christian dior
Beautiful Resort 2009 Christian Dior by John Galliano Purple Bias Silk Crepe Dress w Plunge Front & Train
I Have a Question
- This dress is from the Cruise 2009 collection and it is a production piece produced for the shops.
- It was made under the creative direction of John Galliano.
- The runway pieces that season were based lightly on Poiret and the Paris of the past and for production there was a group of more refined and elegant pieces like this wonderful dress. You so often see how John translated his over the top runway collections into elegant, wearable and yet still glamorous pieces like this dress but this one is infinitely wearable.
- The Vogue report on the collection noted that: "Galliano has been mining the good old U.S. of A. for raw material from which to spin his dreams....grandes dames like Barbara Hutton, Millicent Rogers, and Nan Kempner—women who weren't afraid to make a bold sartorial statement, one that preferably involved a whopping piece of jewelry. From a shimmering backdrop that conjured a Tony Duquette garden, there emerged a full wardrobe for their modern-day counterparts in Palm Beach, Beverly Hills, and Dallas.... What this season is really about is not so much breaking the mold as delivering a vision of the good life—and Galliano can do that in spades."
- The dress is made out of a crepe that has a little bit of texture to it and is in the absolute perfect purple colour that is so good on so many skin tones.
- Wide straps curve up and around the neck and they extend into two triangles that cover your front and slightly wrapped around the sides.
- The neckline plunges right to the waist at the front and the entire upper back is left bare.
- A wide band wraps around your middle to the top of the hip and it is detailed with buttons that run down the front and appear to hold and gather the dress around you. These buttons are decorative. The real buttons are spaced down the side in his signature tightly spaced fabric covered buttons and loops and this is what closes the dress around you. His buttons are a design detail in themselves.
- From there it curves over the hips and then falls to the floor, expanding out as it near the hem. The bottom skirt is quite full and it flares out dramatically on either side.
- At the back, it stands out to create a train behind you. This extra fabric at the bottom creates beautiful movement as you walk and it elongates the body fantastically.
- This is that long, sexy silhouette that Galliano does so well and it is spectacular in this deep purple colour.
- The bodice is unlined and the skirt is lined in a purple silk that is cut to extend all the way to the end of the train at the back. The buttons at the front or decorative and the dress closes with a series of tightly space buttons at one side.
- Tagged a Dior FR36, GB8, IT40, US4
- Excellent condition
Bust: each triangle covered approximately 6-8" from side to side
Seam under the bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 11" from neck to the seam under the bust
Total length: 64.5" from neck to front hem and the train extends out another 18.5"
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5320
Reference Photos: Resort 2009 Christian Dior, Looks 37 & 53.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
chloe
Rare Spring 1979 Chloe by Karl Lagerfeld Floral & Stripe Print Silk Dress w Matching Striped Belt
I Have a Question
- After much research I believe this to be from the Spring 1979 Chloe collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of Karl Lagerfeld.
- In this collection he moved away from 1940s as his inspiration into the sex appeal of the 1950s, said the book 'Chloe Catwalk'. The silhouettes were based on the hourglass. In that same book there was a very similar floral patterns shown I have included several photos here for you.
- Hand placed gathering emphasizes the hips for many of the pieces in this collection, along with extra emphasis on the waist. Lagerfeld said of the collection to the press "Frivolity is important. I want shape and sensualness."
- The dress is made from one of his signature feather light silks being used during this time period for Chloe. It is screened with a custom print that mixes an ivory, more pastel coral colour and a pale lavender.
- An interesting detail is that the labels are on the side of the dress that I think is the front. The side that has the deep plunge is longer in length at the hem so I believe that should be the back. I have seen other dresses with this label placement from around this time period and when the back is plunged like this, so it is not unusual to see. I have photoed it both ways for you, with the plunge at the back and the front. You could potentially wear the plunge at the front if you don't mind the longer hem at the front much like that Lacroix dress from me that was worn to the Met Gala a couple years ago when they turned it around backwards.
- The sleeves are long and it skims over the bust to the waist. The back plunges into a low V to just above the waist. As mentioned above, it is possible that you could wear it either way around. It is incredibly sexy worn either way.
- The waist is seamed and the dress comes with its original striped screened silk belt that hooks into place around you. The stripes on the belt pick up the stripes that are on the end of each sleeve and circle around the hem.
- The skirt curves over the hips and there is a gathering of the silk for added shape. It falls to the floor with the back cut longer then the front for a slight trained effect. You get the most fantastic movement as you walk.
- The dress is in its original uncut length and is unlined. It closes with a back hand set zipper. Hand finishes throughout. There is a tiny bit of fading at the top of the shoulders and edges of the hems. The entire dress looks to be hand dyed and or screened and it presents perfectly once on as this becomes part of the uniqueness of the pattern. The belt hooks to close.
- Excellent condition with the note above.
Sleeves: 22.5" and are 11" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16.5" from neck to waist
Total length: 60" from neck to front hem, 68" to the back hem with about 2" turned under the hem
Belt: 2.5" wide x 27" long where the hooks currently sit.
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5310
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
jacques heim
Exceptional 1950s Jacques Heim Golden Era Haute Couture Ultra Rare Purple-Gray Net & Handmade Lace Dress
I Have a Question
- This is an exceptional and very rare example of a Heim Haute Couture work from the late 1940s early 1950s.
- It was made under the creative direction of Jacques Heim.
- Jacques Heim began his career working at his parents fur business. In 1923 he took that business over and made it into his own vision. Heim began designing a line of made to order, in-house couture pieces that used original fabrics most notably those of Sonia Delauney. In 1930 his label became an official member of Haute Couture and his self-named label, Jacques Heim, was born. Jacques remained at the helm of his business until his death in 1967. The label closed in 1969.
- This era of Couture was known as the golden era in part because of its excellence in every aspect to the art of Couture. This dress is everything you look for in an Haute Couture dress from this time period.
- The dress is a phenomenal example of Couture and is made out of a hand dyed net and hand dyed, handmade lace.
- The dress is completely made by hand and would have been made in his Paris atelier.
- Wide straps curve up and over each shoulder and then the front neck and back are both scooped with a more shallow version at the front in a deeper one at the back. The opening across the shoulders is cut wider across so that you can wear this dress more on the outside of your shoulders and expose the collarbones.
- It skims over the bust and is shaped and meant to be slightly more fitted. From there it nips in at the waist. The dress comes with its original matching belt that is also made by hand and covered in the same net and silk as the dress. The belt is slim in its cut and highlights the waist even more.
- The skirt is truly outstanding. It is the perfect rendition of that 1950s full "New Look" feeling skirt that has come to be so associated with that era. The skirt is made from five layers of tulle that are hand dyed to this incredible soft taupey grey that has a hint of purple in its undertone. These five layers sit on top of multiple layers of inner skirting. All of the volume that you see here is created from the stocking of all those layers. I have added nothing extra underneath for these photos, though I think you could make it even fuller if you took the time to starch out every single layer.
- Onto the very top layer of netting are hand applied strips of handmade lace that have been added in vertical rows. Fees stand down and over the bodice to the waist. From there they trail down the skirt to end in various lengths. This has been done all the way around you and the final effect this creates is beautiful. It is hard to imagine the length of time this all would have taken by hand.
- The dress closes with a back metal zipper and the belt buckles to close. The inner bodice is boned for structure and all the hand work is done to Couture standards. An inner waist stay hooks to close. The skirt is made from multiple layers of netting as described above. I see a tiny bit of wear near one grommet of the buckle, one tiny repair in the netting and a faint mark on the skirt. These are all extremely minor but mentioned for accuracy.
- There is no size tag present since it is true Couture so please go by the measurements below.
- Excellent condition.
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 14.5" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 45" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5296
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
roberto cavalli
Outstanding Spring 2006 Roberto Cavalli Black Silky Jersey Corset Bodice Dress w Gold Hardware Detailing
I Have a Question
- This is the all black version of the Spring 2006 pink floral dress from the same collection that we currently have in the shop.
- It was made under the creative direction of Roberto Cavalli
- The twin of the pink version of this dress was worn by Noemie Lenoir in 2006 and we have included those reference photos in this listing because even though it is a different colour it still shows you just how phenomenal this is once on the body.
- The dress is made from a black silk feeling jersey that is draped over an inner black body suit that gives you the perfect amount of inner structure and holds the dress perfectly in place.
- That inner corset is lightly boned through the front and the bust area is shaped with inner padding and wire. The jersey on the exterior is draped into place over that and gathered over towards one side. At the base of where it gathers there is a decorative panel that has a tie running through it and little gold metal loops. You could use the ties to wrap around the waist or just let it hang down over the hip as I have done for these photos.
- A single layer of the jersey drapes down from there to form the skirt. The skirt is incredible. It falls to extend down long and dramatically on one side so you get a sweeping feel around you as you move. On the other side there is an inset triangle made out of a black chiffon that gives you the very slightest bit of transparency on that side.
- If you loved the dress in the flower print but are not a flower kind of girl. This is the version for you.
- The inner black bodysuit is shaped and made of a stretched lingerie netting to give you support and shape. It zippers to close at its side and then hooks to close at the bottom. The dress closes over that at the side with a hidden set zipper. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.
- There is no size tag present so please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition
Bust: 16-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 12-14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 62" from top of shoulder to the shortest part of the hem at one side and the back extends another 17" past that.
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD5288
Reference Photos: Noemie Lenoir attends the 'Quand J'Etais Chanteur' premiere during the Cannes Film Festival, 2006.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
arnold scaasi
Incredible 1960s Arnold Scaasi Couture Pink Coral 3D Yarn Covered Silk Skirt w Ribbon Waist
I Have a Question
- The skirt dates to the 1960s and is from Scassi's main label
- It was made under the creative direction of Arnold Scaasi
- Scaasi was born Arnold Isaacs in Montreal and the name Scassi is simply his own surname in reverse. He apprenticed at the house of Paquin and then worked with the legendary Charles James. In 1964 he opened own couture salon. He dressed Hollywood stars like Lauren Bacall, Diahann Carroll and Elizabeth Taylor along with several first ladies. He even once bragged that he refused to give Jackie Kennedy clothes for free. He was the man behind the scandalous 1969 Barbra Streisand sheer trouser outfit that she collected her Oscar in, and he was presented with the Council of Fashion Designers of America Lifetime Achievement Award in 1996. In 2010, The Boston Museum of Fine Arts, who hold the bulk of his archives, launched an exhibit of his work titled "Arnold Scaasi: American Couturier"
- Pieces from his main label were made to order and done to demi and couture standards.
- There are certain pieces that you come across that seem to go beyond just a piece of clothing and start to belong to the category of being a piece of art. This skirt qualifies. It is one of the most unusual and exceptional pieces I have seen.
- It is almost camp in feel and yet it has an incredible craftsmanship at the same time.
- It is made from looped tufts of wool in a pink, coral, deep burgundy and pale purple, that are independently attach by embroidery to a silk ribbon background. That silk ribbon is then sewed together and stacked row by row with a tiny gap left between each row. This creates this amazing sub-texture underneath the yarn.
- The yarn detailing is set horizontally and they puff out from the skirt so that it has a 3D feel.
- At the waist is a wide red grosgrain ribbon that sits in a bow at one side.
- Under the nipped in waist the skirt falls on an angle to widen out quite a bit by the time it reaches the hem. It somehow manages to stay both soft and feel structured at the same time.
- It is not unwieldy to wear but it does have the feel of substance.
- Inside it is hand lined in a fine red silk.
- Fully lined by hand in a fine red silk and closes at the back with a zipper and then hook and eye at the banded waist. All the work is done by hand and all of the yarn has been done by hand and applied to the silk ribbon behind it.
- There was no size tag present so please go by the measurements listed below
- Excellent condition
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 36" from waist to front hem, 38" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5267
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
thierry mugler
Fabulous c.1986 Thierry Mugler Strapless Metallic Gold Lurex Mini Dress w Buckle Detail
I Have a Question
- We believe the dress is from the 1986 collection and Kim Kardashian wore its twin in 2008.
- It was made under the creative direction of Thierry Mugler.
- The fabric that it is made out of is a light in weight metallic gold fabric that drapes beautifully and has a beautiful deep gold tone to it.
- The dress is cut with Mugler's masterful eye and attention to detail.
- The bodice is strapless. One side is curved and is gathered in underneath the other side. There is a peaked panel that folds down to create a little flap on the other side.
- A panel of the metallic gold fabric extends out from the side with the peaked bodice and this buckles into a gold metal buckle belt coming around from the back. This creates a heavy gathering at that side that sweeps up and adds shape through the waist area.
