Bill Blass became the head designer at Maurice Rentner in 1959 and soon after that his name started to appear on the labels. In 1970 he bought out the Maurice Rentner label and re-launched it under his own name. These Bill Blass for Maurice Rentner pieces are some of his earliest and you will find many of them, like the twin of this coat, in museum collections throughout the world. A version of the coat was also shot on Verushka that year. It is amazing. 

This is the second time that I have had one of these Bill Blass coats in the shop. The base of the coat is a dark brown velvet that gives the jacket a rich opulent feel. Onto the velvet is an intricate hand done design in a muted silver thread. I love how the silver subtly catches the light from every angle. There is piped and padded detailing added to the collar, the end of each cuff and down the front of the coat. The padding also continues all the way around the hem. This added detail is not just a pretty finish to the design it also structurally helps to hold the shape of the coat. The shoulders are shaped but soft. The sleeves are slightly cropped and each is cut wide and full. It closes down the front with a series of hidden snaps  and the simplicity of design that this gives the coat is what allows that beautiful fabric to take centre stage. Rows of silver tube beads are set in a braided pattern edge all of the piped parts of the coat for the perfect final detailing. It is a beautiful vintage piece. Excellent condition with a minor note below.

Fully lined in a matching brown cotton and closes at the front with silk covered hand set hidden snaps. Pockets along the seam on each hip. Hand finished throughout. I see some light wear on some of the silk covering of the snaps. It otherwise appears to have been worn very little if at all.

Sleeves: 19" and is 14" around the upper arm
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 39" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4864

Reference Photo: (1) 1968 Bill Blass coat from the Indianapolis Museum of Art Collection.  /  (2) Veruschka in Bill Blass, Vogue, September 1968.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Bill Blass launched his label in 1970 when he bought out the Maurice Rentner label and re-launched it under his own name. Blass was arguably one of the most famous of  the American designers. His forte was the ability to mix simple styles with luxurious materials and his evening wear in particular seemed to have a way of flattering the wearer. He knew how to walk that line perfectly. This is a beautiful example of his work from this time period.

The dress is made from a light weight black silk organza and it is an easy-to-wear and very pretty dress. The dress is made to look as if it wraps around you but it actually is fully secured all the way around. The bodice has a cross over the front and is meant to skim over you to the waist. At the back it closes with a hook and eye at the top of the neck and then there is an open keyhole slit to where the zipper begins just above the waist. I love how the back and upper part of the shoulders are made from only one layer of the organza so that it has a touch of transparency. This transparency has been carried over to the sleeves as well. The sleeves are spectacular. Each one is extremely full and balloons out over the cuffs. They are also open with a keyhole from the top of the shoulder to the wrist. The wrist is highlighted with a bow made from the same organza and then you have a huge double ruffle of silk that falls over your hands. The waist is brought in and has an attached band of the same organza that you tied to one side. Under that the skirt falls to the floor and widen out beautifully. It is scooped up at the front to one side and there is another double layer of ruffles that begins at the top of the hip and then falls all the way to the floor. It follows the edge of the skirt all the way around the back and then scoops up the other side. This adds that incredible volume and drama to the skirt that you see. The skirt is lined underneath and the inner skirt has a smaller open slit so that your full leg is not exposed. If you wanted to, you could easily expand that inner slit so that opened all the way up and you did see all of your leg. It is gorgeous and even more beautiful in person. Excellent condition with a minor note below.

Fully lined in a black silk. It closes at the back of the neck with a hook at the top of the neck and a zipper starting just above the waist. Each cuff hooks to close, and the belt at the waist snaps into place. Perhaps the tiniest bit of fading to an edge here or there, but this is a natural occurrence with this type of fabric in this age of garment and I'm being pretty picky.

Sleeves: 29" including the 6 inch ruffle. 15" around the upper arm.
Shoulders: 16"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 14" from top of shoulder to top of the band at the waist
Total length: 61" from top of the shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD4656

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

Bill Blass launched his label in 1970 when he bought out the Maurice Rentner label and re-launched it under his own name. Blass was arguably one of the most famous of  the American designers. His forte was the ability to mix simple styles with luxurious materials and his evening wear in particular seemed to have a way of flattering the wearer. He knew how to walk that line perfectly. This is a gorgeous example of his work from this time period. It is beyond gorgeous and it is one of my favorites from him. I have had this dress in the shop before and at last we have been able to date it. It is from the Spring 1984 collection

