malcolm starr
Amazing 1960s Malcolm Starr by Elinor Simmons Red & Gold Thread Dress w Sequin, Beading & Crystal Detailing
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This is one of two remarkable dresses that I have today that are absolutely insane to see in real life. Each is so very good and they are not even photoing half as good as either is in person. The sheer amount of hand work to apply those thousands of sequins, crystals and beads needs to be seen in person to truly appreciate. This is one of those pieces that really showcases the higher end work that the label was capable of. The dress is the work of Elinor Simmons who designed for the Malcolm Starr label from the early 1960s to 1972. She excelled at these early heavily embellished pieces that the label became known for and this is an outstanding example of that. It is even more amazing in person and the photos cannot convey the impact and presence it has. It is gorgeous
The fabric on this dress is gorgeous and you would never see its equivalent in modern fashion unless you are looking at a couture piece. The base fabric is a red silk brocade that has a heavy shot of gold metallic thread running through it that gives the dress its golden glow from shoulder to hem. The bodice skims over the bust and the neck is cut into a curving V at the front. The back also curves into a V and it dips lower for a bare expanse of skin to show. The waist is seamed and set a touch higher under the bust. From there the skirt falls to the floor and widens out as it nears the hem to perfectly balance the shape of the bodice. The simplicity of the shape is what allows the extraordinary detailing that sits on top of the brocade to shine. Onto the red and gold thread silk brocade are thousands upon thousands of tiny silver sequins, gold beads, glass tube beads, paillettes, and pink and red glass prong set crystals that have all been applied by hand. These cover every square inch of the dress and give the dress an incredible 3D feel and shine. The hand work was all done in the British crown colony of Hong Kong, which, during this period of time, was doing some of the best hand work on the planet. The dress has weight to it but it is balanced so perfectly that it is not too heavy once on the body. It just feels like you are wearing something of substance and beauty. The entire dress has a beautiful and subtle shimmer from every angle. I love it. It is just a beautiful dress that showcases just how good hand work and detailing can be. Excellent condition.
Fully interfaced in a red cotton muslin to hold the weight of the bead work and then lined in a silky rayon through the bodice and a red silk through the skirt. It zips to close at the back. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. I see the tiniest bit of grubbiness along the inner edge of one arm. Ribbon edged inner hem and hand finishes.
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under the bust: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 11" from top of shoulder to the seam under the bust
Total length: 54" from top of shoulder to hem with about 3.25" turned under
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4867
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This is a gorgeous little knit dress from the Fall 1997 Galliano collection that I believe was made for the shops. It is a dress that really showcases his quirkiness in design and how he loved to use different elements to create something new.
The dress is made out of a fine knit in a deep burgundy red. Through the body of the dress it has a pleated detail that runs vertically. The knit then has a ribbed detail that runs horizontally and the two together create a bit of a thatched effect through the main body of the dress. The top of the dress is made of two attached pieces that are done in a slightly smoother knit and this is where you can see his creativity. Inside the bodice there is a little halter top with ties that run behind the neck to tie in the place. Then attached along the seam underneath that is a knit panel that extends out into long ties. I have shown it tied a couple of different ways here and I think that if you use your imagination you can come up with even more. The back is scooped low so no matter how are you tied the panel you end up with an expanse of skin showing there. This is a great dress that you can layer underneath other things for that perfect little pop of Galliano in your wardrobe. Depending on your height this will be a full length or around the mid-calf. Excellent condition.
Unlined and slips on to wear with no closures. The halter ties behind the neck and the attached panel also ties in place. Tagged a vintage Galliano medium. The fabric does have some stretch so I put the comfortable range when laying flat.
Bust: each triangle covers approximately 7" flat across from side to side
Seam under the bust: 12-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 14-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 9-10" from neck to the seam under the bust
Total length: approx 54" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4845
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This spectacular dress is the twin of the dress that was worn by Linda Evangelista for the Fall 1994 Karl Lagerfeld runway show. It also has the added provenance of being photoed for British Vogue that November. The dress is from Karl Lagerfeld's own label. He launched his self-named label in 1984 and this dress is from 1991 making it a fairly early example of the work he was doing for his own label. Pieces from his personal label were far edgier then the work he did for Chanel. It was a label where he explored a more avant garde feel with his designs and pushed the envelope more. I just had this dress in the shop recently in a larger size, and I was pleased to have another one in a smaller size come in so quickly. This is a fantastic example of his work for that label.
This is a dress that is easy to wear and very sexy. On the runway Linda was styled with it falling completely off the shoulder and you can wear it like that or have that side sit up more on the actual shoulder. The edge of the neckline is cut on a angle that goes across and down to expose a bare expanse of skin. The shoulders are soft and the sleeves are cut to be a little extra long. At the ends of each sleeve they are finished off at angle that comes down and over the hand. The fabric is a cut velvet set in little rows over a bias cut chiffon base. The colour is a deep burgundy red that is flattering on most skin tones. It skims over the bust, waist and hips and I love how the rows are set on an angle to create the illusion of extra length. The hem follows the dip of the neckline with the skirt falling all the way to the floor on the one side and then coming up to about the knee area depending on your height on the other. It is fantastic and I love the tie in to Linda. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a silk mix chiffon and slips on the wear. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Tagged a vintage KL 38
Sleeves: 29" and 12" around the upper arm
Slightly dropped shoulders: 16"
Bust: 15-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 16-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 63" from top of shoulder to longest point of hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4844
Reference Photos/Video: (1-3) Fall 1994 Karl Lagerfeld Runway. Model Linda Evangelista. / (4) Vogue UK, November 1994.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
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Ages ago we had a dress in the shop that was similar to this one in many ways and we have included the reference photo from that one that is of a Halston dress shot for Vogue in 1974. On the dress we had, the ruffles were set more towards the back of the neck and on this one they come all the way around, but I believe that this one is from about the same time period, if not the same collection.
