection for Vanity Fair, 2009.  /  (4-8) Jean Paul Gaultier exhibition at the Grand Palais, 2015.  /  (9) Fall 2018 Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Runway Collection. Look 34.  /  (10-12) Rita Ora in Jean Paul Gaultier at the 2018 MTV VMAs.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is a lovely dress by Reem Acra who for twenty years has been producing ready to wear and bridal collection. Her pieces tend to combine traditional elements with modern aesthetics and her work can be very beautiful. This was shown on the Spring 2006 runway with a slightly different bodice and then a version with sleeves and upper shoulders was used for the Bridal campaign ads that year and that one matches the bodice of the one I have in the shop today. 

The dress is very simple in cut and very flattering. It is made out of a pale silver grey silk chiffon through the skirting and then the bodice is a silk satin that is covered in a combination off seed beads and prong set rhinestones. The strapless bust is set in a high empire line and it is meant to be fitted and just cover the breasts. It is boned and formed inside to created that banded effect and to keep it in place. On to this is a lovely and intricate design that covers the entire bust all the way around. The design combines the tiniest of silver seed beads with small rhinestones. These catch the light and add a bit of glamour against the grey silk chiffon. Under the bust the skirt falls to the floor in a cascade of silk chiffon. It is feather light and made up of multiple layers of silk. There are two top layers of silk chiffon and then under that are two more layers of a silk dyed to the exact same colour. There are lots of little details that portray its high end origins. Each of the two pairs of layers of skirting are attached by little slips on the side so they hang perfectly in place. And at the back each layer closes with its own zipper and closure. It is very beautiful and even better in person as the camera doesn't quite capture the right shade of soft grey that it is or the glimmer of the rhinestones as they catch the light. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition

Has a built in inner corset through the bust that is boned and closes with a back zipper. Another zipper closes a layer over that and then the outermost layer snaps into place. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little.

Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under the bust: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 5.5" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 46" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3573

Reference Photos: (1-2) Spring 2006 Reem Acra Runway Collection.  /  (3) 2006 Reem Acra Bridal.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

In 1962 Capucci opened his first atelier in Paris and took the fashion world by storm. In 1968 he went back to his native Rome and opened his atelier there. By 1972 his work was presented in a museum in Rome at the Museum of Etruscan Art. A remarkable achievement for a living designer. He exhibited again in 1990 and in 2005 he founded the Roberto Capucci Foundation to preserve his numerous drawing and archives. His pieces tend to be highly architectural and the ones you see in exhibits border on not being wearable, so it is a treat to find a beautiful and highly wearable example of his work.

From the late 1970s comes this fabulous little deep blue chiffon dress that is cut to flow and drape over the body. The neck is cut wide to give a glimpse of the upper shoulders and the sleeves flow from there in an expanse of volume and fullness to above the buttoned wrist. The skirt has yards and yards of chiffon and flows to the floor in a pretty, light expanse of fabric. The back and bodice are especially pretty with their pin tuck lattice design that is detailed with a little clear beads where each pin tuck crosses over the other. It is lovely and a rare example of a hard to find designers work. Excellent condition

Fully lined except for the sleeves and closes with a back zipper on the interior fabric and snaps on the outer. Each cuff closes with a hidden snap under a silk covered button detail. Hand finished inside and hand applied beads.

Sleeves: 24" approx.
Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from shoulder to waist
Skirt: 45" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD2753

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

In its heyday the Gene Shelly of California label was highly sought after. The label was doing some of the best of the early sequinned vintage pieces that you could find anywhere on the planet. All of the sequin work that covers this dress was done by hand in Hong Kong on American manufactured fabric. The company would send the fabric to be hand sequinned and beaded. After that was done the fabric would be sent back to California where the dresses were made. At the time, Hong Kong was doing the best sequin and bead work in the world outside of the specialty ateliers in Paris. This dress is not perfect but it is still very beautiful and with a little work it could be perfect again. 

