issey miyake

1990s Issey Miyake "Pleats Please" Copper Shawl Poncho Dress

The Pleat Please label began production in 1993 and I am sure this is a piece from early on in this label's history. It is an incredible piece that falls somewhere between a poncho, a shawl and a dress in that it is basically a huge swatch of fabric with a V cut out at the neck. After slipping your neck through it drapes down and trails onto the floor on one side and is cut to just about the knee on the other. I could not find a reference photo for how it was styled on the runway but I would imagine that you could be quite creative and belt it or drape it in a million different ways. The process of how the fabric was made is quite interesting, it involves heat-treating the polyester jersey to permanently retain washboard rows of horizontal, vertical or diagonal knife-edge pleats. The fabrics are cut and sewn first, then sandwiched between layers of paper and fed into a heat press, where they are pleated. The fabric’s ‘memory’ holds the pleats after the garments are liberated from their paper cocoons. This is a great and early example of one of the true modern innovators. Excellent, appears unworn condition.

Unlined and slips on. Note that this has incredible amount of play and movement so the measurements provided are of the garment lying flat and with reasonable stretch. The sides of the garments are open - it is literally a huge swatch of fabric with an opening for the neck

Length: from the neck to hem on the longest side it is 75", on the shorter side it is 36"
Width: 44.5" side to side

Modern Sizing Equivalent: OSFA

Item# DD2576

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.