Halston was a master at combining function and ease but without sacrificing glamour. His bias cut pieces, like this one, sometimes feel somewhat shapeless on the hanger or on a dress form and it is only when they are on a body that they drape and settle into place the way they were intended. They seem so very simple but they are not. The dress is entirely cut on the bias with that minimal seaming signature that he was famous for. The colour is a beautiful deep blood red that is flattering on most skin tones. It is feather light and it weighs ounces once it is on. it comes with its original slip under dress and I love that because it is like you are getting two dresses in one. The under dress is backed in its own layers of a nude silk chiffon and you could wear the dress on its own as a slip dress. Popping the outer dress over it gives you the full on look and then you could also wear the outer dress over a different coloured slip to get a different feel. It is one of those dresses that gives you lots of styling options. The cut through the body of the outer dress is extremely loose and easy. There is an elastic at the waist and it allows you to wear the dress longer with the elastic more to the top of the hips, or you can pull it up to shorten the length and make it more of a day piece. The neckline is ruffled and it has a silk chiffon pipe length running through it that ties at the front. This lets you wear it more wide and off of the shoulders or you can wear it more closed and around the neck. Each sleeve is soft and full and end with a ruffle finish. The skirt is full and open. The matching inner silk dress is cut on the bias and it slips over the head and is suspended from nude silk chiffon straps. If worn more down, the dress will land between full length and ankle length, depending on your height. If pulled up at the waist, the length pulls up more to land between knee and calf. It is gorgeous and so versatile. Excellent condition
The outer dress is a single layer of silk chiffon and the separate inner slip dress has two layers of bias cut nude silk chiffon under the top red layer. Both pieces slip over the head to wear. The outer dress ties at the neck and has elastic at the waist. Each cuff is finished with elastic above the ruffled ends. Hand finishes.
Outer dress
Sleeves: approx 29"
Shoulders: no defined seams
Bust: to 18-24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 10-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: to 17" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 57" from top of shoulder to hem
Inner slip dress
Bust: 13-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist-hips: open
Total length: 57" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4831
Reference Photo: Model wearing Halston. Photo by Richard Avedon. Vogue US, December 1974.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
bill blass
Incredible Fall 1979 Bill Blass Couture Red Silk Chiffon Dress w Gold Sequins & Mink Cuffs
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I have had the twin of this dress in the shop a few years ago and I was very pleased to find another. Since we have had that original dress we happened to find the runway photo of the dress firmly dating it to Fall 1979. A similar version of this dress was worn by Slim Keith to attend the Met Museum Gala that year. We have also included a couple of shots of me in the one we had previously to give you an idea of how it is on. And a note to those who prefer not to wear fur; you could always un-tack and remove the sleeves and replace them with a faux version, feathers or anything you could imagine, or leave them without as Slim did and just store the cuffs for archival purposes.
This dress is one of the best that he ever made. The dress has elements of his work that he would touch on continuously over the coming decades. It is also a wonderful example of just how sophisticated and glamorous he could be. The silk chiffon used for the base is feather light and it has a fine gold, metallic lurex thread that is woven through the silk to create vertical stripes. Hand applied gold sequins were then added to follow those gold threads. The sequins catch the light beautifully and add another dimension and texture to the dress. There is a subtle leaf print that runs through the silk and this adds a beautiful and subtle extra feel. The upper part of the skirt is the same deep red as the bodice of the dress and then that leaf print gradually becomes more dense until it forms a solid soft brown around the lower hem. There is a slit up the front to let you walk. The dress has a nod to the 1930s in its cut but he has exaggerated some of the elements to keep it modern. The bodice crosses over itself and there is a built in brown silk under piece so that you can wear the dress and not have it completely transparent. On the bodice there are no sequins and this is deliberate to keep it lighter in feel. The sleeves extend directly out from the bodice and they narrow down as they reach the cuff. The cuffs are both finished with a 7" band of fur that is either a mink or a sable. It is gorgeous. Excellent condition.
The dress has an attached inner brown silk chiffon slip that snaps to close at the back and then the dress zips to close over that. An inner waist stay inside hooks to close. Hand finished and hand set sequins. All hand finished to demi-couture standards. The cuffs have perhaps the very slightest of wear to the edges and are soft and supple.
Sleeves: 24" approx.
Shoulders: no defined seam
Inner bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 17" from the top of the shoulder to waist but will come up a bit once on
Total length: 60" from the top of the shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4829
Reference Photos: (1) Fall 1979 Bill Blass. / (2-3) Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon. / (4) Socialite Slim Keith in Bill Blass (left) at the Metropolitan Museum of Art Gala in New York City, 1979.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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SixThis is an incredible and very rare set by Rifat Ozbek. The original Ozbek label was only produced from 1984 to 1991 and pieces are very hard to find, never mind finding a full three piece set like this. Versions of this set were seen on the runway and for US Vogue that season. It is incredible.
