Vogue's review of this collection was done by Hamish Bowles who said in part; "With their ironed hair, pale lips, and exaggerated doe-eye makeup, the leggy girls on Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel runway were channeling Penelope Tree, the iconic and kooky sixties model. With a major Chanel retrospective opening in May at the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute, Lagerfeld also delved into Coco Chanel's history—specifically a 1920's liaison with the Duke of Westminster that saw her borrowing knits and tweedy pieces from his chic country wardrobe. Lagerfeld feminized his layered cardigan and plus fours with scarves twinkling with diamond camellias and topped them with adorable newsboy caps, knit cloches, or floppy berets." I love the nod to the tweed that the pieces had and the kicky skirts like this one are perfect to pair with a great boot. 

The suit is constructed from an absolutely stunning metallic tweed version of the Chanel signature fabric. The fabric combines a silk thread with mohair and a gold metal thread that he has worked through the entire suit. This gives it an exceptional but subtle sheen and a very luxurious feel. It is absolutely beautiful. To heighten that sense of luxury Karl added a rabbit fur trim to the jacket. The fur has been set to run down the front edges, curve around the back and then also circle the hem. It also details each cuff and the pockets. The jacket is cut in that classic Chanel box shape. The sleeves are long and I love the pockets that sit on each side. It hooks to close down the front with hidden set hook & eye so there is nothing to break the line. The skirt is cut with a slight flare as it nears the hem. It is set all the way around with series of wide flat pleats, giving that nod to the schoolgirl and the sixties the show was based on. The upper part of the skirt is more fitted around the hips and then it opens up to create the beautiful lines that you see. The entire suit is lined in the highest quality camellia flower embossed black silk. This is classic Chanel right down to the chain stitched by hand into the hem of the jacket. It is exceptional. Excellent condition.

Both pieces are fully lined in a black silk embossed with the Chanel camellia flower print. The interior hem of the jacket is finished with one of their signature metal chains. The skirt closes with a hidden set zipper. The jacket hooks to close down the front. Pockets on the jacket and the skirt. The colour and texture are even better in person. Both pieces are tagged a Chanel 40. There is the slightest bit of pilling to the silk on the interior of the jacket from rubbing against the skirt when it was stored. 

And just a note on their fabrics.... The Chanel boucle and tweeds are created with their proprietary method of weaving that they themselves describe as "by weaving the warp and weft, using a variety of different kinds of threads which creates a unique and somewhat irregular appearance. The warp – vertically strung – is the background of the fabric, the base that will support the assembly of materials. There can be up to 12 different threads used for a single warp. The weft – woven horizontally – gives the fabric its unique character and can have an unlimited number of threads. Tight, perforated, textured, thick, with a relief, plaited, random, twill… the potential number of effects is endless". This technique gives you that classic Chanel look.

Jacket
Sleeve: 25"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 20" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 22" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3854

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I have a small collection of historically important, key designer labelled vintage furs and fur trimmed pieces stored away in my archives that I will be slowly posting on the site over the next couple of years until I have none left. I will no longer be buying furs for the shop moving forward and have not purchased anything for several years now. I feel like times have changed and while there still is a place for vintage furs for some, including collectors and historians, many modern girls are choosing other options. Many of the pieces in my collection are representative of the designer during a set time period in history that was different then our modern outlook. I have decided that the best course to handle this controversial issue is to let the pieces I have go rather then sit in a cold storage unit. Fur coats are final sale.

This Chanel hat is from the Fall of 1996 and it is gorgeous. I found a editorial shot of Stella Tenant wearing a version of it that was shot by Karl himself. The hat is so dramatic and easy to wear. It is meant to sit lightly on the top of the head and then you can play with which direction you want the feathers to face. It can be worn with the feathers towards the front, either side, or to the back and sit as high or low as you want. This gives it so much versatility in styling it and the feel of it completely changes depends on how you place it on your head. It has its original attached comb in place. The feathers are full and glossy. It is stunning. Excellent condition

Secures to the head with a comb. The base is a black felt wool. Because of the half hat / cap design is should fit any size head. Each side of the triangle shape measures about 8" long.

Item# A339

Reference Photo: Stella Tennant by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel Fall 1996.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This dress is one of the piece that were all sourced from one of my clients whose mother purchased the majority of her Couture pieces between 1973 to the mid and late seventies. This one is from Spring 1976 and we were able to find a similar dress to it that was photoed for L'Officiel that year. This one has its top buttons hidden set instead of showing and I think that it makes it even more refined feeling this way. It is an incredibly beautiful example of the work that the Chanel ateliers were doing during this time period. True Haute Couture pieces by Chanel are an extraordinary find as they are so very rare and hard to come by. 

While this one photoed well I think when the person that buys it sees it on person they will be blown away. It is even better in person and the richness and quality of the silk only really can be appreciated when you have it in hand. The dress has been made entirely by hand and the silk is of the highest possible grade. It feels stupendous on. The top is cut ot skim over you and the long sleeves are slightly voluminous above their stunning cuffs. A tie extends out form the neck and as mentioned above the buttons are all hidden set under the seam so the line is not broken down the front. The skirt falls from the waist where the pleats open up so that when you move it lightly moves and floats around you. The dress is a masterclass in pleat work and an example of how finely done a pleat can be. Each pleat is exactly the same size as its neighbor and each lies perfectly as it runs over the dress from shoulder to hem. Every pleat on the dress has been top stitched along its entire edge by hand. The shape of the waist is created by a series of tiny stitched that gently bring the waist in while still holding the vertical line of the pleats. Each cuff is created by doing small pleats at the end of the sleeve and then bringing them in and stitching them down. And the loop for the buttons is on one long strip of silk with opening for the buttons to slide through. Just amazing. It is truly brilliant. Excellent overall condition with minor notes below.

Fully lined through the body in an ivory silk with all interior seams hand finished. It closes with hand made buttons down the front and at each cuff. Finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely done by hand. Haute Couture number 54218. I see a small mark near the seam under the arm, a very faint mark near the hem and a faint mark on the upper back. Please see the photos after the label shot. Note that in person the colour is a rich feeling ivory and better then how it photoed.

Sleeves: 25"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.75" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 45" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3732

Reference Photo: Model in Chanel, L'Officiel Magazine, 1976.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Without a doubt this is truly an exceptional piece of vintage Chanel and a rare find. It is a wonderful example of the work that the house of Chanel was creating during this time period. This would have been from right before Karl joined Chanel in an official capacity in 1982, however, in the couple of years proceeding his appointment as Creative Director, Karl was doing freelance work with them so you can still see his influence. The first Chanel Ready-to-Wear collection debuted in 1978 and many of the early pieces like this one were made to order. The main difference being that the pieces were sent pre-sized for the client to the boutique and then the final fitting was done in the boutique rather then at the Chanel atelier. I was pleased to have found a runway shot that dates the set exactly and this suit has the added historical provenance of being the actual suit that was worn on the red carpet by actress Sarah Catharine Paulson.

The suit in person makes such an impact. Far more then it does in the photos. The camera doesn't quite catch the vibrancy of the silk lame fabric or the texture of the chenille that details it. Both the jacket and the skirt are made from a rich red metallic silk lame. Onto that there is a black tufted chenille cord has been hand applied into a squiggle pattern. There is padding between the red lame and the inner lining and this gives it a quilted 'puffed' feel. The texture that this creates is incredible. The actual cut of the set is minimal and this simplicity really allows the fabric to take center stage. The jacket is done with that classic Chanel box cut. The sleeves are long and straight cut. There are three hook & eye at the very top of the neck to hold it closed and then it is open under that to the hem. The edges of the jacket have been finished with a band of the chenille cording to highlight the cut. There are no other embellishments and this simplicity lets it sit perfectly in place once on the body. It is cut to sit just past the waist line of the skirt and you can see how wonderfully it sits in the photos of Sarah. The skirt skims over the hips and then gently widens out as it nears the hem. The top of the waist is detailed with bands of the chenille and there are pockets hidden along the seams of each hip. The fabric is lighter then it looks so the set is very comfortable to wear. It has enough weight to it that both pieces hold their shape perfectly and it has a very sculpted formal feel to it once on. I love that you can wear the two pieces together or break it up and mix them with things from your current closet. It give its a lot of styling options and versatility. The jacket has the Chanel boutique label present and inside the skirt is a hand written / numbered label. It is made to demi-couture standards and almost entirely by hand. The numbered tape suggests that it would have been a custom ordered piece. Excellent condition

