Voguepedia says of Gilbert Adrian: "In the hands of the legendary Hollywood designer Gilbert Adrian, clothes could do and say magical things. From the flower-festooned munchkin costumes in The Wizard of Oz to the elegance-defining “Gowns by Adrian” worn by screen stars like Norma Shearer, Barbara Stanwyck, and Joan Crawford—and copied by the hundreds of thousands for the humbler masses—Adrian was the definition of cinematic invention for more than a decade.....Adrian’s signature custom-retail label, founded in 1942, was wildly popular. His gowns bore distinctive names like “Dinner with a Dash of Gold” and “Shades of Picasso,” and he catered to an elite set of style mavens in Hollywood."

After some extensive research I believe this gown is from from Gilbert Adrian's 1945 collection. It was sold to my client and dated as being from a few seasons later, but I feel that the advertisement that I found is too much of a coincidence with its similar feeling pattern worked through the design. The gown is absolutely outstanding and in a world where Adrian Gilbert pieces are already rare, this particular gown is even more special, even if you simply based it on how utterly beautiful it is. It is made of a stunning black silk that has a metallic lame thread woven through it to create the design work that you see. The metallic parts are done in a gold  mixed with a bright, true green and a deeper olive. The addition of the metal thread gives the entire ensemble a subtle glow. The fabric has a good weight to it that helps it to hold the shape and also adds to it rich and luxurious feel. This is fabric that you would simply not be able to even have made anymore. The Grecian inspired pattern is woven through the entire fabric. The addition of this metallic thread highlights the design that runs all the way around the skirt and the top. The top is a simple halter bodice with straps that curve up and around the shoulders. It curves in towards the waist through vertical seaming and is cut to end exactly on top of where the skirt flares out. Once on it gives the illusion of a true gown. The top is entirely finished with the metallic thread, allowing us to see the full beauty of it. The skirt sits under this and the upper portion of the waist is fitted and set high so that it creates no break or lines when it is worn under the top. From under that, a magnificent ball gown skirt cascades to the floor in a sweep of silk. The construction of this is wonderful and it is gathered all the way around the dropped hip seam and set into that seam with a series of tiny, perfectly spaced knife pleats that open up to the fullness you see. I styled this over a light, full length crinoline to really give it the proper shape it would have had been meant to be worn as when it was made. The shape that this creates is amazing. The dress is entirely hand made to Haute Couture standards. This is a rare opportunity to own an original Gilbert Adrian that is not only in wonderful condition but is also heartbreakingly beautiful and still to this day, feels modern and wearable. Excellent condition.

Both piece are unlined with hand finished inner seams and the inner construction is done to Couture standards. The skirt closes with a painted metal zipper and hook & eye on the inner waist band. The top closes with a back painted metal zipper. The skirt was photoed over a full length crinoline that is not included. I have included detail photos of both the fabric and the inner hand done seams. The top looks like it has been out along the side seams from the waist up on both sides and one seam on the fitted part of the inner top skirt was also opened at some point. The work is well done and it could easily be made smaller again if needed. Note that due to the rarity and expense of this gown it is final sale.

Top
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 25" from shoulder to hem

Skirt
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips at lower seam of skirt: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 44" from waist to hem with a 3.5" hem turned up

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3242

Reference Photo: Gown by Gilbert Adrian, available at the William H. Block Co., Indianapolis, 1945.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This gown is absolutely incredible and very beautiful. It really is one of the most phenomenal dresses I have ever had and the workmanship is exquisite. It is constructed from yards and yards of pink woven silk that has an almost iridescent finish to it. There is also a gorgeous floral pattern woven through the silk that is just breathtaking. It is wonderful example of the high end fabrics that was being produced during this period. The dress has no identifying label but the care and meticulous construction tell me that it is definitely a high end piece. There are lots of couture level finishes on this one. The cut is pure Old Hollywood. The bodice is gathered all the way down the center front to the waist. Above that, it is flat pleated into a deep V and it then extends into wide straps that curve up and over the shoulders. The straps thin out as they run down the back. I love how at the back they are set on a slight inwards angle rather then just being set in a straight line down from the shoulder. The dress cinches in at the waist and this tops an expansive, full skirt that is made from yards and yards of the pink silk. The fabric gathers slightly down the front in soft curves, extending the line coming down the middle of the bodice, and the hips pouf out tremendously. The volume through the skirt is achieved both by the stiffened netted underskirt that comes with it and by the squaring off of the fabric across the top of the hips. I photoed one shot of the skirt with the draped part pulled outwards for you to see how this was done. On the interior corner of that squared off bit, there is a little weight encased in fabric. Once on, the squared off part of the skirt drops back inwards on itself and the weight inside is just enough to hold the shape of the skirt so that you get those wonderful side drapes, but the weights are not heavy enough to take away the volume. Incredible. Everything about this gown is beautiful. The interior is interlined with a black silk organza and there are hand done finishes throughout. This is a testament to gowns made in this time period. Excellent condition