The suit is three pieces; a cropped jacket, a skirt and a bra top. The jacket is a burgundy and cropped to above the natural waist. It has no closures and a neat collar. The shoulders have a tiny bit of shape but are cut to slope down to the sleeve. The sleeves are kept simple. The skirt is very high-waisted so that it comes up to meet the jacket. It curves out and over the hips and then flares out at the hem. The front of the skirt is cut several inches shorter than the back so that you get this gorgeous little kick when you walk. Yellow embroidery runs down either side of the hip on both the front and the back. The final piece is that phenomenal bra top. Its base is the same burgundy as the other two pieces and then the cups of the bra have been covered in a thick gold cording. Two tones of gold cording have been used. One is a more black based gold and the other is brighter. The darker cord covers the majority of each cup and then the brighter is set at the upper edge of each cup and in a row across them. The straps are a leopard print and then gold toned coins on a little chains are set all along the bottom of the bra. These gold coins became one of his signatures. It is just a phenomenal and rare piece of vintage. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
All three pieces are lined in a burgundy lining. The jacket has no closures and just slips on to wear. I see a small amount of very minor changing colour / grubbiness on the top of the shoulders. The skirt closes with a side zipper and the bra closes with a hook clasp at the back. It has under-wiring and slight padding on the cups. The jacket and bra are tagged an IT40, FR36, GB8, US6 and the skirt is tagged in IT42,FR38, GB10, US8.
Jacket
Sleeves: 20.5" and 13" around the upper arm
Dropped shoulders: 17.5"
Bust: approx to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: approx to 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 15.5" from waist to hem
Skirt
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 28" from waist to front hem, 36.5" to the longest point of the back hem
Bra Top
Bust: 26-29" from end to end with some stretch near the closure
Cups: Appox A-B
Height: approx 11.5" from top of the strap to bottom edge
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4822
Reference Photos: (1-2) Fall 1989 Rifat Ozbek Runway. / (3) Kara Young in Rifat Ozbek. Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier for USVogue, October 1989.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
roberto cavalli
Amazing Spring 2003 Roberto Cavalli Printed Silk Lace Up Corset with Metal Stays & Hook Front
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Here we have one of the most wanted pieces of vintage that you can find - one of Roberto Cavalli's iconic corsets. The ones from 2003 to 2005 seem to be the ones that everyone wants the most and I love that I have this one in its coral and ivory print. Bella Hadid was recently spotted wearing a yellow one from this collection and versions were shown on the runway and for the ad campaign that season. I love how the print add a fantastic pop of colour and this coral print is especially fantastic. The corset has inner metal stays at the front where it hooks to close, down the sides, and on either side of the laces. These are encases in the same silk as the rest of the corset and I love how he set the pattern in a different direction where it goes over top of the inner boning. It gives it the perfect amount of emphasis to where the stays are placed. To wear it the corset, you hook it at the front and then you can adjust the laces at the back for the perfect fit. I love the way it is cut on a curve on both the top and the bottom so that it fits perfectly over you and creates that sexy hourglass shape. You can pop this over almost anything to add a little amazing bit of Cavalli sexiness. Excellent condition
Unlined and closes with the five metal hooks at the front and then you adjust the fit with the laces at the back. I see a touch of very minor wear to the fabric at the end of the stays here and there and there are two tiny areas that look like they added a couple of stitches along a seam. In addition to the Cavalli label there is a hand written tag inside.
Note that I have measured this one laying open from end with the laces tightened as you see it on the mannequin. It might be able to go down a touch more through the waist and you could open the laces as much as you needed.
Top seam: 25" flat across from end to end with the laces tightened to wear their it shown on the dress form. You can adjust upwards from there by loosening the laces as needed.
Waist: 22"flat across from end to end with the laces tightened to wear their it shown on the dress form. You can adjust upwards from there by loosening the laces as needed.
Bottom seam: 28.5" flat across from end to end with the laces tightened to wear their it shown on the dress form. You can adjust upwards from there by loosening the laces as needed.
Height: 10.25" at the laces, 11" at the hooks
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4791
Reference Photos: (1-4) Spring 2003 Roberto Cavalli, Look 16 & 23. / (5) Kamila Szczawinska for Roberto Cavalli Spring 2003 Ad Campaign. / (6-7) Bella Hadid in Roberto Cavalli at her Orabella launch, May 2024.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Important Spring 2008 Christian Dior by John Galliano Runway Look 53 Red Silk Strapless Dress
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This spectacular piece is one of the best dresses from the Spring 2008 collection. Its twin walk the runway for Look 53. The Spring 2008 collection has some extra importance in the labels history because it marked Dior's 60th anniversary and it was John Galliano's 10th year with the label. He celebrated with a show that was a nod to Old Hollywood glamour. The result was a collection that was filled with beautiful things that were wait-listed for worldwide. This dress was also produced in a black for the shops and both versions were produced in very limited quantities. I am very pleased to have such an exceptional example of his work for you. You just need to see the runway reference photos here and the video of it on and walking to see how amazing this one is.
