This is one of two identical coats landing in the shop today. The only difference its that one is a medium (this one) and the other is a small. This is from the time period that Youssef Rizkallah headed the company. Youssef joined the Malcolm Starr label in 1969 and remained as the head designer until 1975. The years that Youssef headed the line are among some of my favorites and in particular his pieces that utilize quilting and patchwork, like these coats,  are truly iconic. Rizkallah was born in Egypt and studied at the Ecole de dessin appliqué and the Ecole des arts decoratifs in Paris. His designs seem to combine that sense of couture lines that he gained in Paris with the colour and vividness of his homeland. 

This is a wonderful piece that can be worn as either a coat or as a dress thanks to the zip front that completely opens. We were able to date it based on the very similar piece that was featured in the ad campaign for 1970. Which makes it a very early piece for his time at the label. The base of the coat is a red fabric that feels like a light wool that has a slight ribbed texture to it. The entire coat is detailed with a combination of a deep blue braiding and blue ric rac that follows the detailing and lines of the coat to emphasize the pattern and cut. Elaborate designs run around the hem and panels in the palest possible blue follow the lines of the coat. A floral patchwork is set around the hem and edged by the rib rack to create that fantastic design that you see. This anchors all the various parts of the design and gives a pop of contrast to the colour combination. The coat is collarless and it zips up the front. The shoulders are soft and the sleeves widen out to be full at their hem. The coat falls from the shoulders and widens out as it nears the hem. I took a shot of it laying flat so you can see the incredible shape that it has. It is quite full by the time it reaches the hem. Because it zips to close at the front and fully opens, you can wear this as a proper coat or you can wear it on its own as a dress, which lets it play double duty. It even has weights in the hem so that once on it falls perfectly in place and pockets that are hidden along those front seams. I just love that spectacular design through the body of the coat. It is so dramatic and like wearing art. I love it. Excellent overall condition with notes below

Fully lined in a hand set pale blue silk and closes down the front with an unpainted silver zipper. I see the teeniest bit yellowing, grubbiness to the bottom pale blue panel and maybe a touch of the same on the blue on the cuffs but I am being pretty picky there especially. Grubbiness to the inner lining around the hem and edge of the inner neck and makes on the inner lining under each arm. Please see the photo after the label shot. Tagged a vintage Small

Sleeves: 24"
Inner shoulders: 14"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 57" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Item# DD4483

Reference Photo: "The Malcolm Starr All Starrs" Ad, 1970.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

This is one of two identical coats landing in the shop today. The only difference its that one is a medium (this one) and the other is a small. This is from the time period that Youssef Rizkallah headed the company. Youssef joined the Malcolm Starr label in 1969 and remained as the head designer until 1975. The years that Youssef headed the line are among some of my favorites and in particular his pieces that utilize quilting and patchwork, like these coats,  are truly iconic. Rizkallah was born in Egypt and studied at the Ecole de dessin appliqué and the Ecole des arts decoratifs in Paris. His designs seem to combine that sense of couture lines that he gained in Paris with the colour and vividness of his homeland. 

This is a wonderful piece that can be worn as either a coat or as a dress thanks to the zip front that completely opens. We were able to date it based on the very similar piece that was featured in the ad campaign for 1970. Which makes it a very early piece for his time at the label. The base of the coat is a red fabric that feels like a light wool that has a slight ribbed texture to it. The entire coat is detailed with a combination of a deep blue braiding and blue ric rac that follows the detailing and lines of the coat to emphasize the pattern and cut. Elaborate designs run around the hem and panels in the palest possible blue follow the lines of the coat. A floral patchwork is set around the hem and edged by the rib rack to create that fantastic design that you see. This anchors all the various parts of the design and gives a pop of contrast to the colour combination. The coat is collarless and it zips up the front. The shoulders are soft and the sleeves widen out to be full at their hem. The coat falls from the shoulders and widens out as it nears the hem. I took a shot of it laying flat so you can see the incredible shape that it has. It is quite full by the time it reaches the hem. Because it zips to close at the front and fully opens, you can wear this as a proper coat or you can wear it on its own as a dress, which lets it play double duty. It even has weights in the hem so that once on it falls perfectly in place and pockets that are hidden along those front seams. I just love that spectacular design through the body of the coat. It is so dramatic and like wearing art. I love it. Excellent overall condition with notes below

Fully lined in a hand set pale blue silk and closes down the front with an unpainted silver zipper. I see some faint yellowing, grubbiness to the bottom pale blue panel and maybe a touch of the same on the blue on the cuffs but I am being pretty picky there especially. Grubbiness to the inner lining around the hem and neck. Tagged a vintage Medium. 

