thierry mugler

Fantastic c.1983 Thierry Mugler Black Raw Silk Vertical Panel Dress w Car Wash Hem & Silk Chiffon

  • We believe the dress to be from the Spring of 1983 based on the reference photo that we found with a similar design especially given the cut of the lower skirt of that dress.
  • It was made under the creative direction of Thierry Mugler 
  • The fabric of the dress is a black raw silk which helps to hold the design and intended shape.
  • The construction of the dress is quite brilliant. Long vertical panels of the fabric have been pieced together side-by-side from the top of the strapless bodice to the hem of the skirt. The long lines created by piecing the panels together like this become a part of the design and the entire dress has been shaped by the manipulation of the sizing and placement of the strips.
  • The bodice is strapless and the tops of the ribbons are set at different heights all around the neck line. Where they rise above the top edge they are not sewn together so you get a very distinctive ribbon feel. I love the added detail this creates.
  • It is meant to fit the bodice and then curves in at the waist. Inside there is for built-in corset that is lightly boned and holds the dress in place around you.
  • From there it curves out and over the hips, comes in slightly just below the knee, and then flares outward again for the lower skirts.
  • Just under the knee the panels open up and are no longer stitched together. This is what gives it the added volume there and creates a 'car wash' feel around you. Behind the panels are three layers of stacked black silk chiffon When you walk you get that bit of transparency between the the panels and it feel very interesting and unexpected. You get a sense of what that will be like in the runway reference photo.
  • The dress is not 100% perfect but is wearable as is. Please make sure to read the condition notes below in full before purchasing.
  • The inner nude silk corset acts as the lining behind the bodice. It is lightly boned and closes with its own side zipper. And attached waist hooks to close. Under that into the top of where the panels open on the skirt, it is lined in a black silk. Three layers of silk chiffon are attached behind the lower portion of the skirt as described above. The dress closes with a hidden set zipper placed over the inner corset zipper. I see fading on the fabric most notably around the the bodice and around the waist. Please see the photos after the label shot. It may be possible to dye the dress to a true black once again. It is wearable as is but the fading is present.  All of the fabric is sound.
  • Tagged a vintage Mugler 42
  • Excellent overall condition 

Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10.5" from top of inner edge of the bodice to inner waist
Total length: 53" from top of inner edge of the bodice to hem and the ribbons extend beyond the top edge of the bodice from 1.5-2.5".

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD5232

Reference Photos: Spring 1983 Thierry Mugler.

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SIZE GUIDE

Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.

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