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The Leonard Paris label began as a textile firm in 1954 and for the first four years of its existence it only produced fabric. In 1958 they started making garments but it was not until about 1970 when they started using a printed silk jersey for the majority of their collections that the label really took off. They are often compared to Pucci and during the seventies the two labels battled it out to be the label of choice for the jet set.
I love whenever I get a fabulous Leonard dress into the shop. They are so chic. They are also very easy to wear and travel with. This one is a real beauty. It is made out of one of their signature silk jersey fabrics combined with a silk chiffon for the sleeves. This silk jersey fabric choice is what gives these dresses their perfect drape and fit. Each of their dresses were made of a custom designed print. The dress has a solid black full length skirt topped by that pretty bodice. The floral print runs over the sleeves and the entire upper bodice. The colours are a beautiful mix of pinks, pale purples, ivory, taupe and black. The flower print is large and very pretty. At the front the bodice plunges right to the slightly high set waist. At the base of the plunge is a tie that extends out from the fabric on either side of the bust and lets you to pull it in and adds the prettiest detail. The tie is silk jersey on one side and silk chiffon on the other. Each sleeve is cut to puff and balloon out over the jersey cuffs. The sleeves are made of a silk chiffon so have the added charm of being slightly transparent. Under that the skirt skims over the body and flares out slightly as it nears the hem. I love the contrasting borders that define the neckline, cuffs and waist. It is a beauty. Excellent condition.
Unlined and closes with a back zipper. The fabric does have some stretch and I have put the comfortable range of measurements when laying flat below. The printed part of the fabric is signed throughout. Each sleeve buttons to close on the cuff.
Sleeves: approx 25.5" and are very full through the upper arm
Shoulders: 14-15"
Bust: 16-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5"-15 flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20-25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 13" from top of shoulder to top of the printed band at the waist
Total length: 61" from top of the shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5006
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Pauline Trigere launched her label in 1942. She was from Paris and moved to the US in 1937. That early French influence showed throughout her career. In 1949 she was awarded her first Coty award. She won it again in both 1951 and 1959. The 1959 win coincided with being inducted into the Coty Fashion Hall of Fame. She was a pioneer in the use of cottons and wool for evening and her work with silks is wonderful. In 1961 she made headlines for being the first major fashion house to use an African American model. This is a great and very wearable piece.
The jumpsuit is made out of a soft black wool jersey. The cut is very simple and easy and it is cut very generously through the waist. You could also belt it if you want to add shape and then it takes on a completely different look. I added a ribbon for a couple of the shots here so you could get an idea of that. It has a neat little collar at the front that is tacked down so that it sits perfectly at all times. It closes with a deep front zipper so you can actually open this as low as you dare. The sleeves are long and narrow down slightly as they reach the cuffs. There is light padding in the shoulders to help hold the shape. A decorative detail on each hip suggests pockets but without adding the bulk a pocket would add. The legs are cut straight and wide all the way down to their ends. I love the simplicity of it. Excellent condition with a minor note below
Fully lined in a black silk except for the sleeves. It zippers to close at the front. Light padding in each shoulder. Hand finishes throughout. I see a tiny area where the wool has a bit of thinning at the front. Please see the photo after the label shot. The ribbon at the waist in some shots is not original to the jumpsuit but will be included.
Sleeves: 24.5" and are 12" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 15.5"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19-21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 59" from neck to hem with 3" turned under the hem
Inseam: 30.5"
Gusset: 32" from the back of the neck to the inner seam
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5007
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After much research I believe this to be from the Spring 1979 collection for Chloe by Karl Lagerfeld. In this collection he moved away from 1940s as his inspiration into the sex appeal of the 1950s, said the book 'Chloe Catwalk'. The silhouettes were based on the hourglass. In that same book there was a very similar floral pattern shown that is on this piece. Gathers emphasized hips, which this has, and the waist was emphasized. Feathers and the rooster were a part of both the prints and the accessories. Lagerfeld said of the collection to the press "Frivolity is important. I want shape and sensualness."
The dress is made from one of his signature feather light silks of this time period for Chloe that feel like magic on. It is screened with a custom print that mixes an ivory, pastel coral and a pale lavender purple. The entire dress is unlined and this is what helps to keep the dress so light in weight. An interesting detail is that the labels are on the side of the dress that I think is the front. The side that has the deep plunge is longer in length at the hem so I believe that should be the back. I have seen other dresses with this label placement from around this time period and when the back is plunged like this, so it is not unusual to see. I have photoed it both ways for you, with the plunge at the back and the front. You could potentially wear the plunge at the front if you don't mind the longer hem at the front. Much like that Lacroix dress from me that was worn to the Met Gala a couple years ago when they turned it around backwards. The sleeves are long and it skims over the bust to the waist. The back plunges into a low V to just above the waist. As mentioned above, it is possible that you could wear it either way around. It is incredibly sexy worn either way. The waist is seamed and the dress comes with it original striped screened silk belt that hooks into place around you. The stripes on the belt pick up the stripes that are on the end of each sleeve and circle around the hem. The skirt curves over the hips and there is a gathering of the silk there for added shape. It falls to the floor from there with the back cut longer then the front for a slight trained effect. You get the most fantastic movement as you walk. The dress is in its original uncut length. Excellent overall condition with a note below.
Unlined and closes with a back zipper. Hand finishes throughout. There is light fading to the fabric here and there at the top of the shoulders and edges of the hems where there is the purple in particular. This all looks to be hand dyed and or screened and it presents perfectly once on. The belt hooks to close. It is amazing.
Sleeves: 22.5" and are 11" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16.5" from neck to waist
Total length: 60" from neck to front hem, 68" to the back hem with about 2" turned under the hem
Belt: 2.5" wide x 27" long where the hooks currently sit.
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5008
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christian dior
Cruise 2014 Christian Dior by Raf Simons Runway Look 29 Silk Shift Dress w Fabric Applique
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This is a stunning Christian Dior dress by Raf Simons from the Cruise 2014 collection. Its twin walk the runway for Look 29 in the show. The feel of this dress was an integral look in the show with several variations of pieces showing that had the inset fabric panels walking the runway. It is a very pretty dress and perfectly representative of Raf's time at the label and what his vision for Dior looked like. This was Raf playing with the house codes and feel of the 1960s and making it fresh for a new Dior client.
This dress is so simple and yet cut so beautifully. It has a sleek and simple shape that skims over the body and flares out slightly as it nears the hem. It has no sleeves and the neck is scooped. It has an easy cut that skims over the bust, waist and hips in a little A-line that flares out slightly as it nears the hem. The fabric is an ivory silk that is very light in weight. This is backed with a silk chiffon to help with the structure and hold the shape. It has a pretty design on the front and panels that wrap all the way around the lower part of the dress, and these are all made from the application of fabric onto the base silk. It is so pretty. Excellent condition
Fully lined in an ivory silk chiffon and it closes with a back hidden set zipper. Perhaps the tiniest bit of grubbiness here and there along the edges. Tagged a Dior F36, GB8, IT40, US4
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 37" from the top of the shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5003
Reference Photos/Video: Resort 2014 Christian Dior, Look 29. Model Nastya Kusakina.
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On the runway this same fabric was used for a dress but for production they also produced it as this skirt. Vogue's Sarah Mower said in part of this collection; 'This time, her (Miuccia Prada) address seemed aimed directly to youth. There were cycling shorts and duchesse satin A-line tunics and baby doll dresses; plunging bodysuits with straps under the breasts; sheer black knee-highs implanted with Prada’s triangular logos; and iterations of her ’60s–’70s throwback print jersey ladylike coats, all of it topped off with puffy Alice bands. “I wanted to break the rules of the classic,” she said. “To discuss a wish of freedom and liberation and fantasy, and, on the other side, the extreme conservatism that is coming—the duality out there.' This skirt is an amazing example of just how detailed the Prada label can get with their pieces.
