True Haute Couture pieces by Chanel are an extraordinary find as they are so very rare and hard to come by. This one, like several other of the Haute Couture pieces in the shop at the moment, are from one of my clients whose mother purchased the majority of her Couture pieces between 1973 to the mid and late seventies.

The dress is made of two layers. There is an inner silk dress that acts as the lining, and then an outer layer over that, made from a semi-transparent silk chiffon. The silk chiffon used on the outer layer is especially fine and it has a beautiful red floral design screened onto the black with a secondary print suggesting an exotic animal print. The straps of the inner dress are made of that same fabric as is the matching belt that cinches in the waist. When the two pieces are layered over each other the result is wonderful. The outer dress gives the dress a very light and airy feel that is very feminine. The dress is so well made that I could not decide which way it sat better. I decided to photograph it both ways. First with the buttons down the front and then with it turned around to have the buttons run down the back. The neckline is collarless and simply ties above the row of silk covered buttons that start a slit keyhole between them and the tie. The bodice is cut to sit looser over the inner slip and the sleeves are full, poufing up above their buttoned cuffs. The skirt is a masterpiece of soft pleat work all the way around the hips. Each individual pleat is done by hand and precisely spaced. These give the skirt it's flounced feel. The matching silk fabric belt hook and ties into place to cinch in the waist. As good as it is on the dress form, it will be even better on an actual body. It is entirely made by hand and has its Haute Couture tag and numbered tape behind the tag present on the interior dress. Excellent condition

The exterior dress is unlined and closes with a tie at the neck and silk covered buttons. It has an inner waist stay that hooks to close. The interior dress act as the lining and closes with a handset side painted metal zip. Matching original belt. Finished to Haute Couture standards. Haute Couture label present with interior tape number 54878. The dress appears to have been worn very little if at all.

Outer Dress
Sleeves: 24.5"
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 16" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 28" from waist to hem

Inner Dress
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 42" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3010

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is an exceptional piece of vintage Chanel and a rare find. This is a very early piece of Karl's work for Chanel. His first collection was in 1983 and  it is amazing to have a verified piece from just a few short years into his long career there. A version of the dress made of the same fabric walked the runway that season and we were able to find that reference photo. The hand written tag on the dress is also marked 1986 and there is a special order tag from Bergdorf's with the exact date and client name. It is a wonderful example of the work that Karl was doing for Chanel during this time period.

The dress is made from a of a metallic gold thread set on a black silk chiffon. The effect that this gives is that it is a gold lace. You only realize that it is made of that fine gold metal thread as you get closer to it. This fabric treatment also gives it a touch of a 3D feel. Under the top part of the dress is a inset bodice made out of black silk chiffon. This leaves the upper shoulders and arms covered in just a single layer of the chiffon and gold so you get a touch of transparency there. The cut of the dress has been kept fairly simple so that the fabric can take center stage. The neckline is set slightly wide and the edges of it follow the lace pattern. The sleeves are long and the bodice is cut to skim over the buts and waist. This  then flares out to the hem of the skirt. The front is cut to a more cocktail length and this curves down into a longer back skirt that is a true maxi length by the time it reaches the longest point of the back hem. This high low cut is tremendously fabulous and it lets the dress have more range. You are able to wear it to both a less formal cocktail affair, yet it will still work for a formal event as well. It has the Chanel boutique label with a hand written label below that with the date and other information. It is beautifully made. Excellent condition

Full lined in a fine black silk chiffon with an inner chiffon bodice suspended by tiny straps and in inner silk skirt. Hand finishes. The inner bodice has its own zipper to close it and then the outer layer closes with a series of buttons and loops down the back.Buttons and loop at each cuff. Cut slightly on the bias so may come up a touch in length when on depending on your frame

Sleeves: approx 23"
Shoulders: no true defined seam
Inner bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: to 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 49" from top of shoulder to front hem, 60" to back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3345

Reference Photo: Ines de la Fressange models for Chanel 1986-1987 Fall-Winter collection. Photo by Pierre Vauthey.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This Chanel hat is amazing and I was very pleased to find a photo of Stella tenant wearing a version of it from the Fall 1996 collection. The hat is made to sit lightly on the top of the head. You can play with which direction you wish the feathers to face. It can literally be worn with the feathers at the front, either side, or at the back, This gives it so much versatility and the feel of it completely changes depends on how you have it sit on the head. It has an attached comb that holds it in place and then the glossy black feathers rise up from there for a very Haute Couture feel. It is an instant shot of high glamour to any outfit and a very collectible piece of Chanel. Excellent condition

Secures to the head with a comb. The base of a black felt wool and the feathers are still glossy and strong with no shedding. It will fit any size head. Each side of the triangle shape measures about 8" long.