This dress is especially interesting because it bears many similarities to the one I sold before that ended up being the twin of one worn by Diana Ross and The Supremes. This dress has a very similar layout of the beads and sequins but it has been done on a silk based rather then a knit. This base of this one is a beautiful pale ice blue that perfectly sets off the silver sequins that are applied to it. There are hundreds of silver sequins that are laid out flat onto the silk from shoulder to hem. Each sequin has been meticulously applied by hand into its set place. Every inch of the fabric is covered with sequins and the dress glimmers in even the lowest of light. Set in among the silver sequins are big faceted pink and coral paste crystals. These circle the neckline like a built in piece of jewellery. There is also wide band of them applied around the lower skirt. Each crystal has been is hand sewn into place and they are large enough that they each have a 3D effect. Tiny faux pearls and seed beads outline them. Around the neck line and sleeves are coral beads and faux pearls. The dimension and texture created from the result of all of this hand work is wonderful. The dress itself is immensely flattering with its figure hugging shape and all of the seams in it are set vertically to give the wearer a beautiful long line. The base dress is in excellent condition but there are sequins missing. Please review the condition notes below.

The base is an icy blue silk  and the dress closes with a painted metal zipper at the back. The sequins and embellishments are all applied by hand.There are areas of missing sequins. Most notably across the upper shoulders and down the top of the cap sleeves. Some other areas in the body of the dress. These could be filled in with modern silver sequins. Or it could be worn as is. Priced with the work needed to make it perfect taken into account. Please review the photos after the label shot. 

Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 55" from top of dress to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3502

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Renato Balestra launched his couture label in Rome in 1951. His work quickly gained international fame and was one of the cornerstone ateliers of the Italian couture 'Alta Moda' movement. On their website they state: 'The Balestra brand blends the mastery of the artisans and the style of the designer to express its vision to the fullest, thanks to hundreds of hours of craftmanship and the highest attention to details.' This is a beautiful example of his work and is in remarkable condition. This particular piece has the added provenance of having been more for the Ebony Fashion Fair and could very well be the only one ever made exactly like this. 

The jumpsuit is made from a very fine silk satin that uses both a yellow and a purple for an electric clash of colours. The purple silk is used for the halter cut top of the jumpsuit and then a bright clear yellow has been used for the wide cut pants that start just under the high set waist. Under the bust the same purple silk has been individually cut into an intricate design and laid out onto the yellow silk. This was then appliqued onto the silk using a mix of a purple metallic thread embroidery, rhinestones and tiny tube beads to give it a 3D feel. These have all been meticulously laid out and done by hand. This touch of glitter around the waist is what gives the jumpsuit its sparkle and glitz. The bodice is simple and perfect with a deep V front that plunges right to the band under the bust. A sweet little flat bow sits there for detailing. The back secures with a hook and eye at the neck and then is left open in a long slit to the banding at the waist. The pants are cut wide and full so that you have this beautiful long line and a touch of movement when you move. The interior is all done to Haute Couture standards and is beautiful to see. The top is lined in a hand set silk crepe and the pants have been interlined with a yellow silk chiffon. The workmanship and care need to work with these types of fabric when all the work is done by hand cannot be underplayed. This would have taken hours of meticulous hand work to accomplish. The workmanship is exquisite and the liquidity of the fabric and the cut of the jumpsuit once on the body is very sexy. Excellent condition

Fully lined through the bodice in a hand set purple silk and fully interlined through the pants with a yellow silk chiffon. It closes with a hand set zipper starting at the waist and then has a hook & eye at the back of the neck. This leaves an open slit between the two at the back. All hand finished with hand finished interior seams and all the beadwork and embroidery work is done by hand to Haute Couture standards. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Note that the yellow in person is a slightly lighter shade then how it photoed. It did not quite do up all the way on my mannequin at the back but will close as described above on the proper sized person for its size. 

Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam at under-bust: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 13" from top of bodice to seam under the bust
Pants: 46" from seam under the bust to hem
inseam: 35"

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3498

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This elaborately sequin and bead covered dress is even better in person. The workmanship on it is outstanding with a dense, hand applied application of large black paillettes, smaller sequins, beads and curving ropes of seed bead work that give it even more of a 3D effect. The bead work covers every square inch of the fabric and each one has been meticulously placed by hand onto the black stretch knit base. Once that dress is actually on, it hugs and molds to the body. The dress has a very intentional simple cut to offset the extensive bead work. It is a chic sheath silhouette with a slightly nipped in waist, long skirt, a barely there suggestion of a cap sleeve and a V neck. The back is also finished with a V cut that is set so that it dips lower down the back then the front. The hand work done on the dress gives it a three dimensional quality as they are set raised up from the knit. Glossy black flowers are formed from the combination of the various beads used and thick ropes of twisted black seed beads loop and curve through the design from top to bottom. Everything has a high gloss finish and I love the way it gleams in the light. It is also a great wearable size and the knit base makes it feel fantastic once on and extremely comfortable to wear. Excellent condition.

The bead work and sequins are hand applied onto what feels like a cashmere mix knit base. It closes with a back metal zipper. The edges of the slit on the skirt are finished with a black silk panel of fabric but it is otherwise unlined. The knit gives it quite a bit of stretch and the measurements give below are the comfortable range lying flat. You may be able to get a bit more then that if needed.  It still has the high end department store Neusteters label but if it had another designer label at some point that is now a mystery.

Bust: 18-22" flat across the back from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14-17" flat across the back from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18-22" flat across the back from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from shoulder to waist seam
Skirt: 37" from waist to bottom hem

Modern Sizing equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# E416

Reference Photo: Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival

Guy Laroche began working for Jean Desses in 1949 and eventually launches his own Haute Couture label in 1957 at 37 Avenue Franklin Roosevelt in Paris. He was known for being gracious and humble and eventually ventured into ready to wear in 1961. This dress is from his Haute Couture label and is even though it is not perfect, it is a beautiful example of the work he was doing in Paris at the height of his career. Laroche once was quoted as saying "“It is my intention to try and adapt haute couture to modern requirements: to make dresses that are simple and chic.” 

The dress is very beautiful and of course made to exquisite standards. It is entirely hand made and bears the Haute Couture label. It is made out of a heavy ivory silk. The cut of the dress is simple. The neckline is cut wide across so that you get just a glimpse of the top of the collarbones. The sleeves are to the elbow and are cut wide and straight. There is just the suggestion of shape through the waist and then it falls to the floor in a gently widening curve. Inside the hem the skirt is weighted so that it always falls perfectly and this also helps to hold the intended shape that you see. The entire bodice is densely covered in a combination of tiny black seed beads and large black paillettes. These are set on 3 dimensional loops that cover the upper shoulders and sleeves and then gradually become more of a flat embellishment and are spaced out more as they reach the waist area. Because of the way they are set onto the silk these have a ton of movement so when it is on and you move they have a real tactile quality to them. At first glance the dress seems to be in great condition and it is structurally sound but it does have scuffing and light marks throughout. I have included lots of photos after the label shot. Even with the small flaws it is an incredible example of couture being produced at this time period. Good overall condition

Fully lined in a white silk organza through the bodice and a silk through the skirt. It closes at the back with a hand set fine painted metal zipper. Weighted hem and completely made by hand. Haute Couture label preset. Scuffing, light foxing and small water marks throughout. Please review the photos after the label shot and read the description above.

