This is the second time I have had a version of this dress in the shop and I think this one is in even nicer condition then the first was. I love finding Donald Brooks pieces, they are extremely well made and his main label pieces, like this one border on couture in their construction. His main line was basically made to order pieces. Brooks launched his main line label in 1963 with a collection for the Spring 1964 season. He quickly became one of the most sought after of the American designers and his client roster included Mrs. Kennedy, Claudette Colbert and Faye Dunaway. The New York Times said that he was one of 'the three B's of fashion' alongside Bill Blass and Geoffrey Beene. He helped to launch the American Council of Fashion Designers, won three Cody Awards and he designed the costumes for numerous Broadway plays. He launched a secondary boutique line 1971 but by 1973 both of his self named labels shuttered as he chose to focus on his costume and stage work which was really his first love.

This remarkable dress is one of the best pieces I have had in by Donald Brooks. The workmanship and fabrication of this dress is an absolute dream. The fabric is very special and one of those fabrics that you will only ever find in a really great vintage piece. It is a rich and intricate combination of a chenille cording that is coiled and hand stitched into place over a metallic black lace base. The chenille cording gives it this beautiful soft feel and adds dimension and texture to the dress. The netted and embroidered lace that it sits on has a metallic finish at its edges and an open weave so that you get this very subtle sense of seeing little glimpses of skin through the pattern. For the final detail the fabric has glossy black sequins that have been hand sewn and stitched into place to follow parts of the curving design of the chenille. The lines of the dress are kept fairly simple so that the fabric can take center stage. The bodice dips into a V at the front and is more fitted to the body. Inside there is a little weighted piece that sits at the base of the V inside the lining so that it sits perfectly when on. The bodice then narrows into the waist that is set just upwards of the natural waistline. A satin finished sash is attached to add detail and then the skirt flows out from there widening out as it nears the hem. The sleeves are gorgeous. Each sleeve widens to be very full by its end and I love how the ends are finished with a scalloping. That same scalloped detailing finishes the neckline and hem as well and that little bit of a metallic detailing on the underlying lace that peeks out around the edges is just fantastic. It is truly really a work of art. Excellent condition

The bodice is lined in a nude lingerie weight netting and the skirt is lined in an inner nude silk. The sleeves are unlined. The inner skirt closes with a zipper and the the outer skirt snaps over that. The back buttons to close with hand covered silk buttons and loops.

Sleeves: 21"
Shoulders: no true defined seam
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 14.5" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 37.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3724

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Loris Azzaro launched his label in 1967 and quickly defined his trademark looks by using ornate beading, sequins, daring cut-outs and avant garde ways of defining the body. Some of the most beautiful women in the world wore his clothing including Marisa Berenson, Raquel Welch, Jane Birkin, Sophia Loren, Brigitte Bardot and Tina Turner. It was a label that defined sexiness and had a certain French flare that women world-wide loved. By the eighties he was experimenting with volume and proportions and new fabrics that at the time were all cutting edge. This is a stunning example of his work during this period. This is a label that I really love and am always happy to find pieces of.

This is a killer dress. It is really one that will come to life once on an actual body and I hope the photos convey enough of how fabulous it is because when worn this one will be even better. The upper bodice is made out of a black netting that has embroidered flowers worked through it. Each flower design is finished with a series of curved and looped rows of sequins. There is no backing to the netted parts of the design and it is set to dip well under the bust at the front and then dips low at the back. This same netting has been used to make up each long cut sleeve. This gives you a semi-transparent coverage over these areas and this is where that mix of sensuality and sexuality that his work always has becomes so apparent. Since your bodice is left exposed with the way the netting is laid out, you have the choice to wear it as bare as you dare.... you could wear nothing under it, wear just nipple covers, or do as much or little coverage as you wish with bras, bandeaus or camis. The rest of the dress is made from a bias cut black opaque silk that sits and drapes beautifully around the body. It is set to give the illusion that it simply wraps around you like a sarong and has a hip swag on one side that gives it a bit of a forties feel. The skirt is curved and wrapped and the edges of the skirt and the swag are finished with a band of the same sequin netting as the top. The skirt is cut to narrow in around you as it nears the hem. This brings all the emphasis to the curves of your body above. The way the skirt is wrapped leaves it open right to the swag and there is a built in mini skirt underneath to keep it from exposing everything when you walk or move. If there was ever a dress that needed a body inside of it to bring it to life, this is it. It is stupendous once on. Excellent condition

There is a partial lining set from under the netting part of the top to the top of the thighs. The rest of the dress is unlined. It closes with a back set zipper and each sleeve has a button and loop closure. It appears to have been worn very little if at all

Sleeves: 22"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 16-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 56" from top of shoulder to longest point of the back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3723

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Bill Gibb was one of the most influential designers in 1970s Britain and his clothes were sought out and worn by the rich and famous. His work always has a high fantasy element to it and he was crowned Designer of the Year in 1970. Much of his work verged on couture and he was unrelenting in striving for perfection. Every piece I bring into the shop is very special and this one is no exception. Gibb had a great fondness for history and exploring the far corners of the earth for inspiration. This set has obvious Asian roots with the fabric choice but he has taken the lines of a traditional piece and extended and manipulated them to make a new silhouette. I also love how the fabric combines the cherry blossoms print with English roses within the woven fabric to further emphasize his combining of cultures in this set.

The set consists of a very long, slim cut skirt that has a more over-sized cut jacket that sits over it. The skirt is made from two panels that are almost perfect rectangles that are brought in for the waist. This gives it a very linear line from the hip to the hem. It is seamed down each side with  a very high slit running up each leg. This lets you be able to you to walk in it and it shows a ton of leg when you move or sit. Over this is a simple open front jacket. In comparison to the skirt it is cut with a sense of volume and meant to feel more towards the over-sized side of things. The jacket has no front closures and simply slips on to wear. I love how the top of the collar is set so that it kind of flares open at the very top of the neck. The sleeves are long and cut wide. The braiding that runs down them extends the length of them visually and adds a pretty detailing. More braiding runs along the edges of the set and highlight its lines. The fabric is a beautiful bright red silk satin with little cherry blossoms and roses woven through it in a slightly metallic finished thread. This is a rare and absolutely amazing set that is even better in person and is even better on an actual body then on my dress form. Excellent condition with a minor note below

Both pieces are fully lined in a red silk. The skirt closes with a metal and nylon zipper. The jacket has no closures and slips on to wear. I see a tiny touch of foxing on the side of the skirt, a tiny pen mark on the front of the jacket and some slight lines running up the satin on one sleeve. Please see the photos after the label shot. Tagged a vintage UK 8

Jacket
Sleeves: 24.5
Shoulders: 15" across
Bust: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 13" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 11" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 43" from neck to hem
Slits: 20" from hem up

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS

Item# DD3436

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Loris Azzaro launched his label in 1967 and quickly defined his trademark looks with his use of ornate beading, sequins, unusual detailing, daring cut-outs and avant garde ways of defining the body. Some of the most beautiful women in the world wore his clothing including Marisa Berenson, Raquel Welch, Jane Birkin, Sophia Loren, Brigitte Bardot and Tina Turner. It was a label that defined sexiness and had a certain French flare that women world-wide loved. This is an extraordinary dress that is stunning in its own right and could be a fantastic option for a bride or as part of a more extensive wedding event.

The dress is like a magical fairy tale version of all that was amazing about this time period. It is made out of an off-white silky rayon base with three layers of white silk netting over that and another built in skirt under it. He used a white chenille fused onto the netting to detail and highlight the different aspects of the design and cut. On the strapless bodice it is set in rows that are stacked on top of each other to cover the entire bodice. On the sleeves and over the top layer of the skirt the chenille makes little circles and these are scattered over the netting. The very top layer of netting the skirt is finished with is cut to sit shorter then the other two underneath and this top layer has a scalloped finish along its edge. It is then finished with more chenille that follows the pretty curving line the scalloping creates. The cut of the dress is beautiful. The bodice is strapless and curves into a sweetheart neckline that dips low at the front. There is one of his signature inner built in and attached bras inside for support and additional boning along the sides. It is fitted and nips in at the waist. The skirt sweeps to the floor in a cascade of feather light silk netting under the bodice. I photoed the dress with a full length crinoline under it so that you can see the tremendous shape and volume it has. Without the addition of an underskirt the skirt would lie in a softer line. The skirt has enough volume that you can add an even fuller skirt to get a real bell shape if you wanted it to have an even more formal gown feel. The sleeves are magnificent. Each one is cut to sit far off and down your shoulder and is trimmed with a silk satin ribbon finish around the upper opening. They have tremendous volume through the sleeve with a huge and elaborate pouf to them. Each of them ends in an elaborate cuff with the same detailing using the chenille rows that the bodice has. They are the perfect finish to this high fantasy gown. The workmanship is incredible and it is absolutely beautiful. This would make an extraordinary wedding gown for the bride looking for something unique. Excellent condition

Fully lined in an ivory silky rayon and closes with a back zipper. Each sleeve has a zipper at the cuff. A built in bra though the bodice that hooks to close separately. The interior bodice is boned. An inner skirt has bands of stiffened netting set in rows to help hold the shape. The slightest bit of yellowing to the edge of the inner lining hem. You could easily add a panel/layers of tulle or silk tot he bottom if you needed more length

Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam with about a B to C cup on the inner attached bra
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 8.5" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 38" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3720

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The notes for the 1972 collection in the book 'Dior, The Catwalk' tell us that The New York Times declared Marc Bohan's collection for Dior as 'the best of the season in Paris'  that year. There was also the information that of all the Dior collections, the full records for this particular one did not survive the passages of time so finding a piece that is so well documented is a bit of a miracle. The version of this dress that has a higher neck line and tie bow was photoed by Richard Avedon that year. It was also shot for the September issue of Vogue and one is held in the V&A collection. When I found these photos I also found the caption that went with the Vogie shot and I lovedhow it described the dress: "Pretty. That's really the word for it - the softness of everything at Dior. So feminine at night especially...The flirt of the sleeves on a short dress for evening...black mousseline, covered at the neck and yet...revealing lots of skin beneath and lots of leg below". During this time period Bohan often made a series of couture dresses that had different necklines so that his client could choose their level of modesty that they were comfortable with. I love both versions but I think I prefer this lower V neckline when it comes to actually wearing it. It allows those spectacular sleeves to take full centre stage and that little extra skin gives it a more modern twist. You can also wear a wide variety of jewels with this neckline and I think that gives you more styling opportunities. The dress is exceptional.

