Andre Courreges made these amazing little faux leather coats out of a coated vinyl starting around 1963 and into the early 1970s. The vinyl give it a more sporty look and was also considered to be a cutting edge fabric during this time period. It also features his logo prominently on the front which was also rather daring for this era. He was one the first designers to do this.

This can be worn as either a coat or a dress with something underneath. It is belted for definition through the waist and the big pockets at the front act as both a design feature and give it a sense of utility. His signature coated snaps do up the front and at the back there is a row hidden under the vent that allows you to close it for a more dress feel or leave them open so that the bottom skirting has more volume and functions more like a coat. It is cut to skim over the body and be more fitted through the top. Courreges himself once commented on the perfect fit saying that is “was somewhere between a youthful and optimistic inventiveness, and a concept of fashion embracing the platonic ideal of perfect form. What was needed was to apply new technical and aesthetic rules and to create a modern style that was easy to wear”.  This is one of the much rarer originals in one of the best and most coveted of the colors - the brilliant orange. Excellent overall condition with notes to review below

The jacket snaps to close at the front and it has its original belt that also snaps into place. More snaps close the back vent and each cuff. The pockets zipper as seen. Inside, the lining can be fully removed and snaps into place. It is tagged a Courreges size 0. There are a few tiny nicks out of the vinyl exterior and the slightest, tiniest bit of wear near the logo. Minor wear to the paint on a couple of the snaps and a touch of grubbiness to one pocket flap. Inside the lining has some small missing areas. The exterior flaws are normal wear and patina for this fabric and it presents as excellent. The interior issues are minor and the fabric is strong and stable.

Sleeves: 22"
Shoulders: 14 3/4"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16" from neck to waist
Skirt: 29" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# C539

Reference Photos: (1) Model in Courreges, L'Officiel c.1970s.  /  (2) 1963-69 Courreges Coat from The Met Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Jacques Tiffeau was one of the vanguard designers whose clothes were designed with a young, more affluent and fashion-conscious costumer in mind. He was a trained tailor who turned down a job at the Dior ateliers and instead launched his own ready-to-wear label, Tiffeau-Busch,  in 1958 in partnership with Beverly Pruzan Busch where pieces were also produced, like this one, that only bore his name. Plaid became a bit of a signature for him and Lauren Hutton wore a similar cut coat to this one in 1967 for Vogue.

This set has two pieces, the coat and its original skirt in a matching fabric. The skirt is tinier through the waist but the coat is cut with a more generous size. This means a girl who fits the coat can buy it to wear on its own and just have the skirt as a bonus piece. Both pieces are made out of a textured fabric that feel like perhaps a wool silk mix. This style was called the Cardigan coat by Vogue dues to its easy cut and collarless design. It sits more sleek and flat at the front and then the back has a yoke under the shoulders and the fabric then is gathered into that and falls with more volume at the back. Big glossy brown buttons close it at the front and the sleeves are finished with a flat piping that matches the treatment at the neck. The skirt is cut slim and to just above the knee. Excellent condition

The coat buttons to close down the front with additional silk covered snaps. The skirt zips to close with a painted metal zipper. Both pieces are lined in an ivory silk. Proper buttonholes. They look to have been worn very little if at all. The skirt is an XS due to the waist but the coat should fit a bit wider range. It is priced based on the coat alone.

Coat
Sleeves: 20"
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist:-hips: open
Length: 38" from neck to hem

Skirt:
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 22" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# C538

Reference Photo: Lauren Hutton in Jacques Tiffeau by Irving Penn, Vogue, February 1967.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This stunning and rare gown was designed by Bob Mackie. Mackie shot for fame with the work he did dressing Cher. The best of his work is dramatic and opulent and he was a master at print and color. He worked for both Edith Head and Jean Louis, where he drew Marilyn Monroe's famous 'Happy Birthday, Mr. President' dress, prior to working as a costume designer and co-designing with Ray Aghayan. That led to his incredible journey in designing for stars like Cher and Diana Ross for many years. In many ways it was his work and his creations that really defined their careers and helped to shape that entire idea of high glamour.

This is an extremely gorgeous Bob Mackie dress done in a vivid floral silk chiffon. The bodice is fully formed and molded inside and the silk is then draped and shaped over that inner support. It is set so that is created a large cross over at the front which highlights the shape of the bust and emphasizes the high peak of the front bust line. The skirt flows out from under there with panels of silk chiffon that float around you and cascade to the floor. There are literally yards and yards of fabric through that skirt and when you move it is just incredible. It is cut to cure up at the front and under the top print layer are two more layers of a solid coral silk chiffon. All the silk is cut on the bias so it has incredible movement. The dress comes with its original matching cape piece. This buttons at the neck and is cut to mimic the curve of the skirt. The color is a bright tropical feeling print and it is truly one of the best dresses of his that I have seen. Very high end and very dramatic. Excellent condition with one small note below