Sleeves: 24"
Inner shoulders: 14"
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 26" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 58" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

 Item# DD4481

Reference Photo: "The Malcolm Starr All Starrs" Ad, 1970.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

This dress would have been designed while Youssef Rizkallah headed the company. Youseef joined the Malcolm Starr label in 1969 and remained as the head designer until 1975. The years that Youssef headed the line are among some of my favorites and in particular his pieces that utilize quilting and felt patchwork are truly iconic. Rizkallah was born in Egypt and studied at the Ecole de dessin appliqué and the Ecole des arts decoratifs in Paris. His designs seem to combine that sense of couture lines that he gained in Paris with the color and vividness of his homeland. These felt applique pieces are among my favorites of his. This piece is a little extra special as it is a piece that was deaccessioned from FIT museum. It's archive numbered tag from there is found on inner lining of the skirt.

I love these Malcolm Starr pieces - they really are works of art and the best of the sixties/seventies arts and crafts movement. The fabrics for this one combine a cotton for the bodice and a wool for the skirt. The cotton used for the top still has a crisp finish to it. The sleeves are a single layer of the cotton and then the rest of it is a padded quilted cotton that has top stitching and what feels like a touch of padding inside. The skirt has a slight felted finish to it and then onto that are those fantastic felt appliqués. These are both fabrics that hold shape and color beautifully. The bodice is cut to skim over you with a high collar and matching fabric covered buttons that run down the front. It tucks and is attached into the skirt. One interesting thing to note is that is that it is just tacked along the inside waist. What I love about this is that in theory you could actually separate these two so that instead of a one piece you have a separate top and skirt. It would be extremely easy to do and it would make both pieces far more wearable because you could then mix and match them. In fact after seeing this dress I suspect that many of these felted appliqué skirts that you see by him out there for sale once did have an attached top.The  waist line is defined with a band with a piped velvet band that circles around and ends in a bow at the front. The skirt has pockets hidden along each seam. I love the appliqué work that runs all the way around the dress. It looks to depict a woman and two boys holding balloons and then this pattern is repeated all the way around. The figures and balloons are all made from appliqued felt that has been applied by hand to the skirt. I love the red band at the bottom that finishes off the skirt. It is the perfect pop of colour to highlight everything else and anchors the piece. It's gorgeous and these felted pieces are among the most desirable of all of the Malcolm Starr pieces out there. Excellent condition with a small note below

Both pieces are fully lined except for the sleeves. Each piece has its own back set zipper to close and the cuffs have hidden set zippers. The piped belt snap and hooks into place around the waist. Pockets along the seams at the front. The buttons at the front are technically functional but the opening has been tacked closed as it's only meant to be decorative. I see grubbiness at the hem along the fold line and the occasional teeny darkening to some of the belt pieces. The pull tab of the zipper pull is missing off the skirt.

Sleeves: 24"
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 44" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4169

Reference Photo: Lauren Hutton in Malcolm Starr, Vogue 1970.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

This is one of two remarkable dresses that I have today that are absolutely insane to see in real life. Each is so very good and they are not even photoing half as good as either is in person. The sheer amount of hand work to apply those thousands of sequins, crystals and beads needs to be seen in person to truly appreciate. This is one of those pieces that really showcases the higher end work that the label was capable of. The dress is the work of Elinor Simmons who designed for the Malcolm Starr label from the early 1960s to 1972. She excelled at these early heavily embellished pieces that the label became known for and this is an outstanding example of that. It is even more amazing in person and the photos cannot convey the impact and presence it has. It is gorgeous

The fabric on this dress is gorgeous and you would never see its equivalent in modern fashion unless you are looking at a couture piece. The base fabric is a red silk brocade that has a heavy shot of gold metallic thread running through it that gives the dress its golden glow from shoulder to hem. The bodice skims over the bust and the neck is cut into a curving V at the front. The back also curves into a V and it dips lower for a bare expanse of skin to show. The waist is seamed and set a touch higher under the bust. From there the skirt falls to the floor and widens out as it nears the hem to perfectly balance the shape of the bodice. The simplicity of the shape is what allows the extraordinary detailing that sits on top of the brocade to shine. Onto the red and gold thread silk brocade are thousands upon thousands of tiny silver sequins, gold beads, glass tube beads, paillettes, and pink and red glass prong set crystals that have all been applied by hand. These cover every square inch of the dress and give the dress an incredible 3D feel and shine. The hand work was all done in the British crown colony of Hong Kong, which, during this period of time, was doing some of the best hand work on the planet. The dress has weight to it but it is balanced so perfectly that it is not too heavy once on the body. It just feels like you are wearing something of substance and beauty. The entire dress has a beautiful and subtle shimmer from every angle. I love it. It is just a beautiful dress that showcases just how good hand work and detailing can be. Excellent condition.

