Stunning Spring 1986 Jacqueline de Ribes Black & Ivory Bias Cut Silk Chiffon Dress
The Metropolitan Museum of Art hosted a Jacqueline de Ribes exhibit in 2015-16, giving her work an extra dose of much needed attention. De Ribes was know as 'one of the most celebrated fashion personas of the 20th century'. She began making dresses for herself and eventually opened her own label in 1982 at the age of 53, producing collections for the next 12 years. Which is remarkable in its own right. This dress is a variation of the one that walked the Spring 1986 runway and we have included the runway photo here. I love that you can see just how full and beautiful the skirt is from these photos. It is a gorgeous dress.
I love this dress so much with its incredible volume and amazing use of fabric and contrast with the black and ivory silk. The dress is made from yards and yards of bias cut silk chiffon. The fabric is so late but even with the multiple layers through the skirt you get this fantastic floating sensation all around you with your slightest move. The neckline is cut into a V at the front and dips lower at the back. It is suspended from wide black velvet straps that curve over the shoulders to meet the edge of the back. The back closes with a combination of a zipper and then a ribbon tied corset above that and hook and eye. This is all hidden from view however by draped panels of silk chiffon that are attached to the strap of the front and then go around to drape over your shoulders and curve around your back. At the front I love how the black silk chiffon sits over the ivory silk underneath for this incredible transparency effect the highlights the tiny pleat work done over each cup of the bust. More of the velvet ribbon defines the waist under that and curved up to between the breasts. From under that the dress cascades to the floor in a loose and voluminous cut. This is where the dress gets truly magical. There are three years of silk that make up the skirt. There's an inner silk layer and then over that is an ivory layer and a black layer that is split down the center so that you can see the ivory one underneath. All these layers flow out in an ever widening silhouette to the ground. There are yards and yard of chiffon that make up the lower portion of the dress. The bottom hem of both chiffon layers are finished with an inner wire that lets the hem curve and twist. This adds extra volume to the layers and creates a fantastically romantic and dramatic effect as the layers float over each other. It is amazing. Over all great condition with a small note to review below
Fully lined in an ivory silk jersey and closes with a back painted metal zipper with a tied corset above that. The inner zipper is curved under at the top and I think the corset part was a later addition. There are areas of yellowing to the draped shoulder part of the dress and some marks tot he interior here and there. See the last two photos after the label shot. Hand finishes throughout and made to demi-couture standards
Bust: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam but can be adjusted upwards several inches if needed due to the corset back
Waist: to 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 14" from top of shoulder to bottom of velvet ribbon at the lowest point
Skirt: 45" from bottom of velvet ribbon to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Reference Photos: Spring 1986 Jacqueline de Ribes Runway.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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