Pieces from this collection sold out worldwide and were wait-listed everywhere. It is an incredible testament to her ability to take the most unusual ideas and make them feel fresh. The skirt is made from one of her signature smooth finished silks that has a slight sheen-like finish to it. It was then specialty dyed to give it a almost tie dye finish. The colours are a spectacular combination of that bright green that fades to a lighter shade ivory and a deep charcoal. It is more fitted around the waist and then falls outwards to widen out by the time it reaches the hem. Onto the front of the skirt are several medallions of intricate bead work. These combine a variety of different size large beads and are all hand placed and sewn. They are thick enough that they sit right off of the fabric. This look has really become a Prada hallmark and you see it on some of their most special pieces. It is just gorgeous. A skirt is a very easy way to work a strong statement piece of vintage into your wardrobe. It would work equally as well for day or the evening. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a white silk and closes with a back hidden set zipper. I see one tiny chip out of one of the beads and I see a tiny faint mark near the waist that might be a part of the dye process. At some point, it was let out at the side and you can see a faint line of where that was done. I see a couple bees missing off the smallest medallion. Please see the photos after the label shot. It otherwise appears to have been worn very little if at all.
Waist: 14.25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 30" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5004
Reference Photo: Spring 2019 Prada, Look 49.
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This Spring 2014 dress is one of the most photographed and best known of all of the Chanel pieces that Karl ever created. This is the second time we have had it in the shop and its as wonderful if not more this time. It has a spectacular provenance and there are probably even more examples of it being photoed and worn that season that we have yet to find. It's twin was Look 84 on the runway and it was instantly snapped up to be photoed on Keira Knightley for the Harper's Bazaar cover. It, and other variations in this print, also appeared on Vogue China, Czechia, Netherlands and Korea editions, InStyle magazine and many, many, other publications. The range of models and celebrities who wore this dress is as vast ranging from Sarah Jessica Parker, to Rita Ora, and Karolina Kurkova to name just a few.
Vogue's review of the piece stated that 'The Grand Palais was transformed into a gigantic white-walled hangar of paintings and sculptures—quintessential Basel or Frieze—all seventy-five of them made by Lagerfeld during his Summer of Prodigious Creativity. He didn't actually create them himself—that feat would be too Olympian even for Karl—but he drew the pieces or made maquettes so his studio could realize the finished product. The coming together of concept and design was clearly responsible for the way Lagerfeld's theme infected his collection to a greater degree than usual.... Deconstruction, trompe l'oeil, collage, bricolage—this Chanel collection was a fest of art processes. You never get the sense that Lagerfeld is pushing himself; he makes everything look much too easy for that. Nevertheless, in the ninety-ish looks he showed today, there were more stories than he would usually be bothered to tell.' They mention the series of dress that used this print specifically saying; 'a paint chart from the 1900s yielded a whole group of primally Pantone-ed pieces.' There were 14 pieces presented that made up the final group, that had variations of this print on them. This dress that was the one that was photoed the most and pulled by all the editors and sold out worldwide. It was without a doubt the dress of the collection.
The dress combines a stunning light scarf weight silk that has that beautiful Pantone palette in all the colours of the rainbow in a print that travels horizontally over its surface. The dress is suspended from the shoulders by tiny silk straps. The bust has been covered in a painted white lace. This stiffens the lace underneath and gives it an unusual texture that is quite beautiful. The lace is then backed by a nude silk netting. The bodice skims over you to a dropped and generous waist seam that sits at the top of the hips. Under that the skirt widens out as it nears the hem. A wide band of lace is set around the entire lower part of the hem. It is a clever way to add a bit of weight to the dress so that it falls perfectly once on the body. The skirt is cut to be shorter at the front and is fuller & longer at the back. You can see in the runway video how beautifully this allows the dress to move when you walk. On the runway Karl belted it above that dropped seam for added shape. For many of the editorial shots it was worn without a belt and I love that you have the option to wear it either way. It really changes the look of the dress if you did belt it. It is gorgeous. Excellent condition.
The dress is fully lined through the bodice in a nude silk behind the bust area and an ivory silk to the waist. The skirt is unlined. The lower lace part has a backing of two layers of silk tulle. It closes with a hidden set back zipper and snaps above that. Tagged a Chanel 38
Bust: 16.5-17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: to 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Dropped seam at top of hip: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 20" from top of straps to dropped seam
Full Length: 38" from top of straps to shortest point of the front hem, 50" longest point of the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD5005
Reference Photos/Video: (1-6) Spring 2014 Chanel Runway, Look 84. Model Binx Walton. / (7) Keira Knightley for Harpers Bazaar, February 2014. / (8) Fei Fei Sun for Neiman Marcus, February 2014. / (9) Vlada Roslyakova by Ellen Von Unwerth for Numero Tokyo, April 2014. / (10) Photo by Mario Testino for Vogue China, March 2014. / (11) Robin Holzken for Telva Magazine, April 2014. / (12) Vogue Czechia, July 2014. / (13) Vogue Girl Korea, April 2014. / (14) Myself Germany, April 2014. / (15) Phoebe Tonkin in Chanel at the Humane Society Gala, March 2014. / (16) Sarah Jessica Parker for InStyle UK, May 2014. / (17) Karolina Kurkova for Harper’s Bazaar Malaysia February 2014. / (18) Rita Ora in Chanel at BET Studios, May 2014. / (19) Vogue Netherlands March 2014.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

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Anna Molinari and husband Gianpaolo Tarabini launched the Blumarine label in 1977 out of Capri and had their first catwalk show in 1980. By the 1990s they had opened their first stand alone shop. This is from the 2000s Sposa wedding collection and it is a really pretty dress.
This dress is so romantic feeling. It has a V at the front and the back and there are panels of chiffon that angle over the bust. At the sides the chiffon extends out into little cape sleeves that draped down and over the upper arm. This continues around to the back so you get this pretty soft feel all the way around. The edges are embroidered with ivory ribbon and blue thread to form little bows and flowers. The body of the dress skims over you from the bodice to the hips with a touch of shape near the waist area. It falls to the floor from there and gradually widens out as it hears the hem. The back is cut longer than the front so that it trails out behind you and gives you that beautiful sweeping trained skirt. More of the same embroidery runs around the hem with pretty little ribbon bows set around the skirt for the final perfect touch. It still has its original tag and appears to have never been worn. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
Fully lined in a silky feeling ivory rayon and closes at the back with a hidden set zipper. Original hang tag attached. Some of the little organza flowers within the embroidery have darkened with time and oxidization. The dress appears to have been worn very little if at all. Tagged a 44
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under the bust: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: to 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 13.5" from top of shoulder to the seam under the bust
Total length: 60" from top of shoulder to front hem and extends another 18" beyond that at the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5001
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

philip hulitar
Elegant 1950s Philip Hulitar Couture Gathered Front Panel Champagne Strapess Silk Dress
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Philip Hulitar designed from 1949 to his retirement in 1964 so his pieces fall in a very defined period of time. He was known for his sophisticated dresses and evening gowns. Shortly after the launch of his label a journalist gushed that; 'The star of a gifted designer has risen recently on the fashion horizon'. Prior to the launch of his label he was the in-house designer and head of the women's dress division for Bergdorf Goodmans for 18 years. His work is amazing. It would obviously make an amazing wedding dress for a bride but I think it is also a dress that could cross over and be worn to other events. It is just beautiful.
The fabric on this dress is a rich ivory champagne coloured silk and the cut of the dress is magical. The bodice is strapless and it is lightly boned to help to hold the shape once it is on the body. A little bow sits on one side to add pretty detail. The waist nips in and then the skirt curves out and over the hips. It widens from there to the floor in a stunning expanse of silk.Running down the centre of the front and also down the back are inset panels made out of the same silk. The silk has been hand gathered inside of each of those panels. I love how they add to the hourglass shape the dress has. The back is cut slightly longer for a beautiful sweep of fabric as you walk. It is a beautiful and rare piece of 1950s couture. Excellent condition with small notes below.
Fully lined in a tea coloured silk organza and closes at the back with a hand set metal zipper. Hand finishes throughout. Boning through the bodice. The inner lining has some changes in colour throughout. I see a tiny foxing mark on one side of the outer skirt and there are minor areas of shattering along the edges under each arm. Please see the photos after the label shot. Beautifully made.