Item# A339

Reference Photo: Stella Tennant by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel F/W 1996.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Without doubt this is truly an exceptional piece of vintage Chanel and a rare find. It is a wonderful example of the work that Chanel was creating during this time period. Both pieces are made from a of a metallic red silk lurex fabric that is very light and fine. Over that fabric, a black chenille cord has been hand applied into a twisting pattern that runs over the entirety of the set. There is a slight padding under the lurex so that it gives it a touch of a 3D feel as well. Both the jacket and the skirt are lined in a black tissue silk. The cut on each piece is simple so that the fabric can take center stage. The jacket has that classic Chanel box cut with no closures at the front. The edges are all lined in the same chenille cording that runs over the fabric. The skirt is cut to fit around the hips and then widens out as it nears the hem. Pockets sit on each hip. The fabric is not heavy but has enough weight to it that both pieces hold their shape. It has the Chanel boutique label in the jacket and the skirt has a hand written tape label inside which tells us that this was most likely a custom, or special order piece based on the runway look. It is made to demi-couture standards. Excellent condition

Full lined in a fine black tissue silk. Hand finished throughout. The jacket has no closures and the skirt closes with hand set zipper at the back and hook and eye at the waist band. Light padding in the shoulders of the jacket and pockets along the side seams on the skirt. Tape label reads "14122141" though the last number maybe be something else.

Jacket
Sleeves: 22.5"
Shoulders: 16"
Bust: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 20" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 23.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 43" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD2625

Photo credits: (1) F/W 1981 Chanel Runway Collection.  /  (2-3) Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon.   /  (4-6) Sarah Catharine Paulson in our Chanel suit attends the Costume Designer Guild Awards 2019, Styling by Karla Welch

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

It is always wonderful to have a true piece of Haute Couture and this Chanel suit is to absolutely beautiful. It has the added binus of being a documented piece as its near twin is held in The Met Museums collection and I would hazard to say that our version is even prettier and the buttons on ours makes it that much more special (see the final reference photo provided). The current cost of a Chanel Haute couture suit is in the tens of thousands of dollars so the investment in a vintage version is not only smart but a prudent use of your dollars.

This beautiful suit has all of its proper Chanel Haute Couture labels and numbered tapes and it has all of the hallmarks of the Chanel suit present. The chain at the inner hem, the vertically stitched inner quilt effect used during this time period and the fine, inner workmanship, all done entirely by hand. It is constructed from a classic Chanel boucle that upon close inspection is actually a mix of a green, blue, coral and purple wool. all woven and thatched together. The proprietary boucle Chanel uses gives the fabric structure and stability one way and a slight bias cut effect the other. This is what creates that perfect fit that Chanel suits have. The fabric has the movement to really sculpt to the wearer and yet retains the shape and cut at the same time. The skirt falls to just below the knee with a slight flared cut and exactly spaced pleats at the front with a more sleek shape at the back. The jacket is classic Chanel with the two low set signature pockets at the front, each highlight with a floral shaped button. These buttons that sit there, down the front and at each cuff are very special in themselves. Each is hand made and constructed by hand wrapping the wire to form the camellias that you see. The matching top is equally as beautiful with an intricate pleated front, French cuffs button with those same wonderful buttons and the silk it is made out of exactly matches the inner silk lining of the jacket. Everything about it is special to the last detail. The suit is in excellent condition and the top has some issues so please review the full condition notes below

Both the skirt and jacket are fully lined in a hand set green silk. The jacket closes with hand woven brass wire flower buttons and the skirt closes with a zipper. Both the jacket and skirt have vertical quilting seams. The jacket has a brass chain at its inner hem. The top closes at the front with hidden set buttons and is entirely hand made. Each cuff on the top has french set buttons that match the jacket. There is very minor discoloration at the inner seam under one arm of the jacket. The top shows more noticeable damage under each arm and I see some small storage spots here and there as well. The set is priced based on the jacket and skirt only. The top is being included for free so that the set is historically accurate. It could be worn if the jacket was kept on and the fabric is sound and odor free. The entire set was specialty cleaned (as is everything of course). Each piece is numbered under the Couture label in sequence 53422, 53423, 53424