The bodice of the dress is fully lined in a red silk. The skirt has two inner layers of coral silk that follow the line of the outer layer. The bodice is shaped and and fully boned inside and has an inner waist stay that hooks to close. It then closes with a back painted metal zipper. Hand finished throughout and hand rolled edges. There are some small repairs to the edge of the hem of the cape

Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 12" from top of the high peaked bodice to bottom of inner waist
Skirt: 45" from waist to longest part of hem
Cape: approx 60"

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3384

Reference Photos: Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The Andre Laug label launched in 1968 in Rome. Laug was one of the grand Italian Couturiers who would now be considered to have designed "Alta Moda" the Italian equivalent of Haute Couture. He apprenticed under Nina Ricci and was the designer behind the first "Mademoiselle Ricci" collection in the summer of 1961. From there he freelanced, working for both Philip Venet and Andre Courreges. His clients included Audrey Hepburn, Jacqueline Kennedy, Diana Ross and countless others.This dress is numbered with one of his couture tags and dates from the late 1970s to the early 1980s.

Here we really see the attention to cut and details that his atelier was known for. Woman loved his clothes for their rich fabrics and attention to tailoring, but always with a refined and reserved beauty. This dress is a stunning example of that aesthetic while still taking into account the impact of using neon brights and sports related looks that was heavily influencing fashion during this time period. The entire dress is hand covered in a sequins. The sleeveless bodice uses clear sequins that allow the soft dove grey of the silk used for the bodice to show through. On the skirt the sequins are finished in an almost neon orange backed by a matching orange silk bodice. The waist is set low and dropped. This is then further detailed by a heavy embellishment of beads and more sequins, this time set on their sides so they have a more 3D feel to them. The neckline is scooped at the front with a wide silk border finished in a slightly different shade of grey. The waist has just a suggestion of shape and the skirt falls to the floor from there. The color in the skirt especially is exceptional - it is far brighter and crisper then how it photoed and really phenomenal in person. Excellent condition.

Fully lined with a hand set fine white silk chiffon. It closes with a back painted metal zipper.  Hand finished interior seams throughout to couture standards. Beautifully constructed. Couture numbered tag present.

Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Low drop Seam at the band: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural hips: to 25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 20" from top of shoulder to top seam of low waist band that is 1.5" wide
Skirt: 42" from top of low set waist band to hem with 2.5" turned up

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3373

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The Swash Buckler top is from the Fall 2017 Rosie Assoulin collection. On the runway this same print was shown on the finale gown. These tops were a hallmark of the collection and their high drama is an easy way for a modern girl to step out in the evening and be able to pair it with pants or a skirt and still get a high glamour feel. The top is an amazing feat of proportion and cutting. The front has a v-neckline with loose ties at the neck. This tops a curved yoke and then the body of the top flares out under that. The fit through the body is relaxed and the sleeves are cut into fantastical bubble sleeves. They are set low on the sides and then pouf out and are cut on a curve so that they follow the arm and maintain the same pouf from the shoulder to the cuff. The cuffs are cut extra long and slit so that you can wear then unfolded and over the hand or flip them up. The back has a ton of volume and the choice of the fabric keeps it light and airy in feel. I love it. Excellent condition

It is constructed from a double layer of the organza. It slips on to wear with ties at the neck. Each cuff has two silk covered buttons and loops to close. Tagged a modern brand size S but the cut is very generous so it should fit a variety of sizes.

Sleeves: 27" from shoulder to longest point of cuffs
Shoulders: approx 16"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist-hips: open
Length: 28" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG

Item# S898

Reference Photo: Rosie Assoulin Fall 2017 Collection, Look 41.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I have had a version of this dress before that was a bit more elaborate then this one but I actually this simplified one with its sleek lines that allow the print it really stand out. This is a fabulous 1970s Mollie Parnis dress and I think that it is very hard not to love such a strong statement piece. That bold print gives it such drama and yet, it still has a soft and sexy element to it. The chiffon that it is constructed from has been custom screened with a fantastic bold plaid design. The pattern is a combination of deep corals and reds with pops of different colored stripes running through including a bright green and a royal blue. The  bodice has a plunge front and this same deep V is done at the back as well. Under this the waist is defined by a wide band of gathered fabric. From there the skirt flows to the ground from pleats that circle all the way around the waist. The then softly open so that the skirt has a touch of volume. This also gives the skirt lots of movement when you move. The contrast between the colors and the refined cut is fabulous. Excellent condition.

Fully lined in a deep raspberry silk crepe and closes at the back with a painted metal zipper.

Bust: 17-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 11.5" from top of bodice to top of waist band
Waist band: 4"
Skirt: 41" from bottom of waist band to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3360

Reference Photo: Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is an incredible dress and jacket set that would be from when Marc Bohan was head of the Dior atelier. It is a beautiful and early example of the work being produced by Christian Dior in this time period. This is the Christian Dior - New York label and is considered to be demi-couture from this time period of Dior's history. These where made for the American market based on the runway designs and with many of the same high standard finishes that Haute Couture pieces incorporated.

