This dress came with tags from the StarWares auction and was part of an auction several years prior to her passing. Even without the Hollywood connection it is a drop dead gorgeous Ungaro dress and with the recent revival of all things eighties feels surprisngly fresh once again. I have had a similar dress to this in the shop before and this is one of my favorite designs by him. It is utterly fantastic in every possible way and manages to be dramatic, sexy and classic all at once. It is superbly fitted and almost corseted through the torso where the silk is gathered in perfect soft drapes. The shoulders are cut high and square and the sleeves begin fuller at the top pf the arm and then narrow to a zipped cuff. I love the square off front with the angled inset sleeves and the sexy cut out detailing at the back. The fabric is 100% silk inside and out and has a fantastic yellow dot print on black. It is very well made with hand finishes and could have been custom made in this particular fabric just for Joan. The wrapped panel of fabric that ends in a bow on the hip gives it a bit of a forties vibe. A really stunning dress. Excellent condition

The dress is fully interlined in black silk chiffon and closes with a back painted metal zipper and a button at the top back neck. Shoulder pads, lightly boned through the bodice and hand finished. Note that on the proper sized girl it will close completely - it was too small on my mannequin to do so hence the gap mid-back

Sleeves: 23"
Shoulders: 15.5"
Bust: 15-15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 11.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 20.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS

Item# DD2318

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is truly one of those extraordinary Haute Couture pieces that every collector and vintage lover needs to own in their collection. Everything about this piece showcases the restraint of couture and the mastery of fabric and technique. It is as chic and wearable now as it was when first made. It is entirely made by hand, including the fabric - you can clearly see the hand work done to set the lining. Haute Couture is the very pinnacle of the fashion experience and I would hazard to say that vintage versions are even a little more special then modern ones.

The two piece set made of a beautiful embroidered open work lace with sequins hand applied to highlight the floral parts of the design in the lace. When worn together the feel is that of a simple, well cut suit that could be worn for cocktails or evening (though a modern girl would even wear it for day). The jacket works equally well as a stand alone piece as it does as part of the set. I love the body skimming cut and shorter sleeve - this feels fresh and modern. It gives the set a lightness and airiness that a full sleeve would take away from. The skirt is constructed to skim over the hip with a slight flare as it nears the hem. The fabric is very light in weight and backed in a silk dyed to match the light pastel silver grey tone perfectly. No shortcut was taken in the construction and it is a stand out piece in every possible way. However much you think this looks fabulous in the photographs it is infinitely better in person. Excellent condition with one small condition note below.

The jacket and skirt are both fully lined in a hand set silk of very high quality. The jacket closes with hidden set silk covered snaps at the front. The skirt closes with a hand set, painted metal zipper and flat hook and eye at the back. There is a small faintly darker area on the back lower third of the skirt to the left. I have attempted to capture it in the photo here and it is mentioned for accuracy only - it in no way deter or change the value of this magnificent example of Ungaro's Haute Couture work. Finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely made by hand. Haute Couture tape label present under label #H598- 8(or3)-75

Top
Shoulders: no true defined seam
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 21" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 27" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD2478

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This top is so pretty and romantic. It is made from a scarf weight silk that has a striped worked through the fabric. Between the stripes the fabric is fairly sheer so feels very light and transparent. The body of cut loose and easy. The sleeves are cut with a slight fullness and each cuff is finished with a ruffle of silk. This picks up on the high cut collar that is also finished with a ruffle. At the neck of the collar is a attached ascot that gives the top a touch of rock and roll glamour. Flat, glossy yellow buttons are the perfect finish. Excellent condition.

Unlined and buttons down the front. Each cuff buttons to close.

Sleeves: 26"
Shoulders: 13.5"
Bust: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Item# S783

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Many people do not know that Emanuel Ungaro took a position with Balenciaga in 1958 and in 1960 he became the chief designer of the house, staying there until 1964 before he briefly went on to Courreges before opening his own couture atelier in 1965. The house has fallen from its former glory of the sixties through to the eighties, but in its heyday, the label was a force in the world of Haute Couture. By the 1970s his brilliant use of print and color combined with soft fluid tailoring made him a darling of the jet set. This gorgeous little day dress is a beautiful example of the more conservative end of his range in cut, but it still has that pop of a print that he was known for. It is made of a fine printed silk with a mod feeling print that covers its entire surface. It can be worn for the day or for cocktails with proper accessorizing. I love the refined cut and those full, balloon cut sleeves. The fabric is very light in weight and backed in a fine silk that gives the dress a very sensual feel once on. No shortcut was taken in the construction and it is of course, entirely made by hand. The neckline is high and yoked with the shoulders and bodice softly gathered. A fabric tie runs around the waist so that you can wear it loose  and easy in more of a shift shape, or you can tie them in to cinch it for added shape. The skirt has two little slant pockets that sit on each hip. However much you think this looks fabulous in the photographs it is far better in person and on a body. Excellent condition with one small condition note below about the lining.

Fully lined in a hand set silk of very high quality. It closes with a hand set, painted metal zipper and hook and eye at the back. Each cuff has a fine hand set zipper and hook & eye. The belt is partially attached and snaps into place where it is not. Note that the exterior has no flaws whatsoever, but there is a small amount of shattering under each arm to the lining only. It is stable enough to wear as presented. Finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely made by hand. Haute Couture tape label present under label #H205-5-74

Sleeves: 25" approx.
Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 14.5" from shoulder to waist
Skirt: 28" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item#DD2522

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Besides its Haute Couture origins, this Emanuel Ungaro set has the added modern provenance of being worn to Madonna's birthday party in Italy by stylist B. Akerlund. It has also been photoed for creative purposes with all those reference photos included here. 

