christian dior
1960s Christian Dior Demi-Couture Textured Ivory Silk A-Line Dress & Matching Crop Jacket
This is an incredible dress with its matching crop jacket that lands somewhere in that time period between the end of Christian's reign, Yves Saint Laurent's time there, and Marc Bohan's appointment as the head of the Dior atelier. Just based on the style of it I would guess that it is early in Marc Bohan's era but regardless of under whose directorship it falls it is a beautiful and early example of the work being produced by Christian Dior in this time period. This is the Christian Dior Paris label and is considered to be demi-couture from this time period of Dior's history. These were made for the Paris boutique based on the runway designs and with many of the same high standard finishes that Haute Couture pieces incorporated. This one is numbered as well. This would be an incredible dress for any collector and it might even make an amazing day dress for the bride looking for a non-traditional choice.
This set is fabulous. It has a simple refined cut that is made glamorous by the wonderful fabric choice. The fabric is very unusual with its raised 'print' that has been created by the way the fabric is stitched in and around the raised parts to the design. It gives it this puffed effect that is fantastic. It feels like wool silk mix and it has a touch of weight to it so that it holds the shape. The raising of the design gives it a tone on tone effect that I love. The colour is an ivory with a slight grey / palest possible green undertone. The raised pattern covers both pieces and the added texture really adds an extra dimension to the dress. The inner dress is a simple sheath that is cut so that it skims over the body and flares out as it reaches the hem. It is sleeveless and the neckline is a simple scoop. There is a notched detail at the front that has two fabric covered buttons keeping it in place. Under that lies a slightly upward curving seam that sits just above the breasts once on. Over this is a little matching jacket in a mod feeling cropped cut. It has a neat little notched collar and slight box cut. There are no closures and it is meant to just be popped on over the dress. Two pockets sit on either side at the front and each has a fabric covered button detail on it. What I love about it is that when the dress is worn on its own it has that touch of a mod feel that the sixties were all about but once the jacket is on it has a more refined feel. Great overall condition with a note below.
The jacket is lined in a cream silk and the dress in an off-white muslin. The dress closes with a hand set painted metal zipper at the back. The jacket slips on with no front closures. There is minor shattering to the silk under the arms of the jacket and here and there inside the dress lining. I also see some slight grubbiness on the silk under each arm. There are repairs along the neckline of the jacket where the silk has shattered and been stitched down at some point. The zipper feels slightly loose when you start to undo it. The outer edges of the sleeves feel a bit grubby as do the edges here and there on the dress. The grubbiness to the fabric was very hard to photo and I mentioning it for accuracy. I did photo the inside lining so please see those shots that include the one of the label. Hand finished and very well made to demi-couture standards.
Jacket
Sleeve opening: 12" around
Slightly inset shoulders: 14.5"
Bust - hem: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 19.5" from neck to hem
Dress
Bust: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 40" from neck to hem with 2" turned under
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4510
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