This set is just spectacular. It has a simple, refined cut that is made glamorous by the wonderful fabric choice. The fabric is a beautiful wool silk that has a touch of weight to it so that the lines are perfectly held. It has a cream base with squares running over its surface. Each is a peach outline that then has a gold and peach medallion in its centers. In person the peach is brighter and better. The metallic gold lame thread is slight raised up from the fabric so it gives a touch of dimension besides the shine. These cover every square inch of the fabric. It is made of two pieces. The inner dress is a simple sheath that is cut so that is skims over the body and slightly flares out as it reaches the hem. It is sleeveless and the neckline is a simple scoop. It comes with a gold metal and rhinestone chain belt that slips through the loops that run around the low waist and then the belt hooks. The belt is real metal and has crystal detailing set along every 4 inches. I love how it ends in a gold tassel that dangels down under where it hooks. Over this is a little matching jacket that is sheer perfection in cut. It has a neat little collar and box cut. There are no closures and it is the perfect finish once it is popped over the dress. What I love about it is that when the dress is worn on its own it has that touch of a mod feel that the sixties were all about but once the jacket is on it has a very refined feel. Excellent condition with a small note below

Both pieces are lined in a heavy cream silk crepe with an additional silk chiffon interlining through the dress. The dress closes with a had set, hidden zipper at the back. The jacket slips on with no front closures. The belt hooks to close. There is a slight grubbiness to the lining of the inside back collar  of the jacket and one very minor nick out of the fabric on the jacket. Please see the photo after the label shot. . Otherwise the set appears to have been worn very little if at all. Hand finished and very well made to demi-couture standards.

Jacket
Sleeves: 22"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 19" from neck to hem

Dress
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 38" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3357

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is a gorgeous and early Bill Blass coat that has a very unusual design. Either side of the side panels are only sewn together once they reach the lower bust. This creates a wonderful movement to the panels when you move and also allows what you are wearing under it to peek though. It is made out of a gold metallic silk brocade that combines deep coppers and a startling coral. The collar is a neat and high and the shoulders are structured but un-padded. The sleeves are cropped and it closes with hidden set snaps on the bodice so that the line is not broken. Under that the panels of the coat fall on move fabulously around you as you walk. This Bill Blass coat is not 100% perfect but is a very wow piece whose flaws play no true reflection on how it looks once on. Presents as excellent but please rad the full condition notes below.

Fully lined in a coral silk and closes at the front with silk covered, hand set hidden snaps. There is fraying to the edge of the collar, marks on the lining inside the coat and repairs that have been done at some point to the side seams on both sides. Some grubbiness and  thinning to the fabric under the interior arms. The coat must have been stored folded for a long time as there are light creased marks here and there in the metallic fabric. I have been working on them after it came back from the cleaners and they will come out eventually after being hung for a time. Please review all photos after the label shot. The lining is more of a coral in person.

Sleeves: 21.5"
Shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 44" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# C529

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This Frank Usher dress is really wonderful. It is a full length maxi dress and the skirt falls to the floor with yards and yards of a bright orange based coral jersey for its fabric. The color is an instant showstopper and the fabric choice means that it drapes and moves fantastically. The skirt is cut on the bias and once it is on you get a better sense of just how much fabric has been used. The waist is set high and just under the bust. There are three long skinny ties made of the same fabric that loop through openings there. These allow you to cinch in the front and gather it a little more if you wish and then you can either leave the ties hanging on either side or tie them at the back. The top has two triangle halters that plunge to those front ties. They then curve up and extend into long straps that tie behind the neck. This leave the back completely bare. Excellent condition

The bodice is a double layer of the jersey and the skirt is unlined. It closes with a low back set zipper and also ties around the neck. Three ties runs through the front that can be adjusted for the perfect fit. The loose and easy cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes. The color is a touch more coral then how it photoed in person

Bust: variable since it has no true side seams and has stretch
Underbust: to approx 14-16.5" flat across from side to side
Natural waist & hips: open
Length: somewhat adjustable but approx 58-60" from neck to hem it will vary a little depending on how you tie it at the neck

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG

Item# DD3335

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Arnold Scaasi did exquisite work and as time passes I feel his designs are coming to be appreciated by a new audience. He apprenticed for Paquin before moving ot New York and working for Charles James. He launched a ready to wear label in 1956 but 1964 launched a couture salon and scaled back everything else to concentrate  on made-to-order. He cut and created his designs to extremely high standards and the workmanship is fabulous.

