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These net dresses and separates are among the most coveted of all Giorgio Sant Angelo's designs. They are almost impossible to find anymore and are much prized by their fans when one appears. Out of all the bandage and fitted dress out there over the decades these stand out as being some of the very best. This one is from the Spring 1990 collection and pieces were sold separately once they hit the stores so you could mix and match. You can see here in the runway pictures the various ways that the different pieces were worn.
This is a two piece set that is extremely stretchy and once on it is body conscious to the extreme. Both pieces are made out of a top layer of a fine stretch netting in a very bright and vibrant pink. Under that is a stretch jersey layer in an almost neon tangerine colour that acts as the lining. The bodysuit is cut like a bathing suit that you just pull on to wear and then you step and pull the skirt on over that. The gathered mesh allows you to make the skirt as high up the thigh as you dare or leave is as long as it will extend down. At its full length it will go to about mid-thigh or just below depending on your height. At it shortest you can hike it up to be micro mini in length. Both pieces are gathered heavily along the sides for extra ruching and the bodysuit has an extremely high side cut at the legs. I love that when you wear them together it looks like it is a one piece dress because of the gatherings on both pieces. You can also choose to mix and match them with other things in your closet. It is amazing and looks to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition.
Both pieces slip on to wear. They are almost impossible to measure as it literally will stretch to fit up and down. The measurements below are the relative measurements when laid flat and pulled. They will accommodate a range of sizes when off the body they look like something a child would wear, but they stretch.
Body Suit
Bust: up to about 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: up to about 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: up to about 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: its full length off the body is approx 28" from top of shoulder to bottom seam but it stretches to accommodate the body underneath it
Skirt
Waist: up to about 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: up to about 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: its full length off the body is approx 19" from top of shoulder to bottom seam but it stretches to accommodate the body underneath it
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4875
Reference Photos: (1) Joanna Rhodes in Giorgio di Sant'Angelo, photographed by Arthur Elgort for Vogue, December 1989. / (rest) Spring 1990 Giorgio di Sant Angelo.
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givenchy
Incredible Spring 1998 Givenchy by Alexander McQueen "Rhinestone Cowgirls" Runway Dress
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This is a very rare runway documented Givenchy Couture dress from the Spring 1998 ready-to-wear collection "Rhinestone Cowgirls". It is the twin of the one that walked the runway. This is from the small period of time that Alexander McQueen was the Creative Director for the house. At just 27 years old he succeeded John Galliano as head designer in 1996. In 2001 his contract ended and he departed, telling the press that his creativity was constrained. His appointment had been tumultuous from the start. Hubert de Givenchy had describe his appointment as a "total disaster” and McQueen had shot back that the founder was “irrelevant”. Of course now in hindsight we see his collections for the genius that they were. It also showed his ability to design Couture. He said in later interviews that he walked away from the label with a greater knowledge about the process and techniques of couture, which benefited his own label afterwards.
In the 'Givenchy Catwalk' book they note that the collection was heavily influenced by Westerns and said that "the hairstyles were inspired by the 1970s, especially Farrah Fawcett's iconic look with thick hair and flicked out ends. Dresses and suits made out of dip, lambskin, covered with flames and star motif created with insets of fabric appliqué." This is one of the most recognizable dresses from the collection and its photo also appears in that same book.
This dress is remarkable. It is strapless and the body of the dress is beautifully seamed. The upper edge of the bodice is finished with a dusty pink suede and the inner bodice is boned and shaped to hug the person wearing it. It is held in place by that inner corset and then it skims over the waist and down to the hips. I love how the skirt is set into the hip with a series of curved scalloped designs. This allowed him to do long vertical panels to make up the skirt. There are eight of them in total and each one spans out to be a full 25" across by the hem. That makes the bottom of the skirt incredibly full and if you lay it out flat, it is more than a full circle skirt. To emphasize the fullness of the skirt he had the model hold the skirt up and flick it around her as she moved. You can see in the photos here that when you are standing still you do have some idea of the fullness that the skirt has but this is really a piece that it is when you have it on and you see it moving that the amazing amount of fabric in the skirt gives it an entirely new dimension. The bottom of the skirt has been inset with the same dusty pink suede in the flame motif that ran so prominently throughout the show. I laid the dress out with the skirt extended so that you can get an idea of just how much fabric is in there. This is an amazing piece of both Givenchy and Alexander McQueen's history. Excellent condition with a note below.
The bodice and body to just past the hip is lined in a black silk. The skirt is backed in black. The dress closes with a hidden set side zipper and the inner bodice is boned throughout with a built-in corset to the waist. A waist stay hooks to close. The suede shows some very slight minor fading and light grubbiness here and there. There is a small area on the bodice where the black has slightly lightened to have a reddish tint and there are a couple areas on one part of the skirt that has done the same. Please see the photos after the label shot. Tagged a vintage Givenchy 40
Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 13.25" flat across from side seam to side seam. Note that the outer waist is up to 15" so you could adjust the corset if you needed more room.
Hips: to 25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 9.5" from top of bodice to inner waist of corset
Total length: 56" from top of suede edge of the bodice to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4872
Reference Photos/Video: (1-5) Spring 1998 Givenchy Runway. / (6) From the book "Givenchy Catwalk: The Complete Collections" by Anders Christian Madsen.
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This is a gorgeous little knit dress from the Fall 1997 Galliano collection that I believe was made for the shops. It is a dress that really showcases his quirkiness in design and how he loved to use different elements to create something new.
The dress is made out of a fine knit in a deep burgundy red. Through the body of the dress it has a pleated detail that runs vertically. The knit then has a ribbed detail that runs horizontally and the two together create a bit of a thatched effect through the main body of the dress. The top of the dress is made of two attached pieces that are done in a slightly smoother knit and this is where you can see his creativity. Inside the bodice there is a little halter top with ties that run behind the neck to tie in the place. Then attached along the seam underneath that is a knit panel that extends out into long ties. I have shown it tied a couple of different ways here and I think that if you use your imagination you can come up with even more. The back is scooped low so no matter how are you tied the panel you end up with an expanse of skin showing there. This is a great dress that you can layer underneath other things for that perfect little pop of Galliano in your wardrobe. Depending on your height this will be a full length or around the mid-calf. Excellent condition.
Unlined and slips on to wear with no closures. The halter ties behind the neck and the attached panel also ties in place. Tagged a vintage Galliano medium. The fabric does have some stretch so I put the comfortable range when laying flat.