Sleeves: 15"
Slightly dropped shoulders: 16"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 54.5" from top of shoulder to front hem, 56" to back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3432

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Ruben Panis was known for his flair for drama. He started off his career designing costumes for showgirls in Las Vegas and eventually honed his skills by working for both James Galanos and Norman Norell. His gowns were worn by many Hollywood icons like Elizabeth Taylor, Zsa Zsa Gabor. At the height of his career he was charging up to $5000 for a dress which at the time was an exorbitant amount. This is an excellent example of his work and very well made.

The dress is made out of a beautiful silk jersey that has been dyed to a clear, bright red. The way it is cut is very forties in feel with a bit of that old Hollywood charm. The bust is gathered in soft horizontal drapes that run from the top of the bodice to the top of the hip. Inside it is lightly boned. This gives it structure as well as creating a beautiful curving line that accentuates the body underneath. Running up and around the neck is a tiny strap made of the same jersey. This strap hooks into place at one side and you have the option of tucking it in and wearing the dress as a strapless piece. The skirt falls to the floor under that and the jersey gives it lots of swing and movement. To finish the dress, Panis added a little drama with elaborate beading that runs on each side of the dress. A large abstract flower with dangling bead in its center sits on each side. The petals are ling and curved. The effect is wonderful. Excellent condition.

The bodice is lined in a red silky rayon and the skirt has an inner lining made of the same jersey fabric. It closes with a back, painted metal zipper and the strap hooks at one end. Light boning through the bodice and hand finishes.

Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 15" from top of neck to natural waist, 20" to bottom of the draping
Skirt: approx 42" from natural waist

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3304

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This dress is from the archive of the Roman couture house Tiziani, which was founded in 1963 by American designer Evans Richards. The label quickly became a favorite among celebrities and socialites including Elizabeth Taylor, who was a regular client; Doris Duke, Gina Lollobrigida, and Principessa Borghese. The label is also famous because of the fact that as a young designer, Karl Lagerfeld accepted a job there. Lagerfeld worked at Tiziani from 1963 to 1969. This piece is unlabeled but has the provenance of being a part of a past auction that featured the sketches and a few select pieces of work from Karl Lagerfeld's time at the label, this dress being one of them.

The dress is constructed from a fine purple silk that has been adorned with dense areas of hand beading. It is almost overtly ornate in its design and is a strong statement piece. The bodice has a V neck that is edged with pink silk satin trimming. This same ruffled trim work circles under the bust and at the waist. It is carried through and around the sleeves, the cuffs and the hem. The sleeves are full and pouf above the wrists. Each sleeve also has a dense panel of bead work circling the elbow area. More beads adorn the bust and run around one side of the skirt. The bead work is extremely fine and mixes embroidery work, real metallic thread, seed beads, crystals and larger beads. These give the dress a touch of glitz and sparkle, The green of the designs pops against the purple silk and I love the 3D feel this detailing adds to the piece. The bottom of the skirt is finished with knife pleating and the work done there is meticulous. The construction of the dress is entirely by hand and it is done to couture levels. It is extraordinary and an amazing piece of fashion history. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a purple silk and closes with a back zipper. Each cuff buttons to close. The inner skirt is finished with an extremely wide stiffened hem encased in silk that helps to give the skirt structure and the slight bit of volume you see. All hand work through out and made to couture standards. Light padding in each shoulder. There is the tiniest of fading to the edge of the purple silk lining on the inner arms that does not effect the exterior in anyway. 

Sleeves: 23.5"
Slightly dropped shoulders: 16.5"
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 11" from neck to first seam under the bust, and 17.5" from neck to waist
Skirt: 42" from the dropped waist seam to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Reference Photo: Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture.

Item# DD3251

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This wonderful gown with its exquisitely beaded bodice and attached cape is a numbered Haute Couture piece designed by Pierre Balmain. Both pieces would have been  made entirely by hand at the Paris atelier and the bead work done by Lesage. We found a similar gown from that same Couture collection that was featured in Harper's Bazaar that year It is an extraordinary example of the work being done during this time period of the label's history and is very beautiful.

