Dreamy Spring 1984 Lanvin by Jules-Francois Crahay Runway Red Linen & Black Dress w Open Bow Back

I just had the near twin of the dress in the shop a couple of months ago and I am very pleased to find this version so quickly. It is a stunning dress and shows the softer, more romantic side of Lanvin from this time period. This was designed by Jules-Francois Crahay, who headed the Lanvin ateliers from 1964-1984. In the book Lanvin by Rizzoli, there is a lovely forward from Alber Elbaz, that noted that the Spring 1984 was Crahay's last RTW collection for the label before his retirement which makes a piece from that collection that much more special. Crahay's time at the Lanvin label is one of my personal favourite periods for the house and I think it is so special to have a documented piece from his last RTW collection. The runway photos also show you just how great this one is on the body. I love it.

This one is different from the first version I had in that the back skirt is purposefully split so you get a pop of black from the underskirt. It was common for designers to showcase two or three versions of the same dress for their clients during this time period. We often see that with Marc Bohan's work for Dior as well. This version feels a little bit more avante garde than the other and I love how the black of the underskirt picks up the black backing of the bows above. The dress is made from a beautiful hand loomed red linen. The linen gives it a stunning texture and the depth of colour that is achieved by using linen is fantastic. It has been lined in a black silk that peaks out from the back opening. From the front the dress is this beautifully simple and romantic feeling dress. The sleeve are softly gathered into the shoulders and they are cut wide and straight to just above the elbow. The bodice skims over you to the waist. The cut through the waist area is slightly more on the loose and easy side and depending on how tight you tie the back it can sit more loose and easy or with a bit more shape. The skirt is set into the waist in a series of tiny soft gathers. This picks up beautifully on the shoulders and adds a little volume around the hips and through the skirt. I love the pockets hidden along each hip. They really add to the easy feeling that the dress has. The skirt has tons of fabric in it. When you stand straight you don't really realize how much fabric has been used but when you move or sit it really flows around you beautifully. The upper back is almost shocking with the surprise of it when you turn around. It is completely open to the waist and then the opening is held in place by three wide ties. The linen extends out on each side of the back and then each tie combines the red linen for the top of the tie and black silk for the other side. When you ties these into bows you get this fantastic combination of red, black and your bare skin peeking out between it all. It is a fantastic dress that is sexy and sweet at the same time. I love it. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a black silk satin through the top and black silk through the skirt. It close with a hidden zipper on the inner black skirt and then has three ties down the open back. It appears to have been worn very little, if at all. Tagged a vintage Lanvin 38

Sleeves: 13" and 14" around at the widest point 
Shoulders: adjustable with tie
Bust: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam and can be adjusted in and can be adjusted in words with the ties
Waist: to 11.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 14.5" fromtop of shoulder to waist
Total length: 56.5" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS

Item# DD4766

Reference Photos/Video: (1) Spring 1984 Lanvin Runway.

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