This is an exceptional example of his work during this time period. The dress is entirely made from a feather light silk chiffon. This fabric is notoriously difficult to work with and when you add in that it was all entirely made by hand the level of workmanship takes on a whole new meaning. There is a slight texture to the fabric and this helps to lift and add volume while still keeping the weight to the absolute minimum. The sleeves are incredible. Each sleeve is a single layer of that fine silk chiffon and they are cut to be extremely full. As they near the cuffs the shape is further exaggerated and they poufed over their cuffs. Just above the elbow is a panel of the same silk that has been wrapped and attached around the arm. This lays over the lower portion of the sleeve and is set so that it flares out. It is a very unusual treatment to the sleeves and instantly catches the eye. When you move it has a beautiful floating movement to it that you can see in the reference photos. The bodice skims over you and a simple collarless V runs down the front. It plunges almost to the waist and is stopped by a tiny stitch at the base of the V. The skirt is made of layers of silk chiffon that are set on the bias. There are two of the black and then a nude silk under that. The shape this creates mimics the detailing on the sleeve and when you move the skirt also will move. At the back is the final perfect detail. It has been finished with just a single layer of chiffon so that you see the entire bare back though the silk for an unexpected touch of sensuality. This is a rare piece of fashion history. The proper Haute Couture label is present and is dated and numbered. Excellent condition with a small note below

Fully lined in a nude silk chiffon except for the sleeves and upper back above the waist. The back closes with a low set, fine metal zipper and then the dress snaps to close with a series of tiny snaps up the back of the dress that run over the zipper, past the waist to the neck. Each cuff buttons to close. There is a tiny area of thinning on the top of one shoulder. Please see the photo after the label shot. Entirely made by hand. The Haute Couture label is present and the dress is numbered #01340

Sleeves: 27"
Shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 24" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3031

Reference Photos: (1) Karen Graham in a chiffon dress by Marc Bohan for Dior, Autumn/Winter Collection 1972, photo by Richard Avedon, July 1972.  /  (2) Dior dress in Vogue, September 1972.  /  (3) 1972 Christian Dior Dress part of the V&A Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

One of the key elements of the spring 1973 collection was the snap closures that Courreges used. They played a two fold role in that they were a functional element that actually acted as closures and they where also a decorative design feature that helped to highlight his signature cuts. In the runway reference photo that I have included here, you can see the same snap detailing. This is a beautiful and rare example of his Haute Couture work from this time period that still feels fresh and wearable even now.

The suit is made from the classic wool that Courreges was using for his pieces during this time period. It has enough weight to hold the sharp angular lines of the suit but without adding bulk or making it feel too heavy to wear for our modern aesthetics. The colour is a beautiful deep blue that has been captured well in these photos. The wool has  a slight texture to it. The stitching and the snaps have all been dyed to match the colour of the suit. This lets you see the seaming and detail but in a way that gives you the full picture all at once. The jacket is beautifully cut. It is meant to skim over the body with just a touch of a boxy feel to it. The sleeves are capped and the shoulders are seamed but have no additional padding. The shape is all created by the cut and perfect tailoring techniques. To wear it you simply slip the jacket on and it snaps into place down the front. The top stitched seaming detail is done to follow the lines of the jacket and become their own design element. The skirt is spectacular. It is cut to be fitted around the waist and then is cut on an angle to the hem. I have photoed it flat for you as well as on the dress form so that you get a better feel for the shape. It has an unusual way to close. There are snaps that run down each side and you can fully unsnap it on both sides. The bottom two snaps at the hem are decorative so that you get a bit of a vent on either side but all the snaps above it open. This lets you open the sides up and leave the resulting slit as high up as you dare. It is an incredible example of his work. The exterior of the suit is in excellent condition and there is a note below regarding the lining

Both pieces are fully lined in a white silk and close with the snaps as described above. There is an area of fabric missing from the interior of the skirt. It is stable and does not effect the wearing of the suit. Tagged a vintage Courreges 00

Jacket
Shoulders: 12" across
Bust: 16.5" flat across the back from seam to seam
Waist: 14.5" flat across the back from seam to seam
Length: 18" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 12" flat across the back from seam to seam
Hips: 17" flat across the back from seam to seam
Length: 22.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing equivalent: XXS-XS

Item# DD1091

Reference photo: Andre Courreges Haute Couture Spring 1973

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival

This stunning suit is a proper, numbered Haute Couture piece designed by Pierre Balmain. It would have been made by hand in the Paris atelier for the Spring 1960 collection. When researching this piece we found similar suits from that collection and I have included the reference photos here. It is cut with the volume and curves that defined the era. It is a wonderful example of the work Balmain was doing in this time period and why they had such an influence in establishing the direction of design during this era.

The lines of the suit are very simple. There is the very minimal amount of seaming done to achieve the shape that you see. The suit is made from a deep blue fabric that in person has a slightly brighter feel then how it photoed and is even prettier. The fabric itself is incredible. It is a mix of a fine wool and silk and this combination gives it enough weight to hold the line and cut but without it feeling bulky or too heavy for a modern wear. It has a cross thatch texture running through it that gives the suit a little extra depth. The suit has a beautiful sculptural feel with an exaggerated and dramatic swing to the back of the jacket. When you see it from the front it falls in a more box cut shape with just the suggestion of shape through the waist. From the sides and back it shows this beautiful volume that is created through a modified swing cut that is gorgeous. The back swings out from the shoulders in a sweep of fabric. At the same time, when I say volume it is not overwhelming or forced. It has a refined feel to it that is charming to see. The seam that runs up the centre splits open about midway down and is kept in place with two large buttons. I love that this seam remains open from under the buttons to created a vent. This would have felt very risqué for this time period. Then to go with this lovely little jacket is a neat and simple cut skirt that perfectly balances out the jacket. Both pieces are beautifully made to couture standards. Excellent condition with a small note below

Both pieces are fully lined in a navy silk. The lining in the skirt is a soft, heavy weight silk satin and the lining in the jacket a more structured silk taffeta. The jacket closes with buttons down the front and has two decorative buttons at the back. The skirt closes with a fine, back metal zipper and flat hook & eye on the waist band. Completely hand finished. Has the proper numbered couture tape behind the main label. The buttons show chips along their edges.  Please see the last photos for examples. This would be easy to touch up with a matching paint. 

Jacket
Sleeves: 17.5"
Shoulders: 16.5" across
Bust: to 21" flat across the back from seam to seam
Waist: to 20" flat across the back from seam to seam
Length: 22" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 15.5" flat across the back from seam to seam
Hips: 21" flat across the back from seam to seam
Length: 24" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD1089

Reference Photos: (1) Pierre Balmain in L'Officiel, 1960.  /  (2) Pierre Balmain in Vogue, March 1960.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival

This is a remarkable example of Courreges and the work that Andre was doing during that time period. I know we often associate his work with very mod and short pieces but he also did many dramatic pieces in fabrics like this. It is a highly glossed, thicker weight, smooth finish cotton. At the time this would have been extremely experimental. I love that this one takes the shape that we so closely associate with him and extends and exaggerates it to full length. This dress would not have half the impact it has if it was shorter. I am sometimes more excited to find these bolder and more unusual pieces from him then the more common mod feeling ones. A version of this one was also photoed for Vogue that spring making it even more special.

This beautiful dress is made out of a coated cotton that has been dyed to a brilliant orange. This was a signature colour for Courreges and it is just absolutely stunning. Many of his pieces are a play on volume and proportion and this dress is an amazing example of that. It is a dramatic piece that has a more bare and fitted feel through the upper bodice and then flares and widens out very dramatically to the hem. The fabric is light in weight but has enough weight to it to hold the shape. The exterior has a coating that gives it a slight sheen and then inside it is self backed with a white finish. It has enough structure to it that it holds the intended shape and volume while feeling like you are barely wearing anything. The slight sheen and texture of it combined with the absolutely superb seaming details give the dress a rich, luxurious feel. All of the seams are set vertically to help add to the feeling of length and the bust is cleverly shaped by a horizontal seam running under it. It then has two darts worked in for shape. The neckline is scooped high on the chest and the sides curve for the arms. Straps extend out from the side and the top of the halter neck and then each strap buttons into place along the sides of the back. All of the buttons are functional and original. The two top ones cross over each other and the one below crossed the back in a horizontal line. Extremely collectible and rare. It looks to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition.