The impact that this gown has cannot be denied. You instantly get the feel of Ancient Greece and yet is has a touch of modernity to it as well. It dress is made out of a very fine ivory silk chiffon. The neckline is high and the skirt flows to the floor with two layers of of silk chiffon over an interior silk skirt. The bodice is covered with hand placed glass tube beads that is most likely the workmanship of the famed Lesage ateliers. Eash bead has been carefully placed by hand and then they are mixed with a real metal gold thread that has been used to outline the design created with the beads. More of that same metallic thread is used to create a gold and ivory braiding that runs down the front and back and highlight the neckline. The cape detail on this one is unusual and really what makes it extra special. This cape is made of that same high end ivory silk chiffon. It ties at the front neck but it also is secured to the shoulders so that it stays perfectly in place no matter how you move, stand or sit. It is attached by tiny snaps, hidden under the inside collar of the neckline. There are endless couture level details put into this one and the workmanship throughout is perfectly and meticulously done. It is an amazing example of the fine workmanship and attention to detail of Haute Couture. and it is a true piece of fashion history. Excellent condition with one small note to review below

The dress is fully lined in an ivory through the bodice and innermost skirt. The skirt has two layers of silk over the inner lining. There may be the occasional loose or missing bead or thread. Both pieces have their numbered tag present under the main label and both bear the same number of 764027. Hand finished. It closes with a hand set, back painted metal zipper. I see one tiny yellowed spot on one tie and a pinpoint of a spot on the cape. There are two teeny smudges on the lower portion of the skirt. None of these detract - I am just being super picky. There is a slight darkening to the silk around the waist under the seam. I have photoed it all the way around and you can see that after the photos of the Couture label.

Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 42" from waist to hem
Cape: 57"

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD2945

Reference Photo: Gleb Derujinsky in Pierre Balmain, Harper's Bazaar, April 1961.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

American couturier, James Galanos, made gowns with a level of craftsmanship that left even France’s most esteemed couturiers astonished that an American could equal their craft. The immaculate construction of a Galanos gowns are amazing. His price points were high, but his clients were more then willing to pay for the quality of what they received. He was a master cutter and he used proper couture techniques to create his pieces. Galanos was particularly known for his evening wear and this is one of the most glamorous pieces I have ever seen from him. It is truly extraordinary and I have never seen another like it.

This dress needs an actual body in it to really come to life. As gorgeous as it looks in my photos, it will look even better once on. The fabric is amazing. It is a black silk net that has little explosions of gold and silver covering its surface. Each of these three dimensional 'dots' is make from silver and gold tinsel lame that has been set into the net and tufts out from it. These are densely applied over every inch of the dress and each would have been done by hand. The way that these catch the light and make the entire dress glint is wonderful. The dress is cut in a classic baby doll with a high thin bodice that sits low on the bust and is suspended from the shoulder by two thin straps covered in the 3D tinsel florettes. The bust is then detailed by a band of of hand applied matte gold sequins set just underneath the bust. The skirt explodes out from under that in a  full and voluminous curve to the floor. Once on an actual body, the effect of this volume is even more pronounced. Under the top netted layer is a base of gold knit lame that adds to the metallic feel of the dress. I love how the bottom hem is finished in the same band of gold sequins that sit under the bust, even though you just barely glimpse them through the netting that lies over the inner skirt. It also comes with a matching jacket made of the same gold and silver detailed netting. This is cut loose and wide through the body with no front closures. Each sleeve of the jacket is cut wide and full. It is an extraordinary set. Excellent condition

The bodice is lined in a nude silk organza and support is added by shaping seams and grosgrain. The body of the dress is lined in a olive toned, fine silk. It closes with a back painted metal and nylon zipper. The jacket slips on with no closures.