Bust: each triangle covers approximately 7" flat across from side to side
Seam under the bust: 12-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 14-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 9-10" from neck to the seam under the bust
Total length: approx 54" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4845
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This spectacular dress is the twin of the dress that was worn by Linda Evangelista for the Fall 1994 Karl Lagerfeld runway show. It also has the added provenance of being photoed for British Vogue that November. The dress is from Karl Lagerfeld's own label. He launched his self-named label in 1984 and this dress is from 1991 making it a fairly early example of the work he was doing for his own label. Pieces from his personal label were far edgier then the work he did for Chanel. It was a label where he explored a more avant garde feel with his designs and pushed the envelope more. I just had this dress in the shop recently in a larger size, and I was pleased to have another one in a smaller size come in so quickly. This is a fantastic example of his work for that label.
This is a dress that is easy to wear and very sexy. On the runway Linda was styled with it falling completely off the shoulder and you can wear it like that or have that side sit up more on the actual shoulder. The edge of the neckline is cut on a angle that goes across and down to expose a bare expanse of skin. The shoulders are soft and the sleeves are cut to be a little extra long. At the ends of each sleeve they are finished off at angle that comes down and over the hand. The fabric is a cut velvet set in little rows over a bias cut chiffon base. The colour is a deep burgundy red that is flattering on most skin tones. It skims over the bust, waist and hips and I love how the rows are set on an angle to create the illusion of extra length. The hem follows the dip of the neckline with the skirt falling all the way to the floor on the one side and then coming up to about the knee area depending on your height on the other. It is fantastic and I love the tie in to Linda. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a silk mix chiffon and slips on the wear. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Tagged a vintage KL 38
Sleeves: 29" and 12" around the upper arm
Slightly dropped shoulders: 16"
Bust: 15-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 16-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 63" from top of shoulder to longest point of hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4844
Reference Photos/Video: (1-3) Fall 1994 Karl Lagerfeld Runway. Model Linda Evangelista. / (4) Vogue UK, November 1994.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Amazing Fall 1992 Yves Saint Laurent Gold Leopard Print Extra Wide Pant & Jacket Suit Set
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Yves loved a good leopard print but he did it in his own way and for the Fall 1992 presentation he did it in an amazing gold toned version. This is a stunning example of just how edgy he could be for this time period. This set is from the Rive Gauche collection and these were pieces that were sold separately. My client told me that she hunted to put the pieces together as they were sold out everywhere at the time. Several variations and pieces were shown on the runway in this print and we have included some of those examples here for you.
This two piece set combines a beautifully cut jacket with pants that have an extremely wide leg so that they look like you are wearing a full length skirt. Yves did variations of his iconic suits every season for both his Couture and Rive Gauche presentations with skirts and pants of varying lengths and cuts. They were shaped and tweaked by Yves to be immensely flattering on the female body. I love this pair of pants and how they give the feeling of a more formal full length skirt. It is also fabulous that you can mix and match the pieces with pieces you already own. The incredible gold fabric and leopard print make the suit feel so luxe and yet still elegant and refined in feel. The jacket is tailored with a sleek cut that follows the curves of the body. It has a notched collar and the sleeves are set into the jacket so that they are wide at the top and narrow to big flipped over cuffs. Large domed gold toned metal buttons are set on a slight angle to close the jacket. It comes in at the waist and then flares over the hips. The gold on the fabric feels like it was painted directly onto the fabric and it catches the light as you move. The pants are cut in the same amazing leopard print as the jacket. They fall to the floor and are incredibly wide by the time they reach their hem. Each leg is a full 62" around by the hem. This makes them look like a fuller skirt when you are standing still but gives you the ease of wearing pants when you move. And they have pockets. His suits changed the way we approach womanswear and this one is especially fabulous. It is a wonderful example of how strong his tailoring was and it is an important piece of fashion history. Excellent condition
The jacket is lined in a brown silk and buttons to close at the front. The pants are unlined and close with a side zipper and button at the waist. Pockets on each hip. Padding in each shoulder of the jacket. I see a little bit of fading to the fabric under the arms of the jackets' lining. The jacket is tagged a 40 and the pants have no size tag present.
Jacket
Sleeves: 25"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom seam: to 23.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 26" from neck to hem at the longest point at the front, 22" at the back
Pants
Waist: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 44.5" from waist to hem with just under 2" turned under the hem
Inseam: 30.5" and the gusset is 21" from back of waist to inner leg seam
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4833
Reference Photos: Fall 1992 Yves Saint Laurent.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
1994 Yves Saint Laurent Black Strapless Gold & Black Cord Dress w Side Bows
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This incredible dress is the Rive Gauche shorter version of the Fall 1994 famous Couture side bow dress. It is incredibly sexy and it feels very French. This one has the added modern provenance of being the actual dress worn Adria Arjona for the 2018 Gold Globes season. We have included a shot of her in the dress so you can see how it looks on the body along with the Couture dress that was the inspiration for this dress.
The dress is gorgeous and the fabric itself is part of what makes it so fabulous. The top layer of fabric is a black lace that has a silk cord applied on top of it to follow the pattern of the lace underneath. This sits over an inner lace that has metallic gold metal thread woven over its surface. The effect of the gold peeking out from underneath is gorgeous and I love the depth and interest that this creates. The dress is strapless and meant to hug and fit over the body. Inside there is a built in corset with boning that holds the dress in place around you. It hugs the bust and is shaped so that it curves in at the waist. There is no waist seaming, it just curves in for shape and then it skims over the hips and has a more pencil shape that will sit above the knee. How short it sits depends on your height. The dress has three pretty bows down one side. The top lace and cord layer is attached and it closes over the inner gold layer to the third bow. From the third bow to the hem that top layer is open so that when you walk and move you get a stronger feel of the gold underneath. It is absolutely fantastic and an instantly recognizable piece of YSL. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a black silk and closes with a hidden set side set zipper and the top layer of lace hooks in place over the zipper. The inner bust is boned. Tagged a vintage YSL 38
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 29" from top of bodice to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4827
Reference Photos: (1-2) Adria Arjona, wearing this dress, at the Vanity Fair x Instagram Golden Globes Party, January 2018. / (3) Fall 1994 Yves Saint Laurent Couture. / (4) Fall 1994 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture n° 67976 from Gros & Delettrez.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
john galliano
Rare Fall 1995 John Galliano 'Dolores' Collection Sharply Tailored Inner Corset Black Strapless Dress
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On the runway the closest to this dress seems to be Look 3 which was shown underneath a jacket and was cut to a longer length. This one with it's just past the knee, feels more versatile and wearable. The collection was called 'Dolores' and the muse was Dolores Del Rio the famous Hollywood star of the 1920s. The show told the tale of the love affair between her and James Martinz Del Rio. Besides the longer black version of this dress there was also a white strapless skirt and bodice that had a similar silhouette. This one with it's perfectly simple minimalist silhouette is an amazing way to wear a historically important and early piece of Galliono's work, while still having a dress that you can wear on many different occasions on its own or layered under other garments.