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam with room to a C cup at the front
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 53" from top of bodice to front hem and 62" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4373
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

alexander mcqueen
Dreamy Resort 2018 Chloe Printed Silk Chiffon Caftan Dress w Flowing Sleeves & Skirt
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The Chloé Resort 2018 collection was the transition collection between the creative direction from Clare Waight Keller to Natacha Ramsay-Levi. This collections was designed by the in house team and they stuck to the house signatures including this very bohemian and easy to wear dress that feels utterly Chloe. Its twin was Look 20 in the line up and I love how it feels so thoroughly in line with what is on the catwalk even now.
The dress is made from a top layer of that pretty printed silk chiffon and then there is an inner layer of a pale nude pink silk underneath. This keeps the dress very light and airy in weight. The neckline comes down in a V at the front and the sleeves extend out from the shoulders at the top and then from the top of the band at the waist. This makes them very wide and full as they drape down and over the arms. It is really what gives it that slightly caftan feel that the dress has. I love it. A more generously cut band circles your waist and it is done in the same order pattern that highlights the neckline, runs down the skirt and across the sleeves. The skirt flows to the floor under that and widen out quite dramatically by the hem. There is quite a lot of fabric in the skirt and it is cut so the sides are a touch longer. This gives the dress tremendous movement once it is on and you are moving. It is all softly gathered into the waist and then falls outwards to the floor. The lightness of the chiffon allows it to float and billow around you as you walk and move. It is spectacular. I love the gorgeous print that covers the entire dress and you can tell that it was all pre-planned to highlight the curves and beauty of the piece. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
Fully lined in a soft pale peach silk with the sleeves unlined. It closes with a side set zipper. A teeny nick near the zipper that you don't see once its on. The easy cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes. Tagged a modern Chloe 38
Sleeves: fall to approx 21" and are open around the upper arms
Shoulders: no true defined seam
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 13" from top of shoulder to band at the waist
Total Length: approx 65" from shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD5000
Reference Photo: Resort 2018 Chloe, Look 20.
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This set is just absolutely gorgeous and pieces like this from her are getting increasingly hard to find, so it is a true treasure. The print on this one was featured both on the runway and in the ad campaign. A very close version of it walked the runway that season. It is absolutely gorgeous and a rare find. Hanae was the first woman of Japanese descent to have presented on the Paris and New York runways and the first Asian woman to be admitted as an official Haute Couture house to La Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. Her work is exceptional. Hanae Mori excelled at creating beautiful prints and they always have a hauntingly organic feel to them as she was constantly inspired by nature.
This is everything you look for in a piece by Hanae Mori. The entire piece has one of her custom designed prints screened onto a feather light silk chiffon. Think the finest silk scarf you could have in terms of weight and feel. It has all been printed with a really outstanding oversized floral design and the colour combination is fantastic. It is two separate pieces. There is the inner dress and then you wear the more caped feeling overlay over that. The inner dress is sleeveless and is suspended from tiny straps that curb over the shoulder. It's very easy to wear as it is meant to just skim down and over the entire body in a long column of fabric. This inner dress has a fine pleat set vertically into the silk and this lets it have extra movement when you move and gives it an extra detailing and texture that contrasts with the gorgeous flowers that cover it. It is lined in a pale taupe silk and the entire dress is extremely light in weight. The flower design starts out in soft taupes at the top of the dress and changes to that stunning pastel coral colour for the bottom half of the dress. The caped piece that goes over this is spectacular. It slips over the head to wear and the neckline is set in a wide slit across the top. It is shaped to be two long, rectangles attached across the top on either side of the neck opening and when this is on this, it lets the sides drape down longer around you. On the cape, the coral is set more towards one side and I love that she did it towards the edge on one panel and towards the other edge on the other panel. There is no true front or back so you can choose to wear it on whatever side you wish. When on, that top layer gives the dress a more caftan feel. As with the best of Hanae's dresses, the effect of having the same print on the top layer and the inner layer gives the design added dimension and depth as they float over each other. The movement and drama this creates is extraordinary. This is a piece that you slip on and feel completely comfortable when wearing it and yet it has as much drama and impact as you could ask for. It is a stunning example of her work and beautifully made. I love it. Excellent condition
The cape is unlined and the dress is lined as described above. The lining of the dress zips to close at the back with a series of tiny snaps over that on the outer layer. The edges of the cape and hem of the dress have been hand rolled and stitched. Tagged a vintage 8. It appears to have been worn very little if at all
Dress
Bust: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 59" from back of neck to inner seam
Cape overlay
Neck opening: 13.5" across
Width: 59" from side to side at the widest point
Length: 35" and falls to approx 51" to longest point when on
Item# DD4999
Reference Photo: (1-2) Spring 1978 Hanae Mori Runway. / (3) Spring 1978 Hanae Mori Bergdorf Goodman Ad.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

alexander mcqueen
Amazing Spring 2004 Alexander McQueen 'Deliverance' Two Piece Set Floral Silk Chiffon Set
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This two piece set is from the Spring 2004 season at McQueen and it is fantastic. In the show, he did a dress in the same print. This set version would have been produced for the shops in limited quantities. The FIDM Museum said of the show; "Deliverance, Alexander McQueen’s Spring/Summer 2004 fashion show was the hit of the season. Based on the 1969 film, "They Shoot Horses, Don’t They?" Deliverance subverted the typical fashion show narrative by reversing the order of presentation; evening gowns kicked off the extravaganza while faux-homespun daywear and a tarnished evening gown concluded the show. This narrative mirrored the film, which documents a Depression-era dance marathon. In order to earn a cash prize the hopeful participants must dance for days with only brief breaks for food and short naps. Lack of sleep and food, paired with non-stop dancing, drives the dancers to the point of emotional and physical collapse and ends in tragedy... 20 trained dancers paired with 20 models, all of whom rehearsed for two weeks. Deliverance began with models and dancers moving about the dance floor with a sense of eagerness and purpose, dressed in delicate gowns. By the end of the show, the dancer/models struggle to stay upright while dressed in patchwork garments representative of their overall decline.The emotional and physical deterioration in Deliverance is typical of McQueen’s work, which frequently explores themes related to violence and decay. Garments, particularly in his early collections, are often intentionally cut and torn and his fashion shows have been called a “theatrical staging of cruelty.”Though it almost seems counterintuitive, McQueen has expressed a strong interest in creating a feminine persona that is intimidating in its visual power."
I love the strong nod to the bias cut pieces of the 1920s and 1930s that this set has and how once you tuck in the top it has that feel of dress. It glides over the body spectacularly. The fabric is fantastically light and easy against the skin. It is a bias cut silk chiffon backed in a nude pink silk organza for the skirt and an ivory silk chiffon on the top. Even with a double layer of silk both pieces weigh ounces. Onto it is a beautiful floral pattern that covers the entire set. It is impossible to convey the lightness and movement that this has in person. The neckline of the top falls into a shallow V at the front and the silk is meant to just skim over the bust and waist. Straps curve over the shoulders and there is a soft little knot at the front for details. The bottom flares out just a touch and it's cut extra long so once you tuck it into the skirt, it stays in place. The skirt is cut with a wider more generous waist. The top portion of the skirt is a wide band of silk and I think once this is on a proper body, it will either sit on the top of your hips, slung a little low, or you could wear it higher up on the waist. A tiny row of hand set mother-of-pearl buttons runs down on an angle at the back, adding a sweet little detail. Below that the skirt flares out quite dramatically. The front is cut a bit shorter and then it hangs far longer down the back. The inner organza is left to float separately from the top layer so as you move, you get the sense of the two layers. When you move the skirt swoops out with a ton of fabric and then falls in soft folds all the way around you when you stand. It is breathtaking. This is a stunning and rare McQueen and showcases just what a master cutter he was. Excellent condition.
The top has a lining of a pale ivory, silk chiffon, and the skirt is lined with a pale nude, pink silk organza. The top closes with a hidden set side zipper, and the skirt has buttons angled down the back from the waist. Both pieces are tagged a vintage MCQueen 44. They appear to have been worn very little if at all. The bias cut allows it some give and I have given the comfortable range of measurements below.
