yves saint laurent

Spectacular Spring 1990 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Silk Damask Runway Suit w Amazing Pearl Jewel Buttons

"The end of this catwalk show was greeted by 10 minutes of a standing ovation, following Yves Saint Laurent's homage - via 119 designs - to the hugely talented men and women who had thus far influenced him and made an impression upon him" is how the notes on this collection in the book 'Yves Saint Laurent: Catwalk' begins. The portion of the collection that featured this fabric, done in several colour ways, was a dedication to his time at Christian Dior. The twin of the suit walked the runway for Look 74 and one was purchased by the great Catherine Deneuve who wore it to the premiere of Indochina in 1992. I have also included a snap of the original sketch and fabric swatch to round out the incredible provenance on this spectacular piece of Haute Couture.

The suit is one of those pieces that just stops you in your tracks. It is insanely cut and tailored to a master level. Both pieces are made from a rich silk damask brocade in that wonderful combination of colours that you see. The colours in person are even better than how it photoed. The camera really doesn't capture the depth of the colour or how much the silk thread has a slight metallic feeling sheen in the light. The pattern is worked directly into the fabric and this lets it sit slightly off the base black silk. The jacket is tailored with a sleek cut that has some fullness through the upper body. The collar is small and neat and that panel extends out from around the neck and down the front to the hem. Two slanted pockets are set on the front at each hip and the shoulders are padded for shape. Each sleeve is cut slightly wider at the top near the shoulder and cut on a slight curve to follow the arm in the traditional way of tailoring a sleeve. As each sleeve narrows down to its hem it is caught up in a series of the most amazing buttons I have ever seen. These are incredible works of art on their own. Each is a slight dome that has a circle of little pearls around the outer edge. Three circles of soft gold toned glass crystals work towards the centre and then a large ivory natural looking glass pearl tops each button. Five of these jewels sit on each sleeve on top of properly done silk covered button holes. Three more of them close the jacket at the front and these front three are larger in size for more impact. No need to wear jewelry with this suit. There are 13 of those beautiful jewelled buttons in total on the suit. The skirt is simple in shape so that the jacket takes centre stage. It is cut in a simple slight A-line. The waist is banded and zipper is hidden along a seam that is set slightly to the side at the back. Once on the suit transforms. If you even remotely like it in the photos you will be overjoyed when you see it in person as it is far better in real life and on. Yves' suits change the way we approach woman's wear and this particular one is a particularly wonderful example of how he combined strong tailoring with full on glamour. It is spectacular. Excellent condition

Both pieces are lined in a hand set rich heavy green silk. The jacket closes with the three jewelled buttons at the front. The skirt zips to close. Two slant pockets on the jacket. Five jewelled buttons on each sleeve for a total of 13 buttons. Padded shoulders.  Hand made buttonholes. Incredible. Made to Haute Couture standards with a tremendous amount of detail put into its construction. Proper numbered couture label. It looks to have been worn very little if at all

Jacket
Sleeves: 23.5"
Shoulders: 17"
Bust: to 22.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips at bottom hem: to 22.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24.5" from neck hem

Skirt
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23" from waist to hem with 2" turned under

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

 

Item# DD4559

Reference Photos: (1) Spring 1990 Yves Saint Laurent Couture. Model Gloria Burgess.  /  (2) Catherine Deneuve at the premiere of Cyrano de Bergerac, 1990.  /  (3) Catherine Deneuve at the premiere of Indochina, 1992.  /  (4) From the Christie's Catherine Deneuve Yves Saint Laurent Auction.  /  (5-7) From the book "Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: L'oeuvre Integral 1962-2002"

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