- The buckle is metal and is signed at the back. These would have been specifically made for Mugler.
- The skirt falls under that with a bit of a curving hem at the front so that it is all brought upwards as you can see in the photos. It is meant to feel hourglass in shape.
- This is a spectacular and very rare example of his work.
- I love how the entire dress shimmers in the light because of the gold metallic fabric.
- The dress is lined through the bodice with a more structured fabric that creates an inner built-in corset that is boned and cupped. The skirt is fully lined in a lighter feeling silk. It closes at the back with a zipper and then buckles around the waist with the attached buckle belt. The actual interior of the Terry Mugler tag has been cut out.
- Tagged vintage Mugler 42
- Excellent condition with a bit of wear above the grommets and on the belt buckle.
Bust: 17-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam.
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10" from top of bodice to waist
Total length: 33" from top of bodice to the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5137
Reference Photos: (1) Kim Kardashian in vintage Thierry Mugler at the 2008 Video Game Awards. / (2-4) Spring 1986 Thierry Mugler.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
thierry mugler
Museum Held 1986 Thierry Mugler Gold Feather Light Lame Dress w Gathered Sides
I Have a Question
- This dress has been dated by the one that is its twin and was part of the 2014 exhibit 'Chicago Styled'.
- It was made under the creative direction of Thierry Mugler.
- The dress is made out of a light in weight metallic gold fabric that drapes beautifully and is perhaps a touch paler gold than how it photoed here.
- The dress is cut with Mugler's masterful eye and attention to detail.
- It drapes up and over the shoulders with wide panels of the gold. On one side the fabric is heavily gathered and hooks in at the waist underneath. On the other side the dress comes out from under that and is not as gathered so that it falls more down and over the top of the shoulder.
- The side with the wider shoulder is set into a panel that runs down the opposite side of the dress.
- This panel is finished with gold studs and this is where the dress closes. The panel runs all the way down the side to where it splits for the hem. There is even a weight added inside the base of the panel to hold the dress perfectly in place.
- The body of the dress is all gathered into that side panel. It wraps around you and then is gathered into the panel at the back. This creates incredible draping down the body and around you.
- The vertical side panel draws the dress up a few inches above the hem and this then creates a bit of an angled curve along the lower hem of the dress that beautifully picks up the angles on the bodice.
- This is a spectacular and very rare example of his work.
- The dress snaps to close where you see the studs at the side and underneath that there is a hidden set zipper. A grosgrain ribbon wraps around the waist and is attached to the part of the bodice that tucks underneath the crossing over at the front to hook to close inside the dress. It is very cleverly put together.
- I love how the entire dress shimmers in the light because of the gold metallic fabric.
- The dress is partially lined through the bodice and fully lined through the skirt. There are little padding shells set through the inner shoulders but it feels like their inner padding has been removed at some point. It would be easy to add padding back in if you preferred a stronger shoulder.
- There is no size tag present so please go by the listed measurements below.
- Excellent condition
Bust: approx 14-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hooked stay at waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam. Without the stay the waist is 13.75" flat across
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 14.5" from top of shoulder to inner waist
Total length: 40" from top of shoulder to end of the side panel, 49" to the longest point of the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD5118
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
oscar de la renta
Divine Spring 2010 Oscar de la Renta Bridal Collection Strapless Ruffled Silk Organza, Silk Chiffon & Net Wedding Dress
I Have a Question
- The dress is from the Spring 2010 wedding dress collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of Oscar de la Renta.
- The twin of the dress was used for the ad campaign that season.
- The gown is made out of a pale ivory that combines silk organza and silk chiffon with a silk netting. The colour is very soft and flattering. The fabric itself is very light in weight and it is only the tremendous amount of fabric in the dress that adds any weight. The lightness of all of those layers allow it to move beautifully around you once on.
- The bodice is strapless with a slight curve over the bust. A pretty double layer ruffle made of silk chiffon starts at the very top and then layers of ruffles continue all the way down the entire dress. Inside the bodice there is a full built-in cupped, wired and lightly boned stretch corset to hold everything in place.
- The layers run horizontally over the bust and waist in beautiful bands of silk chiffon that all overlap each other. The edges of each band are left raw so that it adds a touch of texture. It continues down and around the waist. By the top of the hip panels of silk organza that are caught wider start to be interest first in to the bands.
- The ruffles of the skirt start all the way up at the top of the hip and they continue down horizontally all the way to the hem. As you get lower down the skirt, the bands become wider and they start to mix a silk chiffon with a silk organza. This widening of the ruffles coincides with the widening of the lower skirt.
- I love how the volume increases as you go down the dress to give the lower skirts their massive volume and pretty romantic sweep.
- For the very lowest ruffles there is a white netting done in ruffles underneath circling the very bottom hem. Inside there are wide, weighted hymns with stiffening and this is all a clever way to help. Hold the shape around you when you stand and move.
- The back and sides extend out longer than the front so that the entire dress sweeps around and behind you beautifully.
- As beautiful as it looks in the photos this is a dress that is even better in person once moving and on an actual body.
- I love that they have made the little straps that you hang the dress on a hanger with out of a wite ribbon with the ODLR in a beautiful soft pale blue that instantly gives you a "something blue" already built into the dress.
- There is a full built-in corset that zips with its own zipper and has a inner waist stay that hooks to close. The dress is lined in a silk under that and there is an inner skirt supporting the volume of the skirt. The inner layer of the skirt is finished with stiffening around its hem to help hold the shape and volume. It closes with a back hidden set zipper. I see a bit of grubbiness along the very edge of the inner hem here and there. I think that is just from hitting the floor as it was hung in the past. It is very minor but mentioned for accuracy.The colour is slightly more ivory in person.
- Tagged and ODLR 8
- Excellent condition
Bust: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 12-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10" from top of bodice to inner waist
Total length: 54" from top of bodice to front hem in the back extends another 15" beyond that
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5244
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
alexander mcqueen
Exquisite Spring 2016 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton Runway Look 34 Black & White Lace Cut Out Dress
I Have a Question
- The twin of this dress walked the Spring 2016 runway for Look 34.
- It was made under the creative direction of Sarah Burton.
- Vogue declared that it was the prettiest and most personal collection since she took over as the Creative Director at McQueen. Sarah declared that she wanted the collection to be "believable, touchable, soft.". Vogue's review noted that "The beautiful dresses speak for themselves. Everything about them in times when every camera phone has a zoom lens and can be examined in all their extraordinary detail, down to the finest stitches and the Couture level embroidery.
- This was one of the series of lace pieces in the show and I love the contrasting black-and-white lace used for the dress and how it is all set on a nude netting.
- On the runway the front buttons were left open above and below a single closed button at the centre. A jewelled body harness was worn underneath and over the dress for added detail and it was styled over pants, showing how you are able to style this in many ways.
- The dress is set high around the neck with cut outs between the straps that wrap around the neck and the ones curving over each shoulder. The front lace inset is a deep white ivory and it closes with black silk covered buttons that are all functional. Black lace panels wrap around you to the back.
- At the back you see the same combination of the white lace running down the centre of the dress and the black around the sides. Here there are deep open cut outs on either side of the white lace. There is another row of buttons there as well and these are also functional.
- Leaving buttons opened or fully close changes the look of the dress substantially.
- More buttons sit around the waist cut outs and you could in theory button them high and change how the dress sits. Leaving them open leaves the sides of your waist open and exposed.
- The skirt is absolutely magnificent. It is made out of layers of black lace set in overlapping ruffles. At the front there are two layers of ruffles and then the dress is quite open under that down the full front. We included a photo of an all white version of the dress from the runway so you can clearly see what length the front will fall once on the body.
- The skirt fall down from there on either side of you and curves around to the back. There are six layers of the ruffles and they are all set on a black lace backdrop. This gives the entire skirt a touch of transparency while at the same time the stacked ruffles play on that transparency. It is fantastically full by the bottom hem and you can see from the runway video how beautifully this moves.
- This is an extraordinarily rare dress from the Sarah Burton era and it is absolutely exquisite in every way
- The body of the dress is backed in a nude netting and the skirt is unlined. It buttons at both the front and back. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. If you wanted a more bare look you could wear boy shorts or a barer or more covered option underneath.
- There is no size tag present so please go by the measurements listed below
- Excellent condition
Bust: 15-17" flat across from side seam to side seam with the buttons fully buttoned.
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam above the cut outs, 13-14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam under the cut outs.
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam of the inner piece above where the tiers start. The skirt is full and open under that.
Bodice: 11" from top of the shoulder to the highest point at the side where the cut out begins, approx 16" to the the same under the cut out and 24" to the sea of the inner piece the hips were measured at.
Total length: 27" from top of the shoulder to the shortest point of the front hem, 62.5" to the longest point of the back hem.
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5241
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
todd oldham
Incredible & Rare Fall 1995 Todd Oldham Runway Black Silk Creoe Dress w Large Crystal Detailing
I Have a Question
- The twin of this dress walked the runway for the Fall 1995 show.
- It was made under the creative direction of Todd Oldham.
- In an interview with Fashion TV Oldham said that the Fall 1995 show "was the biggest collection he had ever done, it was more well rounded, and that he thought he liked it better than any collection he had ever done... It is rich without being alienating"
- Todd Oldham showed his first collection in 1981 and officially launched his label in 1989. In 1991 he won the Perry Ellis Award for New Fashion Talent. By 1995 he was the darling of the media. His shows were extravagant and all of the reigning supermodels of the day walked his runways.
- Nothing from his label was being produced in great quantities and the more extravagant dresses like this one are extremely rare and hard to find because they were made in such limited quantities.
- The dress is made out of a black silk crepe that has a very slight ribbed texture to it. It has a sleek and simple feel to it that perfectly reflects the 1990s. At the same time it has a very elaborate crystal rhinestone detailing done for the straps that elevates the dress perfectly
- The upper bodice has attached silver metal linked chains that are flexible and have a series of hand set crystal rhinestones set side-by-side along the lengths of the chain and are held in place by prongs set on a mesh ribbon backdrop.
- The front sweeps up to the neck to a centre peak and the attached rhinestone chains wraps around the neck and then runs down the sides of the back to attach to back of the dress. The first chain is set along the top edge of the dress and runs closer to the neck before curving down the back. The second series of chains are set below that and follow the same line just a few inches apart. I love the crisscross shape that this creates at the front. You can see on the runway pictures how this sits on the body. It is interesting to know that there are no claps or closures. You have to put the dress on and then slip your arms through so that they sit on top of your shoulders.
- The chains are made out of big chunky glass crystal rhinestones that are very high quality. The pattern on each chain combines a large marquise shaped stone set between two stacked round rhinestones on either side. They are gorgeous.
- The dress skims over the bust and curves in at the waist. At the back the upper back is left bare and exposed.
- It curves back out over the hips and then the skirt falls to the floor and gently widens out to the hem. The bottom of the skirt flares out a touch and this gives it some extra fullness and movement as you walk
- The dress is fully lined in a black silk and closes with a back zipper. There are little soft half cup sewn into the front bust area. Some of the ribbon backing of the chains has come loose where the glue has given out. It appears to sit properly once on regardless, but if you want my seamstress to look at this before sending let me know when you place your order. Please see the photo after the label shot. Hand work throughout.
- Tagged a vintage Oldham medium
- Excellent condition
Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 61" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5226
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Iconic Spring 1985 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway Pale Green Silk Dress w Front Plunge & Tie
I Have a Question
- This amazing dress is from the Spring 1985 Haute Couture collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of Yves Saint Laurent.
- The dress would have been made completely by hand in the Paris atelier.
- On the runway the dress was shown in a brilliant pink. I am sure that this green colour was a special order by a Couture client.
- Jerry Hall was photographed in one that season and we have included other references for it as well so you can see how fabulous this sits on the body
- The dress has a very Old Hollywood / 1940s feel that I love. This is an era that Yves often touched upon in his work.
- It is made out of a pale grass green silk crepe that drapes beautifully once on.
- The shoulders are shaped with handmade padding inside and the sleeves are more generous through the upper part and then narrow as they reach the cuff. Each sleeve has a little handset zipper at the wrist.
- The front comes down in a V and I love how the silk has been draped and brought over from the sides to extend into ties that sit at the base of the V at the waist. This is an extremely clever way to hide all of the closures for the dress. Underneath the tie and extending down a few inches under the waist are hidden snaps and hooks that close the dress around you all while giving the illusion that you have simply tied the dress in place.
- The skirt is gathered in under that to fall to the floor. As it reaches the hem it widens out quite a bit so that when you move it has beautiful movement around you. The back also extends a little longer than the front hand for a sweep of extra movement behind you. Yves was a master at manipulating fabric to fall perfectly over the body.
