
jean patou
1940s Jean Patou Haute Couture Strapless Black Silk Chiffon Dress w Tiered Full Skirt
I Have a Question
- This is an exceptionally beautiful Jean Patou silk chiffon dress that is an absolute masterpiece. It is an important and early representation of both the house of Patou and the level of Haute Couture being produced during this time period.
- Jean Patou once said "Certain dressmakers desire to pass for an artist. I have one ambition: that is to have good taste." and this dress is the very epitome of that statement.
- The dress is made entirely by hand and represents countless hours of dedicated hand work within the atelier. It is one of the most beautiful dresses that I have had come through my hands and the photos cannot begin to convey the detail and fine work that has gone into the creation of this piece.
- It is constructed from a fine black silk chiffon and the bust is fitted with a boned and shaped interior to hold the dress around you. The upper edge of the bust has a little silk chiffon ruffle that folds over for a pretty detail.
- It cinches in at the waist and the skirt flows down on a gentle curve. The waist seam curves upwards at the centre front and then curves downward towards the hip. The back seam continues curving downwards to to create a dip at the back.
- Under this the skirt falls in a cascade of silk chiffon tiered panels. There are three in total and each one overlaps the one underneath. Hidden in between the ruffles are panels of silk organza which helps to give the dress its volume. An extra panel sits under the very lowest tier. Inside the skirt is a layer of stiffened netting.
- The skirt follows the same curve the waist seam has with the front coming up a touch and the back sweeping out behind you.
- We have not added anything under the skirts. There is room to go fuller if you wanted to add a crinoline underneath you can go as full as you wish.
- A spray of pink silk flowers and black velvet leaves run down one side of the skirt.
- This is really an extraordinary piece of early golden era Haute Couture. Finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely done by hand.
- The bodice has a hand set silk lining and is boned. It closes with hand set back metal zipper. The skirt is lined as described above. I see some minor grubbiness around the hem of the interior lining. The tulle lining under the skirt is raw cut and there may be occasional little break near the hem here and there. There is light stress near the seams on the bodice around the waist area that indicate there was a belt or ribbon attached at some point. You could easily add a belt or ribbon and you would never see these. The flowers do not feel fresh. They are just tacked in place and they could be removed or replaced.
- Excellent overall condition.
Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam at the top of the hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: approx 12" from top of bodice to waist
Total length: 53" from top of bodice to front hem, 62" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5219
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

christian lacroix
jean patou
Extraordinary Fall 1985 Jean Patou Haute Couture by Christian Lacroix Feather Trim Cocoon Coat
I Have a Question
- Note that due to new regulations this coat can only ship to a Canadian address
- This appears to be the actual Haute Couture sample coat that walked the runway for the Fall 1985 Jean Patou collection for Look 12
- Made under the creative direction of Christian Lacroix
- This is an extremely rare and important piece of fashion history. Very few pieces of his work at Patou come up for sale and this is more then likely the only piece to exist.
- Made in the Paris atelier
- Made of a soft orange wool shaped in an enveloping cocoon shape highly reminiscent of a 1920s flapper coat.
- It is all cut on the bias so once it is on the body it wraps around you beautifully. It is extraordinary.
- The sleeves are quite extremely wide and they have a long wide cuff that flips up and over the sleeve. The cuff is completely covered in hand dyed feathers.
- More of the same hand dyed feathers are used to create a huge shawl collar that drapes down and over the shoulders. It continues to run all the way to the hem and circles around to the back hem.
- The coat narrows in as it reaches its bottom. This is a classic cut for this style of cocoon coat
- It feels wonderfully decadent and opulent, both key design elements in Lacroix's work. It is literally like wearing a work of art.
- Partially lined in a silk through the upper body of the coat and through the sleeves. The rest is unlined.
- Has its hand written Haute Couture sample label in place and attached metal couture tag
- Excellent condition
It is very full and open and has no closures so should fit almost any size. It is approximately 52 inches from neck to hem but that will come up a bit once it is on the body.
Modern Sizing Equivalent: OSFA
Item# DD5048
Reference Photo: Fall 1985 Christian Lacroix Haute Couture.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.