The dress is made out of red silk that has a touch more weight to it. John often chose this weight of silk because of the control it gave him with his signature draping and the angled and curved seam work that he loved to do. All of the pieces that make up the dress have been completely cut on the bias. The dress is strapless with an inner boned and cupped corset that holds the dress in place. Silk panels have been draped over the inner corset, gathered and hand stitched into place to create the dramatic sweeping detailing you see at the front. At the back he gathered all of the fabric down and into the centre line to meet in a little peak at the centre of the waist. From there his signature bias cut allows the dress to skim and drape over you so that is shows every curve but is not overly fitted. As in many of his pieces the seaming has the feel of the work you see from the twenties and thirties. The fabric has been pieced together with low dropped angled panels to create the widening of the lower skirt. It flares out at the bottom and at the back it is cut longer so that you get a touch of a sweeping feel behind you as you walk. It is an incredible feat of patterning. A row of signature tightly spaced buttons & loops in the same silk run up one side. The dress is even better in person and on the body. John's pieces only truly come to life when worn. It is an incredible example of his work and looks to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a red silk and closes at the side with a series of silk covered buttons. The inner corset hooks to close with two rows of hooks to choose from. It is boned and cupped. It is made out of lingerie netting and does have some stretch. The hips also have range because the silk is biased cut so I have given the comfortable ranges below when the dresses lay flat. I see a teeny tiny darkened spot near the hem. Hand finishes.
Inner bust: 16-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 13-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18-22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 55" from top of the bodice to front hem, 60" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4772
Reference Photos/Video: (1-4) Spring 2008 Christian Dior, Look 53. Model Morgane Dubled. / (5) Aishwarya at the IIFA 2008. / (6) Lucy at the People's Choice Awards, 2024.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
givenchy
Dreamy Resort 2019 Givenchy by Clare Waight Keller Red Silk Dress w Sequins & Floor Length Sleeves
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This was Look 54 of the Resort collection and one of the best of the evening pieces from that collection. It was shown in black for the collection presentation and then it was also produced in this spectacular red version. I love Clare Waight Keller's time as Creative Director for Givenchy and even though her time there was short her work was wonderful. She designed many beautiful dresses during her time at the label and this is one of them. It is a show stopper. The fact that it is easy to wear is just bonus.
Clare said of the collection that year “There’s a powerful woman in there that I really love; she’s a very strong character who loves a strong shape—something that gives a real sense of fashion.”, and in the Vogue review of the resort collection, fashion journalist Amy Verner mentioned the black version of the dress in particular along with another comment from Clare; "This marks the first season since the passing of Monsieur de Givenchy in March and Waight Keller hinted that a more intentioned homage might be forthcoming. In the meantime, the collection’s evening looks—specifically the long-sleeved black dress showered with silver embroidery, and the gradient celadon and rust plissé lamé gown—further the couture spirit we’ve seen most recently at the Met Gala and at Cannes. “It’s a real joy to be able to work at both ends of the spectrum,” Keller said. “It’s what I believe in: everything from the really simple everyday to the absolutely fantastic and fabulous.”
The dress is amazing. It is made out of a light weight red silk crepe through the body of the dress and then it is finished with a lighter weight red silk for the inset on the lower skirt and feather light silk chiffon for those amazing sleeves. The red colour is gorgeous and it is that perfect red that will flatter most skin tones. The neckline is scooped high at the front and flat laying sequins add detail and some subtle sparkle to catch the light. The dress has a bit of a caftan feel to it and it is cut so that it skims over your bust, waist and hips. From there it falls to the floor and widens out quite a bit by the time it reaches the hem. The sequins on the bodice are set in vertical rows and each sequin is topped with a tiny round red seed bead. These run down from the shoulder to come to a point at the front. The very lower part of the skirt is a silk panel that runs across the full front of the skirt and is set on an upward angle. This perfectly balances out that downward angle of the sequins at the neckline. The sleeves are the star of the show. A silk chiffon caped sleeve falls over your arms from the shoulder and widens out to cascade all the way to slightly past the hem. They are open underneath which creates tremendous movement when you move. The slightest bit of air lets them billow around and behind you. It is the perfect touch of drama for the dress. The dress appears to have never been worn and it is in its original extra long supermodel length. It is absolutely amazing and it originally retailed at just under the 9k mark. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a red silk and closes at the back with a hidden set zipper. The dress is in its original length and appears to have never been worn.
Sleeves: 63"
Slightly inset shoulders: 13"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 60" from neck to longest point of the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4378
Reference Photos: (1) Resort 2019 Givenchy, Look 54. / (2) Credit unknown.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
lanvin
Amazing c.1971-1972 Lanvin by Jules-Francois Crahay Floral Printed Backless Halter Dress
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This dress was designed by Belgian-born Jules-Francois Crahay, who headed the Lanvin ateliers from 1964-1984. He has been noted as one of fashion’s 'great colorists with his colorful patterns making his 1970s Lanvin designs hugely desirable and influential.' His time at the Lanvin label is one of my personal favourites for the house. I especially love the his work during the period through the late sixties and into the early 1970s. He was a genius at print and colour and he pushed the envelope in terms of using cutting edge fabrics available during this time period. He mainly used this type of fabric for his 1971-1972 collections and in the book on his work 'Jules Francois Crahay" by Lannoo there is a detail photo of a couture fabric noted as been most likely from the fall 1971 Couture collection and you can see it has the same weave as this one. I love it.