- The dress is not perfect but is wearable if you do not mind that it does have some small flaws. Please make sure to read the full description below carefully. This is still an outstanding example of his work during this time period.
- The dress is fully lined in a green silk and closes with a series of snaps and hooks at the front waist. Zipper sits at each wrist. The dress has fading across the top of each shoulder and some slight fading throughout. The hem has fallen down in places and there is a touch of grubbiness and fading around the edge of the hem. There is a series of little dots near the seam at the back. The actual silk is sound and stable. The dress could potentially be dyed if you preferred not to wear it as is. Sold as found and priced accordingly.
- There is no size tag present since it is a Couture piece. Please check the measurements below.
- Great overall condition.
Sleeves: 29" and are 15" around the upper arm
Slightly extended shoulders: 16.5"
Bust: 16-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13-14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 59" from top of shoulder to front hem and the back extends another 6"
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5209
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
rochas
Prettiest 2000s Rochas by Olivier Theyskens Blue Silk Floral Watercolour Dress w Ruffles & Velvet Trim
I Have a Question
- I purchased this many years ago and was told this was a dress made under the creative direction of Olivier Theyskens.
- Theyskens debuted at Rochas in 2003 at the age of 25 and stayed at the brand until Spring 2015.
- The dress has a beautiful Victorian feel to it and the fabric is gorgeous. It is very light in weight and feels like a fine silk organza mix. Onto it is a stunning washed watercolour feeling floral print that covers the entire dress. It is very pretty.
- A pretty ruffle circles the collar and ruffles continue down the front on either side of the buttons. The bodice is detailed with stripes of black flat pile cotton velvet and the buttons are covered in that same fabric. The seams are exposed and deliberately top stitched with a embroidered feeling thread. The sleeves are long and each ends in a wide cuff that has a little bit of velvet detail.
- It skims over the bust and waist and is cut to be more full and easy through the body. The bodice extends down past the waist to a seam that sits on the top of the hip. The skirt is attached above the seam with an exposed serging all the way around you.
- The skirt falls from there to the floor and it is wonderfully full. It is gathered in around the seam at the hip and then opens out as it near the hem. The lower portion of the skirt is covered in the same detailing that we see on the bodice, combining the velvet ribbon, exposed seams and ruffles, but on the skirt it is flipped horizontally to wrap around you. Underneath the skirt is lined in a black woven netting that helps to hold the shape.
- It is beautifully detailed and the design is properly and carefully thought out and executed. Its loose easy cut through the body make it an easy to fit dress. I think you could even belt this to create a completely different feel to the dress and add more shape.
- They bodice is unlined and has a touch of transparency to it. The skirt is lined in black netting as described above. It closes at the front with the black velvet buttons. Each cuff closes with a series of five hidden hook and eye. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.
- There is no size tag present so please go by the measurements listed below
- Excellent condition
Sleeves: 26.5" and are 11" around the upper arm
Inset shoulders: 12"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam at the top of the hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural hips: open
Bodice: 19" from top and shoulder to waist
Total length: 61" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD5189
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
fendi
Spring 2008 Fendi by Karl Lagerfeld Runway Look 19 & Ad Campaign Silk Organza & Chiffon Print Dress
I Have a Question
- The twin of this dress walked the Spring 2008 Fendi runway for Look 19.
- It was made under the creative direction of Karl Lagerfeld
- This was a highly documented collection and this dress and versions of the dress especially were the outstanding pieces. On the runway it was shown with a belt that was sold separately in the shops. A version was included in the Met Museum's 2023 exhibition "A line of beauty". Its twin was used for the ad campaign that season and it, and a version of it, were used in editorials that year.
- The dress is very interesting in how it is made. There is a silk organza outer layer with its circular print on the skirt and more print on the sides of the bodice. Underneath that layer of the skirt is a second silk chiffon layer that has its own different print scattered all the way around the skirt so you get this diffused feel of the print underneath the top organza layer. It is very interesting.
- The dress is suspended by two tiny straps that curve over the shoulders and hook into the low waist at the back. This leaves the entire back bare and exposed.
- At the front, two triangles of fabric curve up to meet those straps and are plunged to the waist. A panel of printed silk has been set in behind those to provide some coverage and also add yet another design detail.
- The waist is defined by a wide band of the organza and then the two layers of the silk fall from there to make the skirt. Depending on your height this will fall mid-calf or slightly lower. The skirt has many yards of silk organza and silk chiffon underneath that and it has the most incredible movement as a result. The lightness of both those fabrics allow it to pick up the slightest bit of air.
- The printed silk chiffon layer under the skirt acts as the lining and the bodice is backed in silk chiffon. It closes with a hidden set zipper at the back with two button buttons on the waistband. I see a couple of small marks. There are to faint dots underneath the band at the front to the side, a mark in the print of the skirt and another near the hem. All are fairly faint and because of the print and amount of fabric do not create a huge impact. Please see the photos after the label shot
- Tagged a vintage Fendi 38
- Excellent overall condition
Bust: the front triangles covers to a total of 16" flat across from side to side
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 13" from top of shoulder to top seam of the 3" band at the waist
Total length: 50" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5184
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
valentino
Elaborate Spring 2019 Valentino by Pierpaolo Piccioli Black Net Skirt w Hand Beading & Silk Chiffon Insets
I Have a Question
- This skirt is a production piece for the shops from the Spring 2019 collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of Pierpaolo Piccioli.
- On the runway a dress shown for Look 60 had similar a beaded design over its surface. We have added that runway reference for you here.
- Vogue succinctly said that "In a season when there’s been so much talk about the appreciation of couture dressmaking and craft skills, Piccioli just took it to the ultimate. It was as accomplished, as complexly cut—and as simple as that."
- The high level of craft put into a hand embroidered and beaded piece like this is evident in the price tag. The original cost of the skirt was £12,285.
- The skirt is outstanding and is beautiful to see in person. There is an inner silk skirt that snaps into place around the inner band of the waist. I love that this gives you the choice to wear the skirt fully opaque, or you can snap the lining out and have the skirt be more transparent.
- Over the inner lining is a layer of black netting and then the top layer combines tulle with insets of a light grey and deep dusty blue grey silk chiffon. Silver metallic thread and tiny silver beads run in swirling designs over the entire skirt. And if you look carefully, you see that there is one unexpected little pink pop of silk chiffon. I love that unexpected detail.
- The waist is banded with a black grosgrain that folds inwards. The inner skirt snaps onto that band so that the snaps are hidden from view.
- The skirt falls from there and has quite a bit of room through the hips so it is an easy fit. It widens out as it nears the hem. There is quite a lot of fabric in the skirt and it moves beautifully around you when you move.
- The black silk lining snaps into place as described above and both the lining and outer skirt have a zipper at the side. Without the lining snapped in the skirt has a touch of transparency. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.
- Tagged a modern Valentino 38
- Excellent condition
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Total length: 40" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5176
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
thierry mugler
Rare Fall 2001 Thierry Mugler Runway Purple Silk Crepe Dress w the Most Incredible Open Cuts Outs
I Have a Question
- The twin of this dress walk the runway for the Fall 2001 collection and both this purple and a black version were shown on the runway.
- The dress was made under the creative direction of Thierry Mugler.
- Mugler was a masterpiece of draping and cut and this is a fantastic example of that. It is cut with Mugler's masterful eye and attention to detail.
- The dress is extremely difficult to show on a dress form because of the cut through the upper body and arms so please refer to the runway photos for reference. It is spectacular on the body.
- The dress is made out of a purple silk crepe mix that has a slight texture to it.
- A high collar wraps around the neck and the collar is detailed with a silver metal mesh. Onto the mesh are various sized rhinestones set in silver bases. All of them are stitched on one top spot only so they have this incredible little bit of movement.
- A long keyhole at the front open in a V all the way to an empire set seam at the waist. At the back there is an open slit down to the waist seam so you get a flash of skin there as well.
- The waist is defined with a wide band of the same purple fabric and I love how it curves upward at the front to meet the bottom of the keyhole there.
- The skirt flows over the hips and gently widens out as it nears the hem. There is a high slit up the centre front seam which lets a bit of a leg to show when you walk.
- The sleeves are spectacular. They are split on an angle coming out from the collar. The open split runs all the way down to just above the elbow and then they narrow down to the cuff from there. This gives them an incredible amount of movement around your arms.
- Each cuff ends in the same highly detailed mesh and rhinestone combination that you see on the collar of the dress and I love how this ties everything together. The cuffs are set on an angle where they fall past the hymn of the sleeve with the mesh ending in a point so that it goes down and over the top of your hand.
- The dress is fully lined in a black silk and closes with a hidden set back zipper under the slit. It hooks to close at the back of the neck and each cuff has a zipper closure.
- Tagged a vintage Mugler 42
- Excellent condition
Sleeves: approx 26" and the metal mesh falls another 4.5" past that. The upper arm is open because of the open slits. The neck is 14" from end to end
Bust: 16-18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10.5" from neck to seam under the keyhole
Total length: 62" from neck to hem
Slit: 25" from the hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5165
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I Have a Question
Bust: 15-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14.5-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18-21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: approx 60" from neck to hem with the length adjustable by how tight or loose you tie it behind the neck
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD5157
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
emanuel ungaro
Fall 1989 Emanuel Ungaro Haute Couture Runway Silver Strapless Mini Dress
I Have a Question
- The twin of this dress walked the runway for the Fall 1989 Haute Couture Runway
- It was made under the creative direction of Emanuel Ungaro
- The dress is made out of a handmade French lace in a pale silver grey with ivory cord overlay and subtle silver thread woven throughout. It is extremely beautiful.
- It would have been completely made by hand in the Paris Atelier
- It is fitted and shaped through the bodice with internal boning and structure. I love the soft curve at the top edge.
- The lace has been hand draped over the bust and it is swept up to one hip with a tiny handmade flower in a matching lace.
- It curves down and over the hips to the top of the thigh and the bottom of the full bodice is set on an angle.
- The skirt is gathered in and up underneath that. It is tightly gathered all the way around the lower portion of the dress which gives it incredible movement when you move.
- The dress is fully lined in a silver grey silk and closes with a hidden set, zipper, offset at the back and part of the fabric from the back extends and wraps to hook under the flower at the front. An inner waist stay hooks to close.
- Its proper Haute Couture label present
- There is no size tag present so please go by the listed measurements below.
- Excellent condition and appears to have been worn very little if at all.
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 29" from top of bodice to shortest part of hem, 31" to the longest part of hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5154
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Cruise 2016 Yves Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane Couture Black Dress w Mesh & Crystal Front
I Have a Question
- This is a very rare and unusual piece of YSL because it has the added information on the tags of that it is a piece of Couture.
- At this time Hedi Slimane was the creative director and he had re-opened the Couture division at the YSL label. The couture line was not for the general public but was reserved for a select group of friends and clients, making it even more exclusive than traditional couture.
- A couture collection was presented for Fall 2016 in Paris but it was not officially a part of the Couture schedule.
- All of that sums up to make this dress one of the pieces that he most likely made as a custom-made piece for a client. Because YSL had not officially joined the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Parisienne it would officially be considered to be demi-couture.
- This is an extremely rare piece from his time at the label made even more special because it has all its original tags in place.
- The dress is made from a fine black wool that has a touch of a texture to it.
- It is sharply tailored and touches on the famous YSL tuxedo variations that Yves' did season to season. The shoulders are shaped with structure and the sleeves are long. Each ends with five hand covered buttons to close the end of the sleeves.
- It skims over the bust, waist and hips and then falls to the floor widening out as it nears the hem.
- The skirt has a very high slit at one side so that you get a flash of leg when you walk.
- At the front there is a panel that has a mesh net inset that has little handset black beads in a mix of a jet black beads and a deep grey glass prong set rhinestones. When this is on you see that bit of skin showing through and the detailing lets it glint in the light.
- Between that mesh covered front cut out and that extremely high slit at the side, it has a very sexy feel once on despite its covered and sculpted feel, making it perfectly representative of Hedi's best work.
- It very well could be the only one in existence.
- The dress is fully lined in a handset black silk and closes at the back with a hidden set zipper. Each sleeve buttons to close. Ribbon edged seams and hand finishing throughout. Some of the long seam Work appears to have been done by hand, which is allowed in modern Couture.
- There is no size tag so please go by the measurements below.
- Excellent condition and appears to have never been worn.
Sleeves: 24" and are 11" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 15.5"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 14" from the top of the shoulder to the waist
Total length: 65" from top of shoulder to hem with just under 1.5" turned under the hem.
