In 1951, 27 year old James Galanos launched his first label called Galanos Originals. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. That said, his ready-to-wear was made to almost true couture standards and were made with a level of craftsmanship that was on par with the French couturiers. Galanos was a master cutter and draper and he used many couture techniques in the construction of his dresses and gowns. Grace Kelly was an early fan. His work is held in all of the major museums around the world and he is one of my personal favourite designers. 

This particular dress has the added provenance that its twin was worn by Nancy Reagan on two separate occasions. The first time was at a party in London where she was photoed with Douglas Fairbanks Jr and Princess Grace of Monaco. She then wore it again to the premiere of Annie in 1982. It was obviously a favourite and for good reason. The dress is absolutely gorgeous. It has a long slim cut with just a suggestion of shape through the waist. As it nears the hem it widens out just a touch and there is a high slit on the side that the shoulder is bare on. This allows you to walk and also lets a flash of leg show when you move or sit. It is lined with a very fine, high end red silk that feels like heaven over your skin. The top is angled up and over the shoulder. It is cut wide at the top of the shoulder and this curves over you and then dips down to follow the same angle at the back. The edge of the neckline and the arm are both finished in a small ruffle of the same silk faille that the rest of the dress is made out of. For detail he has added a gorgeous design that follows the angle of the angled front and back. The design is done to suggest leaves and grapes perhaps. It was created by utilizing a trapunto quilting effect where two layers of fabric are used, the underside of which is slit and padded, to produce a raised pouf effect on the top layer. It is a tedious method that would have added several hours to the dress to do this by hand. The dress is stunning on and the reference photos of Nancy included here give you an idea of how much it transforms once on an actual body. Excellent condition 

Fully lined in a red silk and closes with a zipper at the side. Ribbon edge inter seams. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. The colour in person is a little darker then how it photoed. In person it is between the colour of the shots here and the pics of Nancy in the reference photos 

Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 56.5" from top of shoulder to hem with approx 2" turned under
Slit: 26.5 from hem up

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3649

Reference Photos: (1) Nancy Reagan with Douglas Fairbanks Jr and Princess Grace of Monaco at a party in London, 1981.  /  (2-4) Nancy Reagan at the premiere of 'Annie' at Radio City Music Hall in 1982.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

James Galanos typifies that true American glamour. His work combines a chic sophistication with bold design and fabric choices. He was particularly known for his amazing evening wear. His work was executed to the highest standards and the workmanship is on par with couture. He is often called one of the great American couturiers and that title is well deserved in terms of construction and quality found in his pieces. He was a master at working with silk chiffon and his technique of layering the skirts with multiple panels of silk is a signature.

I love this dress. The color combination is very unusual and the silk chosen for the layers that make it up are of the highest quality. The dress is made out of several layers of silk chiffon. The inner pink dress is made out of four full layers that are stacked perfectly on top of each other. For the skirt each layer is attached at the side seam and waist which leaves the hem free and gives the dress movement when you move. The top portion is also made out of layers of the silk and here is it finished with inner elastic through the waist and all around the upper seam of the neckline. This makes the dress very easy to wear and comfortable. It simply slips on and falls perfectly in place over the body. Over the skirt is a panel of green that is set on both the front and the back of the skirt. This is attached around the waist with the side left open down the length of each side so that the pink of the skirt underneath shows. It has its original matching fabric tie belt that you can use to cinch the waist for added shape or use around the neck or even as a head wrap. The choice of these unexpected colors work surprisingly well with each other and it is made to the Galanos couture equivalent standards. The dress form does not do the dress justice as to how it works on an actual body. Excellent condition with one small note below.

The various layers of silk also act as the lining for the dress. It closes with a hand set, painted metal side zipper above the waist and then has elastic through the waist and around the upper edge of the bodice. Hidden pockets along the seams of each hip. Hand rolled edges and hand finishes throughout. It does have tiny straps that you could wear over the shoulders but I feel they are more to hang the dress so presented it as strapless. There is the faintest watermark in the silk at the waist. Please see the last photo

Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16"
Skirt: 41" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing equivalent: XS-MED

Item# DD1199

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

James Galanos was known as the designer that could rival the French in terms of construction and design. He launched his atelier in 1951 and though he was never a designer that was formally made a couture house he certainly produced clothing with many of the hallmarks that define couture, thus giving him the status as being known as one of the 'American Couturiers'. 