Dress
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Under bust seam: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips at inner lining: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 11.5" from top of shoulder strap to lower edge of the sequin waist band
Skirt: 46" from lower edge of the sequin waist band to hem

Jacket
Sleeves: 21"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist-hips: open
Length: 22" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3234

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This wonderful dress would date to the late teens or perhaps the early 1920s. Dresses of this age are rarely 100% perfect and this one does have some small areas that are starting to show weakness, but overall is still very strong even after all of these years. It is a wonderful example of the workmanship that was being done during this time period.

The dress is made from a fine silk chiffon that has been covered in a dense pattern of glossy black jet tube and seed beads mixed with larger glass jet beads. The design is very extensive and is set over the entire surface of the dress. The execution of the design is very well done and it is quite beautiful. The bead work covers both the front and the back of the dress and the hand work involved would have taken hours and hours to finish. The dress is cut in a classic flapper tube shape with a high set neck and a long body with no defined waist. The silk chiffon top layer sits over an inner silk satin which is what has give the dress its stability and longevity. I love the romantic touches of the wispy bits of silk chiffon that finish each sleeve and care set to curve around the arm. Floating panels of chiffon sit on each hip and give the skirts a slight volume at the sides. Circled around the dropped waist is a heavily embellished belt that is made of large black glass beads that ends with a long tassel of beads hanging down one hip. This is then caught up and finished with a silk and velvet pink flower for a pretty pop of color against the black. It is incredibly beautiful and entirely made by hand. Excellent antique condition.

Lined with the inner silk satin dress under the chiffon overlay. The dress slips on to wear. The shoulders at the seams are starting to show signs of aging - please see the photos provided - you could reinforce them but I have left the dress as found and all original. There may be other areas of weakness here and there as well but I don't see any readily apparent ones. The bead and jet beads seem to be entirely present with perhaps the occasional one missing around the edge of the neck. The attached belt detail that wraps around the waist has no hook - I have twisted it in place for the photos. I think once the new owner gets it you should add a hook or secure it where it sits best on you. Some small areas of shattering on some of the inner silk petals of the flower. Even with these small defects the dress is remarkably sound and shockingly beautiful. It is almost 100 years old and is considered to be in museum quality condition.

Note that antique and twenties pieces are final sale. They will be packed exceedingly well and we only sell pieces that will stand up to the stress of shipping, however, having pieces potentially shipped multiple times through multiple customs and countries is too hard on garments that are historically important and deserve to be treated with love and care. Please purchase accordingly.

Shoulders: no defined seams
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 41 from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# E485

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Harvey Berin opened his self-named label in 1921 and by the 1940s his label was considered to be a leader in American fashion. The pieces were actually designed by Karen Stark, his wife's sister, though it is said that all designs had to meet with Berin's approval before going into production. The dresses were made with high end finishes and were often based on the Parisian couture designs of the season. By 1952 Stark had won a Coty award. This dress is one of the best I have seen from the label and is extraordinary.

The dress is absolutely wonderful and could easily stand side by side with any of the couture dresses being produced in this time frame. The base fabric is a pale ivory with just the barest touch of blush to it. It then has a beautiful floral and leaf pattern worked into the silk that is made from a nude toned netting. The weave of the netting varies and these variations become a layer of the design itself. Over these fabrics the dress has been densely beaded with thousands and thousands of little white glass seed beads. These are applied by hand in a dense scattering cover over the main silk part. More beads are worked into dense ropes that follow the edges of each leave and flower. More beads are used to make up the inner design of the flowers and leaves. The heavy profusion of beads makes the dress feel that is has a good solid couture feeling weight to it. The cut is kept simple to off-set that amazing design. The straps are cut wide and curve over each shoulder. The bust is fitted with a sweetheart neckline at the front and a simple scoop at the back. The waist nips in and the skirt flares out to be very full under that. I put a light crinoline under it for the photos and I think you could go even fuller if you wished. In person the dress has far more impact and beauty then the photos could ever convey. You will honestly be floored when you see it in person. The color is a more true ivory-nude and the dress has more depth and a 3D effect in real life. It is wonderful and would perhaps even make a fabulous wedding dress for the bride looking for something non-traditional. Excellent condition with a couple of tiny items to note below.