Fully interfaced in a red cotton muslin to hold the weight of the bead work and then lined in a silky rayon through the bodice and a red silk through the skirt. It zips to close at the back. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. I see the tiniest bit of grubbiness along the inner edge of one arm. Ribbon edged inner hem and hand finishes.

Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under the bust: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 11" from top of shoulder to the seam under the bust
Total length: 54" from top of shoulder to hem with about 3.25" turned under

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4867

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

This is one of two remarkable dresses that I have today that are absolutely insane to see in real life. Each is so very good and they are not even photoing half as good as either is in person. The weight and sheer amount of hand work to apply those thousands of sequins, crystals and beads needs to be seen in person to truly appreciate. This is one of those pieces that really showcases the higher end work that the label was capable of. The dress is the work of Elinor Simmons who designed for the Malcolm Starr label from the early 1960s to 1972. She excelled at these early heavily embellished pieces that the label became known for and this is an outstanding example of her work. It is even more amazing in person and the photos cannot convey the impact and presence it has.

I think that this might be the best Malcolm Starr dress that I have ever seen in real life. If the other one is great, this one is even a bit beyond that. The base is a gold thread lame fabric that is one solid gold colour. Onto this are thousands of cut out paillettes in a brilliant pink, pale sea foam and bright royal blue. These are mixed with pale pink and soft mint & silver sequins. There are gold beads and sequins, and then a heavy dose of green, blue and deep pink glass prong set crystal rhinestones. I don't think I have ever seen anything quite so elaborate and brilliant. The mix of all of these is astonishing to see. The intricate pattern covers every square inch of the dress and give the dress an incredible 3D feel and shine. The hand work was all done in the British crown colony of Hong Kong, which, during this period of time period was doing some of the best hand work on the planet. The fabric on this dress is gorgeous and you would never see its equivalent in modern fashion unless you are looking at a couture piece. The dress has weight to it but it is balanced so perfectly that it is not too heavy once on the body. It just feels like you are wearing something of substance and beauty. The bodice skims over the torso and the neck is cut into a low V at the front that ends just above the heavily embellished waist 2" band. The band is heavily embellished with more of the bead work, but here it is set horizontally, so that it wraps around the waist. The skirt falls to the floor and widens out quite a bit as it nears the hem to perfectly balance that shape of the bodice. I love how the entire dress glimmers in the light. It is a work of art and I have never seen another one like it. Excellent condition.

Fully interlined in a pale ivory cotton muslin to help support the weight of the dress and then it is lined in a pale ivory silk. It zips to close at the back. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Hand finishes throughout. Tagged a vintage Malcolm Starr 10. Note that there is no colour change in the dress. If the gold looks like it changes in hue any of the photos it is because of the lighting.

Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 12" from top of the shoulder to the top of the 2" band at the waist 
Total length: 56" from top of the shoulder to hem with 2" turned under

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4869

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

Bill Blass became the head designer at Maurice Rentner in 1959 and soon after that his name started to appear on the labels. In 1970 he bought out the Maurice Rentner label and re-launched it under his own name. These Bill Blass for Maurice Rentner pieces are some of his earliest and you will find many of them, like the twin of this coat, in museum collections throughout the world. A version of the coat was also shot on Verushka that year. It is amazing. 

This is the second time that I have had one of these Bill Blass coats in the shop. The base of the coat is a dark brown velvet that gives the jacket a rich opulent feel. Onto the velvet is an intricate hand done design in a muted silver thread. I love how the silver subtly catches the light from every angle. There is piped and padded detailing added to the collar, the end of each cuff and down the front of the coat. The padding also continues all the way around the hem. This added detail is not just a pretty finish to the design it also structurally helps to hold the shape of the coat. The shoulders are shaped but soft. The sleeves are slightly cropped and each is cut wide and full. It closes down the front with a series of hidden snaps  and the simplicity of design that this gives the coat is what allows that beautiful fabric to take centre stage. Rows of silver tube beads are set in a braided pattern edge all of the piped parts of the coat for the perfect final detailing. It is a beautiful vintage piece. Excellent condition with a minor note below.