This dress is very unusual and I had a hard time deciding how to best have it sit on the dress form. It definitely works as a halter with the hook placed at the back of the neck. These leaves the upper back entirely bare and open and the ruffles that edge the halter run down the sides of the bust and around the neck. However, it also could potentially work with the hooks done up on the top of one shoulder. It does leave one breast exposed this way but I feel that you could wear it like this and have a bandeau underneath and it would be as amazing. You could also replace the elastic that edges the bodice and it would sit higher. The fabric is beautiful. The top layer is a floral print on a fine silk chiffon. Under that are four attached layers of a solid green silk and at the edges he has set these so each layer's edge can be seen. It gives the dress an opaqueness but it is still light as a feather. The bodice is finished with a ruffle that follows the curve of the fabric there. It wraps and hooks to close and inside there is a little label that says front on the inner waist band so you know which side to place at the front of you. The skirt wraps over itself and fall to the floor in a column of silk. It is fabulous. Excellent condition

Fully lined in the four layers of green silk. Hand finished throughout. It wraps and hooks to close. Elastic through the edge of the halter top. There is a small areas that does not seem quite as tight as the rest of it and I think you could tighten this and it would sit higher and cover the breast on that one side.

Bust: open
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bust: approx 18" from shoulder to waist but meant to drape a bit
Skirt: 43" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3398

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

James Galanos made couture-level gowns with a level of craftsmanship that were on par with the French couturiers. Galanos was a master cutter and draper and he used couture techniques in the construction of his dresses and gowns.His work is held in all of the major museums and he is one of my personal favorites.

Here he has used a beautiful, fine silk chiffon that is completely covered with a large purple flower print. The skirt is cut to have a touch of a wrapped, sarong feel to it. It is attached but set into the waist so that a part of it wraps around you and then hooks into place at the side of the waist. This gives it that lovely curved line at the front and the draping down one side that you see. It also lets you see all three layers of silk that he has constructed the skirt from. There is the top floral printed layer, a middle layer that is a solid purple in the same tone, and then the innermost  layer under those is done in an unexpected shot of green. When you move you get flashes of that green and the effect is marvelous. The bodice has a slightly scooped neck and each sleeve billows out on a pouf of fabric above its cuff. The back  of the dress closes with a series of buttons that run from the nape of the neck to the waist. The bodice is constructed with an inner top with tiny straps and then the looser top layer lies over that. It has a long matching silk sash that you can use to define the waist, or you could tie it at the neck, or use as a head scarf. Excellent condition

The inner top of the bodice acts like the lining with the sleeves left unlined. The skirt has three layers of silk chiffon to it as described above. It closes with a low, hidden set painted metal zipper that is hand set onto the interior dress. The exterior layer over the bodice closes with silk covered buttons and hook and eye. Each sleeve closes with a zipper. Bias cut so there is a little  with the measurements whoch I have given below. Appears unworn.

Sleeves: 23"
Shoulder: approx 14"
Bust: 16-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14-14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16" from shoulder to waist
Skirt: 43" from waist to hem

Scarf: 15" x approx 140"

Modern Sizing equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD1855

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

American couturier, James Galanos, made gowns with a level of craftsmanship that left even France’s most esteemed couturiers astonished that an American could equal their craft. The immaculate construction of a Galanos gowns are amazing. His price points were high, but his clients were more then willing to pay for the quality of what they received. He was a master cutter and he used proper couture techniques to create his pieces. Galanos was particularly known for his evening wear and this is one of the most glamorous pieces I have ever seen from him. It is truly extraordinary and I have never seen another like it.

