thea porter
Well Documented Spring 1970 Unlabeled Thea Porter Green Butterfly Print Silk Chiffon Dress
- This is a well documented butterfly print Thea Porter dress from Spring 1970.
- It was made under the creative direction Thea Porter.
- Thea Porter combined exoticism, embellished ornamentation and luxurious fabrics in her pieces and her work was a phenomenon during her day.
- This style of dress is one of her most well known dresses and it has been one of her most loved styles since it was first created in 1968. At the time they were referred to as 'Gipsy' dresses although our modern sensibilities no longer refer it to them as that. The Thea Porter book that accompanied the 2015 Fashion and Textile Museum exhibit "Thea Porter 70s Bohemian Chic" (for which over a dozen pieces were pulled from my archives) has many example of stars from that time period wearing their versions. Kate Moss is perhaps the most notable of modern girls who have one and she caused a sensation when she wore her blue version for her wedding rehearsal in 2011. This is almost certainly a one of a kind, or a version of very few that would have been made.
- The butterfly print was by Sheila Hudson and we found references of variations of it on several items. A 1970 evening suit is a part of the V&A Collection. Talitha Getty wore a dress over green trousers to the Paris Casino for a night out with Rudolf Nureyev in 1970 and that photo can be seen in the book 'Thea Porter: Bohemian Chic by Laura McLaws Helms and Venetia Porter.'. Joan Collins and Jackie Collins both wore the print attending the West End premiere of the musical 1776 in London in June 1970 and a dress with the print was shot for British Vogue that June. In modern times, Nicole Ritchie wore a very similar version in 2006.
- The Thea Porter book states that this style of dress were 'generally made out of a combination of three different fabrics, which give it an enduring variety. If the skirt was in plain cloth cotton, the bodice was usually in brocade… We made the dress in every conceivable fabric, from embroidered chiffon to liberty cotton‘s to velvet…. The silhouette of a slimmer torso combined with a full skirt (composed of 4.5 m of fabric) and sleeves became the basis for Porter‘s 'gypsy or gipsy' dress'. (note that this is historically what the dress was called at the time and this is a direct quote from the book). The book goes on to talk about the cut and design of these dresses saying that 'the bust became an integrated part of the body, ending directly below the breasts to create an empire line. The cut is such that the bust is held in securely, yet pushed up, removing the necessity of wearing a bra. The uneven hem of the dress evolved as a form of collaboration between Thea and one of her first seamstresses, Meg Lake, who was self taught and didn’t realize that a circle of fabric cut on the bias would fall irregularly and need to be trimmed. Porter love that effect and the mistake became a design signature.'
- I love that although this is a classic Thea dress it still kind of 'breaks the rules' for these dresses and uses only the one fabric for the entirety of the piece. Which also illustrates the importance that Thea held Sheila's designs in.
- The neckline scoops down in that curved squared off cut these dresses have. A green velvet ribbon details the cut of the bodice and more velvet defines the waist.
- The sleeves are a single layer of the butterfly printed silk chiffon and have a touch of transparency to them. They are magnificently full and each one puffs out above an elastic cuff.
- The skirt is two layers, an inner green layer and then floating over that is a bias cut of the same butterfly printed silk chiffon that the sleeves are made out of.
- The silk of the skirt starts just under the velvet band at the waist and it flares out in yards of silk. It has that perfectly imperfect hem described above with the sides falling slightly longer then the centre.
- The sleeves are unlined and the skirt is lined as described above. It closes with a back set zipper and each sleeve has elastic at the cuffs. The dress is unlabelled. I see slight overall patina to the velvet ribbon. It is an incredible dress
- There is no size tag present. Please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition with the note above.
Sleeves: approx 25" and they are full and open through the upper arm.
Shoulders: no true seam since they are inset
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Velvet ribbon under the bust: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 11" from shoulder to the top of the velvet ribbon under the bust, 16.25" to waist seam
Total length: 48" from shoulder to longest points of hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5813
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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.

