The dress is made from a lightweight black wool that has a slight texture to it. This choice of fabric lets it hold the shape that you see without making it heavy to wear. It is strapless and cut to skim perfectly over the body once on. There is a built-in boned inner corset that closes with its own row of lingerie hooks under the zipper at the back. This holds the dress in place on you and it also flattens and pushes the breasts up. The outer dress skims over that and then is shape so that it curves in at the waist for shapes. It curves back out over the hips and then the the skirt is cut in a sleek pencil that narrows down just a touch at the hem for the perfect hourglass shape. The seaming is all meticulously and purposefully done to shape the dress around you. A closed event at the back of the skirt allows you to walk and gives a little kick as you move. It is very chic and minimalist. Excellent condition with one small note below.
Fully built-in corset inside that closes with its own series of lingerie hooks and then the dress closes over that with a hidden set zipper. The dress is also lined in a black silk. I see one tiny nick in the fabric near the neckline at the front. Please see the photo after the label shot. Tagged a vintage Galliano 40/8
Bust: 15-15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5-14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 35.5" from top of the bodice to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-SML
Item# DD4799
Reference Photo: Fall 1995 John Galliano, Look 3. Model Michele Hicks.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Incredible Spring 1990 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway Look 50 Ivory Silk Dress
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The twin of this dress walked the runway for the Spring 1990 Haute Couture collection. Its twin was shown under a jacket on model Gloria Burgess and we found the original sketch of the dress in my YSL folio. I thought it interesting to see that Gloria was not the original model intended for the dress and that there was a change by Yves as to who wore it on the actual runway and you can see that interesting little detail in the sketch. I have included all the reference photos for you here and it gives you a beautiful idea of how fabulous this is once on the body. This is also the collection that the book 'Yves Saint Laurent: Catwalk' notes that "The end of this catwalk show was greeted by 10 minutes of a standing ovation, following Yves Saint Laurent's homage - via 119 designs - to the hugely talented men and women who had thus far influenced him and made an impression upon him". The dress is gorgeous and Yves always cut his couture pieces so perfectly. It really is a beautiful piece and in my opinion, owning a piece of his couture work is one of the ultimate vintage acquisitions.
The dress is amazing and showcases how wonderful Yves Saint Laurent could cut a dress to flatter a woman's body. It is made entirely by hand and the silk is that heavier richer silk that you only see in the very best pieces of couture. The top is cut to skim over you and blouse over the waist. The shoulders have padding to extend the line of them outwards a touch over the ends of the shoulder. The sleeves are cut full through the upper arms and then narrow to the wrists. Each cuff ends with four handmade silk covered buttons and loops and each button is perfectly functional. The neckline is set a touch wide across. The silk is gathered around the waist into soft folds to create a little extra bit of a detailing. The folds are set slightly off to the side and on an slight angle that visually helps to extend the body of the person wearing it. The waist is seamed but cut on the more generous side. To cinch it in we have added an ivory silk chiffon sash that is a beautiful match to the dress. The skirt falls under that in a simple shape that flares out as it nears the hem. It falls to just about the knee or above depending on your height and there are hidden pockets along each hip. The colour of the silk is beautiful creamy ivory. This is a brilliant dress and when you see it in person you will fall in love with how good it is in person. It really shows how sometimes simplicity can have so much of an impact. It would be a dress that might make an amazing wedding dress for the bride looking for a non-traditional choice, for a day wedding, or as an alternative dress in a more extended wedding celebration. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in an ivory silk and all the work is done by hand to Haute Couture standards. It closes with a hand set side zipper and a button at the back of the neck. An inner waist stay hooks to close. Each cuff has four hand made silk buttons and loop. Padding in each shoulder as described above. Completely made by hand. Proper Haute Couture numbered label present. The silk chiffon sash is not original to the dress but will be sent with it. Any change in colour that you see in the photos is lighting.
Sleeves: 22" and 14" around the upper arm
Slightly wide set shoulders: 16"
Bust: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16" from top of shoulder to waist but mean to blouse a bit
Total length: 38" from top of shoulder to hem with 2" turned under
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4727
Reference Photo: Spring 1990 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway. Model Gloria Burgess.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
loris azzaro
1990s Loris Azzaro Black Stretch Jersey Dress w Chiffon Angel Sleeves & Black Sequin Detailing
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Loris Azzaro launched his label in 1967 and quickly defined his trademark looks by using ornate beading, sequins, daring cut-outs and avant garde ways of defining the body. Some of the most beautiful women in the world wore his clothing including Marisa Berenson, Raquel Welch, Jane Birkin, Sophia Loren, Brigitte Bardot and Tina Turner. It was a label that defined sexiness and had a certain French flare that women world-wide loved. This is a label that I really love and am always happy to find pieces of.
This is an easy dress to wear because of the fabrics that it is made out of. Making fabrics that were comfortable to wear on the body glamorous and luxurious was one of the core philosophies of how Azzaro designed. This dress is made out of a black jersey through the body, which allows it some give, and then the remarkable sleeves are made out of a fine black chiffon. The lightness of the fabric used for the sleeves gives them incredible movement once this is on the body. The neckline sits wide across the neck and then it is edged in a row of overlapping black sequins. It skims over the body from there, past the bust, waist and hips to open out slightly as it nears the hem. Onto the front of the dress are five curving seams that are highlighted with a band of sequins. They almost give the impression of slashes across the front of the dress. The final sequin band curves down to meet the top of a slit that allows for some bare leg to show when you walk. The sleeves fall over the shoulders and are completely open along their insides. Once on the body these cascade all the way down to the hem of the dress and create the most incredible moment. The chiffon that they are made of keeps them ultralight so as you move they catch the slightest bit of air to swirl and billow around you. It is an incredibly easy dress to wear and incredibly glamorous once on the body. Excellent condition.
Unlined and slips on to to wear with a hidden set side zipper. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. The fabric does have some stretch and the measurements below are the comfortable range when laying flat
Bust: 16.5-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14.5-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5-22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 59" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4725
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Incredible Spring 1990 Yves Saint Laurent Runway Brilliant Green Jacket w Pink Lining & Black Skirt Set
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The twin of this set walked the Spring 1990 runway and it is one of my favourite looks from that show. This set is not 100% perfect but it is completely wearable and too good to pass by. I am very pleased to have found it and I love it. It is such a rare and special piece from this time period.
