The Nina Ricci Haute Couture house was founded in 1932, at 20 Rue de Capucines in Paris and became one of the most famous couture ateliers in the world. In 1954, Jules-François Crahay, Madame Ricci’s design assistant, was appointed the Artistic Director. The house’s style became more structured under his tenure and the signature curves of the Ricci silhouette elongated and became more modern in feel. Designer Gérard Pipart then succeeded Jules-François Crahay in 1964. Throughout the following three decades, Pipart's Haute Couture aesthetic celebrated a more flamboyant, bold woman and his ready-to-wear found a loyal following among the most stylish women of the day. This coat is an early example of Pipart's work for the house and is beautiful. I have dated it to 1965 based on the reference photos included here showing similar pieces from that season. It is exceptional and absolutely beautiful.
This coat came out of an estate of an extremely wealthy woman who was a regular couture client during the 1960s. For the 1965 collection Gérard Pipart debuted the side button closure that featured large button closures off to one side. A cloth version of this design was photoed on Jean Shrimpton for Harper's Bazaar that year. I also found a reference photo for a similar all fur version. The coat I have for you is a wonderful combination of the two. The exterior is a quilted silk brocade done in a chic and stunning ivory. The fabric that was chosen for this coat is especially beautiful. It has a 3D puffed effect that is not just created by the stitching around the pattern in the silk that you normally see. Rather, different weights and thicknesses of thread have been woven into the fabric to create the design that you see. The interior of the coat is lined an ivory sheepskin that makes it warm and cozy. The design of the coat has been centered around simple but structured lines. The front wraps over itself and buttons with one large silk covered button near the side seam. All of the edges of the coat have been detailed and finished with a thick padded piping in the same fabric. This piping detail runs down the front, around the hem and circles around the end of each sleeve. Pockets lie along the seam on each side. The construction is at a Couture level of course and it is an absolutely stunning coat. This is a beautiful example of how refined true Haute Couture can be anode Pipart's work during this time period. Excellent condition with a note to review below.
The coat closes with the button at the front and there is a button and loop on the interior. The entire coat is lined in sheepskin. Finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely done by hand. Pockets along the seam. I see some fraying to the fabric around the back collar. There is a small mark on the back of one shoulder and a touch a a watermark on the silk of the other shoulder. Please see the photos after the shot of the label. The easy cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes.
Bust: to 24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist-hips: 24" flat across from side seam to side seam and gently widens out
Length: 38" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Reference photos: Jean Shrimpton in Nina Ricci for Harper's Bazaar 1965, Avedon; Brigitte Bauer in Nina Ricci for Vogue 1965, William Klien. Historical info on the house verbatim from the Nina Ricci website.
I have a small collection of historically important, key designer labelled vintage furs, fur trimmed & feather pieces stored away in my archives that I will be slowly posting on the site over the next couple of years until I have none left. I will no longer be buying furs for the shop moving forward and have not purchased anything for several years now. I feel like times have changed and while there still is a place for vintage furs for some, including collectors and historians, many modern girls are choosing other options. Many of the pieces in my collection are representative of the designer during a set time period in history that was different then our modern outlook. I have decided that the best course to handle this controversial issue is to let the pieces I have go rather then sit in a cold storage unit. All fur coats, fur trimmed & feather pieces are final sale
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.