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5142
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
lanvin
1970s Lanvin by Jules-Francois Crahay Demi-Couture Metallic Gold Detailing Blue Dress
I Have a Question
- This is a gorgeous Demi-Couture dress from 1970s Lanvin.
- Made under the creative direction of Jules-Francois Crahay
- Jules-Francois headed the Lanvin ateliers from 1964-1984. He has been noted as one of fashion’s 'great colorists with his colorful patterns making his 1970s Lanvin designs hugely desirable and influential.' His time at the Lanvin label is one of my personal favourites for the house.
- The Lanvin label is numbered and the dress has been made to demi-couture standards.
- This dress is made from a fine blue silk tulle that has a floral pattern embroidered over its surface in the same blue. The lining is done with a deep purple silk and this gives it this very unusual colour that lies somewhere between a deep blue and a deep purple.
- Onto the top silk net there is an exquisite floral design done with a metallic gold thread. That same gold thread also circles around the lower skirt in two horizontal panels done in a open chain link design. More of the floral netting separates those panels.
- The result is even better on person as the gold feel more prominent. I love how the gold catches the light from every angle.
- The bodice skims over you and the sleeves are long. Each sleeve has a bit of puff above the elastic cuff.
- The waist is cut more generously and you could add a ribbon or a belt to cinch it in.
- The skirt skims over the hips to the floor and widens out as it nears the hem. The added panels of gold on the skirt help to give the skirt support and help hold its shape.
- Fully lined in a purple silk chiffon through the top and a purple silk through the skirt. It closes with a back hand set zipper and there is elastic in each cuff. Hand finishes and hand finished inner seams.
- The label is numbered.
-
There is no size tag present and the bias cut of the lining and the net give it a little give so I have put the comfortable range of measurements where it will give a bit.
- Excellent condition
Sleeves: 26"
Shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 17-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from shoulder to waist
Skirt: 43" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD3925
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
prada
Spring 2004 Prada by Miuccia Variation on Look 52 Printed Ivory Strapless Cotton Dress
I Have a Question
- This is a variation on Look 52 that walked the runway for the Spring Prada 2004 show
- Made under the creative direction of Miuccia Prada
- Vogue said of this collection: "Over almost a decade of ground-breaking experimentalism, Miuccia Prada has explored everything from irony to deliberate ugliness to intellectual subversion. She’s been there, done that, and has the souvenirs to prove it. For Spring 2004, the designer turned her attention to the stiffest fashion challenge of the day: how to make feminine, happily nostalgic clothes without rehashing the clichés of vintage?“ It was about tourism and craftsmanship, many things,” she said of a show that revisited the optimistic fifties to bring back a full set of densely packed suitcases."
- The dress is made of of an ultra fine, ultra light cotton in a deep ivory.
- It is strapless and the fabric has been done in extremely fine pleats with embroidered edges on some of the pleats. These sweep across and around the bodice. One one side the pleats are hand tacked down in a line that curves down one side. On the other side of that tacking the pleats begin to open up to sweep downwards and start to form the skirt.
- The skirt is made of five tiers of the cotton with attached under layers of silk and netting. This creates an extraordinarily beautiful draping all the way down the skirt.
- The cotton is printed with an ultra fine pattern made of fine little dots to form tiny clusters of flowers. These cover the entire dress. It is extremely beautiful and has a very delicate and feminine feel.
- Inside there is a net and cupped bodice that is lightly boned for support.
- It closes with a back zipper. An inner waist stay hooks to close. The construction of the dress is a nod to the dresses of the 1950s and it is very beautifully done.
- Tagged a Prada 42
- Excellent condition
Bust: 16-16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 36" from top of bodice to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5090
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
chanel
Exceptional Spring 2009 Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld Runway Look 62 Silk & Tulle Dress
I Have a Question
- The twin of the dress walked the Spring 2009 runway for Look 62
- Under the creative direction of Karl Lagerfeld
- This is the actual dress that was worn by Catriona Balfe for the Season 5 premiere of Outlander in 2020.
- In the book "Chanel Catwalk" the notes on this collection tell us that for this show they rebuilt the facade of 31 rue de Cambron inside of the Grand Palais. The collection played homage to classic Chanel style. The palette of the show was mainly black, white, pink and grey. Many of the pieces had a touch of a lingerie inspiration in them, including this gorgeous dress. It was one of the outstanding pieces in the show and it is even more beautiful in person. My photos don't come close to doing it justice.
- The upper bodice and shoulders of the dress are made of a fine silk netting that has a touch of transparency to it. It breaks at the back to leave a bare expanse of skin down the centre.
- A muted silk satin, with a more matte finish, is used to create a tiny little bodice piece that wraps around you. A little bow sits at the centre front for a pretty and feminine touch.
- The skirt falls from that empire cut and flows outward to the floor, expanding by quite a bit as it nears the hem.
- It is made of four layers, a top black silk net layer, a more ivory layer under that, and then two inner black silk organza layers that sit next to the skin.
- Fully lined in silk behind the bust area and the inner two layers of the skirt are a black silk organza.
- The bodice buttons to close with two pewter coloured silver metal buttons at the back and the dress zips to close under that.
- Tagged a Chanel 38.
- I see a couple of very tiny and little minor pulls and breaks in the skirt near the hem that don't affect it at all but are mentioned for accuracy and a repair near the edge of the arm opening. Overall excellent condition
Bust: 16-16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under the waist: to 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10.5" from top of shoulders to waist
Total length: 62.5" from top of shoulders to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5050
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
I Have a Question
- A shorter version walked the runway for Spring 2012 for Look 47
- Under the creative direction of Karl Lagerfeld
- The body of the dress is a pale pink knit whose design is set in little individual scallops that slightly overlap the one underneath. It is very intricate and beautiful
- The neckline is scooped and there are flowers made out of stiffened silk organza mixed with an iridescent fabric that also is stiffened. These are curled inward to form petals. There is a cluster of five flowers around the neck and then ten run down the centre of the front. More circle around the entire hem. The iridescent petals catch the light and add a beautiful dimension to the dress.
- The sleeves are made out of a ivory silk chiffon and each closes with a little domed Chanel button with the double C logo in gold. A third button sits at the back of the neck. Despite having the Chanel button I think that these sleeves may have been added at a later date or upon request of the client. It would explain why they still have the Chanel buttons but they don't look like they were integral to the dress by the way they are set into the arm. I have left it as found but if you did not like them they could easily be removed.
- The dress is unlined and slips over the head to wear. It buttons to close at the back of the neck and on each cuff.
- Tagged a Chanel 36
- The button at the back of the neck has lost its little gold double C logo. I see a tiny little break in the silk at the top of one shoulder. It otherwise is an excellent condition.
Sleeves: 23" and are 13" around the upper arm
Bust: 15-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 36" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5044
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
ralph lauren
Spring 2015 Ralph Lauren Purple Label Beaded Silk Net Dress w Low Open Back
I Have a Question
This beautiful dress was Look 49 on the Spring 2015 runway for Ralph Lauren. At the time it was released there was a editorial that noted that the bead work alone on this dress took over 900 hours. Princess Charlene of Monaco wore one in 2016 and Sarah Jessica Parker wore one in 2023. I ove that this gives you a fantastic idea of how this looks like on the body. The Purple Label from Ralph Lauren are the high-end demi-couture pieces the label creates. Ralph Lauren launched it in 1994 and the label was meant to be the pinnacle line for the brand. The dress is beautifully made.
The dress is made from multiple layers of silk tulle over an inner silk. The colour is a earthy deep golden colour. Onto the top netted layer is the extensive and elaborate bead and prong set glass crystals that are mentioned above that took over 900 hours to apply by hand. The design completely covers the bodice and sleeves and then runs down on panels on the skirt. The front neckline is scooped across and rhinestones have been prong set in an elaborate and dense design just under the neck line. These taper down and change to these to very fine beaded curving lines that run down to the waist seam. The sleeves are long and they are also entirely covered with more delicately done bead work. At the back you have an open V that plunges down the back and exposes a bare expanse of skin. The skirt is magnificent. It has multiple layers of the tulle with individual panels attached around the skirt. These panels have the same elaborate hand beading as the sleeves. The entire skirt is made from multiple layers of panels set vertically and separated from each other from the hem to about 23" up, so when you sit or walk a certain way you get a bit of flash of leg from underneath. This gives you incredible volume as well. I loved the dropped waist and you can see that the dress can be worn with a belt as they showed it on the runway, or without for a more 1930s feel. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a matching coloured silk and closes with a low set hidden back zipper. Each sleeve buttons to close at the wrist. The skirts are made of multiple layers of tulle with an inner silk panel. Tagged a modern RL 4
Sleeves: 24.5" and are 10" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 13.5-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam at the top of the hips: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 19" from top of shoulder to the seam at the top of the hips
Total length: 60" from top of shoulder to longest points of hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5018
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
john anthony
Exceptional 2004 John Anthony Couture Brown Velvet Heavily Hand Embroidered & Beaded Jacket
I Have a Question
- This dress is from John Anthony's 2004 collection and is the original sample from his archive.
- It was made under the creative direction of John Anthony.
- Each piece that John Anthony made was on a made-to-order basis, which means that each piece is the only one that exists, or in the very occasional circumstance that there are similar pieces made, only a very limited amount of pieces were done.
- All of the pieces I have (and have had in the last couple of years) in the shop come directly from John's archive.
- John is one of the great American couturiers and he was known for his sharp tailoring and striking evening wear. He launched his atelier in 1971 and he quickly rose to fame, winning a Coty award in 1972 and then again in 1976.
- This is the original sample of this piece from his archives. We found a series of photos of pieces with the same bead work so you can get an idea of how beautiful they are on the body.
- John Anthony's business was all done on a made-to-order basis. That means that each piece is the only one that exists or in the very occasional circumstance that there are similar pieces only a very limited amount of pieces were made.
- The first thing you notice about this jacket is the extensive embroidery. It is incredible.
- The base is a brown velvet and onto that is an extensive pattern made from hand applied black silk cording, little metal mesh pieces formed into leaves and thousands of different size gold beads and sequins that are hand applied over that.
- It has a beautiful tailored cut with light padding in the shoulders and long sleeves. The waist is brought in with meticulous shaping and seaming so it has a beautiful curve. There is a hidden hook and eye to keep it closed.
- The hips flare out from there for beautiful shape. It is meticulously tailored.
- John told me that creating jackets was one of his favourites things to do. They are infinitely challenging to have them sit perfectly on the body and his are tailored to a master level.
- The collar is a rich chocolate coloured silk and it is a neat rounded shape that plunges down the front in a sleek V.
- The beads, silk cording, sequins and other appliques are all applied by hand and are set into a dense pattern that covers the entire jacket.
- To think of the man hours put into this jacket is incredible. The personal attention to each piece is clearly seen in the workmanship of his designs. His work is very expensive and beaded jackets like this retailed for up to $10,000 and more during this time period which would be around $25k in modern dollars to recreate at this level.
- Fully lined in a black silk with a hook and eye closure at the front. Padding in each shoulder. Made by hand. A one of a kind.
- Excellent condition
Sleeves: 25" long and 12" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Lower seam: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4578
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
givenchy
Late 1970s Early 1980s Hubert de Givenchy Haute Couture Gold Embroidered Off Shoulder Dress
I Have a Question
Hubert de Givenchy moved to Paris in 1942 where he worked for Jacques Fath, then Elsa Schiaparelli, and eventually Cristobal Balenciaga. Givenchy often attributed much of his later success to the years with to Mr Balenciaga and what he learned while there. In 1952, Givenchy founded his namesake house in Paris and quickly rose to fame as one of the great couturiers of our time. I am always pleased to find any of his Haute Couture work as it is so rare. This particular dress is exceptional with every detail on it finished to Haute Couture standards.
This is an amazing true Haute Couture Givenchy dress that is a very rare and special find. Two things of immediate note for this dress. First is the absolutely beautiful fabric combination. The bodice and sleeves are an inky black silk velvet and then the ruffles on the neckline, end of each sleeve, and the entire top layer of the skirt is a starched cotton and silk mix netting that has beautiful little gold metal thread flowers hand embroidered over the netting. I took closeups of both the front of these flowers and also their backs so that you can see the beautiful workmanship put into each individual flower. I also included close ups of the hand finished seams on the interior of the dress. The time and technique to complete this dress would have been astounding and I cannot even imagine how many hours this would have taken. The second thing of note is that stunning cut through the neckline. It is tremendously flattering to have that bare expanse of skin across the top of the shoulder like that. It feels a little bit sexy with the way the top sits off the shoulder to leave that expanse of bare skin. You could also wear it on the shoulder but I chose to show it off. I love that you have the versatility of the two different ways to wear it. A ruffle goes all the way around the neckline and around the end of each sleeve. It is shaped to come in at the waist and then curves out over the hips. The skirt is set into a seam that sits at the top of the hips and the netting is softly gathered into that seam so you get a touch of fullness. As the skirt flows down to the hem it expands outwards to give you pretty movement as you walk. There is a full black silk organza inner skirt under the top layer of the skirt so that it is opaque enough to wear. It is spectacular. This is a very beautiful example of Givenchy from this time period and an amazing example of the technical skills that can be achieved in Haute Couture. It is easy to see why his work is the subject of so many books and retrospective shows at museums worldwide. Excellent condition
The dress is fully lined in a matching hand set black silk. It zips to close and an inner waist stay hooks to close. Completely made by hand throughout to Haute Couture standards. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Proper couture tag and numbered tape present.
