yves saint laurent

Spring 1980 Yves Saint Laurent & Ad Campaign Runway Purple Dress & Jacket Set w B&W Detailing

The twin of the dress and the twin of the jacket both walked the runway in separate looks and then the set together was featured in the ad campaign that year. I love that it this shows you both the provenance of the set and also the versatility of it. You can mix and match the pieces with things from your existing wardrobe or wear them together for the full impact.

This set is one of those pieces that just stops you in your tracks. It is insanely cut and tailored to a master level. Both pieces are made from a rich purple silk that has a tiny ribbed effect to it and a slightly heavier weight. Which is how it holds its shape. It is then detailed with the same silk but in a black and white to make the design that you see. The colour in person are even better than how it photoed and it is a richer feeling purple. The lighting has added a touch of a pink here and there to the photos but in person there is no change of colour at all. The jacket is tailored with a sleek cut that has some fullness through the upper body. There is no collar and the neckline is edged with that fabulous black and white silk. It is all stitched into place and the white parts have an added white sol cording that follows the curves of the design. The pattern is set in an unusual curving design around the neck and then that continues all the way down the front of the jacket. From there it wraps around the hem of the jacket to the back. The shoulders are lightly padded for shape and the sleeves are set into the jacket with soft gathers to add a touch of a capped feel. Each sleeve is cut slightly wider at the top near the shoulder and is cut on a slight curve to follow the arm. As each sleeve narrows down to its hem you see that same B&W pattern detailing you see on the front of the jacket. The dress is simple in shape but has its own wow factor. Straps curve up and over each shoulder. The bodice is equally simple and skims down to the low waist seam. That same gorgeous detail with the black and white wraps around the top edge all the way around to the back. The skirt is gathered into the low set seam for volume below. Inside there is a thick banding of fabric all the way around you  that follows that seam and this gives the skirt support to sit up and away from the hip to create that little shelf effect that you see. It is amazing. The skirt is full and that same edging runs one last time around the hem. Hidden pockets sit on each hip. This is a particularly wonderful example of how he combined strong tailoring with full on glamour and extraordinary detailing. Excellent condition with a minor note below

Both pieces are lined in a purple silk. The jacket closes with the six buttons at the front. The dress zips to close at the side. Pockets on the each hip of the dress. Light padding in the shoulders. A tiny darkening to the fabric here and there but so minor. The jacket is tagged a vintage YSL 36 and the dress a 40.

Sleeves: 22" and 14" around the upper arm
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom hem: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 19" from neck to hem

Bust: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: to 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam at top of hip: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam

Bodice: 18" from top of the shoulder to seam at the top of the hip
Total length: 40" from top of the shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4643

Reference Photos: Spring 1980 Yves Saint Laurent.

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