christian lacroix

Exceptional Spring 1988 Christian Lacroix Demi-Couture Luxe Label Black Pouf Dress w Attached Shoulder Piece

  • The twin of this dress walked the runway for the Spring 1988 collection.
  • It was made under the creative direction of Christian Lacroix
  • The dress is very well documented. It is also extra interesting because its counterpart on the runway was actually shown for his Haute Couture collection. This dress perfectly walks the line between Couture and Demi-Couture.
  • Lacroix's Luxe label was only produced the very first couple of seasons after launching his label. It was a very high-end (very expensive) ready-to-wear line that was made to demi-couture standards. It was available primarily to his couture clients and a select few beyond that. It was the predecessor to his regular ready-to-wear collections. The label only lasted the first two seasons because some of the couture clients complained at how close the garments were to their Haute Couture pieces. Very few pieces were made so they are almost as rare as finding one of his Haute Couture pieces.
  • The dress is spectacular. It is made from a silk that has a heavy texture to it and then the way that he has gathered the dress in places to emphasize the design highlights the texture even more.
  • It is fitted through the bodice and I love how this counteracts the volume of the skirt. The silk is gathered horizontally and boning sits inside and runs vertically up to the front peaks. A zipper runs down the centre of the bodice and into the skirt. As it runs around to the back it dips down on a curve to leave most of your upper back bare and exposed.
  • It cinches in at the waist and the inner underskirt is attached all the way around you inside. It has a stiffer band around its waist that acts like a corset. 
  • The skirt is phenomenal. It is one of the best that I have ever seen from him.
  • The top layer of the skirt is backed with a stiffened organza and then the same silk used on the bodice covers that. Onto that he has put panels of the textured silk that have been gathered into vertical ruffles and attached to the skirt down there centres. These are spaced perfectly apart all the way around the entire skirt and they add to the incredible volume that the skirt has.
  • The underskirt helps to give the dress the support it needs to hold its shape. It is made out of a stiffened fine mesh net and it has added built-in side panniers to add extra volume and hold the width of the skirt. The very lower edge is finished with stiffened netting and then that is covered with a band of black lace that peeks out from under the edge of the skirt.
  • The final perfect finish is the attached shoulder piece. This extends out from from the centre of the bodice and is a wide panel that wraps around the shoulder. You can really get a better sense of how this sits on the body from the runway and editorial photos.
  • The dress is fully lined in a black silk through the bodice and has built in boning to hold it in place around you. The inner attached skirt hooks at the waist and the dress zips to close over that at the front. Hand finishes throughout. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.
  • There is no size tag so please go by the measurements listed below
  • Excellent condition

Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 10.5" from top of bodice to waist
Total length: 31" from top of bodice to hem not including the shoulder piece. 

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD5762

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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.

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