I have had the twin of this dress in the shop in the past and I love it more every time I find it. The main body of the dress is made from a deep royal purple silk that has a vivid pink ruffle that runs all the way down one whole side. The way that the pink is attached to the dress gives the dress the feel that that it has been wrapped around the bust and then tied into a dramatic bow at the shoulder with the ties trailing down your side. It actually is all attached and a part of the dress but I love how it makes the dress feel. The pink is gathered and warps all the around the bust and then is caught up at side to create that gorgeous bow that you see. The other shoulder is left completely bare for a little skin to show. Under the bow the pink silk runs down the side of the dress in an extravagant ruffle finish all the way to the hem. The inner bust has boning to support you and there is a little hidden strap under the bow to keep it in place. The body of this is cut loose and easy and it widens out it falls to the floor. It is extraordinary. Even more beautiful in person. It appears to have been worn a very little if at all. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a deep purple silk. The inner bodice closes with its own zipper and then the dress zips to close over that with a hidden set zipper. Lightly boned through the inner bodice.

Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam and the outer waist goes to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 56" from top of shoulder strap to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4109

Reference Photos: (1-2) Fall 1984 Bill Blass Runway, Model Dalma Callado.  /  (3-4) Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

Bill Blass launched his label in 1970 when he bought out the Maurice Rentner label and re-launched it under his own name. Blass was arguably one of the most famous of  the American designers. His forte was the ability to mix simple styles with luxurious materials and his evening wear in particular seemed to have a way of flattering the wearer. He knew how to walk that line perfectly. This is a gorgeous example of his work and I love that I can date it based on the very similar one that was used the a Vogue shoot that year. It gives you a better idea of how it will look like once on a body.

The dusty pink mauve coloured sequins that cover that entirely this dress are so densely applied that they actually overlap one another. There are hundreds of thousand of sequins used and it is incredible. Mixed in with those is a band of gold beads that wrap around the hips. This is set around the on one side and widens out over the hip and then narrows to a point where it meets the low set waist seam. Another triangle feeling band sits at the hem of the skirt on the opposite side. This time done in silver sequins. It is cut in that fabulous eighties big volume on top over a fitted skirt. The shoulders are strong and padded for shape. The neckline is scooped and the sleeves are long. The bodice is cut long and it is meant to blouse out over the skirt. Inside there is a silk lining in that same purple and then the sequin fabric is also lined in silk. It buttons down the back and you get a tiny glimpse of skin between the buttons. The sequins catch the light at your slightest move and its fabulous in person. Excellent condition.

Fully lined in silk with a low set inner zipper at the waist and a series of buttons down the back. Padding in the shoulders, It is meant to be oversized at the top so the hips are the most important measurement to consider.

Sleeves: 22"
Shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: open
Seam at top of skirt: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 19.5" from top of shoulder to seam at top of skirt
Skirt: 22" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS

Item# DD3953

Reference Photo: (1) Models in Bill Blass, Vogue, October 1982.  /  (2-4) Fall 1982 Bill Blass Collection. Model Alva Chinn.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

The twin of this Geoffrey Beene dress was showcased in the Met Museum's exhibit 'In America: A Lexicon of Fashiont' and that  dress resides in their permanent collection. This was already one of his most iconic dresses and it is now even more so after the exhibit and being included in the accompanying book. The dress is heavily documented and was photoed extensively the year that it debuted. It is an extraordinary dress

The cut of the dress is so perfectly simple. It is made out of a black very light wool jersey that has an almost soft t-shirt feel to it. The dress is unlines and the jersey has perhaps the slightest bit of transparency in certain lights, which only adds to its sensuality. The sleeves are long and sleek. Each one ends in a hidden set zipper and their edges are finished in a black silk ribbon. That same black silk ribbon edges the neckline. The dress is cut to skim over you at the front with slight shaping through the waist. It curves back out over the hips and then falls to the floor where it widens out. At the back, you see that bare expanse of skin which is what makes the dress so famous. It hooks at the back of the neck and then it curves out and around to a very low dipping back. Insets of a pale silk chiffon curve down and into the sides of the hip seams to give the illusion that you are even more bare than you actually are. Where are those inserts end, the seams extend down and curved to the front where they run down towards the centre hem. This clever bit of seaming helps to shape the dress around you and continues that curved feeling that the open back gives. It is quite genius. One of the most iconic dresses ever made. Excellent condition with a minor note below.