This set is one of those pieces that just stops you in your tracks. It is insanely cut and the colour combination is fantastic. The jacket is made from a fine lightweight silk and combines a bright emerald green and then an amazing hot pink interior. The skirt is made out of a light black silk jersey that moves exceptionally well. The colours are even better than how it photoed and it is almost shocking to see the pink interior in person. The jacket has a soft cut that has some fullness through the upper body. There is no collar and the neckline dips down into a V to just below the bust. There is a brilliant flower in a muted coral red that sits at the base of the V. The flower has beading detail at its centre and I love this added detailing. The shoulders are lightly padded for shape and the sleeves are set into the jacket with soft gathers to add a touch of a capped feel. Each sleeve is cut slightly wider at the top near the shoulder and is cut on a slight curve to follow the arm. There is a seam gathered at the very front of the waist under the flower which creates a little ruffled detail. Inside the jacket there is a built in waist stay to keep the jacket in place but it is only attached at the sides and front. This allows the silk to drape loose and soft across the back. It is quite a genius. The skirt is simple in shape but has its own wow factor. The waist is banded and there is an attached black satin tie to add a little detail. The jersey is all gathered into the waist and falls in a soft straight line to the knee depending on your height. Hidden pockets sit on each hip. This is a particularly wonderful example of how he combined strong tailoring with brilliant colour. Excellent overall condition with a note below
The jacket is lined in a shocking pink silk. The jacket hooks to closes under the flower pin and the inner waist stay also hooks to close. The jacket has its original hang tag. Light padding in the shoulders. I see some yellowing areas to the fabric lightly scattered over the surface and more apparent in the crook on one arm. Please see the photos after the label shot. The skirt zips to close at the side. Pockets on the each hip. The skirt has a numbered label and is hand finished throughout. It almost appears to be a couture piece. The jacket is tagged a vintage YSL 40
Jacket
Sleeves: 24" and 18" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 16"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Outer waist: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist stay: to 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 22" from neck to hem
Skirt
Waist: to 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hip: open
Total length: 23" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4707
Reference Photos: Spring 1990 Yves Saint Laurent Runway.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
valentino
Exquisite 1990s Valentino Heavily Beaded Black Silk Chiffon Dress w Draped Neckline & Bare Back
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This is an incredible dress and it has the added provenance of having been worn by poet Rupi Kaur to the South Asian Excellence at the Oscars Event for the 2024 Oscars season. I love that this gives you the chance to see the dress on the body and how beautifully it falls. The dress was made for the shops and dates to the 1998-2002 era based on similar cuts that I have had in the shop and what was on the runways. he dress is exceptional and you only have to take one look at Rupi in the dress to see just how fabulous this is on an actual body
This is a gorgeous dress. I love its bareness at the top with the full open back and the low draped neckline. It is a little sexier then some of his work tends so be but it still manages to feel elegant and refined. It is a dress that really comes alive on the body. It is very light and easy to wear despite its extensive bead work and sequins. It is cut to perfectly fit and skim over the body. It is made from a lightweight bias cut silk chiffon and a silk net that is then covered in thousands of little black sequins and various shaped beads. The bodice is cut into a halter with tiny little beaded straps that curve up and over the shoulders. At the back the straps cross over your bare back which then dips into a low curve across the small of your back. This leaves the back almost completely bare. The front also has a bare feel. The halter covers the breasts and then drapes low in between. There is no seam at the waist to break the line of the eye. The combination of wide bands of the sequin and beads highlight the curves and shape of the dress and those are separated by expanses of the black silk chiffon. The bias cut of the fabric simply curves it in and over you to create shape. The skirt flows to the floor and widens out just a touch as it nears the hem. I love the way that the skirt is cut a little longer at the back to give the feel of a slight train there. Mixed into the beaded pattern are little bits of black silk netting that add an extra bit of texture to the dress. It is a beautiful example of Mr Valentino's work with the added bonus of its recent red carpet provenance. Excellent condition with a minor note below
Fully lined in a black silk chiffon and closes with a back hidden zipper at the base of the scoop at the back. Hand finishes. There are some missing beads and some inner repairs / tiny beginnings of stress openings on the fabric near the ends of some of the lines of bead work on the train and bottom of the skirt. It was worn on the red carpet exactly as it is so these small flaws obviously have no impact when worn
Bust: 15-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 63" from top of shoulder to front hem, 68" to back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4632
Reference Photos: Rupi Kaur in this dress for the South Asian Excellence at the Oscars Event, 2024.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian lacroix
Softest Fall 1994 Christian Lacroix Runway Knit Printed Striped Slouchy Cardigan w Original Belt
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Christian LaCroix launched his Haute Couture house in 1987 and was an instant success on the worldwide stage. A ready-to-wear line soon followed along with perfumes and menswear. His collections are always exotic, lavish affairs and his designs seemed to span the decades with their eccentric glamour pulled from multiple sources of inspiration. The twin of this cardigan was shown on the fall 1994 runway and you can see how fantastic it is on the body. It's that perfect piece that walks the line between being easy and comfy and still glamorous.
This is a beautiful example of Christian's ready-to-wear work and it is made to be slightly oversized and easy to wear with an almost lounging robe feel to it in its cut. It is a piece that you can wear open and layered over other things or wrap and use the belt that comes with it or one of your own to have to feel more like a coat or to even be able to wear it on its own. It is made out of a mixed knit that is insanely soft to the touch and feels soft on the body so that it has the easy organic lines that you see. Everything about it is meant to convey ease and luxury. It has no closures and just slips on. The shoulders slope down and into those fabulously long ribbed cuffed sleeves. You can push the sleeves up, wear them long or roll them. The body of the cardigan is loose and generously cut. Pockets sit low on each hip and the collar has a wide shawl feel to it. The entire bottom is one in a ribbon to pick up the cuffs. It is gorgeous and once on, you won't want to take it off. Excellent condition.
Unlined with no closures but does come with its original twist tie belt. Tagged a size M but the loose and easy for will work on a large range of sizes. The smaller you are the more it will feel oversized.
Sleeves: 22" from he dropped shoulders
Dropped shoulders: 26"
Bust- hips: 29" flat across from side to side and narrows to about 23"at the ribbing
Length: 32" from neck to hem and hangs a bit longer once on the body
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-LRG
Item# DD4524
Reference Photo: Fall 1995 Christian Lacroix Runway.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Spectacular Spring 1992 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Look 47 Runway Dot & Embroidered Floral Pouf Dress
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This is a very rare dress that is the twin of the dress that walked the Yves Saint Laurent Spring 1992 Haute Couture runway. It is extremely well documented and I have included photos of the original sketch and swatches that I have here from the Saint Laurent couture archive book set that I own in addition to runway reference photos of it that we found. You can see just how fantastic it is on the body. This was Look 47 and part of the short evening segment of the collection.