Unlined with a self backing in white as described above. It zips to close at the back and each end of the straps button into place. Tagged a Courreges 0. In its original length and appears to have been worn very little if at all. 

Bust: will fit to 17" flat across the back from seam to seam with approx an A-B cup
Seam under the bust with straps taken into account: will fit to 15.5" flat across from seam to seam 
Waist where the back strap is: to 14" flat across from seam to seam
Hips: open 
Bodice: approx 13" from shoulder to seam under the bust
Skirt: 45.5" from seam under the bust to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML (it should fit a MED if you are narrow and small through the bust)

Item# DD3710

Reference Photo: US Vogue, March 1970.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The Vogue review of the Spring 2003 show was extremely complimentary. This was at the height of Ford's vision for Gucci and he could do no wrong. The review said 'The Gucci girl’s got legs—long, tan, flawless ones striding along on silver peep-toe sling-back pumps. Follow them all the way up, and around two weeks later, they eventually meet the hem of the minutest piece of clothing that was ever called a skirt or dress. For spring, in a word, Tom Ford says short. Using lustrous fabrics in subtle makeup colors from blush to tawny brown, pearly gray and silver, Ford draped and wrapped his gorgeous girls in clothes that navigated that dangerous Gucci line between innovation and vulgarity. The tousled hair, the jackets and tops poised to fall off shoulders—the whole presentation stirred sensations that fashion hasn’t felt since the last days of the great supermodels. Still, don’t think tacky. Ford’s obsession now is integrating fine workmanship into abbreviated silhouettes. He took the idea of a kimono and portrayed it first as a simple silk beach cover-up, then as an elegant formfitting dress, painstakingly made from hand-painted strips of silk. He brought couture finesse to racer-back feathered dresses with the merest flip of a skirt. And with lightest touch, he wove white and rose gold into fragile ribbons to tie around wrists—the most modern-looking jewelry in Milan. When Carmen Kass closed the show in a dress made entirely of the same precious ribbon, it was a confident statement in the power of glamour. And fashion needs that.' To this day this is one of the most recognizable and desirable shows to find pieces from. 

One of the things that makes this dress exceptional is that it is true to the runway and is entirely original. I have seen this dress come to market before and most are the more conservative versions that don't drop as low at the back as the show version did. (There is a photo of Sarah Jessica Parker in that version that I have not included here but it is out there to google). Many of the ones that you see were also altered and if you looks closely they don't have the same original stitching at the hem and at the ends of the sleeves like this one does. It also still has its original elastic across that back which was meant to keep it in place on a hangar and in the body. Most women removed this before wearing so is very rare to see one still with this in place. You can see it in the runway shots too. The dress is meant to be worn short and the jersey stretches so accommodate the hips so that it stays in place. The rest of the dress just blouses over loose and easy. I have shown it on the dress form the way it is meant to be worn and like you see on Frankie in the runway shots and also extended it to its full length so that you can see the full pattern on the dress. The top is loose and easy and is meant to be worn low down the back. It almost creates a ruffled effect. The front sits as low as you wish it to and you can also wear the dress slouched off of one or both shoulders. The sleeves have wide openings on either side and again the more conservative version was more covered with a more narrow opening. This is an incredible piece of the Tom Ford history with the brand and is one of the most recognizable pieces from his tenure with the label. It's an incredible piece of fashion history given that it is true to the runway version. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition. 

Unlined and slips on the wear. Tagged a size Large but the jersey has stretch and should accommodate a variety of sizes. It is very hard to measure with the stretch factor so I have given the comfortable range laying flat. 

Bust: approx 19-23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: approx 17-21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: approx 16-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: approx 37" from top of shoulder to hem but can be pulled up as short as you want

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG

Item# DD3707

Reference Photos: Spring 2003 Gucci Runway Collection, Look 3. Model: Frankie Rayder.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I have dated this gorgeous Bill Blass dress by the shot of Lauren Hutton who was photographed in a shorter version of this dress for Vogue in 1972. This longer version has the same open back feature as that one has and it also has a beautiful organza skirt that snaps into place over the silk taffeta dress underneath. If you loved the look of the Vogue shot you could even add your own flower to the base of the back and recreate it. 

By 1972 Blass was only two years into running his own company after buying Maurice Rentner Ltd in 1970 and relaunching the label under his own name. Even then you could see just how strong a designer he was. The dress is  gorgeous and is made from combining a black silk taffeta base with a silk organza skirt that attaches over the inner dress. The fabric choices keeps the dress light in weight but it still helps to hold the shape and volume that you see and gives the dress some structure and shape. The front bodice has a more formal feel to it with a high neckline that is slightly scooped across the front and set wide. The sleeves are attached with a slight bit of volume at the tops of each shoulder and then narrow down to a ruffle finish at each cuff. Set along the neckline is a high ruffle that adds beautiful detailing. The ruffle then curves back and over each shoulder and extends down your back to completely frame the open cut out that leaves your back bare. I love this unexpected bare skin moment that is in stark contrast to the coverage at the front. The skirt deserves it own moment. The inner skirt is a part of the main dress and it is made out of the same silk taffeta as the bodice. It is cut longer at the back and then curves up at the front so that when you walk you see a bit of leg. The entire hem is finish with a wider band of ruffles that picks up on the ruffles at the neck and around the open back. Then there is a second skirt that snaps into place around the waist line. This layer is made out of a black silk organza and adds a beautiful light fullness to the skirts. It floats over the inner silk taffeta skirt of the dress with more ruffled edges that curve around and follow the hem. The photos on the dress form do not come close to doing it justice. This is a dress that needs an actual body in it and then it really comes to life. When you walk the organza layer catches the air and creates this stunning billowing effect and when you turn to leave you have that flash of bare skin. It is utterly amazing. Excellent condition

The bodice is lined in a layer of silk taffeta. The dress closes with a low set zipper at the back. There are zippers at each cuff. The organza skirt layer snaps into place around the waist. Hand finished throughout.

Sleeves: 25" including the 3" ruffle
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15.5" from top of shoulder to waist
Skirt in the dress: 43" from the waist to the back hem and 30" at the front
Detachable skirt: 46" from the waist to the back hem and 43.5" at the front 

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD2990

Reference Photo: Lauren Hutton in Bill Blass, by Irving Penn. Vogue US, January 1972.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is a stunning Valentino that is from the time period of Valentino when it was being co-designed by both Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli. They had stepped into Mr Valentino's shoes and were breathing new life into the brand. I love that they still adhered to the label's heritage in keeping with using the classic Valentino red colour.

The dress is made from a light stretch silk crepe chiffon in the signature shade of red that Valentino is so well known for. The fabric choice lets the dress light in weight while still holding that beautiful shape that you see. The bodice is strapless and is kept very simple and elegant. It is cut straight across the edge at the top and then the silk has been gathered across and over the bodice. The outer layer of silk is set so that it wraps over one side of those gathers and and then is caught up in a curve below the bodice. It follows along the waist line in a soft curve and is caught up on the opposite hip. There it drapes down the skirt in a pretty soft panel that creates a slight ruffled effect down the full side of the dress. The back is cut to fall in a smooth sheath so you get the feeling of length. It is the perfect mix of simplicity and elegance. The skirt falls to the floor in a graceful column and gradually widens out just a touch as it nears the hem. The lightness of the silk combined with the open panel on the one side allows the fabric of the skirt to move with the slightest bit of movement on your part and it is so pretty when you walk. Inside it is beautifully constructed. There is a built in full interior corset to hold you in place. It is lightly wired and boned and that is combined with a stretch lingerie netting for comfort. It is a beautiful and romantic dress. It is a very wearable size and looks to have been worn very little it at all. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a red stretch silk and closes with a back zipper that is covered with a red silk satin ribbon. The interior cupped and boned corset closes with its own separate zipper. The interior bodice has some stretch so I have measured the comfortable range laying flat - you could probably get a little more out of it if needed. No size tag bit I would guess that this is a modern Valentino 44 or 46

Interior bust: 20-22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Interior waist: 15-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 22-23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 55" from top of the bodice to the front hem, 56" to the back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: LRG-XL

Item# DD3696

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Emilio Pucci is one of my favorite designers and every single dress is a work of art. His colors and prints are mixed with a masterful hand and when you get a good piece of Pucci, it is a piece that you can wear for a lifetime. This one is gorgeous. The dress is made out of one of his signature lightweight silk jerseys, a fabric that he preferred because of the way it moved and took colour. It is screened with one of his custom prints that he has laid out onto the fabric to highlight the cut and line of the dress. The sleeves are long and slim and the bodice is cut to skim over the bust with a V neckline. This flows past the hips to the floor in a fairly straight column of fabric.The colour is a bright salmon pink and over that is a floral and vine print in a white that is edged in black. The flowers and vines trail over the entire dress in the prettiest of ways. His signature band of a contrasting print comes into play to highlight the edges and cut of the dress. It defines the neckline, circles the cuff and runs around the hem. I love the wide band of print that wraps around the top of the hips to separate the bodice from the skirt without having to have an actual seam there. This gives it visual definition but still keeps the easy to wear cut. Another printed band runs up the upper back of the dress. You will note that there is also a band along one side of the skirt. This is an incredible detail as that entire side snaps open or closed. If left open it is open all the way to where the print circles the top of the hips so that when you walk it will show your full leg. If that's too much for you, you just snap it to close as far down as you like. The entire dress weighs ounces and it looks to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition.

Unlined and closes with a back hidden, painted metal zipper. The fabric is a silk jersey and does have some stretch. Note that the color is more intense in person - better then how it photoed. Hand finished

Sleeves: approx 23"
Shoulders: are slightly dropped and are approx 17"
Bust: 17-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20-22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 60" from neck to hem
Side Slit: can be fully closed or opened to be 33" from hem up

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3111

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This gorgeous dress is by Alfred Bosand who was one of the great American designers but whose work is not as well known as some of the other more prominent American designers. His clothes where made to demi and couture levels with lots of hand finishes and detailing to them. Bosand started his career after World War II by attending the Fashion Academy in New York City. He then worked with several designers before launching his own label. By the time he retired in 1986 he was one of New York's last privately owned couture designers with his own label. His work is of very high quality. I just recently sold the twin of this dress in a cream and it is lovely to have another one land in the shop so soon. 

Bosand dresses always have a sense of romance to them and this dress with its matching caplet is no exception. Both pieces are constructed from a lightweight silk net that has little dots woven through it. The top netted layer sits over an inner lining that is finished in a pale peach colour. This softens the brown a touch as the peach colour peaks through the netted layers and adds to the illusion that you are perhaps bare underneath. The entire top of the bodice is covered in iridescent sequins that have all been hand applied. They are set be spaced more densely together towards the empire seam and then scatter up to the neckline. The dress is suspended from tiny double straps that curve over each shoulder. The bodice is kept simple with a low scoop at both the back and the front and a high seam under the bust. From under the empire waist seam the skirt cascades to the floor and widens out as it nears the hem. There are yards and yards of fabric in the skirt and it is made up of three layers, the top net layer that floats over an inner silk chiffon layer and then under those two layers is the lining. The dress comes with its original matching caped scarf piece. This has a built in collar that hooks to close and then the collar has the same sequin detailing done to it. The caplet is cut to end just at the empire waist seam at the front and then hangs with long panels that trail over each arm and around the back all the way to the hem. It is incredible and when you move it catches the air and moves beautifully. Excellent condition. 

The skirt is fully lined in an peach silk crepe with an additional layer of a brown silk chiffon between the skirt layers. The bodice is lined in a nude silk. The capelet is unlined and made from a single layer of the netting. The dress closes with a back painted metal zipper and the cape closes with two hook & eye at the collar. Hand finished throughout and hand applied sequins on the dress and collar of the capelet.

Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Empire waist at seam: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 12" from top of shoulder straps to seam under the bust
Skirt: 48" from seam under the bust to hem
Cape: neck is 14" around. It falls 10" at its shortest length at the front and 60"to the longest length

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SMl-MED

Item# DD3683

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I love when I find these earlier examples of Oscar de la Renta's work. He would heave been more personally involved in them and they really showcase the designer he was to become. The dress beautifully combines several textures that work together wonderfully. It really showcases the the genius of his work and attention to detail. It has a couple of quirks to it so please make sure to read the full condition report below but it is still beautifully wearable.

The dress has a beautiful elegance to it despite all of its glitz and is as striking a dress as it could be. This sense of refinement is a constant in Oscar's work and I particularly love the earlier examples of his work. You can see how many of the elements he used so early in his career carried forward throughout his entire body of work. The dress is made from a sheer black silk chiffon that is lined in a black silk organza. This gives the base a bit of a transparent feel to it while still being completely covered underneath. Onto the top layer is an extensive pattern done in looping bands of sequins that have been sewn onto the dress in stacked rows. Mixed in with the gold sequins are the occasional green and red sequins. These catch the light differently and give the dress even more of a metallic feel. Worked into the sequins are these huge metallic paillettes that are cut into giant swirls. These are placed randomly over the dress and are done in green, gold and blue. Crystals are then hand placed and sewn on top of those. Every inch of the dress is covered. Each sleeve is left unlined for a touch of transparency and each is ringed with a deep brown sable mink cuff. If you are opposed to wearing fur it would be a simple task to un-tack them from the sleeves and wear it without the cuffs or switch them for a faux or feather finish. The neckline is cut wide across and scooped. The bodice is cut to skim over the bust and then the waist is seamed in a wide and generous cut. Below that the skirt falls to the floor, widening out as it nears the hem and it is finished with another band of the same fur as the cuffs. All the work is done by hand and each sequin meticulously placed. It is a beautiful example of his work during this time period. It feels even more gold in person. Great condition with some notes below

Fully lined in a black silk through the bodice and a black silk organza through the skirt. The sleeves are left unlined. It closes at the back with a hand set, painted metal zipper. Hand finished throughout. There is the occasional sequin loss here and there and some of the crystals on the large palettes are missing. Some palettes have a bit of a grubby feel to them and show a slight patina. The sides of the dress have been tacked on the outside to bring them in at some point so there is a little bulk of fabric on the sides. I opened one a bit and it looks like a seam underneath was opened and then the dress tacked on the exterior. You could open it to get more room if needed but there may be some additional work to do by a seamstress on the very inside seam if you did. I chose to leave it as found. It looks like the sleeves were also opened at some point as the fur does not meet under the arm. That too could be taken back in if you wished. I took photos the the side, under the cuff and of one of the paillettes. Please see the shots after the label shot. 

Shoulders: 16"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 42" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD3684

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I have a small collection of historically important, key designer labelled vintage furs and fur trimmed pieces stored away in my archives that I will be slowly posting on the site over the next couple of years until I have none left. I will no longer be buying furs for the shop moving forward and have not purchased anything for several years now. I feel like times have changed and while there still is a place for vintage furs for some, including collectors and historians, many modern girls are choosing other options. Many of the pieces in my collection are representative of the designer during a set time period in history that was different then our modern outlook. I have decided that the best course to handle this controversial issue is to let the pieces I have go rather then sit in a cold storage unit. Fur coats are final sale.

Loris Azzaro launched his label in 1967 and quickly defined his trademark looks with colour, ornate beading, sequins, daring cut-outs and avant garde ways of defining the body. Some of the most beautiful women in the world wore his clothing including Marisa Berenson, Raquel Welch, Jane Birkin, Sophia Loren, Brigitte Bardot and Tina Turner. It was a label that defined sexiness and had a certain French flare that women world-wide loved. By the eighties he was experimenting with volume and proportions and new fabrics that at the time were all cutting edge. This is a killer example of his work during this period and I also have a similar version on the shop in a red if the black one is not bold enough for you. 

This dress is a statement piece that will turn every head when you walk into a room.  It is so bold and dramatic. The bodice is hand draped into soft rounded gathers. It is constructed to follow the curves of the body from the top of the neckline to below the hips. For the body of the dress he has used a black stretch jersey that has a touch of a sheen finish to it. Inside is his signature black strapless underwire bralet that is sewn into the dress for support. The bodice is shaped into a low sweetheart curve and the gathers run horizontally down the body. Vertical hand done seams were then added all the way around to give the gathers a slight scooped feel. This ensures that they don't add bulk tp you but are simply there to emphasize your curves underneath. The low set skirt is made out of a metallic black textured silk that is set over layers of built in under skirting. The fabric of the lower skirt is placed to give the effect that it is wrapped and fanned around you. On each outer side the panels of the skirt lift up and away from the dress. These suggest flames in their shape and the colour. The same fabric and flame-like effect is then used to create a fan of fabric on one side of the bodice and this flares out dramatically up and over the front portion of the shoulder. It is very dramatic and OTT. In person the fabric has a richer and more textured feeling then how it photoed. Excellent condition.

Fully lined in a black silk with a built in bra though the bodice that hooks to close separately. It closes at the back with a painted metal and nylon zipper. The interior bodice is boned. Layers of tulle and silk underskirts under the low set skirt. The flame/fan detailing on the bodice has wire inside to hold it up. It would be easy to add additional wire or stiffening inside if you wanted it to really hold even taller then it does now. Hand finished throughout

Bust: to 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam and the inner waist stay hooks slightly smaller then that
Hips: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 52" from top of bodice to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3680

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Bill Blass worked for the Maurice Retner label for 10 years as the chief designer. In 1968 the Bill Blass Inc label became a subsidiary of the Retner label . Then in 1970 he fully bought out his partners at the Maurice Retner label and re-launched it under his own name as Bill Blass Ltd. 1970 was the same year that he won his third Coty American Fashion Critics' Award and with it, his lifetime membership in the Coty Hall of Fame. By 1980 the company was doing 20 million dollars in revenue. He was arguably one of the most famous of all the American designers. By the eighties his work was even more ornate and luxurious than what he had done in the past. Prices for dresses could be as high as $5000 (which would be about $15,000 today). He was once asked why his clothes were so expensive and he replied, 'I'm an avid believer that we have to have clothes made in this country. Therefore we pay more money. ... The cost of labor and fabrication is what makes the clothing expensive.'