This dress needs an actual body in it to really come to life. As gorgeous as it looks in my photos, it will look even better once on. The fabric is amazing. It is a black silk net that has little explosions of gold and silver covering its surface. Each of these three dimensional 'dots' is make from silver and gold tinsel lame that has been set into the net and tufts out from it. These are densely applied over every inch of the dress and each would have been done by hand. The way that these catch the light and make the entire dress glint is wonderful. The dress is cut in a classic baby doll with a high thin bodice that sits low on the bust and is suspended from the shoulder by two thin straps covered in the 3D tinsel florettes. The bust is then detailed by a band of of hand applied matte gold sequins set just underneath the bust. The skirt explodes out from under that in a  full and voluminous curve to the floor. Once on an actual body, the effect of this volume is even more pronounced. Under the top netted layer is a base of gold knit lame that adds to the metallic feel of the dress. I love how the bottom hem is finished in the same band of gold sequins that sit under the bust, even though you just barely glimpse them through the netting that lies over the inner skirt. It also comes with a matching jacket made of the same gold and silver detailed netting. This is cut loose and wide through the body with no front closures. Each sleeve of the jacket is cut wide and full. It is an extraordinary set. Excellent condition

The bodice is lined in a nude silk organza and support is added by shaping seams and grosgrain. The body of the dress is lined in a olive toned, fine silk. It closes with a back painted metal and nylon zipper. The jacket slips on with no closures.

Dress
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Under bust seam: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips at inner lining: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 11.5" from top of shoulder strap to lower edge of the sequin waist band
Skirt: 46" from lower edge of the sequin waist band to hem

Jacket
Sleeves: 21"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist-hips: open
Length: 22" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3234

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This dress was custom made, and is from the estate of 1950s model Betsy Pickering Kaiser. Betsy appeared on several Vogue covers in the 1950s and it was during that time period time period that she met Galanos. They were friends for over 60 years. She collected, and wore Galanos, her entire life and was his friend and muse. He once told her husband ‘I would rather have Betsy wear my clothes than any other woman’. She was a constant presence on the International Best Dressed List and and was added to the Best Dressed Hall of Fame in the early 1970s.

Galanos was known as the designer that could rival the French in terms of construction and design. He launched his atelier in 1951 and although his atelier was never formally designated as Haute Couture by the French, he certainly produced clothing that met the parameters of couture and he is often referred to  as one of the great American couturiers. Here, we see that high level of workmanship put into this dress. The dress is made of a light weight  black silk chiffon that is covered with a vivid floral print. The colors are bright and true with a watercolor feel and they pop against that black backdrop. Three full layers of silk are used through the body and yet the dress still weighs mere ounces. The top layer is printed and the two layers under that are a black silk chiffon. The layered effect of the silk gives it lots of movement and creates a light, floating effect when you walk. Each layer is finished with a black ribbon piping along the edges and the dress does up along each side with a series of small frog knots and loops made of the same fabric as the finishing. It is cut in a long column that skims over the body to the floor. Each side has a openings along either side and the lower frog knots are functional so that you can control how high they open slightly. The top is scooped at both the front, and the back. Both these scoops are finished with a panel of a fine black lace so that you get a transparency effect. The back is scooped very low and is only kept from being scandalous for its time period by that covering of lace. The contrast between the lightness of the silk, the see through quality of the lace and the boldness of the colors is wonderful. Excellent condition

The dress is made of three layers of silk chiffon and close with a hidden set, side zipper. Frog knots run down each side with some functional and some decorative. The slits can be close slightly with a frog knot and if you wanted them higher you could open them more. This is a one-off, unlabelled custom piece made for Betsy and came from her estate. The cut is loose and easy through the body.

Bust: 18-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 56" from top of shoulder to hem
Slits: to 28" on one side and to 23" on the other

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD3004

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Galanos was known as the designer that could rival the French in terms of construction and design. He launched his atelier in 1951 and although his atelier was never formally designated as Haute Couture by the French, he certainly produced clothing that met the parameters of couture and he is often referred to  as one of the great American couturiers. This set was custom made, and is from the estate of 1950s model Betsy Pickering Kaiser. Betsy appeared on several Vogue covers in the 1950s and it was during that time period time period that she met Galanos. They were friends for over 60 years. She collected, and wore Galanos, her entire life and was his friend and muse. He once told her husband ‘I would rather have Betsy wear my clothes than any other woman’. She was a constant presence on the International Best Dressed List and and was added to the Best Dressed Hall of Fame in the early 1970s.

