yves saint laurent
Fall/Winter 1983-84 Yves Saint Laurent Patron Haute Couture Silk Sack Dress
This dress that classic Yves Saint Laurent sack dress cut and silhouette from this time period. It is entirely done by hand and the silk is of the highest possible grade. It feels stupendous on. These sack dresses really played on volume and cut and though you find then in various fabric for his Rive Gauche line the Patron, or Haute Couture examples are far rarer. The Patron Original label was used for two purposes - it would indicate a gown custom made for a client that was not always exactly to the version presented on the runway or was one entirely made for the individual altogether on a collaborative effort between client and designer or, in some cases, especially for earlier pieces it was the equivalent of a "sample" that was made by the atelier and sent to licensed ateliers that made dresses for their individual markets under the strict supervision and approval of the house. This was a way to get around the strict customs controls of earlier time periods, a practice began and initiated by the house of Dior. In either case pieces bearing this label are considered to be Haute Couture. In this case we also have a runway photo of the twin of this dress giving us yet anothet layer of provenance on this beautiful dress.
At first glance the dress seems very full but don't let its volume fool you, these can still be immensely flattering if the proportions are kept in balance when styled and on. I love the fullness through the body and these this give you. The collar is cut across and scooped at the front and then dips down lower at the back to show off an expanse of bare skin across the upper back. The body is full and loose with the skirt brought in a bit around the knee for shape. It can be belted for a more defined shape. Each sleeve poufs out slightly above the cuff. The cuffs themselves are made from a brown velvet and this same fabric is used to edge that wonderful neckline. The silk itself is fabulous and the colors almost seem to have an inner glow to them. They have the feel of fall with their combination of red gold and taupes. It is truly a brilliant dress and when you see it in person you will be astounded at the level of craftsmanship and care put into the construction. A masterpiece. In excellent condition.
Fully lined through the body in a fine brown silk with all interior seams hand finished. It closes at the back with a hidden set zipper. Each cuff buttons to close. Hidden pockets along the side seams at the hip. Finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely done by hand. Patron Original number 56337.
Unlined and slips on to wear. Buttons at the neck with pockets on each hip seam. Tagged a YSL 46 but please check actual measurements. The open cut will allow for a range of sizes
Sleeves: approx 27" but will come up when on
Shoulders: approx 15" but not true defined seam
Bust: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 41" from shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG
Reference Photos: (1) Cocktail dress of black velvet from the 1983-84 Fall/Winter collection. From the book 'Yves Saint Laurent, 1984' page 189. / (2) The haute couture sketch of the dress as documented on page 114 of Yves Saint Laurent, Retrospective exhibit book, 1987. / (3-5) Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon. (To shop the Hermes bag that Cherie is wearing, click here > ) (6) Model Anna Bayle on the YSL runway
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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