Sleeves: 26" and are 11.5" around the upper arm
The opening across the neckline is 18" flat across from side to side
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam at top of hip: 16.5" flat across from side to side
Hips: open
Bodice: 19" from top of natural shoulder to seam at the top of the hip
Total length: 61.5" from top of natural shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4975
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
oscar de la renta
Pretty Fall 2011 Oscar de la Renta Runway White Tulle, Sequin & Rhinestone Dress
I Have a Question
- The dress is from the Fall 2011 Oscar de la Renta Bridal collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of Oscar de la Renta.
- His wedding pieces range from about $10-$20,000USD with the more elaborate ones like this tending to be in the upper range of that.
- Oscar launched his first bridal collection in October of 2002 and his wedding pieces have been worn by some of the most famous women in the world. He once said 'In the same manner that she fell in love with that man, I hope she's going to fall in love with that dress.'
- The skirt on this dress is just magical. It is made from multiple yards of multiple layers of white tulle silk netting.
- The strapless bodice above the skirt is slightly more ivory in colour so that you get just a tiny bit of contrast between the two.
- The bodice is completely covered with delicate little scallops of a silk chiffon with embroidered edges. These sit on top of a lace fabric underneath. Following the top edge of each layer are tiny rows of ivory iridescent sequins. Little prong set rhinestones are also scattered over the bodice in little vertical rows so you get a subtle little glitter in the light.
- The front curves in a pretty sweetheart neckline and it has a full built in hidden corset inside the bodice. It nips in at the waist and is detailed with an elaborate applique design that wraps all the way around you.
- The runway dress only had a ribbon at the waist and I much prefer this more elaborate design that is made from faux pearls, silver tube beads and glass cut rhinestones in different shapes.
- The skirt is extremely full. There are 12 layers of tulle in the skirt and then an inner silk skirt. Under the top two layers of tulle some of the tulle layers have been gathered up in little drapes.
- I did not add any additional crinolines to the dress for these photos. It has enough built in layers in the skirt already that it falls on its own perfectly.
- Every angle that you look at this dress from gives you drama and gorgeousness. It is cut longer at the back so that it flows out behind you when you walk. It is a very stunning dress.
- The bodice is boned with padded inner cups for structure and support. The dress closes at the back with a hidden set zipper. Multiple layers of built in tulle and skirting as described above. Minor grubbiness/marks to the inner hem and the tiniest bit of darkening to the colour of a couple of the scallops near the top edge at one side.
- Tagged an ODLR 8
- Excellent condition
Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam if inner hook is closed 13" if left unhooked or the hooks moved
Hips: open
Bodice: 9" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 45" from waist to front hem, 50" to inner back hem and 5*" to the ends of the tulle at the back
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4943
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Spring 1987 Yves Saint Laurent Runway Black Net & Raffia High Low Dress w Ruffle Detail
I Have a Question
This gorgeous little dress is the ready-to-wear version of the Spring 1987 Haute Couture version. We have included the runway photos of the couture version and the editorial photos to give you an idea of the dress on. This version is simplified version but still has very similar line. It is fascinating that he did this at times with a few select pieces from his collections so that his non-couture clients had access to his couture designs. The 1987 collection is a favourite and I love having this dress in the shop for you.
This is a dress that is not being done full justice on my dress form but it is gorgeous once on the body. The dress sits off the shoulders to leave a bare expanse of skin and the sleeves are cut to just past the elbow. A pretty chiffon ruffle runs around the neckline and then another ruffle wraps around each wrist. The bodice skims over the bust and comes in at the waist for shape. Under that the skirt flares out dramatically and is quite full. The front of the skirt is cut to the knee, or just above depending on your height, and then the edges of the skirt curve down and around to be full length at the back. The fullness and the length change give it a ton of movement when you move. The fabric is so unusual. It is made from a black silk net backed by a black silk tulle. Then onto the top net layer is a design made of black raffia. This gives the dress an incredible texture. The parts of the dress that are not lined have a touch of transparency which is very sexy. This is an incredible piece of Yve's history and an absolutely gorgeous dress. Excellent condition with a minor note below
Lined in a layer of tulle as described above and then there is a inner lining though the bodice and to just past the hips made out of a gold nude toned silk chiffon covered in a layer of black silk chiffon. It closes with a side set zipper. The raffia has small breaks in it here and there that is inherent to the material and normal wear.
Sleeves: 18"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam before it flares out
Length: approx 35" from natural shoulder to front hem, 52" to lowest point of the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD3888
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Spring 1982 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture 'Indian Collection' Ivory & Black Tunic/Dress
I Have a Question
The Spring 1982 collection marked the 20th anniversary of Yves' Couture house. In the book Yves Saint Laurent: Catwalk they note that the historical importance of his collection made him feel very anxious. He was quoted as saying "I am frightened of this collection. I am far more anxious than I was for my first collection. It is a reassessment of 20 years… It is the end of adolescence, the beginning of maturity. I really feel like a beginner." But of course, it was a masterpiece of a collection and raved about.
The collection was extravagant and was heavily influenced by India and the beautiful work done by Indian artisans. There was a play on proportions with wide shoulders and a narrowing at the hips. This tunic was one of the more simple pieces in the collection but it still has the touch of an oversized shoulder and the ease and elegance of a beautiful silk in its making.
I love that you can wear this as a tunic over something else. It was shown over a skirt and a modern girl could easily wear it on its own as a dress. It was shown belted with a silk sash in the advance photos for the collection and you could easily add a belt or ribbon if you wanted to have more shape. The shoulders are padded and set a little wide. The sleeves are cut wide through the upper arm and even as they narrow to the wrist, they are still wide set by the cuff. The cuffs and collar are done in a black silk and I love the contrast to the ivory of the body. It is meant to be worn fairly loose and easy to skim over your bust, waist and hips. It falls to about the knee or just above depending on your height. A slit runs up each side and you can see that he has lined the entire inside of the piece in that same black silk as the collar and cuffs. When you walk and move the slits let you to see that flash of black which ties the whole piece together perfectly. The silk is a rich and heavy weight that drapes beautifully over the body. This is a dress that really needs to come to life with a body in it and my dress form photos are nowhere near to doing it justice. It is completely made by hand and an absolutely beautiful, refined and easy piece of true Couture. Excellent condition with a small note below.
Fully lined in a handset black silk and closes at the back with a hand set zipper. Handmade padding in each shoulder. It is completely made by hand to Couture standards. Has it proper YSL numbered Couture label. There is one small mark near the elbow of one sleeve. Please see the photo after the label shot. The easy cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes. On a smaller frame, it will just feel more oversized.
Sleeves: 22.5" and each is 20" around the upper arm
Exaggerated shoulders: 16.5"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 39" from top of shoulder to hem
Slits: 11.5" from hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG
Item# DD4913
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
I Have a Question
- This set is from Spring 2002 Versace collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of Donatella Versace.
- On the runway this print was shown throughout the first part of the show and the jacket and pant that make up the set were shown separately. I love that this gives you some styling ideas when you don't want to wear them together as the full set.
- This two piece set combines a beautifully cut jacket with pants that are beaded from the knee down. I always love a suit because of the ability this gives you to mix and match the pieces with things you already own.
- The incredible floral print give the suit this incredible rock 'n' roll feel. The jacket is tailored with a sleek cut that follows the curves of the body.
- It has no collar and the sleeves are long with a notch opening up each wrist. A series of tightly spaced, hidden set, hook and eye close the jacket at the front.
- It comes in at the waist a touch for shape and is meant to follow the curves of the body, but without being too tight.
- The floral print that covers the jacket is spectacular to see. The fabric of the jacket is an almost canvas feeling cotton mix with a slight texture that gives the perfect backdrop to the print.
- The pants are made of a super light in weight stretch fabric that lets the pants hug the body like a second skin.
- There is a small band at the waist that is meant to flip inwards and then nothing else to break the eye as they fall in a fairly straight boot cut to the floor.
- From about the knee down the floral print is covered in matching coloured beads and sequins. These catch the light terrifically as you move.
- It is fabulous and a great little piece of fashion history.
- The jacket is lined in an ivory Versace logo embossed fabric and hooks to close at the front. The pants are unlined and close with a back zipper. Padding in each shoulder of the jacket. Both pieces appear to have been worn very little if at all. The hips of the pants have some stretch and the comfortable range is given in the measurements below.
- The pants are tagged a 42 and the jacket has no size tag present.
- Excellent condition
Jacket
Sleeves: 24" and each arm is 14" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 15.5"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom seam: 17.5 flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23" from neck to hem
Pants
Waist: to 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 16-21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 40" from waist to hem with 2" turned under the hem
Inseam: 31.25" and the gusset is 14" from back of waist to inner leg seam
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4895
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
loris azzaro
1973 Loris Azzaro Couture Black Sequin & Silk Chiffon Insets Dress w Pointed Hem
I Have a Question
Loris Azzaro launched his label in 1967 and quickly defined his trademark looks by his avant garde way of defining the body. His work was shockingly sexy for the times. Some of the most beautiful women in the world wore his clothing including Marisa Berenson, Raquel Welch, Jane Birkin, Sophia Loren, Brigitte Bardot and Tina Turner. The label had a certain French flare that women world-wide loved. By the seventies and eighties he was experimenting with volume and proportions and new fabrics that at the time were all cutting edge. This is a stunning example of his work during the mid-seventies. When researching we found several examples of dresses from 1973 that combined the same jagged flame cuts with sequins. I have included some of those so you can get an idea of how great this looks on the body.
This is a gorgeous dress and it is a dress that will really come to life once on an actual body. The body of the dress is covered with densely applied black sequins. They make the dress shimmer beautifully as they catch the light. The sequins start at the shoulder run down the sleeves, over the bodice, waist and hips and then stop about mid-thigh depending on your height. The skirt is set into the sequins in pointed angled that reflects the points of the hem. The skirt part is made from 12 individual panels that are set side by side all the way around. Each panel is a single layer of black silk chiffon that is incredibly light in weight. When you move they move around you. Each panel has only been attached at the top so you also get glimpses of your legs between each panel as you move. It is incredibly sexy. The same silk chiffon is set into the upper bodice and then the back has a huge cut out that is filled with the silk chiffon that dips into a low scoop. It buttons down the back can you see a hint of skin between each button. I love the pointed finished all around the scoop at the back. It is fantastic once on. Excellent condition
Fully lined through the body in a black silk. It closes with buttons down the back and each sleeve has a zipper at the wrist. One of his signature strapless bras is attached inside the bodice which could be easily removed if you wish.