The set is cut to a length befitting a model and it made of a beautifully printed, light weight silk chiffon that is combined with a metallic red lace. The silk has a romantic feeling, watercolor print covering its surface that gives the effect of oversized, abstract flowers. The pants are made of two layers of silk and weigh mere ounces. They are cut long and wide with an elastic waist that makes them easy to wear. The top portion layers over the pants and is also made of two layers of silk through the skirt. Each side is slit open right up to the lace top. This layered effect gives it lots of volume and movement and creates a light, floating effect when you walk. The bodice is made of two panels of lace, one making the back and the other the front, and these are connected along each side. He has cut them so that the sides plunge quite low for a bit of skin to show. It is almost scandalous. The lace is particularly beautiful with its metallic finish. I love how it is layered over a nude inner silk lining so that from a distance you look like you are wearing nothing underneath it. The entire top dress layer is suspended by four tiny silk straps that curve over the shoulder. The contrast between the silk and the metallic lace and the boldness of the colors is wonderful. Excellent condition with a small note to review below

The pants are made of two layers of silk chiffon and close with a back painted zipper. They have elastic at the waist. The over dress is lined with a nude silk chiffon through the bodice and the skirt is constructed from two layers of the silk chiffon. The overlay closes on one side with hidden fabric covered snaps. There are a couple of small repairs and light snags near the hem of the overlay that are minor and do not detract. This is a one-off, unlabelled custom piece made for Betsy and came from her estate. There is a little bit of play in the measurements because of the cut and elastic waist so it will fit a range of sizes. Its more on the larger size then the smaller.

Over dress
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 62" from shoulder to hem

Pants
Elastic waist: 15-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Pant: 45" from waist to hem
Inseam: 32" from inner seam to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG

Item# DD2278

Reference Photos: Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This wonderful little dress is a testament to the greatness of James Galanos who was one of the great American Couturiers. Galanos made couture-level dresses and gowns with a level of craftsmanship that left France’s most esteemed couturiers with their mouths agape. The immaculate construction of a Galanos piece oozed luxury, privilege, and high society (with price points to match). He was a master cutter and he used couture techniques. Here he uses a fine and lightweight to create this wonderful day dress. The black silk is printed with a tightly spaced clover print. I love that each clover leaf is actually a little heart. Perhaps a subtle nod to being 'lucky in love'? Every detail on it is perfect and every seam is placed to ensure that the dress falls and sits properly once on and flatters the person wearing it. There is a small discreet slit on the front at the neck and another at the back and each closes at the top with a fabric knot button. The fabric is actually folded and pleated over these so you get a very pretty and couture feeling effect. The sleeves are fantastic and each billows out above their long buttons cuffs dramatically. The skirt falls in a sleek sheath and the waist is shaped and cinched with the long matching tie. It is an amazing original Galanos piece that is very modern feeling and wearable. Excellent condition with a small note below to review.

Fully lined in a fine ivory silk chiffon except for the sleeves which are left unlined. It closes with a hand-set back painted metal zipper and each cuff buttons to close with 4 knotted fabric buttons. Pockets along each hip. Lots of other couture level details, hand finished and properly finished seam edges inside. There are a couple areas of small storage marks that get lost n the print - please see photos provided.

Sleeves: 27"
Shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 42" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD2964

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This unusual and striking Galanos dress dates to the late 1970s, early 1980s, and combines a silk twill with silk chiffon to create the layered print effect that you see. The entire dress is done in a combination of yellow and blue. The inner layer and skirt are an opaque silk twill. Over that, Galanos has then used a silk chiffon in the same two print. The two layers used this was give the pattern depth and play on the saturation of the color. The bodice has a high neck and soft drape over the bust. Each sleeve billows above the cuff and the shoulders are gathered. The back is left partially open with the slit that goes from neck to waist. The skirt has a straight cut with a side slit. There are two panels attached on either side and these meet and loop through an opening at the waist. This gives it a drape over the hip and fabric cascading down one side.  Excellent condition

The bodice is constructed from two layers of silk chiffon. The skirt is a made of a silk that is fully lined in a yellow tissue silk with silk chiffon draped overlay. The dress closes with a low painted metal zipper that starts at the waist. There are a series of hook and eye at the back of the neck and the chiffon in between is left open. Each sleeve closes with a fabric covered button.

Sleeves: 21"
Shoulder: approx 14"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 13" from neck to slight empire waist
Skirt: 41" from slight empire waist to hem

Modern Sizing equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD1119

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival