john galliano

Fantastic Spring 1999 John Galliano Runway Look 11 Black Bias Cut Dress w Wide Strap Open Back

  • This spectacular dress is a very rare piece from the Spring 1999 collection.
  • It was made under the creative direction of John Galliano
  • For this show the Dior Catwalk book noted that "Galliano took a trip on the Trans-Siberian railway and drew inspiration from Russian avant-garde as well as the Chinese red army."
  • The dress was worn over an elaborate white top on the runway and I love that this shows how it can be styled and worn in different ways. It can be worn on its own as well.
  • This is one of his signature bias cut dresses and it is absolutely stunning.
  • The dress is made from a bias cut black synthetic that he used often during this time period. It is completely cut on the bias. When you put it on, it simply drapes over you and highlights every curve without ever being too tight anywhere.
  • The dress falls from two wide straps that curve up and over the shoulders. The front falls in a soft curving drape. One side is slightly gathered just below the shoulder and I love how this gives it a slight asymmetrical feel. Incorporating a little bit of asymmetry in his designs is a Galliano signature.
  • The back is scooped low to the waist to leave your entire upper back bare with only the wide straps that extend down from the shoulders and cross over each other adding minimal coverage.
  • The draped front is a clever way to add shape while still keeping the entire dress soft and with little formal structure.
  • Set just above the hip at the front is a jagged seam that attaches the skirt into the top of the dress. At the back there is a more simple downward pointed seam. A subtle detail that helps to shape the way the dress curves over you. 
  • It skims over the bust, waist and hips and then comes in naturally just under the hips because of the bias cut. The very lower skirt flares out quite a bit under that. This is achieved by using that same jagged seam work all the way around the lower skirt to allow it to flare out beautifully.
  • This gives you an incredible movement when you walk and finishes the dress beautifully. This flowing hourglass shape was a Galliano signature and this one is absolutely spectacular.
  • The dress is an exceptional example from his very early days. A true piece of fashion history.
  • The dress is unlined and closes at the side with a row of fabric covered tiny buttons. It is completely cut on the bias so there is a lot of movement and range to the fabric. It is an easy fit and the bias cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes. I have put the range when laying flat in the measurements below. On a smaller frame it will drape more. I see a small areas of thinning of the fabric on one button. Please see the photo after the label shot. It is very minor and mentioned for accuracy.
  • Tagged a vintage Dior FR 36, GB eight, US2
  • Excellent condition

Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 16-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: approx 50" from top of shoulder to hem. The length may come up a touch once on because of the bias cut.

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD5600

Reference Photos/Video: Spring 1999 John Galliano, Look 11. Model: Colette Pechekhonova.

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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.

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