Sleeves: 23" and are 12" around the upper arm
Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: 16-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 59" from top of shoulder to the longest point of hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4347
Reference Photos: (1-3) Marisa Berenson in a Loris Azzaro. October 1973. Photo: Michael Holtz. / (4) The cover of the book "Azzaro" for Assouline - Marisa Berenson and Loris Azzaro photographed in 1973, for issue 604 of L'Officiel de la Couture et de la Mode de Paris, by Roland Bianchini. / (5) Image from the book "Azzaro: Fifty Sparkling Years" / (6) Magazine spread featuring a model in Azzaro, 1973.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
alexander mcqueen
Important Fall 2006 Alexander McQueen 'The Widows of Culloden' Runway Look 32 Net & Lace Dress
I Have a Question
McQueen's Fall 2006's collection was called The Widows of Culloden and it was dedicated to his muse and friend Isabella Blow. The Alexander McQueen site says of this collection: "The inspiration here is highly personal – the designer’s own heritage – which goes at least some way towards explaining the exquisite hand-craftsmanship that goes into each piece as well, of course, as bird head-dresses and McQueen tartan. The collection is luxurious and romantic but melancholic and even austere at the same time. The silhouette – all nipped waists, bustles and exaggerated hip lines – is designed to exaggerate a woman’s form and each piece is unique, a one-off couture creation with emotional content intended to be handed down from generation to generation like the most precious of heirlooms." This was also the show where Kate Moss made the famous glass box closing look. Vogue described that feat by saying; "Only Alexander McQueen could provide the astonishing feat of techno-magic that ended his show. Inside an empty glass pyramid, a mysterious puff of white smoke appeared from nowhere and spun in midair, slowly resolving itself into the moving, twisting shape of a woman enveloped in the billowing folds of a white dress. It was Kate Moss, her blonde hair and pale arms trailing in a dream-like apparition of fragility and beauty that danced for a few seconds, then shrank and dematerialized into the ether." They went on to talk about the collection saying; "The quality of the performance—and the extraordinary workmanship in the clothes that preceded it—was a timely reconfirmation of McQueen's unique powers as a showman-designer, and a far cry from the more straightforward presentations he¿s given the last few seasons. For this collection, he delved into his past, revisiting his Scottish family roots and refining the contents of the rampaging tartan "Highland Rape" show with which he began his career in London in the early nineties. Shorn of its original rawness and anger, the result was a poetic and technically accomplished tale that involved romantic images of Scottish fantasy heroines wandering glens and castle halls in vaguely Victorian tartan crinolines, bird-wing or antler-and-lace headdresses, feathered gowns, and pieces made from brocades that might have been dragged down from ancient wall-hangings." I have also included a shot from one of the McQueen book pages that tells more on the show. This was one of his most extraordinary shows and this dress is the twin of Look 32 worn by Freja in that show. It is fabulous.
This is an incredibly rare piece of McQueen history and may even make a dress for a bride looking to go the non-traditional route or as part of a wedding weekend. And of course it is something that any McQueen collector would be thrilled to own.
I love this dress. It is basically an elaborate silk net tulle piece that sits over an inner ivory silk chiffon lining. Over that he has added embroidered lace panels in black that have all been placed by hand. The dress is incredibly full and voluminous. The bodice is meant to skim over you and the neckline of the tulle overlay is set scooped under the neck. There is a scooped bodice built in underneath that has been stiffened for shaping. Having the net extend up and to the shoulder allowed him to also place the embroidery up and over the shoulder, giving the illusion that it is somehow suspended over you from a distance. The trailing panels of black embroidered flowers contrast beautifully over the deep ivory netting underneath. The waist is seamed and set just above the natural waist line. The embroidery trails past the seam to soften the line. The waist is cut on the more wide and generous side which helps to create the shape he wanted the dress to have. The skirt has yards and yards of tulle with two more layers under the top layer and over the inner silk lining. The embroidery work is even more spectacular around the skirt going all the way around you. I love how it becomes very dense and heavy by the hem and then it trails upwards towards the bodice. It is incredibly beautiful and the pictures do not convey how magical it is in person. It feels like wearing a magical cloud of tulle. Alexander McQueen was incredibly gifted and this dress really shows the extent of his talent. It was one of my favourite dresses at the show. Excellent condition with a small note below
Fully lined in an ivory silk chiffon and closes at the back with a button at the back of the neck and a hidden side zipper under the waist line. I see a couple small breaks in the netting and it looks like there are some minor repairs done near the waist seam. I have photo them all and I've been very picky because it presents as perfect once on. It's beautiful.
Bust: to 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 11" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 43" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4851
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
john galliano
Important & Rare Spring 1988 John Galliano 'Blanche Dubois' Collection Skirt
I Have a Question
This is a very rare piece of vintage and it is a delight to have it in the shop. It is from the 1988 Spring / Summer "Blanche Dubois" collection. The show had a total of 96 looks in it. My client purchased this right after the show and has had it since. The inspiration for this collection was Tennessee Williams 1947 heroin from the play "A Streetcar Named Desire" combined with the idea of the English country lady. An integral part of the collection were the way that he had the hems of the skirts and some sleeves done. He described then as "blown away" hems. Galliano had given his pattern cutters a book on origami and asked them to incorporate the feel of it into the clothing. He wanted the hems to look as though it had been blown up in the wind hence the name "blown away." Interior buttons and button holes along the hems were added to allow the skirts to achieve the draped bubbled effect that you see here and in the reference photos. The collection was critically acclaimed and it was his most commercially successful to date. US Vogue noted that he went from fashion cult to pacesetter with this collection.
When we photoed the skirt we did it to show how you can change the look of the hem depending on if you choose to button the buttons up, or leave them undone. there are many configurations that you can do, including buttoning some of the button holes onto the same buttons inside or leaving them all undone and having a longer length skirt. Another key component of the show where these extremely high waists that you would then put a large belt around. My client told me that she often wore this as a strapless dress as well and if you are small enough through the bust to do so, you can have that added option. There is boning through the sides of the waist that help to hold it up and in place. The amount of fabric that the skirt has, and that unusual way the hem has been sewn combined with the buttons, really does give it the most fantastic and fascinating movement when you move. The fabric is at ultra soft white cotton or cotton mix. This piece was only ever owned by one person and it was loved and worn. It does have some faint marks on it but it doesn't take away from the importance or rarity of the piece.
This is an exceptionally rare piece to come up for sale from one of his very early collections. Excellent overall condition with a note below.
The skirt is unlined and closes with a hidden set side zipper. There are buttonholes hidden along the hem of the skirts and then button sit along the seams inside the skirt which is what allows you to change the look and length of the skirt. I see a repair along the back but because of the asymmetrical hem you would actually think that this was deliberate if you did not know better. I see another tiny area at the front where someone has put a stitch near the seam. There are some marks on the front and along one side of the hem. I did have this cleaned and they faded quite a bit but we were not overly aggressive in the cleaning. You might be able to fully get these out with more specialty cleaning. Please see the photos after the label. It is a remarkable piece of fashion history
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Total Length at its longest and unbuttoned it is 45" and then it can be adjusted with the buttons shorter
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4785
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Prettiest Fall 1979 Christian Dior by Marc Bohan Black Silk Lace Net Dress w White Sequins & Bows
I Have a Question
- We have dated it to the Fall 1979 collection based on the reference and runway photos we found of pieces with similar fabric and cuts.
- It was made under the creative direction of Marc Bohan.
- I love that it feels like a throwback to the work of the original Mr. Dior and that it has such a beautiful feel of old world glamour to it.
- Bohan's work was integral to the labels development over the decades that he headed the atelier and this is a stunning example of his vision. Beyond that it is just an extraordinarily beautiful dress.
- I love the nod to the 1950s in this dress. It has that classic little New Look shape to it that we all love and associate with the house of Dior.
- At the front the neckline is squared off by how the sleeves are set into the dress combined with the straight across cut of the neckline. Across the front of the neckline it is detailed with a wide black silk ribbon that has a pretty bow at the front.
- The sleeves are a single layer of the silk netting are are covered with those pretty white sequins. They curve softly over the shoulders and fall just below the elbow. The transparency of the netting lets you see a glimpse of the skin underneath.
- At the back the netting angles down towards the centre of the back where they meet another wide black ribbon finish there as well.
- The bodice is gathered across and into a vertical strip of the fabric that is detailed with three rhinestone and crusted buttons.
- It skims over you to the waist with a boned and shaped interior.
- The skirt is gathered in all around the waist and there is a great amount of fabric in the skirt. This allows it to fall in those soft folds that you see but when you move it has incredible movement.
- The bottom is anchored by another wide finish of black silk satin ribbon that ties the entire dress together.
- I love that the entire dress is covered with hand sewn white sequins and there two secondary patterns worked through the netting that gives it added texture.
- It is incredibly beautiful and the photos don't truly convey the sense of texture the dress has in person. It is a stunning example of Dior from this time period that somehow manages to feel perfectly timeless.
- The dress is fully lined in a black silk chiffon. It closes with a hidden set backer and a hook and eye at the inner waist stay. The interior of the bodice is lightly boned and shaped.
- There is no size tag present. Please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition
Sleeves: approx 17" and 13" around the upper arm
Shoulders: no defined seams
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 18" from top of bodice to waist
Total length: 50.5" from top of the shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4686
Reference Photos: Fall 1979 Christian Dior.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
loris azzaro
1989 Loris Azzaro Irridescent Coral Silk Taffeta Dress w Rosette Floral Detail
I Have a Question
- Sophia Loren wore a green version of this dress to Cannes in 1989. Hers had a different neckline that met at the front where this one comes out at the side ps of the bodice so you get a cleaner feel. Both are gorgeous and the photos of Sophia really give a sense of how gorgeous this is once on the body.
- Loris Azzaro launched his label in 1967 and quickly defined his trademark looks. Some of the most beautiful women in the world wore his clothing including Marisa Berenson, Raquel Welch, Jane Birkin, Sophia, Brigitte Bardot and Tina Turner. It was a label that defined sexiness and had a certain French flare that women world-wide loved.
- By the seventies and eighties he was experimenting with volume and proportions and new fabrics that at the time were all cutting edge. This is a stunning example of his work during this time period.
- The dress is made out of a beautiful iridescent silk taffeta in a deep peach with coral undertones. The choice of this silk gives it enough structure to hold the shape but still keeps it fairly light in weight. That fabric choice mixed with that full on glamorous cut that it has gives it feeling of high drama.
- The bodice is cut to hug the torso and the neckline is cut so that it is scooped in a sweetheart neckline at the front and then another scoop sits at the back.
- The sleeves are amazing. They are cut to wrap around your shoulders. Each extends out from the back and then wraps around the top of the shoulder before sweeping back in to be secured at the sides of the bust line.
- You can adjust them a bit once on to wear more up on the shoulder or leave them draped more around the upper arm to leave a bare expanse of skin to show across the top of the shoulders.
- The bodice is intricately gathered and it angles down a touch where it meets the skirt.
- The skirt is very full. It flows to the floor in a massive cascade of the silk. There are no additional underskirts added for these shots. All of that incredible volume is built into the skirt.
- I love the rosettes that gather and pick up the skirt all the way around. It makes it so incredibly romantic in feel.
- The front is scooped up and the back is cut longer for a bit of a sweep behind you. A cluster of flowers sits at one side of the waist for the final perfect romantic touch.
- Fully lined in a hand set matching silk and closes with a back zipper. Inside the bust there is one of his signature strapless bras tacked into place. Hand finises. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.
- There is no size tag present. Please go by the measurements listed below
- Excellent condition.
Bust: 16-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips at inner lining: open
Bodice: approx 12" from top of the bodice to shortest part of the side seam at the waist
Total length: 33" from top of the bodice to the shortest part where it curve up at the front hem, 58" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4644
Reference Photo: Sophia Loren in Loris Azzaro at Cannes, 1989.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
chanel
Beautiful Pre-Fall 2020 Chanel by Virginie Viard Runway Look 37 Silver Sequin, Pearl & Crystal Skirt
I Have a Question
I have a small grouping of Chanel pieces that will be listing over the next week or so and they all come from an avid Couture and Chanel collector. Many of these pieces were extremely difficult to source when they were released and were only made in very limited quantities. They are in pristine condition and all but one have their original shop packet that has the extra fabric and style information. These are exceptional pieces for the collector and each is extremely special.
This skirt is exceptional. It's from the Pre-fall 2020 collection and it's twin walk the runway for Look 37. This is a wonderful piece of Chanel and is extremely well-made. The was a Metier d"Art collection which are always the most expensive at retail as they feature work from all the tiny maison d'art houses. It was also Virginie Viard's first Metier d'Art Pre-fall collection. She titled the show 'Paris – 31 rue Cambon' which is of course where Gabriel Chanel first set up shop as a milliner in 1910. She later expanded her fashion empire by taking over six buildings to house her Haute Couture salons one of which was Number 31. In tribute she mirrored the black, beige, crystal and gold that evokes Chanel's apartment, and the famous mirrored staircase. When asked about it backstage, she said that the show was meant to be "the things we like, a mix of Karl and Chanel – the Chanel codes."
In this skirt we see the high workmanship of the luxury suppliers of the fashion industry. At first glance, you might almost think it to be a tweed Chanel piece but then as you look at it closer you realize that every inch is covered with overlapping silver sequins. The sequins are held in place by an ivory, gold and black thread and this is what gives them the appearance of that classic Chanel tweed. The sequins catch the light from every angle. It is exceptional. Running down the front is a panel of glittering crystals that are bordered with faux pearls on either side and the pearls are all caught into a black corded cage. That same detail runs down the centre of the skirt at the back. It is fitted around the waist, but without an added band so you lose no detail of that stunning design, and then it glides over the hips and flares out to the hem. The skirt has never been worn and has its original Chanel packet. Excellent condition
Fully lined in black silk and closes with a hidden set zipper under the back centre detailing. Tagged a 34 and has its original Chanel packet. Current Chanel fantasy skirts start at $5500 and range up to $8500USD + for pieces with this level of detailing.
