The Nina Ricci Haute Couture house was founded in 1932, at 20 Rue de Capucines in Paris and became one of the most famous couture ateliers in the world. In 1954, Jules-François Crahay, Madame Ricci’s design assistant, succeeded her as Artistic Director. The house’s style became more structured. The signature curves of its silhouette elongated. Designer Gérard Pipart then succeeded Jules-François Crahay in 1964. Throughout the following three decades, his Haute Couture vision celebrated a more flamboyant, bold woman and his ready-to-wear found a loyal following among the most stylish women of the day. This coat is an early example of Pipart's work foe the house and is beautiful.
This coat came out of an estate of an extremely wealthy woman who was a regular couture client during the 1960s. For the 1965 collection Gérard Pipart debuted the side button closure that featured large button closures off to one side, a cloth version of which was photoed on Jean Shrimpton for Harper's Bazaar that year. I also found a reference photo for a similar all fur version. The coat I have here is a wonderful combination of the two. The exterior is a quilted silk that is dyed to a stunning ivory. The fabric is especially beautiful. It has a 3D puff effect that is not just created by the stitching around the pattern in the silk that you normally see. Rather, different weights and thicknesses of thread have been woven into the fabric to create the design. The interior of the coat is lined a creamy colored sheepskin that makes it warm and cozy. The design of the coat has been centered around simple but structured lines. The front wraps over itself and buttons with one large silk covered button near the arm. The edges of the coat are detailed with a thick padded piping that runs along the front, around the hem and circles around the end of each sleeve. Pockets lie along the seam on each side. It is immaculate in its construction and an absolutely stunning coat. A beautiful example of how refined true Haute Couture can be. Excellent condition with one note to review below.
The coat closes with the button at the front and there is a button and loop to hold it perfectly in pace on the interior as well. The entire coat is lined in sheepskin. Finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely done by hand. It appears to have been worn very little. Pockets along the seam. I see a very small amount of fraying to the fabric around the back collar. Please review the photo after the shpt of the label. The easy cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes.
Bust: to 24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist-hips: 24" flat across from side seam to side seam and gently widens out
Length: 38" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Reference photos: Jean Shrimpton in Nina Ricci for Harper's Bazaar 1965, Avedon; Brigitte Bauer in Nina Ricci for Vogue 1965, William Klien. Historical info on the house verbatim from the Nina Ricci website.
I have a small collection of historically important, key designer labelled vintage furs, fur trimmed & feather pieces stored away in my archives that I will be slowly posting on the site over the next couple of years until I have none left. I will no longer be buying furs for the shop moving forward and have not purchased anything for several years now. I feel like times have changed and while there still is a place for vintage furs for some, including collectors and historians, many modern girls are choosing other options. Many of the pieces in my collection are representative of the designer during a set time period in history that was different then our modern outlook. I have decided that the best course to handle this controversial issue is to let the pieces I have go rather then sit in a cold storage unit. All fur coats, fur trimmed & feather pieces are final sale
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
The pieces with the Haute Coutue boutique label were ready to wear but would have been made in-house. They were wonderfully finished and could be considered to be demi-couture. They often used proprietary fabrics and the dresses were made to order for their clients. This partially dress is extra special because it was the dress chosen for the ad campaign that year. Which also gives you a great idea of what it looks like on.
This one is a stunning strapless dress made from a silk taffeta. This fabric choice really allows the ruffles and tiers to have some volume and retain their shape to give the effect that you see in the photos. The inner dress is very These fitted and meant to hug your curves. The waist is nipped in with a wide band of the same fabric gathered in soft pleats. This curves down into an interior fitted skirt that has two spectacular tiers of silk taffeta set facing downwards so that they come off the inner skirt and create shape and volume. The bodice is strapless and inside there is a built in corset. Over this is yet another shaped and formed panel of silk that opens upwards and towards the face. I love the way it is entirely constructed to emphasize the hourglass silhouette and show miles of leg. The print on the silk is beautiful. It is an abstract floral feeling design done in a combination of purple, pink, blue and teal. Its gorgeous and very flattering on. Excellent condition.
The dress is fully lined in a blue tissue silk. It has an internal built in, boned corset. It closes with two separate zippers an internal one that zips up the inner corset and then the exterior dress zipper over that. Interior waist stay made of grosgrain ribbon that closes with hook & eye. Hand finished.
Bust: 16" from side seam to side seam with A-small B cup room built in
Waist: 12.5" from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across the back from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 12.5" from top of bodice to dropped waist line
Skirt: 17" from dropped waist line to bottom tier
Modern Sizing equivalent: XS-SML
Reference Photos: Nina Ricci Ad, Vogue, February 1987.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival