hanae mori

Important Fall 1972 Hanae Mori Couture Ad & Book Piece Silk Chiffon Printed & Ruffled One Sleeve Caftan Dress

On Layaway

Hanae was the first woman of Japanese descent to have presented on the Paris and New York runways and the first Asian woman to be admitted as an official Haute Couture house to La Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. Her work is exceptional. Hanae Mori excelled at these beautiful prints that combined nature had elements of her homeland. Her caftans are the most sought after pieces and so very hard to find. When I find pieces like this one that is such a stunningly beautify example of her caftans I am very happy. I feel that pieces like this are among the very best representations of her work. This one is extra special as its near twin was used in the ad campaign that year and its actual twin is predominantly featured in the book on her work "Hannae Mori 1960-1989". It is not always easy to date her pieces and I love having such wonderful documentation. It also shows you how beautiful this piece is on the body.

This is everything you look for in a piece by Hanae Mori. It is spectacular. Her caftans especially are almost impossible to find anymore and this one has been in my archives forever. It has one of her custom designed prints screened onto masses of feather light silk chiffon that is layered over an inner silk twill sheath dress with the same print. Think the finest silk scarf you could have in terms of weight and feel. The entire dress has been printed with gorgeous tropical trees, mountains and birds that are seen flitting across its surface. The neckline is high and folded over itself and the shoulders are soft. The inner dress is attached around the neckline and top of the shoulders and then falls to the floor, skimming over the body where it widens out a touch as it reaches the hem. The top layer floats spectacularly over that. On one side is an attached sleeve and that sleeve balloons out beautifully over a more structured cuff. On the other side the silk extends out to cape over the arm and there are miles of fabric on that side. This top layer is spectacularly full and falls on a curve down to the hem of the dress. All of the edge on that side, around the hem, and up the side on the other side are finished with a wide ruffled hem. There are three layers of silk that make up that ruffled hem. It is incredible. As with the best of Hanae's dresses the effect of having the same print on the top layer and the inner layer gives the design added dimension and depth as they float over each other. The movement and drama that all this fabric creates is extraordinary. This is a dress that you slip on and feel completely comfortable when wearing it and yet it has as much drama and impact as you could ask for. I love having that spectacular book photo to really show you how wonderful the dress is. It is a stunning and very rare and well documented example of her work and beautifully made. I love it. Excellent condition with some minor notes below.

The inner dress is a silk twill that is lined in a silk and the outer silk chiffon layer floats over that.  The inner dress zips to close, and then the outer dress buttons to close over that with hook and eye at the neck. The cuff closes with two silk covered snaps. There are a couple of tiny marks on the outer layer here and there. I also see one tiny pinhole in the silk chiffon on the back of the arm and a small repair at the base of the exterior opening. All are minor. Please see the photos after the label shot. The edges of the ruffles are hand rolled and have wire in them for shape. Extensive hand finishing throughout the entire caftan. The colour is slightly more pastel feeling in person. The inner dress could easily be adjusted up or down so should work on a range of sizes

Sleeve: 26" and it is 13" around the upper arm
Shoulders: approx 15" but no true defined seam
Inner bust: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: to 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 21.5" flat across the inner seam but adjustable with the sash
Total length: 61" from top of the shoulder to the longest point of the hem

Reference Photo: (1) From the book " Hanae Mori 1960-1989".  /  (2) Hanae Mori ad from Vogue UK, November 1972.

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG

Item# DD4757

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