Spectacular 1970s Lanvin by Jules-Francois Crahay Off or On the Shoulder Draped Jersey Dress
This dress was designed by Belgian-born Jules-Francois Crahay, who headed the Lanvin ateliers from 1964-1984. His time at the Lanvin label is one of my personal favourites for the house. He was known for being a genius at print and colour but he also pushed the envelope in terms of using cutting edge fabrics available during this time period. This dress is a spectacular example of that. All of the detailing that you see is done purely through the manipulation of the fabric. It is gorgeous.
This dress is made out of a black silk jersey that gives it that beautiful draping effect that you see. It's pleating and the way that the fabric is draped give it a touch of a Madame Gres piece in feel. It is insanely beautiful in person. It manages to be simple and yet very complex at the same time. The dress flows to the floor in a long and dramatic swoop of jersey. The skirt is constructed in a way that when you are standing perfectly still it falls in a perfect column but when you move you realize that there is a tremendous amount of fabric in there. The bodice is shaped and boned so that it has a more structured feel to it and it is fitted to the body. The front is set in a peaked sweetheart that emphasizes the bust. The jersey is draped over this and crosses over itself at the front. The waist nips in and is shaped. The skirt is set under the edge of the bodice and I love the evenly spaced pleats that run all the way around you. The sleeves are very unusual. Each is a single layer of jersey cut extra long and with a full gathered cap near the shoulders. The upper part of the shoulder is soft and this allows you to be able to wear them both on or off the shoulders. When you wear them up and on the shoulders they have a more squared off formal feel and when worn down they take on a softer feel that leaves the shoulders completely bare. The sleeves are cut extra long so when it is on an actual person they will gather up along the arm and extend that draped feel that the shoulders have. The dress is beautifully finished with hand work throughout. This is a dress that needs an actual body in it to truly come to life. The photos do not come anywhere near to how amazing this dress is in person. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
The bodice is fully lined in black silk and the skirt unlined. It closes with a hidden set side painted metal zipper. Boning through the sides and bodice. Hand finishes throughout. Tagged a 38. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.
Sleeves: approx 24"
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Skirt: 46" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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