Top
Bust: 16-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 23.5" from top of shoulder to hem
Skirt
Waist: 15 cancel" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17-19 cancel cancel" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 24" from waist to shortest part of the front hem, 46" to the longest point of the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4998
Reference Photos: Spring 2004 Alexander McQueen. Model Karen Elson.
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christian dior
Cruise 2008 Christian Dior by John Galliano Embellished One Shoulder Black Silk Chiffon Dress
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This gorgeous little dress was a dress was based on a combination of Looks 10 and Look 52. This version has been done in all black, it has the one shoulder cut of Look 10 combined with the bead work and embellishments that you see on look 52. Vogue said that the collection was done "in an electric-bright palette.. and channelled Barbara Hutton's sixties—a glittery, lame, paisley, and leopard-print world of muumuus, bikinis, capri pants, trapeze dresses, cat-eye sunglasses, and scarf-wrapped hats. It bordered on camp... and Kitschy or not, there was no denying the workmanship that went into crafting the large collection." I love that the photo of the blue dress still shows you how fantastic this is on the body.
The dress is made out of a black silk chiffon that has a slight bit of texture to it. It is cut on the bias with seaming at the waist for a bit of structure. The wide shoulder panel curves over to the back and at the front it drapes across the bust. On both sides of the bodice there is a spray of intricate floral appliques detailed with black jet beads and sequins. These catch the light beautifully as you move. The waist nips in and the dress comes with its original belt that lets you cinch the waist in as much as you like. I love the big jewel buckle of the belt. The skirt flares out under that to the hem. There is a good amount of silk chiffon through the skirt which gives you gorgeous movement when you move. It is stunning. A signature row of tightly spaced buttons run up one side. A very pretty and wearable example of his work. Excellent condition with a small note below
Fully lined in a black silk and closes at the side with a series of silk covered buttons. The belt comes in its original Dior pouch. I see one tiny hole near the hem. Please see the photo after the label shot. Tagged a FR42, GB14, IT46, US10.
Inner bust: 18.25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14.75" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 18" from the top of the shoulder to the waist and meant to blouse over the waist a bit
Total length: 42" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4800
Reference Photos: Cruise 2008 Christian Dior. (1) Look 10. Model Chanel Iman. / (2) Look 52. Model Mariya Markina.
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Angelo Tarlazzi started his career at the roman couture-house, Carosa where he spent 4 years before joining the Jean Patou atelier in 1965 as an assistant. He left for a short stint as a freelancer and then came back Patou to head the couture division in 1972. He remained there till 1977. He launched his own label that same year and continued with that until 1998. While designing his own label he also headed the Guy Laroche couture division from 1989-1993 and then was also Carven's artistic director from 1995-1998. This dress is from the 1990-1991 time period and while we did not find this exact version on the runway, I have included a few shots of similar pieces so you can get an idea of how it will look like on the body.
The dress form does not do this dress justice at all because it needs a body under it to fill out the curves. It is very fitted and the entire dress is gathered all through the body and the sleeves. That gathering lets you adjust the length so that you can wear it from a micro mini length to a regular mini length with a simple pulling up or pulling down of the hem. The fabric is a stretch jersey that mixes silk with a touch of spandex to feel incredible on the body. Large gold buttons run down the front and are tightly spaced together. Each is a double stacked row of gold metal with a large glass rhinestone at its centre. The sleeves are long and are gathered along their inside edge so that they are gathered all the way up the arm. The front plunges into a wide V and because of the stretch of the fabric you can wear the dress on or off the shoulder. I have shown it both ways, and you could wear this very low on the shoulders as well. It is an incredible little dress. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a stretch lingerie jersey through the body and closes with a hidden set zipper at the side. The fabric has a remarkable amount of stretch so I have put the comfortable range of measurements. You might be able to get a little more if needed.
Sleeves: approx 27" and each upper arm or stretched to a approx 10-14" around
Shoulders: no defined scene
Bust: 14-19 " flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 11-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 13-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: approx 32" from top of shoulder to hem and can be shortened to wherever you wish
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-MED
Item# DD4997
Reference Photos: (1) Fall 1990 Angelo Tarlazzi Runway. Model: Yasmeen Ghauri. / (2-5) Fall 1991 Angelo Tarlazzi Runway.
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Arnold Scaasi was born Arnold Isaacs in Montreal and the name Scassi is simply his own surname in reverse. He studied in Montreal and in Paris, apprenticed at the house of Paquin and then worked with the legendary Charles James. In 1964 he opened own couture salon. He dressed Hollywood stars like Lauren Bacall, Diahann Carroll and Elizabeth Taylor. He dressed several first ladies including Mamie Eisenhower, Hillary Clinton and both the Bush first ladies. He even once bragged that he refused to give Jackie clothes for free. He was the man behind the scandalous 1969 Barbra Streisand sheer trouser outfit that she collected her Oscar in, and he was presented with the Council of Fashion Designers of America Lifetime Achievement Award in 1996. The dress is from his main label and these were very well made.
This great little Arnold Scassi dress is just fantastic. The fabric used for this dress is equally fantastic. It is a black net with embroidered dots that cover the entire surface. Onto the skirt are little cut out organza flowers that are applied in rows. The bottom of the skirt changes from netting to a silk organza that has larger versions of the embroidered and organza flowers to create the lower hem. One side of the skirt is scooped up with a little cluster of the flowers to hold it in place. More of the cut outs are scattered over the bottom part of the hem. Underneath the skirt are two doubled over layers of silk tulle that give the dress the volume that you see. The bodice is strapless and the netting has been gathered vertically all the way around to create soft gathers. A wide band sits just under that to give a beautiful cinched in feel. Excellent condition with a small note below.
Fully lined in a black silk through the bodice and the skirt is lined with layers of black tulle. Lightly boned through the bodice. It closes with a back zipper. I see some separation around the hem near the bottom here and there between the embroidered edges and organza on the flowers. Please see the photo after the label shot for an example. Hand finishes
Bust: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam at top of band under the bust: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam at the bottom of the band: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 6.5" from top of bodice to seam under the bust and the band is 3.5" wide
Total length: 51" from top of the bodice to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS
Item# DD4996
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alexander mcqueen
Spring 2009 Alexander McQueen Runway 'Natural Dis-tinctions, Un-Natural Selection' Crystal Print Dress
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The program notes told the audience of the Spring 2009 runway show that Mcqueen had been thinking of Charles Darwin's theory of the survival of the fittest and 'the deleterious results of industrialization on the natural world'. The show was title 'Natural Dis-tinctions, Un-Natural Selection' and the McQueen book notes that 'the cat walk was filled with antique taxidermy, including an elephant giraffe tagger zebra and polar bear, in an art space that was formally of Paris morgue.' The twin of the dress was a part of the second portion of the show that was meant to 'continue to draw inspiration from natural forms, flowers, crystals and minerals, but here they were engineer with a hard as an enhanced to convey the synthetic qualities associated with modernity and human touch. Prints were angular and invoked crushed crystal, metallic structures such as the Eiffel tower and a granite mountain that was borrowed from a Dan Holdsworth triptych.' This collection was noted as being one of his most commercial to date during this time period and these print pieces especially had instant appeal.
This is a very recognizable piece that can instantly identify as being a McQueen. The colours are amazing. The fabric is almost like a neoprene in the way it looks and feels and yet it is not a true neoprene. It is lighter and thinner with just enough weight to it to hold the shape but without it feeling restrictive on the body. The shape is built into the dress beginning at the shoulders. Each is lightly padded so that they sit up on top of the shoulders. It skims over the bust, nips in at the waist and then curves out at the hips. Even when laying flat you can see the shape built into the dress. At the neckline there is a keyhole that has a nude netting in behind it. I love the way that the seams at the hip curve in and over the waist to just under the bust. This precise seaming and cut are all done to give that exact shape that he wished the piece to have. When styled on the runway with the plastered hair around the face it had an almost alien feel to it that was fantastic. The dress looks to have never been worn and is in mint condition. It is an extraordinary piece of Alexander McQueen history and having a runaway pieces from him in the shop are always an exceptional thing. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a ivory tissue silk and it closes at the back with a hidden set zipper. Tagged a McQueen 38. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.