A brilliant mix of bright, primary colors have been used to create this wonderful couture skirt and top set. Both pieces are made from high quality silks that have subtly different weights and finishes to them. The top is more of a soft draped silk, while the skirt is made from a silk taffeta to give it more shape and volume. The finishes on the silk also are different and become a part of the design itself. The top has a subtle floral design woven into the silk and the skirt has dots. The top is a deep red silk cut loose and easy with billowing sleeves that button at each cuff. The front plunging keyhole is edged and highlighted with gold cord and has inset bands of silk. The green taffeta skirt has a cinched and banded waist done in a bright yellow silk. It  extends out into extra long, attached ties that are wrapped and tied around the waist. On the skirt there is an attached front panel of fabric in a play on an apron,  that has a beautiful painted scene. Perhaps inspired by Paul Gauguin? The contrast of the jeweled colors and the painted panel on the skirt give it a wonderfully couture folk art feel. Excellent condition with one small item to note below.

The skirt is backed in a white, fine silk organza and closes at the waist with a zipper and flat hook and eye at the waist. The top is unlined and slips over the head. Both pieces are completely made and finished by hand as per the standard of haute couture. The top is labeled and the skirt has the interior cross stitch that couture pieces of this time period have to indicate the front. There is an area of very slight discoloration on the back of the skirt skirt and a water mark that falls under the apron that you do not see when it is on. One small smudge on the sleeve. All photoed

Shoulders: no defined seam
Sleeves: 26"
Bust: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: open
Length: 25" from neck to waist

Skirt:
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 45" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD1181

Reference photos: (1-3) Photographed for creative purposes by Nikki Ormerod, Styling: Nadia Pizzimenti, Hair & Makeup: Ashley Readings, Model: Constance from Plutino Models. (4-6) B. Akerlund and Madonna from B's instagram account.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

My client was a couture client of Ungaro's during this time period and this was one of her few RTW purchases. You can clearly see the reference to the longer version that walked the couture runway that was worn by Iman. I love the shorter version equally as much and the craftsmanship on it is wonderful.

The dress is one of the best Ungaro pieces I have come across. It feels shockingly modern and you can clearly see where many of the modern day designers have gotten their inspiration from the past few seasons. It is made out of a black silk satin that is trimmed in a black lace. Onto that lace are hand applied sequins that give it the perfect little shot of glitz. The shoulders are exaggerated and padded and the sleeves below have tremendous volume until they reach the cuffs. Each cuff is a full XX" ling and are fitted to the arm with a row of metallic thread knot buttons to close. The dress wraps and snaps into place and I love how the lace is set around the waist to draw the eye on and make it appear smaller. The dress is lined but only tot he upper portion of the lace at the hem so that it has a touch of transparency.  Its fabulous. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a black silk and closes with a combination of snaps and hook and eye at the waist. The cuffs button to close. Inner waist stay hooks to close. Padding at each shoulder

Sleeves: 28.5"
Shoulders: 16" but padded and over-sized
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist stat: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 22" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3046

Reference Photo: (1) Iman for F/W 1988 Emanuel Ungaro Haute Couture. / (2-4) Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I have held this in my archives for several years now and I think that it is a stunning example of the fur pieces being produced by designers like Ungaro during this time period. This was the beginning of the movement of treating fur more like a fabric and making coats that had far more style to them then the previous norm. I am no expert on furs but believe this it is a sheared mink or perhaps a sheared beaver. The color is a rich deep ivory or cream that has an undertone of a soft taupe to it. The fur is supple and very very soft. What is remarkable is that the diamond pattern you see on the back and front of the bodice has been achieved by cutting into the fur rather then piecing it together. I love this as it lessens the potential for damage as it ages and is probably part of why it is in such amazing shape still. It also gives the coat an added bit of texture and pattern. It is cut in an almost military great coat style with a far more flared out bottom skirting to it then a normal coat would have. There is actually quite a bit of volume to it that you will see when you have it on a move. The bodice above that is more fitted and close to the body. It does up at the front with smooth oval buttons and the neckline is high around the neck. The sleeves are cut straight and full and pockets sit along the seam at each hip.  It has been properly stored and cared for and appears to have been worn very little if at all. No splitting, issues or shedding. Excellent condition with a minor note below to review.

Fully lined in a soft taupe silky rayon and closes with the buttons down the front to the low set waist as seen. Slip pockets on each hip. I see no bald spots or shedding, the pelts are supple and soft. The fur has no odd odor, is still supple and is stable with no signs of any shedding that would indicate that it is breaking down. Any dark areas you see in any of the photos are lighting.

Sleeves: 24"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 16" from neck to inner waist seam
Skirt: 31" from inner waist seam to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# C491

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I have a small collection of historically important, key designer labelled vintage furs and fur trimmed pieces stored away in my archives that I will be slowly posting on the site over the next couple of years until I have none left. I will no longer be buying furs for the shop moving forward and have not purchased anything for several years now. I feel like times have changed and while there still is a place for vintage furs for some, including collectors and historians, many modern girls are choosing other options. Many of the pieces in my collection are representative of the designer during a set time period in history that was different then our modern outlook. I have decided that the best course to handle this controversial issue is to let the pieces I have go rather then sit in a cold storage unit. Fur coats are final sale.