Fall 1973 Louis Mies Possible Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Pink & Red Tiered Silk Dress
This is from my same client whose aunt purchased from Ady Couture who I explained in depth in this listing while she was living in Switzerland during the eighties and into the nineties. Prior to that, during the late sixties and into the early 80s her aunt lived in both France and Brussels where she purchased pieces from Louis Mies. He designed many piece for the Queen of Belgium and like Ady, he had permission from several of the Haute Couture ateliers to produce their Haute Couture pieces using the patterns and buying the fabric direct. I also have some new information that he might have sold actual couture pieces through his salon as well. So this may be an actual Yves Saint Laurent. Either way it is definitely the Fall 1973 dress that I have included several reference photos for here. It is beyond beautiful in person and one of my favourite personal pieces from her estate so far.
The level that this dress is made to is a beautiful thing to see. All of the finishes are by hand and it has all those lovely details that you expect in a couture level garment. It is made out of a silk taffeta and then the different sections are all of different colours. Using the silk taffeta helps it to hold its intended shape and I love the fullness of the skirt. The bodice is more fitted and cut to skim over you. It crosses over itself at the front and has that lovely ruffle detailing there that swoops down on an angle to the waist. The waist is cinched in under that and I have added a velvet ribbon to emulate the bow that Yve's originally showed it with. The sleeves are beautiful. Each is made on a curve to follow the shape of the arm. They are softly set into the shoulders and then taper down to the wrist where they close with a zipper. The skirt is a work of art. It curves out from under the waist and falls to the floor where it widens out as it nears the hem. It is incredibly full but betas the fabric is so light it does not seem that way at first. It is only when you move that you realize just how full it is. The skirt is made by altering panels of the silk taffeta over each other to create the ever widening tiers that you see. This technique also helps to hold the shape of the skirt and give its its volume. Each tier is finished with a ruffle that has been gathered and set by hand. The hours of work that it would have taken to implement this detail is mind boggling. I love that the tiers are done in different colours The same red as the bodice mixed with pink and burgundy. The interior is made to couture standards with all the inner seams finished by hand. I have included some shots of the inner seams for you to see. It is extraordinary and the kind of quality and beauty that you will only find with vintage. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
Unlined and closes with a hidden set zipper at the side and then a series of hand covered snaps that run along the waist. Each sleeve zips to close. The inside is all hand done and it is finished to couture standards.
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Skirt: 44" from waist to longest point of the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Reference Photos: (1) Model in Yves Saint Laurent Couture, L'Officiel de la Mode n602, 1973. / (2) Model in Yves Saint Laurent Couture for Femme Chic Magazine, 1973. Photographed by Claus Ohm. / (3) Yves Saint Laurent Haute couture hiver 1973/74. L Officiel 1000 modèles.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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