Interlined in a black silk organza. It closes with a back painted metal zipper. Hand work throughout. Weights in the interior of the skirt as described above. The netted underskirt is not attaches and will be shipped with the dress. It closes with hook & eye at the waist. It is stiffened slightly for shape. Bias cut will allow for a bit of range size-wise

Dress
Bust: 15-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: approx 17" from top of shoulder strap to waist
Skirt: 44" from waist to hem

Underskirt
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 39" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# E662

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The Western world in the twenties to fifties had a special fascination with the far Eastand this highly influenced the fashion of that time period. Japan and China especially began to export and sell pieces made specifically for the tourist market that combined classic design elements of the respective cultures with a slight western twist to the cut and colors. You often will see the shorter jackets come up for sale but the coats are a little harder to find and far more versatile in my opinion. These were the most prized both then and now. This one is stunning and done in a high grade, fine red silk with off white detailing to contrast the cuffs, collar, front and hem. Over this is is embroidered with absolutely brilliant colors. The floral pattern in its soft pastel tones and the overall design are exquisite. Its lovely and light so easy to wear. This one is not 100% perfect but still has lots of life left to it if you don't mind wearing vintage with a flaw or two. Presents as excellent condition at first glance but does have flaws as noted below.

Fully lined in red tissue silk, it closes with frog knots at the front. In person it is a more vibrant red with a slight cherry cast to it. There is a dark mark at the front and the fabric has thinned, I see grubbiness and spots to the cuffs, fraying along the side slits, on one arm and some small interior fraying and shattering. I have photoed all the areas and these photos can be seen after the label shot. It is in fabulous shape other then these areas. Priced accordingly. The loose cut should fit a range of sizes. This is sold in as found condition and as a final sale.

50" from the end of one sleeve to the other flat across
Bust: 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 43" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-LRG

Item# C514

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is one of those absolutely beautiful printed silk dresses that you can only find from the 1940s. It was definitely stored properly for all these years because the colors in the print are as crisp and vibrant as the day it was made. The base of the dress is a deep chocolate brown and then onto this are beautiful sprigs of flowers that have the feel of being hand painted onto the fabric, even though they are of course screened on. The cut is fitted with a high neck that has a neat little pointed collar. The sleeves are capped and the waist is seamed for fit. The skirt is very interesting in its construction. At the front, it wraps over itself and has a curved panel that shows a bit of leg when you move. At the back it is gathered into the waist seam for a little fullness and falls longer then it does at the front. On each side a panel of fabric wraps partially around the hip and then is caught in a loop of fabric on the front of each hip and falls to the hem. This is a very pretty detailing and one I have not seen before. Excellent condition with one minor note below

Unlined and closes with a back painted metal zipper. There is just the slightest touch of color change to the tops of the shoulders - it will not even photo but is mentioned for accuracy. I don't think it impacts at all when on.

Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 14.5 " from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 24" from waist to shortest point of the front hem, 29" to longest point at the back

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# D606

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This dress is not perfect but is just too pretty and still has too much life left in it not to have someone love it. It is made from an early rayon jersey that has a touch of stretch to it so is very easy to wear. The design on it is very pretty. A beautiful floral design is done in a purple print that is set on an off-white, ivory backdrop. It is an unusual color to have used for this time period and it is quite amazing that the color is still strong and true. The cut is simple and sweet with a dipped neckline and soft gathered pleating. The waist nips in and the dress has its original slip buckle belt that you can use to cinch it in further. The skirt is cut swing style and gently curves away from the more fitted hip area. An inverted pleat runs down the front for a little extra detail and to give it a bit more volume when you move. Really a pretty little piece. Presents as great condition.