This collection marked Yves' 30 year anniversary and it was presented on January 29 to coincide exactly with his first collection presented January 29, 1962. The book, Yves Saint Laurent Catwalk, notes that at the time people were expecting a retrospective but Yves actually surprised everyone by producing a full 91 piece collection. There was a definitive tribute aspect to his first 1962 collection. Flowers were a main motif and ran throughout the collection as did polka dots and stripes. Puff sleeve tops with balloons skirts were integral and dresses like this one were a key look. It is an exceptional to have such beautiful documentation on this stunning dress. Every piece of Saint Laurent Couture is a treasure but when it's as highly documented in from such an important collection as this, it is just that much more special.
The dress is exquisite. It is made from a combination of a white silk that has been hand embroidered with roses and leaves across the entire bodice. This is then combined with a silk faille skirt that has dots that appear to be hand painted onto the fabric. A silk organza bow is wrapped around the waist and I love the deeper mustard yellow tone of it. It perfectly offsets the black and white palette. The neckline is scooped across the front and the bodice is meant to skim over the body to the waist. The sleeves are fantastic and each insets into the bodice in a series of pleats across the top of the shoulders. This is what gives them the volume that you see. The edges of the neckline are finished with a black cord and this runs around the cuffs as well. Each cuff is brought into the arm with a button and loop and this bringing in at the arm also helps to exaggerate the puff above. The entire silk of the top is embroidered in this magical, dreamy, black rose embroidery that pops against the white of the silk. The embroidery is done onto the silk directly in some places and then in other places the leaves or roses have been cut out and hand stitched in place. The waist is seamed but it is more generously cut and the organza ribbon that circles it adds the perfect pop of color. Under that the skirt is fantastically full and the fulness is created by the pleats that are set into the waist and the way it has been wrapped in and under at the hem to attach to the skirt underneath. Between the those two layers of the skirt you can feel that there is tulle and some structure inside that helps hold that exaggerated shape. It is a fantastic magical piece of Haute Couture and an important piece from an important collection. Excellent condition with a note below.
The bodice is lined in an ivory silk and the sleeves are unlined. The belt at the waist is attached and wrapped and hooked into place. The skirt is lined in the same fabric as the outer skirt and there is stiffening between the layers as described above. It closes at the back with a button at the top of the neck and then there is a hidden set side zipper too close. The dress is unlabeled, but I have seen the original label that came with the dress. The dress had been let out at some point and my client had it brought back in and unfortunately when she had it altered back to its original size, the tailor lost the tag. I see some very minor evidence of that alteration on the bodice. There are some areas of stress near the embroidery and some minor reinforcements underneath the arms. I see slight dustiness on the fabric at the top the shoulders and there is a tiny chip on the button on one sleeve. Perhaps a slight grubbiness along the inner edge of the lining under the arm. The outside presents as clean and fresh and once on it looks immaculate.
Slightly inset shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Skirt: 18" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4509
Reference Photos: (1-3) Spring 1992 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture. / (4-6) From the book "Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: L'oeuvre Integral 1962-2002".
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
romeo gigli
Important 1990 Romeo Gigli One Off Haute Coutre Full Wedding Dress Set w Flower Filled Chiffon Coat & Accessories
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Every so often I am contacted by someone and entrusted with something very special and this wedding set by Romeo Gigli absolutely fits that bill. This incredible set is a one of a kind, Haute Couture made to measure piece that comes directly from its original owner and she has graciously given all of the original documentation on it to share with you along with a full write up on her experience with Romeo and a scan of the Elle article that was written a year after her wedding.
Romeo Gigli launched his label first in 1981 which failed. In 1983 he partnered with Carla Sozzani and in 1985 he presented a 25 piece collection in Milan. By 1986 he was an international sensation and his collections made world wide headlines. In 1989 he had his Paris debut. His work was romantic but dramatic. Hallmarks included shawl coats, which this set so perfectly displays, along with soft sloping shoulders and silhouettes that narrow as they come down the body. Historical references run through his work and his de-structured lines felt fresh and new.
This set has all of the original pieces that Marion wore on her wedding day and even includes the original boxes and silk bags that the set was delivered in. Every piece was made in studio by hand and when I tell you that my photos do not do the full set justice I have never been more honest as everything is more beautiful in person. This is a once in a life time opportunity to own this incredible and important piece of fashion history. The link to Marion's story is below and a short description of the pieces follows.
The wedding ensemble consists of a pale pink silk chiffon top, a gold lace hobble skirt and a deep gold silk jacket or top that was worn over those two pieces. An incredible silk chiffon coat that is filled with silk flowers and flows behind you in a knotted train was worn over that. The original pale taupe velvet shoes in their original box are present along with the hand made hair sticks and pins. The two original pink raw silk hand made bags that the skirt and tops were delivered in are included and the entire ensemble comes in its original raw silk covered box. The final piece included is the little hand held green silk bag that Marion carried that day.
The skirt and inner top are the base of the outfit. The top is slightly cropped and made from a pale dusty peach pink silk chiffon. The chiffon has been hand gathered into soft pleats and crosses itself over the front and back. It wraps around you and closes on one side, inside, with a series of silk covered buttons and then the other side wraps over that and closes at the back outside with buttons as well. The skirt is made out of fine gold lace and is banded around the waist for shape. It drapes softly over the body with volume through the hips created by the layers. It narrows down at the ankles for a touch of a hobble skirt in appearance with the ends curving up and under. It is an incredible design.
An oversized silk top goes over this that has a bit of volume through the body. It is made from a deep copper gold silk with a burnished finish. The sleeves are incredibly long and are meant to be gather along the arms and follow the cut and curve of them. The collar is very high and wired so that it stands and frames the face beautifully. One side is longer then the other and you can shape the wire to give it a quirky little curve in the direction and way that works best for you. I love the open cut out just under the collar. It hints at the silk chiffon top underneath and adds an unexpected flash of skin.
The coat is utterly remarkable. It is thoroughly Romeo Gigli in spirit and it is one of the most beautiful, magical things I have ever seen. It has those beautiful sloped shoulders he was known for and the front flips over into a deep shawl collar. It slips on over everything else with no front closures. It just falls over you in this exceptional drape of chiffon and flowers and then trails out behind you. The end has been knotted and I love this detail as it is absolutely Gigli at his best. The coat is made from a silk chiffon outer and inner layer that has a touch of transparency to it while inside and between the layers are thousands of silk flowers. Each would have been placed by hand one by one to form a solid layer of flowers that shows through the silk. It has weight yet it feels weightless. It has presence yet it feels ethereal. The top layer of the chiffon is a pale dusty pink and then the inner layer is a pale taupe. The flowers float between the two and it make this light rustling sound as it moves that it magical. It is one of the best things I have ever personally seen.