Bust: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam with room for an A-small B cut at the front
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 32" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4360
Reference Photos/Video: (1-2) Spring 2009 Alexander McQueen Runway, Look 24. Model Alex Sandor. / (3) Page from the book 'Alexander McQueen' edited by Claire Wilcox.
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guy laroche
Fall 1994 Guy Laroche Haute Couture Runway Wide Sleeve Dress w Cumberbund & Back Skirt Panel
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Guy Laroche began working for Jean Desses in 1949 and eventually launched his own Haute Couture label in 1957 as a full member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Parisienne. He became known for his colour sense along with the young and sexy look of his clothing comparison to the older more established couturiers. In 1985 he won the Haute Couture Golden Thimble award and two years later he was awarded the insignia of Chevalier de L’Ordre de la Legion d’Honneur. His second Golden Thimble was given posthumously after his death in 1989. Michel Klein took over the couture division where he remained until 1996. This dress is from Klein's tenure and it is a beautiful example of the work he was doing during there. Laroche once was quoted as saying “It is my intention to try and adapt haute couture to modern requirements: to make dresses that are simple and chic.” and I feel that this dress tries to live up to that thought while still maintaining the feel that couture had during the mid-nineties.
This is the type of piece that is so bold and edgy that you will only ever find it in a Couture piece. It has some subtle differences from the runway version which is normal for couture since each piece is fitted to the client. The bodice is scooped wider across and the back skirt feels longer. A long panel has been added that falls down the back and matches the colour and fabric of the skirt. The pale taupe inner dress is a mini in length with a panel of silk attached at the side and back. The long skirt that is attached over that is done on a soft olive green silk. This part falls to the floor in a long smooth drape of fabric. A wide deep blue/black silk band wraps around the waist for shape. This narrows down at one end and hooks into place under a long swooping gold brooch which I believe is gold plated. A long panel is attached at the back and while I have left it extending down you could probably be clever and tie it to create a bow if you wished to emulate the runway photo more. The sleeves are spectacular. They are the same deep blue-black colour but in a silk chiffon and are cut extra long. They are very wide and full and this lets the hem to fall at an angle when your arms are down. The softness and transparency the sleeves have are the perfect contrast to the rich silk the rest of the dress is made from. It is a very unusual and uniquely gorgeous dress. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
Fully lined in hand set silk that matches the colours of the various exterior silks. The sleeves are unlined. The dress closes with a hand set hidden back zipper and then there is another zipper that closes the inner mini skirt. The sash at the waist wraps and hooks into place. The brooch is detachable and shows a sight patina. Proper couture label present. The dress is entirely made by hand to Haute Couture standards. The inner silk of the long skirt is scuffed near the hem and I see slight grubbiness along the hem on parts. Please see the shot after the label photo.
Sleeves: 34" to the longest point
Inset shoulders: 12"
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Mini dress length: 31" from top of shoulder to hem
Full Length: 60" from shoulder to longest point of the hem
Waist sash: 26.5" in length to where the hooks presently sit with an extension past that that wraps and hooks into place
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4012
Reference Photo: Fall 1994 Guy Laroche Haute Couture Runway Collection on Kirsty Hume.
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gucci
Spring 2003 Gucci by Tom Ford Rare Runway Look 27 Plunge Front Feather Mini Dress
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This is the twin of Look 27 from the runway and it is an exceptional piece of Gucci history. It was featured in Vogue that season on Natalia Vodianova and I love that these show you how great this is on the body. The Vogue review said 'The Gucci girl’s got legs—long, tan, flawless ones striding along on silver peep-toe sling-back pumps. Follow them all the way up, and around two weeks later, they eventually meet the hem of the minutest piece of clothing that was ever called a skirt or dress. For spring, in a word, Tom Ford says short. Using lustrous fabrics in subtle makeup colors from blush to tawny brown, pearly gray and silver, Ford draped and wrapped his gorgeous girls in clothes that navigated that dangerous Gucci line between innovation and vulgarity. The tousled hair, the jackets and tops poised to fall off shoulders—the whole presentation stirred sensations that fashion hasn’t felt since the last days of the great supermodels. Still, don’t think tacky. Ford’s obsession now is integrating fine workmanship into abbreviated silhouettes." The feather dresses were mentioned specifically; "He brought couture finesse to racer-back feathered dresses with the merest flip of a skirt....it was a confident statement in the power of glamour. And fashion needs that.' To this day this is one of the most recognizable of his pieces.
This dress is thought of as one of the top ten Gucci pieces that Tom Ford designed. The dress is meant to be worn very short and daring. It shows off miles of legs. The top plunges low at the front and the back curves in to create a racer-back leaving your back bare on either side. It skims over the waist and hips and then flares out at the skirt. The skirt has two tiers of feather detailed ruffles and this extra little flounce gives it movement when you move. It is made from two layers of weightless silk with a silk grosgrain ribbon edging. The feathers are a mix of a dyed soft pale yellow mixed with some soft light taupe natural feathers for depth and interest. I took a photo of the back of the silk of the skirt and you can see that each feather was hand placed onto the silk Vogue referenced couture in the review I added above. It snaps to close under the ribbon at the side so there is no break anywhere with a zipper. It just looks like it somehow magically formed it on you. It is an incredible piece of Tom's history with the brand. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a pale taupe nude silk chiffon and has hidden set snaps at the side to close. Tagged a YSL 42. Some of the ends of the feathers have separated a bit on the natural spots it curves but this is just part of aging for a piece like this. I don't consider this a flaw but its mentioned for accuracy.
Bust: approx 16" flat across from side seam to side seam with open sides. each halter is 6" wide at its widest point
Under-bust to waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam at top of hips: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 30" from neck to hem but can be pulled up as short as you want
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS
Item# DD4001
Reference Photos/Video: (1-8) Spring 2003 Gucci Runway Collection, Look 27. Model: Louise Pedersen. / (9) Natalia Vodianova, wearing Gucci, Vogue, February 2003. Photo by Steven Klein.
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nina ricci
Fall 1996 Nina Ricci by Gerard Pipart Haute Couture Strapless Silk Chiffon Dress w Crystal Detailing
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The Nina Ricci brand was founded in 1932 at 20 Rue de Capucines in Paris and quickly became one of the top couture ateliers in the world. In 1964 Gérard Pipart succeeded Jules-François Crahay, Nina Ricci's former designer assistant, as head of the brand. Pipart, who had previously worked for Balmain, Fath, and Patou, brought a wide range of experience in all aspects of fashion to the brand. Over the following three decades, Pipart's couture vision 'celebrated a flamboyant woman and his ready-to-wear found a loyal following among the most stylish women of the day.' He headed the Couture division until 1998 which makes this a dress from one of his final few seasons. This is an incredible and very beautiful piece of Haute Couture. It is truly magical once on.
The dress is made out of layers of a deep blue bias cut silk chiffon. The bodice is strapless and it has an inner shaped corset that is lightly boned and shaped for light support. The top of the bodice is slightly rounded above each breast and then dips down and into the centre. The silk chiffon has been gathered and softly draped by hand over the body from the bust to the top of the hips. The draping goes all the way around you and adds to the hourglass feel the dress has. The waist cinches in and the dress comes with its original matching silk sash that you can tie and style around your shoulders or neck. The skirt flows out from under there and it is made up of yards and yards of feather light silk chiffon all cut on the bias. The layers of chiffon are feather light and the movement they create as they float over each other as you move is just incredible. It is incredible to see in person. I love that added bit of glamour from the beautiful band of glass crystals, silver tube beads and silver sequins that run from the centre of the bust to curve down and over one hip. It is like an added bit of jewellery to the dress and just beautiful. It is truly one of the best dresses of his that I have seen. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
The bodice of the dress is fully lined in a hand set blue silk. The skirt has an inner layer of silk under the top layers of bias cut silk chiffon. The bodice is shaped and lightly boned inside with softly shaped cups. It closes with a hand set back zipper. The dress is entirely made by hand with its proper Haute Couture tag present. There are a couple of tiny repairs and tiny areas of thinning/pinholes here and there in the skirt. There is so much fabric you do not see them but this is mentioned for accuracy. Please see the photos after the label shot.