Full lined in a fine black tissue silk. Hand finished throughout. The jacket has three hook and eye near the top of the neck and the skirt closes with back hand set zipper. Hook and eye closure at the waist band above the zipper. Light padding in the shoulders of the jacket and pockets along the sides of the skirt.

Jacket
Sleeves: 22.5"
Shoulders: 16"
Bust: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 20" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 23.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 43" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3728

Photo credits: (1) F/W 1981 Chanel Runway Collection.  /  (2-3) Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon.   /  (4-6) Sarah Catharine Paulson in our Chanel suit attends the Costume Designer Guild Awards 2019, Styling by Karla Welch

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

True Haute Couture pieces by Chanel are an extraordinary find as they are so very rare and hard to come by. This one, like several other of the Haute Couture pieces in the shop at the moment, are from one of my clients whose mother purchased the majority of her Couture pieces between 1973 to the mid and late seventies. This particular set has the added provenance of having its twin photoed on actress Sylvia Kristel. We also found the original presentation photo from the couture collection that year and it shows you just how gorgeous this set will sit on the body once on. It is an incredibly beautiful example of the work that the Chanel ateliers were doing during this time period. 

The set is two pieces. A silk jersey dress that has incredible lines and then a matching silk jersey cardigan that is hand beaded. The dress is made out of two distinct layers. There is a complete inner dress made out of a silk crepe that is cut to skim over you and act as an inner lining. Attached to sit over that is a silk jersey exterior layer. The jersey is all cut on the bias and it is incredibly flattering. The neckline sweeps across the collar bones and sits wide at the front. A thin and open keyhole runs down the center of the bodice from just under the top of the neck to just above the waist. The waist itself is gathered into this elaborate circle that is entirely and meticulously made from hand set pleats. This creates a pretty and soft effect at the front. All around that circle is a series of soft pleats that span outwards. The back is cut onto a deep V for a little bit of skin to show. The skirt falls in a draped column and there is no seam at the waist so the line remains long and beautiful. Over this is a soft cardigan made from the same silk jersey on the exterior. Inside it has been hand lined in a matching red silk chiffon. All of the edges of the cardigan have been covered with beautiful beaded flowers and a border that is made from red and black glass tube beads. These would have been applied and created by hand by Lesage to the exact specifications given by Chanel. The bead work gives the design a slightly raised effect and they have a subtle glimmer in the light. I love this contrast between the bareness of the dress underneath with the coverage of the cardigan. It gives you two completely different looks to work with and wearing it with the jacket completely transforms the look and feel of the dress. It goes from a more bare and sexy dancing dress to something that feels more formal but still with that sense of ease created by the silk jersey. Both pieces are entirely made by hand as Haute Couture dictates and the fabric would have been made specifically for Chanel and this piece. This is a fine and rare example from this time period. It is truly brilliant and when you see it in person you will be astounded at the level of craftsmanship and care put into the construction. In excellent overall condition with notes below.

The dress has an inner attached silk dress and there is a wide grosgrain band that hooks to close at the interior of the waist, The inner dress zips to close under that and the outer dress buttons into place with a series of hand covered silk buttons in a matching fabric. The jacket is fully lined in a red silk chiffon and hooks to close down the front. Both pieces have been completely hand made. The label was removed at some point. There is a are some small marks that I have photoed. They may come out with a more aggressive or specialty cleaning. Please see the photos starting after the shot of the way it closes at the back.