Finally are the accessories. Her original velvet shoes that slide on and then tie in place, the little green silk bag that is held by the tied straps and the various hand made hair and stick pins in their original box.
The entire set will be sent in it original box hand covered in a deep dusty pink raw silk as it came to Marion from the Gigli ateliers.
Everything is in superb condition. I see a teeny smudge of discoloration under the arms of the inner silk chiffon top and the wear to the soles of the shoes giving away the clue that it was worn that day. The silk on the large box it came in has more wear as seen in the photos
This is a once in a life time, absolutely remarkable piece of fashion history.
Inner top
Shoulders: no true seams
Bust: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 14" from top of shoulder to hem
Skirt
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 47" from waist to hem and including the 4" waist band
Outer top
Sleeves: 39" from the dropped shoulder seam and are around 11" arond after the dropped shoulder
Shoulders: 27" across and meant to drop significantly
Bust: 30" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 27" flat across from side seam to side seam and narrows to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam by the hem
Length: 41" from neck hem
Neck: 13" around
Coat
Is about 36" flat across the inner bust and it is about 120" long from the neck to end past the knot and not including the deep shawl collar. It is pretty much OSFA
Bag
Approx 9.5" tall and about 5-7" in diameter
Shoes
Approx a 40-41
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED for the inner outfit and the coat is OSFA
Item# DD4458
Reference Photos: Courtesy of Marion Hume. (1-2) Fitting with Romeo Gigli. / (3-7) On the wedding day.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian lacroix
Fall 1990 Christian Lacroix Haute Couture Silk Runway Backless Dress w Original Jewel Brooches
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The twin of this dress in a different colour walked the Fall 1990 runway and we have included the reference photos of that so that you can see just how fabulous this one is on the body. This dress also included the incredible and detailed brooches on both the front and back of the dress as it was presented on the runway. This dress is unlabeled but came to me directly from the original couture client from whom I have, and have had, several other Haute Couture pieces. She was fitted by Christian himself for the dress which makes it that much more special. It is a stunning example of his Haite Couture work during this time period.
The dress is made out of an iridescent silk taffeta that has a slight colour change to it depending on how the light hits it. It can go from a deep bronze to a more iridescent blue / purple tone. I love it. The sleeves are long and there is a row of five silk covered buttons at each wrist. The body of the dress is cut to skim over you. It is gathered at one side at the front with the first of two incredible jeweled brooches the dress came with. The brooch is hand made from a gold toned metal with large golden topaz glass crystals mixed with brilliant blue crystals. The neckline angles down and across your shoulder to leave one shoulder bare and exposed. At the back the neckline dips dramatically down into a deep open V that leaves your skin bare and exposed. The second huge jeweled brooch sits at the base of that. A panel of silk flares out dramatically to one side to create a half bow, half bustle feel. The interior of that panel has extra structure so that it stays perfectly in place. The skirt falls below that and depending in your height will sit at about the knee or just above. It is fabulous. Excellent condition with minor notes below
Fully lined in a black silk organza and closes with an elaborate mix of a zipper, snaps and hooks at the back. One panel loops through the other over that. There is fused strip of rubber ribbon along the inner neckline to hold it in place and this has degraded a touch here and there. One stone is missing at the bottom of the front brooch. The brooches are tacked into place at present but are removable and you can see little marks on the fabric under them where the pin has been pushed through in different places. There are a couple teeny pinhead snags on the fabric where the brooches have caught on the silk near the brooches. These are all very minor and mentioned for accuracy. Unlabeled. Sourced from the original couture client and Mr Lacroix has mentioned to me on insta that he remembers fitting her.
Sleeves: 19.5"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 36" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD3602
Reference Photos: Fall/Winter 1990 Christian Lacroix Haute Couture Runway.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Exceptional Spring 1991 Yves Saint Laurent Runway Vivid Printed One Shoulder Cotton Dress
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This dress is just exceptional. Its twin walked the runway that season and we found the barest second of it on the runway as the model walked back down the catwalk. We have included that little bit of film along with a couple of stills taken from the clip for you to see. They are not the best photos ever but we were still very happy to have confirmation that the twin of this one was indeed a runway piece. We also included an editorial shot from Marie Claire that season that shows a different piece from the show in the same fabric. This fabric in a variety of different colour ways was integral to the show and there was a an entire section of the show devoted to them. The dress is gorgeous and its so very rare to find these more exceptional YSL pieces anymore.
The dress is made from a feather light cotton voile that that has enough weight and structure to it to perfectly fall into the line that Yves desired it to have. The fabric has just a touch of transparency to it but at the same time the print and the way it wraps around you covers everything and perfectly the transparency feels like more of a suggestion of sensuality. I love the bold use of all those brilliant colors that covers the entire dress. The print is a stunning abstract and it is just a piece of art in itself. There is a soft strap that curves over one shoulder on an angle from the other side. Inside the bust there is a soft bodice piece built in that has a bit of boning for shape. This zips and hooks into place to hold the dress in place on you. The outer where is gathered in under the strap and then it falls over you to the floor. Part of the fabric at the waist wraps around and snaps in the place and this gives just a suggestion of shape there. The shape is soft as it falls over you and meant to have a bit if a sarong feel. It is cut to skim over the body loose and easy with the only fitted place being that inner built in bodice. The skirt wraps over itself and part of it is longer then the other. This does two things. First, when you walk or sit that opening will open a bit to show some leg and second it allows the skirt to the air and billow around you when you walk. I love that way it drapes around you at the top. It is fantastic on the body and really showcases his genius at both print and cut. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
Unlined and closes in the inner bodice with a zipper and flat hook and I as described above. The waist snaps and hooks in place. Light boning in the inner bodice. Tagged a vintage YSL 40.
