I found two versions of this dress when researching it. One was a Haute Couture version in a gold brocade from the Fall 1997-1998 runway. The Couture version took the formed and shaped bust-line to an even greater degree then this ready to wear version that I have here. Then there was an all black version shown for the Fall 1998 ready-to-wear show and you can see it has the same silhouette as this dress does. If you then combine the two, taking that same RTW shape and making it on the fabric from the Couture show, you have this dress. Finding runway references for Mugler's work is not always easy as he would often change designs for production and produced many pieces that were not shown on the runway. It's an extraordinary find.
I love the sharp fitted cut of the dress and that shaped bodice is exactly the kind of lines that we expect when we think of his work. That shaped, curved and pointed bust-line felt scandalous when they were first shown on the runway and still feel that way years later. This is classic Mugler and very collectible as a result. The dress is made out of a gold brocade that is heavy enough so that it was able to be sculpted into that curving shape. It molds and accentuates your curves. The curves through the hips are there whether it is on or off the body and he plays and exaggerates the female form through them. All of the shape is created through seaming to help to give the dress structure, shape and support. The waist nips in and the hips curve out and away from the body. The skirt is cut above the knee and curves in at the hem to further exaggerate the shape. The bust is spectacular. It is seamed and molded like a bra cup and then has those extensions that wing up into points on both sides. The cups are inset at the front so the shape is pushed to the front as you can see in the reference photos. You only have to look at the runway photos included to know how amazing this one is going to be on. The colour in person is a much stronger metallic gold feeling and really is better in real life. The fabric is also surprising soft. It's really fabulous. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a brown silky rayon and closes with a back zipper. Tagged a vintage Mugler 38. The cups will probably fit up to a B, maybe a small C. They are seamed and wired for shape.
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 28" from top of bodice to hem and the paint extend about
2.5” above the top of the bodice
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Reference Photos: (1) Fall 1997-98 Thierry Mugler Haute Couture Runway. / (2) Fall 1998 Thierry Mugler Runway.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.