The color in person is more a deep raspberry/ soft burgundy with a bit more of a red pink tome then how it photoed. The waist measurement is taken of the inner grosgrain band. You should be able to add to it if you needed more room and get another inch or two to work with. It is all hidden under the exterior dress so would be a very doable tweak.

Dress
Bust: approx 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner grosgrain at waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner lining hips: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 60" from top of shoulder to hem

Cardigan
Sleeves: 23"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 25" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3730

Reference Photos: (1) SS 1976 Chanel collection in Paris, January 23 1976.  /  (2) Dutch actress and model Sylvia Kristel in Chanel, January 27 1976.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

True Haute Couture pieces by Chanel are an extraordinary find as they are so very rare and hard to come by. This one, like several other of the Haute Couture pieces in the shop at the moment, are from one of my clients whose mother purchased the majority of her Couture pieces between 1973 to the mid and late seventies. This particular suit has the added provenance of having its twin photoed for L'Officiel. It is an incredibly beautiful example of the work that the Chanel ateliers were doing during this time period.

The suit is constructed from an absolutely stunning deep blue and white silk that is like a heavier in weight version of one of their silk scarves. It is beautiful and it is easy to see why it is such a well documented piece. The jacket is a simple box cut that has more softness to it then versions of the suit that you would see made from their heavier boucle. It buttons down the front and I love the added embellishment of a golden lions head that sits on the top of each button. These same buttons also adorn each of the two low set front pockets that are both fully functional and beautifully done. The sleeves are slightly cropped and each end in a white silk cuff. The collar is notched and it is also finished in a white silk. What is remarkable about the collar is that you can actually remove the white silk portion and the collar underneath is the same blue and white silk as the rest of the jacket. This simple change gives the suit an entirely different feel and makes it that much more versatile. I love the hand painted feeling of the dots that cover the silk and how the white of them pops so beautifully against the blue. Inside, the jacket it is meticulously hand lined in a white silk. Circling around the hem is the famous signature Chanel gold chain that adds a subtle even weight all the way around and helps to keep the lines of the jacket perfectly in place. The skirt is cut with a slight flare is it nears the hem and has a series of flat knife pleats on both sides. The waist line is finished to lie flat against the body and the pleats don't open up until after the hip. Once they do open you you get a soft flare to the bottom of the skirt. This is classic Chanel right down to the chain that is stitched by hand into the hem of the jacket. It is exceptional. Excellent condition with a very small note below.

Both pieces are fully lined in a hand set, fine white silk. The interior hem of the jacket is finished with their signature gold metal chain. The skirt closes with a series of snaps along with a hook & eye at the waist. The jacket buttons down the front. Both piece are hand finished to couture standards. Proper couture labels present. Sourced from the original couture client. There is one white dot on the jacket that has a touch of darkening to it. Please see the photo after the label shots. Minor grubbiness to cuffs and collar from natural wear and aging.

Jacket
Sleeve: 20.5"
Shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 22.5" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 26" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3727

Reference Photo: S/S 1977 Chanel Haute Couture, L'Officiel

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The twin of this jumpsuit walked the runway for the Resort 2007 collection. It was Look 5 on the runway and was styled with a very casual vibe to it. The show took place in the Grand Central Terminal in New York and stars like Mischa Barton, Naomi Watts, Julianne Moore, and Maria Bello all sat in the audience. Karl said of the show that season; 'Cruise is all about travelling, so the symbol of the station is a good idea... and I love the space, I always have. I think it is one of the most beautiful spaces in New York.' Its a stunning example of Karl's view on how to do casual while still feeling elevated. And adding a heel instantly makes it more of a evening look. The look is also one of the few showcased on the book 'Chanel: Catwalk' for this season's presentation.

