The Haute Couture tape hidden behind the label gives us the exact date on the amazing Emanuel Ungaro dress and jacket set. Ungaro recently passed away and that always makes you look at a designers work with a new appreciation. Ungaro launched his label in 1965 after stints at Balenciaga and Courrreges. He was a brilliant designer who was known for his of extravagant fabrics and flamboyance.

This two piece set is fantastic. The inner dress is signature Ungaro for this time period and is cut to hug every curve of your body once on. It is made out of a metallic silver velvet that has little bits of a silver lame thread worked through it. This is then hand gathered into soft pleats that run the full length of the dress. On the bodice they are set to curve and accentuate the bust with high peaks and a boned interior. The waist nips in and the skirt has more of these same gathers that add shape and emphasis to your curves. There is a thin strip of hand applied sequins that runs down each side of the dress. All applied by hand and incredible. Over this is an ivory silk jacket that has embroidery work, silk netting insets and applique work, in addition to the feathers that you see. The closer you get to that fabric the more astonishing it is. In the lace netting insets the netting is detailed with tiny rhinestones and pearls. These are all connected with the embroidery to give it a touch of a patchwork feel but in a very couture way. The shoulders are gathered and then the sleeves narrow as they reach the cuffs. The waist is shaped in so it almost has the curve of a dandy coat in feel. Then of course the feathers that wraps around the neck, down the front and around the hem, give it the most amazing finish. It is true numbered Haute Couture and remarkable. Excellent condition with a minor note below

The dress is hand lined in a ivory silk and closes with a hand set side zipper. Boning in the bodice of the dress and an interior waist stay that hooks to close.  The jacket has no closures and slips on wit padding in each shoulder. All made to Haute Couture standards and the dress has its Couture label and numbered /dated tape present. There is a slight bit of yellowing to the interior of the dress which of course does not show when on. Please see the last photo after the label shot

Dress
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 9" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 24" from waist to hem

Jacket
Sleeves: 23"
Slightly extended shoulders: 16"
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: approx 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: approx 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 32" from neck to hem, including the feathers

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3367

Reference Photo: F/W 1984/85 Emanuel Ungaro Haute Couture. Photographed by Bill Connors. (via @only_french_couture)

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I had the twin of the dress ages ago and I was so pleased to find another recently. Ungaro recently passed away and that always makes you look at a designers work with a new appreciation. Ungaro launched his label in 1965 after stints at Balenciaga and Courrreges. His pret-a-porter line, Ungaro Parallele, was created in 1968. He was a brilliant designer who was known for his of colors and flamboyance. I am very please to have found a reference photo of the couture version of this dress from the Fall 1985 collection which means this RTW version was probably released that same season or the season after. 

I absolutely love this Emanuel Ungaro dress. The color is wonderful. It is perfect shade of purple that is done on a fluid silk. He has used two types, a solid silk to create the pleated bust and for the skirt, the fabric has a wonderful secondary pattern of small dots woven through it. The fabric is quite light in weight so despite the elaborate construction of the dress is not heavy to wear, but it does hold the intended shape fabulously. The bodice is cut with a strapless, peaked and plunged neckline. It is elaborately pleated and fitted around the bust with hand placed and gathered folds and internal structure and light wiring. Under that the skirt is set into the bust to follow the angled line at the front. It is set in with soft gathers all around, and then wraps and closes at the back. The bodice has a touch of asymmetry to it and the way the skirt is set in subtly plays on this At the back it wraps over itself and snaps into place with a series of snaps hidden along the lower edge of the bust. This allows a bit of leg to show at the back when you walk. It is incredible. Excellent overall condition with a note to review below

Fully lined in a purple silk chiffon and closes with a back zipper for the corseted interior and then the skirt snaps into place along the seam line. There is a touch of fading to the fabric along the edge of the back panel. Please see the photo after the label shot. The corset fully zippers open and if it's not caught right the teeth can open a touch I have left it as it works fine if you just re-zip it until they catch. The bodice is boned and shaped. Hand finished

Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 54" from top of bodice to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3353

Reference Photo: (1) F/W 1985/86 Emanuel Ungaro Haute Couture Runway.  /  (2) F/W 85/86 Emanuel Ungaro Haute Couture. Photo by Hiro.  /  (3) F/W 85/86 Emanuel Ungaro Haute Couture. Photo by Marco Glaviano.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.