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4545
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Spectacular Spring 1992 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Look 47 Runway Dot & Embroidered Floral Pouf Dress
I Have a Question
- The twin of the dress walked the Yves Saint Laurent Spring 1992 Haute Couture runway as Look 47.
- It was made under the creative direction of Yves Saint Laurent.
- It would have been made entirely by hand in the Paris atelier,
- The dress is extremely well documented and I have included photos of the original sketch and swatches that I have here from the Saint Laurent couture archive book set that I own in addition to runway reference photos of it that we found. You can see just how fantastic it is on the body.
- This collection marked Yves' 30 year anniversary and it was presented on January 29 to coincide exactly with his first collection presented January 29, 1962.
- The book, Yves Saint Laurent Catwalk, notes that at the time people were expecting a retrospective but Yves actually surprised everyone by producing a full 91 piece collection. There was a definitive tribute aspect to his first 1962 collection. Flowers were a main motif and ran throughout the collection as did polka dots and stripes. Puff sleeve tops with balloons skirts were integral and dresses like this one were a key look. It is an exceptional to have such beautiful documentation on this stunning dress.
- Every piece of Saint Laurent Couture is a treasure but when it's as highly documented in from such an important collection as this, it is just that much more special.
- The dress is made from a combination of a white silk that has been hand embroidered with roses and leaves across the entire bodice. This is then combined with a silk faille skirt that has dots that appear to be hand painted onto the fabric.
- A silk organza bow is wrapped around the waist and I love the deeper mustard yellow tone of it. It perfectly offsets the black and white palette.
- The neckline is scooped across the front and the bodice is meant to skim over the body to the waist.
- The sleeves are fantastic and each insets into the bodice in a series of pleats across the top of the shoulders. This is what gives them the volume that you see.
- The edges of the neckline are finished with a black cord and this runs around the cuffs as well. Each cuff is brought into the arm with a button and loop and this bringing in at the arm also helps to exaggerate the puff above.
- The entire silk of the top is embroidered in this magical, dreamy, black rose embroidery that pops against the white of the silk.
- The embroidery is done onto the silk directly in some places and then in other places the leaves or roses have been cut out and hand stitched in place.
- The waist is seamed but it is more generously cut and the organza ribbon that circles it adds the perfect pop of colour.
- Under that the skirt is fantastically full and the fullness is created by the pleats that are set into the waist and the way it has been wrapped in and under at the hem to attach to the skirt underneath. Between the those two layers of the skirt you can feel that there is tulle and some structure inside that helps hold that exaggerated shape.
- It is a fantastic magical piece of Haute Couture and an important piece from an important collection.
- The bodice is lined in an ivory silk and the sleeves are unlined. The belt at the waist is attached and wrapped and hooked into place. The skirt is lined in the same fabric as the outer skirt and there is stiffening between the layers as described above. It closes at the back with a button at the top of the neck and then there is a hidden set side zipper too close. The dress is unlabeled, but I have seen the original label that came with the dress. The dress had been let out at some point and my client had it brought back in and unfortunately when she had it altered back to its original size, the tailor lost the tag. I see some very minor evidence of that alteration on the bodice. There are some areas of stress near the embroidery and some minor reinforcements underneath the arms. I see slight dustiness on the fabric at the top the shoulders and there is a tiny chip on the button on one sleeve. Perhaps a slight grubbiness along the inner edge of the lining under the arm. The outside presents as clean and fresh and once on it looks immaculate.
- There is no size tag present because it is true Couture. Please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition with a notes above.
Slightly inset shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Skirt: 18" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4509
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
malcolm starr
One of Two Identical 1970s Malcolm Starr Red Zipper Front Coats w Applique & Braiding Detail SZ SML
I Have a Question
This is one of two identical coats landing in the shop today. The only difference its that one is a medium (this one) and the other is a small. This is from the time period that Youssef Rizkallah headed the company. Youssef joined the Malcolm Starr label in 1969 and remained as the head designer until 1975. The years that Youssef headed the line are among some of my favorites and in particular his pieces that utilize quilting and patchwork, like these coats, are truly iconic. Rizkallah was born in Egypt and studied at the Ecole de dessin appliqué and the Ecole des arts decoratifs in Paris. His designs seem to combine that sense of couture lines that he gained in Paris with the colour and vividness of his homeland.
This is a wonderful piece that can be worn as either a coat or as a dress thanks to the zip front that completely opens. We were able to date it based on the very similar piece that was featured in the ad campaign for 1970. Which makes it a very early piece for his time at the label. The base of the coat is a red fabric that feels like a light wool that has a slight ribbed texture to it. The entire coat is detailed with a combination of a deep blue braiding and blue ric rac that follows the detailing and lines of the coat to emphasize the pattern and cut. Elaborate designs run around the hem and panels in the palest possible blue follow the lines of the coat. A floral patchwork is set around the hem and edged by the rib rack to create that fantastic design that you see. This anchors all the various parts of the design and gives a pop of contrast to the colour combination. The coat is collarless and it zips up the front. The shoulders are soft and the sleeves widen out to be full at their hem. The coat falls from the shoulders and widens out as it nears the hem. I took a shot of it laying flat so you can see the incredible shape that it has. It is quite full by the time it reaches the hem. Because it zips to close at the front and fully opens, you can wear this as a proper coat or you can wear it on its own as a dress, which lets it play double duty. It even has weights in the hem so that once on it falls perfectly in place and pockets that are hidden along those front seams. I just love that spectacular design through the body of the coat. It is so dramatic and like wearing art. I love it. Excellent overall condition with notes below
Fully lined in a hand set pale blue silk and closes down the front with an unpainted silver zipper. I see the teeniest bit yellowing, grubbiness to the bottom pale blue panel and maybe a touch of the same on the blue on the cuffs but I am being pretty picky there especially. Grubbiness to the inner lining around the hem and edge of the inner neck and makes on the inner lining under each arm. Please see the photo after the label shot. Tagged a vintage Small
Sleeves: 24"
Inner shoulders: 14"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 57" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4483
Reference Photo: "The Malcolm Starr All Starrs" Ad, 1970.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
malcolm starr
One of Two Identical 1970s Malcolm Starr Red Zipper Front Coats w Applique & Braiding Detail SZ MED
I Have a Question
This is one of two identical coats landing in the shop today. The only difference its that one is a medium (this one) and the other is a small. This is from the time period that Youssef Rizkallah headed the company. Youssef joined the Malcolm Starr label in 1969 and remained as the head designer until 1975. The years that Youssef headed the line are among some of my favorites and in particular his pieces that utilize quilting and patchwork, like these coats, are truly iconic. Rizkallah was born in Egypt and studied at the Ecole de dessin appliqué and the Ecole des arts decoratifs in Paris. His designs seem to combine that sense of couture lines that he gained in Paris with the colour and vividness of his homeland.
This is a wonderful piece that can be worn as either a coat or as a dress thanks to the zip front that completely opens. We were able to date it based on the very similar piece that was featured in the ad campaign for 1970. Which makes it a very early piece for his time at the label. The base of the coat is a red fabric that feels like a light wool that has a slight ribbed texture to it. The entire coat is detailed with a combination of a deep blue braiding and blue ric rac that follows the detailing and lines of the coat to emphasize the pattern and cut. Elaborate designs run around the hem and panels in the palest possible blue follow the lines of the coat. A floral patchwork is set around the hem and edged by the rib rack to create that fantastic design that you see. This anchors all the various parts of the design and gives a pop of contrast to the colour combination. The coat is collarless and it zips up the front. The shoulders are soft and the sleeves widen out to be full at their hem. The coat falls from the shoulders and widens out as it nears the hem. I took a shot of it laying flat so you can see the incredible shape that it has. It is quite full by the time it reaches the hem. Because it zips to close at the front and fully opens, you can wear this as a proper coat or you can wear it on its own as a dress, which lets it play double duty. It even has weights in the hem so that once on it falls perfectly in place and pockets that are hidden along those front seams. I just love that spectacular design through the body of the coat. It is so dramatic and like wearing art. I love it. Excellent overall condition with notes below
Fully lined in a hand set pale blue silk and closes down the front with an unpainted silver zipper. I see some faint yellowing, grubbiness to the bottom pale blue panel and maybe a touch of the same on the blue on the cuffs but I am being pretty picky there especially. Grubbiness to the inner lining around the hem and neck. Tagged a vintage Medium.
Sleeves: 24"
Inner shoulders: 14"
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 26" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 58" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4481
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Spring 1961 Christian Dior by Marc Bohan Debut Haute Couture Collection Jacket & Skirt Suit Set
I Have a Question
- The twin of this set was presented for the Spring 1961 Dior Haute Couture collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of Marc Bohan.
- This incredible set is from the debut Haute Couture collection of Marc Bohan.
- It has the added province of being documented and we have included a reference photo of its twin from that era.
- The book Dior, Catwalk talks about the reaction to this first collection by Bohan; "Thundering applause, led by the Duchess of Windsor, rolled through the elegant grey and white salons of the House of Dior, the happy ending to the suspense story of the fashion year. At stake was the future dominance of Dior, and the career of designer Mark Bohan.
- The Chicago Tribune hailed him as being "Mister Dior, the third".
- The New York Times stated "the shouting, clapping, surging mob at the press show cause chaos in the elegant salon. Bohan was pushed up against the boiserie, kissed, mauled and congratulated. Chairs were toppled. Champagne glasses were broken. People were knocked down. It was a complete triumph for the designer".
- The book goes on to state that; Bohan called the collection the "Slim Line". It was a streamlined take on the original "New Look". He revisited the day suit with wide cut jackets and low waisted flared skirts fitted at the hips. The Times declared it "a success from the appearance of the first model and worthy in the tradition of the great maestro himself. And Women's Wear Daily wrote three months after the collection was shown that "the Bohan flare is everywhere. Bohan has done the impossible. He is a big commercial success and respected by the fashion intellect."
- Both pieces were made entirely by hand in the Paris atelier.
- The set is exceptional and is an excellent investment piece from an important debut collection in the label's history.
- Both pieces are made from a very high end silk twill that has been hand dyed to a pale tan mixed with abstract partial striping running over it in white.
- The jacket has a loose and oversized fit in a soft boxed cut.
- The shoulders are soft and extend into wide cut sleeves that sit to just past the elbow.
- The cut of the jacket is very unusual. It has a row of large mother of pearl buttons that are mainly decorative. Only the very bottom button is functional and closes. The others are meant to stay open above that.
- The button holes on the other side of the opening do not open all the way through. You can see in the photo of the model that hers is the same and that this was done intentionally.
- It was shown belted in the reference photo and I have added a wide silk sash to have the same feel and add shape.
- The skirt curves over the hips and flares out in a series of flat pleats all the way around. I took a photo if the interior of the skirt so you can see the incredible workmanship.
- When you stand still the skirt lays more flat and smooth but when you move you get an incredible burst of movement and volume.
- Both pieces are entirely finished by hand to Haute Couture standards. It is very chic and elegant yet still feels edgy. An amazing find.
- The jacket is fully hand lined in a matching silk and the panels of the skirt are individually backed in a hand set white silk organza. The jacket closes with the bottom button as described above. There is a hidden snap to help hold it perfectly in place. The skirt closes with hook & eye at the waist and hidden snaps below that. It is completely made by hand to Haute Couture standards. The proper numbered couture label is present. There are some natural variations and lines in the silk that is inherent to this type of fabric and should not be considered a flaw. I have added two close-ups before the label shot for you to get an idea of the fabric detailing. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.
- There is no size tag present since it is true couture and was made to order. Please go by the measurements listed below
- Excellent condition
Jacket
Dropped shoulders: 16-17"
Bust - waist: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom hem: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 24.5" from neck to hem
Skirt
Waist: to 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 27" from waist to hem with 2" turned under the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4484
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
romeo gigli
Important 1990 Romeo Gigli One Off Haute Coutre Full Wedding Dress Set w Flower Filled Chiffon Coat & Accessories
I Have a Question
Every so often I am contacted by someone and entrusted with something very special and this wedding set by Romeo Gigli absolutely fits that bill. This incredible set is a one of a kind, Haute Couture made to measure piece that comes directly from its original owner and she has graciously given all of the original documentation on it to share with you along with a full write up on her experience with Romeo and a scan of the Elle article that was written a year after her wedding.
