maggy rouff

c1959 Haute Couture Maggy Rouff Red Draped Gown

The woman behind the Maggy Rouff label was Maggy Besançon de Wagner and she started her own label in 1928 after a working at the Haute Couture house of Drecoll. The Maggy Rouf house joined the Chambre de commerce et d'industrie de Paris in 1929 and continued to produce Haute Couture until 1965. She developed a staunch following for her gowns and one of the mainstays of her design was that each gown have a main focal point. Draping techniques, as we see portrayed magnificently in this gown, were a signature element.

I spoke to the person who handled the sale of this dress for the original owner and this was custom made for her and most likely dates to the 1958-59 season. The gown is tremendously beautiful and has all the hallmarks of Haute Couture. It is entirely made by hand and the fabric a weightless red silk chiffon. It is heavily gathered and rushed and seems to wrap around the body with a strong panel of draping down the front and hand placed seamed drapes and curved seams that wrap the dress around the body and up and into this center panel.  The back is magnificent with a sweep of silk at the hem to create a trained effect resulting in a beautiful cascading column of shimmering silk sweeping across the back skirt. There are no embellishments to the gown and indeed it needs none with the overt use of draping. Inside is a full boned bodice with garter belts attached as well as a series of inner hooked stays running down the back to hold the dress in place. The fitted silhouette and red silk make for a very sexy gown. Presents as excellent condition but please do read the description notes.

There is a complete boned inner foundation garment built in with a series of hooked stays that run down and behind the zipper. It also has garter belts built in. There is a minor "grubbiness" to the fabric along the edges of parts of the side bodice, hem and zipper area (hidden once the train is in place) and very minor surface scuffs/thinning to the fabric here and there with some small minor ones on the skirt lost in the folds. Hand rolled edges. I see two small well done repairs near the hem of the skirt at the back and a repair to the seam of the exterior payer of the skirt under the zipper. These get lost in the folds and excessive fabric there. The fabric along the edge of the zipper is fragile and starting to degrade a bit. It could be worn with care but it at the beginning stages of becoming fragile. Completely made by hand as Haute Couture demands and remarkable construction.

Note that this one is sold as found and as a final sale

Bust: 13.5-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 10.5-12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 58" from top of the straps to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD2225

Reference Photos: Amanda Lee Shirreffs - Click here to see her original blog post on this look >

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.