Numbered Spring 1984 Lanvin by Jules-Francois Crahay Runway Red Lined Dress w Open Bow Back

This is a stunning dress and shows the softer, more romantic side of Lanvin from this time period. This would have been designed by Jules-Francois Crahay, who headed the Lanvin ateliers from 1964-1984. In the book Lanvin by Rizzoli, that has a lovely forward from Alber Elbaz, it is noted that the Spring 1984 was Crahay's last RTW collection for the label before his retirement. Crahay's time at the Lanvin label is one of my personal favourite periods for the house and I think it is so special to have a documented piece from his last RTW collection. Having the runway photos makes it that much more special since you can really see how great this one is on the body.

The dress is made from a beautiful hand loomed red linen. The linen gives it a stunning texture and the depths of colour that is achieved by using linen is fantastic. It has been lined in a black silk and from the back this gives it that wonderful contrast that you see. From the front the dress is this beautifully simple and romantic feeling dress. The sleeve are softly gathered into the shoulders and they are cut wide and straight to just above the elbow. The bodice is squared off at the front and it is cut to skim over you to the waist. The cut through the waist area is loose and easy and depending on how tight you tie the back it can sit more loose and easy or with a bit more shape. The skirt is set into the waist in a series of tiny soft gathers. This picks up beautifully on the shoulders and adds a little volume around the hips and through the skirt. I love the pockets hidden along each hip. They really add to the easy feeling that the dress has. The skirt has tons of fabric in it. When you stand straight you don't really realize how much fabric has been used but when you move or sit it really flows around you beautifully. The back is almost shocking with the surprise of it when you turn around. He has scooped the waist down to expose the very lower back and then it is open above that and held in place by three ties. The linen extends out on each side of that scooped back in wide ties and then each tie is a combination of the red linen on the top and the black silk underneath. When you ties these into bows you get this fantastic combination of red, black and your bare skin peeking out between it all. It is a fantastically surprising dress that is sexy and easy at the same time. I love it. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a black silk satin through the top and black silk through the skirt. It close with a the hidden zipper on the inner lining at the low back. The back ties into place above that. There is a slightly darkened spot on the front skirt that is very minor. The dress is numbered under one folded edge of the tag. I did not take a photo of it because it's really hard to get to but if you twist the edge up you can see it.

Sleeves: 12.5" and 14" around at the widest point
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15.5" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 43" from waist to front hem, 47" to the back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4429

Reference Photos/Video: (1) Spring 1984 Lanvin Runway.

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