Bust: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam at the top of the hips: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 17" from top of bodice to the seam at the top of the hips
Total length: 44" from top of bodice to shortest point of the front hem and 56" to the back hem
Scarf: approx 20" x 80"
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS
Item# DD4993
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oscar de la renta
Resort 2012 Oscar de la Renta Look 51 Deep Blue Dot Runway Dress w Ruffled Shoulder
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The twin of this dress walked the runway for the Resort 2012 show for Look 51. On the runway it was styled with a fabulous hat that gave it a very Spanish feel. I loved how it looked on the runway but it also looks as good on its own and not worn so specifically themed. This dress was mentioned in Vogue review specifically where they said "The artist's Spanish roots provided a through line to the collection's matador jackets; high-waist, narrow-cut pants; and pompom trim flamenco hats made of construction paper. If the headgear was a bit of a head-scratcher, a polka-dot evening dress was de la Renta at his best." It is fantastic and a rare larger size too.
The dress is made from a deep blue-black silk that has an abstract white dot screened over its surface. The bodice extends out and into an elaborate panel that curves up and over the shoulder on one side. The panel is made from a few layers to it to create a ruffled effect. Nestled into the ruffles are two red silk flowers. I love this little pop of colour. They pin into place so you can move them exactly where they sit best on you. The neckline is cut into a rounded curve that is very flattering. The bodice is fitted and cinches in at the waist with a full interior boned and cupped corset to help hold the shape. It curves out and over the hips and then the skirt cascades to the floor. The way the lower skirt is set into the body of the dress on a slight angle gives you a fabulous sweeping feel as you walk. The inner hem of the skirt is finished with a wide band of stiffening so that it holds the shape that you see. This also gives it a gorgeous movement when you move and walk. This is one of my own all time favourites from him. It appears to have been never worn or worn very little. Excellent condition
The dress is fully lined in silk and the bodice has a built in cupped and boned corset that closes with its own zipper. The dress closes with a back set zipper over that. Slight change to the dots near the back that looks like it was printed that way. Tagged a modern ODLR 14
Bust: to 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 64" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: LRG-XL
Item# DD4994
Reference Photos/Video: Resort 2012 Oscar de la Renta, Look 51. Model Bette Franke.
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bill blass
Incredible Fall 1987 Bill Blass Runway Deep Blue Silk & Black Velvet Dress w Back Bustles & Bows
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The twin of this dress walked the Fall 1987 runway and I love that we found a reference photo so you can see just how fantastic this is once on. It is one of those dresses that looks amazing on the dress form but is even better on an actual person. Bill Blass launched his label in 1970 when he bought out the Maurice Rentner label and re-launched it under his own name. Blass was arguably one of the most famous of the American designers. His forte was the ability to mix simple styles with unexpected materials in way that was very flattering to the wearer. This dress is so unusual and I absolutely love it. It is truly one of the most spectacular of his dresses that I have had in the shop.
This dress is incredible. The fabric alone is a work of art. The base is a rich blue silk and then onto this is a fantastic design made of out a black velvet. The velvet is very soft to the touch with a chenille like finish that gives the design a beautiful texture and softness. The dress has the feel of an antique 18th century gown and I love this reference back to the past. The top is a fitted and strapless with a band of black silk wrapping around the breasts. The blue silk and black velvet fall from there to skim outward over the waist and hips and then narrow back down to the floor as it reaches the hem. This gives the front of the dress a more long and lean feel but with a hint that something special might happen as you turn. The back is the star of the show. Sitting over the top of the closure at the back is a large black velvet bow. This tops an added panel that has the feel of a bustle. I is made out of a tremendous sweep of the same fabric. It expands outward and then loops back in to attach just under the hips. A second black velvet bow sits at the base of where it swoops in. The sheer volume of fabric used to create this nod to a bustle is fantastic. From every angle of the dress you get these wondrous sweeping views because of this unusual detail. There is a slit under that at the back to allow you to walk. The combination of the beautiful fabric and that extra detailing is just amazing. It is one of the most beautiful dresses I have seen from him. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a black silk. It closes with a back painted metal zipper hidden under a seam and there is an inner hooked waist stay. Light boning through the bodice. Hand work throughout.
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 56" from top of bodice to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4995
Reference Photo: Fall 1987 Bill Blass Runway.
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This is the work of Elinor Simmons who designed for the Malcolm Starr label from the early 1960s to 1972. She excelled at the metallic and chic pieces that the label was known for and this is a wonderful example of her work. It is even better in person. It is a really gorgeous little set.
This set has a simple cut that is made glamorous by the wonderful fabric choice. The fabric has a raised print that has been created by the way the fabric is stitched in and around the raised parts to the design. It gives it this puffed effect that is fantastic. It has a touch of weight to it so that it holds the shape. The raising of the design gives it a tone on tone effect and then parts of it have been finished with gold metallic thread for a subtle bit of glitz. The inner dress is a simple sheath that is cut so that it skims over the body and flares out as it reaches the hem. It has little capped sleeves and the neckline is a simple scoop. Over this is a matching jacket with a cropped cut. It has a neat little collar and slight box cut. It closes with three buttons down the front and I love that has properly made button holes. When the dress is worn on its own it has that touch of a mod feel that the sixties were all about but once the jacket is on it has a more refined feel. Excellent condition.
Both pieces are lined in a gold silky rayon. The dress closes with a back zipper and the jacket with three buttons at the front. Hand finishes and tagged a vintage 6. Pockets along the front seams.
Jacket
Sleeves: approx 21" and are 12" around the upper arm
Shoulders: no true defined seam
Bust- hem 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 15.5" from neck to hem
Dress
Sleeves: 11.5" around the arm opening
Shoulder: no true defined seam
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 12" from neck to top seam at the waist
Total length: 37" from neck to hem with just over 2" turned under the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4992
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

alexander mcqueen
Fall 2005 Alexander McQueen Runway Look 27 Plaid Wrap Jacket w Wide Collar & Fringing
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The twin of this jacket walk the fall 2005 run runway for look 27. The collection was titled 'The Man Who Knew Too Much' and the Alexander McQueen site said of this collection: 'For the second time in his career, Alexander McQueen references The Birds for this collection a film that he remembers loving as a child principally because of the precise way in which the women featured choose to dress. Against a film-set backdrop flooded with red light models stride out in swing coats, pencil skirts, neat, cropped trousers and fitted chunky mohair all of which suit a modern-day Hitchcock heroine down to the ground' and Vogue's review stated 'Tippi Hedren and Marilyn Monroe. Biker molls and sweater girls. You got it: Alexander McQueen went to the sixties, all the way, for fall.... His combined knowledge of Savile Row tailoring and Parisian couture means he can scissor an impeccably narrow grey tweed coat or a nipped-waist pencil skirt suit, and put sizzle into period sobriety.'
This jacket is fantastic and it is such a unique and easy piece to wear and mix in with things you already own. I love that it can feel more dressy and be a strong statement piece if it is styled like how it was on the runway, but it is also a piece you can throw over jeans. It is made out of a virgin fleeced wool and this gives it a beautiful soft blanket like feel. All of the edges are stitched with yarn to further play on that blanket feel and the edges are finished in fringes. It wraps and buttons into place and comes with a wide hand stitched belt that you can tie and cinch in the waist with. Each sleeve is incredibly wide and the shawl collar is very full. It is full enough that you could actually bring it up and over your head like a hood if you wished. Excellent condition with a note below.
Each jacket is unlined and buttons to close at and below the waist. There are inner straps that hold the jacket in place. Tagged a size 42. There is a slight yellowing on the inner muslin part of straps that go around the arms inside the jacket. I see a tiny little repair. Very minor. The cut is loose and easy and you can use the belt to cinch it in if you are smaller. It is meant to feel more oversized.