Jacket
Sleeves: 22"
Shoulders: 13.5"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23" from neck to hem

Shirt
Sleeves: 24"
Shoulders: 13"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 25" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 28" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD2928

Reference Photo: Chanel F/W 1976-77 Suit, The MET Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The first ready-to-wear Chanel collection launched in 1978 and I believe this to be from those first few years. It has all of the hallmarks of the Chanel suit - the chain at the inner hem, the vertically stitched inner silk lining used during this time period and fine workmanship. It is made out of that proprietary Chanel boucle that gives the fabric structure and stability along the weft in one direction and yet gives it an almost bias cut effect along the other direction. This also is what contributes to the fit that Chanel suits have and how comfortable they feel once on. The fabric has movement and yet retains its shape at the same time. The skirt is just above the knee with a straight , slim cut. The jacket is a classic cropped Chanel jacket with two pockets at the front. Each is highlighted with a looped fringe finish. The jacket buttons at the front with classic double C logo buttons in gold and black. That same looped ended fringe highlights the neckline. Excellent condition with two very minor motes to review below.

Both pieces are lined in a red tissue silk that is stitched in long vertical panels in the jacket. The lining is entirely set and finished by hand. The skirt closes with a painted metal zipper and a flat hook and eye at the waist. There is an extender at the waist but it does not appear that the skirt was altered other wise in anyway do this may be original. The jacket buttons to close down the front. There is a small spot in the boucle that looks like it had a brooch perhaps and has widened the weft slightly. Please review the photos. The signature gold chain runs along the inner edge of the lining. Hand finished. Tagged a vintage 40

Jacket
Sleeves: 23"
Shoulders: 17"
Bust: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 21" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 20" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD2915

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

For Resort 2009, Karl Lagerfeld had the models seem to walk on water as they worked their way over a curving runway built over the pool at the Raleigh Hotel in South Beach, Miami. Laird Borrelli-Persson reviewed the collection for Vogue and said of it: "The clothes themselves, though, nodded to an entirely different era. The 74-look collection mixed rock 'n' roll with seventies swing and high glamour, all rendered with Lagerfeld's forward-minded attitude. Models with Brian Jones-inspired hair looked as smart in smokings as they did in seventies-style full-legged light-wash jeans, tie-dyed logo tees, and haute hippie headbands. These are sure to be in high demand among the easy-living types who make the rounds of tony beachside resorts, but it wasn't all just sun and fun. A series of elaborately beaded dresses with clear or smoky plastic insets were examples of pure urban sophistication, just as the few goddess dresses were exemplars of restraint. ..."This kind of production speaks to the importance of the [Resort] market and signals how commercially viable it is," said Saks' Ron Frasch. Perhaps only Lagerfeld, though, can make the whole enterprise seem like so much fun."

The dress was Look 48 on the runway and I have also included a reference photo of Selma Blair so you can see just how spectacular the fit of this dress is once on. This is Karl at his best and has a level of fantasy to it that gives it the feel of Haute Couture. The lace that covers the dress is spectular and I love that is has been layered over two semi-transparent layers of black and an inner nude - this gives the lace more depth and allows the pattern to really show despite its dark color. Vertical sections of lace are places between horizontal bands that are placed to shape and mold the body underneath. The shoulder and neckline has a padding under the lace and this gives them an almost warrior feel. I love the ay it frames the neck and face. The same padding treatment is used at the hem and it only heightens the hourglass effect that the rest of the dress has. This is the kind of Chanel that dreams are made of. Excellent condition.

Fully lined in a semi-transparent black and closes at the back with a hidden set zipper. Immaculate construction. It appears to have never been worn. Tagged a Chanel 38.

Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 17" from natural neck to waist
Skirt: 25.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD2872

Reference Photos: Resort 2009 Chanel, Look 48. Model: Bobbi Wiens.  /  Selma Blair at the Dark Glamour Book Signing Event, September 16 2008.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

On the 2008 Resort runway for Chanel this was shown in a longer, graphic black and white, but was produced in this shorter all-black version. Diane Kruger later wore the twin of the version I have here to the Chanel Haute Couture collection, giving us a fabulous reference of how amazing this looks on a real girl. It is made from a stretch bandage fabric in black with different finishes used for each part of the dress. The bodice is made from strips of the fabric woven into a basket weave pattern. Straps button into place so you can change how they sit if you wish. Through the waist the pattern is set vertically and the knit has just a touch of transparency to it for a hint of sexiness. The skirt swings out from this beautifully fitted shape in a a "faux" pleat - the lines that give the illusion of pleats are actually worked directly into the knit. It's fabulous and absolutely gorgeous on.

