ossie clark

Rare 1969 Ossie Clark Documented Wide Leg Pant & Tie Front Overcoat Set w Celia Birtwell Print

  • This incredible set dates to 1969.
  • It was made under the creative direction of Ossie Clark.
  • At this stage in Ossie's journey each piece would have been made individually. The jacket on its own was photoed for Vogue UK that summer and it also appears in the book "Celia Birtwell" by Celia Birtwell. The V&A museum holds a dress version and that same dress version appears in the book "Ossie Clark 1965|74" by Judith Watt.
  • I personally have never seen another set like this one available for sale in the 20 years I have been doing this. It is an exceedingly rare set.
  • The set was loved and worn. It is not perfect but it presents fabulously once on the body. Its value is largely based on its rarity and special place in Ossie Clark's history.
  • Both pieces are made out of printed rayon crepe with one of Celia Birtwell's prints.
  • The print is an early appearance of one of Celia Birtwell's most famous. In the book "Celia Birtwell" they describe a yellow version of the same print as a "splashy large Candyflower - a flower enclosed in a swirly motif - one of her most iconic designs.". That same book noted that "Celia's prints brought Ossie's designs to life. The clever way the patterns combine different scales through the eye from one part of the dress to another."
  • The check that you see was also developed by Celia and it offered a graphic contrast to the softness of the flower prints that she was doing in this era.
  • The pants have a flat banded front and they zip at the front. They fall over the hips and then widen out to be incredibly wide pant legs. Each leg is a full 29 inches around by it's hem.
  • The base colour on the pants is a bright clear red and then Celia's flower print in black, white and a deep blue cover the pants entirely.
  • Over that is the most incredible piece that is kind of a combination of a jacket and a top. It slips onto wear and then has ties that extend out from the front and tie just under the bust to hold it in place.
  • The collar is a classic wide pointed and notched collar that you see in this era.
  • The front bodice, the back, the collar and the tie are all made out of the blue and ivory check. That same fabric is also used for the bottom portion of the sleeves. A wide band sits under the bust that made of the flower pattern and you see the flower pattern at the top of each arm. The shoulders have a slight puff to them which is more apparent once it is on an actual body.
  • Under that the jacket falls all the way to just a touch above the hem of the pants. It is completely open at the front and it widens out quite a bit as it near it's hem.
  • This open front and extra fabric as it opens gives it fantastic movement around you as you move.
  • When it is worn over top of the pants, the effect of the print on print is just fantastic.
  • This is an extremely rare and early piece of Ossie and Celia's partnership.
  • Both pieces are unlined. The pants zip to close at the front and the top ties at the waist as described above. Both pieces have been worn and loved over the years. There is light fading and some small minor marks/grubbiness throughout on both pieces. I have photoed some of the worst for you to see. There is fading around the bum area of the pants and I have photoed that for you. Please see the photos after the label shot. This fabric does fade over time so it is part wear and part natural patina. It presents fantastically once on the body.
  • The top is tagged a UK 12 and the pants have no size tag. Please go by the measurements listed below.
  • Great condition

Top/jacket
Sleeves: 22" and they are 14" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam but can be tied looser at the front to get more room.
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam but can be tied looser at the front to get more room.
Hips: open
Bodice: 13.5" from neck to top of the band around the waist
Total length: 60" from neck to hem

Pants
Waist: 12.75" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 42" from waist to hem
The inseam is 31" and the gusset is 15.5"from the top of the back waist to the inseam

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD5791

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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.

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