james galanos
Amazing 1970s James Galanos Couture Brown & Black Navy Silk Crepe Front Slit Dress
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In 1951 a 27 year old James Galanos launched his first label called Galanos Originals. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. His ready-to-wear line was made close to couture standards and with a level of craftsmanship that was on par with the French couturiers. Galanos was a master cutter and draper and he used many couture techniques in his work. Grace Kelly was an early fan. He was truly one of the great American designers and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world. He is one of my personal favourites. This dress is absolutely gorgeous.
The dress is made out of a high end silk crepe that flows and drapes beautifully over the body. The bodice is cut to skim and blouse over the body to the waist. The waist is cut with a more generous feel and has a softened elastic running through it. You could add a belt if you wanted to cinch it in more and give it more shape. The skirt falls from there in a beautiful column of that same silk and widens out as it nears the hem. It has a bit of an old Hollywood feel to it that I love. The dress closes at the front with a tie at the top of the neck and a hook and zipper that starts at the waist. This leaves an open slit from under where it ties at the neck right to the waist. It is subtle but as you move, you do get that flash of bare skin. There is no collar other than that little tie that extends out from the neck. I love the inset of the darker coloured silk that runs down the entire front of the dress. In certain lights, it looks like the deepest possible blue and in others a soft black. One that band hits the waist seam it is pleated all the way down to the hem. This inset cleverly adds the perfect amount of detail to the dress and also gives it the illusion of extra length. The simplicity of the design hides the high skill level that having this all lay so perfectly with this type of fabric and with such a simple closure. It is so well made that I think that you could actually wear the dress either way around. The sleeves are spectacular and each one is cut to be a full wide balloon sleeve above the banded wrist. One of his signature knotted silk buttons closes each cuff. It is the perfect little extra embellishment for the dress. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
Fully lined through the skirt with a matching coloured silk chiffon and the bodice is unlined. It closes as described above. The elastic at the waist has softened. There is one button at each cuff. Hand finishes and ribbon finished seams throughout. There is very slight fading across the top of the shoulders and one one arm. Please see the photo after the label shot. If worn belted this would accommodate a smaller size as well as the cut is so forgiving.
Sleeves: Approx 26"
Shoulders: no shoulder seam present
Bust: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 17-18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 17.5" from neck to waist
Total length: 64" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4945
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
james galanos
1970s Galanos Couture Silk Chiffon Pant & Over Dress Set w Metallic Lace Detailing
I Have a Question
James Galanos launched Galanos Originals in 1951. He was only 27 years old. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. When you covert to modern dollars the top end figure would be about $31,000 today. His ready-to-wear was made to couture standards and on par with the French couturiers of the time. Grace Kelly was a huge fan and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world. He is one of my personal favourites and this set is an exquisite and very special example of his work.
This set is from the estate of 1950s model Betsy Pickering Kaiser. Betsy appeared on several Vogue covers in the 1950s and it was during that time period time period that she met Galanos. They were friends for over 60 years. She collected and wore Galanos pieces her entire life and was his friend and muse. He once told her husband ‘I would rather have Betsy wear my clothes than any other woman’. She was a constant presence on the International Best Dressed List and and was added to the Best Dressed Hall of Fame in the early 1970s.
The set is made from a beautiful printed light weight silk chiffon that is combined with a red lace that has a metallic finish. The entire set combined weighs ounces. Huge flowers cover the surface of the silk chiffon. The pants are made from two layers of the chiffon and they are cut long and wide. An elastic waist makes them very easy and comfortable to wear. Layered over the pants is a long dress that is also made from two layers of silk combined with a lace for the top part. Each side of the skirt is slit right up where the top ends. This lets the top skirt billow and move around you when you walk. The bodice part is made of two panels of a metallic red lace and it is connected along each side. There is a bit of an angled V where they connect at each sire. The lace has that fantastic metallic finish to it for contrast against the pattern in the silk chiffon. The bodice has an inner nude silk lining so that from a distance you look like you are wearing nothing underneath it. The top is suspended by four tiny silk straps that curve over the shoulders. Cut supermodel long in length. Excellent condition
The pants are made of two layers of silk chiffon and close with a back zipper and elastic through the waist. The outer layer is lined with a nude silk chiffon through the bodice and the skirt is made from two layers of the silk. The outer layer closes at the side with hidden fabric covered snaps. There are a couple of very minor repairs and light snags near the hem of the overlay. It is unlabelled but is a custom piece made for Betsy and came from her estate.