Romeo Gigli launched his label first in 1981 which failed. In 1983 he partnered with Carla Sozzani and in 1985 he presented a 25 piece collection in Milan. By 1986 he was an international sensation and his collections made world wide headlines. In 1989 he had his Paris debut. His work was romantic but dramatic. Hallmarks included shawl coats, which this set so perfectly displays, along with soft sloping shoulders and silhouettes that narrow as they come down the body. Historical references run through his work and his de-structured lines felt fresh and new.
This set has all of the original pieces that Marion wore on her wedding day and even includes the original boxes and silk bags that the set was delivered in. Every piece was made in studio by hand and when I tell you that my photos do not do the full set justice I have never been more honest as everything is more beautiful in person. This is a once in a life time opportunity to own this incredible and important piece of fashion history. The link to Marion's story is below and a short description of the pieces follows.
The wedding ensemble consists of a pale pink silk chiffon top, a gold lace hobble skirt and a deep gold silk jacket or top that was worn over those two pieces. An incredible silk chiffon coat that is filled with silk flowers and flows behind you in a knotted train was worn over that. The original pale taupe velvet shoes in their original box are present along with the hand made hair sticks and pins. The two original pink raw silk hand made bags that the skirt and tops were delivered in are included and the entire ensemble comes in its original raw silk covered box. The final piece included is the little hand held green silk bag that Marion carried that day.
The skirt and inner top are the base of the outfit. The top is slightly cropped and made from a pale dusty peach pink silk chiffon. The chiffon has been hand gathered into soft pleats and crosses itself over the front and back. It wraps around you and closes on one side, inside, with a series of silk covered buttons and then the other side wraps over that and closes at the back outside with buttons as well. The skirt is made out of fine gold lace and is banded around the waist for shape. It drapes softly over the body with volume through the hips created by the layers. It narrows down at the ankles for a touch of a hobble skirt in appearance with the ends curving up and under. It is an incredible design.
An oversized silk top goes over this that has a bit of volume through the body. It is made from a deep copper gold silk with a burnished finish. The sleeves are incredibly long and are meant to be gather along the arms and follow the cut and curve of them. The collar is very high and wired so that it stands and frames the face beautifully. One side is longer then the other and you can shape the wire to give it a quirky little curve in the direction and way that works best for you. I love the open cut out just under the collar. It hints at the silk chiffon top underneath and adds an unexpected flash of skin.
The coat is utterly remarkable. It is thoroughly Romeo Gigli in spirit and it is one of the most beautiful, magical things I have ever seen. It has those beautiful sloped shoulders he was known for and the front flips over into a deep shawl collar. It slips on over everything else with no front closures. It just falls over you in this exceptional drape of chiffon and flowers and then trails out behind you. The end has been knotted and I love this detail as it is absolutely Gigli at his best. The coat is made from a silk chiffon outer and inner layer that has a touch of transparency to it while inside and between the layers are thousands of silk flowers. Each would have been placed by hand one by one to form a solid layer of flowers that shows through the silk. It has weight yet it feels weightless. It has presence yet it feels ethereal. The top layer of the chiffon is a pale dusty pink and then the inner layer is a pale taupe. The flowers float between the two and it make this light rustling sound as it moves that it magical. It is one of the best things I have ever personally seen.
Finally are the accessories. Her original velvet shoes that slide on and then tie in place, the little green silk bag that is held by the tied straps and the various hand made hair and stick pins in their original box.
The entire set will be sent in it original box hand covered in a deep dusty pink raw silk as it came to Marion from the Gigli ateliers.
Everything is in superb condition. I see a teeny smudge of discoloration under the arms of the inner silk chiffon top and the wear to the soles of the shoes giving away the clue that it was worn that day. The silk on the large box it came in has more wear as seen in the photos
This is a once in a life time, absolutely remarkable piece of fashion history.
Inner top
Shoulders: no true seams
Bust: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 14" from top of shoulder to hem
Skirt
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 47" from waist to hem and including the 4" waist band
Outer top
Sleeves: 39" from the dropped shoulder seam and are around 11" arond after the dropped shoulder
Shoulders: 27" across and meant to drop significantly
Bust: 30" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 27" flat across from side seam to side seam and narrows to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam by the hem
Length: 41" from neck hem
Neck: 13" around
Coat
Is about 36" flat across the inner bust and it is about 120" long from the neck to end past the knot and not including the deep shawl collar. It is pretty much OSFA
Bag
Approx 9.5" tall and about 5-7" in diameter
Shoes
Approx a 40-41
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED for the inner outfit and the coat is OSFA
Item# DD4458
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
chloe
Incredible Fall 2001 Chloe by Stella McCartney Faux Fur Runway Look 1 Coat w Bead & Crystal Detail
I Have a Question
- The twin of this dress walked the Fall 2001 Chloe runway for the opening look of the show.
- It was made under the creative direction of Stella McCartney
- The Stella McCartney era at Chloe has since become extremely collectible. The Fall 2001 show in particular was a fantastic representation of her time at the label.
- This was the opening look for the show and in Vogue's review they specifically mentioned the faux coats that were treated so glamorously with added details saying; "Stella McCartney continued with her exploration of grown-up, couture-inspired silhouettes for Chloé, without forgetting about the youthful, fun-loving basics that are the label's bread and butter. McCartney's forte is her ability to glam up casual street clothes. Her fitted jeans and corduroy trousers with zipper pockets, face-stenciled T-shirts and pearl-encrusted draped tops all had an air of insouciant cool to them; so did the faux furs with shaved bits that accommodated clusters of silver flowers."
- It was one of the strongest looks from the show and a true piece of fashion history.
- The longer runway version coat is harder to source. They were only sent to certain stores and were a limited production piece.
- The coat is a 3/4 length and is made from a thick and soft faux fur. The cut is loose and easy and it widens out as it nears the hem for a bit of a swing coat feel.
- It has hidden fur hooks partway down the front and then swings open under that. There is a hook at the top of the collar so you can wear it folded down like how I photoed it for these photos to give it a more loose and easy feel or you can close that top hook so that it wraps around the neck like how it was worn on the runway.
- The sleeves are cut extra long and they are gathered along the inside of the wrist. This gives them a curve so that they follow the curve of the arm and it lets you wear them up a bit so they get that bit of a gathered slouchy feel.
- The inside is lined in a menswear suiting fabric that was one of her signatures.
- There are two zippered pockets in the interior that have little chains attached to the zipper pulls. On the exterior there is a pocket hidden along each hip. It is meant to feel a little big and slouchy once on and I love that.
- The best part about is of course that extraordinary detailing done on the shoulder and collar on the one side of the coat.
- Fine silver metal strips have been applied to the coat to create a series of medallions. Swirling beads and sequins sit over those to create this fantastic design that goes across the top of the arm, under the shoulder at the front, and then runs up and into the collar and around to the back.
- It is just brilliant and an amazing piece of fashion history.
- Fully lined with two interior pockets as described above. It closes with hidden fur hooks at the front. Pockets on each hip. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. It's easy cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes and just feel more oversized on a smaller frame.
- Tagged a vintage Chloe 40
- Excellent condition.
Sleeves: 28"
Shoulders: 16.5"
Bust: 18-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 47" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG
Item# DD4454
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
bill tice
Versatile 1981 Bill Tice Full Length Pleated Peach Coloured Jersey Coat w Gold Cord Detailing
I Have a Question
I love all of the pieces by Bill Tice that I bring into the shop. Most, including this one, were made in the 1980-1981 time period. His easy-to-wear and glamorous jersey pieces have been worn by countless celebrities for the red carpet and events. Every girl that has bought one of his pieces through me has absolutely loved it. This is the first time I have had one of these long open jackets in this peach the shop and I'm absolutely obsessed with it. And I just out a peach dress from the same label that would match this perfectly. You can see that here.
It is made of a soft peach jersey that is meant to mimic the feel of silk jersey. This is one of those things that is a fail-safe piece that you know is going to work every time you put it on. This fabric has the added bonus of traveling very well. It is the kind of piece you can throw into your suit case and slip on over just about anything upon arrival with either flats or heels and you are instantly ready to walk out the door. It is cut to feel long and slim with pleats running down its full length. It has gold cording that defines the collar, the bodice and back, around the arms and the cuffs. There's also a long stripe of the gold cording that follows the ties that close it at the neck. To wear it you just slip it on and tie it at the neck with those ties. The fabric is very light so when you move this has a ton of movement and will billow out around and behind you. It's fantastic. Excellent condition.
Unlined through the body and slips on to wear. The easy cut and open front should allow it to fit a range of sizes
Sleeves: 24"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: to 26" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist-hips: 26"+ flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 59" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4370
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
loris azzaro
Dramatic 1987 Loris Azzaro Black Strapless Dress w Low Full Skirt & Shoulder Flare
I Have a Question
Loris Azzaro launched his label in 1967 and his trademark look soon developed. He became know for his extravagant use of colour, beading, sequins and avant garde ways of defining the body. Some of the most beautiful women in the world wore his clothing including Marisa Berenson, Raquel Welch, Jane Birkin, Sophia Loren, Brigitte Bardot and Tina Turner. It was a label that defined sexiness and had a certain French flare that women world-wide loved. By the eighties he was experimenting with volume and proportions and new cutting edge fabrics. This is a wonderful example of his work during this time period. We found a reference photo of an Azzaro dress with a very similar shoulder treatment and I think this one is even better.
This dress is nothing short of a bold and dramatic statement piece. The bodice is hand draped into soft rounded gathers over the bust. They continue all the way down under the bust to follow the curve of the body all the way to just below the hips. For this part of the dress he used a black stretch jersey that gives the dress it's fitted shape but also keeps it comfortable to wear. Inside the dress is one of his signature strapless underwire bras and this has been sewn into the dress for added support and shape. The top edge is shaped into a low sweetheart curve and the gathers are set to run horizontally down the body. Hand set vertical seams are tacked into place at points all the way around you to give the gathers a slight scooped feel and add length to offset the horizontal lines. It also keeps the gathers from adding bulk. Under that the skirt is set low and i is made out of a black textured silk that has a metallic finish. This is set over several layers of built in under skirting to help give and hold the volume you see in the skirt. On each outer side the panels of the skirt slightly lift up and away from the dress. To tie this into the top, the same fabric and swooping line is used to create that sweep of fabric on the one side of the bodice. I love how this flares out up and over the front portion of the shoulder. It is fabulous. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a black silk with a built in bra though the bodice that hooks to close separately. It closes at the back with a painted metal and nylon zipper. The interior bodice is boned. Layers of tulle and silk underskirts under the low set skirt. The flame/fan detailing on the bodice has wire inside to hold it up. It would be easy to add additional wire or stiffening inside if you wanted it to really hold even taller then it does now. Hand finished throughout
Bust: to 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam and the inner waist stay hooks slightly smaller then that
Hips: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 52" from top of bodice to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD3680
Reference Photo: Model in Loris Azzaro, L'Officiel No. 734, September 1987.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Fall 1982 Yves Saint Laurent Iridescent Purple Silk Taffeta Gigot Sleeve Dress
I Have a Question
The twin of this dress walked the runway for the Fall 1982 show and I love that we found photos of it for you so you can see just how spectacular it is one and how the sleeves sit once on a body. This silhouette with its dramatic sleeves and full skirts was an important element for that season. It is just a stunning example of one of his most recognized looks.
The dress is made from a combination of two of his favorite fabrics, silk taffeta and silk velvet. These became signatures of his and ran through his collections from the start of his career to the finish. It is a stunning piece. The top is cut to skim over the bust with a scooped neckline at the front. It is seamed at the waist and then extends down over the top of the hips. There is an attached silk taffeta sash that wraps around the waist and cinches you in for added shape and detail at the waist. The sleeves are full with a beautiful sweeping cut that starts at the shoulders and remains full to just past the elbow. At that point the fabric changes to to a velvet. Four glossy dome buttons detail the lower part of the sleeve. These are meant to be pushed up slightly to exaggerate that pouf of the upper sleeve even more. The skirt falls from under the velvet and it is beautifully full. The photos do not really do the amount of fabric in the skirt full justice. I love that under the top purple layer of silk there is a lining finished in a coral red silk taffeta. You don't see that inner layer when you are standing, but when you sit or move just right, you get that extra flash of color. It's a small detail that I am obsessed with. The fabric choices helps keep the intended shape and volume. Pieces by Yves from this time period have become an important piece of fashion history and having documentation like this one has makes it that much better. Excellent condition.
Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk satin. The skirt is lined in a deep red silk taffeta and the sleeves are unlined. It closes at the side with a metal and nylon zipper and each cuff buttons to close. The sash is attached at the back. Slight flattening to the velvet here and there along the waist seam that is covered by the belt once on. Tagged a vintage YSL 40.
Sleeves: 29"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 17" from shoulder to waist
Skirt: 43.5" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD2856
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
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