The dress is unlined and slips over the head to wear. It hooks at the back of the neck. Ribbon finished inner seams and hidden set zippers at each cuff. Tagged a vintage Beoffrey Beene 8. I see two teeny tiny repairs near the centre back seam. The jersey has stretch through the body and the comfortable range of the measurements are below 

Sleeves: 24” and 14-16" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 15”
Bust: 17-20” flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-16” flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18-22” flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 61” 

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4871

Reference Photos: (1-5) Fall 1989 Geoffrey Beene (credits unknown)  /  (6) Model in Geoffrey Beene for Mirabella magazine, 1989, photographed by Michael O'Neill.  /  (7) Part of The MET Collection online.  /  (8) Image from the book "In America: A Lexicon of Fashion" that accompanied the MET Exhibit of the same name.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

Vicky Tiel was backed by Elizabeth Taylor as a young designer after working on the costumes for 'Whats New Pussycat'. After a stint with a partner she launched her self named label in Paris in 1970. She as one of the very early boutique owner/designer that offered a ready-to-wear option in Paris. That said, her clothes often walk a fine line between ready-to-wear and couture in terms of their construction and techniques used. By the mid to late seventies her style had developed into the ultra sexy and feminine clothing that she is now known best for. By the eighties and into the nineties, she had a cult celebrity following. This is a stunning example from 1984 of just how gorgeous and dramatic her work could get. 

The dress has the added modern provenance of being worn by both Julianne Hough and by Liz Gillies. We have included some of the photos from those two events and they show you just how fantastic this dress is once on the body.

The dress is made of a metallic gold lame fabric that gives it an extra shot of glamour. The fabric is quite light in weight so despite the elaborate construction of the dress is not heavy to wear. It is just heavy enough to hold the intended shape fabulously. The bodice is cut in a strapless rounded sweetheart finish that is very flattering. It is elaborately gathered and fitted around the bust with hand placed and gathered folds. Hidden inside is a built in under the lining internal structure with light boning so that the dress stays perfectly in place when it is on. The boning extends at each side, down and around the hips, which helps to hold the hourglass shape around the body. It is genius. The waist is nipped in but without any seam to break the gorgeous gathers that go across the dress. It curves out and over the hips and then under that the skirt falls in a straight long pencil silhouette with a vent up the back to allow you to walk and move. The gold glimmers in the light and it is one of the best Vicky Tiel dresses that I have ever had in the shop. It is so sensual and sexy and is even better once it is on an actual body. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a black silky rayon and closes with a painted metal and nylon zipper at the back. Boning through the bodice and sides as described above. Tagged a vintage Tiel 38. 

Bust: 15-16" flat across from side seam to side seam w up to a B-small C at the front
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 51" from top of bodice to hem with about 1.5" turned under

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4868

Reference Photo: (1) Vicky Tiel in Town & Country magazine, December 1984.  /  (2) Julianne Hough in this dress at the NYC Ballet Spring Gala, 2023.  /  (3) Liz Gillies in this dress, November 2023.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

This has been in my archives for a while now and it is a lovely little jacket by Yves Saint Laurent that most likely is from the later 80s or early 90s. The colour is a rich deep chocolate and the fur is supple, soft and very shiny. The jacket is cut in a classic swing car coat style and it is a piece that you just slip on and it has no closures down the front. There are pockets on each side of the front and it is cut with a full flare as it nears the hem. The sleeves are cut straight and full to the wrist. At the wrist they have a 2" cuff and the fur has been gathered into the cuff in little pleats to create a bit of a pouf effect above the wrist. The collar is a neat and sits up to frame the neck. It has been properly stored and cared for and appears to have been worn very little if at all. No splitting or shedding. It is a lovely example of the work from this label during this period of its history. Excellent condition with a minor note below.

Fully lined in a deep brown silk that has the YSL logo running over it. Slit pockets on each side at the front. I see no bald spots or shedding, the pelts are supple, soft and shiny. Perhaps slight wear at edges of the sleeves and very edge of the hem, but very minor and mentioned for full accuracy. For a vintage fur I still rate this as excellent. The fur has been professionally cleaned. It has a minor touch of a vintage smell to it, but is still supple and is stable with no signs of excessive shedding that would indicate that it is breaking down. 

