Rare & Beautiful 1950s Philip Hulitar Couture Dress w Fused Velvet Roses on a Rich Ivory Silk
Philip Hulitar designed under his own namesake label from 1949 to his retirement in 1964 so his pieces fall in a very defined window for dating. He was known for his sophisticated dresses and evening gowns. Shortly after the launch of his label a journalist gushed that; 'The star of a gifted designer has risen recently on the fashion horizon'. Prior to launching his own label, Mr Hulitar was the in-house designer and head of the women's dress division for Bergdorf Goodmans for 18 years. His designs are stunning and this particular dress is one of the best I have ever seen.
This dress is absolutely incredible and so rare. The fabric alone is a work of art and it would not be something you could produce anymore in our modern world. The base is a luxurious ivory silk and then onto this is a fantastic floral design. The flowers are fused directly onto the silk and are very soft to the touch. They have a velvet chenille like finish which is what gives them that beautiful texture and softness. Parts of the design have flowers that have been hand cut and appliqued by hand onto the fabric. These are mainly around the neckline and parts are set so that they sit above the top edge of the bodice. To hold those perfectly in place they are fixed to fine wire and this holds them in place. Those flowers in their tomes of deep blood reds completely cover the dress. The cut is pure Hollywood. The bodice is fitted to your curves and it is suspended from the shoulders by two tiny straps in the same fabric. Seams at either side of the back give shape around the waist without having to have a waist seam to break the eye. The fabric is gathered and seamed into those back panels. It curves over the hips and falls to the floor in a column of silk. The seaming brings the silk in slightly as it nears the hem so you get a true hourglass feel once this is on the body. A long wide panel runs down the center of the back and extends out at the hem for a flared finish that is slightly longer than the front. It is just spectacular. The bodice is lightly boned and the zipper is hidden under a side seam at the back. I love the little bow detail that sits off to one side at the back. This is pure Old Hollywood in the best possible way. This would make an amazing wedding dress for the bride looking for a non-traditional choice or as an alternative dress in a more extended wedding celebration. And of course it could also be worn to any event. Excellent condition with a small note below
Fully lined cream silk. It closes with a back painted metal zipper hidden under a seam and there is an inner hooked waist stay. Light boning through the bodice. Hand work throughout. I see a tiny bit of colour run near the edge on the bodice and another small areas near the hem. Some minor marks on the interior. Please the photos after the label shot
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam with room to at least a B cup at front
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 57" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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