yves saint laurent

Exquisite Fall 1984 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway Look 122 Strapless Black Velvet & Copper Gold Silk Bow

  • The twin of this dress walked the Haute Couture YSL runway as Look 122 for Fall 1984.
  • It was made under the creative direction of Yves Saint Laurent.
  • French Vogue declared "People will remember that late morning of Wednesday July 25th for a long time. It was in the maelstrom of the Autumn/Winter 1984-1985 Couture shows. The heat wave made everybody irritable. And when they saw the marathon program of the show, which out of the blue announced 182 designs, emotions ran sky high. How had Saint Laurent dared what mad bet was he trying to win? How would he get away with it without repeats or pastiches? Sixty minutes later the rebellious room was on its feet applauding as one this new triumph by Saint Laurent the magnificent. What had happened? Quite simply the indisputable proof that Saint Laurent is the greatest, and that he has more than perfected the art of creating miracles out of designs that people have believed would never be more than standards... Here the high art of Saint Laurent shone through an apparent asceticism. He has a unique way of paring down the superfluous, removing unnecessary details, so that even at first sight, there was no mistaking: this is Saint Laurent."
  • The dress has been completely made by hand in the Paris atelier.
  • I have included a snap of the original sketch from my YSL HC folio. It tells us that it was Look 122 in the show. 
  • I love that it is one of the few pieces in the folio that has a secondary sketch along with the main full front sketch. 
  • The dress is made out of a rich black silk velvet and then the bow that wraps around the waist is a copper gold coloured rich and luxurious silk.
  • At the front the dress is extended into high rounded peaks over the bust and dips in between those quite sharply.
  • Inside there is hidden built in a structure to hold the dress in place and help to create shape.
  • It nips in at the waist and there is a internal series of hook and eye at the side under the zipper to help secure it around you.
  • From there it comes back out over the hips into a pencil skirt that narrows in just slightly around the hem. This couture touch of bringing it in at the hem just that little bit helps to add to the hourglass feel that the dress has.
  • Attached around the waist is a wide gathered band of a copper gold silk. It is a full 6.5 inches at its widest point at the back.
  • This unexpected and bold use the colour that wraps around you is the perfect contrast to the inky black velvet.
  • Finishing the front of that band is a classic soft YSL bow in a shape that you see so often in his work. It is just absolutely spectacular. To me it feels like it sits slightly lower on this dress than the one on the runway. Couture was of course made to a client preferences and this would have been where they preferred it to sit. If you preferred it to sit higher up as it did on the runway, you could easily have that tweak done.
  • Everything is made by hand and hand stitched into place. It is an absolute beautiful thing to see all of the exquisite details on this dress.
  • The dress has a hidden inner cups and boning inside the bodice. A hidden set of inner waist hooks sit just inside of the side zipper that closes the dress. The bow hooks into place under its centre and one side has a hidden set snap to hold the bow perfectly where it should be. The appropriate Haute Couture tag is present and all of the work is done by hand.
  • There is no size tag present because it is true Couture. Please go by the measurements listed below.
  • Excellent condition

Bust: 32" all the way around inside
Waist: 12.25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17.75" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approximately 9" from top of bodice to inner waist
Total length: 31.5" from waist to hem with just under 2"turned under the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD5849

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SIZE GUIDE

Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.

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