emanuel ungaro

Documented Fall 1987 Emanuel Ungaro Runway Velvet & Lace Mini Dress w Peaked Bodice

  • The twin of this dress walked the runway for the Fall 1987 collection.
  • It was made under the creative direction of Emanuel Ungaro.
  • An example of the dress is also held in the permanent archives of the China National Silk Museum Collection.
  • Ungaro launched his label in 1965 after stints at both Balenciaga and Courreges. He was a brilliant designer who was known for his extravagant fabrics and flamboyance. He often participated in the design and execution of new fabrics and for him the design process started there. His work always has a sense of exuberance and joy to it and he mixed fabric and prints with a master's eye.
  • The dress is made out of a black velvet through the body to the top of the skirt and then the lower skirt combines lace, netting and stiffened finishing around the lower inner hems that help support and hold the volume.
  • Both the fabric combination and cut of this dress are fantastic and no matter how great it looks in the photos you will love it even more in person.
  • The strapless bodice is cut across the neckline and the bodice is meant to hug the body. It is elaborately gathered and fitted around the bust and body with a series of soft gathered folds that angle in towards the sides.
  • The top of the bodice is cut with a curve on one side and a peak on the other. We have left the peak folded up for the photos but you could potentially fold it over more once it is on the body if you prefer that look.
  • I love how the gathering is done to emphasize the cut of the bodice and then changes slightly through the waist and over the hips to a more horizontal line to give you added shape.
  • These folds that emphasized the curves of the body were a signature of his and really made his pieces flattering once on.
  • The seam where the skirting starts is set on a slight angle and then the skirt itself is a double layer of netting with bands of stiffened finishing along the hems. The layers are stacked on top of each other with a layer of black lace floating over that.
  • There is an incredible amount of fabric in a skirt and it falls in swirls and folds all the way around you. I love the unusual shape with one side longer than the other. It is just phenomenal.
  • Inside where the skirt attaches it has been gathered up and folded with padding put inside and this acts as a little bit of support to help hold the volume of the skirt.
  • It is a gorgeous piece and it appears to have been worn very little if at all. An amazing piece of fashion history.
  • The bodice is fully lined in a black silk and there is light boning through the inside dress for structure, including partway down the sides to give you support. The skirt is made of three layers as described above. I have taken a photo of the way the padding is constructed just inside the top of the inner skirt for you to see.
  • Tagged a Ungaro 6
  • Excellent condition

Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 31" from top of the rounded side of the bodice to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD5565

Reference Photos: (1) Fall 1987 Emanuel Ungaro RTW.  /  (2) Emanuel Ungaro dress in the China National Silk Museum Collection.

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