This is from my same client whose aunt purchased from Ady Couture who I explained in depth in this listing while she was living in Switzerland during the eighties and into the nineties. Prior to that, during the late sixties and into the early 80s her aunt lived in both France and Brussels where she purchased pieces from Louis Mies. Mies was a small independent couturier who did custom work for his clients to couture standards. I have not been able to confirm that he had permission from the houses to replicate their Haute Couture pieces for his clients like Ady did but this dress certainly takes its inspiration from the couture collections. After some research I think this is inspired by the Fall 1982 Givenchy collection. In that collection he had many pieces that had similar silhouettes to this one. Given her overall wardrobe, her love of couture, Givenchy, and having things copied, it is not a stretch to make that leap. It is beyond beautiful in person and one of my favourite personal pieces from her estate so far.
The level that this dress is made to is a beautiful thing to see. All of the finishes are by hand and it has all those lovely details that you expect in a couture level garment. It is made out of a black silk taffeta and this fabric choice helps it to hold its intended shape. On the main body of the dress the silk has been finished with hand embroidered roses. These are made with a chenille velvet thread that is worked through the silk to form large roses that cover the entire dress. Scattered over and around the roses are dots that are made with the same chenille. This gives the dress an incredible 3D texture and and depth. The flowers also add such a lovely and romantic feel to the dress. The bodice is more fitted and the neckline is scooped low across the front. It buttons to close down the front and then there is an elaborate set of snaps and hooks that follow the waist line and carry over to the side where there is a hidden set zipper. The top is cut to follow your curves and the waist is cinched in. The sleeves are a work of art. Each is made on a curve to follow the shape of the arm. They are set into the shoulders with a beautiful series of soft pleats so that you get a bit of volume there. They then taper down to the wrist. The skirt is equally well made. It curves out from the hips, falling to the floor, and then widens out as it nears the hem. Inside the skirt is a full built in black silk under-skirt. That inner skirt is finished with an edging of black silk ruffles and it set slight below the top skirt in length. So when you move a certain way or sit you get just a glimpse of the ruffles at the hem. This technique also helps to hold the shape of the skirt. I think my favourite detail is the rolled pleats that circle the waist. Each is made by hand and each perfectly matches its neighbour. The hours of work that it would have taken to implement these is mind boggling. The interior is made to couture standards with all the inner seams finished by hand. I have included some shots of the inner seams for you to see. It is extraordinary and the kind of quality and beauty that you will only find with vintage. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk crepe chiffon. There is a built in black silk taffeta inner skirt. It closes with button and loops down the front. At the waist there is an elaborate series of silk covered snaps and hooks that close along the waist line and then it zips at the side with a hidden set fine metal zipper. Inner waist stay that hooks to close. There is at least an inch and a bit of fabric on either side of each inner seams through the bodice to let it out if needed. The inside is all hand done and it is finished to couture standards.
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Skirt: 42" from waist to hem with 3" turned under the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.