The jumpsuit is made out of a textured cotton that is just a shade or two off of a true stark white. It is cut to skim over the body and feel easy to wear. It is loose and easy through the waist and then the pants skim down from there. Each leg is shaped into the perfect boot cut with just a hint of a flare by the time they reach the hem. Depending on how tall you are they will sit slightly cropped. Top set pockets sit low slung on each hip and two more pockets are set at the back. Each of those are detailed with a silver stud engraved with 'Chanel Paris' spelled out. I love the built in waistband with its chic belt loops and crossed over X at the back. It is like a design detail all on its own and makes wearing a belt optional. The front laces up with three thick white nautical feeling cords down the front. Behind those is a modesty panel that is attached one side and buttons into place on the other. This covers the space between the laces so that you get a hint of sexy but are perfectly OK to move around without exposing anything. I folded that panel back on one shot so you could see how bare a look you could get to you decided to have it made to be removable. The cut of this is perfection and the fabric is exquisite. Inside, the back of the modesty panel, around the neck and around the waist is a finish of silk that is embossed with the famous double C Chanel logo. On the runway the jumpsuit was shown with one of the Chanel belts of the season and you could easily wear it with any belt of your choosing or simply wear it as is and unbelted. Without a belt the line of the eye does not get broken and it has a longer silhouette. It is so versatile and chic. It can be worn with flats for lunch or heels for evening. Excellent condition 

Partially lined as described above and the rest of the jumpsuit is unlined. It laces at the front and there is a hidden set zipper under that. Tagged a Chanel 40 and looks to have been worn very little. 

Slightly inset shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: to 20 " flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 16.5  " flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 59" from neck to hem of pants 
Inseam: 31" from hem up

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3616

Reference Photo: (1) 2007 Cruise Chanel Runway Collection, Look 5.  /  (2-3) From the book "Chanel: Catwalk" by Thames and Hudson.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is an exceptional piece of vintage Chanel and a rare find. This is a very early piece of Karl's work for Chanel. His first collection was in 1983 and  it is amazing to have a verified piece from just a few short years into his long career there. A version of the dress made of the same fabric walked the runway that season and we were able to find that reference photo. The hand written tag on the dress is also marked 1986 and there is a special order tag from Bergdorf's with the exact date and client name. It is a wonderful example of the work that Karl was doing for Chanel during this time period.

The dress is made from a of a metallic gold thread set on a black silk chiffon. The effect that this gives is that it is a gold lace. You only realize that it is made of that fine gold metal thread as you get closer to it. This fabric treatment also gives it a touch of a 3D feel. Under the top part of the dress is a inset bodice made out of black silk chiffon. This leaves the upper shoulders and arms covered in just a single layer of the chiffon and gold so you get a touch of transparency there. The cut of the dress has been kept fairly simple so that the fabric can take center stage. The neckline is set slightly wide and the edges of it follow the lace pattern. The sleeves are long and the bodice is cut to skim over the buts and waist. This  then flares out to the hem of the skirt. The front is cut to a more cocktail length and this curves down into a longer back skirt that is a true maxi length by the time it reaches the longest point of the back hem. This high low cut is tremendously fabulous and it lets the dress have more range. You are able to wear it to both a less formal cocktail affair, yet it will still work for a formal event as well. It has the Chanel boutique label with a hand written label below that with the date and other information. It is beautifully made. Excellent condition

Full lined in a fine black silk chiffon with an inner chiffon bodice suspended by tiny straps and in inner silk skirt. Hand finishes. The inner bodice has its own zipper to close it and then the outer layer closes with a series of buttons and loops down the back.Buttons and loop at each cuff. Cut slightly on the bias so may come up a touch in length when on depending on your frame

Sleeves: approx 23"
Shoulders: no true defined seam
Inner bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: to 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 49" from top of shoulder to front hem, 60" to back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3345

Reference Photo: Ines de la Fressange models for Chanel 1986-1987 Fall-Winter collection. Photo by Pierre Vauthey.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.