This Lanvin dress is gorgeous. I am in absolute love with it. The dress has a gorgeous bright colour and print combination. The cotton pique it is made of is light in weight and holds colour exceptionally well so the colours are still crisp, bright and true. It has a beautiful texture running through it that adds visual interest and structure to the fabric so that it holds the intended shape. The front halter is created by two triangles that extend and curve up and behind the neck. They meet at the top of a wide band that defines the waist starting just under the bust. This leaves the back completely bare and open for a bit of a sexy feel to the dress. The band that gives the dress the shape is a full 5 1/2 inches wide. From there the skirt falls to the floor and it widens as it nears the hem. I love how the pattern is laid out onto the dress to emphasize the different parts of it. The halter has the smaller floral pattern and then the waist has stripes that are set just under the bust. You see the smaller floral anchored with stripes around the hips and then a giant floral pattern wraps around your legs. A double stripe anchors the whole dress at the hem and ties everything together. The colour is a coral red with those pops of yellow, green and soft orange. The pattern is spectacular and it is an instantly recognizable piece of his work. The perfect finish is the top set pockets that sit on each hip. I love it. Excellent condition
Fully lined through the band of the waist and the skirt in an orange silk and the halter top is unlined. It closes with a low set back zipper.
Bust: each halter covers approx 7" flat across from side to side
Seam at the top of the band: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist seam at the bottom of the band: 13.75" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 10" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 13" from neck to top of the band at the waist
Total length: 59" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4756
Reference Photo: From the book "Jules Francois Crahay" by Lannoo.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
john galliano
Magnificent Rare Fall 2000 John Galliano Deep Burgundy Red Silk Taffeta Corset Dress w Extended Panel
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This magnificent dress is the silk version of the Fall 2000 Look 54 leather dress that Galliano sent down the runway for the final look of that show. This version was made in this stunning silk taffeta for the shops. It is very rare and wonderful piece of his history. This dress has the added modern provenance of being the actual dress worn by esteemed poet Rupi Kaur to the Vanity Fair and Elton John after parties for the 2024 Oscars. This is a magnificent rare and early Galliano that is one of the best I have seen. A truly incredible example of his early work.
The dress is made from an iridescent silk taffeta in a deep ruby red. The iridescent quality of the fabric make it catch the light in the most incredible way that you could imagine. It doesn't need a single embellishment because of the fabric choice. I actually prefer the dress in this silk over the leather version as this feels more wearable and the impact of the fabric is beautiful. This is one of John's classic corseted pieces. Inside the dress there is a full built-in corset that has wired cups and extensive boning to hold you in place. The dress came to me with a thick, almost shoe lace like cord that was used to lace it up at the back and I love the contrast this gives. This is a detail however that is hidden from sight. The corset and its lace is all hidden inside the dress and then the dress zips to close over it. The dress is seamed vertically so there is no horizontal seam to break the eye. The shoulders are cut so they sit off the shoulder and you can see this both on the runway and on Rupi. The inner corset holds the dress tightly in place around the bodice and the breasts are pushed up from the internal cupping. It skims over the hips and then the skirt narrows inwards slightly before flaring back out. The lower skirt is set on an angled seam and has extra fabric to create that little fabulous flare that it has. The seaming at the back is incredible. On one side he has run a slightly curving seam sett on an angle from the top of one hip to the centre seam of the back. Attached along this seam is an extensive long curved panel that picks up the flare and curve of the skirt. This panel drapes lower down to past the hem as you can see in the photos of Rupi. It is stunningly beautiful and shows what a genius he is. This is a rare opportunity for a beautiful piece of his early work that shows his love and devotion to corsetry and that Galliano flare we know and love. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
The inner corset is lined in the same silk and it is bone and cupped. It laces at the back as described above and seen. The rest of the dress is lined in a deep burgundy red silk. It closes with a hidden set zipper at the back. I see a couple of very tiny areas of darkening on the fabric but they are extremely minor. This is exactly how the dress was worn on the red carpet so they have no impact on the wearability of the dress at all. Please see the photos after the label shot.
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam with an A-B cup at the front
Waist: 12-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: approx 57" from top of the natural shoulder to hem and the panel extends another 7 inches past the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4693
Reference Photos/Videos: (1-10) Fall 2000 John Galliano, Look 54 (Final Look). / (11-12) Rupi Kaur in this dress for the Elton John Oscars Party, March 2024.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Incredible 1972 Yves Saint Laurent Red Floral Silk Chiffon & Red Silk Dress w Balloon Sleeves & Pleat Detailing
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When dating this extraordinary Yves Saint Laurent dress, we found a photo of a piece with almost an identical cut bodice from 1972 along with several runway photos that show other pieces with that same cut to the bodice. I have included those here for you and it is interesting to note that the pleating technique that is used around the upper hip of the skirt was also done in a more intricate fashion for the 1974 Couture show. Yves often use ideas from both collections. - Rive Gauche and Couture - to build and develop ideas and it is fascinating to see the progression of his work from garment to garment. This is an incredibly beautiful example of his work from this time period.