Sleeves: approx 31" from shoulder to ends of fringes
Shoulders: no true defined seam
Bust: open"
Waist: to 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 27" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4991
Reference Photos/Video: Fall 2005 Alexander McQueen, Look 27. Model Vlada Roslyakova.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

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The twin of this dress and coat set walked the runway for the Fall 2000 Haute Couture collection as Look 17. The runway version was in a different colour but it was otherwise the same. The set is incredibly beautiful and chic once on the body. True Haute Couture pieces by Karl for Chanel are so very rare and hard to come by. It is an extraordinary find. This is an historically important example of the work that Karl was doing for Chanel during this time period.
Having both the coat and dress in this set makes it so versatile since you can mix and match with things you already own and wear them in so many different ways. The set is made from a deep coral pink and moss green coloured variation of the signature Chanel boucle. From a distance the colours combine to give it a more rust coloured feel but as you get closer you do see the two distinctive colours. The edges are finished with a fringe made of the two different colours. The fringe follows the edges on the coat and circles each cuff. On the dress it runs all the way around the hem. The dress is cut in the sleek and simple shift that skims over the body and flares out slightly as it nears the hem. Subtle seams shape the dress around you. It is hand lined in a deep green silk. The jacket slips over that with light handmade shoulder pads for a shape and the sleeves are long. The shape is created with meticulous seaming set on curving lines. A hook and eye sits at the top of the neck. From there a ruffle runs all the way to the hem. The jacket is also lined in a deep green silk and there is a signature Chanel chain set around the inner hem. It is exceptional. Completely made by hand to Haute Couture standards. Excellent condition.
Both the dress and the jacket are fully lined in a deep green silk. The dress closes with a back hidden set zipper. The jacket has a hook and eye at the top of the neck. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Both pieces have an appropriate Haute Couture label and numbered tape present. Both pieces are completely made by hand
The Chanel boucle is created with their proprietary method of weaving that they themselves describe as "by weaving the warp and weft, using a variety of different kinds of threads which creates a unique and somewhat irregular appearance. The warp – vertically strung – is the background of the fabric, the base that will support the assembly of materials. There can be up to 12 different threads used for a single warp. The weft – woven horizontally – gives the fabric its unique character and can have an unlimited number of threads. Tight, perforated, textured, thick, with a relief, plaited, random, twill… the potential number of effects is endless". This technique gives you that classic Chanel look.
Jacket
Sleeve: 24"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 39" from neck to hem
Dress
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 38" from shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4142
Reference Photos/Video: Fall 2000 Chanel Couture Runway, Look 17. Model: Tetyana Brazhnyk.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

valentino
Pre-Fall 2020 Valentino by Pierpaolo Piccioli Runway Look 3 Blue & White Silk Organza Dress
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This dress is the twin of Look 3 for the Pre-Fall 2020 collection. For this collection Pierpaolo paid homage to the Fall 1968 Haute Couture collection and I have included the reference photos of those original pieces here. This famous print was originally done by Mr Valentino and were inspired by the blue and white in Chinese Delft print vases. It is also very close in style to the 2013 Valentino dress that was a part of the in the Met Museums 2015 "China: Through the Looking Glass" exhibit. When speaking of this collection to Vogue Piccioli said; “I want to maintain couture’s values even in the pre-fall collection. I like the idea of breaking its rules and translating them into a modern, spontaneous wardrobe, making something historical become contemporary.” and they went on to mention this print in particular saying that 'he picked from the archives... a beautiful print of Delft blue vases from a sophisticated 1968 couture collection. “I want Valentino to be lively and joyous,” enthused Piccioli. “For me, beauty means life, emotion, something that vibrates and is full of energy—not something removed that you look at from afar, as if on a pedestal.” Mary Holland wore its twin to a premier that season as well. It is beautiful and very special.
The dress is pristine and utterly beautiful. It is made of a feather light silk organza that has been printed with a beautiful blue and white design. The print is intricate and I love how he has placed the print over the bodice and skirt to accentuate the design and cut of the dress. The silk is feather light in weight and floats beautifully over the body. The dress has a second layer of organza under the top layer which gives it just a touch less transparency and also helps to add to the airy and light feel that it has. For the sleeves, he kept them to one single layer so they have a touch of transparency. It has a neat little collar and buttons to close done the bodice with hidden set buttons. I love how carefully the pattern has been lined up across the panel at the front. The bodice lightly skims over you to the nipped in waist. The skirt falls from under the waist and is spectacular. It is lightly gathered into the waist seam and then opens up to be very full to the floor. This is a gorgeous dress and it is even better in person. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a silk organza with the sleeves unlined. It buttons down the front with hidden set buttons under that front panel and zips to close with a hidden set zipper down the back. Tagged a modern Valentino 40
Sleeves: 21.5"
Shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 15.5-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12,5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from neck to waist
Total Length: 65" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4588
Reference Photos: (1) Pre-Fall 2020 Valentino, Look 3. / (2) Models in Valentino, British Vogue, September 1968. / (3) Valentino dresses at the MET Exhibition "China: Through the Looking Glass", 2015. / (4) Model in Valentino Autumn 1968 Gown, photographed by Steven Meisel, 2015. / (5) Mary Holland in Valentino at the premiere of "Happiest Season", November 2020.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

alexander mcqueen
Resort 2010 Alexander McQueen Silk Chiffon Blue Print Dress w Plunging Front & Open Back
I Have a Question
The twin of this dress in yellow was part of the Resort 2010 collection. This dress with it stunning agate inspired print is even prettier that the solid coloured version. Printed pieces and these blue tones were used for the Spring 2009 show and a tag inside of this dress does have a date of 2009 so either he repeated the cut of the dress in the solid colour for the Resort 2010 show or this was made in 2010 but based on the 2009 prints and the date reflects the production date. It is absolutely gorgeous.
The silk chiffon that has been used to construct this dress is wonderful. It is covered with that amazing design that is set over the dress in a pattern done to reflect the colours and hues that you would see in an agate stone. The combination of the silk, the plunging halter top and that amazing back give the dress a soft and romantic feel while still having a bit of that McQueen edginess. The bodice is made of two wide gathered triangle panels of silk that wrap partway around the waist and then extend up and around the neck. At the back two other panels extend up from the waist and curve around the straps from the front. The triangles at the front create a low plunge that goes to the waist. The sides are wrapped slightly to the back waist but you still have a feeling of openness above that and I love that detail. The back is beautiful with those straps running over the bare expanse of skin. There is a soft partially twisted band at the waist for shape and then at the back it extends into long ties that you can tie into a bow as I have or let them trail down to the hem. Under the waist the skirt skims over the hips and then opens out to be very full. The softness and movement that the ultralight silk chiffon create when you move adds to the feminine feel that the dress has. It is genius. The volume in the skirt really becomes apparent when you move and it billows out around you to give the dress a light and airy feel. The dress is gorgeous and even better in person. This is a piece that will really come to life once on an actual body. Excellent condition
The dress closes with a low set hidden zipper and the ties at the back are attached and tie. The triangles have a lining of the same printed silk chiffon and the skirt is lined with an ivory silk chiffon. It is in its original uncut length and appears to have been worn very little if at all. Tagged a McQueen 40.
Bust: each halter will cover up to approximately 8"
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 13.5" from top of shoulder to top of the 3" band at the waist
Total length: 62" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4795
Reference Photos: (1) Resort 2010 Alexander McQueen Look 25. / (2) Daisy Lowe attends the premiere of Boogie Woogie in London, April 2010.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

luisa beccaria
Prettiest Resort 2020 Luisa Beccaria Runway Look 24 Blue & Ivory Silk Chiffon Dress
I Have a Question
The twin of this dress was Look 24 for the Resort 2020 presentation. The Luisa Beccaria label is made in Italy and run by the mother-daughter team of Luisa and Lucilla Beccaria. They are known for their incredibly feminine pieces that have an almost story book feel to them. The cost of their pieces run into the thousands and their clothing is very well made. The label's pieces always have a sense of romance to them. Vogue said of the collection that; 'Beccaria’s style is at its most resplendent when she’s designing for elegant soirées and receptions with a sense of occasion. Resort offered plenty of choices in embroidered lace, layered tulle, macramé, and wispy organza.'