Unlined and closes with a side metal zipper. There is maybe the slightest of grubbiness near the seam under each arm but it does not show when on and does not detract at all because of the print. There has been some disintegration  to some of the thread along the front pleating on the skirt and I see the occasion 'picking' or snag in fabric here and there. This is all patina form being worn, washed and loved and given the age of the dress I have just priced it low. It is strong and sturdy and very wearable still

Shoulders: 14"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5-14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 17" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 26" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# D602

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The early little black dresses that Ceil Chapman made on the late 40s and early 50s are some of the best examples of her work out there. This piece is quite fabulous with its mix of inky black velvet and ivory silk matte satin. I hope that the girl that decides to make it hers will truly love and cherish it. These early Chapman pieces are very hard to come by and you can see the masterful seaming techniques she employed in this piece. The ivory silk on the bodice inset bodice is sharply pleated across the waist and in the offset notch of the bust. I love how she has set this detailing off center so it looks like the wearer is wrapped into the dress. The skirt is cut slim and long to just past the knee. At the back two black velvet panels drape down the skirt on either side of the center. These are finished with a backing of the same ivory silk used on the bodice so that you get the perfect, unexpected, flash of ivory as you move. An extraordinary piece that is highly collectible. Excellent condition with one minor note below

Fully lined in a combination of an ivory rayon backing the bodice and a black silk through the reminder of the dress. It closes with a back painted metal zipper and is boned through the bodice. There is perhaps an area or two where the velvet's pile is not laying the same way as the rest but this is normal on a velvet dress of this age so more a sign of normal patina then a flaw but still mentioned for accuracy.

Shoulders: no true defined seam
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 46" from shoulder to hem with the back hem about an inch longer and the panels extending about 2" past that

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3103

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This absolutely fantastic silk swing dress from the 1940s has a vivid and stunning, hand painted floral print that covers it head to toe. The floral design that covers the dress feels pretty and feminine and the colors still feel as crisp and vibrant as the day it was made. The base is a deep blue silky rayon and the flowers just pop off of that. I love the little swoops of color that are interspersed among the flowers. The cut of the dress is simple and flattering. The neckline is especially beautiful with a panel of transparent, fine black silk net that has curving black silk cord detailing hand placed onto it. The waist is cut loose and easy and this flows into a swing style skirt that is cut with a more fitted hip and then swings out from there. Wide silk satin bands circle the skirt horizontally to give the illusion that the skirt is made up of three separate tiers. Excellent condition

Unlined and closes with a side metal zipper and has a second short zipper at the back neck. Hand finishes. Note that the cut through the upper body and waist is loose and easy but the hips do narrow

Slightly inset shoulder seam: 14"
Bust: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16.5" from neck to waist
Skirt: 30" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# D557

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This dress is wonderful and the cut of it is a little unique compared to those you usually find in this time period. It is made from a printed silk in a gorgeous shade of green. On to this is a print done in shades of pink and yellow depicting tiny little knights on horseback, lances in hand. These cavort over the entire dress for wonderful little pops of color. The colors are still crisp and true. The design of the dress itself is stunning and unique. The bodice is cut to skim over the body and has a chic little collar and capped sleeves that are cuffed. The waist nips in with a soft bow detailing on one side and the fabric is gathered in and up towards this detail. I love hoe the belt slips through an opening in behind the bow. Below that the skirt is cut in a long lean line and sits slightly asymmetrical due to the gathers on the one side. This emphasizes the feminine curves of the dress perfectly. Excellent condition with one note to review below concerning the belt.

Unlined and closes with a mid-back set metal zipper and buttons down the front. Some natural, very slight patina tot he buttons and the fabric covering the belt buckle shows some wear as photoed. Slightly different shade of green in person - better then how it photoed.