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hooked waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: variable because of the wrap
Bodice: approx 15" from top of shoulder to inner hooked waist
Length: approx 50" from top of shoulder to shortest part of from hem and approx 67" to the longest point of the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4411
Reference Photos/Video: (1-4) Spring 1991 Yves Saint Laurent Runway. / (5) Yves Saint Laurent Editorial, Marie Claire, June 1991
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian lacroix
Prettiest Spring 1996 Christian Lacroix Haute Couture Runway Three Piece Set w Jewel Buttons
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The twin of this set walked the runway and was worn by none other then Carla Bruni. Which makes this suit that much more special. It also still has all three of its original pieces and I love that as well. Christian Lacroix launched his Haute Couture house in 1987 and his work was an instant worldwide sensation with the press declaring him to be the King of Couture. A ready-to-wear line soon followed along with perfumes and menswear. His collections were always exotic and lavish affairs. He drew his inspirations from across the decades and I doubt there was ever a more high glamour couturier. This suit with its supermodel tie-in is very special and a stunning example of his work during this time period. His couture pieces rarely come to market and I love having them in the shop when I can get them.
I love that this still has all three original pieces. It came to me with the jacket, skirt and the inner silk top that matches the lining of the jacket. Which is a very traditional Haute Couture detail. Having all three pieces makes it that much more versatile since you can mix and match all of pieces and wear them in so many different ways. The inner top is made of a silk with a abstract vertical wavy pattern in ivory, pale blue and pastel lavender. That exact same silk is used to line the jacket so when you wear the jacket open you get that incredible continuation of design. The skirt and the jacket are both made from a textured wool boucle with the skirt being a two-tone aqua and pale blue and the jacket picking up the lavender in the silk top. Unusual colour and pattern mixing was a forte of Lacroix and we see that beautifully in the suit. The jacket is stunning and every seam has been meticulously executed. The sleeves are long and the rounded shoulders have soft padding inside for a touch of structure. The seaming is set in curving lines to create the shape that you see and there are little boned Silk satin inserts at the front for shaping. That same silk details the inside of the collar runs across the top of the shoulder and along part of the edge of the split cuff sleeves. At the back he used that same fabric to gather and bring in the back of the jacket for shaping and add a pretty romantic detail with the bow. It snaps to close down the front with silk covered hidden set snaps. Buttons are sewn on the outside and each is a stunning jewel. Gold tone metal has been set with rhinestones crystals and turquoise. So even if you wear the jacket on its own or closed you get this stunning jewel detail there. The skirt is precisely and simply cut with that slight flare as it reaches the hem. The front panel wraps over which as a touch of detail and also leaves a hidden opening underneath so that when you sit or walk you get a tiny flash of leg. It is lined in an extremely high-quality pale blue silk. This is a stunning example of his work that will never go out of style and it is exceptional. The fact that it is true Haute Couture just makes it better and the workmanship is out of this world. Excellent condition.
Both the dress and the jacket are fully lined in silk described above. The top is made of a single layer of silk. Top closes with a hidden setbacks zipper and has ribbon finishing at the hem. The skirt closes with a side zipper and couture hook and eye at the waist. The jacket has hidden set snaps down the front. All three pieces are completely made by hand and have their proper Haute Couture tags present with sequential couture numbers under the tag.
Jacket
Sleeve: 21"
Shoulders: approx 15"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 19" from neck to back hem, 22" the longest points of the front hem
Top
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 21" from shoulder to hem
Skirt
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 21" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4391
Reference Photos/Video: Spring 1996 Christian Lacroix Runway, Look 4. Model Carla Bruni.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
geoffrey beene
Stunning c 1990 Geoffrey Beene Strapless Sequin Bodice & Floral Silk Taffeta Dress w Shawl
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Geoffrey Beene was one of the most awarded designers in the US. There is a currently an exhibit running of his work for the 2023 year titled MOVE: The Modern Cut of Geoffrey Beene. I wanted to share the exhibit notes because they sum his career so well saying 'At his core, Beene was a fashion rebel who ignored trends, instead preferring to design garments that began as geometric shapes and evolved into silhouettes that moved naturally with the human form. His intuitive understanding of the body informed fashions that were unparalleled in their combination of luxury, thoughtful design, and comfort. Beene’s colorful, imaginative creations have been recognized with many accolades, including eight Coty American Fashion Critics Awards and three Council of Fashion Designers of America Awards. His work has also been celebrated through various exhibitions at institutions across the nation.'
This was a favoured silhouette of Geoffrey Beene that he was doing primarily through the late 1980s and into the very early 1990s. When looking through some of the images from the exhibit on his work there were dresses with very similar cuts from the 1990 season. It is a very pretty dress and very striking once on. The bodice is strapless and then it is completely covered in overlapping glossy black sequins at the front. At the back it is the same silk taffeta as the rest of the dress and I love how part of that extends and wraps around to the front just under the bust. This is all attached and adds a beautiful detail that really reflects his work from this time period. The bodice is meant to be fitted and has light boning inside to hold it in place. The top of it dips in the center and peaks slightly on either side to emphasize the bust. The waist is nipped in and then from there the skirt is cut beautifully full to the hem. The silk is all gathered into the waist and this is what helps give it that shape that you see. I love the oversized floral print that covers the silk and how there are these little woven dots running over the very top of the silk. These catch the light differently and are also a subtle nod to his love if dots in his work. Inside there is a black silk lining and the edge of that lining is finished with a sequin detailed lace. This peaks out from below the curving hem of the skirt and ties all the elements of the dress together. The dress can be worn on its own or with the matching shawl piece that is original to the dress. This extra wide shawl is caught up at each end in an elaborate twisted fabric flower that anchors it and allows it to open between for the volume you see. It can be worn numerous ways and I have photoed some of those here. You could also wear it over the head for a very glamorous look. It is so pretty. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a fine black silk and closes with a back hidden set zipper. Ribbon finished hem. Light boning through the bodice. The shawl is unlined with no closures
Bust: 17-17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 10.5" from top to waist
Skirt: 36" from waist to longest points of hem
Shawl: 100" x 46.5"
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4353
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Extaordinary Fall 1990 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Look 126 Purple & Bronze Silk & Lace Dress
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This dress is from the Fall 1990 collection and came to me directly from the original couture client. In the book Yves Saint Laurent: Catwalk they said this of this collection; 'Yves Saint Laurent allowed himself to be truly audacious for this presentation of 137 designs. The Baroque style was evident in outfits were the a fairy tales.' Elle magazine summarized Saint Laurent's work as 'insouciance elevated to the rank of fine art.' .... and of the colours that he chose for the collection the New York Times noted that 'He works with a painter's eye, and the results are always satisfying, never soporific.' They also said that 'Lace is a cornerstone of evening dressing. Sometimes it is thick velvety guipure lace, sometimes spidery Chantilly. It never looks matronly.' This was one of the final dresses of the show and a beautiful example of all of those comments by the press. I am also very happy to have found the runway photo. With 137 looks shown finding this exact one from the handful of shots that are out there of the collection is almost miraculous. In addition to tall of that I have included a snap of the original sketch and fabric swatches from the boxed book set "Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: L'oeuvre Integral 1962-2002". The dress has so much structure and form to it but once on the body it sits just perfectly and transforms into something magical. It is an exceptional and well documented example of Laurent's Haute Couture work that he was doing during this time period.