I have had versions of this dress in the shop in the past and I love it every time one comes in. It is bold and dramatic and it still feels perfectly on point with so many designers focusing on the eighties right now. Few designers would be able to make this mix of fabrics work. The neck is high and the sleeves are long. There is an inner silk chiffon bodice and then over that is an attached netted lace top. This is then covered in glossy black sequins. The winning through the lace and sequins are little rosettes that are made from a white ribbon that has been woven through the netting and stitched into place in little twirls. Blass used dots in his work quite often and the ribbon work that has been done is a bit of a play on his signature dot pattern. The shoulders are padded and strong and the edge of the bodice is shaped into a curving scalloped pattern. I love how it sits away from the body because it emphasizes the waist more. Quite a clever trick. The waist is accented by a wide black silk satin ribbon that is attached to the inner dress. Under that the skirt falls with a nice bit of fullness to it. Inside it has an inner organza lining that helps to hold the shape but most of the volume comes form the pleating at the waist and the horizontal banding that helps to give the skirt structure. It curves out full over the hips and has a bit of a bell shape. Alternating stripes of black and white silk organza run all the way to the hem and each black stripe has a little band of lace edging it on both the top and bottom of the stripe. Excellent condition with a small note to review below.

The outer bodice is lined in a black silk and that sits over a black silk chiffon inner bodice. The skirt is lined with a white white silk organza. The dress closes at the back with a hand set zipper and the top buttons to close over that. Padded shoulders. I see the the slightest of darkening to some of the ribbon on the top. Too faint to capture in a photo but mentioned for accuracy. There is a minor mark on the skirt and a tiny area of fading near the hem. Please see the photos after the shot of the label

Sleeves: 22"
Shoulders: 15.5"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 16" from top of shoulder to bottom seam of band at the waist
Skirt: 36" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3387

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This little Yves Saint Laurent dress has such a joyful feel to it. I am always excited to find examples of Yves' work from this time period and this one is extra special because it is the twin of the dress that was shown on the 1983 runway. We also found a editorial shot from that season with the same dress in a solid colour that was shot for L'Officiel magazine. I love the solid colour version as well but the printed one just has so much colour and joy to it I can't help but love it a little more. 

This is a gorgeous little day dress that you could easily style to work into the evening, especially during the warmer months. The colours are amazing and absolutely pop off of the cotton fabric that he chose for this dress. Cotton takes colour extremely well and it is the perfect choice to get these crisp vibrant tones. It also holds the shape well so that the dress has volume where Yves wanted it. Yves Saint Laurent was a master at choosing the fabrics that were the perfect compliment to the prints that he used. This dress is no exception to that rule with its riot of bright flowers covering its surface. The cut is pure Yves and a wonderful example of the work he was doing during this time period. The sleeves end just below the elbow and are cut with a full balloon sleeve pouf above their wide and easy elastic cuffs. The bodice is fitted with a V neckline at the front. The upper portion of the bodice is done in the same floral fabric as the sleeves and skirt but he then inset a blue fabric to define the waist and visually cinch it in. He then plays with proportion by adding a blue cotton peplum that runs all the way around the hips and flares outwards. Below that the skirt flares out with a pretty swing feel. The combination of the prints and the cut is genius. Excellent condition with a minor note below

Unlined and zips to close at the side. It is tagged a vintage YSL 36. It appears to have been worn very little if at all but there is some fading to the tops of the curves on the peplum. You notice it more when it is off the body and laying flat but not when on. Please see the photo after the label shot. 

Sleeves: 19"
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from neck to waist
Skirt: 25" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3653

Reference Photo: (1) S/S 1983 Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche Runway.  /  (2) Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, L'Officiel, 1983.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Geoffrey Beene was one of the great American fashion designers and he was recognized for both his artistic and technical skills. He launched his label in 1963 and a piece from his very first collection landed the cover of Vogue. A Coty award followed a year later and in 1984 the Council of Fashion Designers created the annual Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement award in honor of Beene's fashion legacy. This dress is from the Fall 1984 collection and we found an amazing editorial photo of it in the September issue of Vogue that year. It is one of my favourite things in the shop and it is even better in person. 

I am completely in love with this dress. It is so representative of his work and is just a gorgeous little dress in its own right. The silk that he chose for the dress is a fine silk taffeta that holds the volume and shape that he wanted while still keeping the dress light and airy feeling once on the body. The colour are a blend of a silver toned grey with a large black floral print over it. The sleeves are puffed and they have lots of volume built into them. The neckline is high and the bodice is cut to to be more fitted. Into the silver silk taffeta below the neckline there is an inset made out of a semi-transparent silk that has a metallic lame finish. This angles up into a peak at the front and then wraps around the sides. It goes from the top of the peak in height right down to the waist seam. Set along the angle of the front peak is a long panel of the same metallic silk chiffon. These extend out into extra extra long ties. You cross them over each other and then you can wrap them around your body. For the shots here I have tied them at the back but they are long enough that you could wrap them around you and tie at the front as well. Depending on how you tie them you will get a glimpse of skin through the inner front panel. You can style the ties to take advantage of that and show more of the transparent panel or tie them so that it completely covers it for a fully opaque feel. This play on transparent cut-outs is a staple of Beene's work as he progressed into the nineties and I love seeing it in this earlier piece. Below the waist the skirt falls to the floor in a cascade of silver and black. There are many yards of silk that have been used to construct the skirt so when you move you can really get a sense of its fullness. You could probably add an underskirt if you wanted it to be even fuller. Underneath the top layer of the skirt is built in silk chiffon underskirt that is edged  in a wide panel of black lace. The lace is finished with a curving scalloped edge and when you move or sit you get just a peek of it from underneath. Square polished buttons down the back are the perfect finishing touch. It is gorgeous. Appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition.

The skirt is fully lined in a black silk chiffon that is edged with a wide panel of scalloped black lace at the hem. The bodice is also lined in a black silk chiffon. It close with a series of buttons down the back and a low back zipper at the waist. The inner waist hooks to close. Each sleeve has elastic in its cuff and they are cut wide and easy. The ties are attached at the front as described above. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little.

Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: 18" flat across the back from side seam to side seam
Seam at low waist: 13.5" flat across the back from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 16" from shoulder to low waist seam
Skirt: 40" from waist seam to bottom hem

Modern Sizing equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD1904

Reference Photo: Vogue, September 1984.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The Balmain transformation from what it was originally to what it is today began when they hired Christophe Decarnin. He was the designer that gave it its edgy feel that has continued to the present day under Olivier Rousteing, the label's current Creative Director. When the Fall 2008 collection showed Vogue's Nicole Phelps said in part: 'And as promised, Spring's haute hippie feathers, fringe, and tie-dye were replaced by an all-Billy Idol soundtrack and enough leopard-print chain mail, python-pattern denim, and crystal-embroidered lightning bolts to make you wonder if there was anything at all left on the shelves at Trash and Vaudeville. To be fair, Decarnin's creations are much finer than the East Village emporium's, but they appeal to a similar kind of chick, one with a killer body and an active nightlife.' The twin of this dress closed the show and it is perhaps one of the most memorable and significant pieces that Decarnin designed for the label. It was produced in very limited quantities and instantly sold out world wide despite a very hefty retail price. 

The dress is incredible and the skirts are all still their original lengths. I note that as I have only ever seen one other of these for sale and it had its skirts shortened at some point. The length is integral to the design in many ways. The skirt panels are incredibly long and light in weight so that when you move they float and billow around you as you can see in the runway footage. Above the skirts it is extremely fitted long curving bodice that is constructed to highlight your every curve. On the interior of the bodice there is a full boned corset with built in cups. The corset is cut to run from the bust to the top of the hips so that you are molded and shaped into place. On the outside the silk is hand draped and placed into position to form soft gathers that run around you. A huge zig zag bolt runs down the front. It is densely covered in crystals and it separates the prints on either side of you. The silk on one side is zebra and the silk used for this is a light scarf weight silk. The other side is finished in a black and white leopard print. On that side the silk is more of a silk faille and slightly heavier in weight then the zebra printed silk is. This change in weights of the silk is genius because it means that the way the silk moves in the skirts changes and you get more movement. The crystal covered panel that divides the two printed sides curves over just one shoulder and then runs down the front in the dramatic zig zag that you see. At the back it extends just past the shoulder and curves to the side. To close the dress Decarnin  has used one of the signature chunky Balmain zippers to divide the two prints. The zipper is set on a curve that follows the curve of your body and it becomes an incredible design detail in itself. The dress is fitted to the top of the hips and then the skirts flare out into long trains of fabric. The predominant part of the skirt is made from the leopard print and this is set on a curve at the hem that extends out to the side and to the back. There is a smaller panel at the front that is made out of the zebra print silk that also extends out and back. Where the two fabrics meet at the front side, they are only attached at the to and not together. This means that an opening is created that goes right up to the top of the thigh. When you move your entire legs shows. We have included the runway footage for reference so that you can see just how incredible it is when it is on and you walk. Excellent condition with a minor note below.

The inner bodice has a fully built in boned corset made from a nude colored lingerie stretch corseting nylon fabric that has built in cups and is finished by hand. The fabric is hand draped over this and the crystals and lightening bolt have been attached by hand. It closes with a curved set zipper that allows the form fitting construction of the dress. Tagged a 40. There are a couple of small repairs along the hem of the trained skirts. Some tiny pulls in the silk of the bodice. Please see the photos after the label shot. Hand finished throughout. The inner foundation garment does have some stretch. You might be able to squeeze out a bit more room when on a real body.

Bust: 15-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 11.5-12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 16.5-17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 33" from top of shoulder to bottom of inner foundation garment
Skirt: 28.5" from bottom of inner foundation garment to shortest hem, 53" to the longest hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Item# DD3115

Reference Photos: F/W 2008 Balmain Runway, Final Look.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This would have originally been a lingerie piece and meant to be worn under another dress. But in our modern world you could easily wear this out as a super sexy dress. What makes it possible for the dress to be worn outside of your house is the lining that they used. It is a lingerie weight opaque nude stretch jersey that sits under the top layer of black machine lace. There are built in cups that have under-wiring and the front laces up from the waist to the curving centre of the bodice. On each side of the top there is a panel of stretch netting that has a touch of transparency to it. The skirt falls in a simple pencil like shape with just a touch of volume created by the way it is set into the top part. It is super easy to wear and finding vintage lingerie that you could potentially wear as a dress is hard to do so it is a great find. Overall great condition with a couple of small notes below.  

Fully lined in nude stretch jersey and the cups have under wiring as described above. It closes with a side zipper. I see a couple of small repairs on the netting that runs on either side of the bust and a small repair in the lace at the front that you see more from the interior then the exterior. A small repair to the interior lining (not photoed). Please see the last three photos. There is a little give on the waist and bust measurements due to the lace front 

Bust: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 43" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# D627

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Bill Gibb was one of the most influential designers in 1970s Britain and his clothes were sought out and worn by the rich and famous. His work has a high fantasy element and he was crowned Designer of the Year in 1970. Much of his work verged on couture and he was unrelenting in striving for perfection. A dress from this same 1976 collection was photoed on Tina Chow by David Bailey for Vogue. I have included those reference photos here and you can clearly see the same ribbon detailing and pleating technique used on both pieces. His pieces were never produced in large quantities and this one is exceptional. I would not be surprised to find out that it was a one off and a custom piece. It is wonderful to have such a gorgeous example of his work in the shop.

This is an amazing example of his work. It is made up of two pieces. Inside there is a very long full length skirt. Over that sits that fantastic evening coat piece that has a built in silk part on the top and then flows to the ground in a cloud of netting. The inner skirt is beautiful. It is made out of a fine silk chiffon with a soft pink silk lining. The top layer of silk is knife pleated so that it has a lot of movement. It is detailed around the hem with a pretty ribbon finish made up of three stripes of silk satin ribbon in a pale blue, a pink and a mint green. This sits under the evening jacket that has a built in top that is made out of silk. The same striping detailed that the skirt has is used to edge the inner portion of the top. So you see the stripes on the skirt and the top through the netting of the jacket and it adds depth. The inner top is made from the same silk and chiffon combination as the skirt and treated with that same knife pleating technique. Attached and layered over that is the netted part. It is here that the high couture fantasy aspect of the piece goes into full play. The neckline is cut wide across so it almost sits off the shoulder. The fabric on this outermost layer is a fine ivory netting that has a stunning design of flowers and vines hand embroidered over it that covers it from shoulder to hem. I love how the pattern gets denser as it nears the hem. Each bit of that design is hand embroidered with a multi-colored pastel thread that has a metallic silver running through it. It is like wearing a work of art. The combination of the embroidery work and the metallic of the silver is incredibly beautiful and delicate in feel. All of the edges are finished with silver cording and there is a long tie of the same silver cording at the neck. The sleeves are even more incredible. They are cut extra long and each has an inner pleated base made out of a pale pink silk chiffon that is knife pleated like the skirt and inner top. Over this is a slightly more ivory toned silk netting that poufs out from the shoulder and is caught up just below the elbow. It then flares back out, widening as it reached the end of the sleeve. Each sleeve is densely hand embroidered with that same metallic thread as the body of the jacket. Long silver cords hang down from the seam at the elbow. No matter how much you might love the photos this one is even better in person. The workmanship in it has to be seen in person. It would even make a beautiful choice for a bride who is looking for an alternative to the traditional wedding dress or as a part of a wedding event. Excellent condition

Both piece are fully lined in a pale pink silk. The skirt closes with a metal and nylon zipper. The top slips on to wear with snaps and hook and eye at the very top of the inner most silk part. The colours in person are softer and bit more pink feeling in person. There is some light fading to one side of the skirt near the closures but its very minor. 

Skirt
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips at inner lining: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 44" from waist seam to hem

Top/Overlay
Sleeves: approx 31"
Shoulder opening: approx 17"
Bust: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist- hips: open
Length: 25" from top of shoulder to hem of inner top, 58" from shoulder to the full length hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3081

Reference Photos: (1-2) Tina Chow in an ensemble by Bill Gibb. Photographed by David Bailey for British Vogue, April 1976.  /  (3-4) Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Zandra Rhodes is one of my favorite designers and it is always a treat to have one of her pieces for you. The print on this one is done in a metallic silver paint and I love the subtle rhinestone detailing on it. It is a very pretty piece and the colour absolutely pops in person. 

This is a very wearable dress that can be worn for day or evening and has a lot of options on how you can choose to wear it. The versatility comes from it still having its original wrapped fabric belt and a matching scarf. This gives you the ability to add shape or wear it loose and easy. You can switch out the belt for the scarf for a softer look or you can use the scarf as a shawl or as a head wrap. You could even tie it into a turban to get a very seventies feel. The fabric is her signature hand painted silk chiffon and is the prettiest blue bright clear ever with a print that combines a navy matte navy and a metallic silver paint. This top layer lies over a blue silk interior that feels wonderful when on the body. The dress has a loose and easy cut through the body to create a floating feel around you. This gives the dress a lot of movement. It is cut to skim over the bodice and then flows to an open and easy waist and then the skirt flares out. Without the belt it has an almost caftan feel to it and with the belt you can cinch it in to add as much shape as you want. The bodice has just a touch of detailing to highlight the print with hand applied sequin paillettes and beads at the front and a rhinestone trim around the edges. The sleeves are left unlined and are light and airy feeling with a ruffled effect finished edges. It comes with a matching extra long sash and a fabric belt. It is lovely. Excellent condition

The dress is fully lined in a blue silk through the body and a nude inner lining in the sleeves. It closes with a back zipper. The bead and sequin work detailing are hand applied. Comes with a long wide scarf and and a matching belt that is shaped like a cummerbund with light stiffening in the middle part of it. This dress may have been a custom order as it came from the same lady who custom ordered several of Zandra's pieces. It looks to have been worn very little if at all. I see two missing beads at the front and some of the tiny black beads above the rhinestone at the neck are missing. Very minor

Inset shoulders: 12"
Bust: 17" flat across the back from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across the back from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across the back from side seam to side seam
Length: 55" from shoulder to hem
Sash: 5.5" at widest point x 80" long end to end
Scarf: 25" at widest point x 106" long end to end

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3651

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

In 1951, 27 year old James Galanos launched his first label called Galanos Originals. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. That said, his ready-to-wear was made to almost true couture standards and were made with a level of craftsmanship that was on par with the French couturiers. Galanos was a master cutter and draper and he used many couture techniques in the construction of his dresses and gowns. Grace Kelly was an early fan. His work is held in all of the major museums around the world and he is one of my personal favourite designers. 

This particular dress has the added provenance that its twin was worn by Nancy Reagan on two separate occasions. The first time was at a party in London where she was photoed with Douglas Fairbanks Jr and Princess Grace of Monaco. She then wore it again to the premiere of Annie in 1982. It was obviously a favourite and for good reason. The dress is absolutely gorgeous. It has a long slim cut with just a suggestion of shape through the waist. As it nears the hem it widens out just a touch and there is a high slit on the side that the shoulder is bare on. This allows you to walk and also lets a flash of leg show when you move or sit. It is lined with a very fine, high end red silk that feels like heaven over your skin. The top is angled up and over the shoulder. It is cut wide at the top of the shoulder and this curves over you and then dips down to follow the same angle at the back. The edge of the neckline and the arm are both finished in a small ruffle of the same silk faille that the rest of the dress is made out of. For detail he has added a gorgeous design that follows the angle of the angled front and back. The design is done to suggest leaves and grapes perhaps. It was created by utilizing a trapunto quilting effect where two layers of fabric are used, the underside of which is slit and padded, to produce a raised pouf effect on the top layer. It is a tedious method that would have added several hours to the dress to do this by hand. The dress is stunning on and the reference photos of Nancy included here give you an idea of how much it transforms once on an actual body. Excellent condition 

Fully lined in a red silk and closes with a zipper at the side. Ribbon edge inter seams. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. The colour in person is a little darker then how it photoed. In person it is between the colour of the shots here and the pics of Nancy in the reference photos 

Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 56.5" from top of shoulder to hem with approx 2" turned under
Slit: 26.5 from hem up

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3649

Reference Photos: (1) Nancy Reagan with Douglas Fairbanks Jr and Princess Grace of Monaco at a party in London, 1981.  /  (2-4) Nancy Reagan at the premiere of 'Annie' at Radio City Music Hall in 1982.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Nettie Rosenstein was based out of New York City. She started a small home based dressmaking business in 1913 after getting married to Saul Rosenstein, who manufactured and made women's underwear. By 1919 her pieces were in such high demand that I. Magnin asked her to start selling to them. By 1921 her business had a workforce of 50 and she was on her way. In the early days her work was sold only under the department store labels and it was only word of mouth that the work was actually hers. By 1937 Life Magazine called her one of the most important American Designers. By 1940 she was in 92 shops across America and her dress cost up to $500 (just over $9000 in modern dollars). Her work was widely copied and she was particularly known for her 'little black dresses'. She designed until 1961. 