This dress combines a floral silk chiffon with a muted red silk on the skirt. This combination is absolutely gorgeous. Is combination of silks give the dress just enough weight and structure to be able to create the impressive lines and volume that you see but while still making it feel soft and romantic. The colours are spectacular. The top is a printed silk chiffon, and it has a stunning floral pattern in red purples and greens that float over the entire bodice and the sleeves. The bodice is cut to skim over you and the waist nips in. It plunges at the front and crosses over itself, and the neckline has been detailed with ruffles that begin at the back of the neck and circle around to follow the V at the front and then run down to the waist. piping in the same fabric detail. The waste and ties have been left off to the side to hang down and create a pretty little detail. The skirt falls to the floor from there and it has yards and yards of fabric in it that creates the fullness and volume that you see. The skirt falls in a gently widening line and is quite full by the time it reaches the hem. I love the volume that this type of fabric creates and how it billows around you as you move but at the same time it is as light as a feather. Around the entire upper hip area, and starting at the waist or a series of tiny cleats that gradually open out to create the volume underneath. This intricate detail is a beautiful addition to the dress. The sleeves are outstanding. Each is a single layer of the silk chiffon and are wide and very full. They are caught up at the wrist with a circle full circle ruffle underneath. This creates a beautiful and dramatic finish to the top. I love everything about this dress. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a red silk and closes at the back with a hidden set painted met zipper. Attached ties at the waist and elastic in each cuff. The silk skirt and the exterior layer is a tool ruffle that helps keep the volume through the skirt. Tagged a vintage YSL 38. I see some light marks around the hem of the skirt.
Sleeves: 24" and 14" around the upper arm
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 16" from neck to waist
Total length: 60" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4665
Reference Photos: Fall 1972 Yves Saint Laurent.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
malcolm starr
One of Two Identical 1970s Malcolm Starr Red Zipper Front Coats w Applique & Braiding Detail SZ SML
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This is one of two identical coats landing in the shop today. The only difference its that one is a medium (this one) and the other is a small. This is from the time period that Youssef Rizkallah headed the company. Youssef joined the Malcolm Starr label in 1969 and remained as the head designer until 1975. The years that Youssef headed the line are among some of my favorites and in particular his pieces that utilize quilting and patchwork, like these coats, are truly iconic. Rizkallah was born in Egypt and studied at the Ecole de dessin appliqué and the Ecole des arts decoratifs in Paris. His designs seem to combine that sense of couture lines that he gained in Paris with the colour and vividness of his homeland.
This is a wonderful piece that can be worn as either a coat or as a dress thanks to the zip front that completely opens. We were able to date it based on the very similar piece that was featured in the ad campaign for 1970. Which makes it a very early piece for his time at the label. The base of the coat is a red fabric that feels like a light wool that has a slight ribbed texture to it. The entire coat is detailed with a combination of a deep blue braiding and blue ric rac that follows the detailing and lines of the coat to emphasize the pattern and cut. Elaborate designs run around the hem and panels in the palest possible blue follow the lines of the coat. A floral patchwork is set around the hem and edged by the rib rack to create that fantastic design that you see. This anchors all the various parts of the design and gives a pop of contrast to the colour combination. The coat is collarless and it zips up the front. The shoulders are soft and the sleeves widen out to be full at their hem. The coat falls from the shoulders and widens out as it nears the hem. I took a shot of it laying flat so you can see the incredible shape that it has. It is quite full by the time it reaches the hem. Because it zips to close at the front and fully opens, you can wear this as a proper coat or you can wear it on its own as a dress, which lets it play double duty. It even has weights in the hem so that once on it falls perfectly in place and pockets that are hidden along those front seams. I just love that spectacular design through the body of the coat. It is so dramatic and like wearing art. I love it. Excellent overall condition with notes below
Fully lined in a hand set pale blue silk and closes down the front with an unpainted silver zipper. I see the teeniest bit yellowing, grubbiness to the bottom pale blue panel and maybe a touch of the same on the blue on the cuffs but I am being pretty picky there especially. Grubbiness to the inner lining around the hem and edge of the inner neck and makes on the inner lining under each arm. Please see the photo after the label shot. Tagged a vintage Small
Sleeves: 24"
Inner shoulders: 14"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 57" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4483
Reference Photo: "The Malcolm Starr All Starrs" Ad, 1970.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
malcolm starr
One of Two Identical 1970s Malcolm Starr Red Zipper Front Coats w Applique & Braiding Detail SZ MED
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This is one of two identical coats landing in the shop today. The only difference its that one is a medium (this one) and the other is a small. This is from the time period that Youssef Rizkallah headed the company. Youssef joined the Malcolm Starr label in 1969 and remained as the head designer until 1975. The years that Youssef headed the line are among some of my favorites and in particular his pieces that utilize quilting and patchwork, like these coats, are truly iconic. Rizkallah was born in Egypt and studied at the Ecole de dessin appliqué and the Ecole des arts decoratifs in Paris. His designs seem to combine that sense of couture lines that he gained in Paris with the colour and vividness of his homeland.