Yards and yards of a peach silk organza have been used in this Arnold Scassi gown. The silk used is just incredible. It is a light weight, fine organza and then onto this are hundreds of little cotton pique shapes that have been individually applied.  The fabric he has chosen give the dress both lightness and fullness. That combined with the inner structure through the sleeves and built in skirting allow it to hold that stunning shape and silhouette that you see without having to add any additional underpinnings of your own. The bodice is fitted and cut to follow and highlight the curves of you body to just above the hip where the skirt then explodes out in all of that volume. I actually love how he has extended the bodice down and to the top of the hips while still defining the waist with that pretty grosgrain and silk belt. It cinches in the waist while still exaggerates the curves of the female form and giving you shape despite all the volume in the sleeves and the skirt. The skirt is wonderfully dramatic and full with inner built in layers of silk and tulle to hold the volume. The inner construction of the skirt is amazing. The very inner skirt is made from a fine peach silk with a broad band of horsehair taping inside the bottom hem. Between that and the outer layer of silk are four full layers of silk net tulle. The sleeves are equally incredible and are shaped to have that gorgeous fullness to them and also have an inner finished of tulle netting to hold the shape. The inside is exquisitely constructed and it is all hand finished. This would make a stunning wedding dress for someone who is not looking for a white dress. Excellent condition with a couple of minor notes to review below

The bodice is fully interlined in a fine peach silk. The skirt is finished in silk and tulle as per the description above. The sleeves are finished with tulle. It closes with a hand set back metal zipper. The belt is a silk grosgrain backed with a silk ribbon. It hooks and snaps into place. Finished to couture standard by hand. I see one small spot on one of the appliques to the side of the front waist. There is some slight grubbiness to some of the applique pieces near the hem. At some pint a repair was done to the skirt at the back. It is extremely well done and I only initially spotted it when steaming the skirt from the inside. You would never notice it on but mentioned for accuracy. Please review the photos after the label shot. The color in person is a touch more vibrant then how it photoed.

Sleeves: 12"
Shoulders: approx 15"
Bust: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 43" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS

Item# DD3329

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This beautiful and happy feeling dress is one of my favorites from the pieces of Malcolm Starr that I have had in the shop. It was designed by Elinor Simmons, who was a young designer that Malcolm brought in to the company to design a higher end line for him in 1965. She eventually left in 1972 which giving us a window within to date the dress. Everything about this dress suggest the late 1960s.

The silk fabric that the dress is made out of is very pretty and fresh feeling with huge flowers printed across its entire surface. The bodice skims over the torso with darling little capped sleeves and a high set, ribbon detailed waist line. The neck is detailed in a double band of the same black braiding used at the waist. This use of a bit of a darker color anchors the design beautifully and contrasts against the pastels colors of the silk. The skirt falls to the floor, gradually widening out as it nears the hem. I love the fullness that this creates. The silk used has a almost polished cotton finish to it but with a touch more texture. The fabric choice really holds the shape of the dress beautifully and the color is wonderful. I love that it has pockets hidden away at the inset seams that run down the front. It really is a lovely dress. Excellent condition with a note below to review

Fully lined in an ivory muslin through the skirt and an ivory silky rayon through the bodice. It closes with a painted back metal zipper. The hem of the skirt is finished with ribbon. Some grubbiness to the edge of the hem. It appears that the back was taken out at some point alongside the zipper. It could be left as is or easily taken in again to be smaller. I also see what looks to be maybe a faint touch of a pen mark near the zipper. Please review the last photo after the shot of the label. Otherwise it appears to have been worn very little.

Bust: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 22.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 12" from neck to top band at the waist with 2" to the bottom band
Skirt: 42" from bottom band at the waist to hem with 3" turned up under the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD2730

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I am listing three of these early Bob Mackie and Ray Aghayan dresses today and all are from the daughter of the original owner. All three have some degree of flaws to them but it was very important to my client to find new homes for these where they could be loved once again so all are priced very reasonably given the rarity of them. All are strong and wearable if you don't mind  that they are not 100% perfect. They are all from the early seventies and showcase the very beginning of Bob Mackie's career and this early collaboration that he had with Ray, who would end up being his life partner as well and was already an established, award winning costume designer in his own right. This label precedes Mackie's own label.

The dress is made out of a stretch silk jersey in a stunning coral peach color that is a bit more vibrant in person then how it photoed here. I love the one shoulder silhouette and how the front of the bodice has an elaborate and beautiful beaded Native American feeling bird. All of the bead work is done by hand and has been hand applied to the dress. It is made entirely of turquoise, coral and wood beads and then it is edged in round silver beads. The tail of the bird is a dramatic cascade of long beaded fringe that goes almost to the hem. This elaborate applique gives the simple cut of the dress an instant dose of high glamour and the bird itself is like wearing a huge piece of jewelry. The fabric is cut on the bias and is insanely comfortable to wear so the contrast of that glamorous detailing paired with a comfortable dress is irresistible. This is an amazing piece for the collector and these early duo label examples are very rare as they were made in extremely limited quantities. I have sold another example of this dress in a different color so was very familiar with this one. This one is unlabeled and has some small flaws but is in overall great condition. 

Unlined and closes with a hand set, slightly offset back painted metal zipper. The bird was beaded as a separate piece and then hand applied. The stitching is easily seen on the back of the fabric. The color is a touch more vibrant in person. Unlabeled. My cleaners managed to lighten the spots that were on the dress and the one that are left are very light now. The last three photos show the worst of them. Sold as is and as final sale.

Bust: 15-17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 15-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 56" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3325

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is a beautiful Pucci dress that is made from one of his signature silk jerseys. This one has a base that is done in a vivid coral with a bright pattern worked onto it in a mix of purple and green. The colors absolutely pop off that coral backdrop. The bodice skims over the bust and continues in a loose fitting sheath right down to the hem. One of his signature contrasting printed borders runs down the front for detailing. A horizontal band of that same border accents the upper chest and another one also runs down the center of each sleeve. The cut is a simple and classic sheath with a slight A-line cut as the skirt nears its hem. The sleeves are left simple and slim cut to the elbow. This one has the added bonus of still having its original silk and beaded crystal tassel belt. These belts were hand made by Coppola e Toppo and are very well documented. I have seen these sold on their own for several hundred dollars and even girls who have used them as necklaces. Still having it with the dress means that you are getting a little extra fabulous. This is a classic Pucci silhouette that is instantly recognizable and very sexy despite it not being super form fitting. This colorway is fantastic and his fabric choice and the high quality of the silk jersey that he used means that the colors are remarkably bright and true even after all these years. Excellent condition.

Unlined and slips on to wear with silk covered buttons at the front. Hand finished. The fabric does have some stretch.

Sleeves: 18"
Shoulders: 16"
Bust: 18-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14.5-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 37" from neck to hem
Belt: 60" from end to end

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Item# DD3266

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This coat is extraordinary. It bears the Eisa label, originally launched by Cristóbal Balenciaga in 1917. The name came from the shortening of his mother's maiden name. During the Spanish Civil war the label briefly closed but then re-opened in 1939 until it was closed permanently in 1968. Cristóbal himself oversaw this line and items were made to couture standards. Based on the cocoon silhouette and the work he was doing in that time period this coat dates to approx the late 1950s, early 1960s. Cristobal Balenciaga was known for his fine tailoring and sculptural approach to design. The restrained and refined lines of this coat showcase exactly that aesthetic. Even Dior himself declared Balenciaga as 'the Master of us all' and Balenciaga's impact on fashion cannot be underestimated. He passed away in 1968 so any time I acquire a piece that pre-dates his death, I am especially thrilled.

The coat bears that elusive Eisa label and would have been made by hand n the atelier. It is extremely well made as one would expect. Cristobal was known for doing fitting with clients himself, from the initial muslin stage all the way through to the final fittings. This coat, having been constructed during the years he was alive, means that it would be one of those a garments that were fitted by him. It is cut with the volume and curving cocoon silhouette that defined the era. I love how the buttons run almost right to the bottom hem. This in itself is unusual and a clue to who designed it without even seeing the inner label. It does up right to the collar. When it is completely close the collar is a small and neat circle around the neck that wraps over itself. When it is unbuttoned it softens and becomes more pointed and feels larger. A clever little design detail. The seams are cut gracefully on a vertical line and kept to the absolute minimum. The cut of the coat is simple, yet extremely beautiful. The subtlety of the seams is fabulous in person. The shoulders  are dropped and curved. The arms cut tot just below the elbow. Volume is built in through the body. These are all classic elements of his iconic cocoon or egg coat. Front pockets are hidden along the seams that runs down the front. The fabric is a wonderful element all on its own in this coat. It is a nubby textured wool that has been dyed to a brilliant and striking orange with a hand dyed silk lining to match. The color alone makes it brilliant. It still feels insanely modern and is a rare and collectible piece of mid-century couture. Excellent condition

Lined in hand set orange silk taffeta. It buttons to close and has pockets on each hips. Each pocket is lined in silk. Proper button holes and hand finished. The easy cut will allow it to fit a range of sizes

Sleeves: approx. 21"
Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: to 27" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist-hips: open
Length: 38" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG

Item# C510

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

As soon as I set my eyes on this dress I knew I had seen it before and after some extensive hunting I found the photo that it had triggered a memory of. A version of this dress was photoed by Irving Penn for the September issue of Vogue in 1967. That dress was by Geoffrey Beene but in a different color way and a version with a higher neckline. They are otherwise identical and the fabric is as good in this color as it is in that shot. Geoffrey Beene was one of the great American fashion designers and he was recognized for both his artistic and technical skills. He launched his label in 1963 and a piece from his very first collection landed the cover of Vogue. This is a wonderful and very early example of his work.