Over dress
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 19" from the top of the shoulder to the seam under the lace edge
Total length: 62" from shoulder to hem
Pants
Elastic waist: 15-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Pant: 45" from waist to hem
Inseam: 32" from inner seam to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD2278
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
james galanos
Prettiest 1960s James Galanos Couture Black French Lace & Silk Cord Dress
I Have a Question
In 1951 a 27 year old James Galanos launched his first label called Galanos Originals. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. His ready-to-wear line was made close to couture standards and with a level of craftsmanship that was on par with the French couturiers. Galanos was a master cutter and draper and he used many couture techniques in his work. Grace Kelly was an early fan. He was truly one of the great American designers and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world. He is one of my personal favourites. This dress is absolutely gorgeous.
This is a dress that is extremely well made with a very high level of construction techniques. That alone makes it a fabulous piece for me. The dress is made from two types of lace that give the dress its beautiful tactile feel. Everything about the cut is done to highlight and showcase those wonderful sculptural lines that the dress has. The dress falls from lace straps that curve up and over each shoulder. It dips down at the front and the back is scooped to leave a bare expanse of skin. It skims over the bust to the slight empire cut waist. The waist is generous and the lines of the dress are stunning. The bodice is covered with a beautiful black lace with a second layer of lace on top of the nude silk lining underneath so you get a little bit of extra depth to the pattern that you see. The skirt is made out of a heavy corded silk lace. The cording is also a clever way to help to shape the skirt so beautifully. The skirt curves out and over the hips and then widens out to the hem. The top lace layer sits over a deep green silk inner skirt. Having the deep moss green underneath highlights the cord and lace more than adding just a black under skirt would have. It is genius. The silk underneath also helps to hold the fuller shape the skirt has. The shape was all created by clever seaming and cut and it is so much better in person it is ridiculous. He is a designer who cut for the body, not the hanger or a dress form. His work only truly comes to life once on. The workmanship on this dress is exquisite and to demi-couture standards. Excellent condition.
Lined in a nude silk through the bodice and the inner piece of the skirt is backed in a black silk organza. It closes with a back zipper. Hand finishes throughout.
Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under the bust: 15.5" across
Hips: open
Bodice: 12.5" from top of shoulder to seam under the bust
Total length: 52" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4843
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
james galanos
Dreamy 1970s James Galanos Blue Brown & Green Silk Dress w Ruffled Waist & Metallic Gold Trim
I Have a Question
James Galanos was just 27 years old when he launched his first label called Galanos Originals in 1951. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. when you convert that to modern dollars and realize that it would be just under 30k for his upper range pieces. Part of the reason for those high price tags was that his ready-to-wear was made to couture standards. Galanos pieces were all produced in very limited quantities in his workshops and his work was as close to couture construction that you could find outside of Paris. Grace Kelly was an early fan and other couturiers looked to his work as inspiration. His work is held in all of the major museums around the world and he is one of my personal favourite designers.
This is one of my favourite pieces I have seen by Galanos and it is incredibly beautiful in person. The dress is made from a feather light silk and that choice of fabric is what gives it that bit of volume that you see through the skirt. I did not add any underskirts, the shape that you see is all created by the way the skirt is set in and around the waist and the lightness of the silk. Two piped blue silk straps curve up and over the shoulders. The neckline dips in a slight sweetheart at the front with the silk gathered and softly pleated all the way around the top of the bodice for detailing. The silk on the bodice is that same brilliant blue as the straps and it is softly gathered down the sides to the waist. The silk extends out past the waist seam into a edged ruffle that meets a ruffle underneath created by the extension of the silk of the skirt. I love the detailing there that this creates and that underneath the ruffle the waist seam is anchored with a gold braided cording. The skirt has been softly gathered all around the waist and then it open outwards to have the volume and fullness that you see. Four panels of silk have been pieced vertically together to construct the skirt. At the front you see a deep green panel on one side and a slightly metallic feeling copper brown on the other. At the back both of the panels are the same beautiful blue as the bodice. All of the edges where the panels meet are finished with a hand applied metallic gold cord. Between the green and brown panel at the front the skirt is slit open between the cording so when you walk or move you get a flash of bare leg. The silk is so light that when you love the skirt billows out around you. Incredible. Excellent condition
Unlined and closes with a back zipper. Ribbon edge interior seams. Hand finished throighout. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 16" from top of shoulder to waist seam
Total length: 59" from waist to hem
Slit: 26" from hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD3736
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.