This is a wonderful piece that can be worn as either a coat or as a dress thanks to the zip front that completely opens. We were able to date it based on the very similar piece that was featured in the ad campaign for 1970. Which makes it a very early piece for his time at the label. The base of the coat is a red fabric that feels like a light wool that has a slight ribbed texture to it. The entire coat is detailed with a combination of a deep blue braiding and blue ric rac that follows the detailing and lines of the coat to emphasize the pattern and cut. Elaborate designs run around the hem and panels in the palest possible blue follow the lines of the coat. A floral patchwork is set around the hem and edged by the rib rack to create that fantastic design that you see. This anchors all the various parts of the design and gives a pop of contrast to the colour combination. The coat is collarless and it zips up the front. The shoulders are soft and the sleeves widen out to be full at their hem. The coat falls from the shoulders and widens out as it nears the hem. I took a shot of it laying flat so you can see the incredible shape that it has. It is quite full by the time it reaches the hem. Because it zips to close at the front and fully opens, you can wear this as a proper coat or you can wear it on its own as a dress, which lets it play double duty. It even has weights in the hem so that once on it falls perfectly in place and pockets that are hidden along those front seams. I just love that spectacular design through the body of the coat. It is so dramatic and like wearing art. I love it. Excellent overall condition with notes below
Fully lined in a hand set pale blue silk and closes down the front with an unpainted silver zipper. I see some faint yellowing, grubbiness to the bottom pale blue panel and maybe a touch of the same on the blue on the cuffs but I am being pretty picky there especially. Grubbiness to the inner lining around the hem and neck. Tagged a vintage Medium.
Sleeves: 24"
Inner shoulders: 14"
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 26" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 58" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4481
Reference Photo: "The Malcolm Starr All Starrs" Ad, 1970.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
james galanos
1970s Galanos Couture Custom Made Silk Chiffon Pant w Metallic Lace Detailed Dress Set
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James Galanos launched Galanos Originals in 1951. He was only 27 years old. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. When you covert to modern dollars the top end figure would be about $31,000 today. His ready-to-wear was made to couture standards and on par with the French couturiers of the time. Grace Kelly was a huge fan and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world. He is one of my personal favourites and this set is an exquisite and very special example of his work.
This set was custom made for, and is from the estate of, 1950s model Betsy Pickering Kaiser. Betsy appeared on several Vogue covers in the 1950s and it was during that time period time period that she met Galanos. They were friends for over 60 years. She collected and wore Galanos pieces her entire life and was his friend and muse. He once told her husband ‘I would rather have Betsy wear my clothes than any other woman’. She was a constant presence on the International Best Dressed List and and was added to the Best Dressed Hall of Fame in the early 1970s.
This is gorgeous. It is made from a beautiful printed light weight silk chiffon that is combined with a red lace that has a metallic finish. The entire set combined weighs ounces. Huge flowers cover the entire surface of the silk chiffon. The pants are made from two layers of the chiffon and they are cut long and wide. An elastic waist makes them very easy and comfortable to wear. You then slip on that long piece over the pants. It is also constructed from two layers of silk that fall from under the lace bodice. Each side is slit open right up to the lace top. This gives the top piece a ton of movement and creates this fabulous floating effect around you when you walk. The bodice part is made of two panels of a metallic red lace that is connected along each side with a bit of a angled plunge above where they connect. The lace has that fantastic metallic finish to it for contrast against the pattern in the silk chiffon. The bodice has an inner nude silk lining so that from a distance you look like you are wearing nothing underneath it. The top is suspended by four tiny silk straps that curve over the shoulders. This set is tremendously good in person and it really needs an actual body to come to life. Cut supermodel long in length. Excellent condition
The pants are made of two layers of silk chiffon and close with a back zipper and elastic through the waist. The outer layer is lined with a nude silk chiffon through the bodice and the skirt is made from two layers of the silk. The outer layer closes at the side with hidden fabric covered snaps. There are a couple of very minor repairs and light snags near the hem of the overlay. This is a one-off, unlabelled custom piece made for Betsy and came from her estate.
Over dress
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 62" from shoulder to hem
Pants
Elastic waist: 15-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Pant: 45" from waist to hem
Inseam: 32" from inner seam to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD2278
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
bill gibb
Fabulous 1970s Bill Gibb Red Woven Floral Print Silk Jacket w Matching High Slit Skirt
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Bill Gibb was one of the most influential designers in 1970s Britain and his clothes were sought out and worn by the rich and famous. His work always has a high fantasy element to it and he was crowned Designer of the Year in 1970. Much of his work verged on couture and he was unrelenting in striving for perfection. Every piece I bring into the shop that was made by him is very special and this one is no exception. Bill had a great fondness for history and looked globally for his inspiration. This set pays homage to Asian culture and I love how he combined the traditional cherry blossom print with English roses. It is gorgeous.