I barely feel the need to describe this dress to you as Vogue description is utter perfection. The text in the editorial states the dress as being a "new cloth of glow... a printed matelasse with clear lacquer colors webbed with silver threads for the beautiful evening proportion of a small covered top and the widest sweep of skirt." Matelasse is French for 'quilted' or 'cushioned' and in usage with fabric, refers to quilted textiles. It is meant to mimic the style of hand-stitched Marseilles type quilts made in France. This gives the dress a slight dimensional quality. The silver thread runs over the fabric for the slightest glint of a metallic feel. The upper bodice is meant to be fitted and the sleeves are long and slim. The skirt sweeps out with the volume created by the fabric choice that helps to hold the shape and by the way it is set in around the waist. Like the reference photo, this version also has pockets hidden along each hip. It is absolutely wonderful in person and I think even better then how it photoed. I am so pleased to have found documentation of this rare and wonderful piece of fashion history. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a silk taffeta in a pale peach color It closes with a back, painted metal zipper. Hand finished throughout. There is a good 4.5" of fabric turned up at the hem if you need more length and 2/5" turned up under each sleeve. Pockets along the seam on the hip

Sleeves: 22.5"
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips" open
Bodice: 15" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 41" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3171

Reference photo: Photographed by Irving Penn, Vogue US September 1967

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Chiffon layers edged in prong set rhinestones give this pretty coral dress a shot of high glamour. The bodice curves over the bust and the chiffon there is set between the banding at the waist and the banding that follows the neckline in vertical pleats. This adds both detailing and texture. The banding is also detailed with a scattering of prong set rhinestones. The skirt swoops to the floor below the bodice and there is actually quite a bit of fabric that has been used in its construction. It is all cut on the bias though so it feels more like a column when the wearer is standing still and only displays its wonderful fullness once you move. An angled panel of fabric wraps around the skirt for extra fullness and to perfectly balance out the one shoulder of the bodice. This panel is also detailed with rhinestones along its edge. The perfect final detail is a bow that sits on top of the shoulder and is made of the same combination of chiffon and rhinestones. Excellent condition.

Fully lined in a matching silky rayon. The chiffon this one is made of is a synthetic so will wear very well. It closes with a painted metal and nylon side zipper. It is unlabeled but did have one - you can see the outline of it where it was cut out unfortunately. In person it is a touch of a softer coral then how it photoed.

Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15.5" from top of shoulder to bottom of the band at waist
Skirt: 43" from bottom of the band at waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# E632

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I have had this Frank Usher tucked away for a long time because it is so amazing that it was hard to let go. It is really amazing. It drapes to the floor in a slinky column of jersey that is gathered all along the center front. This gathering detail makes it very forgiving on the body and very flattering. The fabric is a jersey that is almost like a bathing suit jersey and it is a choice that allows it to drape and move wonderfully. It's a definite statement maker with that brilliant orange-coral color and has a Grecian goddess feel to it. It is cut on the bias so falls and drapes to follow every curve. The skirt is long and lean and glides to the floor. Above that, the top is cut to angle towards the center with ties extending out that cross over each other and then wrap around the neck. You can also wear it with more of a V at the neck. Those ties are miles long and fall almost to the hem at the back which gives the back its own drama. Add to that a low scooped back that leave your back bare and it is a knock-out. The fabric is wash and wear and will pack & travels exceptionally well. I love it. Excellent condition

Made from a double layer of the jersey. It slips on to wear with a low back zipper and an enclosed elastic that wraps around the waist and then hooks. The halter ties at the back of the neck. Tagged a vintage UK38/US12. The fabric has stretch so it will fit a range of sizes. I have given the comfortable range of stretch when measured flat below.

Bust: variable since it has no true side seams and has stretch
Waist: 13.5-15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner layer hips: 18-23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: somewhat adjustable but approx 56-58" from neck to hem it will vary a little depending on how you tie it at the neck

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG

Item# DD2774

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

These little 1950s Hawaiian dresses are wonderful and are cut to give you curves. They have such a classic silhouette that they still feel fresh even after 50+ years. This one is unlabelled and would have most likely come directly out of Hawaii in the movement that was set up to cater directly to the thriving tourist market of that era. These sarong styled sun dresses were worn by Hollywood starlets and girls bought them in droves to emulate their favorite stars. I love the sarong style skirting with its attached illusion of a wrap skirt complete with a little tie of fabric that sits at the side of waist. This one is boned through the bodice for support and the neckline is slightly gathered at the bust for a touch of detailing. The print is a pretty mix of a right tropical orange against a brown and tan backdrop. It is very pretty and very flattering on. The fabric is still crisp and it appears to have never been worn. Excellent condition

The dress is unlined and has boning in the bust area It closes with a side painted metal zipper. Made of a crisp cotton and appears to have never been worn, or worn very little.

Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 26" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# D598

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This really spectacular piece by Pauline Trigere that is one of her best documented pieces. It was photoed for Vogue in 1966 by Henry Clark while on location in Turkey. The fashion details in that issue described this piece: "High waisted drift of sun printed chiffon with a toga-scarf, and its own little body stocking to wear underneath. By Trigere of Staron silk". This editorial is instantly recognizable and it is a pleasure to have this piece in the shop. 

When you look at the photos from Vogue at first glance, especially the published one, you think this is a dress. However it is actually an extremely wide cut legged jumpsuit. It is also surprising in how it is constructed - it seems to lie half way between a dress and a half jumpsuit. Looking at the photos again the model appears to be wearing a nude halter underneath in the shots. There is a built in body suit inside and you can see that on the mannequin it is sitting too low. If you are short through the body it might come up just to, or over your bust line, otherwise you would wear it as a high waisted full pant. A long panel of fabric is attached at the front. This can be swooped up and over one shoulder. Again, referring to the shoot photos you can see that this is what they did. It  is constructed from layers of a printed silk chiffon that combine pink, pale mint and tangerine The silk used is almost weightless. It flows to the floor and when on you can barely tell that it is indeed pants as they are so wide and full. The front panel extends down past the hem and I have just scooped it up and over one shoulder. It is a very unusual design and will take some styling but it is a rare and historically documented piece. I purchased this years ago I and was told it came from a models closet so suspect that it might just be the actual piece used in this shoot. It is very beautiful. Excellent condition with one small note below.

Has an attached crepe bodysuit in a nude color. This zips up the back with a painted metal zipper. The silk over this snaps in place to close. Hand finished. Has a hand numbered tag inside #159. Slight wear to the fabric on the inside band of the waist where it hooks to close. 

Top band of waist/Underbust: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips of inner body suit: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length of inner suit: 23.5" from top of band to inner seams
Pant length: 45" from top of band to hem with a 4.5" turned up interior hem
The front attached fabric panel is 56" long from where it is inset to the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED depending on how how you wear it

Item# DD2996

(1) Editha Dussler in Pauline Trigere, from the editorial Eastward to Eden, Vogue, December 1966. Shot by Henry Clarke. (2) Outtake from that same shoot.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

A similar dress in yellow was photoed in 1965 and the dress with its beautiful, almost iridescent peach is even prettier in my opinion. Marc Bohan was only a couple of years into his tenure as head of Dior and the 1965 collection was a study in line and cut. He designed a gown called the "Eloise" that year that has a similar cut and apron technique used in the skirt, it is the obvious that this dress is descended from that. I have included photos of both dresses as reference.

The first thing about this dress that you are drawn to is the color. It is an amazing shade of peach and the camera does not quite capture the slightly iridescent quality that the silk adds to its impact. In person it is gorgeous and the color is richer and has more depth. The dress is immaculately constructed. For example, the edge of each inner seam is painstakingly wrapped in a thin banding of silk chiffon. The work to do this with such a finicky fabric would have taken hours to complete just this one detail and it is a detail that is unseen. The dress has a almost sculptural feel to its shape. The bodice is sleeveless and has a softly scooped neck. It is cut and fitted to skim over the body by perfectly placed seaming. The skirt is deceptive as it appears to be a simple cut but it is actually constructed in layers.  There is an inner fitted skirt that has two slit pockets that sit on each hip. Over this inner layer are two attached panels, one that sits over the front of the skirt and the other that sits over the back. The best way to describe it is like an attached apron that leaves the sides open on either side to see the inner skirt. It is exquisite. Excellent condition with a note to review below concerning the inner lining.

The dress is fully lined in a white silk chiffon on both the inner dress and under the skirt overlays. The inner silk bodice is lined in a silk crepe. It closes at the back with a painted metal, hand set zipper. There is a second hand set metal zipper that closes the inner waist and bodice. Hook and eye are hidden to close the band set at the waist. All the edges of the inner seams are finished with a silk chiffon edging. Some of the inner lining is splitting horizontally here and there as the fabric used was so fine and delicate. I have chose to leave it as found rather then having it removed. It is all original and is stable and wearable as is and of course you do not see the lining when it is on. It appears to have not been worn or worn very little otherwise. The label is numbered denoting its demi-couture status.

Bust: 18.5" flat across the back from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across the back from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19.5" flat across the back from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16" from shoulder to waist
Skirt: 26" from waist to to bottom hem

Modern Sizing equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD953

Reference photo: (1) Marc Bohan for Christian Dior, 1965.  /  (2-3) from the book Dior, Marc Bohan 1961-1989 by Assouline.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival

This was designed when Youssef Rizkallah headed the company so would have been made between the years of 1969 and 1975. The years that Youssef headed the line are among some of my favorites and in particular his pieces that utilize quilting and patchwork are truly iconic. Rizkallah was born in Egypt and studied at the Ecole de dessin appliqué and the Ecole des arts decoratifs in Paris. The fabric used is unusual in that it feels like a light wool. It is not a fabric that you see a lot of for this line but it holds the shape and color beautifully. The bodice skims over the torso with darling little capped sleeves that are each finished with a little bow. The  waist line is defined with a seam and set a little higher then the natural waist for just a hint of an empire feel. The neck is scooped and the pattern places on the bodice to highlight the shape and curve of the dress. The skirt cascades to the floor in a widening swath of fabric and the combination of fabric and the quilting detail helps to give it the shape that you see. A decorative row of buttons runs down the front for added detailing. The colors used are wonderful and the dress has a glamorous and exotic feel. I love that it has pockets hidden away along the seams of the skirt. It is really a lovely dress. Excellent condition.