Fully lined in a pale pink silk and closes with a side set painted metal zipper. There is a teeny tiny area of the slightest of darkening to the fabric under one arm and a couple of tiny storage spots. Nothing that I feel detracts in any way. I have photoed the areas and you can see then after the shot of the label. Hand finished throughout. There is a 4.5" hem turned up and it appears that someone has turned it up at some point already and this prior shortening takes up about 2.5" of the total

Bust: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 29" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3218

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This Malcolm Starr silk chiffon gown is wonderful. The unusual color combination of that soft pink combined with a soft pale yellow is brilliant and the two colors really compliment each other. The dress has a simple and classic cut - it is a simple sheath with a seamed, easy waist line and a long skirt that cascades to the floor. It is sleeveless with a scooped front and slightly lower scoop at the back. The bodice is cut to draping softly over the bodice with an inner foundation that leaves the upper shoulder area covered only in one layer of the silk chiffon. The waist is seamed but cut loose and generously and the skirt cascades to the floor in a column of silk under that, slightly widening out as it nears the hem. The chiffon has a pretty abstract pattern screened onto it in soft lilacs and pinks on an pale yellow. Onto this and following parts of the pattern glass tube beads, paillettes and crystals with a more dense embellishment circling the waist. All are hand applied. The effect is beautiful. This beading is done from shoulder to hem and gives the gown an added bit of high glamour while still keeping that soft, feminine feel. Excellent condition.

Fully lined in a yellow silk. It closes with a painted back metal zipper. Hand applied bead-work and finished.

Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 14" from neck to waist
Skirt: 40" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3054

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

There are 4 or 5 Burrows dresses that I always look for and this dress is one of those. The dress is made out of a fine, slinky, red jersey. I have seen the top of these cut in a couple of different way and on this one it ties around the neck leaving the shoulders bare. The dress falls to the floor from there in a beautiful bias cut that and ends with an angled, asymmetrical hem that leaves one leg more bare. The edges of the dress are finished in his signature lettuce hem seaming. The front bodice is where all the glitz and glam is and it is finished with a design that is done in sequins, seed beads and tube beads that pop against the red. All of the bead work has been applied by hand. You can clearly see this is the case on the back side of the fabric. Burrows was the first African American fashion designer to really achieve international recognition for his work. He won three Coty awards; in 1973, 1974 and 1977. He was also one of the five American designers to show at Versailles in 1973 when America was pitted against the French couturiers. Excellent condition

Recently, the first major examination of Burrows' work was held and was aptly titled; 'When Fashion Danced'. Here is what the museum said of his work: "Stephen Burrows: When Fashion Danced looks at the period spanning the 1970s when Stephen Burrows’s meteoric rise to fame made him not only the first African-American designer to gain international stature, but a celebrated fashion innovator whose work helped define the look of a generation. With vibrant colors, metallic fabrics, and slinky silhouettes that clung to the body, Burrows’s danceable designs generated a vibrant look that was of a piece with the glamorous, liberated nightlife of the era. Through photographs, drawings, and original garments, the exhibition will trace Burrows’s evolution from creating eclectic looks for his friends in the 1960s to his work with the chic 57th Street retailer Henri Bendel to the floor of Studio 54, as he dressed such 70s style icons as Cher, Liza Minnelli, and Diana Ross."

Unlined and slips over the head with no closures. Tagged a vintage 4 but please check actual measurements. The fabric does have stretch so will accommodate a range of sizes - the comfortable range of that stretch when laying flat is noted in the measurements.

Bust: variable as there are no true side seam
Waist: 15-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19-22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: approx 58-60" from top of shoulder to longest point of hem, 40-42" to the shortest part depending on high you tie the neck.

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Item# DD2802

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.