I love that you can wear this set together or as separates to extend their wear. It is absolutely gorgeous either way. The skirt is made from two long panels that are attached along the waist band and part way down each side. This creates this wonderful line from the hip to the hem. It is seamed down each side to just past the hips and then below that it is completely open. When you move or sit you get this long flash of legs all the way up. It is almost scandalous for its time period. The jacket is cut with more of an oversized feel. The front has no closures. You just slip it on and go. The top of the collar flares out for a bit of detail and the sleeves are cut wide and full. The jacket is detailed with black flat braiding that highlights the cut and adds detailing. More braiding runs along the edges of the skirt. The fabric is a beautiful red silk with little cherry blossoms and English roses woven through it in a slightly metallic finished thread. This is one of those pieces that in person and on an actual body it is even better then how it looks on my dress form. Excellent condition with a minor note below
Both pieces are fully lined in a red silk. The skirt closes with a metal and nylon zipper. The jacket has no closures and slips on to wear. I see a tiny touch of foxing on the side of the skirt, a tiny pen mark on the front of the jacket and some slight lines running up the satin on one sleeve. Please see the photos after the label shot. All these are very minor. Tagged a vintage UK 8. You might be able to add a little extension at the waist to get a bit more room if needed
Jacket
Sleeves: 24.5
Shoulders: 15" across
Bust: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 13" from neck to hem
Skirt
Waist: 11.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 43" from neck to hem
Slits: 20" from hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS
Item# DD3436
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
madame gres
Magical c.1958 Madame Gres Haute Couture Printed Silk Chiffon Dress & Hooded Cape Piece
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Madame Gres' work has had profound effects on Haute Couture and her influence still resonates to this day. Her attention to detail, master draping techniques and respect for the female form is unparalleled. She was known for designing and creating garments directly on her models and this became a signature of her work. She opened her first atelier, La Maison Alix in 1932. A partnership briefly changed the house's name to Alix Barton and then the label went to simply Alix. In 1942 she married, and the label made its last change to became Madame Gres, which was a partial anagram of Serge, her husband's first name. Her work spans over five full decades with the vast majority of it, with the exception of a short-lived RTW line begun in 1980, dedicated solely to creating Haute Couture. She is one of the greatest couturiers of our time and her pieces are very rare and hard to find.
This Haute Couture dress is exceptional. It comes to me directly from the family that the other recent Gres pieces have come from. Her son told me that 'Madame Grès would let her wear many dresses as she was size model and those she really liked she purchased afterwards.' This was one of those that she kept and it is a very special piece. He remembers her wearing this around 1960 to some galas. This is also the time period that she would have had that relationship with Madame Gres. In the course of researching the dress we found that the 1958 and 1959 collections in particular were ones that featured braided details and cape elements like this dress has. I have included here some examples other dresses by Gres that share some of those common elements to this one from those years for you to see.
This is one of the most stunning dresses I have ever had in the shop. It is made from a biased cut silk chiffon with a small abstract print on it. From a distance it gives you that beautiful mottled red effect. Then as you look closer at the fabric you see that there is a deeper red, coral, soft green and a blue that all work together to form a pretty abstract floral print. The dress itself is simple and minimalist. It falls from the shoulder with wide straps that are made from hand gathering the silk chiffon and hand stitching them in these incredible little curved sections to create the illusion that the silk has been braided. These curve over the shoulders and then follow the neckline for a square off feel at the front. At the back they run down to the mid back and then run across in a straight line there as well for that same squared off finish there. The body of the dress falls from under that detailing in a swoop of bias cut silk. By the time it reaches the hem it is quite full. When you are standing still you get a soft column feel but then when you move you get incredible movement. The dress is lined in a layer of biased cut ivory silk and this gives the top layer and that pattern more depth. The silk is as light as air. Every seam on the dress has been finished by hand. Working with a silk chiffon as fine as this makes that an incredible achievement that would've taken countless hours of handwork. The dress is stunning on its own but this is a set and it comes with a incredible matching caped piece that has such an unusual and beautiful design. Two wide panels done in a single layer of silk chiffon are sewn together at the top of the neck at the back and then they hook together at the front. The panels fall over each shoulder to the floor and just past the hem of the dress. It is incredibly light in weight. This allows the slightest bit of air to pick them up so that they waft and float around you as you move. If that was not already beautiful enough the cape is topped by an oversized hood made of the same silk chiffon. It is cut extra long at the back and in such a way that when it is off the head the ends twirl on their own. I have taken a photo of this for you because it is just such an incredible detail. It's something that happens naturally and on its own as a result of how the silk has been placed and sewn into place. When the hood is up it falls gently around the face to frame it. The dress is in incredible condition and appears to have never been worn. It is literally a work of art and one of the most special things I've ever had in the shop. This is truly an extraordinary piece of modern couture and is exceptionally beautiful. No matter how good you think it looks in the photos, it is better in person. Excellent condition.
The dress is lined in a fine ivory silk. There is handmade soft inner corset set inside and under the ivory layer and it closes with its own zipper. The ivory silk lining closes over that with its own zipper and then the outer layer of the dress closes with hidden set tiny snaps. The cape hooks to close at the front. An inner waist stay hooks to close with metal couture hooks. I see a very tiny and finely done seam at the base of where it snaps to close at the front and I'm not sure if it is there deliberately or if it was a repair at one time but it's invisible when the dress is on. Please see the photo after the label shot. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. The dress is finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely made by hand. The proper Haute Couture label is present. The bias cut of the dress does allow for a range of measurements and I have listed those below to the comfortable range laying flat where that applies. Note that due to the value of this dress returns will not be accepted so that it ships only one time.
Inner waist stay: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 58" from top of shoulder to hem
Cape: 65" from neck to hem and will come up a touch when on the shoulders
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4254
Reference Photos: (1) 1958 Madame Gres Evening Dress in The MET Collection. / (2) Madame Gres evening dress, L'officiel de la mode, 1958. / (3) 1959 Madame Gres Evening Dress in the Chicago History Museum Collection.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.