Fully lined in a matching brown cotton and closes at the front with silk covered hand set hidden snaps. Pockets along the seam on each hip. Hand finished throughout. I see some light wear on some of the silk covering of the snaps. It otherwise appears to have been worn very little if at all.

Sleeves: 19" and is 14" around the upper arm
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 39" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4864

Reference Photo: (1) 1968 Bill Blass coat from the Indianapolis Museum of Art Collection.  /  (2) Veruschka in Bill Blass, Vogue, September 1968.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Bellville et Cie was founded in 1953 by Belinda Bellville who later launched the Bellville Sassoon label in 1970 with David Sassoon. When the label was originally launched it was as a couture house and pieces were produced one at a time and by hand for Belinda's clients. It became the go to label for London society and in 1970 David was brought on to help Belinda meet the demand for dresses that she has created and move into ready to wear as well. The label found worldwide fame after Princess Diana became a client. The original label for the brand in those first early years when it was just Belinda creating each dress in her small couture atelier was Belleville et Cie as you see in this dress. It is a very rare label to find. 

The dress is spectacular. It is made out of a silk ivory net that has a little pink chiffon swirls that have been attached by hand and cover the surface of the entire dress. Holding each little pink bit of silk in place is a cluster of beads that are set to dangle off of the dress. This creates a beautiful 3D effect over the entire dress. The neckline angles down into a V and the edge of the neckline are finished with an band of that same pink silk chiffon. The top net layer of the bodice is set over the inner lining so that it sits out and slightly over the pink silk satin ribbon that runs around the waist. The ribbon is attached and adds definition and adds a little detail around the waist. The skirt falls to the floor and gently widens out as it nears the hem. The back of the skirt is cut slightly longer than the front and there is a touch more fabric there so you get a beautiful sweeping field as you move. The volume of the skirt is held by the several layers of tulle underneath that sits between the netting and the inner lining. At the back it dips down into a V for a little bit of skin to show there. It is an extraordinarily well made and wonderfully beautiful dress. Excellent condition with a minor note below.

The dress is fully lined in an ivory silk and there are built in underskirts through the skirt. It closes with a back painted metal zipper and the belt hooks into place at the back over that. The net of the bodice snaps into place over the inner zipper. There are some very faint marks along one side of the skirt and perhaps a very faint spot here and there on the skirt, but nothing outstanding. Please see the photo after the label shot. Made to Couture standards and completely made by hand. I have added some detail shots that include one of the hand done inner seams.

Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 13" from top of shoulder to top of band at the waist
Total length: 60" from top of shoulder to front hem, 61" to the back 

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4859

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

In 1951 a 27 year old James Galanos launched his first label called Galanos Originals. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. His ready-to-wear line was made close to couture standards and with a level of craftsmanship that was on par with the French couturiers. Galanos was a master cutter and draper and he used many couture techniques in his work. Grace Kelly was an early fan. He was truly one of the great American designers and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world. He is one of my personal favourites. This dress is absolutely gorgeous.

This is a dress that is extremely well made with a very high level of construction techniques. That alone makes it a fabulous piece for me. The dress is made from two types of lace that give the dress its beautiful tactile feel. Everything about the cut is done to highlight and showcase those wonderful sculptural lines that the dress has. The dress falls from lace straps that curve up and over each shoulder. It dips down at the front and the back is scooped to leave a bare expanse of skin. It skims over the bust to the slight empire cut waist. The waist is generous and the lines of the dress are stunning. The bodice is covered with a beautiful black lace with a second layer of lace on top of the nude silk lining underneath so you get a little bit of extra depth to the pattern that you see. The skirt is made out of a heavy corded silk lace. The cording is also a clever way to help to shape the skirt so beautifully. The skirt curves out and over the hips and then widens out to the hem. The top lace layer sits over a deep green silk inner skirt. Having the deep moss green underneath highlights the cord and lace more than adding just a black under skirt would have. It is genius. The silk underneath also helps to hold the fuller shape the skirt has. The shape was all created by clever seaming and cut and it is so much better in person it is ridiculous. He is a designer who cut for the body, not the hanger or a dress form. His work only truly comes to life once on. The workmanship on this dress is exquisite and to demi-couture standards. Excellent condition.

Lined in a nude silk through the bodice and the inner piece of the skirt is backed in a black silk organza. It closes with a back zipper. Hand finishes throughout.

Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under the bust: 15.5" across
Hips: open
Bodice: 12.5" from top of shoulder to seam under the bust
Total length: 52" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4843

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.