emanuel ungaro

Documented Fall 1984 Emanuel Ungaro Haute Couture Silver Velvet Dress & Feather Jacket

The twin of this set walked the the Fall 1984 Haute Couture runway and was worn by supermodel Kirat Young. It was also photoed that season for what I believe was an editorial shoot. I have included those reference photo here for you so that you can see how amazing it is on the body. Emanuel Ungaro launched his label in 1965 after working for both Balenciaga and Courrreges. He was a brilliant designer who was known for his of extravagant fabrics and flamboyance. His Haute Couture pieces are not easy to find and this set is stunning and even better in person 

I always love a set because of the versatility you get with one. You can wear these together as shown or wear the dress on its own and mix the jacket in with pieces you already have. The dress is particularly amazing. It is cut in that signature Ungaro silhouette for this time period. He made these dresses to hug and highlight every curve of your body. The dress is made out of a silver silk velvet that has a metallic silver and gold foil worked through the fabric. This gives allows it to catch the light from every angle but it feels subtle and not garish. The fabric is hand draped and stitched to give it an incredible soft pleated texture. The bodice has a highly modified sweetheart shape with one side set at a high peak and the other in a soft curve. The gathers are shaped to follow the line of the bust and emphasize the breasts. On the side that it zippers to close on there is a strip of hand applied beads and sequins that run down the full length of the dress for extra detailing. The jacket is made from an ivory lace that is hand applied over an ivory silk. Onto the top lace layer is a mix of embroidery work, little silk appliqué pieces, rhinestones and faux pearls. The shoulders are padded and the top of the sleeve is gathered around the shoulder so you have fullness there. They narrow from there to the wrist. The waist is brought in and shaped with vertical seaming and the hips flare out dramatically. There are no closures on the jacket, it is meant to just slip on and sit over the dress. It is finished with a dramatic Ostrich and silver foil feather border that that wraps around the neck, down the front and all the way around the hem. Both pieces are completely made by hand and the proper Haute Couture numbered tape is present. It’s gorgeous. Excellent condition

The dress is hand lined in a ivory silk and closes with a hand set side zipper. The bodice is boned. Interior waist stay hooks to close. The jacket has no closures. Padding in each shoulder. I see minor marks on the interior lining of the dress and perhaps a slight grubbiness to the inner arms of the jacket. Please see the last photo after the label shot.

Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 9" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 25" from waist to hem

Sleeves: 23"
Slightly extended shoulders: 16"
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: approx 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: approx 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 32" from neck to hem, including the feathers

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3367

Reference Photo: (1) Fall 1984 Emanuel Ungaro Haute Couture. (via @only_french_couture).  /  (2-6) Fall 1984 Emanuel Ungaro Haute Couture Runway Show. Model: Kirat Young.

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