This is a gorgeous dress. It has the prettiest floral design screened onto a feather light silk chiffon. Think the finest silk scarf you could have in terms of weight and feel. The print is done in pale shades of blue on an ivory backdrop. The collar wraps around the neck with long attached ties that you can let trail down the back as they did in the collection photos or wrap and tie it into a beautiful soft bow at the front like I did. The silk is gathered into the collar for added detail on the bodice. From there it skims to the waist where you can cinch it in with its matching tie belt in the same fabric. The belt has an added flower that matches the print of the dress. The skirt falls to the floor under that and the silk is all bias cut with yards of fabric in the skirt. All of that fabric means that with your slightest move the skirt floats around you. The skirt is in its original uncut length. The sleeves are fantastic. Each is a very full balloon sleeve made out of a single layer of the silk chiffon. They puff out dramatically above the cuff with each cuff ending in a split ruffle. This is a dress that you slip on and feel completely comfortable when wearing and yet it has as much drama and impact as you could ask for. It is a stunning and very romantic example of their work and beautifully made. It comes with its original hang tags and was never worn. Excellent condition
The outer dress is unlined and it comes with a matching ivory bias cut silk chiffon slip to wear underneath. It closes with hook and eye at the back of the neck and a hidden set side zipper. Elastic through the waist and at the end of each cuff. The original tie belt is included. The loose and easy cut should allow it to fit a variety of sizes. It will just drape more on a smaller frame and be more fitted on a larger frame. In its original uncut length, and appears to have never been worn. Tagged a modern 46 and has its original hang tags.
Outer Dress
Sleeves: approx 29" but meant to come up once on and 18" around the upper arm
Shoulders: no true defined seam
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14-16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from neck to waist
Total length: 67" from top of shoulder to hem
Inner Separate Slip
Bust: 17-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20-24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 67" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4590
Reference Photo: Resort 2020 Luisa Beccaria, Look 24.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

I Have a Question
In 1951 a 27 year old James Galanos launched his first label called Galanos Originals. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. Galanos was a master cutter and his ready-to-wear line was made close to couture standards and with a level of craftsmanship that was on par with the French couturiers. Grace Kelly was an early fan. He was truly one of the great American designers and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world.
This jumpsuit is absolutely gorgeous. The entire piece has a custom designed print that has been screened onto a feather light silk chiffon. Think the finest silk scarf you could have in terms of weight and feel. It has all been printed with a really outstanding design that highlights the cut of the jumpsuit. The colours are fantastic. That combination of various shades of green mixed with a soft purple and blue and pink cannot be beat. The jumpsuit lunges right to the waist at the front with a tie that keeps it in place and closed, but it is open underneath that spot to the waist so when you move, you get a very subtle glimpse of skin. The top skims over you and the sleeves start from the waist and then our wide and straight to their ends. I love how the end of the sleeve and the neck line are all finished with a black silk ribbon. The waist has elastic so is very easy to fit. If you wanted it to look very cinched and you could add a belt. The pants fall from under that and are cut to be very very wide and full so you get this incredible movement when you move. By the bottom hand, they are a full 31" around. The entire jumpsuit is lined in a green silk chiffon and all of the inner edges. Have ribbon finishes. It's incredibly well made. The movement and beauty of this piece is extraordinary. This is a piece that you slip on and feel completely comfortable when wearing it and yet it has as much drama and impact as you could ask for. It is a stunning example of his work. And it has pockets. I love it. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a green silk chiffon. It zips to close at the front under the elastic waist. The top has attached ties at the front. Hand finished through out with ribbon finished edges inside and out. It appears to have been worn very little if at all
Sleeves: 25" and are 18" around the upper arms
Shoulders: no defined seams
Bust: no true side seams
Waist: 11-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16" from top of bodice to waist
Pants: 42" from waist to hem with just under 2" turned under the hem
Inseam: 28" from the inner seam to hem
Gusset: 16" front he waist to inner seam and 32.5" from back of neck to inner seam
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4990
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

valentino
Fall 2019 Valentino by Pierpaolo Piccioli Strapless Strapless Green Dress w Floral Design
I Have a Question
This is a dress that was made for the shops in limited quantities. That said, I have included a runway photo here that has similar pleat work to give you an idea of how the skirt falls once on the body. Fall 2019 was wildly successful. The Vogue review for this collection touched on Pier Paolos's inspiration for the show saying; "(he is) a man on an intuitive mission to place fashion on a positive plane. 'I feel that people are looking for emotion and dreams—but not distant dreams,' he said today before his ready-to-wear show was about to take to the runway. 'I want to create a community for Valentino. I mean something different from ‘lifestyle,’ which is about owning objects. It’s about people who share values.'” Every piece he did for the label was special and this dress is a beautiful example of that.
This dress feels thoroughly Valentino. The floral print that runs over its surface is spectacular. It is made from a fine and very light weight cotton whose finish gives it the look of a silk. It holds the soft pleat work beautifully. The lightness of the cotton combined with that soft open pleating is what lets it move so beautifully over the body once it is on. When you walk the fabric of the skirt catches the air and billows out around you. The body of the dress is done in a deep moss green that has the feel of being hand painted. Flowers trail down one side and this also has the feel of being hand painted. The strapless bodice is fitted to the waist with an inner boning to hold it in place. Inside there is a coral lining and this unexpected colour peeks through the exterior cotton very slightly. The skirt falls from the waist and widen out quite a bit as it near the floor. A wide ruffle is attached to the hem of the lower skirt for added volume and movement. There are many yards of fabric in the skirt and as you move the pleats expand to move around you beautifully. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition
Lined through the bodice in coral and has an inner lightly boned bodice piece. The skirt is lined in a light white cotton. The dress closes with a hidden set side zipper and the inner bodice zips to close with its own zipper. Hand finishes. I have had another dress from the same collection in the shop before and that one had a tag that said to maintain the plisse effect that dress has you were to wring it to compress the pleats after cleaning. Tagged a Valentino 40.
Bust: to 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 8" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 46.5" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4499
Reference Photo: Fall 2019 Valentino Runway, Look 60. Model: Yoon Young Bae.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

thea porter
Rare 1960s Thea Porter Couture Printed Silk Chiffon Dress w Gold Sequins & Gold Metal Thread Detailing
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This is a spectacular example of Thea Porter's work. It is very easy to wear with a touch of a caftan feel to it. That combined with those spectacular sleeves makes it very special piece. Her caftans and the dresses that had that caftan feel to them have come to represent Thea's work like no other pieces of her clothing that she designed. Everyone who was anyone wore her work back in the day, including Elizabeth Taylor who was a huge fan and collector. This dress is just spectacular and a very special and rare piece.
The dress is made from a printed silk chiffon that has a swirling design with a black backdrop. The print mixes different shades of green with pops of blue and the print covers the entire dress. The bodice has an empire cut and the front scoops low and wide. Detailing the edge of the neck and down the front is an antique gold metal cord embellishment. This circles around the neckline and part way down the front. Hand made frog knots made of the same cording close the dress down the front. The same gold cord covers the seam where the sleeves are set into the dress and more of it sit above the scalloping detail of the skirt. Thea was known to hunt antique stores and markets during her travels and use what she found in her designs and this is certainly a found antique textile. The dress buttons down the front to just past the waist. There is a seam set under the bust and then the dress falls from there in a loose and easy feel. The sleeves are fantastic. From just above the elbow to the cuff they balloon out to be spectacularly full. This lower portion of the sleeve is unlined and this gives it a touch of transparency. The final detail is that little scalloped panel that runs around the skirt above the bottom hem. It adds just a tiny touch of movement, and added detail that is lovely. This is very special and rare piece of Thea's work and it is also very beautiful. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a hand set black silk lining except for the lower sleeves. It closes down the front with gold antique cord loops and frog knots. Each cuff hooks to close. Tagged a vintage UK 12. Finished by hand throughout. There is some slight patina to the cording. A tiny bit of grubbiness to the seam under each arm on the inner lining.
Sleeves: 26" and 11" around the upper arm
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under the bust: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10.5" from the top of the shoulder to the seam under the bust
Total length: 56" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4570
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