Nicole Phelps of Vogue said of this collection in her review: "The spectacle Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel staged on Friday night at a Los Angeles airfield was so audacious, so over-the-top, it elicited a standing ovation before the first model hit the people mover. The designer, who took over Grand Central station in New York last May and commandeered a fleet of buses in Paris the year before that, chose a Santa Monica plane hangar for this year's resort extravaganza...."Airports and flying have become a nightmare," Lagerfeld had said backstage a few minutes earlier. "L.A. is about the dream of private jets and beautiful cars and glamour. Cruise collections are about the dream of freedom." 

Unlined and tagged a Chanel 36. It still has the plastic that held the hang tag through the label and has never been worn. The fabric is meant to stretch and hug the body.

Bust: 13.5-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 10-14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 45.5" from natural neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD2871

Reference Photos: Resort 2008 Chanel, Look 10. Model: Irina Lazareanu.  /  Diane Kruger attending the Chanel Haute Couture Show in Paris, January 22, 2008.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The 2006 Chanel collection by Karl Lagerfeld was well received. Sarah Mower of Vogue said this in her review:

"Karl Lagerfeld's ability to stretch the template of Chanel this way and that according to the moment never ceases. This season, the block-heeled sixties spectator boot he first showed for couture gave him the starting point to design upward into a young and leggy look...Though it was mainly black, with touches of white, cream, and dull pink, Lagerfeld's collection didn't come off as one of the season's solemn pronouncements on sobriety and restraint. Instead, he worked texture, sparkle, and girlishness into surfaces and styling: He used satin ribbons and bows for hair bands and bodices, raw edgings on hems, and gemstones and crystals set in big brooches or as bejeweled necklines set into evening dresses....For evening, Lagerfeld checked off more points of the season, from exaggerated puff-sleeves to sixties Edie-ish baby dolls and various renderings of chiffon dresses layered over trousers. Cute and young was the general impression, but—no surprise—Lagerfeld also ensured that classic Chanel's all-encompassing sweep remained firmly in the mind's eye."

Here we have Look 9 from the runway and this dress illustrates Karl's meticulous tailoring skills. It is made from a light black silk stretch silk and cut with immaculate seaming so that it fits every curve. On the runway it was belted and worn with a high boot. It is that little black dress that every girl needs in her closet and its simple and classic lines transcend season and era to make it a forever piece. The simplicity will allow you to wear it in a multitude of styling possibilities. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a black stretch silk and closes with a hidden set back zipper. Tagged a 36. The fabric has some stretch

Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17.5-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 36" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD2851

Reference Photo: Chanel F/W 2006 Runway, Look 9. (Model: Daria Werbowy)

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This beautiful silk blouse was produced and made by hand by the Chanel atelier. It is a true, numbered Haute Couture. Haute Couture is the very pinnacle of the fashion experience and I would hazard to say that vintage versions are even a little more special then modern ones. This piece comes direct from the daughter of the original Haute Couture client so has not been on the market prior to this.

The top is amazing and has a beautiful and classic cut and silhouette that is and will remain timeless. It is entirely done by hand and the silk is of the highest possible grade. It feels stupendous on. The top is loose fitting and the sleeves slightly voluminous above their deep French cuffs. I love the play on the tuxedo shirt through the panels of fabric that run down the front and hide the off-set buttons and snaps that close it down one side. It is truly a brilliant piece that when you see it in person you will be astounded at the level of craftsmanship and care put into the construction. A masterpiece. In excellent overall condition.

Unlined with all interior seams hand finished. It closes with hand set, hidden buttons at the front side and a series of silk covered snaps. French cuffs, however they do not have the buttons - it did come with one french cuff link but they are not marked Chanel so I cannot be sure if it is original - I will send with it regardless . My client recalls her mother wearing these with jeweled cuffs and we suspect she ordered it without buttons since she wore her own jeweled version. Entirely hand done as one would expect from Haute Couture. I see a very very slight color change here and there but only if inspected in certain light - at first I thought this was a play of the light and fabric. I have priced it accordingly but do not think this impacts it all when worn.

Sleeves: 23.5"
Shoulders: 13"
Bust: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 26.5" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# S727

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.