This is an incredible dress and it is gorgeous. It is made out of a black silk taffeta that holds the shape of the dress wonderfully. The skirt is very full and it is very flattering on the body. The volume that you see in the photos has been created by the way that the skirt is cut and set into the waist with beautiful wide pleats of fabric. There are tulle layers under the skirt but I did not add any extra crinolines. You could add more if you wanted an even fuller look. The bodice is fitted and the waist nips in. At the waist there is a large wide silk taffeta belt that cinches you in even more. Just the way the silk slides through the buckle is a detail in itself. The neckline is very unusual. The black part of it is draped across the neckline to sit off of the shoulder and leave your collarbones bare. This is then lined with a pretty sky blue silk taffeta. Inside the upper part of the dress, that straps that curve over each shoulder are done in that same sky blue silk. They are set so that they sit wide on the shoulders. The two fabric create a little gap between themselves. The closer you are to the person wearing it the more you see the blue.  It is just wonderful. I love when silk taffeta is used for these cocktail dresses from this era. It adds the weight needed to hold the shape and fullness but keeps them light and easy to wear. The dress is very pretty and romantic. Excellent condition with one tiny note below. 

Unlined and closes with a back painted metal zipper. There are two layers of tulle inside the skirt. The belt closes with a slip buckle. Hand finished interior seam as per the detail shot I have included here. There are tiny pin marks on one shoulder where the owner must have worn a pin. Please see the photo after the label shot. It otherwise looks to have been worn very little. 

Bust: to 17.5 " flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 29" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3642

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is a gorgeous twenties flapper coat that is not 100% perfect but too dreamy to not give it a second life. It is made out of a beautiful caramel wool that is soft and light. This is accented with light taupe collar this is finished in what looks like a faux broadtail. The coat has a beautiful drape and ease. It falls to just past the knees and has a loose and easy cut so can be thrown on over just about anything. The upper portion of the coat has soft rounded shoulders and these curve gracefully into the sleeves. Each sleeve is quite special with a huge turned up cuff that ends in two angled points. More detail is added to the cuffs with four lovely curving scalloped designs that run up the length of each cuff. These same scalloped edges are used along the seams of the front and at the back. The collar is equally special with a wide soft cut that sits up a bit from the shoulders and at the back it angles down into a point. The button to close it at the front is a large hand carved bakelite button. I love the folds of fabric under the button that fall to look like a ribbon to the hem. At some point someone has removed the entire interior lining and the seams have bits of that and the ribbon that secured it here and there. I see a small repair that is hidden when you close the coat. It is so lovely that I feel that these things that you don't see when it is one are entirely forgivable. Excellent condition other then the items noted. Please read the full description below

The lining has been removed and you can see parts of it here and there at the edges. It closes with the button at the front. I see a repair to the wool on the front under where it crosses over. This is hidden when the coat is closed. There is a residue under on arm at the seam that shows through and a repair on the loop that closes the coat. Please see the last three photos. Sold as found. The loose and open cut will fit a range of sizes. For its age it is still sound and wearable.

Sleeves: 23" from the slightly drop shoulder
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 20" flat across from inner side seam to side seam
Waist: 19" flat across from inner side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from inner side seam to side seam
Length: 40" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Item# C566

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Note that antique and twenties pieces are final sale. They will be packed exceedingly well and we only sell pieces that will stand up to the stress of shipping, however, having pieces potentially shipped multiple times through multiple customs and countries is too hard on garments that are historically important and deserve to be treated with love and care. Please purchase accordingly.

This is an exceptional twenties flapper coat that is made of a beautiful and fine deep brown wool and is accented with a thick and curly sheepskin at the collar, cuffs and the hem. I love that is almost is a play on gender as it has a touch of the feel of what men were wearing in this time period but at the same time still feels decidedly female. It falls to just past the knees and has a loose and easy cut so can be thrown on over just about anything. The upper portion of the coat has soft rounded shoulders and these curve gracefully into the sleeves. Each sleeve is spectacular with long and extensive sheepskin cuffs. The cuffs circle the lower portion of the sleeve and then trail up and around the back of the elbow. The collar is equally as special and is exaggerated in size. It extends well out past the shoulders  and curves around the back. It then dips down to the waist with a touch of a men's evening coat feel to it. Another panel of sheepskin was added all around the hem in a very wide panel. I love how the top of the bottom panel is finished with a soft curving scalloped edge. Just above that are topstitched pin tuck seams that follow the scalloping of the sheepskin. These are done in stacked row and are set all the way around the lower part of the coat. More top stitched seams are done under the back collar even though most are hidden. The inside of the coat has been lined with a matching silk satin with a striped texture to it much like men's suiting. It closes low and to one side with a huge carved bakelite button. I love the wide and easy swing cut through the body. Excellent condition with notes below

Fully lined in a matching brown silk. It closes with the button at the front and silk ribbons inside that snap around a loop. One tiny hidden pocket along the inner seam of the opening. The loose and open cut should fit a range of sizes. There is some wear and loss of silk under the interior of each arm and around the collar. For its age I still rate this as excellent. 

Sleeves: 23" from the slightly drop shoulder
Shoulders: 15"
Bust-hips: 19" flat across from inner side seam to side seam
Length: 39" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-Med

Item# C567

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I have a small collection of historically important, key designer labelled vintage furs and fur trimmed pieces stored away in my archives that I will be slowly posting on the site over the next couple of years until I have none left. I will no longer be buying furs for the shop moving forward and have not purchased anything for several years now. I feel like times have changed and while there still is a place for vintage furs for some, including collectors and historians, many modern girls are choosing other options. Many of the pieces in my collection are representative of the designer during a set time period in history that was different then our modern outlook. I have decided that the best course to handle this controversial issue is to let the pieces I have go rather then sit in a cold storage unit. Fur coats are final sale.

Bill Gibb was one of the most influential designers in 1970s Britain and his clothes were sought out and worn by the rich and famous. His work has a high fantasy element to it and he was crowned Designer of the Year in 1970. Much of his work verged on couture and he was unrelenting in striving for perfection. Every piece I bring into the shop is very special and I love this one especially as it truly shows the range of his work. This set is a little extra special because its twin resides in the permanent collection of the Victoria & Albert Museum. They dated it with a general reference to the 1960s but I feel that it has more the feel of the 1977 collection after finding the reference photo of a piece with similar details on it. Bill Gibb's work is extremely rare to find and knowing that this one is important enough to have been acquired by a museum is just an added bonus for a collector .

My photos cannot convey how beautiful this dress is on person. The dress is amazing all on its own even without the jacket that goes over it. It has an empire cut with a halter style bodice. It is suspended from the shoulders by two tiny straps. The fabric that the dress is made out of is a fine ivory netting with a lace pattern worked through it made up of a gold metallic thread. This runs over the entire dress from the top of the shoulders to the hem. The gold that makes up the pattern is denser as it nears the hem and really catches the light and makes the entire dress take on a golden tone and shimmer in the light. The skirting of the dress has been meticulously pleated into tiny little micro pleats. The combination of those tiny pleats and the gold is incredibly beautiful and delicate in feel. It has a lining of the palest pink silk that gives the netting just a touch of a pink feel to it in certain lights. It is incredibly beautiful. You can then slip on the jacket which is cut to fall over the full length of the dress. It has long sleeves and is made out of a pale pink silk chiffon that has been embroidered by hand. The jacket is made up of four panels of fabric that are split along the seams between each panel from the hem right up to the waist line of the dress. Having these sit open along the seams like this allows the fabric of the dress to show underneath when you move. The chiffon that he used to make the jacket is a soft dusty pink silk. The embroidery work at the top of the jacket is done in a combination of soft corals, mint and ivory. The tiniest little seed pearls detail parts of the embroidery. All of the edges of the outer jacket are finished with gold lace. It is just stunning. This is a rare and absolutely amazing piece that is even better in person. It would even be a beautiful choice for a bride who is looking for an alternative to the traditional wedding gown. Excellent condition with one tiny note below.

The dress is fully lined in a pale pink silk and closes with a side metal and nylon zipper. The overlay is unlined and slips on to wear with hook and eye at the very top. Note that it was a bit tiny on my dress form and will fall even better on the proper sized girl. Museum quality and appears to have never been worn, or worn very little. There is one small storage spot on the front panel of the chiffon jacket near the lower edge that is shown on the photo after the label shot. The colors in person are softer and more of a true gold and very soft dusty pink.

Dress
Bust: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist at seam: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips at inner lining: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 13" from top of straps to empire waist seam
Skirt: 44" from waist seam to hem

Overlay
Sleeves: 19"
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist- hips: open
Length: 52" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3079

Reference Photos: (1) Tree Allen in Bill Gibb by Barry Lategan, 1977.  /  (2) Bill Gibb Set from the V&A Online Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Pauline Trigere launched her label in 1942. She moved to the US from Paris in 1937 and I feel like her designs always retained that bit of a French feel to them. By 1949 she had been awarded a Coty and went on to win two more in 1951 and 1959. The 1959 win coincided with being inducted into the Coty Fashion Hall of Fame. She was a pioneer in the use of cottons and wool for evening. In 1961 she made headlines for being the first major fashion house to use an African American model. This is a lovely dress by her from the early 1970s. 

This gorgeous dress has a rope print that covers its surface and plays on the black and white contrast that you see on the dress. The bodice is made out of a semi-sheer silk that has a ribbon effect running through. Under that is a built in white lining and the silk floating over this gives it a bit of added depth. The skirt is made out of the the same silk but the parts between the ribbon finish are more opaque so it feels as if it is a heavier weighted silk even though it is not. This fabric choice gives the dress a wonderful lightness and ease once it is on the body. The top is cut to sit loosely over the bust. There are small gathers along the shoulders for a little bit of detailing and the neckline is set square and wide across. I think you could easily wear the sleeves off the shoulder if you wished. The sleeves are wide and full. They are cut to billow above the elastic cuffs. The waist is seamed and below that the skirt falls in a cascade of fabric to the floor that widens out just touch as it nears the hem. I love the two big pleats set on either side of the skirt that add a touch of volume there. This is a dress that will transform once on an actual body. You could also wear a belt to add more shaping through the waist. Excellent condition with one small note to review below

Both pieces are lined with a semi-sheer silk. White for the top and black for the skirt. The sleeves are unlined and attached at the top of the shoulder only with elastic on their tops. It closes with a metal and nylon zipper at the back. Elastic finishes each sleeve. There is the teeniest of discolouration to the fabric at the small of the back. Please see the last photo after the shot of the label. In person this areas is actually lighter then how it photoed

Sleeves: 19"
Shoulders: no true seam
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16" from shoulder to waist
Skirt: 41" from waist to hem with 4" turned under the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3434

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I think our modern world forgets just how important Oleg Cassini was as a designer in his heyday. From his first film in 1941 he was responsible for many of the best looks on film, dressing stars like Rita Hayworth, Gene Tierney (who he married), Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, Lana Turner and the list goes on and on. In 1952, he opened his own fashion house on Seventh Avenue. By 1961 he was appointed by Jacqueline Kennedy as her exclusive couturier. Some of his early works especially, were more on par with couture, using the same techniques and high fashion fabrics as the French couture houses. This is a later example of his work and yet it still shows the care and meticulous detailing that he put into his work.

The dress is amazing in person. It is made of a black silk chiffon that has been extensively covered with gunmetal silver glass tube beads. The dress is extremely heavy because of the bead work. It weights about 4 pounds and it is gorgeous. The bodice of the dress is suspended by beaded straps and then scoops down with shaping at the front and a lower set line at the back. It has a wide band of beadwork following the top seam and then is shaped by a series of vertically set rows of beads that go all the way around the bodice and end in little jagged ends. It is fitted to the bodice and then nips it in at the waist. The skirt skims over the hips into a pencil shape and then onto that are curved vertical panels that start just under the waist and go to just above the hem. These give the illusion that the skirt is tiered but that ruffled effect is actually created by the panels dropping and layering over each other. I did a photo of it laid out flat so you can get an idea of how much volume is actually in the skirt. When you move the movement this creates is fantastic. Each is finished along the curved edge with a series of stacked rows of beadwork. More vertical bead circle the hips and these are done to pick up that same jagged finish design as on the bodice. The hem is then finished with a wide band of yet more beading. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a black muslin through the bodice and black silk through the skirt. It closes with a back zipper. Hand work throughout. Light boning in the bodice. It looks to have never been worn. Perhaps the occasional bead missing but no bare areas that I could see. 

Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 11.5-12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 42" from shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS

Item# DD3629

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Yves play on the tuxedo and 'Le Smoking' suit is one of his most famous hallmarks. He first presented the now famous suit in 1966. His play on traditional menswear is lauded by many as 'having empowered women by giving them the option to wear clothes that were normally worn by men with influence and power'. This is a stunning example from the Rive Gauche collection of 1992. It was captured on Beverly Peele backstage at the show and you can see in that photo how stunning this is on.

This one has a full length skirt in a rich silk that beautifully balances the cut of the jacket. Yves did variations of this suit every season for both his Couture and Rive Gauche presentations and mixed the play on a men's tuxedo jacket with skirts and pants of varying lengths and cuts. They were shaped and tweaked by Yves to be immensely flattering on the female body. I love this more formal full length skirt version and the fact that you can mix and match the pieces. That combined with the sequins on the jacket make the suit feel so bold and yet still elegant and refined in feel. The jacket is tailored with a sleek cut that follows the curves of the body. It has his signature matte satin tuxedo collar. Yves produced many versions of this suit over the years but what I find remarkable is that each version is distinct in how it closes at the front and the way that the collar is shaped. This one has one over-sized faceted and glossy jet button below that amazing collar. Two flap pockets are top set on the hips and the shoulders are sharp and perfectly padded. The entire jacket except for the collar was then covered in a dense application of glossy black sequins. This catches the light and is fabulous in person. The skirt is cut in a long column of the same silk used for the collar of the jacket. It falls to the floor in a long and lean line and there are pockets hidden on each hip. His suits change the way we approach woman's wear and any example of the Le Smoking version is collectible. They are a particularly wonderful example of how strong his tailoring was and vision for a woman's place in the world. This is an important piece of fashion history. Excellent condition

Both pieces are lined in a black silk. The jacket has a single button at the front to close. The skirt has a zipper and hook & eye at the waist with pockets on each hip. Two pockets on the jacket that still have most of their original tacking to keep them closed. Padding in each shoulder It looks to have been worn very little if at all. The jacket is tagged a 36 and the skirt has no size tag present.

Jacket
Sleeves: 24"
Padded shoulders: 16"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23" from neck to hem at the front, 22 at the back

Skirt
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 43.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3624

Reference Photo: Beverly Peele wearing Yves Saint Laurent. Photo by Roxanne Lowit, 1992. (As seen in the book "Roxanne Lowit Photographs Yves Saint Laurent".

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is an incredible dress that would be from when Marc Bohan was head of the Dior atelier before he retired in 1989. It is a beautiful example of the work being produced by Christian Dior in this time period. In the book Dior; Catwalk, the notes on the fall collection state that the collection was placed 'under the sign of opposites' and that he had looked to the work of Abstract Expressionist painter Jackson Pollock for inspiration. Pieces were adorned in drip embroidery and motifs and then he did a series of long sheath dresses that were 'accessorized with 'Pollock jewels" in jet and multi colour stones'. In the book there is a photo of a long velvet dress with a jacket over it and I wonder if that is a glimpse of the back of the twin of this one. This may have been one of the simple 'sheath like pieces' that were shown with jewels rather then the embroidery you see on the other dresses in the photo. The dress is a true Haute Couture piece and has the appropriate numbered label intact.

The dress is made out of a soft textured silk velvet in a jet black. Using a velvet that has this added texture to it is an incredible choice as the dress catches the light in different ways as you move and it really makes it come to life. The cut is simple and sleek with a low front neckline that dips from an angle created over each shoulder. It slightly curves down to the centre and then the fabric is softly gathered down the centre to the waist. This leaves it with a  slightly bloused over feel over the the nipped in waist. The sleeves are cut long and they slim down as they reach the wrists. There is a slight volume built in at the outer part of each shoulder. On the inside I see hand made silk cases that at one time had light padding in them but the padding has been removed at some point to give it a softer shape. You could easily have some padding put back in if you wanted a stronger shoulder.  Inside the bodice is a more fitted and boned inner silk corseted piece that holds you in place while the silk velvet simply drapes softly over that outside. The skirt is cut to feel sleek and simple and falls to the floor with just a touch of gentle widening as it reaches the hem. A vent runs up the back so that you can walk. It is a beautiful and dramatic piece despite its simple lines. It is meant to be slightly more voluminous through the top and then slimmer through the skirt as was the fashion at the time. Excellent condition with a very minor note below.

Fully interlined in a fine black silk satin and then has a built in bodice made of black silk. The inner bodice is boned and closes with its own zipper as photoed. The exterior dress closes with a back painted metal zipper. Each sleeve has a zipper at the cuff. Appropriate numbered tag present with couture number 19469. Silk hand made pads that have no padding inside each shoulder as described above. Slight damage to the silk on either side of the zipper on the inner corset. Please see the photo after the label shot. 

Sleeves: 23"
Soft shoulders: to 16.5"
Inner bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam with room for up to a B cup
Inner waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 13.5" from shoulder to waist
Length: 45" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3611

Reference Photo: F/W 1984 Christian Dior Couture Runway Collection as shown in the book 'Dior; Catwalk'.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Zandra Rhodes is one of my favourite designers and I love the pieces that she did in the 1980s. This dress is closest  to the work she did for her 'Fairy' collection that was done for the Spring 1981 season. The collection has a strong showing of these black and gold pieces that featured her amazing custom hand painted prints. 

This is a stunning dress that is done in a dramatic combination of black and gold. The skirt is hand painted and the lace on the top has been selected to match and compliment the skirt's design. The bodice is made of a black lace netting that has gold metallic thread woven through to highlight the design in the fabric. The neckline is squared off and I love how the edges of the lace follow the pattern across the neck and back to soften the straight line there. The sleeves are set into that and curve over the shoulders and then run down the arm to just past the elbow. They are unlined so you get glimpses of skin through them. The top curves down past the waist and flares out over the top of the hips. The skirt is set under that and is very full, widening out as it nears the hem. The skirt is constructed in layers. The very outer top layer is a silk organza and then there are layers of tulle with a third inner black silky rayon lining under that. These built in layers are what gives it the fullness that you see and I have not added any extra underskirts. The top layer is completely covered with one of Zandra's signature designs. The gold runs over the entire surface and it is all completely hand painted with a beautiful sun pattern. It is gorgeous and, like all of her pieces, it is very special. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a black silky rayon and closes with a back hidden set zipper. The skirt is made up of multiple layers of  as described above. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Tagged a UK 12, US 10. 

Sleeves: 16"
Shoulders: no true defined seam
Bust: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 60" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD3605

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.