Sleeves: approx 22.5" and is 20" around the upper arm
Shoulders: approx 15"
Bust: to 26" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist-hips: open
Length: 37" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4865

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

I have a small collection of historically important, key designer labelled vintage furs and fur trimmed pieces stored away in my archives that I will be slowly posting on the site over the next couple of years until I have none left. I will no longer be buying furs for the shop moving forward and have not purchased anything for several years now. I feel like times have changed and while there still is a place for vintage furs for some, including collectors and historians, many modern girls are choosing other options. Many of the pieces in my collection are representative of the designer during a set time period in history that was different then our modern outlook. I have decided that the best course to handle this controversial issue is to let the pieces I have go rather then sit in a cold storage unit. Fur coats are final sale.

Each piece that John Anthony made was on a made-to-order basis, which means that each piece is the only one that exists, or in the very occasional circumstance that there are similar pieces made, only a very limited amount of pieces were done. All of the pieces I currently have in the shop come directly from John's archive. 

He is one of the great American couturiers and he was known for his sharp tailoring and striking evening wear. He launched his atelier in 1971 and he quickly rose to fame, winning a Coty award in 1972 and then again in 1976. This is the original sample of this piece from his archives. We found a series of photos of pieces with the same bead work so you can get an idea of how beautiful they are on the body.

The dress is made out of a feather light deep brown silk chiffon. Glass tube beads are set in vertical rows over both pieces and all of the beads have been applied by hand in perfect little rows onto the silk. I love how they catch the light from every angle. Both pieces have a simple and easy cut so that they are easy to wear and are very flattering on the body. The neckline is scooped and closes with a hook and eye at the back of the neck above a keyhole. The sleeves have the same bead detailing and then they fall in a straight cut to the wrist for a touch of fullness. The bodice is cut to skim loosely over you to the waist. The waist is finished with elastic which lets the silk pouf under a touch. The skirt has a banded waist and falls to the floor under that. It flares out a touch as it nears the hem. It has a high slit on one side for a flash of leg to show. They are gorgeous when worn together. The work has all been done by hand and the workmanship is fantastic. They fall like a dream once on the body. Excellent condition with a minor note below

Fully lined in a second layer of nude silk chiffon. The top closes with a hook and eye above a keyhole at the back of the neck and has elastic at the bottom seam. The skirt closes with hook and eye at the waist and a zipper under that. A tiny area of missing beads here and there but nothing major. Please see the photo after the label shot. The sample tag is stitched inside the cuff of one sleeve.

Top
Sleeves: 23"
Shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom seam: 14-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 27" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 45" from waist to hem
Slit: 27" from hem up

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4571

Reference Photos: Fall 1981 John Anthony Ready to Wear Advance Preview.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

This remarkable dress is the twin of the one that walked the runway for the Fall 1986 Rive Gauche collection by Yves Saint Laurent. I was so pleased to find a shot of it on because it really shows you just how much it comes to life when worn. He did several variations of this look for that season and this deep brown velvet with its leopard print within the velvet is one of my favourites. I am obsessed with his work and this one is so well known, especially since other designers have copied it (most notably Gucci when they did a green version of this dress). It is a pleasure to have it in the shop.You can see that they belted it on the runway and you could certainly add a belt to add more shape to this one as well.

This gorgeous dress is made out of a brown silk velvet with a leopard print done in a different finish of velvet within the fabric. This pattern gives the velvet an extra depth and richness, and also catches the light as you move. It is stunning. It drapes absolutely beautifully over the body. It is really an outstanding fabric. The bodice is set into a deep V that crosses over itself where it is set into the waist. Without a belt it has a more deeply plunged feel but you could cross it over a bit more and have a sash or belt hold it more closed if you wished. In a classic Yves shape, it drapes loosely over you at the front with a touch of extra fullness. The waist is seamed and cut slightly on the more generous side. The top of each shoulder is gathered and the sleeves start out very wide and then narrow down to a zippered cuff. The skirt falls to the floor in a pretty sweep of fabric. Extra fabric has been gathered down the centre of the front for a little added detail. It makes it so glamorous and it gives the dress a bit of a wonderful 1940s feel too. It is a gorgeous dress and a wonderful piece of his fashion history. Excellent condition

Unlined and closes with a side set zipper. Each shoulder has very light padding and each cuff has a hidden set zipper. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Tagged a vintage YSL 42. 

Sleeves: 23.5"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 16-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 24" across lowest seam at very top of hips, open under that
Bodice: 17" from top of shoulder to slightly dropped waist
Total length: 59" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4855

Reference Photo: Fall 1986 Yves Saint Laurent Runway.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.