A silk taffeta in a jeweled toned fuchsia sweeps across the top of the bodice and then extends down to form each sleeve. The fabric is gathered and ruched down the length of each arm. The shoulders are left bare to balance out the volume underneath and have that expanse of skin for a touch of sensuality. Under the fucshia is a wide band of a slightly metallic copper silk that goes from the top of the bust the the slightly dropped waist. The silk has been gathered along each side to create soft pleats that wrap around you. The skirt comes out from under that in a series of soft gathers that open up to allow it to be quite wide by the time it reaches the hem. The underskirt is made from a pale purple silk and that is covered in a top layer of French black lace. The lace is hand made and has a stunning floral design set within medallions. These are repeated throughout the lace to create the beautiful pattern that you see. I love that the bottom edge of the lace follows the curving shape of the design that is in the lace. To finish Yves wrapped a wide green silk ribbon around the waist. This unusual colour choice is spectacular when you see it all together and on the body. This is a spectacular example of his work and a piece you would only ever normally see in a museum. Excellent condition
Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk. There is a built in silk covered elastic that is attached and wired right between the breast for a slight bit of support and then that wraps around you and hooks to close. It closes with a side set zipper and has an inner waist stay that hooks to close. There is a series of snaps above the zipper that run under the arm seam. Each sleeve zips to close at the wrist. The exterior layer of the skirt closes with its own a hand set side zipper. The silk ribbon belt is tacked into place on either side of the waist. On the interior of the skirt at the inner waist the fabric has been folded down and it looks like it would be possible to lengthen the skirt from there by just about 4". It looks to have been worn very little if at all.
Sleeves: 20" from where they start off the shoulder
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of bodice to slightly dropped seam at the waist
Skirt: 38" from the slightly dropped seam at the waist to the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD3598
Reference Photos: (1) Fall 1990 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway Collection. / (2-3) From the book "Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: L'oeuvre Integral 1962-2002"
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
guy laroche
Rare Fall 1994 Guy Laroche Haute Couture Wide Sleeve High Low Dress w Cumberbund
I Have a Question
Guy Laroche began working for Jean Desses in 1949 and eventually launches his own Haute Couture label in 1957 as a full member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Parisienne. He became known for his color sense and the young, sexy look of his clothes. In 1985 he won the Haute Couture Golden Thimble award and two years later he was awarded the insignia of Chevalier de L’Ordre de la Legion d’Honneur. His second Golden Thimble was given posthumously after his death in 1989. Michel Klein took over the couture division where he remained until 1996. This dress is from Klein's tenure as the Haute Couture director and label and it is a beautiful example of the work he was doing during his tenure there. Laroche once was quoted as saying “It is my intention to try and adapt haute couture to modern requirements: to make dresses that are simple and chic.” and I feel that this dress tries to live up to that thought while still maintaining the feel of couture during this mid-nineties.
This is the type of piece that is so bold and edgy that you will only ever find it in a Haute Couture piece. I feel like whoever ordered this one had it tweaked slightly from the runway presentation and made it better. The bodice is scooped across on a more graceful line (I don't love how it fits Kirsty Hume who is the model in the photo) and the back skirt feels longer. They also eliminated the bow at the front, opting instead for a single long panel falling at the back that matches the colour and fabric of the skirt. These small details add up to a big difference in how it presents. I also feel that the fit overall is far better then how it appears on the runway. It makes me wonder if there was a last minute substitution of the model for this piece, because in person the dress that I have here is a far better cut and fit overall then how it looks like in the runway shot. The dress is a mini dress that has an attached long panel on the skirt that wraps part way around you to leave the full front open under the mini skirt. The bodice is scooped wide and low at the front and made from a pale taupe silk. It extends down past the waist so a very short mini skirt that has a slight flare to it as it reaches the hem. The long skirt wraps around and is attached at the side of the waist. It is a soft olive toned green and done on that same rich heavy silk that has a slight satin finish. It falls to the floor in a long smooth drape of fabric. A wide silk cummerbund wraps around the waist to give shape. This narrows down at one end and hooks into place under a long swooping gold brooch which I believe is gold plated. The cummerbund has a long panel attached at the back and I have left it hanging as an extra panel. You could probably be clever and wrap /tie it to create a bow effect if you wished to emulate the runway photo more. The darkness of the sash around the waist is then picked up by the spectacular sleeves. Each is made out of a deep blue-black silk chiffon and are cut extra long. They are also cut wide and full to fall at an angle at the end of each sleeve. This bit of softness and transparency the sleeves have contrast sharply to the rich silk the rest of the dress is made from. It is a very unusual dress and shows the experimental side of couture. This is one of those dresses that when the right person wears it, it is going to blow people away. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
Fully lined in hand set silk that matches the colour of the exterior silk that is being lined. The sleeves are unlined. The dress closes with a hand set hidden back zipper and then there is another zipper that closes the inner mini skirt. The sash at the waist wraps and hooks into place. The brooch is detachable and shows sight patina on the gold. Proper couture label present. The dress is entirely made by hand to Haute Couture standards. The inner silk of the long skirt is scuffed near the hem and I see slight grubbiness along the hem on parts. Please see the shot after the label photo.
Sleeves: 34" to the longest point
Inset shoulders: 12"
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Mini dress length: 31" from top of shoulder to hem
Full Length: 60" from shoulder to longest point of the hem
Waist sash: 26.5" in length to where the hooks presently sit with an extension past that that wraps and hooks into place
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4012
Reference Photo: Fall 1994 Guy Laroche Haute Couture Runway Collection on Kirsty Hume.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
I Have a Question
This Chanel hat is from the Fall of 1996 and it is gorgeous. I found a editorial shot of Stella Tenant wearing a version of it that was shot by Karl himself. The hat is so dramatic and easy to wear. It is meant to sit lightly on the top of the head and then you can play with which direction you want the feathers to face. It can be worn with the feathers towards the front, either side, or to the back and sit as high or low as you want. This gives it so much versatility in styling it and the feel of it completely changes depends on how you place it on your head. It has its original attached comb in place. The feathers are full and glossy. It is stunning. Excellent condition
Secures to the head with a comb. The base is a black felt wool. Because of the half hat / cap design is should fit any size head. Each side of the triangle shape measures about 8" long.
Item# A339
Reference Photo: Stella Tennant by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel Fall 1996.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.