Shoulders: no defined seams
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15.5" from top of shoulder to waist
Skirt: 29" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# D597

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

These little black jersey dresses that were made on the late 1940s and early 1950s are wonderful examples of the work being done in these early forms of jersey. The dress is made of a very early silk knit jersey. The fabric is very fluid and drapes very well making it a preferred choice for many dress designers during this time period. The bodice has a detailing on it created by the soft pleats  that curve up either side to the neckline. The neckline is squared off and a little flat bow sits at its center. Each sleeve is cut to just past the elbows and they are kept simple and unadorned, just like the front of the skirt is. At the back, the pleat work from the front continues to cure around to meet at the back of the waist two panels of jersey fall from there to give some volume and movement to the back of the skirt. I love the nod to the art deco movement that this gives the dress. Excellent condition.

Fully lined through the body in a combination of black silk through the bodice and black rayon through the skirt. The sleeves are left unlined. It closes with a back painted metal zipper

Sleeves: approx 19"
Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 27" from waist to front hem, 29" to back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# E653

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Really unusual and unique dresses from the 1940s are almost impossible to find anymore and often examples have just a minor detailing of sequin work. This one however is like the holy grail as it is completely covered in hand set, blue sequins that follow the curves of the printed design underneath. And even more amazing this covers the dress from top to bottom. The cut is perfectly simple and perfectly feminine. The skirt is cut slim and straight from the more fitted hip area. The bodice above the nipped in waist is classic forties with short cap sleeves and a V neck that meets in a soft pleating detail at the center front. It also dips in the back and the neckline is edged in a pretty blue velvet. Over the entire surface of the white silk crepe are tiny hand set blue sequins, each individually placed and set by hand to follow the design underneath. One of the most striking and unusual 1940s dresses I have ever had. Excellent condition with one minor note to review below

Interlined with a net fabric and closes with a side painted metal zipper. Hand finished throughout.  There is minor fading on the top of each shoulder where the blue of the sequins and print has softened to a more purple tone. Because of where it sits and the complexity of the design its not really noticeable once on.

Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Skirt: 25" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# D584

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This dress is wonderful and very unusual for the time period. It is made from an amazing printed silk twill that has a very rich feel to it. It had to have been stored properly for all these years because the color is still crisp and true. The design of the dress itself is stunning. The silk fabric has an amazing print that is kind of a stylized combination of a crocodile and alligator print. The color is a beautiful, rich blue and this print covers the entirety of the dress. The cut is fitted and chic with a sweetheart neckline and capped shoulders. The waist nips in and the skirt is cut in a long lean line from the fitted hip area. I love the pockets that are set angled off each hip. This emphasizes the feminine curves of the dress perfectly. Each of those pockets and the neckline as edges with beads and faux pearls and there is a scattering of both over the front bodice as well. Excellent condition.

Unlined and closes with a side set metal zipper. Some of the pearls have lost their exterior coating over the years and there is the very smallest appearance of fading to a slight more purple tone to the blue around the opening of the arms but given the age I still rate this as excellent. Really a gorgeous and unusual dress

Shoulders: no defined seams
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Skirt: 30" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# D583

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This little hat is just fantastic and a wonderful fine. It is pink and the top covered in sequins. Ties extend from the back and tie leaving a keyhole that you can slip your hair through or leave as a decorative detail. This also allows this to fit on just about any size head. I have tied it a couple of ways but I really think that you could tie and style this endlessly around different hair dos. I adore it - it is so unusual and so unique. Excellent condition

The ties make the size variable

Item# A330

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This absolutely fantastic silk swing dress from the 1940s has a vivid and stunning, hand screened floral print that covers it head to toe. It appears to have been stored properly for all these years as the color is as crisp and vibrant as the day it was made. The design is stunning. A beautiful floral design is done over a black base and the flowers just pop of of it. The cut is simple and sweet. The neckline is especially beautiful as it has a panel of fine black silk net that follows the curved and angled cut there. The waist nips in and has a gorgeous hip peplum that curves and follows around the waistline, circling the hips. The skirt is cut swing style and gently curves away from the more fitted hip area. Really a spectacular and special piece, especially with that touch of net. Excellent condition!

Unlined and closes with a side metal zipper and has a second short zipper at the back neck. Hand finishes.

Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 14" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 29.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# D544

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.