Fully lined in a purple silky rayon through the bodice and self-backed through the skirt. It closes with a painted back metal zipper. The buttons down the front are decorative only. I see a tiny bit of discoloration on the interior lining of the bodice but the exterior is pristine.

Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 14" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 40" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD2947

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Earlier this week I listed a Bill Tice that I own the twin of and I have to confess that I also own a twin of this one. I wear it endlessly - most often without the jacket. It is super sexy with that low demi-cup halter bodice and little bare keyhole just under the center front. The straps are tiny and curve up and around your shoulders and its cut so it feel like the back sits slightly off the body. It is made of a peach jersey that is meant to mimic a silk. It feels amazing on and has the added bonus of traveling very well. It is the kind of set you can throw into your suit case and slip on with either flats or heels when you reach some far off destination and be perfectly ready to go. The inner dress is long and slim with pleats running down its length and a pretty print that slowly turn more of a pale green as it nears the hem. The jacket has that same print treatment and just slips on ans ties at the neck. There is a high slit up one leg of the dress that shows when you walk or sit. I love the flat piping detail that runs across the bust. Excellent condition.

Unlined and both pieces slip on. Ties at the top of the neck of the jacket. The easy fit allows it work on a variety of sizes as long as the bust fits.

Jacket
Sleeves: 24.5"
Shoulders: 12.5"
Bust: open
Waist: open
Length: 19.5" from neck to hem

Dress
Bust: 16-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: open
Hips: open
Length: 55" from shoulder strap to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Item# DD2941

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I have had the twin of this in the shop before but the first was a little smaller then this one is. It is from earlier in his career and I love the statement making combination of that classic 1960s orange and yellow color palette with the starkness of the black. The top part of the jumpsuit is cut like a little button down shirt with pointed, notched collar and short sleeves. The print is set in the highlight the cut. A row of black, decorative buttons trails down the front and I love how the pattern is used to create the illusion of 'cuffs' on each sleeve. The bottom is a pant that has wide panels of fabric wrapped over each wide cut leg so that depending on how you stand it appears to be a full length skirt. Each outer side of each leg has a sexy slit that is cut to just past the knee for a little flash of skin Excellent condition.

Fully lined in a black silky cotton mix and closes with a hand set, back painted zipper. The buttons at the front are decorative only.

Shoulders: 16"
Bust: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15.5" from neck to waist
Skirt: 43" from waist to hem
Inseam: 30"

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD2822

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This gorgeous dress is by Bob Mackie and from his main line which can be considered as demi-couture. He Mackie is best known for dressing Cher. His work showcases his love of over-the-top opulence and often showcase extensive bead work and applique work. He worked for both Edith Head and Jean Louis before starting his own label. This early entry into costume design and the glamor of Hollywood continued to influence his work through his career. His designs are always extravagant and glamorous in the best possible way. Here we have a piece from the 1980s and it has that opulent feel in spades. The gown in made in delicious shades of metallic golds through the bodice mixed with a pastel coral based metallic silk for the skirt. The bust is strapless and has a gold cord embroidered "lace" applique that covers it all the way around. This is layered over the same silk the skirt is made up of. Scattered over this are gold and clear crystals that catch the light when you move. The skirt is fabulous and the silk is a nod to Fortuny in the pleating treatment. The silk here has a lame feel to it and seems to glow. The underskirt is a gold silk taffeta and there is a lot of fabric there so it really has fullness and movement when you move. The bodice is very structured and molded. It feels like couture once on. Extremely well made. Excellent condition with two small condition notes to review below.

Fully lined in a muted gold silk though the bodice and the silk taffeta underskirt is interlined in a silk organza. The bodice has a built in, molded bra and boned corset built in under the lining. There is also an inner waist stay. It closes with a back painted zipper. Hand finished throughout. There is a small repair to the silk near the hem at the front and another near the base of the zipper. The pleating treatment to the silk effectively hides these when on but mentioned for accuracy and I have photoed both.

Bust: 17.5-8" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam and the inner waist stay hooks to fit a either a 26-27" waist, if you need the full 28" you can leave the stay undone or remove it
Hips: open
Bodice: 9.5" from top of bodice to true inner waist
Skirt: 43.5" from true inner waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD2814

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.